116 BACKPACKER 04.2014

c l i m b i n g By the editors of Climbing magazine

Traditional tube-style devices have always been a top pick for climbers due to their scant weight, ver-satility, and long life. But other than shaving off a few grams here and there, manufacturers haven’t made any significant innovations in years. Until now. With all the functionality of a standard tube-style device, the Mega Jul pushes the category forward by adding braking power. When the rope from a falling climber pulls sharply on the device, the unique shape causes it to jam up against the belay carabiner, creating a solid lock on the rope.

After a trip to City of Rocks, Idaho, one tester was sold: “The Mega Jul did 99 percent of the work when I caught my 40-pound-heavier partner, and both rappel modes were smooth and easy to oper-ate.” More good news: The Mega Jul is made of stainless steel for maximum durability (aluminum devices can wear down over time), and the price is right. $35; 2.3 oz.; scarpa.com/edelrid

Get a versatile all-around carabiner at a great price. The Phase is not ultralight or ultralarge, but it gets the job done no matter the use. Testers lauded the smooth clipping action (even on snow and while ice climbing in subfreezing temps at Moffatt Tunnel, Colorado), the raised ribs on the spine that enhance grip, and the sizeable gate opening, which provided super-easy access even when testers were wearing mammoth gloves. “I didn’t fumble when clipping, which is usually my biggest gear annoyance in the alpine,” one tester says. The straight gate is ideal for clipping to a picket or rope when traveling on a team. Available in several styles. $6; 1.1 oz.; trango.com

Just like hikers with their gear closets full of backpacks, many climbers have a quiver of ropes for different activities: There’s the thick, burly workhorse rope (10mm or more) for everyday use, gym climbing, toproping, and working hard routes when you’ll be falling a lot. But when it comes time to top out a dif-ficult route, every ounce counts. Enter the 80-meter Opposite TRX 9/10, which is essentially two ropes in one.

Since it’s one piece, you’ll always have both options with you: Tie into one end for maximum durability, or tie into the other for less weight to drag behind as you ascend. Ideal for single-pitch climbs, it consists of 30 meters of rugged 10mm-thick rope fused with 50 meters of a lighter 9mm cord. “The versatility is unmatched,” says one tester who used it in Kentucky, Colorado, and Vermont. The uniquely braided nylon core is ultradurable, the hydrophobic treatment means it’s ideal for snow and ice, and testers noted a soft and flexible feel throughout both sections, even at the junction point. $300; 11.1 lbs.; millet.fr

“When I’m going to be in my harness for hours at a time, the Adjama is the only setup that will do,” one discriminating tester said after wearing the harness for long mountaineering routes in the Rockies and the Northeast. Credit Petzl’s EndoFrame construction that includes wider sides at the hips and doubled-up internal straps in the waistbelt. The former distribute weight more evenly across your torso’s main contact zone, while the latter provide more rigidity and thus more support. Together, they prevent the waistbelt from collapsing or creating pressure points when weighted.

The Adjama also has ample padding in the waist and leg loops that boosts comfort. All of these fea-tures mean testers didn’t have any hotspots or irritation where other harnesses normally dig into the kid-neys and inner thighs. Users also love the large singular buckle in the back, which offers a quick release of both leg loops for bathroom breaks. “Even while wearing big, bulky gloves, I could easily locate and detach the buckle,” says one. Adjustable leg loops are perfect for four-season and multi-discipline use, too: Dial in for warm-weather ascents, or expand out to fit over several layers. $75; 14.8 oz. (size M/L); petzl.com

[VERSATIlE BElAy DEVICE]Edelrid Mega Jul

[BARGAIN BINER]Trango Phase Straight Wiregate

[TWO-IN-ONE ROPE]Millet Opposite TRX 9/10

[UlTRACOMFORTABlE hARNESS]Petzl Adjama

Nothing keeps you fit for weekend climbing like midweek sessions at your local climbing gym. The bad news: Since climbing shoes are usually worn without socks, they can develop a stomach-churning stench, so penetrating and foul that no commercial or homemade rem-edy can banish it. The good news: The OxyGym solves this stinky prob-lem. The machine-washable shoe

offers excellent performance at a bargain price. (Use regular deter-gent and air dry; it won’t lose its shape, stretch out, or shrink.) It uses a unique upper construction that’s comprised of three layers: a mesh outer fabric, perforated microfiber in the middle to provide structure, and an inner, silver-embedded lining that’s breathable, wicking, and anti-microbial. “Even after a few hours

in a muggy gym, my feet weren’t sweating nearly as much as in my other shoes, and they’re so comfy, I didn’t take them off at all, even between climbs,” says one avid gym rat. Five millimeters (many other shoes have 4mm) of sticky rubber means these shoes will last season after season. And did we mention the sweet price? $99; 14.2 oz. (m’s 9); sportiva.com

rock shoes: Stay in mountain-Shape all year.

More climbing gear Get expert equipment advice on the gear channel at climbing.com.

La Sportiva OxyGym

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