CLIMB Jagged Globe

8/11/2019 CLIMB Jagged Globe

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JAGGED GLOBE/EXPEDITIONS & COURSES

NEWFOR/COLOMBIAN

MOUNTAINEER

MOUNTARARAT

THARPUCHULI

NUNTHENORTHPOLE THE LAST

DEGREE...AND MORE


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CONTENTS

CLIMB/EXPEDITIONS

06 Expeditions and Courses08 Expedition Grading09 Expedition Selector

10 Climb Expeditions10 The Seven Summits

20 The 8,000m Peaks

24 The Mountains of Asia

34 Latin America

40 The Cold Regions

44 Rest of the World

46 Climb Courses56 Grading Systems

57 The People of Jagged Globe58 Expedition and Trek Leaders

60 Guides and Instructors

62 Important Information

JAGGED GLOBE IS THEST BRITISH COMPANYTO ORGANISE ANEXPEDITION TO MAKALU,THE WORLDS TH HIGHEST

MOUNTAIN AND A

TOUGHER PROPOSITION

THAN EVEREST.

Dates of ourexpeditions andcourses can befound on pages64 to 69 of this

brochure.For prices andbooking go to

jagged-globe.co.ukTerms & conditions apply.

Hazard Warninghen something becomes predictable and

bsolutely safe, it ceases to be exciting or to be adventure. For an activity to be adventurous itust have an uncertain outcome and it will carrysks. Going into mountainous regions is implicitlyazardous, and if we add to that an adventurousctivity, then by necessity the hazards arecreased. This implies an inherent and intractablek of injury or, in the extreme, death. Anyone

onsidering taking part in a trip needs to consideris very seriously and to take responsibility foreir own participation.

ur trips are fascinating and exciting, welleyond the realms of what can be achievedy staying near to home, not simply because

the mountains we visit, but because of thetonishing parts of the world we go to. Sadly,

ome of these are impoverished. This alone is anmportant incentive to go but it means we operate

variably in regions with limited infrastructure.you are injured, problems with infrastructure

one can mean a delayed evacuation and soworse medical outcome than for a similarcident nearer to home.

e hope that joining one of our trips will s et yourulse racing and your imagination soaring. Inder to take part in a truly exciting, adventurous

ctivity with all the rewards of experiencing

verse cultures and sharing unforgettableemories with newly found friends, you have to

ccept the risks involved.

FinancialProtection

mb, Trek, Ski Ltd (trading as Jagged Globe) isfully licenced and bonded tour operator. Ther holidays and flights in this brochure are ATOLotected, since we hold an Air Travel Organiserscence granted by the Civil Aviation Authority.ur ATOL number is ATOL 10241. In the unlikelyent of our insolvency, the CAA will ensure that

ou are not stranded abroad and will arrangerefund any money you have paid to us for an

dvance booking. For further information, visite ATOL website at www.atol.org.uk

s a member of the Association of Bonded Travelrganisers Trust Limited (ABTOT) an Association

pproved by the Department of Trade anddustry, Jagged Globe has provided a Bond toeet the requirements of the Package Travel,

ackage Holidays and Package Tour Regulations92 in respect of non-flight inclusive packages

nly. This gives UK residents full protection ine unlikely event of our insolvency. For moreformation, visit www.abtot.com.

What do Jagged Globe

staff do on their days off?Operations Manager, MattParkes, on the unclimbed

(in its entirety) SE Ridge ofMakalu. British Services MakaluExpedition 2010.

Colin Scott

10241


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CLIMB/EXPEDITIONS

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YET AGAIN JAGGED GLOBE HASDEMONSTRATED THEY ARE THEBEST UK COMPANY IN THE FIELD.ATTENTION TO DETAIL WITH A HIGH

EMPHASIS ON RECOGNISING THE

IMPORTANCE OF WORKING WITH LOCAL

PEOPLE RESULTED IN AN ENJOYABLE

AND MEMORABLE EXPERIENCE.

TIM RALPH,ECUADOR VOLCANOES, FEB

REACHINGTHESUMMITIS YOUR

ULTIMATEGOALAt Jagged Globe, we are committed to providinghigh-quality, well-resourced and expertly ledmountain adventures.

Whether to the summit of Mount Everest, on a firstascent in the Indian Himalaya or on a Scottish WinterCourse, an ethos of quality underpins everythingwe do. We never marginalise the resources neededto provide you with the first-class experience wepromise when you book with us. It is the best waywe know of repaying the trust you place in us.

HOW YOU GET THEREIS EQUALLY IMPORTANT

CLIMB/TREK/SKI

CLIMB

Jagged Globe CLIMBcan take you on

expeditions to theSeven Summits, to rarelyattempted 8,000mpeaks and to hiddencorners of Nepal. Weprovide training in theUK and European Alps,providing you with theskills to go higher, climbharder and explore

further.

TREK

Jagged Globe TREKincludes some of themost famous in theworld, as well as ruggedtreks, which uncoverthe seldom-visitedvalleys and recesses of

the Greater Himalaya.As altitude experts, wetreat the mountainswith respect, honed bydecades of experience.You will find that ourversions of even thepopular treks are longer,or follow quieter routes.

SKI

Jagged Globe SKIoffers a range ofadventurous skitrips, including skimountaineeringexpeditions to exoticlocations all over theworld, ski tours in theAlps and Introductory

off-piste courses in thebest resorts. WhetherNew Zealand, Armenia,Chamonix or Tignes,you will improve yourskills and technique withJagged Globe Guidesand Instructors.

Vinson Summit.

Neal Short


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CLIMB/EXPEDITIONS

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WHAT IS ITTO JOINAN EXPEDITION?

WHAT IS ITTO JOINA COURSE?

n expedition is a complete adventure ande culmination of training; it is the timeput learning into practice. We might

hearse, and refresh, but the objectives wille the summits we climb, the paths we trek,

the slopes we ski.

s a team member, you will be with like-inded people, all seeking adventure ande camaraderie that people share whencing challenges together. You shoulde technically competent, so pleaseheck you meet the pre-trip requirementsefore booking.

Whether climbing, trekking or skiing, the

xpedition will broaden your experience andeepen your knowledge; for example, byaching new altitudes, by extending yourselfchnically and physically or by coping with

xtreme conditions. All the time, you willvel in the simple thrill of being amonge mountains and enjoying the cultures

ncountered en route. Fundamental to this,ll be the chance to make new friends alonge way.

Jagged Globe expeditions are notguided or instructed, as our coursesare, but professionally-led. An expeditioncomprises a team leader (appointed byJagged Globe), team members (you) and

local guides (recruited in-country for theirlocal knowledge). Our expeditions are wellresourced and equipped, to ensure theobjectives can be met.

The leader will set the tone and the overallparameters for the conduct of the trip. Theleader will ensure that every opportunityis taken to fulfil the objectives describedin the trips itinerary, whilst not slavishlybeing bound by it. The leader will establish a

framework of safety, and engender a positiveattitude towards ensuring a safe outcome.

As a team member, you are responsible foryour own participation, especially in thoseactivities that are hazardous by nature. Welook to you to be mindful of risks at all timesand to use your initiative, common sense andprevious experience to face up to them andto reduce them where possible.

Local guides possess the detailed localknowledge we need to achieve our goals.Local guides are not sent to Guide, as isnow understood when climbing in the Alpswith a European-Certified Guide, but to act

in the more traditional sense as pathfindersand helpers.

We like our expedition teams to operatewithin an envelope of mutual support andtrust, and the leader will work to build this asthe trip progresses. This acknowledges thateveryone on the team (the leader, yourselfand the local staff) has a contribution tomake in helping towards the safe outcomeof the venture you are participating in,

proportionate to each persons knowledgeand experience.

To get you ready for an expedition, we runcourses, where you can learn new skills. Ourcourses take place in the United Kingdomand in the Alps. They are of shorter durationthan our expeditions, typically being a

weekend or a week. Because courses arecloser to home and the mountains are moreeasily reached, they are an ideal way forpeople to enjoy an adventure with JaggedGlobe, without making a big commitment interms of time or money.

We adhere to national governing-bodyguidelines in all matters pertaining tothe activities undertaken on our courses.Courses are Guided and Instructed

accordingly, by European-Certified Guidesand Instructors (or equivalent). Somecourses have an overtly instructional bias,with set teaching sessions to learn specificskills such as navigation or recovering afallen skier from a crevasse.

Others foster learning by giving you theopportunity to stretch yourself technicallyand physically, by emulating the example ofyour Guides and Instructors.

For everyone, courses are essential as astarting point, or for ongoing development.We recommend courses in order to learnnew and advanced technical skills so thatexpeditions can be undertaken responsiblyand enjoyed for the full impact of theadventures they offer.

ordend (4,609m) frombersattel, Monte Rosa.rmatt 4,000ers course.

TomazJakofcic


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CLIMB/EXPEDITIONS

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EXPEDITION GRADINGTo help you choose a suitable expedition, we have grouped them into three bands INTRODUCTORY,INTERMED IATE and ADVANCED. Within these bands we use a two-tiered grading system, which describ esthe technical difficulty (1-5) and fitness (A-E) required. For example, Kilimanjaro Western Breach is graded1A but Aconcagua, which is a considerably more arduous undertaking, is graded 1C.

Technical Difficulty

1 Low angle snow or straightforward scramblingon rocks. Ropes are not usually required.Previous climbing experience is not essential.

2 Ropes are used principally for glacier travel

and low angle snow or ice slopes. Climbingexperience is preferred, but not usuallyessential.

3 Short, steep sections of snow or ice up to about50. Previous snow and ice climbing experienceis essential.

4 Long, steep snow and ice slopes with shortsteps of very steep ice or low grade rockclimbing. Good all-round climbing abilityrequired.

5 Very steep ice (Scottish III/IV or harder) or rock(Hard Severe or harder). Suitable for competentmountaineers who have climbed consistently atthese standards.

Fitness

A Good basic fitness, as for Munro-bagging.Average rucksack weight: 6-8kg.

B Good cardio-vascular fitness, which for mostpeople requires some training, by running,

hiking and perhaps some gym work. Averagerucksack weight: 8-12kg.

C High level of fitness coupled with physicaltoughness and the ability to carry a heavyrucksack for long periods. Average rucksackweight: 12-18kg.

D As for C, but tougher. Climbs of this grade areexceptionally strenuous and some weight loss isinevitable. Train hard and take along some sparecalories!

E Hard physical effort at extreme altitude, whichrequires thorough preparation based on yourexperience of previous trips. Comments for Dalso apply. May cause long-term fatigue after thetrip. Please note that the rucksack weights givenabove may be exceeded on some expeditions.

INTRODUCTORY INTERMEDIATE ADVANCED

Grade/Expedition Page

The Seven Summits 10

1A Kilimanjaro Western Breach 14

T1 Kilimanjaro Lemosho Glades 14

2A Elbrus 19

The Mountains of Asia 24

2A Mera Peak 26

2A Dhampus Peak 31

(Dhaulagiri Circuit)

1A Stok Kangri and Shang Valley 32

Latin America 34

2A Ecuador Volcanoes 38

2A Mexican Volcanoes 39

2A NEW Colombian Mountaineer 39

Rest of The World 44

1A NEW Mount Ararat 44



1C Aconcagua 16


3B Mera & Island Peak 26

3B Khumbu Climber 27

2B Everest Base Camp 27

and Island Peak

2B NEW Barun Valley Climber 29

2B NEW Tharpu Chuli(Tent Peak) 29

2B Lhakpa Ri & The North 30

Col of Everest (North Col 3B)

2B Altai Climber 31

2B NEW Nubra First Ascents 32

T3 NEW Rupshu and Lungser 33

Kangri Trek

Latin America 34

2B Ecuador Volcanoes 38

Extension: Antisana

3B Huascaran 36

3B Bolivian Climber 37

2B Antisana 38

The Cold Regions 40

3B Greenland Explorer 42



4E Everest 12

4A Carstensz Pyramid 17

3D Denali West Buttress 18

2C Vinson 19


5D Ama Dablam 28

2D Muztag Ata 31

4C NEW Nun 33

Latin America 34

4B Alpamayo 37

3B Alpamayo Extension: 37

Huascaran

The Cold Regions 40

2D Greenland Icecap Crossing 42

2D The South Pole - 43

The Last Degree

2D NEW The North Pole - 43

The Last Degree

The 8,000m Peaks 20

5E Makalu 22

4E Cho Oyu 23

Rest of The World 44

4B NEW Mount Kenya Summit 45

EXPEDITIONGRADING

EXPEDITIONSELECTOR

PRE-TRIP TRAINING WEEKENDSFor all of our non-European expeditions and treks,we host a pre-trip training weekend in Betws-y-Coed,Snowdonia. All team members are invited to the

weekend, which takes place several weeks beforethe trip departure and should assist you in yourpreparation. The meetings are run by members of theJagged Globe office team and instructional staff andare an opportunity to meet fellow team members.They include a thorough briefing on all aspects of theexpedition or trek and provide an ideal opportunity toclear up any final questions you may have.

The weekend covers personal equipment, health andhygiene, acclimatisation and includes a discountedshopping trip to Cotswold Outdoor. A number of trips

meet over one weekend, but activities are tailoredto your specific trek or expedition and may includesome technical instruction.

On the Saturday evening there is a slide presentationand a group dinner. Full details regarding the weekend areincluded in the Trip Dossier. The dates of the weekendsare included in your booking confirmation letter.


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The Seven Summitshe quest to climb the highest mountain on each continent is a fantastic challenge,ith each mountain giving a unique experience. Anyone can share the Seven Summitsxperience, as Kilimanjaro involves no technical difficulty and can be climbed asng as you have fitness and determination. For the remaining summits, you need toevelop your mountaineering skills and experience, as each is tough in its own way.

5. DenaliNorth America: 6,194m

First ascent: H Karstens, W Harper,R Tatum, and H Stuck, 1913Denali or The High One involves aclimb from its foot to the summitof 4,000m a greater vertical gainthan on Everest. Located just southof the Arctic Circle, temperaturesfrequently drop as low as -30celsius, with storms being a commonoccurrence. The West ButtressRoute is a non-technical climb; thechallenge is carrying/pulling 50kgloads and surviving the extremeenvironment. Denali is the toughestof the Seven Summits, after Everest.

6. VinsonAntarctica: 4,897m

First ascent: B Corbet, J Evans,B Long and P Schoening, 1966Deep within the frozen Antarctic,at 80 south, Vinson was the last ofthe Seven Summits to be discovered(1957) and climbed. Its remotenesscombined with desperately coldtemperatures, mean it shouldonly be attempted by those withprevious experience of extremelycold mountains, such as Denali.Vinson juxtaposes the stark beautyof the Antarctic wilderness, withthe brooding malevolence of thepotential storm.

7. EverestAsia: 8,850m

First ascent: Sherpa TenzingNorgay and Sir EdmundHillary, 1953Straddling the border of Tibetand Nepal, Everest endures asthe goal of many mountaineers.Climbing Everest requires a level ofmountaineering experience whichcan only be gained by attemptinga number of other mountains first.There are no short cuts, and despitethe numbers who have climbed it,we recommend that prospectiveclimbers prepare with an expeditionto another 8,000er first.

KilimanjaroAfrica: 5,895m

rst ascent: Hans Meyer andPurtscheller, 1889

he least difficult of the Sevenummits is a superb challenge for

walkers. Surrounded by the hot,y plains of the Massai Steppe andpped by snow, the mountain isown for its spectacular vegetation.gged Globe offers a choice of twoutes. The Umbwe/Western Breachsuitable for mountaineers, whilste Lemosho Glades is the quietestekking route to the summit.

2. AconcaguaSouth America: 6,959m

First ascent: MatthiasZurbriggen, 1897The highest mountain outside of theHimalayas can be climbed by the non-technical Horcones Route. The wedgeshaped Stone Sentinel lies to theeast of the main Andean chain justinside Argentinas border with Chile.A huge step up from Kilimanjaro interms of overall arduousness, serioustraining and preparation is requiredbefore taking on this giant.

3. ElbrusEurope: 5,642m

First ascent: Gardiner, H Walker,A Sottajev and P Knubel, 1874The highest point in the RussianCaucasus, between the Black andCaspian Seas, this extinct doubleheaded volcano is plastered inglaciers. The British Foreign andCommonwealth Office advice is notto visit the region, so we have notclimbed Elbrus since 1999. A finealterative is Mont Blanc (4,807m) Western Europes highest mountain.

4. Carstensz PyramidAustralasia: 4,884m

First ascent: H Harrer, P Temple,R Kippax and A Huizenga, 1962Located in the dense jungle ofWest Papua, Carstensz Pyramid isnotoriously difficult to reach due tofrequent tribal warring in the areaand its proximity to the controversialFreeport Mine. The climb itself ison rock and involves a spectacularroped crossing of a notch in thesummit ridge. Each expeditionthat we have organised has beendifferent in some way this isadventure travel at its wildest!

JAGGED GLOBE HAS HELPED MANY CLIMBERS TOACHIEVE THEIR SEVEN SUMMITS. IN , WE AREORGANISING RICHARD PARKS CHALLENGE.

RICHARD IS MAKING THE CHALLENGE EVEN

TOUGHER, BY VENTURING TO THE NORTH AND

SOUTH POLES, AS WELL AS CLIMBING ALL SEVEN

SUMMITS, ALL WITHIN SEVEN MONTHS.

Visit www.737challenge.com

to get inspired!*

VM GNIFI CENT

THE

CLIMB/THE SEVEN SUMMITS

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m Lehane pauses before making the

al steps to the top of the world.ainPeter


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EVERESTTHESOUTHCOL

ROUTE

An ascent of the worlds highest mountainvia the South Col route from Nepal.

To stand on the summit of the worlds highest

mountain is a privilege and a dream of manymountaineers. Despite the growing number ofsummiteers, Everest remains a tough proposition.

We maximise our teams summit success byproviding experienced leadership, a high level ofSherpa support, plentiful supplies of oxygen and acomfortable base camp (including a western chef).We keep our teams relatively small and personal, aswe feel that Everest is best experienced this way.In short, we organise the expedition that we would

want to be part of. Each member will contribute theirexperience to the team, having earned their right tobe there.

Our Everest record is unsurpassed by any otherBritish company and we believe we are amongstthe top companies worldwide organising Everestexpeditions. We have chosen to follow the line of thefirst ascent in 1953, the South Col Route from Nepal,as it is simply the best and most reliable means ofreaching the top.

Experience Required

To join our Everest team you must have the ability

to climb on mixed ground graded Alpine ADcompetently and be prepared to move between andlive in mountain camps unaided and unsupervised.Typically, climbers on our expeditions will haveattempted another 8,000m peak prior to Everest.

As a minimum, you must have climbed a mountainsuch as Huascaran, Denali or Muztag Ata.

Our Everest Pedigree

First expedition: Sept. 1993

Expeditions completed: 15

Successful expeditions: 14

Number of summiteers: *124

* Figure includes Jagged Globe team members,

leaders and Sherpas

Everest/The South Col Route

8,850m(29,045ft) / 72 Days / Grade 4E

N , JAGGED GLOBEBECAME THE ST UKCOMPANY TO LEAD ANEXPEDITION TO THE

UMMIT OF EVERESTOUR SUCCESS RECORD

S UNSURPASSED BY

ANY OTHER BRITISH

COMPANY

FACTIn spring 2010, Robert

Anderson led our 15th

Everest expedition (his

second for Jagged Globe).

On 17 and 23 May, Robert,

plus assistant leader, Tore

Rasmussen (2nd Everest

summit) topped out with

five of the six team members

who joined the summit

push. In spring 2011, David

Hamilton is leading the

Jagged Globe team on his

6th Everest expedition.

Training:Build up to andattempt another8,000m peak.

Visitjagged-globe.co.uk/newsfor live updatesfrom our 2011 teamduring April and May.

The Hillary Step is the technicalcrux of Everests SE Ridge.

Robert Anderson

Crossing ladders in the KhumbuIcefall is synonymous with anascent of Everest from the south.

Robert Anderson


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KILIMANJARO WESTERN BREACHAcclimatisation on Mount Meru(4,556m), prior to climbing theWestern Breach.

5,895m(19,340ft) / 13 Days / Grade 1A

This expedition combines rich wildlife and theacclimatisation benefits of Mount Meru, with an ascent

of Kilimanjaro by the most interesting route to the top.

We fly to Kilimanjaro International Airport, beforetransferring to our hotel in Moshi. Mount Meru islocated in Arusha National Park and takes threedays to climb, the final ascent being a challengingscramble on rock.

After an afternoon and evening relaxing at our hotel,we enter Kilimanjaro National Park at the village ofUmbwe. The mountains glistening southern glaciersplummet from the summit snowfields, formingan impressive backdrop as we walk up throughrainforest, tropical meadows and along a ridge toreach Baranco Camp. The most beautiful campsite onKilimanjaro provides awesome views of the WesternBreach a huge gash in the side of the volcano.

A further high camp is used at Arrow Huts fromwhere we climb The Breach, a scramble on screeand rock, which can sometimes be icy. This takes usdirectly to the crater rim and Uhuru Peak, the highestpoint in Africa.

KILIMANJARO LEMOSHO GLADESA gradual ascent profile and the mostattractive trekking route on the mountain recommended by the UIAA*.

5,895m(19,340ft) / 10 Days / Grade T1

The Lemosho Glades is the best choice of trekkingroute up Kilimanjaro, which some climbers may

consider, for example, if they are planning to travelwith less experienced friends or family.

Having flown to Kilimanjaro International Airport andspent a night in Moshi at our hotel, we drive to thewestern side of Kilimanjaro and Londorossi Gate. Fromhere, it is a gradual climb up through the jungle onto the

Shira Plateau. Our route crosses beneath the southernglaciers and descends to Baranco Camp, beforecontinuing a rising traverse of the mountain to arrive atBarafu Camp. On the seventh day of trekking, we makethe long, slow climb to the crater rim and continue allthe way to Uhuru Peak, its highest point.

Overall, this itinerary treks across the more aestheticwestern and southern aspects of Kilimanjaro and ismore interesting than either the Rongai route from thenorth, or the notoriously fast-paced Marangu route.

This itinerary is carefully designed with the aim ofgetting every team member to the summit somethingthat we achieve on the majority of our trips.


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Kilimanjaro is the least difficult of the Seven Summitsand is a superb challenge for fit trekkers and walkers.

However, the mountain is frequently underestimated and each year, many peoplefail to reach the summit, due to altitude sickness. We are successful because weunderstand how the body acclimatises. We have been organising expeditionsto Kilimanjaro since 1994 and our itineraries are designed to optimise your

acclimatisation, prior to summit day. Our Lemosho Glades ascent profile hasrecently been approved by the UIAA (International Mountaineering and ClimbingFederation).

For example, in 2010, 135 of the 140 people who attempted the mountain with us

reached the summit. This high success rate is typical. If you want to give yourselfthe best shot of climbing Kilimanjaro, or you have previously failed on a shortertrip, then read on.

PORTERS ONKILIMANJARO

Over the past threeyears we have sent 1,000

fleeces and waterproofjackets and 30 sleepingbags to Tanzania. Thesehave been distributedto porters working onKilimanjaro. We continueto see porters who arepoorly equipped, so wewill send out more gearin 2011.

KILIMANJARO FACT*The UIAA recommends ourLemosho Glades ascent profile:www.theuiaa.org/kilimanjaro.html

Kilimanjaros Southern Icefieldsviewed from the forest,following a long descentfrom the summit.

David Pickford

Training:Regular hill walking.

Scrambling coursefor those attemptingthe Western Breach.

See page 64 fortrip dates. For prices

and booking go tojagged-globe.co.uk

Terms & conditions apply.

Route Choice

We offer two options for climbingKilimanjaro and have included both

our climbing and trekking routes here.The Umbwe Route/Western Breach isthe best choice for mountaineers andinvolves scrambling on rock, to reachthe crater rim. This climb is precededby an acclimatisation ascent of nearbyMount Meru. Wildlife on Kilimanjaroitself is scarce, whereas on Mount Meruyou can expect to see giraffe, buffalo,zebra, warthogs, antelope, baboon,

Colobus monkeys and even python!

Our Lemosho Glades Trek is the bestroute for walkers, or for those withlimited time, who still want a realisticacclimatisation schedule. However, ifyou choose this route and would alsolike to see some of Africas big game,we recommend that you tag on aSafari Extension.

Trip Extensions

Safari/A three-day, three-night

extension which gives you theopportunity to take in the wonders

of Africas big game in Tanzanias

world-renowned Ngorongoro,

Lake Manyara and Tarangire game

reserves.

Return three days later than the

expedition dates.

Zanzibar/Just the place to winddown after the rigours of climbing

Kilimanjaro. This island in the

Indian ocean has lured adventurers,

plunderers and explorers to its

shores for centuries.

Return six days later than the

expedition dates.

Arriving at the crater rimat dawn with Mawenzi Peakin silhouette.

David Pickford

Tom Briggs


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ACONCAGUA

CARSTENSZPYRAMID

Australasias highest mountain themost mysterious of the Seven Summits.

4,884m(16,023ft) / 22 Days / Grade 4ARising from the dense tropical jungle of West Papuain Indonesia, Carstensz Pyramid is the most elusive ofthe Seven Summits. Its remoteness, combined with

government restrictions, political instability in theregion and frequent tribal warring, has meant thatfew people have climbed it since the first ascent in1962. It is undoubtedly the most adventurous, excitingand uncertain trip that we do.

Since 1994 we have organised ten expeditions toCarstensz Pyramid, with each one being differentin some way. Access to the mountain is by either arigorous jungle trek (lately from Sugapa village), viathe controversial Freeport Mine, or by helicopter (when

they are available). The latter option is our preferredmethod, though it is also the most expensive.

The climb itself follows a direct route up slabs andcorners on the north face of the mountain to reachthe summit ridge. This lower section of the climbinvolves scrambling and rock climbing up to gradesevere (USA 5.4). On the ridge, three notchesmust be negotiated, the first of which necessitatesabseiling/rappelling into the notch and jumaringa fixed rope out the other side. Team memberstherefore need to have ropework skills and rockclimbing experience.

If you are considering Carstensz Pyramid, pleaserecognise that the expedition is wrought withdifficulty, the potential for political upheaval andfor last minute itinerary changes. It is essential thatyou approach this challenge with a high degree offlexibility, as it is normal for dates and itinerariesto change. However, for those looking for a realadventurers trip, undeterred by the bureaucracy anduncertainty of Indonesian politics, Carstensz defines

organised adventure travel at its most audacious.

Training:Introductory Winter

Mountaineering inScotland, a previous6,000m+ mountain.


and booking go tojagged-globe.co.uk

Terms & conditions apply.

Training:Rock climbing andscrambling. Jungletrekking. Alpineclimbing to AD-.

The worlds highest trekking peak and thesecond highest of the Seven Summits.

6,959m(22,830ft) / 22 Days / Grade 1C

Of the Seven Summits, Aconcagua is the secondhighest and one of the most technically straightforwardto climb. It is regarded as the highest trekking peakin the world and can be climbed by those withoutroped climbing experience. However, even the normalHorcones route is a very arduous ascent due to thescale of the mountain, its considerable altitude andthe unpredictable weather.

Our itinerary includes an ascent of Bonete Peak(5,004m), whilst maintaining three days for the

summit bid on Aconcagua itself.

Summit day typically takes 10 hours from Berlin Huts(5,800m), with the Canaleta, a large gully leading tothe summit ridge, being the most challenging part ofthe climb. The views from the top are breathtakingand make all the hard work worthwhile.

Aconcagua is a massive step up from Kilimanjaro,so if you are serious about getting to the top, werecommend that you join another Jagged Globeexpedition prior to attempting it. All of our expeditionsare supported by English-speaking Argentinianmountain guides, with high-altitude porters employedto carry group equipment. Team members carrytheir own personal gear between camps. We sendexperienced Jagged Globe leaders on all expeditions,as despite its lack of technical difficulty, Aconcaguais a serious undertaking and the judgment of an

experienced high-altitude leader is essential.

Weaving through penitentes

(pinnacles of snow) on anacclimatisation ascent ofBonete Peak (5,004m).

DuncanKing

Janet Pickett on track to

complete the Seven Summits.North Face of Carstensz Pyramid.

Neal Short


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DENALIWESTBUTTRESS

VINSON

The last of the Seven Summits to be discovered andclimbed, Vinson rises from the most hostile, yet pristinecontinent on Earth. This long snow climb, though

technically moderate, should not be underestimated.The combination of isolation and potentially

extreme conditions, mean you need considerablemountaineering experience to take part. To join ourteams, we require that you have previous expeditionexperience on a cold mountain such as Denali, are ableto perform self-rescue from a crevasse, as well as havethe physical robustness to carry a 25kg pack and pull a25kg sled at the same time.

Our teams assemble in Punta Arenas in Chile andthen fly to Union Glacier on the Antarctic continent.A smaller aircraft flies us to Base Camp. From here,two camps are used, the high camp being locatedabove the 40 headwall on a broad col betweenVinson and Mount Shinn. The route to the summitup a steep ridge is a fitting climax to an amazingwilderness experience. When the weather is good, theviews are stunning. However, conditions can changevery quickly and the temperatures can plummet to-30C. If the ascent is completed quickly, we can also

climb nearby Mount Shinn. If you would like to ski thelast degree to the South Pole, this can be combinedwith the Vinson climb see page 43 for details.

The highest mountain of our planetslast great wilderness, Antarctica.

4,897m(16,067ft) / 19-22 Days / Grade 2C

ELBRUS5,642m(18,510ft) / Grade 2A

Elbrus is the highest mountain in Europe, locatedin the Caucasus Mountains of Russia. JaggedGlobe climbed Elbrus every summer between

1992 and 1999, when the UK Foreign andCommonwealth Office advised against travel tothe Elbrus region. This advice remains in placeand as recently as February 2011 the threat ofterrorism has been very real.

We hope to return to this beautiful area one day.

Training:Scottish WinterMountaineering

and altitudes up to6,000m. Hiking with

a 25kg pack.

Training:Denali

Note:Flights from PuntaArenas to UnionGlacier are oftendelayed, in bothdirections, byweather conditions,which are critical fora safe landing on theice runway. Each tripis guaranteed to go

ahead on the datesgiven, weatherpermitting.

An ascent of North Americas highest mountain,via the West Buttress Route.

6,194m(20,320ft) / 26 Days / Grade 3D

The highest mountain in North America rises above Alaskas tundra, closeto the Arctic Circle. Despite the relatively low technical demands of theWest Buttress Route, Denali is a big, serious mountain and should not beunderestimated. Of the Seven Summits, it is second only to Everest in termsof overall difficulty. Success depends on your ability to carry a heavy loadand to put up with harsh conditions.

From the outpost town of Talkeetna, a spectacular one-hour flight takes us toBase Camp on the Kahiltna Glacier at 2,100m. The surrounding mountains areof Himalayan stature, as are the glaciers that we follow to Camp 1. Three othercamps are placed, the highest at 5,245m, from where we make the summitattempt. The steepest section of the climb is en route to the top camp and isfixed with 300m of rope.

In keeping with Denali National Park regulations, our expeditions are operatedthrough an authorised Alaskan guiding operator. Places are available for thosewith previous expedition experience, who have climbed routes of ScottishGrade II or equivalent and can carry a 25kg pack and pull a 25kg sled at the

same time. The climbing season is from late April to early July. Temperaturesare lower earlier in the season, but there is more snow cover on the lowerglaciers, making them less hazardous. Later in the season it is warmer, butcrevasses are a bigger problem. Storms are common throughout the season.

View from high camp ofclimbers on the ridge aboveWashburns Thumb.

Tom Briggs

Tom Briggs

Richard Parks on Vinsonssummit ridge, during

his 737 Challenge.737 Challenge


11/37

CLIMB/THE ,M PEAKS

/

Expeditionsto the worldshighest mountainsJagged Globe 8,000m peak expeditions are amongthe best in the world: resourced and supported for

reaching the summit.

Personally, we have been climbing 8,000m peaks forover 20 years, before the inception of professionally-led and guided expeditions to the Giants of theHimalaya. We used what we learnt on thosemountains to launch the very first of our 8,000mpeak expeditions and, as a professional organiser,by the mid 1990s we had climbed Broad Peak,

Gasherbrum II, Cho Oyu, Shishapangma as well asEverest from both sides (north and south).

We were the firstBritish operator to climbEverest, and in 2009, continuing in the samevein, our team became the firstBritish-organised team to climb the North East Faceof Manaslu, placing the firstBritish Woman,the firstAmerican Woman and the firstNewZealander on one of its summits. In spring2011, we are organising an expedition to theNorth side of Makalu, the worlds 5th highestmountain. Again, this is a firstfor a Britishcompany. You can follow our teams progressvia our websitejagged-globe.co.uk.

Our huge experience of 8,000m climbing has enabledus to evolve the support and resources we bring

to bear. Over two decades, we have refined ourknowledge of how best to get each team memberto the top of each mountain. Climbing at suchenormous altitudes is not safe, and the risks involvedare significant. We know the level of personalcommitment it takes to climb: physically, mentallyand emotionally. You wont find any corners cut,nor compromises contemplated, and no expeditionresourced better than ours.

We will supply you with everything you need toat least match your expectations and aspirations,

optimised for success, and reflecting the commitmentyou have made to the 8,000m mountain you havechosen to climb.

OUR ,M PEAK LEADERS ARESOME OF THE FINEST AND MOSTEXPERIENCED IN THE WORLD.SEE PAGE FOR A SELECTION OF

OUR EXCEPTIONAL LEADERS.

m Ralph on the summit oferest, 23 May 2010. Details

our Everest expedition are page 12.

RobertAnderson


12/37

CLIMB/THE ,M PEAKS

MAKALU CHO OYUWHILE STANDING ON TOP OF EVEREST, ILOOKED ACROSS THE VALLEY, TOWARDSTHE OTHER GREAT PEAK, MAKALU, ANDMENTALLY WORKED OUT A ROUTE ABOUTHOW IT COULD BE CLIMBEDIT SHOWED ME THAT, EVEN THOUGH

I WAS STANDING ON TOP OF THE WORLD,

IT WASNT THE END OF EVERYTHING

FOR ME, BY ANY MEANS. I WAS STILL

LOOKING BEYOND TO OTHER

INTERESTING CHALLENGES.

SIR EDMUND HILLARY

8,463m (27,765ft) / 60 Days / Grade 5E

During the 2011 spring season, we have a team ofclimbers making a rare attempt on Makalu, via thenorth face and North West Ridge.

This was the route envisaged by Hillary as he

descended from Everest. It was climbed two yearslater, in spring 1955, by French alpinists, LionelTerray and Jean Couzy.

Makalu has still had less than 300 ascents byindividual climbers and fewer than 10 British ascents- its a much tougher proposition than Everest.

8,201m (26,906ft) / 44 Days / Grade 4E

This expedition is an excellent

opportunity for climbers to extendtheir experience to extreme altitudesand is highly recommended as afirst 8,000m peak, or as a stepping-stone to an attempt on Everest. Thecomparative ease of access, lackof objective dangers and generally

uncomplicated terrain makes Cho Oyuthe most attainable of the worldshighest mountains.

Of the fifteen expeditions that we haveorganised, twelve have put climberson the summit, making Jagged Globeby far the most experienced andsuccessful British operation on ChoOyu. Like all 8,000m peaks, the climbis a serious undertaking and demands

fitness, mountaineering skill and self-sufficiency from those considering it.We provide experienced leadership,a comfortable base camp, a strong

Sherpa team and ample supplies above

Advance Base Camp. It is typical forclimbers to use oxygen on summit day,so we include two bottles, plus aTopOut mask.

We travel overland from Kathmandu toTibet via the Friendship Highway. Our

journey takes us across the TibetanPlateau, where we stop en route toacclimatise, before reaching ChineseBase Camp. From here, we load upYaks and trek to Cho Oyu Base Camp,below the north west face. The routeabove Base Camp consists mainly oflow-angled snow slopes up to 30 withone short but very steep section tobypass a srac barrier at 6,400m. Weuse three camps on the mountain, the

highest at 7,500m is the launch pad forthe summit, which is reached in 5 to 8hours under normal conditions.

The sixth highest mountain in the world andthe most frequently climbed 8,000er.

/

Visit jagged-globe.co.uk to follow the

progress of our 2011Makalu Team.

Matt Parkes and the British

Services Makalu team embarkon another gruelling day loadcarrying between camps 1 and 2on the SE Ridge.

ColinScott

Arriving at Camp 2 on Cho Oyu.Chris Groves

Chris Groves


13/37

CLIMB/THE MOUNTAINS OF ASIA

/

These mountain ranges are hugely diverse, mainly dueto the climate, which is profoundly affected by thepeaks themselves. The great barrier of the Himalaya

prevents the summer monsoon from crossing it, soNepal to the south is lush and forested, while Tibet tothe north is a high-altitude desert. Trips to the Himalayausually take place either side of the monsoon, in thespring or autumn. The Karakoram and Chinese Pamirsare barely reached by the monsoon, and they are colder,so the summer months are the best time to go there.

Our expeditions range from tried and tested objectivesto exploratory and rarely attempted climbs in remoteareas. The easier climbs or Trekking Peaks such as Stok

Kangri, Mera Peak and Lhakpa Ri are best described astreks culminating in the ascent of a non-technical peak.

At the other end of the scale, we have some majorundertakings, which are only available to accomplishedclimbers, such as Muztag Ata, Ama Dablam and Nun.

ontaining the great peaks of the Himalaya,arakoram, Tien Shan and the Pamir, Asiaan boast the most impressive mountainanges in the world.

The majesty of the Himalayas.At dawn deep shadows are

cast across the Khumbu asclimbers make their way alongIsland Peaks summit ridge.

Lieven DeVlaminck

FACTIn spring 2011 we sent200 fleeces to Nepal to

be donated to portersworking in the trekkingindustry. These will bedistributed through ouragent, Kit SpencersPorter Fund.


14/37


An ascent of Nepals highest trekkingeak in a compact three-week adventure.

,476m(21,246ft) / 24 Days / Grade 2A

era is a popular introduction to Himalayanountaineering with fit trekkers joining us every year

n the straightforward snow climb to the summit. It ise highest peak in Nepal that only requires a basicvel of mountaineering skill and experience. Ourtroductory Long Weekend in Scotland is therefore aopular training course for Mera.

he mountain lies in a beautiful, uninhabitedgion and boasts a summit that gives superbews of Everest, Makalu, Lhotse, Cho Oyu and

angchenjunga. Our approach to Mera is longer thanat provided by most expedition organisers in order

o increase the acclimatisation period. This greatlymproves everyones chances of reaching the summitnd makes its attainment less demanding, so that thebulous views on the way to the top can be enjoyed

o the full.

fter flying to Lukla, we head south before crossingridge to reach the Hinku Valley. Following this

orth, we ascend steadily to the Mera La at 5,415m.rom our top camp on the glacier above the Meraa, a steady, low-angled snow climb leads to a finalhort but steep section which guards the summitnd provides a fitting climax to the climb. Aftere climb, we cross the Zatrawa La and descend to

ukla, returning to Kathmandu only a few days afteraching our Himalayan summit.

Mera Peak and Island Peak are Nepalsmost sought-after trekking peaks.Being located in separate valleysystems, their combination providesa very challenging expedition and acomparable alternative to our equallyambitious Khumbu Climber.

After climbing Mera, we descend into theremote Hongu Valley and follow it to thehigh pass of the Amphu Labtsa. This isa wild, mountainous area overlooked byimpressive peaks, including Chamlang,Ama Dablam and Baruntse. The routeacross the Amphu Labtsa weavesthrough steep glacial terrain and involvesan exciting roped descent, to arrive atIsland Peak Base Camp.

By now, we should be extremely wellacclimatised and should find the ascentof Island Peak good fun and not toodemanding. The climb along its narrowand exposed summit ridge, with LhotseShar looming behind, provides anappropriate climax to one of our mosthighly regarded expeditions.

Places on Mera and Island Peak areavailable to mountaineers with alpineexperience of routes graded PD/AD, or Scottish Grade II. Our WinterMountaineering course in Scotland, orany of our 4,000ers courses in the Alpswould provide suitable preparation.

MERAPEAK

KHUMBUCLIMBER

MERA & ISLAND PEAKA remote trek with ascents of two of Nepalsbest-known peaks.

6,476m(21,246ft) & 6,189m (20,305ft) / 30 Days / Grade 3B

The original action-packed climbingadventure in the shadow of Everest.

Khumbu Climber is a fast-moving and ambitiousexpedition, taking us into the heart of the KhumbuRegion with our sights set on three peaks up to6,189m high. The itinerary and our small group sizesenable us to do a lot of climbing amongst some ofthe worlds highest mountains. Our objectives arePokalde (5,806m), Island Peak (6,189m) and Lobuje

East (6,119m). We climb all of them by their standardroutes, which equate to Scottish II/Alpine grade PD.Therefore participants need to have completed climbsof a similar standard, with our Winter Mountaineeringcourse in Scotland and our 4,000ers courses in theAlps being ideal preparation.

After our flight into Lukla, we trek up the KhumbuValley towards Everest and establish a Base Camp

in an idyllic cirque to the south of Pokalde. Pokaldeis the easiest of our objectives, with the route to the

summit involving a rocky scramble. Then we moveup the Imja Valley to the base of Island Peak, beforethe short walk to the high camp at 5,600m. The climbinvolves Grade 1 scrambling on rock, a steep snow faceand an airy finale along a knife-edge ridge. After a restin the Sherpa village of Dingboche, we approach ourfinal objective, Lobuje East. From our high camp weclimb rock to reach a long snow ridge, which steepenstowards the summit and provides superb views ofEverest. Our adventure continues with the crossingof the Cho La, a high, glaciated pass, which leads

to Gokyo Lakes and Gokyo Ri. We then descend tore-join the Khumbu Valley and trek back to Lukla viaNamche Bazaar.

EVEREST BASE CAMPAND ISLAND PEAKCombine the classic trek to EverestBase Camp with an ascent of a 6,000mHimalayan peak.

For those who prefer a more moderate introduction

to Himalayan climbing than our Mera and Island Peakor Khumbu Climber expeditions, this itinerary involvesa steady trek to Everest Base Camp at c5,600m, priorto crossing the Kongma La (5,535m) and an attempton Island Peak (6,189m). Island Peak is steeper thanMera Peak, but is a realistic objective for those withsome previous winter climbing experience.

As with our tried and tested Everest Base CampTrek, we ensure our gradual acclimatisation by takingeleven days to trek from Lukla to Everest Base Camp.In the spring season, you might meet our Everest

climbing team in base camp. On arrival at the base ofIsland Peak, we refresh our rope skills before climbingthe normal route to the summit from a high camp.The feeling of climbing on summit day, as the sunrises over nearby Ama Dablam and the shadow ofIsland Peak falls across the gigantic face of LhotseShar, is beyond superlatives.

6,189m(20,305ft) / 24 Days / Grade 2B

6,189m(20,305ft) / 28 Days / Grade 3B

/

On the summit ridgeof Island Peak.

AlexandreBuisse

Chris Groves

RobJarvis


and booking go tojagged-globe.co.ukTerms & conditions apply.


15/37


/

For detailsof the Silver Hut

Expedition - 50th

Anniversary Trek

See the JaggedGlobe Trek

brochure or visit

jagged-globe.co.uk

THARPU CHULITENT PEAKA spectacularly positioned mountain atthe head of the Annapurna Valley.

5,663m(18,579ft) / 20 Days / Grade 2B

Sometimes called Tent Peak Tharpu Chuli is locatedabove the Annapurna Valley and is famous for itsincredible views of Machhupuchare (the Fish TailPeak), which is directly opposite. The mountain is veryaccessible and can be climbed in a three week roundtrip from the UK. The standard route is the NorthWest Ridge, which provides snow and ice difficultiesat Scottish Grade II/Alpine PD. If you are looking for ashort Himalayan hit, in the shadow of the Annapurnas,this is a superb trip.

From Kathmandu, we take a more reliable afternoonflight to Pokhara and begin our trek the next day intothe Annapurna Sanctuary.

Rather than trekking into the Sanctuary via New Bridgeand Sinuwa, we choose a more circuitous route, whichprovides a better ascent profile and acclimatisation.From Poon Hill, there are awesome views of theAnnapurna Valley and of Dhaulagiri. Once at AnnapurnaBase Camp, we spend time acclimatising further beforefollowing the glacial moraine to Tharpu Chuli BaseCamp. A high camp is used at c5,000m to access theglacier, where the route crosses a 45 degree snowslope to attain the North West Ridge. The ridge, whichis broad at first, becomes knife edged for the final 50mto the summit. The views from the top are some of thefinest in the Himalaya.

BARUN VALLEYCLIMBERClimb two remote 6,000m peaks, oppositethe imposing west face of Makalu.

6,270m(20,570ft) / 30 Days / Grade 2B

This expedition visits the Upper Barun Valley, a remotearea very near Makalu. We aim to climb two 6,000mpeaks, Pethangtse II and an unnamed peak, whichserves as excellent acclimatisation. If you have visitedNepal before and are interested in returning to explorea quiet valley, which sees very few mountaineers, thenyou might consider Barun Valley Climber. To join thisexpedition, you need to be prepared for the rigoursof trekking where there are no defined trails and havesnow and ice climbing experience to Scottish Grade IIor Alpine PD.

The expedition begins with a flight from Kathmanduto Tumlingtar, from where we drive to Chicila and beginour trek. The trek through the Makalu-Barun NationalPark takes us through an area of outstanding naturalbeauty, populated by a wide cross-section of Nepalipeoples with a diverse cultural background. After 10days we reach Japanese Base Camp below Makalu.From here, we establish an Advance Base Camp, fromwhere we launch our summit attempts.

The route up Pethangtse II is on easy-angled snowslopes to reach a col at the base of a 45-50 degreesnow and ice ridge. This leads for a further 200 verticalmetres to a small summit. The views from here areimmense. The unclimbed west face of Makalu, one ofthe last great challenges of the Himalayas is visible tothe south east, whilst Everest, Lhotse and the southface of Baruntse can be seen to the west.

The view west from the summitof an unnamed 6,000m peak

opposite Makalu. This is ouracclimatisation climb beforetackling Pethangtse II.

Matt Parkes

NEW NEW

AMA DABLAM AMA DABLAMAn ascent of the famous Matterhorn ofthe Himalaya.

6,856m(22,494ft) / 30 Days / Grade 5D

The stunning sentinel of Ama Dablam is one of themost beautiful and photographed mountains in theHimalaya. The regular route up the South-West Ridge isa tough and sustained climb. Despite this, it is a popularobjective and during the main autumn climbing season,it can be very busy. We climb during the early winter,when there are fewer teams on the mountain and lesscrowding. This period is also characterised by cold,

clear weather and good conditions.

The route from Base Camp up the South-West Ridgeinvolves steep snow, ice and rock climbing in veryexposed situations. We use an Advance Base Campat 5,400m to break the 1,250m altitude gain betweenBase Camp and Camp 1. Ropes are fixed for the entireroute and a further three camps are used along the

ridge, including the spectacularly positioned Camp 2.On the whole, the rock is of excellent quality, thoughon the section above Camp 2 the Grey Tower it is

loose and there is both stone fall and ice fall potential.Our final camp is positioned between 6,200m 6,300m, just off the ridge, out of the fall line of theDablam (the hanging serac).

A particular feature of this climb is moving efficientlyon steep rock in big boots and crampons. You shouldtherefore have climbed Alpine routes of AD, ScottishGrade III and be able to second VS/5.7 on rock.

961/2011

THE FIRST ASCENT ALONGTHE SOUTH WEST RIDGE WASCOMPLETED IN MARCH .ORIGINAL EXPEDITION MEMBERJIM MILLEDGE RETURNS FORTHE TH ANNIVERSARY TREK.SEE THE JAGGED GLOBE TREKBROCHURE FOR INFORMATION

Out there! Camp 2 on Ama Dablams SW Ridge is oneof the most spectacular campsites in the Himalayas.

Adam Hooper

Griff Pugh, Edmund Hillary andJim Milledge at Ama DablamBase Camp.

Jim Milledge

The Silver Hut laboratory,located at 5,800m.

Jim Milledge

The first ascent team on the summit.

Silver HutExpedition


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/

ALTAI CLIMBERVisit a remote part of Mongolia and climb

the countrys highest mountain Mount Khuiten.

4,375m(14,350ft) / 16 Days / Grade 2B

Many think of Mongolia as a land of endless rolling

grasslands, yet in the far western corner of thislandlocked country, dramatic glaciated peaks riseout of the steppe and form natural borders withneighbouring China and Russia.

The Altai Tavan Bogd Mountains (Five Saints) arethe highest peaks in the Mongol Altai Range, whichstretches some 2,000km from the Gobi Desert tothe Greater Himalaya in Pakistan. The Five Saintsinclude Mount Khuiten (4,375m), Mongolias highest

peak, Mount Nairandal (4,180m), which marks theintersection of the borders of Russia, China andMongolia, and Mount Snow Church (4,100m), arguablythe most beautiful mountain in north east Asia. Lushalpine pastures make ideal grazing lands during thesummer months and local herders bring their herds ofyaks, sheep and horses to the base of the mountains.

We fly to Mongolias capital, Ulan Baatar, and

have a one day hike in nearby Terelj National Park.An internal flight and drive then takes us to ourcomfortable Base Camp beside the Potaniin Glacier,below the Five Saints. After acclimatising on ridgesby the border with Russia and refreshing our glacierskills, we trek up the Potaniin Glacier to climb MountNairandal and Mount Khuiten. If the weather is kindand we have time, we can climb Malchin (4,037m)from Base Camp, or to trek up the Alexander Glaciertowards Snow Church. One of the highlights of the

trip is meeting an Eagle Hunter on our return fromthe mountains.

The Altai Climber expedition is suitable for thosewith previous mountaineering experience of ScottishGrade II/Alpine PD.

LHAKPA RI& THE NORTH COLOF EVEREST

7,045m(23,107ft) / 29 Days / Grade 2B (North Col 3B)

Lhakpa Ri (7,045m) is located in Tibet,just across the glacier from AdvanceBase Camp on the North side of Everest.The climb itself is on low-angled snow

and is a superb objective for thosewith basic crampon and ice axe skills,coupled with previous high altitudeexperience, who wish to climb a 7,000er.In the spring, we offer a climb to theNorth Col of Everest as an additionalprize for those who have technicalmountaineering experience of Scottish

Grade II/Alpine PD. This option isavailable (at extra cost), as ropes are in

place on the mountain for teams tryingfor the summit during this period.

The expedition travels overland fromKathmandu into Tibet and across theTibetan Plateau to Everest Base Camp.Once the team is sufficiently acclimatised,

we make the trek up the East RongbukGlacier, following the Magic Highway, toAdvance Base Camp (6,400m).

Although Lhakpa Ri is probably theeasiest 7,000m peak in the world, it ismore than a trek, with the final sectionfollowing a spectacular, exposed summit

ridge. For those who have opted toclimb to the North Col, you have a rest

day before tackling the fixed ropes,crevasses and ladders, en route to

Camp 1 on Everest. The North Col wasdiscovered by Mallory and his teamin 1922 and is the key to the ascent ofEverest from the North. The views up

the North Ridge, with climbers slowlymaking their way to the higher camps,are awe-inspiring.

After the climbs, we return to Base Campand drive via the Friendship Highway toKathmandu. For those who wish to visitthe Forbidden City of Lhasa, we can

organise this as an optional extension,including a flight back to Kathmandu.

DHAMPUS PEAKDHAULAGIRI CIRCUITClimb Dhampus Peak as part of ourDhaulagiri Circuit trek.

6,060m/19,882ft / 22 Days / Grade 2A

Dhampus Peak is an optional ascent for those whojoin our tough, Dhaulagiri Circuit trek. The mountainis climbed from an exposed campsite in the HiddenValley, which is reached by crossing the French Colbelow Dhaulagiri. The climb is likely to be a mixture

of frozen snow fields and patches of slatey scree. Its1,000m of ascent from high camp to the summit, soyou can expect this to be a very tough day physically.

Axes, crampons, harnesses and ropes need to becarried, but may not be used depending on theconditions. Cold is likely to be a bigger issue, and it isessential that everyone is prepared for potentially verylow temperatures, and a high wind-chill factor. Thesummit is a fine rocky peak with extensive views of theAnnapurnas to the south east, the Dhaulagiris to the

south west, and Mustang to the north.

MUZTAG ATA

A popular 7,000m peak in the ChinesePamir and excellent preparation foran 8,000er.

7,546m(24,757ft) / 30 Days / Grade 2D

The huge dome of Muztag Ata offers a chance to climban exceptionally high mountain by a technically easy,

but physically demanding route. Overlooking Chinasvast Takla Makan Desert, it is a popular objectivewith teams from continental Europe and is an idealstepping stone on the way to attempting an 8,000mpeak. Jagged Globe has been successful with membersreaching the top on seven of our previous expeditions.

The climb is long and tiring but technically easy andthe backdrop, across the Pamir, Kun Lun and theKarakoram, is stunning. On the climb itself, we use

three camps and some load carrying is required,though we provide Pakistani High Altitude Porters toassist with this. We recommend that applicants haveprevious experience on peaks higher than 6,000m andtrain hard beforehand. Team members wishing to jointhe expedition using skis can also be accommodated.

We plan to approach the mountain from Kyrgyzstan,flying into Bishkek and crossing the Torgugart Pass tothe ancient city of Kashgar. We have used this approachmost recently as it is shorter and avoids using the

Karakoram Highway from Pakistan, parts of which theBritish FCO currently advise against travelling.

Everest Base Camp on the

Tibetan side. Advance BaseCamp is a further 3 days walk,from where we climb Lhakpa Ri.

Jeremy Anson

Summit of Dhampus Peak (6,060m).

Mungo Ross

See pages 65-66 fortrip dates. For prices



17/37

/

STOK KANGRI AND SHANG VALLEYA 6,000m summit and excellent introduction to mountaineeringin the Himalaya, in a two-week trip to Ladakh.

6,121m(20,082ft) / 17 Days / Grade 1A

Stok Kangri is clearly visible from Leh,the capital of Ladakh in Northern India.We have been organising expeditionsto this fine trekking peak since 1988.Recently we refined our itinerary sothat the trip can now be completed in alittle over two weeks.

We fly from Delhi to Leh and spendtwo days here acclimatising andvisiting hill top monasteries, before

trekking through the quiet ShangValley. Here , we cross many spursand minor passes, with occasionalviews northwards towards the IndusValley, until we reach a high point atthe 4,960m Shang La. From here wecontinue to Stok Kangri base camp.

The ascent from base camp crosses aglacier and scree to the sharp SouthRidge, which leads, in a superblyexposed position, to the narrowsummit. On a clear day you can see asfar as the mighty Karakoram and K2,220km to the north west.

To join the expedition, you needto be familiar with the use of iceaxe and crampons on low-angled

terrain and be confident on BritishGrade I scrambles, such asSnowdons Crib Goch.

NUN

NUBRAFIRST

ASCENTS

RUPSHUAND LUNGSERKANGRI TREK

6,662m(21,856ft) / 20 Days / Grade T3

At 6,662m, Lungser Kangri in the Rupshu region

of Ladakh is about as high as you can get withoutmountaineering experience.

Details of this 20-day summer trip are containedin the Jagged Globe TREK Brochure and on ourwebsite jagged-globe.co.uk

NUNThe highest peak in the Zanskar Himalaya- an attractive and accessible 7,000er

7,135m(23,409ft) / 28 Days / Grade 4C

The twin peaks of Nun (7,135m) and Kun (7,077m)dominate the Suru Valley and are the highest peaksin the Zanskar Himalaya, Northern India. Due to quickaccess from Leh and the ease with which a climbingpermit can now be obtained, we are organising anexpedition to the more challenging and interestingof the two summits, Nun.

The first ascent of this peak was made via the WestRidge by a French Swiss team led by Bernard Pierreand Pierre Vittoz, in 1953 and this is the route that weaim to climb. This will be a challenging climb, utilisingthree camps above base camp. With difficulties onmixed snow and ice up to 70 degrees, team membersneed to have experience on Alpine routes of AD andhave been to at least 6,000m before.

CLIMB/MOUNTAINS OF ASIA

NUBRAFIRST ASCENTS

We organised our first expeditions to this quiet areaetween Leh and the Nubra Valley in 2007, returning

gain the following two summers. Our teams climbednd named Yangchan Kangri (5,710m), Mani Kangri5,742m) and Unnamed Peak (5,700m). They alsoimbed the rarely attempted Sahib Chasa (6,078m).

2010, Jagged Globe expedition leader, Mungooss, visited another valley nearby and photographed

0 separate peaks over 6,000m, all of whichre unclimbed and most of which looked to betraightforward. We are organising two exploratory-yle expeditions to this valley in July and August

011, with the aim of making first ascents. We plano visit again in summer 2012. If you have previousountaineering experience to 6,000m and haveimbed routes at Scottish Grade II/Alpine PD, youould consider joining one of these teams.

NEW NEWNEW

Nun has replacedBaruntse in our

programme, as

we feel that snowconditions on

Baruntse are rarelystable enough to

offer a good chanceof success, within areasonable margin

of safety.

For reports on how

our summer 2011teams faired, visit

jagged-globe co.uk

,078m(19,935ft) / 23 Days / Grade 2B

The West Ridge of Nun is theright-hand skyline. We aim toattempt this in late summer 2011.

Jagged Globe

Unclimbed peaks in a secretvalley near the Lasermola La.

Mungo Ross


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CLIMB/LATIN AMERICA

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The Andes stretch the full length ofSouth America, from Venezuela toPatagonia. They contain the highestmountains outside Asia and encompassan even greater variety of landscapesand mountain types.

Active volcanoes, ice fluted pyramidsand immense rock monoliths are justa few examples of what this incrediblecontinent has to offer. The mountainscan be anything from Alpine toHimalayan in scale and their accessibilitymakes South America an excellentdestination for a short trip.

LATINAMERICA

pectacular glaciatedchitecture on Antisana. This

uadorian volcano is moremote and sees fewer ascentsan nearby Cotopaxi.

Mark Horrell


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CLIMB/LATIN AMERICA

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6,769m(22,208ft) / 26 Days / Grade 3B

The Peruvian Andes are considered by manymountaineers to be the most beautiful and impressivemountains in the world. The ascent of Huascaranfollows an acclimatisation trek through the Santa CruzValley and a climb of Pisco (5,752m), an attractivesnow peak with interesting climbing and excellentviews of Huascaran itself. Alternatively, the climb canbe made as an extension to Alpamayo.

Huascaran is Perus highest mountain; its twosummits are separated by an enormous col, the

Garganta, which is gained by climbing along theedge of a tumbling icefall. This can give severalshort steep pitches, although the difficulties canchange overnight. From the top camp just below theGarganta, the route to the south summit follows snowand ice slopes, steeply at first, to the highest point inthe tropics. Access to the south summit is sometimesbarred by a large crevasse, in which case we thenclimb the lower north summit (6,664m).

The Huascaran expedition utilises multiple camps andis excellent preparation for climbers who might beconsidering bigger peaks in the future. Mountaineerswho have experience of Alpine PD+ routes, or thosewho have previously climbed trekking peaks in Nepal,might choose Huascaran as their introduction to afull-blown expedition.

ALPAMAYOAn alpine-style ascent of theworlds most beautiful mountain.

5,947m(19,511ft) / 23 Days / Grade 4B

Alpamayo is a steep, perfectly formed ice pyramid situated inthe heart of Perus Cordillera Blanca. Its impressive shape andspectacularly fluted ice face ensure that it remains a coveted summitfor aspiring alpine climbers. This expedition climbs the south-westface by either the Ferrari Route, or the French Direct, on mostly45 snow and ice. Team members must therefore be comfortableclimbing Alpine AD or Scottish III/IV.

After arriving in Huaraz, at the foot of the Cordillera Blanca, wetravel to the Ishinca Valley to acclimatize on some superb peaks,

such as Urus Este (5,420m) and Ishinca (5,530m). The traverse ofIshinca is a great outing at Alpine AD-. We then trek into AlpamayoBase Camp along the famous Santa Cruz Valley and have fivedays to climb the mountain from a high camp on the col betweenAlpamayo and Quitaraju. This col is reached via 1,000m of moraineabove Base Camp and sections of Grade II Scottish Ice.

Since 2007, the classic Ferrari Route has been threatened by a hugeserac at the top of the south-west face. Our teams therefore choseto climb the French Direct further to the right, as a less objectivelydangerous alternative. Though slightly longer (10 rope lengths,

rather than 8), this route involves a similar level of technical difficultyand gives a very direct line to the summit.

HUASCARAN BOLIVIANCLIMBER

6,462m(21,200ft) / 22 Days / Grade 3B

Straddling the Andes, Bolivia is an unspoilt high-altitude country,which boasts some very high yet conveniently accessible mountains.Bolivian Climber is an exciting, well-balanced itinerary, climbing fourmajor peaks. The expedition is particularly suitable for those whohave completed Alpine routes of PD or Himalayan peaks such asMera, or equivalent.

As always, we take great care to allow adequate acclimatisation onthis expedition. After visiting Lake Titicaca, we warm up on PicoAustria (5,100m) and Pequeo Alpamayo (5,337m) in the Condoririarea. Our main climbing objectives are Huayna Potosi (6,094m)and Illimani (6,462m), which overlooks the capital city, La Paz. Bothprovide excellent snow climbs with the most challenging day beingthe summit day on Illimani. The most difficult section involves at leastone rope length of 50 ice climbing at an altitude of over 5,800m.Over the past few years, our teams have been extremely successfulwith members regularly summiting on Huayna Potosi and Illimani.

Part of this success is down to our excellent English-speaking Bolivianguides, who are familiar with the mountains and local conditions.

Bolivian Climber continues to be one of our most popular expeditions,balancing an action-packed programme of climbing with well-earnedrest periods and memorable cultural elements.

Climb Perus highest mountain after acclimatisingon Pisco and the Santa Cruz trek.

A Jagged Globe classic- ascents of four peaks in the

Bolivian Cordillera Real.

ALPAMAYO EXTENSION:

HUASCARAN

10 Days / Grade 3BA popular option for climbersis to stay on after Alpamayoand to join the Huascaran

group for an ascent of Perushighest mountain.

Descending Huascaran.

David Futyan

DuncanKing

SamFirmin

MicRofe




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,704m(18,709ft) / 16 Days / Grade 2B

ntisana is a rarely climbed peak in a remote and interesting partf Ecuador. It rises enticingly above the grasslands of the altiplano,urrounded by herds of wild horses, wolves, llamas and condors.he expedition is more remote than our Ecuador Volcanoes itinerary,

with some of the nights spent camping in the mountains rather thantaying in huts.

We spend a day in Quito, before travelling out to the countryside for

wo acclimatisation hikes. Then we revise our mountaineering skillsn the flanks of Cotopaxi, before travelling onwards to the Iliniza

Ecological Reserve and our first night at high altitude. From our basecamp, we make an ascent of Iliniza North (5,126m).

Following a rest day, it is a short but difficult drive in jeeps to the footof Antisana, which we climb over two days, before heading back toQuito. The ascent of Antisana is a superb and varied mountaineeringday out on complex glaciated terrain.

The whole trip is suitable for those with previous alpine climbingexperience on routes up to Grade PD or Scottish II.

5,746m(18,700ft) / 15 Days / Grade 2A

This expedition is a fine introduction to mountaineering

at higher altitudes for those with limited time. In justover two weeks, we climb three major summits andexplore some of the fascinating culture of Mexico.

The trip begins with a visit to the Teotihuacan Pyramids,before an acclimatisation hike around the crater lakesto the summit of Nevado de Toluca (4,691m). We thentransfer to a camp below Iztaccihuatl (or Izta), whichis located 50 miles southeast of Mexico City. In Aztecmythology Izta means sleeping lady and differentfeatures on the mountain are named after various female

body parts! At 5,260m this extinct volcano is Mexicosthird highest mountain. It is an interesting peak, withsnow, ice, rock and a superb long ridge.

After our ascent of Izta, we visit the cultural centre of

Puebla, with its lovely street cafes and stay overnightat an excellent hotel. We then head for Orizaba, whichat 5,746m is the highest peak in Mexico and the thirdhighest mountain in North America. It is a perfectlyconical shaped volcano dripping with glaciers, whichwe have an excellent success rate on, partly due tousing a high camp at 4,900m. To round off the trip, wespend a day sight seeing in Mexico City. The climbing istechnically moderate (Scottish Grade 1/Alpine Facile) inthis programme. Team members need to have completedGrade 1 scrambles and have some crampon and ice axe

experience. Our Introductory Winter Mountaineeringcourse in Scotland and our Scrambling course inSnowdonia, would serve as excellent preparation.

COLOMBIAN MOUNTAINEERA tough mountain trek in the North Eastern Andes, with an ascentof Ritacuba Blanco (5,330m) the highest peak in the range.

5,330m(17,487ft) / 17 Days / Grade 2A

Our Colombian Mountaineer expedition is suitable for fitmountain walkers, with crampon experience. The ascentof Ritacuba Blanco is comparable to Cotopaxi in Ecuador,though overall, this trip is more remote and physicallydemanding than Ecuador Volcanoes or Mexican Volcanoes.

Following our arrival and a city tour of Bogot, wetransfer by road to El Cocuy at the entrance to the Sierra

Nevada del Cocuy National Park. El Cocuy is one of themost beautiful towns in Colombia, reminiscent of thecharming white-washed towns of Andalucia in Spain.We spend two nights here and over the next three days,we hike in the surrounding mountains to a high point of4,500m as part of a careful process of acclimatisation.

Our main trek takes five days and journeys through awild mountain range, over high passes, up to 4,750m inaltitude, never sleeping lower than 3,800m. We crossrivers, trek through lush vegetation and alongside

beautiful azure alpine lakes to eventually arrive at Vallede los Cojines, the most spectacular of the valleys in thisarea. The valley is surrounded by 800m high verticalrock walls that drop from the 5,000m summits above.We must don our crampons to make the final ascent andcomplete the hardest day of the trek, to the summit ofEl Paso de Bellavista (4,850m). By now, we should bewell-acclimatised and prepared for our main objective.

Ritacuba Blanco is a non-technical ascent, followingrocky paths, then moraine to access the summit glaciers.The final section of the climb is on snow to reach thesummit ridge. From the summit, there are outstandingviews of valleys to the west fading away into the centralAndes, and to the east, the flat lands of the Orinoquawith its snaking rivers. On clear days, it is possible tosee the snow-covered peaks of Mrida, in Venezuela. Onour return to Bogot, we spend a night in the beautifulcolonial city of Villa de Leyva.

ANTISANA MEXICANVOLCANOES two-week climbing

dventure in a wild areaf Ecuador.

Ascents of three attractivevolcanoes in Mexico, includingOrizaba the countrys highest.

ECUADORVOLCANOESEXTENSIONS:GALAPAGOS ISLANDS

Why not extend your stay in Ecuadorand visit the Galapagos Islands?Please contact us for more details.

ANTISANAIf you would like to make the mostof your acclimatisation, Antisana isa superb objective for those withScottish Grade II climbing experience.Ecuadors highest mountain,Chimborazo (6,310m) has been too icyand dangerous to attempt in recentyears, so we do not currently offerthis. Antisana is guided at a 1:2 ratio.Please check our website for costs andindicate on your booking form if youwish to book this extension.

The worlds highest active volcano, Cotopaxi (5,897m), is a muchsought after prize for mountaineers. Our climbing programme inEcuador has evolved over the past decade, and combines glaciertraining with ascents of three major peaks, culminating in Cotopaxi.

After a tour of Quito, we make some acclimatisation treks on scenichills before the first major mountain, Illiniza North. This involves

easy scrambling sections and at 5,216m, also serves as excellentacclimatisation. We then take a rest in a comfortable hacienda,before travelling to Cayambe (5,790m), where we refresh ice axe andcrampon use and ropework for glacial travel. On the third day of ourstay here, we navigate the intricate maze of crevasses en route toCayambes summit the third highest in Ecuador. After this carefulpreparation, we are ready for Cotopaxi. This is the steepest mountainwe attempt with an interesting route among ice flutings leading to thespectacular snowbound crater rim.

To join our Ecuador Volcanoes expedition, you do not need any

previous mountaineering experience, though we recommend that youhave completed some grade 1 scrambles on exposed ridges (e.g. CribGoch or Striding Edge). We provide ice axe and crampon training onCayambe. Those who have climbed before have the opportunity toextend their stay by 3 days to attempt Antisana.

ECUADOR VOLCANOESAscents of the equatorial summits of Iliniza North,Cayambe and Cotopaxi.

5,897m(19,347ft) / 17-18 Days / Grade 2A

ntisana.

Thierry Levenq

Orizaba Mexicos highest volcano.

Thierry Levenq

Juan CarlosGonzalez

CLIMB/LATIN AMERICA

NEW

Mark Horrell

See page 66 fortrip dates. For pricesand booking go to



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CLIMB/THE COLD REGIONS

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With Jagged Globe, you can venture the last degreesto the South and North Poles and cross the Greenlandice cap a 550km journey from coast to coast.

We target unclimbed peaks on the east coast ofGreenland on our Greenland Explorer expedition andclimb Vinson, Antarcticas highest mountain and oneof the Seven Summits (see page 10).

COLDTHE

REGIONS

We also offer cruisesto the AntarcticPeninsula and alpinecrossings of SouthGeorgia. See ourwebsite and TREKbrochure.

chard Parks en route to the South

le as part of his 737 Challenge.etween January 2011 and July 2011chard will attempt to climb allven Summits, as well as venturing

e last degrees to both the Northd South Poles.

37 Challenge


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CLIMB/THE COLD REGIONS

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GREENLANDEXPLORERAn expedition deep into the frozenmountains of Arctic Greenland.

2,000m(6,560ft) / 18 Days / Grade 3B

Amidst one of the least explored lands on Earth,

many of the mountains and glaciers making up thevast range that runs the length of East Greenlandlie untouched. This expedition aims to explore,climb new routes and make first ascents in theSchweizerland Alps, towards the southern end of thechain. With quick access onto the glaciers, no altitudeproblems and long hours of daylight, the conditionsshould be perfect for an action-packed and rewardingtrip. Each day will often end under the most stunningdisplays of the Aurora Borealis.

The team flies to Reykjavik in Iceland before taking afurther flight by propeller plane across the Denmark

Strait to Greenland. From a remote Inuit village, wetravel by ski across frozen fjords, assisted by the localInuit and their dog sleds. Our team will be completelyself sufficient and have eight days to explore from ourbase camp on the glacier, tackling alpine scale peaksvia snow slopes, gullies and mixed alpine ground.

Places are available to mountaineers who haveprevious expedition experience and have climbed

Alpine Grade PD/Scottish Grade II or equivalent. Someskiing experience is needed (having descended blueruns) as skis are used to access the glaciers.

GREENLAND ICECAPCROSSING550km/ 35 Days / Grade 2D

Following the line of the Arctic Circle between Isortoqand Kangerlussuaq, this expedition will attempt a fullcrossing of Greenland from coast to coast. Travellingby ski, hauling all our equipment in sleds, the crossingis likely to take around 27 days. Each skiing day isbroken down into short segments, between whichwe take 10 minute breaks. We run a pre-expeditiontraining week in Finse, Norway, which team membersshould attend. To join the expedition, a high level of

endurance, self-motivation and ability to work as partof a team is essential.

THE SOUTH POLE THE LAST DEGREE

100km/ 21-22 Days / Grade 2D

Having assembled in Punta Arenas, Southern Chile, we fly to Union Glacier inAntarctica. From here, a smaller, ski-equipped aircraft takes us to 89 degrees south.We expect to average 10 miles a day, so it should take approximately a week to reach

the South Pole. Though far less demanding than travelling the whole distance fromthe Antarctic coast, this expedition will give a real taste of Antarctic exploration.You can combine this journey with an ascent of Vinson (see page 19).

THE NORTH POLE THE LAST DEGREE

100km/ 14-15 Days / Grade 2D

The team assembles in Longyearbyen, Spitsbergen, before flying 600 miles to CampBarneo, a drifting ice station at 89 degrees north, which was built by the Russians.

From here we set out for the pole on skis, pulling sleds across the drifting ice. Openwater leads and huge pressure ridges of ice are some of the many obstacleswe can expect. After approximately a week, we will arrive at the top of the globe,before a helicopter takes us back to Camp Barneo.

GREENLANDEXPLORER

POLESAPART

ANTARCTIC VOYAGER

AND SOUTH GEORGIATRAVERSEWe offer two cruisingoptions on the Antarctic

Peninsula. The AntarcticVoyager is a boat-basedexpedition, which goesashore and includes foraysinto the mountains andeasy summits.The alpine crossing ofSouth Georgia follows inthe footsteps of Shackleton

from King Hakkon Bay toStromness. Please visit

jagged-globe.co.uk formore details.

Exploring mountains on theeast coast of Greenland.

Lorenz Frutiger

737 Challenge

Using dog sleds to crossfrozen fjords on Greenlandseast coast.

Lorenz Frutiger

NEW

See page 67 for

trip dates. For pricesand booking go to



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NEW

CLIMB/REST OF THE WORLD

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MOUNTKENYASUMMITAn ascent of Mount Kenya to the truesummit, Batian, via the Gates of Mist.

5,199m(17,057ft) / 13 Days / Grade 4B

Mount Kenya is a massif of rocky peaks, the highestof which are Batian (5,199m) and Nelion (5,188m),with Point Lenana (4,985m) sometimes referred

to as the trekkers summit. Our expedition climbsthe McKinders Route on Nelion and traverses theGates of Mist to reach the highest pinnacles of themountain and the true summit - Batian.

The route on Nelion has HS/VS standard climbing,is about 19 pitches long and involves some movingtogether. You therefore need recent Alpine experience

at AD on rock, as a minimum. Acclimatisation beginswith a trek to Point Lenana and is consolidated byscoping out some of the early pitches on Nelion. This

ensures we are well acclimatised before setting outon the route for real.

Our first expedition to Mount Kenya was in December2010. All six team members, four climbers and twoleaders, reached the top.

MOUNT ARARAT

REST OF THE

WORLDMount Ararat.

Bekir Donmez

Descending Mount Ararat.

Bekir Donmez

On Mount KenyasMcKinders Route.

Thierry Levenq MOUNT KENYA RISES HIGHABOVE THE HIGHLANDS OFTHE AFRICAN HINTERLAND.CONTRARY TO WHATPEOPLE USUALLY THINK, IT ISNOT A TREKKING PEAK LIKEKILIMANJARO, BUT A PROPERCLIMB, A PROPER MOUNTAIN,WITH VERY STEEP ROCK.AND WHAT A CLIMB:

DAYS AND ALMOST

HOURS OF CLIMBING!

THIERRY LEVENQ

An ascent of Mount Ararat following an acclimatisationtrek through the beautiful Taurus Mountains.

5,137m(16,854ft) / 15 Days / Grade 1A

Turkeys snow capped Mount Ararat is located in the far north east ofthe country and is regularly climbed by those without mountaineeringexperience. At 5,137m it is important to take time to acclimatise, whichwe do by trekking through the Taurus Mountains, before travelling toArarat. This ensures that you enjoy the ascent of Ararat, which is all toofrequently rushed by those trying to climb it within a week-long trip.

After a full day of sightseeing in Istanbul, we fly to Kayseri and drive tothe Taurus Mountains. Our five-day trek takes us into the Emli Valley,

which is home to semi-nomadic tribes during the summer.

During the trek we cross two high passes and ascend Emler Peak(3,723m), cementing our acclimatisation. We descend from the highmountains to Karagol and drive to Dogubeyazit at the base of Ararat.

The climb up and down Mount. Ararat takes five days, utilising twocamps; at 3,200m and 4,200m. It normally takes between 6 and 8 hoursto reach the summit from the top camp. Crampons will be needed as theroute is on snow and steepens in places. The views on a clear day fromthe summit, into Iran, Armenia and Azerbaijan, are superb.





NEW


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CLIMB/COURSES

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To assist you in gaining the technical skills required totake part in expeditions to the Greater Ranges, we offera comprehensive range of training courses.

Many of our expedition leaders also instruct on our courses and theycan give you expert guidance as to suitable climbs. Even if you are not

planning future trips to the high mountains, the courses are brilliant, just ontheir own. They should help you develop your personal climbing and giveyou the confidence to venture onto harder routes, under your own steam.

COURSE SELECTORAs with our expeditions, we group our courses into INTRODUCTORY,INTERMEDIATE and ADVANCED. On page 56 we outline the gradingsystems used for climbs in the UK and the Alps, on snow, rock and ice.

Used together with the selector on the opposite page, they should helpyou decide which courses are suitable for you. They will also help youwhen you are considering our mountaineering expeditions.

INTRODUCTORYIntroductory courses are suitablefor beginner mountaineers, withno previous experience beyondsummer hill walking.

Scottish Grades:I & IIAlpine Grades: F & PD-UK Rock: Diff, V Diff & Severe

INTERMEDIATEIntermediate courses are suitablefor those who have completedprevious courses, or who possessbasic snow, ice, rock and ropework

skills.

Scottish Grades:II & IIIAlpine Grades: PD and PD+UK Rock: Severe, HS & VS

ADVANCEDAdvanced courses are forexperienced climbers who wantto push themselves on harderroutes. The courses are instructed

at a higher teaching ratio.

Scottish Grades: IV & VAlpine Grades: PD+, AD & DUK Rock: VS, HVS & E1

Course Page

Alpine Summer Courses 48

Alpine Introduction 49

Alpine Introduction Mont Blanc 49

Extension

High Level Alpine Trekking 50

Alpine Ice 51

Alpine Ice Chamonix/Cogne 51

Chamonix Ice Long Weekend 51

Alpine Ice La Grave 51

Scottish Winter Courses 52

Introductory Winter 53

Mountaineering

Introductory Long Weekend 53

Rock Climbing and Scrambling 54

Scrambling 54

Rock Introduction 54

Course Page


Alpine Techniques 49

Saas 4,000ers 49

Zermatt 4,000ers 49

Oberland 4,000ers 50

4,000ers Mont Blanc Extension 50

Mont Blanc Summit 50

Alpine Ice 51





Winter Mountaineering 53

Rock Climbing and Scrambling 54

Classic Rock 54

Course Page


Chamonix Climber 50

Alpine North Faces 50

Zermatt Climber 50

Alpine Ice 51





Snow & Ice Climbing 53

COURSES

THE COURSE PERSONNELWERE AMONG THE MOSTINSPIRING GROUP OFINDIVIDUALS IVE EVERMET. DOWN TO EARTHAND MODEST ABOUTTHEIR CONSIDERABLEACHIEVEMENTS.NEVER ONCE DID I

FEEL INTIMIDATED BY

LEARNING NEW SKILLS.

ASSERTIVE WHEN THEY

NEEDED TO BE, WE ALSO

HAD A GOOD LAUGH.

WINTERMOUNTAINEERING FEB TEAM MEMBER REPORT

CarolineOgden

See page 68

for course dates.For prices andbooking go to



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CLIMB/COURSES

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The glaciated Alps offer challenges beyond what isavailable in the UK. Our Summer Alpine Courses aredesigned to develop well-rounded, competent andself-reliant mountaineers.

We cater for those with no previous mountaineeringexperience, with our Alpine Introduction course,based in Arolla, Switzerland. This is designed to

give you a solid foundation in mountaineering. Ourprogramme then offers a clear route for progression,through our Intermediate 4,000ers and AlpineTechniques courses, to our Advanced Climbercourses and Alpine North Faces. Those who wish toclimb Mont Blanc can do so as a 3-day extension to aweek-long course, or on our Mont Blanc Summit week.

Alpine Introduction

Introductory/ Base: Arolla / Sat Sat / 6Days Mountaineering

The Alpine Introduction course

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