Chapter 2: Basic Patterns: Bodice

Objective Book Page Number

Lesson Outline

Cut and mark the muslin for the front bodice

8 Prepare the muslin Cut and mark the muslin for the front bodice

Pin the twill tape on the dress form

Pin the twill tape on the dress form to establish the horizontal balance

Drape the front bodice

8 - 10 Drape the front bodice

Evaluate the shoulder / neckline area

RUBRIC

Mark the muslin 10 Mark the front bodice

Evaluate the muslin drape

RUBRIC

True the muslin 10 True the muslin

Mark the armhole 11 Mark the armhole

Add the seam allowance

11 Add seam allowance and re - pin bodice

Cut and mark the muslin for the front bodice

11,12 Prepare the muslin Cut and mark the muslin for the back bodice

Drape the back bodice

12-14 Draping the back bodice

Evaluate the shoulder / neckline area

RUBRIC

Mark the muslin 14 Mark the drape

True the back drape to the front drape

14 -16 Transfer markings from front drape to back drape True the shoulder, waistline and armhole

Mark the neckline /armhole

15 Mark the neckline and true the back armhole

Add the seam allowance

16 Add seam allowance to the rest of the muslin

Re - pin the bodice and evaluate for accuracy and balance

RUBRIC

Chapter Objectives: After reading the chapter and completing the draping assignment the student will be able to:

1. Drape a basic front and back bodice. 2. Prepare the muslin for draping. 3. Pin the twill tape to the dress form. 4. Drape with ease across the form. 5. Correctly drape the shoulder / neckline area. 6. Correctly place the darts on the princess seams. 7. Mark the drape. 8. True the drape. 9. Work together with the Instructor to check the drape for accuracy and correct

balance Chapter Overview: Chapter 2 covers the draping of the basic pattern set: Bodice, skirt and sleeve draft. By the end of the exercises it is essential that the student understand the importance of preparation, draping with ease, accuracy and balance. This will ensure that they have a solid foundation for the exercises to follow. While draping is much more immediate and hands on than flat pattern and drafting, emphasis should be placed on stepping back to view the drape front to back and refining as needed. Don’t settle for the first answer! Lecture Outline:

I. Prepare the muslin for the front bodice drape: this can be a homework assignment. a) Review tearing the muslin on the lengthwise and crosswise grain line,

blocking and pressing the muslin. b) Review the measurements needed to cut the muslin. c) Review the markings to be made on the muslin based on the measuring the

dress form. II. Pin the horizontal lines on the dress form with twill tape:

a) Pin a twill tape from left bust point to right bust point ending at side seam. b) Pin a twill tape ¼ of the distance from the center back neckline to the

waistline. This is the horizontal balance line or across back.

III. Drape the front bodice:

a) Anchor the muslin at the Apex (bust point). b) Smooth the muslin up from the Apex and pin midway to the neckline. c) Drape the waistline dart. d) Drape the shoulder dart. e) Drape the neckline / shoulder area. f) Evaluate the shoulder / neckline area. RUBRIC. g) Mark the darts, shoulder, neckline and side seam. h) True the drape. Add Seam allowance. i) Evaluate the front drape. RUBRIC.

IV. Drape the back bodice:

a) Anchor the muslin to the dress form. b) Drape the back waist dart. c) Drape the neckline, shoulder and shoulder dart. d) True the drape to the front drape. Add seam allowance. e) Re-pin the drape on the dress form. f) Evaluate the drape. RUBRIC.

Review Questions:

1. Explain the procedure for preparing the muslin. 2. Why is it important to smooth the muslin instead of pulling the muslin over the

dress form? 3. Explain the purpose of draping the fitting darts over the princess line. 4. What should you look for in a properly balanced bodice drape?

Recommended Resources: Armstrong, Helen Joseph. Patternmaking for Fashion Design. 5e

Answers to Review Questions:

1. Explain the procedure for preparing the muslin. a) Clip and then tear the muslin to the specified measurements. b) Remove the selvage. c) Reshape the muslin by pulling on opposite corners until the grain is squared, d) Press along the lengthwise (straight) grain. e) Steam and dry.

2. Why is it important to smooth the muslin instead of pulling the muslin over the dress form?

a) Pulling the muslin results in a drape that is too tight. 3. Explain the purpose of draping the fitting darts over the princess line.

a) Placing the dart over the princess line ensures that the excess can be used to fit the bust.

4. What should you look for in a properly balanced bodice drape? a) Center front and back are aligned with the seams on the form. b) Shoulder seam is aligned. c) Side seam is aligned. d) Darts are positioned over the Princess Seams. e) The neckline and the armhole are not gaping.

Chapter 2 Basic Patterns: Skirt

Objective Book Page Number

Lesson Outline

Cut and mark the muslin for the front and back skirt

16 Prepare the muslin Cut and mark the muslin for the front bodice

Pin the twill tape on the dress form

Pin the twill tape on the dress form to establish the hip level

Anchor the muslin

17 Pin the front and back muslin to the dress form

Pin the side seam 17 Pin the side seam from hip level to hemline

Pin the side seam 17,18 Pin the side seam from hip level to waistline

Pinning the darts 18 Determine the dart excess divide and locate front waist darts

Pinning the darts 18 Determine the dart excess divide and locate back waist darts

Mark the drape 18 Mark the waistline, darts and side seam

True the drape 18,19 True the darts, waistline and side seams.

Evaluate the drape

19 Re-pin the drape and evaluate for accuracy. RUBRIC.

Pin the bodice to the skirt drape.

19,20 Pin or sew the bodice drape to the skirt drape

Chapter Objectives: After reading the chapter the student will be able to:

1. Drape a basic front and back skirt. 2. Prepare the muslin for draping. 3. Pin the twill tape to the dress form. 4. Drape with ease across the form. 5. Correctly drape Side seam shape. 6. Divide the dart excess and correctly place the darts on the front and back skirt. 7. Mark the drape. 8. True the drape.

9. Check the drape for accuracy and correct balance. 10. Pin the bodice drape to the skirt drape and check for accuracy.

Chapter Overview: Chapter 2 covers the draping of the basic pattern set: Bodice, skirt and sleeve draft. By the end of the exercises it is essential that the student understand the importance of preparation, draping with ease, accuracy and balance. This will ensure that they have a solid foundation for the exercises to follow. While draping is much more immediate and hands on than flat pattern and drafting, emphasis should be placed on stepping back to view the drape front to back and refining as needed. Don’t settle for the first answer! Lecture Outline:

I. Prepare the muslin for the front and back skirt drape: this can be a homework assignment. a) Review tearing the muslin on the lengthwise and crosswise grain line,

blocking and pressing the muslin. b) Review the measurements needed to cut the muslin. c) Review the markings to be made on the muslin based on the measuring the

dress form. II. Pin the horizontal lines on the dress form with twill tape:

a) Pin a twill tape from center front to center back 7” below the waistline tape. This is the hip level.

b) Anchor the muslin at center front and center back. c) Anchor the hip level to the twill tape on the dress form. d) Pin the side seam from the hip level to the hemline. e) Pin the side seam from the hip level to the waistline. f) Determine the dart excess on the front waistline. Locate and pin the darts.

First dart is located on princess seam line, second dart is located midway between the princess and the side seam.

g) Mark the waistline the darts and the side seam from the hip level up towards the waistline.

h) After removing the drape from the dress form, true the side seams from the hip level up. True the waist darts.

i) Re – pin the muslin on the dress form and evaluate for accuracy, fit and balance. RUBRIC.

j) Pin the bodice and skirt together and recheck on dress form. Review Questions:

1. Why is the side seam draped in two parts? 2. Where are the skirt darts located? 3. What should you be looking for when you are checking the skirt drape?

Recommended Resources: Armstrong, Helen Joseph. Patternmaking for Fashion Design. 5e Answers to Review Questions:

1. Why is the side seam draped in two parts? a) To allow for the curve of the hip.

2. Where are the skirt darts located? a) On center front and back princess and midway between the princess line and

the side seam. 3. What should you be looking for when checking the skirt drape?

a) Seams and darts are trued. b) Center front and center back are aligned with the seam lines. c) Side seam is aligned

Chapter 2: Basic Sleeve

Objective Book Page Number

Lesson Outline

Define sleeve ease and proper balance of the sleeve

Why does a sleeve need ease? How should a properly balanced sleeve hang? What does a sleeve pattern look like?

Review terminology and measurements for the basic sleeve

20 Discuss terminology and measurements for the basic sleeve.

Draft the basic sleeve

20, 21 Prepare the paper and mark the horizontal and vertical lines.

Shape the sleeve cap

21,22 Mark the touch points for drafting the sleeve cap.

Developing a fitted sleeve (optional)

22,23 Using a copy of the drafted sleeve to develop a fitted sleeve

Cut and sew the sample

23 Review the steps for cutting and sewing a basic sleeve.

Set the sample 23 Setting the sleeve in the basic bodice.

Evaluate the sleeve

Evaluate the sleeve for ease and balance. RUBRIC

Adjust the ease and mark the notches

24 Turning the sleeve in the armhole to adjust the balance.

Correct the sleeve: too much, too little ease

24 Pattern corrections for ease and balance.

Reevaluate the sleeve if necessary

Evaluate the sleeve for ease and balance. RUBRIC

Chapter Objectives: 1. Developing an accurate sleeve draft based on measurements. 2. Learning what ease is and how it should be distributed in the cap. 3. Acquire an understanding of the corrections necessary to adjust the sleeve for fit

and balance. Chapter Overview: Chapter 2 covers the draping of the basic pattern set: Bodice, skirt and sleeve draft. By the end of the exercises it is essential that the student understand the importance of preparation, draping with ease, accuracy and balance. This will ensure that they have a solid foundation for the exercises to follow. While draping is much more immediate and hands on than flat pattern and drafting, emphasis should be placed on stepping back to view the drape front to back and refining as needed. Don’t settle for the first answer! Drafting, properly setting and fitting sleeves is one of the most difficult tasks in patternmaking. You might find that your students tend to avoid sleeves in their designs because of this. In this part of the chapter, the student will learn the process of drafting, setting and fitting the basic sleeve. Lecture Outline:

I. The “basics” of a fitted sleeve: a) Fitted sleeves sewn in woven fabric require some amount of ease to

accommodate the difference in the shape of the bicep and the arm. The type of fabric and the shape of the arm will help determine the amount of ease that is necessary for a well-fitted sleeve. A typical sleeve cut in a tightly woven fabric needs about 1” – 1 ½” of ease. A sleeve cut in 100% wool (for a jacket for instance) can take more ease because the sleeve can be steamed and molded to fit into the armhole.

b) The centerline of the sleeve should be aligned with, or slightly forward of the side seam.

c) Show pattern pieces for a basic sleeve unfitted and fitted. d) Show and illustration of an improperly balanced sleeve versus a sleeve that

hangs in balance. II. Sleeve terminology:

a) Underarm length b) Bicep c) Elbow d) Wrist e) Overarm length

III. Measurements to take: a) Underarm length: Measure from the lowered armhole (usually 1” below the

armpit) to the wrist. b) Bicep Circumference: Measure the upper arm + 2” ease. c) Elbow circumference: Measure the elbow + 1” ease. d) Cap Height: Measure the overarm from the neckline to the wrist. Subtract

the shoulder seam and the underarm length. This will give the minimum cap height.

e) Or, use the chart provided in the textbook.

IV. Draft the sleeve: a) Cut a piece of paper 22” wide x 28” long. Fold the paper in half so that it

measures 11” x 28”. b) Work with the folded edge of the paper facing you. c) Cross-mark the fold of the paper 1” from the right edge of the paper. Square a

line from the fold. This is the top of the cap. d) Mark the bicep line. e) Mark the wrist level. f) Mark the elbow level. g) Cross mark ½ of the bicep measurement on the bicep level. h) Cross mark ½ of the elbow circumference on the elbow level i) Cross mark ½ of the wrist circumference on the wrist level. j) Connect the cross marks to draw the underarm seam. k) Cut the sleeve along the underarm seam. l) Mark the touch points to draft the cap shape. m) Connect the touch points to draw the cap. n) Cut the sleeve cap shape. o) Trim out the front cap in the curve of the armsceye.

V. Developing the fitted Sleeve (optional):

a) Trace a copy of the basic sleeve. b) Slash the elbow line from the back sleeve to the centerline. c) Block and press a piece of muslin. d) Mark the muslin on the lengthwise and crosswise grain lines. e) Pin the pattern to the muslin. f) Pivot the wrist to open the elbow dart. g) Outline the pattern on the muslin. h) Fold the muslin and true the underarm. i) Add ease to the elbow. j) Cross mark the underarm seam to control the ease. (Dart, pleat or gathers.)

VI. Cut and set the sleeve into the armhole: a) Baste cap with at least two rows of stitching: ½” and ¼”. b) Draw up the basting to fit sleeve into armhole. c) Matching centerline on sleeve with shoulder seam. d) Cross-mark the sleeve /armhole.

VII. Evaluate the sleeve. RUBRIC.

VIII. Correct the pattern (if needed) for ease and balance: a) Too much ease: drop armhole. b) Not enough ease: raise armhole. c) Sleeve swings to the front or back: Adjust the bodice side seam.

IX. Reevaluate the sleeve (if necessary). RUBRIC.

Review Questions:

1. What is the purpose of ease in the sleeve cap? 2. How should a properly balance sleeve hang? 3. What are the basic measurements needed to draft a sleeve? 4. Why would you use a fitted sleeve instead of the basic sleeve? 5. How can you correct a sleeve that doesn’t have the correct amount of ease? 6. How can you correct a sleeve that is not hanging in balance?

Recommended Resources: Armstrong, Helen Joseph. Patternmaking for Fashion Design. 5e

Answers to Review Questions: 1. What is the purpose of ease in the sleeve cap?

a) Allows for the difference in the shape of the shoulder and the shape of the bicep.

b) Provides comfort for the wearer. 2. How should a properly balance sleeve hang?

a) The center of the sleeve should be parallel to the side seam or hang slightly forward.

3. What are the basic measurements needed to draft a sleeve? a) Underarm, Bicep, Elbow Cap height.

4. Why would you use a fitted sleeve instead of the basic sleeve? a) Provides a closer, more tapered fitting.

5. How can you correct a sleeve that doesn’t have the correct amount of ease? a) Lower the armhole for too much ease. Raise the armhole to add ease

6. How can you correct a sleeve that is not hanging in balance? a) Retaining the grain line on the sleeve, rotate the sleeve. Adjust the bodice

side seam to match the underarm seam of the sleeve.