Chapter 11 Bodywork and fittings - WordPress.com · If the vehicle is very dirty, especially underneath or in the engine compartment, it is tempting to use one of the pressure washers

1081 VW Golf & Jetta

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Chapter 11Bodywork and fittings

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ftBumper bracket bolts:

Front . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82 61Rear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 52

Tailgate spider nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 4Front seat cap nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5 1.1Seat belt anchor bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 30

Body protective and decorative trim fittings - removal and refitting . 27Bonnet - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6Bonnet lock and release cable - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . 7Boot lid - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12Boot lid lock and lock cylinder - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . 13Bumper trim covering - removal and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23Bumpers - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22Central locking system - component removal and refitting . . . . . . . . 19Centre console - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29Door - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16Door handles - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15Door lock - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18Door rattles - tracing and rectification . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5Door striker - adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17Door trim panel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14Dust and pollen filter - renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34Exterior mirrors - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24Facia panel - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30

Front seats - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31Front wheel housing liner - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25Front wing - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26General information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1Major body damage - repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4Minor body damage - repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3Radiator grille - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8Rear seat - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32Seat belts- renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33Sunroof - removal, refitting and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28Tailgate - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10Tailgate lock, grip and lock cylinder - removal, refitting and

adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11Tailgate support strut - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9Vehicle exterior and interior - maintenance and inspection . . . . . . . 2Window regulator - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20Windows - removal and refitting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21

11•1

Specifications

Contents

Easy, suitable fornovice with littleexperience

Fairly easy, suitablefor beginner withsome experience

Fairly difficult,suitable for competentDIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable forexperienced DIYmechanic

Very difficult,suitable for expert DIYor professional

Degrees of difficulty

54321

1 General information

The vehicle bodyshell is of all-steel unitconstruction with impact-absorbing front andrear crumple zones which take the brunt ofany accident thereby leaving the passengercompartment with minimum distortion. Thefront crumple zones take the form of twocorrugated box sections in the scuttle andfirewall.

The Golf is available in two or four-doorhatchback versions, all models having a largetailgate which is propped open with a steelrod or gas-filled telescopic strut.

The Jetta is available only as a four-doornotchback, incorporating a conventional bootand lid.

On all models, the front wings are bolted tothe body and can easily be renewed in theevent of damage.

2 Vehicle exterior and interior -maintenance and inspection 1

Vehicle exteriorThe general condition of a vehicle’s

bodywork is the one thing that significantlyaffects its value. Maintenance is easy butneeds to be regular. Neglect, particularly afterminor damage, can lead quickly to furtherdeterioration and costly repair bills. It isimportant also to keep watch on those parts ofthe vehicle not immediately visible, for instancethe underbody, inside all the wheel arches and

the lower part of the engine compartment.The basic maintenance routine for the

bodywork is washing - preferably with a lot ofwater, from a hose. This will remove all theloose solids which may have stuck to thevehicle. It is important to flush these off insuch a way as to prevent grit from scratchingthe finish. The wheel arches and underbodyneed washing in the same way to remove anyaccumulated mud which will retain moistureand tend to encourage rust, particularly inwinter when it is essential that any salt (fromthat put down on the roads) is washed off.Oddly enough, the best time to clean theunderbody and wheel arches is in wetweather when the mud is thoroughly wet andsoft. In very wet weather the underbody isusually cleaned automatically of largeaccumulations; this is therefore a good timefor inspection.

If the vehicle is very dirty, especiallyunderneath or in the engine compartment, it istempting to use one of the pressure washers orsteam cleaners available on garage forecourts.Whilst these are quick and effective, especiallyfor the removal of the accumulation of oily grimewhich sometimes is allowed to become thick incertain areas, their usage does have somedisadvantages. If caked-on dirt is simplyblasted off the paintwork, its finish soonbecomes scratched and dull and the pressurecan allow water to penetrate door and windowseals and the lock mechanisms. If the full forceof such a jet is directed at the vehicle’sunderbody, the wax-based protective coatingcan easily be damaged and water (withwhatever cleaning solvent is used) could beforced into crevices or components that itwould not normally reach. Similarly, if suchequipment is used to clean the enginecompartment, water can be forced into thecomponents of the fuel and electrical systemsand the protective coating can be removed thatis applied to many small components duringmanufacture; this may therefore actuallypromote corrosion (especially inside electricalconnectors) and initiate engine problems orother electrical faults. Also, if the jet is pointeddirectly at any of the oil seals, water can beforced past the seal lips and into the engine ortransmission. Great care is required, therefore, ifsuch equipment is used and, in general, regularcleaning by such methods should be avoided.

A much better solution in the long term isjust to flush away as much loose dirt aspossible using a hose alone, even if this leavesthe engine compartment looking dirty. If an oilleak has developed, or if any otheraccumulation of oil or grease is to be removed,there are one or two excellent grease solventsavailable, which can be brush applied. The dirtcan then be simply hosed off. Take care toreplace the wax-based protective coat, if thiswas affected by the solvent.

Normal washing of the bodywork is bestcarried out using cold or warm water with aproprietary car shampoo. Remove deadinsects with a proprietary cleaning product;tar spots can be removed either by usingwhite spirit, followed by soapy water toremove all traces of spirit, or by using a tarremover. Try to keep water out of the bonnetair inlets and check afterwards that the heaterair inlet box drain tube is clear so that anywater has drained out of the box.

After washing the paintwork, wipe off with achamois leather to give an unspotted clearfinish. A coat of clear protective wax polish,will give added protection against chemicalpollutants in the air. If the paintwork sheenhas dulled or oxidised, use a cleaner/polishercombination to restore the brilliance of theshine. This requires a little effort, but suchdulling is usually caused because regularwashing has been neglected. Care needs tobe taken with metallic paintwork, as specialnon-abrasive cleaner/polisher is required toavoid damage to the finish.

Brightwork should be treated in the sameway as paintwork.

Windscreens and windows can be keptclear of the smeary film which often appears,by the use of a proprietary glass cleaner.Never use any form of wax or chromiumpolish on glass.

Vehicle interiorMats and carpets should be brushed or

vacuum cleaned regularly to keep them free ofgrit. If they are badly stained remove themfrom the vehicle for scrubbing or spongingand make quite sure they are dry beforerefitting.

Where leather upholstery is fitted it shouldbe cleaned only if necessary, using either amild soap (such as saddle soap) or aproprietary leather cleaner; do not use strongsoaps, detergents or chemical cleaners. If theleather is very stained, seek the advice of aVW dealer. Fabric-trimmed seats and interiortrim panels can be kept clean by wiping with adamp cloth and a proprietary cleaner. If theydo become stained (which can be moreapparent on light coloured upholstery) use alittle liquid detergent and a soft nail brush toscour the grime out of the grain of thematerial. Do not forget to keep the headliningclean in the same way as the (fabric)upholstery.

When using liquid cleaners of any sortinside the vehicle, do not over-wet thesurfaces being cleaned. Excessive dampcould get into the seams and padded interiorcausing stains, offensive odours or even rot. Ifthe inside of the vehicle gets wet accidentallyit is worthwhile taking some trouble to dry itout properly, particularly where carpets areinvolved. Do not leave oil or electric heatersinside the vehicle for this purpose.

3 Minor body damage - repair 2Repair of minor scratches inbodywork

If the scratch is very superficial and doesnot penetrate to the metal of the bodywork,repair is very simple. Lightly rub the area ofthe scratch with a paintwork renovator, or avery fine cutting paste to remove loose paintfrom the scratch and to clear the surroundingbodywork of wax polish. Rinse the area withclean water.

Apply touch-up paint or a paint film, to thescratch using a fine paint brush. Continue toapply fine layers of paint until the surface ofthe paint in the scratch is level with thesurrounding paintwork. Allow the new paint atleast two weeks to harden, then blend it intothe surrounding paintwork by rubbing thescratch area with a paintwork renovator, or avery fine cutting paste. Finally apply waxpolish.

Where the scratch has penetrated rightthrough to the metal of the bodywork, causingthe metal to rust, a different repair techniqueis required. Remove any loose rust from thebottom of the scratch with a penknife, thenapply rust inhibiting paint, to prevent theformation of rust in the future. Using a rubberor nylon applicator fill the scratch withbodystopper paste. If required, this paste canbe mixed with cellulose thinners, to provide avery thin paste which is ideal for filling narrowscratches. Before the stopper-paste in thescratch hardens, wrap a piece of smoothcotton rag around the top of a finger. Dip thefinger in cellulose thinners, and quickly sweepit across the surface of the stopper-paste inthe scratch; this will ensure that the surface ofthe stopper-paste is slightly hollowed. Thescratch can now be painted over as describedearlier in this Section.

Repair of dents in bodyworkWhen deep denting of the vehicle’s

bodywork has taken place, the first task is topull the dent out, until the affected bodyworkalmost attains its original shape. There is littlepoint in trying to restore the original shapecompletely, as the metal in the damaged areawill have stretched on impact and cannot bereshaped fully to its original contour. It isbetter to bring the level of the dent up to apoint which is about 3 mm below the level ofthe surrounding bodywork. In cases where thedent is very shallow anyway, it is not worthtrying to pull it out at all. If the underside of thedent is accessible, it can be hammered outgently from behind, using a mallet with awooden or plastic head. Whilst doing this,hold a suitable block of wood firmly againstthe outside of the panel to absorb the impactfrom the hammer blows and thus prevent alarge area of the bodywork from being“belled-out”.

Should the dent be in a section of thebodywork which has a double skin or someother factor making it inaccessible frombehind, a different technique is called for. Drillseveral small holes through the metal insidethe area - particularly in the deeper section.Then screw long self-tapping screws into theholes just sufficiently for them to gain a goodpurchase in the metal. Now the dent can bepulled out by pulling on the protruding headsof the screws with a pair of pliers.

The next stage of the repair is the removalof the paint from the damaged area and froman inch or so of the surrounding soundbodywork. This is accomplished most easilyby using a wire brush or abrasive pad on apower drill, although it can be done just aseffectively by hand using sheets of abrasivepaper. To complete the preparation for filling,score the surface of the bare metal with ascrewdriver or the tang of a file, oralternatively, drill small holes in the affectedarea. This will provide a really good key for thefiller paste. To complete the repair see theSection on filling and respraying.

11•2 Bodywork and fittings


Repair of rust holes or gashes inbodywork

Remove all paint from the affected area andfrom an inch or so of the surrounding soundbodywork, using an abrasive pad or a wirebrush on a power drill. If these are notavailable a few sheets of abrasive paper willdo the job most effectively. With the paintremoved you will be able to judge the severityof the corrosion and therefore decide whetherto renew the whole panel (if this is possible) orto repair the affected area. New body panelsare not as expensive as most people thinkand it is often quicker and more satisfactoryto fit a new panel than to attempt to repairlarge areas of corrosion.

Remove all fittings from the affected areaexcept those which will act as a guide to theoriginal shape of the damaged bodywork (egheadlamp shells etc). Then, using tin snips ora hacksaw blade, remove all loose metal andany other metal badly affected by corrosion.Hammer the edges of the hole inwards inorder to create a slight depression for the fillerpaste.

Wire brush the affected area to remove thepowdery rust from the surface of theremaining metal. Paint the affected area withrust inhibiting paint, if the back of the rustedarea is accessible treat this also.

Before filling can take place it will benecessary to block the hole in some way. Thiscan be achieved by the use of aluminium orplastic mesh, or aluminium tape.

Aluminium or plastic mesh or glass-fibrematting, is probably the best material to use fora large hole. Cut a piece to the approximatesize and shape of the hole to be filled, thenposition it in the hole so that its edges arebelow the level of the surrounding bodywork. Itcan be retained in position by several blobs offiller paste around its periphery.

Aluminium tape should be used for small orvery narrow holes. Pull a piece off the roll andtrim it to the approximate size and shaperequired, then pull off the backing paper (ifused) and stick the tape over the hole; it canbe overlapped if the thickness of one piece isinsufficient. Burnish down the edges of thetape with the handle of a screwdriver orsimilar, to ensure that the tape is securelyattached to the metal underneath.

Bodywork repairs - filling andrespraying

Before using this Section, see the Sectionson dent, deep scratch, rust holes and gashrepairs.

Many types of bodyfiller are available, butgenerally speaking those proprietary kits arebest for this type of repair which contain a tinof filler paste and a tube of resin hardener, ora ‘no mix’ which can be used directly from thetube. A wide, flexible plastic or nylonapplicator will be found invaluable forimparting a smooth and well contoured finishto the surface of the filler.

Mix up a little filler on a clean piece of cardor board - measure the hardener carefully(follow the maker’s instructions on the pack)otherwise the filler will set too rapidly or tooslowly. Alternatively, a ‘no mix ‘can be usedstraight from the tube without mixing, butdaylight is required to cure it. Using theapplicator apply the filler paste to theprepared area; draw the applicator across thesurface of the filler to achieve the correctcontour and to level the surface. As soon as acontour that approximates to the correct oneis achieved, stop working the paste - if youcarry on too long the paste will become stickyand begin to pick-up on the applicator.Continue to add thin layers of filler paste attwenty minute intervals until the level of thefiller is just proud of the surroundingbodywork.

Once the filler has hardened, excess can beremoved using a metal plane or file. From thenon, progressively finer grades of abrasivepaper should be used, starting with a 40grade production paper and finishing with a400 grade wet-and-dry paper. Always wrapthe abrasive paper around a flat rubber, cork,or wooden block - otherwise the surface ofthe filler will not be completely flat. During thesmoothing of the filler surface the wet-and-drypaper should be periodically rinsed in water.This will ensure that a very smooth finish isimparted to the filler at the final stage.

At this stage, the dent should besurrounded by a ring of bare metal, which inturn should be encircled by the finelyfeathered edge of the good paintwork. Rinsethe repair area with clean water, until all of thedust produced by the rubbing-downoperation has gone.

Spray the whole area with a light coat ofprimer, - this will show up any imperfections inthe surface of the filler. Repair theseimperfections with fresh filler paste orbodystopper and once more smooth thesurface with abrasive paper. If bodystopper isused, it can be mixed with cellulose thinnersto form a really thin paste which is ideal forfilling small holes. Repeat this spray andrepair procedure until you are satisfied thatthe surface of the filler and the feathered edgeof the paintwork are perfect. Clean the repairarea with clean water and allow to dry fully.

The repair area is now ready for finalspraying. Paint spraying must be carried outin a warm, dry, windless and dust freeatmosphere. This condition can be createdartificially if you have access to a large indoorworking area, but if you are forced to work inthe open, you will have to pick your day verycarefully. If you are working indoors, dousingthe floor in the work area with water will helpto settle the dust which would otherwise be inthe atmosphere. If the repair area is confinedto one body panel, mask off the surroundingpanels; this will help to minimise the effects ofa slight mis-match in paint colours. Bodyworkfittings (eg chrome strips, door handles etc)will also need to be masked off. Use genuine

masking tape and several thicknesses ofnewspaper for the masking operations.

Before commencing to spray, agitate theaerosol can thoroughly, then spray a test area(an old tin, or similar) until the technique ismastered. Cover the repair area with a thickcoat of primer; the thickness should be builtup using several thin layers of paint ratherthan one thick one. Using 400 grade wet-and-dry paper, rub down the surface of the primeruntil it is really smooth. While doing this, thework area should be thoroughly doused withwater and the wet-and-dry paper periodicallyrinsed in water. Allow to dry before sprayingon more paint.

Spray on the top coat, again building up thethickness by using several thin layers of paint.Start spraying in the centre of the repair areaand then, with a side-to-side motion, workoutwards until the whole repair area andabout 50 mm of the surrounding originalpaintwork is covered. Remove all maskingmaterial 10 to 15 minutes after spraying onthe final coat of paint.

Allow the new paint at least two weeks toharden, then, using a paintwork renovator, ora very fine cutting paste, blend the edges ofthe paint into the existing paintwork. Finally,apply wax polish.

Plastic componentsWith the use of more and more plastic body

components by the vehicle manufacturers (egbumpers, spoilers and in some cases majorbody panels), rectification of more seriousdamage to such items has become a matterof either entrusting repair work to a specialistin this field, or renewing completecomponents. Repair of such damage by theDIY owner is not really feasible owing to thecost of the equipment and materials requiredfor effecting such repairs. The basic techniqueinvolves making a groove along the line of thecrack in the plastic using a rotary burr in apower drill. The damaged part is then weldedback together by using a hot air gun to heatup and fuse a plastic filler rod into the groove.Any excess plastic is then removed and thearea rubbed down to a smooth finish. It isimportant that a filler rod of the correct plasticis used, as body components can be made ofa variety of different types (eg polycarbonate,ABS, polypropylene).

Damage of a less serious nature (abrasions,minor cracks etc) can be repaired by the DIYowner using a two-part epoxy filler repairmaterial or a ‘no mix’ which can be useddirectly from the tube. Once mixed in equalproportions (or applied direct from the tube inthe case of a ‘no mix’), this is used in similarfashion to the bodywork filler used on metalpanels. The filler is usually cured in twenty tothirty minutes, ready for sanding and painting.

If the owner is renewing a completecomponent himself, or if he has repaired itwith epoxy filler, he will be left with theproblem of finding a suitable paint for finishingwhich is compatible with the type of plastic

Bodywork and fittings 11•3

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used. At one time the use of a universal paintwas not possible owing to the complex rangeof plastics encountered in body componentapplications. Standard paints, generallyspeaking, will not bond satisfactorily to plasticor rubber, but a proprietary paint to match anyplastic or rubber finish can be obtained fromdealers. However, it is now possible to obtaina plastic body parts finishing kit whichconsists of a pre-primer treatment, a primerand coloured top coat. Full instructions arenormally supplied with a kit, but basically themethod of use is to first apply the pre-primerto the component concerned and allow it todry for up to 30 minutes. Then the primer isapplied and left to dry for about an hourbefore finally applying the special colouredtop coat. The result is a correctly-colouredcomponent where the paint will flex with theplastic or rubber, a property that standardpaint does not normally possess.

4 Major body damage - repair 5Where serious damage has occurred, or

large areas need renewal due to neglect, itmeans that complete new panels will needwelding in. This is best left to professionals. Ifthe damage is due to impact, it will also benecessary to check completely the alignmentof the bodyshell. This can only be carried outaccurately by a VW dealer using special jigs. Ifthe body is left misaligned, it is primarilydangerous as the vehicle will not handleproperly and secondly, uneven stresses willbe imposed on the steering, suspension andpossibly transmission, causing abnormal wearor complete failure, particularly to items suchas the tyres.

5 Door rattles - tracing andrectification 1

1 Check first that each door is not loose at itshinges and that the latch is holding the doorfirmly in position.

2 Check that each door lines up with theaperture in the vehicle body. Adjust the door ifout of alignment.3 If a latch is holding its door in the correctposition but the latch still rattles, then the lockmechanism is worn and should be renewed.4 Other rattles from the door could be causedby loose glass channels or wear in the windowoperating or interior lock mechanisms.

6 Bonnet - removal, refittingand adjustment 2

1 Support the bonnet in its open position andplace some cardboard or rags beneath thecorners by the hinges.2 Mark the location of the hinges with a pencilthen loosen the four retaining bolts (seeillustration).3 Where applicable, disconnect thewindscreen washer tubes from the jets on thebonnet (see illustration).4 With the help of an assistant, release thestay, remove the bolts and withdraw thebonnet from the vehicle.5 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Adjust thehinges to their original positions and checkthat the bonnet is level with the surroundingbodywork.6 If necessary, adjust the height of the bonnetfront edge by screwing the rubber buffers inor out (see illustration). 7 Check that the bonnet lock operates in asatisfactory manner.

7 Bonnet lock and releasecable - removal and refitting 2

Bonnet lock1 The bonnet lock is not adjustable forposition and is secured to the front crosspanel by four pop-rivets (see illustration). Toremove the lock, disconnect the lock releasecable then carefully drill down through therivets and withdraw the lock. 2 Refit the lock by reversing the removalprocedure. Ensure that the new pop-rivetssecure the lock firmly.

Release cable3 To remove the bonnet lock release cable,raise and support the bonnet then remove theradiator grille.4 Reaching through the aperture in the front,press the release to one side and disconnectthe cable from it (see illustration). Releasethe cable from the retaining clip on theunderside of the front panel.5 Unclip the cable from the retainers in theengine compartment.6 Detach the cable from the release handleinside the vehicle and pull the cable throughthe bulkhead grommet and remove it.7 Refit the cable in the reverse order toremoval. Check for satisfactory operation ofthe catch before closing the bonnet.8 If the cable should break with the bonnetshut, it is possible to release the catch by


6.2 Bonnet hinge 6.3 Disconnecting windscreen washertubes from bonnet

6.6 Bonnet rubber buffer

7.1 Bonnet lock and securing rivets 7.4 Bonnet release cable-to-lockattachment


hand. A largish screwdriver will just reach thelock release when inserted through the grillecentre badge. By pushing the screwdriver orcarefully using the badge as a pivot, thebonnet can be unlocked.

8 Radiator grille - removal andrefitting 1

1 Raise and support the bonnet.2 Undo and remove the two grille retainingscrews on the top front edge (seeillustration). 3 Release the clips from the top of the grille(see illustration). Withdraw the grille lifting itupwards from the front valance. 4 Refit in the reverse order of removal.

9 Tailgate support strut -removal and refitting 1

1 Open and support the tailgate.2 Unhook the spring clip from the end of thestrut attached to the body, pull up theball-head and disconnect the strut from theball-pin (see illustrations).3 Lever the spring clip from the other end ofthe strut, remove the washer and withdrawthe strut from the pivot pin.4 Refit in the reverse order of removal.

10 Tailgate - removal andrefitting 2

Removal1 Open and support the tailgate. Disconnectthe straps supporting the rear shelf.2 Remove the trim panel using a wide-bladedscrewdriver and disconnect the wiring fromthe heated rear window and wiper motor.Disconnect the washer tube and pull thewiring and tube from the tailgate.3 Pull the weatherseal from the body apertureby the hinge positions.

4 Carefully pull the headlining down to revealthe hinge bolts.5 Lever the spring clips from the struts,remove the washers and disconnect the strutsfrom the tailgate.6 Unscrew the hinge bolts and withdraw thetailgate from the vehicle.

Refitting7 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Beforetightening the hinge bolts, ensure that thetailgate closes centrally within the bodyaperture.8 On completion, adjust the lock if necessary.

11 Tailgate lock, grip and lockcylinder - removal, refittingand adjustment

11 Open the tailgate and unscrew the two lockretaining screws with an Allen key. Withdrawthe lock (see illustrations).2 The striker plate can be removed byundoing the two retaining screws.3 To remove the tailgate grip and lockcylinder, undo the cross-head screws on theoutside. Move to the inside and compress the


11

8.2 Undoing front grille retaining screws 8.3 Front grille securing clips

9.2a Releasing tailgate strut balljoint clip 9.2b Tailgate support strut end fittings


retaining lugs each side of the lock cylindertogether then pull free the grip (seeillustration). 4 Fit the key to the lock cylinder, prise freethe retaining clip and withdraw the lockcylinder by pulling on the key. 5 To remove the cylinder housing, prise freethe retaining ring and withdraw the housingfrom the grip. 6 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Beforefully tightening the striker, close and open thetailgate two or three times to centralise it.

12 Boot lid - removal, refittingand adjustment 2

1 Support the boot lid in the open positionthen place some cardboard or rags beneaththe corners by the hinges. 2 Disconnect the wiring loom and mark thelocation of each hinge.3 With the help of an assistant, unscrew thenuts and withdraw the boot lid from the vehicle.4 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Adjust thehinges to their original positions so that theboot lid is level with the surrounding bodywork.

13 Boot lid lock and lockcylinder - removal andrefitting

1The boot lid lock and lock cylinder are of

similar design to the equivalent items on thetailgate fitted to Golf models (see illustration).Refer to Section 11 for removal and refittingdetails.


11.1b Tailgate lock

11.3 Tailgate grip/lock cylinder retainingclip (A) and securing ring (B)

Compress lugs (arrowed) in directionindicated

13.1 Boot lid lock components (Jetta)


11.1a Tailgate lock components

14 Door trim panel - removaland refitting 2

Removal1 Unscrew and remove the door locking knob(see illustration).2 Remove the inner handle surround bysliding it to the rear (see illustration). 3 Prise the cover from the door pull with asmall screwdriver, remove the cross-headscrews and withdraw the door pull (seeillustrations).4 Note the position of the window regulatorhandle with the window shut then prise off thecover, remove the cross-head screw andwithdraw the handle and washer (seeillustrations).

5 Where applicable, prise free the door mirroradjuster knob and remove the gaiter (seeillustration).6 Remove the self-tapping screws andwithdraw the storage compartment panel(where applicable).7 Prise out the stoppers and remove thecross-head screws from the trim panel (seeillustrations).8 Using a wide-bladed screwdriver, prise thetrim panel clips from the door whilst taking carenot to damage the panel. Remove the panel.9 Remove the window regulator handlepacking (where applicable). 10 Carefully prise free the plastic cover foraccess to the inner door components (seeillustration).

Refitting11 Refitting is a reversal of removal. It is

recommended that the window regulatorhandle retaining screw is locked by coating itsthreads with a liquid locking agent.


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14.1 Unscrewing door locking knob 14.2 Removing door inner handle surround 14.3a Removing door pull cover

14.7a Remove stoppers (where necessary)for access to trim panel screws

14.7b Trim panel retaining screw removal(rear edge)

14.10 Plastic cover peeled back foraccess to door components

14.4a Remove window regulator handlecover . . .

14.3b Removing door pull retainingscrews

14.4b . . . and handle retaining screw 14.5 Removing door mirror adjuster knob




15.2a Front door components - pre 1988

15.2b Front door components – from 1988

a = 310 mm1 Exterior handle2 Locking rod3 Door lock4 Locking pin5 Seal6 Internal remote control7 Pull rod8 Window regulator9 Window glass

15 Door handles - removal andrefitting 2

Interior1 Remove the door trim panel. 2 Pull the foam seal away then prise theretainer from the bottom of the handle (seeillustrations).3 Press the finger plate forwards out of thedoor and unhook it from the rod (seeillustration). 4 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Exterior5 Remove the door trim panel. 6 Using a small screwdriver, lever the plasticstrip from the exterior door handle. 7 Remove the cross-head screws from thehandle grip and the end of the door. 8 Withdraw the handle and release it from thelock (see illustration). Remove the gaskets. 9 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Fit newgaskets if necessary.

16 Door - removal and refitting 2Removal1 Open the door and use a punch to drive thepivot pin up from the check strap (seeillustration).

2 Mark the position of the door on its hinges.3 Support the door then unscrew and removethe lower hinge bolt followed by the upperhinge bolt. Withdraw the door from thevehicle.

Refitting4 Refitting is a reversal of removal.5 If necessary, adjust the position of the dooron the hinges so that when closed, it is levelwith the surrounding bodywork and centralwithin the body aperture.6 Lubricate the hinges with a little oil and thecheck strap with grease.7 If necessary, adjust the door strikerposition.

17 Door striker - adjustment 21 Mark round the door striker with a pencil orfine ballpoint pen (see illustration).2 Fit a spanner to the hexagon on the strikerand unscrew the striker about one turn so thatit moves when tapped with a soft-headedhammer.3 If the door has been rattling, tap the strikertowards the inside of the vehicle.4 If the door fits too tightly, tap the strikertowards the outside of the vehicle.5 At all times, be careful to keep the striker inthe same horizontal line unless it also requiresvertical adjustment. Only move the striker asmall amount at a time. The actual amount

moved can be checked by reference to themarks made before the striker was loosened.6 When a position has been found in whichthe door closes firmly but without difficulty,then tighten the striker.

18 Door lock - removal andrefitting 2

Removal1 It is not necessary to remove the trim panelto carry out this task.2 Open the door and set the lock in thelocked position, either by moving the interiorknob or by turning the exterior key.3 Using an Allen key, unscrew the retainingscrews and withdraw the lock approximately12 mm to expose the operating lever (seeillustration) .4 Retain the operating lever in the extendedposition by inserting a screwdriver throughthe hole in the bottom of the lock (seeillustration).5 Unhook the remote control rod from theoperating lever and pull the upper lever fromthe sleeve. Withdraw the lock from the door.

Refitting6 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Set thelock in the locked position first and ensurethat the lugs on the plastic sleeve arecorrectly seated.


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15.3 Removing interior door handle andfinger plate

15.8 Exterior door handle components 16.1 Door check strap and hinge

17.1 Door striker 18.3 Door lock18.4 Using a screwdriver through the doorlock hole (E) to retain operating lever (A) in

extended position

Remove handle in direction of arrow


19 Central locking system -component removal andrefitting

21 The central locking system fitted to somemodels comprises the following (seeillustration):a) Pressure/vacuum pumpb) Control element - on driver’s doorc) Shift elements - on remaining doors and

fuel tank flapd) Interconnecting tubing.

2 To remove the pressure/vacuum pump,release the rubber strap in the luggagecompartment, remove the cover, thenwithdraw the pump and disconnect the wiringand tube.3 To remove a control or shift element, firstremove the door, tailgate, or luggagecompartment trim panel (as appropriate). Ondoor elements, carefully peel back theprotective foil. Remove the element mountingscrews and disconnect the tubing. On thedriver’s door only, disconnect the wiring.Disconnect the operating rod (except on thefuel tank flap) and withdraw the element.4 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Ensurethat the door protective foil is firmly stuck toprevent water penetration and use double-sided tape to secure it if necessary.

20 Window regulator - removaland refitting 3

Manual1 Remove the door trim panel.2 Temporarily refit the window regulatorhandle and lower the window until the liftingplate is visible.3 Remove the bolts securing the regulator tothe door and the bolts securing the liftingplate to the window channel (seeillustrations).4 Release the regulator from the door andremove it through the aperture.5 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Ensurethat the inner cable is adequately lubricated

with grease and if necessary, adjust theposition of the regulator so that the windowmoves smoothly.

Electric6 Disconnect the battery earth lead.7 Remove the door trim panel.8 Lower the window to enable the boltssecuring the lifting plate to the windowchannel to be unscrewed.9 Disconnect the wiring connector.10 Unscrew and remove the windowregulator motor securing bolts and the threebolts securing the guide rail (see illustration).

11 Withdraw the window regulator assembly(ie. the motor, cables and guide rails) from theaperture at the bottom end of the door.12 Refit in the reverse order of removal.Ensure that the upper cable is locatedunderneath the guide rail securing bracketand, when refitting the door trim panel, theplastic cover is crease free.


20.3a Window regulator securing bolts 20.3b Lifting plate-to-window channelbolts

20.10 Window regulator (electric)

1 Wiring connector2 Motor securing

bolts

3 Guide rail bolts


19.1 Central locking system – left-hand drive shown

A WiringB Tubing1 Bellows2 Front door shift element

(or control element onRHD)

3 Connector4 Rear door shift element5 Fuel tank flap shift element6 Grommet7 Connector8 Tailgate shift element

9 Connector10 Pressure/vacuum pump11 Connector12 Rear door shift element13 Front door control element

(or shift element on RHD)

21 Windows - removal andrefitting 5

Doors1 Remove the window regulator.2 With the window fully lowered, unclip theinner and outer mouldings from the windowaperture.3 Remove the bolt and screw and pull out thefront window channel abutting the cornerwindow.4 Withdraw the corner window and seal. 5 Lift the glass from the door.6 Refitting is a reversal of removal. If the glassis being renewed, make sure that the liftchannel is located in the same position as inthe old glass.

Windscreen and fixed glass7 Removal and refitting of the windscreenand fixed glass windows is best left to a VWgarage or windscreen specialist who will havethe necessary equipment and expertise tocomplete the work properly.

22 Bumpers - removal andrefitting 2

Warning: Under no circum-stances should the vehicle bedriven with the front bumperand bumper brackets not

securely fitted, as in this condition thefront crossmember which supports theengine is no longer properly secured.

Front1 Disconnect the battery negative lead andthe wiring to the direction indicator lights. 2 Raise the front of the vehicle and support

securely on axle stands (see “Jacking andvehicle support”).3 Place a jack (with interposed block ofwood) under the engine front mounting andraise the jack head until it is just taking theweight of the engine. 4 Working underneath the front of the vehicle,undo and remove the bumper brackets fromthe longitudinal member on each side thenwithdraw the bumper (see illustration).5 Refitting is a reversal of removal Check thatthe indicators operate in a satisfactorymanner on completion.

Rear6 Raise and support the vehicle securely atthe rear.7 Working underneath the rear of the vehicle,undo and remove the two bumper supportbracket retaining bolts on each side (seeillustration).8 Withdraw the bumper by pulling itrearwards and disengaging it from the guideon each side quarter panel (see illustration).9 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

23 Bumper trim covering -removal and renewal 2

1 Remove the bumper concerned.2 Use a suitable lever to carefully prise freethe old covering from the bumper.3 To fit the new covering, locate the coveringon the bumper then support the covering andbumper with the covering underneath (bumperinverted). Use a firmly padded support ifpossible to protect the new covering.4 Press or tap the bumper down onto thecovering so that the securing clips engage inthe bumper. Start from the centre and workprogressively outwards, alternating from sideto side.5 Refit the bumper on completion.

24 Exterior mirrors - removaland refitting 2

Pre 1988

Non remote control1 Prise the plastic cover from inside the door.2 Unscrew the cross-head screws andremove the clips.3 Withdraw the outer cover and mirror.4 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Remote control5 Pull off the adjusting knob and bellows fromthe inside of the door (see illustration). 6 Remove the door trim panel.7 Unscrew the locknut and remove theadjusting knob from the bracket .8 Prise off the plastic cover then unscrew thecross-head screws and remove the clips.9 Withdraw the mirror, together with theadjusting knob and gasket. 10 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Ifnecessary, fit a new gasket.


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22.4 Front bumper bracket securing points to longitudinalmember (arrowed)

22.7 Rear bumper bracket bolts (arrowed)

22.8 Bumper side quarter panel locationguide


1988-on11 From 1988, the exterior mirrors aremounted in the triangular area in front of thewindow glass (see illustration).12 The removal and refitting procedures arebasically the same as for earlier models.13 The mirror glass is clipped in position andmay be removed by carefully levering out thebottom edge, then the top edge, using aplastic or wooden tool.14 When refitting the glass, align the guidepins and use a wad of cloth, pressing only onthe middle of the glass.

25 Front wheel housing liner -removal and refitting 1

1 Raise the front of the vehicle and support it onaxle stands (see “Jacking and vehicle support”). 2 Remove the roadwheel from the sideconcerned.3 Remove the two cross-head screws fromthe positions indicated (see illustration).4 Swivel the liner 90° downwards and pull itfree from the elongated hole.5 Undo and remove the cross-head screws(with washers) from the points indicated (seeillustration) then withdraw the liner afterdisengaging its location peg “A” from theleading lower edge.


25.5 Wheel housing liner securing screwlocations (arrowed)

25.3 Remove wheel housing liner retainingscrews (arrowed)


24.5 Exploded view of remote control exterior mirror - pre 1988

24.11 Exterior mirror glass components – from 1988

1 Body2 Trim3 Packing4 Inner trim

5 Screw6 Clip7 Glass8 Bracket

9 Pop-rivets10 Nut11 Bellows12 Adjusting knob

6 Renew any retaining screw location rivetswhich are damaged. 7 Refit in the reverse order of removal.

26 Front wing - removal andrefitting 3

1 A damaged front wing may be renewedcomplete. First, remove the front bumper. 2 Remove the screws and withdraw the linerfrom inside the wing. 3 Where applicable, disconnect/remove thewing-mounted radio aerial. 4 Remove all the screws and lever the wingfrom the guides (see illustration). If necessary,warm the sealing joints with a blowlamp to meltthe adhesive underseal whilst observing thenecessary fire precautions.5 Clean the mating faces and treat with rustinhibitor if necessary.6 Apply sealant along the line of the screwsbefore fitting the wing. Once in place, applyunderseal as necessary.7 Paint the wing then fit the liner and frontbumper.

27 Body protective anddecorative trim fittings -removal and refitting

3Tailgate spoiler and foils - GTi1 The spoiler is secured by a nut, grommetand spacer sleeve. Access to the retainingnuts is gained by removing the inner trimpanel and prising free the nut cap (seeillustration).2 When refitting the spoiler, ensure that thebody surface is clean.3 The foils are stuck in position with adhesiveand are best removed and refitted by a VWdealer. If refitting them yourself, the workingtemperature must be between 15 and 25°Cand it is essential that the body surface towhich the foil is to be fitted is thoroughlycleaned and prepared.

Rear spoiler - Jetta GT 4 Open the boot lid and unscrew the nutswhich secure the spoiler retaining clips. 5 Lift the spoiler from the boot lid.

Wheel arch extensions6 These are secured to the wing panels bypop-rivets. Drill out the rivet heads andremove the arch extensions (see illustration).7 Refit in the reverse order, ensuring that theadjacent body sections are cleaned off andprepared. Start riveting at the centre and workalternately down from it (side to side).

Protective rubbing strips

Adhered type8 To remove a rubbing strip, you will need toheat the strip using a suitable hot air blower.


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27.1 Tailgate spoiler (A) and foils (B) – GTi

1 Protective cap2 Nut3 Rubber grommet

4 Spacer sleeve5 Butyl cord (5.0 mm dia.)

26.4 Front wing retaining screw positions (Jetta)

Care must be taken to protect the paintwork.9 Clean off any adhesive and polish usingwhite spirit and a suitable silicone remover.10 Before fitting the new strip into position,check that the contact area on the body is dryand heat it to a temperature of 35°C. Peelback the foil from the new strip and carefullylocate it into position by pressing firmly home,particularly at each end.

Clipped type 11 The side rubbing strips may be removedusing a lever to prise them from their fixingclips (see illustration). Protect the paintworkby taping the end of the lever. 12 When fitting a strip, engage the loweredge under the clip and give a sharp blowwith the hand to force the upper edge intoengagement.

28 Sunroof - removal, refittingand adjustment 2

Removal1 Half open the sunroof then prise off the fivesteel trim clips. 2 Close the sunroof and push the trim to therear. 3 Unscrew the guide screws from the front ofthe sunroof and remove the guides (seeillustration). 4 Disengage the leaf springs from the rearguides by pulling them inwards. 5 Remove the screws and withdraw the rearsupport plates.6 Lift the sunroof from the vehicle.


27.11 Side rubbing strip components

1 Rubbing strip2 Retainer

3 Clip


27.6 Wheel arch extensions showing retaining rivet positions at trailing lower edge

28.3 Sunroof components

1 Sliding roof panel2 Moulded seal3 Deflector arm4 Wind deflector5 Rear guide with

cable (one part)

6 Cover moulding7 Cable guide8 Cable drive

mechanism9 Crank10 Panel headlining

11 Finger plate12 Front water drain

hose13 Support plate14 Guide rail

15 Guide rails endsection

16 Rear water drainhose

17 Water trap plate18 Panel seat

Refitting7 To refit the sunroof, locate it in the apertureand fit the front guides. 8 With the sunroof closed and correctlyaligned, fit the rear guides and leaf springs.

Adjustment9 For correct adjustment, the front edge ofthe sunroof must be level with, or a maximumof 1.0 mm below, the roof panel. The rearedge must be level with, or a maximum of 1.0mm above, the roof panel (see illustration).10 To adjust the front edge of the sunroof,loosen the front guide screws and turn theadjustment screws as necessary, then tightenthe guide screws.11 To adjust the rear edge, detach the leafsprings, loosen the slotted screws and movethe sunroof as necessary in the serrations.Tighten the screws and refit the leaf springsafter making the adjustment.12 Refit the trim with the clips.

29 Centre console - removal andrefitting 1

1 Disconnect the battery earth lead.2 Unscrew and remove the gear lever knobthen unclip and withdraw the gaiter.3 Undo the retaining screws and pull free theconsole from its guides at the rear.Disconnect any console switch leadconnectors (see illustration).4 Refit in the reverse order of removal. Checkthe operation of the console switches (wherefitted) on completion.

30 Facia panel - removal andrefitting 3

Removal1 Remove the steering wheel.2 On certain models, a protective knee-bar isfitted across the lower edge of the facia panel.To remove the bar, first peel back theweatherstrip from the edge of the dooraperture and the trim in the vicinity of theknee-bar end brackets. Extract the bracketfixing screws and withdraw the bar (seeillustration).3 Undo the retaining screws and withdrawthe undertray on the driver and passengersides (see illustrations).


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28.9 Sunroof adjustment dimensions

29.3 Centre console retaining screw(arrowed) and guide locations (A)

30.3b Facia panel lower shelf retainingscrew locations – passenger side

(left-hand drive) shown

30.3a Facia panel lower shelf retainingscrew locations – driver’s side

(left-hand drive) shown


30.2 Knee-bar attachments

A Knee-bar B Retaining bracket 1 Screw 2 Screw

4 Remove the centre console.5 Pull free the heater/fresh air control knobsthen carefully unclip the control panel trim anddetach the electrical connectors.6 Remove the radio/cassette unit or cubbyhole, the instrument panel cluster and theloudspeaker and grille.7 Remove the air vent pivot grilles by carefullylevering them free. Undo the screws securingthe air vent housing and lever out the housing.8 Remove the facia panel retaining screwsfrom the points indicated (see illustration).To remove the nuts/bolts at the front, accessis from the plenum chamber in the enginecompartment.9 Check that the facia panel is fullydisconnected then carefully withdraw it fromthe vehicle.

Refitting10 Refit in the reverse order of removal.When fitting the securing nuts in the plenumchamber use the correct type of sealingwashers.11 On completion, check the operation of thevarious instruments, switches and controls.

31 Front seats - removal andrefitting 2

Pre 19861 Prise free the runner cover and clip towardsthe rear of the seat (see illustration).2 Pull the cover from the runner and then pullthe seat forwards.3 Unscrew the cap nut then remove thewasher and cheesehead screw (seeillustration).

4 After releasing the securing rod, remove theseat rearwards.5 Difficulty in seat position adjustmentlongitudinally is probably due to worn frontand rear slides, in which case they must berenewed (see illustration). 6 Refitting is a reversal of the removalprocedure. Tighten the cap nut to thespecified torque setting.

1986 on7 Remove the screw (1) and slide off thecover (2) from the runner (see illustration).


31.5 Front seat rear slide (arrowed) - pre 1986

31.7 Front seat runner and cover – from 1986

1 Screw 2 Cover

31.1 Front seat runner cover removal -pre 1986

Unclip cover and remove in direction arrowed

31.3 Front seat securing rod andassociated components - pre 1986

Front slide arrowed


30.8 Facia panel securing points (left-hand drive shown)

Ensure correct location of sealing washer(A) when refitting

8 Remove the cross-head screw (3) and pullthe cap (4) from the seat guide (seeillustration).9 Slide the seat fully forward and thenunscrew the cap nut. Extract the circlip andfillister head screw.10 Release the locking bar and slide the seatrearwards out of the guide rails. 11 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

32 Rear seat - removal andrefitting 1

1 Remove the seat cushion by pressing onthe pressure points each side at the frontlower edge of the cushion, then lifting thecushion (see illustration).2 On the luggage compartment side, releasethe backrest retaining hooks whilst anassistant pushes the backrest downwards(see illustration).3 Refitting is a reversal of the removalprocedure. Ensure that the backrest retaininghooks fully engage.

33 Seat belts - renewal 21 When removing each seat belt anchor bolt,note carefully the fitted order of the washers,bushes and anchor plate for reference duringreassembly (see illustrations).2 Note that from early 1986, some models arefitted with front seat belts incorporating heightadjustment of the B pillar attachment point(see illustration).


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31.8 Front seat guide fixing – from 1986

3 Screw 4 Cap

32.1 Rear seat cushion pressure points forremoval (arrowed)

32.2 Rear seat backrest retaining hooklocations in luggage compartment – A and

B (Jetta and Golf convertible)

33.1d Front seat belt anchorage to B pillar(upper)

33.1e Rear seat belt anchorage to floor 33.1f Rear seat belt anchorage to C pillar

33.1a Front seat belt anchorage to side-member

Spring end (1) points to upper recess of beltlink and is then tensioned 270° andhooked onto link pin

33.1b Front seat belt anchorage to B pillar(lower)

33.1c Front seat frame anchorage


3 These adjustable seat belts can be fitted toany model having a chassis number later than16/19 G 054 900, but a new B pillar trim mustalso be fitted.4 Never modify a seat belt or alter itsattachment point to the body.

34 Dust and pollen filter -renewal 2

This filter is fitted (or can be fitted) to allmodels covered by this Manual.

The filter is located in the air inlet within theplenum chamber at the right-hand side of theunderbonnet area (see illustration). Accessto the filter is gained after removing theanti-leaf mesh and the water deflector.



34.2 Dust/pollen filter location

1 Filter2 Filter housing3 Anti-leaf mesh4 Water deflector

33.2 Height-adjustable seat belt components

A Adjuster bracketB Socket-head screwC Pivot boltD Release knobE CapF Relay link

Documents

Chapter 11 Bodywork and fittings - WordPress.com · If the vehicle is very dirty, especially underneath or in the engine compartment, it is tempting to use one of the pressure washers