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hile present day Egypt is richlyfascinating, Ancient Egypt is the mainreason why millions of tourists still flockto it each year. The Egypt of the ancient

world, which began its journey withearly Nile settlers nearly 8000 years ago,slowly became a centre for culture,science and the arts. Excelling quitenaturally at mathematics andarchitecture, (something thedimensions of the pyramids attest to),its rich culture was the envy ofneighbours even then. The first thing you'll want quite

Feast your eyes on a liberal mixture of pyramids,tombs and temples that are everywhere, from

Giza to Saqqara to Luxor

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Enchanted by

Egypt

WBY PREETHA LEELA CHOCKALINGAM

Egypt

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Luxury1) Cairo Marriot Hotel & Omar Khayyam Casino 2) Ramses Hilton Cairo3) The Nile Ritz Carlton

Middle of the RangeHoliday Inn Cairo (recommended), Staybridge Suites Cairo (rates vary)

BudgetThe Australian Hostel in Downtown Cairo (recommended) Try airbnb.com, for a personalised and economical, pleasant stay

Sequoia, La Pacha,Petit Swiss Chalet,Felfela, Street Food,Pizzeria Thomas

AccommodationFood

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naturally to see in Egypt is theancient world and luckily, you canfeast your eyes on a liberal mixtureof pyramids, tombs and temples thatare everywhere, from Giza, toSaqqara to Luxor.

SAQQARAA forty five minute to an hour'sdrive from Cairo (dependingentirely on traffic and your choice ofvehicle), Saqqara is home to one ofthe world's oldest survivingconstructions; the step pyramid ofDjoser. Once a memorial land oftombs and pyramids, Saqqarathrived for a number of years beforebeing discarded in favour of otherplaces, where newer memorials werebuilt. On a clear day, this pyramidcan be seen from Giza. Indeed atSaqqara itself, recent archaeologicaldigs have led to the unearthing ofseveral mummified animals likedogs, all possibly mummified tokeep their owners company or tocarry prayers regarding their ownersto the heavens!

GIZAThe pyramids of Khufu as well as themystical Sphinx lie in Giza, (part ofthe old city of Memphis). Massive instature, these pyramids are thought tobe tombs for the Pharaohs. Muchlooting of the pyramids has happenedover the years, leading to stones beingtaken away. No one is allowed to tryand climb the pyramids anymore andthank God for that! To call it anarchitectural and historical feat interms of survival is anunderstatement. This is something we

as a race must bequeath to ourdescendants for the next thousandyears at least! Do not miss seeing theSphinx. While at Giza, you might beapproached by all too friendly guideshappy to take you around by camel.Do keep safety in mind before youagree. Arrange any camel ridesbeforehand with your own trustedtour guide. You might also findyourself being talked into accepting aseemingly, sumptuous buffet lunch.Try to go for a reasonably priced dealthat overlooks the pyramids, it won'tbe much different and most

restaurants around the Gizamonuments do have magnificentviews. While the food in Egypt is onthe whole really good, the buffets atrestaurants near the pyramids arequite disappointing. Prepare yourselffor a moderately tasty but notexclusive lunch and enjoy the view ofthe pyramids. There's really nothinglike overlooking them and sippingcoffee or wine. It's almost surreal.

LUXORCalled an 'open air' museum, Luxorwas once the ancient city of Thebes

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and had a population of less thanhalf a million people. Up until200 years ago, that was still a hugeand heaving statistic! Luxor hassome of the most magnificentarchitecture in Egypt andconsidering all of Egypt is filledwith gravity defying architecture,that is really something. Once youare at Luxor, you will see some ofthe finest possible statues.Ramesses II, famed for being avibrant and enthusiastic Pharaoh,was keen that he be foreverenshrined in posterity through self

styled architectural tributes. Hisidea was that he would eventuallybe worshipped as one of theEgyptian Gods. Of the six templesof Luxor, the two most famousare Karnak and Luxor itself. Likemost historic places in Egypt,there is a light show as it darkensand you must not miss the view ofthe sitting Ramesses in the night.

ALEXANDRIAA coastal town that turns its noseup at Cairo, Alexandria has thelaidback atmosphere of a beach

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Destroyed and rebuilt several timesand over, there is now a new libraryin Alexandria (BibliothicaAlexandrina) that has been built as atribute to the Egyptian permanentquest for knowledge.

Down at the foot of the SaqqaraNecropolis is the Imhotep Museumholding exhibits from the dynasties.

Starting with the pre-dynastic peri-od, Egypt can trace its history rightback to (4000 to 3000BC). Thedynasties after this period total up to31. These were followed by theHellenistic period (with rulers asfamous as Cleopatra) and then later,the Roman period (30 BC to 313 Ad)

While you might want to walk downthe steps of the pyramid, you arestrongly advised to re-think.Fascinating though it may be, it isalso extremely claustrophobic andthe humid weather can make youdizzy. Admire the pyramid at Gizafrom outside instead and if you arereally tempted to go inside, thenmake sure you have a few sips ofwater before hand and take a fewdeep breaths.

A must do in Egypt is taking aFeluka down the Nile. These sailingboats have changed little in the lastthousand years and you will get tosee much history.

Do not miss out on the Cairo Tower.It is a supreme experience to eat inthe revolving restaurant and see thesun set on the pyramids from the topfloor of the tower. To say that thepyramids are impressive 'up close' isan understatement, but when yousee them from the Tower, gentlytowering over the rest of Egypt, youcan make out a little family; a pro-tective husband and father, with hisgracefully female consort and theindependent eldest child ready totake over from the father.

�GOOD FOODPrepare yourself fora moderately tastybut not exclusivelunch and enjoy theview of the pyramids

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Photos: Getty Images

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hangout with all the history of therest of Egypt. Alexandria housedpossibly the most famous Egyptianwoman of all times: Cleopatra. Donot miss the Roman Amphitheatre,which was no doubt the Roman wayof imprinting their own structuralpresence in an Egypt which hadvastly superior architecture.

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Called an 'open air' museum,Luxor was once the ancient

city of Thebes

While taking a Feluka down the Nile would be the way forward for those of uson a budget; if you can afford a river cruise, do take one. There are three toseven-day cruises

1. See the pyramids at Giza.2. Visit, Luxor, Abu Simbel, Alexandria and Sharm El Sheikh 3. Spend at least three days in Cairo and go to the Cairo

Tower, the view from the top must not be missed!4. Walk around Khan El Khalili (please do make sure

someone knows where you are though, it's huge andyou could easily get lost)

5. Go to the Museum of Cairo.6. Take a belly dance class (several available in Cairo,

google beforehand, but arrange while there).7. Visit Sequoia and have a coffee or cocktail while

admiring the Nile.8. Check out some of the oldest churches and step into the

mosque at 'Khan El Khalili' at midnight.9. Go to the bookshops; there are several shopping centres

with big bookshops, and the bookshops have some rarefinds that you wouldn't find elsewhere.

10 Buy yourself some turquoise coloured miniature pyramids in front of the pyramids at Giza and exploreEgyptian cultural performances by night, by watching aballet at Cairo's Opera House, it is really worth it.

10 must-dos in Egypt

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ABU SIMBELThe temples of Abu Simbel arebreathtaking. So do not miss a daytrip to them. Built as a tribute toAmun Ra, the megalomaniacalPharaoh Ramesses 11 managed tomake several deities of himself andhis consort Nefertari (not to beconfused with Nefertiti) here.

NILE CRUISEWhile taking a Feluka down the Nilewould be the way forward for thoseof us on a budget, if you can afforda Nile cruise, do take one. There arethree to seven-day cruises. You willsightsee during the day and at night,you will be treated to a sumptuousbuffet, cocktails and some slightly'rubbing the allure of Egypt in yourface' style belly dancing!

CAIROThere is so much to see and do inEgypt history wise, that apart fromseeing the historic sites, we decidedto focus primarily on Egypt's capital

in terms of shopping, etc. With anold-fashioned Coptic Christianquarter and a huge souk bazaar'Khan El Khalili' that is open wellpast midnight and filled with historicmosques. Being close to thepyramids at Giza, Cairo is reflectiveof this history. Khan El Khalili or thebazaar is about 700 years old.Bracelets, necklaces, chandeliers, andbelly dance outfits await you alongwith Koshery, a street dish made ofmacaroni, lentils, rice, chick peas andfried onion. This delicious dish is likethe Egyptian equivalent of our ownbhelpuri. Hot and freshly made pittabreads and foul medames (favabeans) can be found in little way sideeateries all through Egypt. For thosewho want to try traditional food inmore trustworthy surroundings,check out 'Felfela' (in Abdin), thefood is impossibly good value formoney and the 'Um Ali', (anEgyptian bread pudding) is out ofthis world. Do try it. If you crave forpizza, then visit 'Maison Thomas' inZamalek. The pizzas are freshlymade and would make Italians go'mama mia'. Want to eat by the Nile?There are two very sophisticatedplaces that we'd recommend. Thefirst is La Pacha. This boat restaurantis huge and overlooks the beautifulriver. The food is nice but notparticularly cheap, however, it has avery chilled ambience. The secondplace is Sequoia. Its interior isstunning and faces the wide expanseof the Nile. It is the single mostgorgeous restaurant for miles aroundand quite reasonably priced for that.Do try their Sambousek. Thesecheese rolls are like cheesy versions ofour samosas.

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>> TIPAlways check for updates onthe political situation andmake sure it's safe for tourists!

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