Farthingale: A thick hoop skirt made out of wood or whale bone.
Under the skirt to give it its round shape. Chemise: A straight
cloth gown of linen or silk worn under everything else. Drawers:
Undergarment with legs. Covers the lower part of the body. Pleat: A
sewn fold in clothing. Petticoat: A skirt. Sometimes multiple were
worn at once. Codpeice:a flap or cover for the crotch in men's hose
or tight-fitting breeches, usually matching the costume and often
decorated. Slashing: a decorative slit in a garment showing an
underlying fabric. Ruff: A high standing collar made of linen or
lace and pleated many times. Corset: Same as a bodice. Bodice: Worn
over the Chemise. Usually sleevless. Made of whale bone or wood.
Tightly pulled to make one appear thinner. Zimarra: A cassock with
a small cape attached. Also called simar. Cassock: A long,
close-fitting coat, usually worn by clergy or religious
people.
Slide 4
Italy is where the renaissance began, and also where major
fashion trends in Europe started around 1300. Italy had a monopoly
on the fabric and silk trade To be fashionable was very expensive
since the clothing had many layers and was made of fine materials.
The lower classes wore black and grays, though dark colors became
popular to show off jewelry. Red and purple dye meant nobility.
Flamboyant and rounded shapes. Feathered hats. Big hats. Use of
lace and frills near the later years. Highly decorated lacey wrist
cuffs near the later years. Decorative/Fashionable Armor. Clothing
was tight and hard to move around in, and sometimes even breathe
in. Highly inconvenient. Richly adorned. Large elegant and
extravagant ruffs appeared in the late 15 th Century, later
reappearing in the 17 th century. Accentuated Physique Silver and
gold embroidery or embossment. Wigs crafted from peasants hair
Northern Europe crafted elaborately decorated armor and helmets.
Fur cloaks to ward off fleas. Some areas would not allow peasants
to possess any silk or nice clothing. The Italian influence on
fashion ended with the decline of Eastern trade in the course of
the 16th century. Pointed toe shoes until about 1500 where shoes
started to have heels and be flat at the toe. Highly decorated and
usually uncomfortable. Renaissance styles and Influences.
Slide 5
Fashionable women shaved their eyebrows and foreheads, making a
high hairline. Veils and pulled back hairstyles. Horned Headresses.
Long gowns with decorated sleeves. Low neckline. Makeup and
bleached hair. Hair decorated with flowers and ribbons. Jewelry
like pearls and metal rings. Carrying accessories like fans
Slide 6
Fabric becomes richer and heavier. New patterns and ways of
wearing clothes. The Burgundian fashion of wearing hose that
developed into stocking trousers over time. Emphasized well toned
legs. Laced doublet and a long extravagant cape, the zimarra. Hat
fashion more important even for men. Feathers sewn into hats and
jackets. Armor was worn as decoration. Codpieces emphasized ones
manliness.
Slide 7
~1558-1603
Slide 8
Venetian: A tape or braid for supporting the slats of a
venetian blind. V-waist: Bodices came down lower, but made a
V-shape emphasizing hips. French breeches: Tight and ruffled puffs
about the thighs. Garters: An article of clothing for holding up a
stocking or sock, usually an elastic band around the leg or an
elastic strap hanging from a girdle or other undergarment.
Slide 9
During this time Spain was gaining a lot of ground in the new
world, and was very rich with incoming gold and resources. France
and Englands styles were often based off of Spanish ones, and
Spanish ones were based off of old Italian ones. Queen Elizabeth
was a big promoter of fashion, and was known as one of the most
fashionable women in Europe. Stiff and rigid, tight. Ruffs are more
common now than they were during the Renaissance. Heeled shoes and
boots. Heavier fabrics. As Spains short-lived empire died down
nearing the 17 th Century, France becomes the leader in fashion,
with England always one step behind them. Nobles would need
assistance in getting dressed.
Slide 10
Women wore large ruffs. Hair was styled by putting wires in it,
giving it a wing shape often times. Flat-chested appearance
Slide 11
Heeled knee-high boots. Blouses that exposed the chest Large,
pleated, poofed out trunks and tight hose underneath, held up by
garters. Doublets with attachable sleeves. Small cloaks and
coats.
Slide 12
1620 - 1660
Slide 13
Frock: A simple gown or dress Muff: A tubular case for the
hands to stay warm in. Made of fur usually. Jabot: a standing
collar with a pleated, ruffled, or lace-trimmed frill down the
front. Van Dyke: What they called the falling collars.
Slide 14
France is now the leader in the fashion world, Spain no longer
dominating much of anything. Prim and posh with soft yet attractive
colors. Boots with slouchy tops Long flowing hair High waistline
Soft looking Less stiff Embroidery Hats with plumes Falling lace
collars Ribbons and bows Feminine This period ended with a move
towards more colonial and rich fashions. King Louis XIV of France
would be a strong promoter of fashion. France and Netherlands.
Slide 15
Feathers decorating hair. Ruffles and looser clothing. Less
stiffness and more comfort. Sensual and soft.
Slide 16
Wide-brimmed dark colored hats with large plume feathers.
Looser sleeves and less constricting collars and trunks. Thigh-high
leather boots that were designed for comfort.
Slide 17
1660 - 1715
Slide 18
Manteau: a cloak or mantle. Dcolletage: The neckline of a dress
cut lo w in the front or back and of ten across the shoulders.
Britches: A variant of Breeches Periwig: a wig, such as a
peruke.
Slide 19
Louis XIV of France Wealthy Following the end of the Thirty
Years' War and the Restoration of England's Charles II, military
influences in men's clothing were replaced by a brief period of
decorative exuberance which then sobered into the coat, waistcoat
and breeches costume that would reign for the next century and a
half. Long, lean collar line with a low waist for both men and
women. Plunging neckline Periwig as an essential item of men's
fashion. Elegance Poor hygiene Perfumes
Slide 20
A wide, high-waisted look of the previous period was gradually
extended by a long vertical line, with horizontal emphasis at the
shoulder. Full, loose sleeves ended just below the elbow at mid
century and became longer and tighter in keeping with the new
trend. The body was tightly corseted, with a low, broad neckline
and dropped shoulder. In later decades, the overskirt was drawn
back and pinned up to display the petticoat, which was heavily
decorated.
Slide 21
Periwigs, really big. Imposing and vertical look. Canes and
long white socks or stockings Shoes with buckles Wide coats and
ruffled shirts Long, embroidered coats
Slide 22
1715-1775
Slide 23
Pannier: Overskirt Brocade: A fabric woven with an elaborate
design, especially one having a raised overall pattern. Mob Cap: A
round, bonnet-style women's hat, which was fitted to the head with
a series of pleats or gathers. Tricorne: Having three horns or
hornlike projections; three-cornered. Bombazine: A twill fabric
constructed of a silk or rayon warp and worsted filling, often dyed
black for mourning wear.
Slide 24
The Enlightenment glorified women through art and philosophy.
Powdered hair King Louis influenced the hourglass shape. Silk
brocade shoes with heels Fullness in sides. Ribbons, lace, birds,
flowers. Feminine and pretty. Vests, coats, and jabots. Colonial
wig, bag wig. More free and revealing. Poufy. Ended by the French
Revolution.
Slide 25
Powdered faces and red rouge on cheeks. Corset with V-bodice
Sweetheart necklines Ribbons and lace Sausage curls Lighter basket
waist undergarment.
Slide 26
Tight fitting coat More practical Lace and decorative buttons
Flat shoes with metal buckles. Wigs
Slide 27
1790 - 1795
Slide 28
Jacquard: A fabric with an elaborately woven pattern p roduced
on a Jacquard loom. Seersucker: Striped linen with a pucker
Redingote: A dress or lightweight coat, usually belted, o pen along
the entire front to reveal a dress or petticoat worn underneath
it.
Slide 29
The Industrial Revolution brought new looms and ways of making
clothing. The French Revolution shuts down any advances in fashion
in France, the leader falls to England. Long robes or dresses.
Simplistic. Children get play-clothes. White silk Phrygian Bonnets
Hair gets bigger Waistcoats and trousers Ornate military costumes.
Spencer Jackets Stripe patterns.
Slide 30
Cosmetics used to hide bad skin Bonnets and pulled back hair
Long gowns resembling robes. Robe a la Francias was a long dress
with vibrant pretty colors and ribbons tied into bows down the
front. Robe a la Englais was simply fitted all the way down.
Slide 31
Long waistcoats. Long lacey jabots. Powdered wigs. Lacey
sleeves make a comeback. Velvet, Satin, Silk
Slide 32
1795 - 1815
Slide 33
Incroyable: Name for the French fop or dandy of the peri od of
the Directory. Carrick: a kind of knot, used for bending together
hawsers or other ropes.
Slide 34
After the French Revolution when the Directory was instated,
followed by Napoleon. Tophats Poufy Shawls First male fashion
plates Moving towards Romanticism Led again by France Interest in
the classical lines of Greece
Slide 35
1795 - 1815
Slide 36
Crinoline: A petticoat of haircloth or other stiff material,
worn under a full skirt to keep it belled out. Zouave Jacket: A
short open fronted jacket with long sleeves, similar to that
historically worn by Zouaves.
Slide 37
Emphasis on a small waist, rounded sloping shoulders, and small
necks Hourglass shape for both genders. Civil War in USA brought
about some of the new fashions.
Slide 38
Fashionable women looked like porcelain dolls. Hair pulled up.
Corsets make a come-back. Frock coats and Zouave Jackets. Hoop
skirts
Slide 39
Wasp waist. Clean shaven, sometimes with small mustaches.
Modern evening attire. Top hats and canes. Tailcoats.
Slide 40
1870 - 1890
Slide 41
Basque: One of a people of unknown origin inhabiting the
western Pyrenees regions in France and Spain. Bolero: A jacket
ending above or at the waistline, wit h or without collar, lapel,
and sleeves, worn open in front.
Slide 42
Spains economy improves a bit, and they jump back into the
fashion game. France and England still lead. Named after Englands
Queen Victoria. Bowler hats, morning coats Charles Worth and Levi
Strauss First department store Sewing machines invented The start
of true couture
Slide 43
Parosols Large poufy dresses with bright, happy colors. Fans as
an accessory Hair decorations
Slide 44
Top hats, bowler hats Canes Tailcoats Elaborate cloaks Cutaway
jackets Fedora Swallowtail Jackets Modern Formalwear
Slide 45
1890 - 1911
Slide 46
Different sports attire. Named after Englands King Edward More
modern. Flattened form. Invention of film
Slide 47
Swimsuits Idealized womanhood Soft and romantic Long tight
skirts Cute button-up boots
Slide 48
Tuxedo Suits Heeled modern leather shoes Stovepipe
trousers
