Building Hints and Suggestions For Your Victor .Building Hints and Suggestions For Your Victor

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  • Building Hints and Suggestions

    For Your

    Victor Soling 1 Meter


    Curtis Wright

    for the

    Stowe Yacht Club

    Written 1988 Revised June 1998

    Edited and updated May 2003 by Paul and Diane Fixx

  • Building Hints and Suggestions For Your Victor Soling 1 Meter

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    {This document was originally written in 1988 and refers to the 9/87 Victor instructions. There have been more than a few changes to the kit in the last 15 years. Ive made notes where I know there are differences between those plans and the current 7/15/97 plans. There may be others that Im not aware of and Id be happy to have your suggestions with any updates.. The drawings included with this document were scanned with as much resolution as possible, but we only had copies of copies since the originals have been lost in the sands of time. ed.} Having built a fair number of Victor Soling 1 Meter kits for our fleet, we have found some short cuts and ways to go about building these boats that might be of help to you. We have also found that some minor alterations and additions can be done in the original building stages which will eliminate fixing things later on when the boat is fully assembled and its harder to do. Youll also find some explanations of things that, within a short time, will seem very basic. We think so too, but we hear a lot of these questions asked by the first time, relatively new to radio control builder and think they may be of help to you. First of all, read the plans several times. Take your time and make sure you understand thoroughly what steps are to be taken. The plans are surprisingly well written, but some items presume that the builder has experience that you may not. THE CRADLE Before you even start to build the boat, you have to realize that somewhere along the way youre going to need a cradle both to support the boat while you are building it and to help when carrying it. Joseph Mueller of Stowe, Vermont has designed a cradle that is easily built. Joes drawing of the cradle is shown in Figure 1. Its suggested you build the cradle early so you have something to hold the boat while you are working on it {Full size templates are attached as Appendix A, or can be downloaded from the Stowe Yacht Club at ed.}

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    Figure 1 - Cradle

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    THE KEEL Construction of the keel is a four step assembly process. 1. Attach the keel post to one of the keel halves using five minute epoxy available

    from any hardware store. Before you start this gluing process, make sure you thoroughly rough up the area of the keel where the post is to be bonded with course sand paper. Make sure the post is aligned according to the plans and then clamp it firmly. Even though youre using 5 min. epoxy, its smart to let the assembly cure overnight.

    Figure 2 - Keel Assembly

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    {Before beginning to assemble the keel it is a good idea to lightly sand both halves on a full sheet of sandpaper glued to a flat board - 150 or 220 grit works well. This will ensure that the halves mate perfectly. ed}

    2. Bond the other side of the keel to the post. Rough this keel half the same way you

    did the first before bonding, and again, clamp firmly. The most important part in this step is to make sure that the front, bottom and trailing edges of the keel are aligned exactly. The best way to do this is to smear the epoxy to the keel post, and then align all three sides of the keel halves and tape them together with masking tape, and then clamp. Its best to let this sit over night.

    3. Now you have to glue the keel halves together. Most hardware stores stock glue for plastic models and thats what you want to use. As glue actually melts the plastic and welds the two pieces being attached. Starting at the top, use a screw driver to separate the halves a little bit so that you can squeeze a bead of glue all around where the two halves meet. You have to glue a little bit, move the screw driver, glue a little bit, move the screw driver, etc., until youve gone completely around the keel. Once youve finished, use lots of pieces of masking tape all around to make sure that the two halves are sealed.

    4. Now youre ready to pour the lead shot and epoxy to fill the keel. IMPORTANT Up here were using only 6 pounds of shot NOT 6 pounds as recommended by Victor. THIS IS A DEPARTURE FROM WHAT IS INDICATED ON THE PLANS. Shot is available at most gun shops. If you can find #8 or #9 shot use it because its smaller and compacts better. Most of us have used #6.

    {It is getting harder to find the lead shot, but it is available from Victor if all else fails. Rumor has it that the 6 pound figure here came about because it was not possible to get 3 boats worth of lead from a 25 pound bag of shot. The 4 ounce difference probably comes about because adding the reinforcements included in this document will add some weight, but probably not 4 ounces. Painting the hull can add 2 or 3 ounces more though. If you are a weight weenie you will want a boat as close to 10 pounds as you can get it. You may want to assemble all of your parts and weight them, making allowance for adhesives, BEFORE you pour the keel. ed.}

    You should also understand something about epoxy. Epoxy is a thermosetting plastic. When the resin and the catalyst are mixed, a chemical reaction takes place which changes the liquid to a solid. The faster the reaction takes place, the more heat is built up. If you use a fast setting resin catalyst combination, you can build up so much heat you can melt and deform the keel halves youre filling. We

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    have found that the WEST SYSTEM with the slow curing hardener gives us no over heating problems. West epoxy can be found in any marine supply store.

    OK, now youve got this quart can of epoxy and a can of catalyst. You dont need it all, and they tell you to mix it five to one. Get a thin stick of wood and measure from the end and draw a line. 2 above that line (5 times ) draw another line. I use a normal size vegetable can and pour in catalyst to the first line, then resin to the second. This gives you just a little more epoxy than you need. Make sure to mix very well. Now you can bend the can to form a V so you can pour from the can directly into the keel. {Ive found that a small funnel can be helpful here. ed.}

    Pour about cup of the mixed resin into the keel and slosh it around to wet the inside and bottom. Block the keel so it stands flat on its bottom and pour in about cup of the shot. Keep alternating shot and epoxy and shot until youve used up the shot. You also want to make your pours in front and in back of the keel post. Cut a coat hanger wire so you can poke and tamp the shot down and to get it fairly level. If it isnt quite level, its better to have a little more shot in the front of the keel than in the back. Now all you have to do is fill the keel to the top with the rest of the epoxy. A lot of air bubbles are going to come up as the epoxy fills the voids between the shot so when you look at the thing the next day youll see that you have about more to fill. Make a small amount of epoxy using 5 teaspoons to 1 to fill that last .

    Oh goody Now youve got a keel Its a lot heavier than you thought it would be, isnt it?

    {Victor will build you a complete keel if you ask them to and completely eliminate all the fun youre going to have here. ed.}

    THE HULL FORWARD BULKHEAD & KEEL BOX ASSMBLY OK, heres where you build for performance on the water. The keel has to be straight up and down. It has to be aligned axially with the center line of the boat, and it has to be in the right fore and aft position. Pay attention now, it isnt all that hard. {Victor will build you a complete hull if you ask them to, but weve seen some that didnt line up quite as well as wed like. Its a good way to save a lot of time and maybe some aggravation if youre a first-time builder, or in a hurry. ed.}

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    1. See Figure 3 and build this part of the keel box first. Use five minute epoxy and clamp it, then wipe off any excess epoxy that seeps out of the joints or youll have to sand it off later.

    Figure 3 Keel Box

    {The current keel box is called the keel trunk on page 4 of the 7/97 Victor plans and looks different, but the hint about the Q-tip still applies. I recommend leaving the top plate off for now so that you can use the T-jig for alignment of the keel box as described in step 6 of this section. Many of us are permanently mounting the keel with epoxy. The top plate can be added when you do that, or it can be eliminated entirely along with the bolt and wing nut. ed.}

    2. Notch the bulkhead lip as shown in the keel installation instructions on the first

    page of the Victor plans. {This is shown on page 6 of the 7/97 Victor plans. ed.} 3. Experience has shown us that there is a minor weakness where the forward

    bulkhead supports the deck. Figure 4 illustrates the problem.

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    Figure 4 Forward Bulkhead Weakness at Mast Step

    This bending problem is difficult to remedy once the deck is on, so on all the boats Ive built since my first, I make, and add the piece shown in Figure 5. It also e