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Budapest travel guide

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English travel guide for Budapest, Hungary's capital

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Page 1: Budapest travel guide
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It is my greatest pleasure to welcome you to Budapest, a city endowed with a rich historyand unique cultural heritage. I am certain that you, too, will be captivated by its alluringatmosphere, unrivalled panoramas and the vitality of its everyday life!

Tourism has grown to the point where today it is one of the most dynamically developingbranches of the economy in the capital; annually close on 6 million visitors come for thewonderful and unforgettable experience that is Budapest.

Virtually every international hotel chain has a presence here, and indeed new hotels arebeing built every year to match the explosive rise in the number of leisure and entertainmentcentres, fashionable and classical restaurants, shopping malls, new museums, culturalinstitutions... wherever one goes, wherever one looks, the scene is one of dynamism andenergetic development.

Take a stroll around our city and you’ll come across the remains of fortresses andbuildings from Roman times, still functioning Turkish baths, the heritages of the Gothic andBaroque ages, and superb Art Nouveau (Secession) architecture.

A walk around the streets and squares of Budapest is sufficient proof that despite spectaculardevelopment the city has preserved its old charm and magic. The pleasing harmony of differentarchitectural styles and superb structures, the cafés, spas, baths, the gastronomy and culturecombined with the legendary hospitality of the locals blend together to provide a very specialtravel experience, one which keeps bringing visitors back year after year.

Did you know, for instance, that Budapest has Europe’s largest parliament, the largestfunctioning synagogue, and the continent’s first underground railway? Budapest, which canboast not one but two UNESCO World Heritage sites, is the only capital city in the world withclose on 100 thermal springs and 12 medicinal baths within its boundary, where 19 milliongallons of thermal water rise to the surface each day!

Besides the hugely diverse cultural life of the city, and the events and festivals attracting peoplefrom all corners of the world, tourists of all ages will find a wealth of great music and culturalprogrammes in the entertainment and restaurant districts, too, because the music performed inpubs and cafés represents an alternative to the repertoires of the Opera House, Operetta Theatre,Academy of Music, Palace of Arts and the many beautifully restored local theatres.

As I have said, it is my great pleasure to personally welcome you to our city, and I warmlycommend this publication to you, which after careful preparation we put together to allow youto discover the very best in Budapest!

DEAR Readers!

László FeketeManaging Director

Tourism Office of Budapest

Tourinform Main office – Police info office1052 Budapest, Sütô utca 2 (at Deák tér) ≥ (+36-1)[email protected]ó 8 am-8 pm

Teréz körút1061 Budapest, Teréz körút 2–4.≥ (+36-1)322-4098¥ (+36-1)[email protected]ó Mon–Fri: 10 am–6 pm

Buda Castle1014 Budapest, Szentháromság tér ≥ (+36-1)488-0475

¥ (+36-1)[email protected]ó 9 am–7 pm

Ferihegy – terminal 11185 Budapest, Ferihegy Airport Terminal 1 ≥ (+36-1)[email protected]ó 9 am–10 pm

Ferihegy – terminal 2A1185 Budapest, Ferihegy Airport Terminal 2A, arrivals ≥ (+36-1)[email protected]ó 9.30 am–9.30 pm

Ferihegy – terminal 2B1185 Budapest, Ferihegy Airport Terminal 2B, arrivals≥ (+36-1)438-8080 [email protected]ó 9.30 am–9.30 pm

INFORMATION offices

Nonstop information Tourinform call centre (24 hours): ≥ (+36-1)438-8080Tourinform hotline (24 hours): ≥ (+36-30)30-30-600 from abroad,(06-80)630-800 from HungaryInternet: www.hungarytourism.hu¥ (+36-1)488-8661E-mail: [email protected]

BTH Budapesti Turisztikai Szolgáltató Kht. (Tourism Office of Budapest) μ H–1364 Budapest Pf. 215 • ≥ (+36-1)266-0479 • ¥ (+36-1)266-7477

E-mail: [email protected] www.budapestinfo.hu

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Museums, Exhibition halls 5

Churches 13

Alternative Budapest, Antiques road show 18

Sights, Sightseeing 23

Medicinal baths, Caves 36

Beyond Budapest 39

Music, Theatres, Events 42

Leisure 46

Shopping 50

Restaurants, Cafés 55

Handy information, City transport 61

Maps 16-17, 57, 62, 67

« Tram« Suburban

railwayç Busë Trolleybus1 Metro 12 Metro 23 Metro 3≥ Phone number¥ Faxó Opening hours

% Admission

budapest-card.com

culturalbudapest.com

A1 Map coordinate

�1 Site of museumon map

�1 Site of bath,cave on map

Legend

PUBLISHER: Tourism Office of Budapestthe official tourism marketing organization of

BudapestPUBLICATION MANAGER: László Paszternák

The project has been funded by the „Target Appropriation for Tourism”.

© All rights reserved

Edited by Turizmus Kft.EDITOR: Brigitta Vajk • DESIGN: Kuszkó Bt., KAtypo Bt.

TRANSLATION: CHFI Bt.COVER: Future Card Stúdió • Maps: Topográf

PHOTOS: Tourism Office of Budapest, Turizmus Kft. and Soho Hotel photo archives

The publisher does not accept responsibility fordamages arising from any changes in information

contained in this publication. Publication closed: November 2008

PRINTING: Oláh Nyomdaipari Kft.

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Page 5: Budapest travel guide

MUSEUMSexhibition halls

Most museums are closed on Monday.Admission charges show the lowest

and highest rates. There may be severalvariations between these two extremes,

from student tickets to group rates. Prices validto the end of 2008;

admission charges are likely to increase in 2009.With Budapest Card, you can visit

the main museums in Budapest for considerably less!

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Ludwig Museum Museum of Contemporary Art

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Aquincum Museum and Ruins �1 E1III., Szentendrei út 135–139 ≥ 454-0438 www.btm.huó April 15–October 31: archeological park 9 am–5 pm;exhibits 10 am–5 pm; closed Mon. (November 1–April 14:Closed for the winter season) One of the largest archeological parks in Hungary looks back ona past of more than 110 years. The ruins area puts on displayaround one quarter of the Civil Town of Aquincum with its mostcharacteristic public buildings and dozens of private houses.These building remains recall the heyday of the provincial capital,the town-structure from AD 2nd–3rd century. Chronoscopesinstalled in the park provide a glimpse into the way the buildingsof the town originally appeared. Visitors can see Roman periodobjects from the territory of Budapest in the permanent andtemporary exhibitions. Permanent exhibition: Rome in Aquincum« from Batthyány Square towards Szentendreç 34, 134, 106 % HUF 200–1500

Budapest History Museum Castle Museum �2 B3I., Szent György tér 2 ≥ 487-8800 www.btm.hu ó 10 am–6 pm (10 am–4 pm between 1 Nov.and 28 Feb.), closed Tue except 16 May–15 SeptCollection of archaeological finds in Budapest. Budapest inthe Middle Ages: development of settlements from the Romanage to the 13th century. The medieval Buda royal palace:collection of original objects, seals, glassware, weapons,tombstones. Gothic sculpture from the royal palace. Budapestin modern times: historical moments in the life of a metropolis. ç 5, 16, 178, « 18 % HUF 550–1600

Museum and Institute of Military History �3 A3 I., Tóth Árpád sétány 40 ≥ 325-1651 www.militaria.huó Tue–Sun: 10 am–6 pm (10 am–4 pm between 1October and 31 March)A rich collection of weapons from the days before the Turkishwars to the 20th century. Collection of uniforms, flags, maps,ammunition and 28,000 coins. Memories of pilots whoemigrated after the Second World War. The exhibition “ThirteenDays, about the 1956 Revolution”, is well worth viewing. ç 16A % free

Ferenc Hopp Museum of Eastern Asiatic Art �4 C2 VI., Andrássy út 103 ≥ 322-8476 ww.hoppmuzeum.hu ó Tue–Sun: 10 am–6 pm The collection based on 19th century art collector FerencHopp’s collection of 4000 items of East Asian, and primarilyJapanese and Chinese, objects today has around 20,000art objects. Among the pieces on display in the artcollector’s former house are important Japanese medievalart items and Chinese bronzes and porcelain-ware. Thepermanent exhibition is located in the Ráth György Museum.1 Bajza utca ë 70, 78 % HUF 400–2300

Museum of Applied Art �5 C4IX., Üllôi út 33–37 ≥ 456-5100 www.imm.hu ó Tue: 2–6 pm,Wed, Fri–Sun: 10 am–6 pm, Thur: 10 am– 10 pmOne of the most attractive sights in the capital, designedby Ödön Lechner and Gyula Pártos, this Art Nouveaubuilding is roofed in Zsolnay ceramic tiles. 3 Ferenc körút « 4, 6 % HUF 800–1500

Kassák Lajos Memorial Museum �6 B1 III., Fô tér 1 ≥ 368-7021 ó Tue–Sun: 10 am–5 pmExhibition in the former Zichy Mansion on the art of Lajos Kassák,leading artist of Hungarian avant-garde, poetry, painting andliterary editor. The museum’s new permanent exhibition: 20th

century Hungarian art, from the legacies of Hungarian authors. ç 206, 86 « 1 « Árpád híd % HUF 150–300

Kiscell Museum �7 A1III., Kiscelli utca 108 ≥ 388-8560 www.btm.huó Tue–Sun: 10 am–6 pm (1 November–31 March: 10 am–4 pm)The museum building was constructed for the Trinitarian orderin the 18th century, while it was later transformed into a Baroquemansion and even served as a hospital. Today it is one of themuseums of Budapest in perhaps the most picturesque oflocations, surrounded by woods at the foot of the Óbuda Hills.Its exhibitions embrace two major areas of collections from theBudapest History Museum: modern urban history, and the fineart collection of the Municipal Gallery. « 17 ç 260, 165 % HUF 250–700

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Museum of Applied Art Memento Park

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Ludwig Museum Museum of Contemporary Art �8 C4IX., Komor Marcell u. 1 ≥ 555-3444 www.ludwigmuseum.huó Tue–Sun: 10 am–8 pm (last Saturday in the month: 10am–10 pm) The Hungarian contemporary art collection of Cologne artcollector couple Irene and Peter Ludwig. A visit providesan overview of the past 50 years of universal art, andcontemporary Hungarian art from the last 10 years. « 1, 2, 24 ç 23, 54, 103 « Csepel, Ráckeve % HUF 500–3000

Transport Museum �9 D2XIV., Városligeti körút 11 ≥ 273-3840 www.km.iif.hu ó Tue–Fri: 10 am–5 pm,Sat–Sun: 10 am–6 pm (closes one hour earlier fromOctober to May) One of Europe’s oldest transport history collections. Itsmodel railway material is world famous. Permanentexhibitions over 8,000 square metres include: 100 yearsand today, 100 years of Hungarian motoring; A century ofHungarian state shipping; History of Motoring; History ofsteam locomotion; History of urban transport. « 1 ë 70, 72, 74 ç 7, 173E % HUF 200–1200

Hungarian National Gallery �10 B3I., Szent György tér 2 ≥ 201-9082 ó Tue–Sun: 10 am–6 pmThe collection of 10,000 art objects sited in wings A, B, Cand D of Buda Castle Palace covers the period from thefoundation of the state to the present day. Permanentexhibitions: Medieval and Renaissance lapidarium; Gothicwood carvings and tableaux; Late Gothic winged altars;Renaissance and Baroque art; Habsburg palatine crypt;19th century painting (Gyula Benczúr, Mihály Munkácsy,Viktor Madarász, Pál Szinyei Merse) and sculpture (IstvánFerenczy, Miklós Izsó); 20th century painting (JózsefRippl-Rónai, Tivadar Csontváry Kosztka, Béla Czóbel) andsculpture (Béni Ferenczy, Ferenc Medgyessy). ç 5, 16, 178, « 18 % HUF 400–800 (permanent exhibition)

Hungarian National Museum �11 C3VIII., Múzeum körút 14–16 ≥ 338-2122 www.hnm.huó Tue–Sun: 10 am–6 pm (10 am–5 pm from November to May)The museum (founded in 1802) was based on thenumismatic, book and document collections of CountFerenc Széchényi, and the number of art objects nowexceeds one million. The huge national collection hasoccupied its present site, a neo-Classical buildingdesigned by Mihály Pollack, since 1846. Permanentexhibitions: History of Hungary from the foundation of thestate to 1990; Lapidarium-Roman stone finds. 3 Kálvin tér ç 15, 9 % HUF 500–2000

Hungarian Natural History Museum �12 D4VIII., Ludovika tér 2–6 ≥ 210-1085 www.nhmus.hu ó 10 am–6 pm, closed Tue.This imposing neo-Classical building together with thecourtyard has hosted the museum’s mineral and rockcollection since 1995. Permanent exhibitions: Man andnature in Hungary; Treasures from the mineral collection;Time track-rock park in front of the museum.3 Nagyvárad tér « 24 % HUF 300–2000

Memento Park �13 E2XXII., Balatoni út (main road No. 7) – corner of SzabadkaiStreet ≥ 424-7500 www.mementopark.huó daily from 10 am until duskStepping into this museum takes one back to the dayswhen half of Europe was ruled by communism. When theIron Curtain fell Soviet-style propaganda sculptures weredestroyed en masse in other countries of East Europe, butthe Memento Park in Budapest preserved around 40 majorworks of the time that used to stand in public areas. Thereare statues of Lenin, Marx and Engels, gigantic memorialsand allegorical works depicting Soviet soldiers andcommunist heroes. The Stalin tribune, the barracksexhibition and a film all serve to give a real sense of lifebehind the Iron Curtain. ç 150 % HUF 300–2000

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Ludwig Museum Museum of Contemporary Art Hungarian National Museum

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Art Gallery �14 C2XIV., Dózsa György út 37 (Heroes’ Square) ≥ 460-7000 www.mucsarnok.huó Tue, Wed, Fri–Sun: 10 am–6 pm, Thur: midday–8 pmThe largest exhibition gallery in the country, a defining neo-Classical structure in Heroes’ Square. It does not have its owncollection, but its regular temporary exhibitions feature mainlythe contemporary arts, and the works of artistic groups. 1 Hôsök tere ç 20, 30, 105 ë 75, 79 % HUF400–1200

Nagytétény Mansion Museum �15 E2XXII., Kastélypark utca 9–1 ≥ 207-0005/4 www.nagytetenyi.huó Tue–Sun: 10 am–6 pmThe permanent collection of this attractive Baroquemansion includes over 300 items of furniture and suites in

28 rooms, plus tile stoves, chandeliers, carpets, tapestries,ceramics, glassware and gold- and silversmiths works.

Traditional exhibitions and events organized every year:Ages – Flowers; Secret Drawers in Furniture; Antiquity Fairin Centaur Garden; Christmas in the Castle. ç 33 % HUF 400–1600

Museum of Ethnography �16 B2V., Kossuth tér 12 ≥ 473-2400 www.neprajz.huó Tue–Sun: 10 am–6 pmOne of Europe’s largest specialist museums with around139,000 Hungarian and 53,000 international art objects. Theformer royal court, a magnificent building sited oppositeParliament, combines Renaissance, Baroque and neo-Classical elements. Permanent exhibitions: Traditional cultureof the Hungarian people; From primitive societies to civilization. « 2 2 Kossuth Lajos tér ë 70, 78 % HUF 400–800

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Gallery 2B C4IX., Ráday utca 47 ≥ 215-4899www.pipacs.hu/2b/2b.htmló Mon–Fri: 2–6 pm, Sat: 10 am–2 pm3 Kálvin tér « 47, 49 (tramsubstitute) ç 9 % free

Ateliers Pro Arts/A.P.A! C3VIII., Horánszky utca 5 ≥ 486-2378www.ateliers.hu ó Tue–Fri: 2–7 pm,Sat: 11 am–6 pm3 Kálvin tér « 4, 6, 47, 49 (tramsubstitute) ç 9 % free

Gallery Boulevard & BrezsnyevB3VII., Király u. 39–43–46 ≥ 445-778www.bbgaleria.hu ó Mon–Fri: 10 am–8 pm1 2 3 Deák tér « 47, 49 (tram substitute) % free

Gallery Godot B3VII., Madách Imre út 8

≥ 322-5272 www.godot.huó Tue–Fri: 10 am–6 pm, Sat: 10 am–1 pm1 2 3 Deák tér « 47, 49 (tramsubstitute) % free

KOGArt House (Kovács GáborArt Foundation) C2VI., Andrássy út 112 ≥ 354-3820www.kogart.hu ó 10 am–6 pm 1 Bajza utca % HUF 200–800

Gallery Liget D2XIV., Ajtósi D. sor 5 www.ligetgaleria.c3.huó Wed–Mon: 2–6 pmë 75, 79 ç 20, 30, 105 % free

Gallery Lumen C4VIII., Mikszáth Kálmán tér 2www.photolumen.hu ó Mon–Fri: 8.30am–7 pm, Sat: 10 am–6 pm3 Kálvin tér « 47, 49 (tramsubstitute), ç 9 % free

Gallery Stúdió C3VII., Rottenbiller utca 35 ≥ 342-5380, (+36 70) 324-4748http://studio.c3.hu/studio_galeria/galeria_magyar/index.html ó Tue–Fri: 4–8 pm, Sat: 12 am–4 pmç 7, 173, 178 2 Keleti pu. % free

Trafó Gallery House ofContemporary Arts C4IX., Liliom utca 41 ≥ 456-2040 www.trafo.huó Tue–Sun: 4–8 pm, and 1 hourbefore and after programmes in themain hall « 4, 6 3 Ferenc körút % free

Gallery Várfok A3I., Várfok utca 11, 14 ≥ 213-5155www.varfok-galeria.huó Tue–Sat: 11 am–6 pm2 Moszkva tér « 4, 6 % free

CONTEMPORARY arts centres

Hungarian Natural History Museum

Nagytétény Mansion Museum

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Óbuda Museum �17 B1III., Fô tér 1 ≥ 250-1020 ó Tue–Sun: 10 am–5 pm (free on the first Saturday in everymonth)The collection in the Zichy Mansion includes historicaldocuments and relics of the industrial history of Óbudaand surroundings, running from Roman times to the 20thcentury. One can view Art Nouveau interiors and toy andgame collections in its permanent exhibitions, as well aswrought-iron decorative work from old Óbuda houses. « Árpád híd « 1 ç 206, 86, 106 % HUF 200–300

Museum of Fine Arts �18 C2XIV., Dózsa György út 41 (Heroes’ Square) ≥ 469-7100 www.szepmuveszeti.huó Tue–Sun: 10 am–5.30 pmThe core of the museum material derived from the superbcollection of paintings formed by the Esterházys and donatedin the 1870s. The grandiose neo-Classical building in Heroes’Square has housed the collection (now around 100,000 artworks) since 1906. The museum has a broad collection offoreign art from Antiquity to the present day. In addition to theEgyptian, Greek and Roman collections, the Italian collection,which gives a comprehensive overview of Italian schools ofpainting from the 13th to the 18th century, is very rich. Thejewels of the Spanish collection are seven El Greco works, and

among 19–20th century masterworks French painting is mostcomprehensively represented.1 Hôsök tere ë 75, 79 ç 20, 30, 105 % HUF 600–3200

Vasarely Museum �19 B1III., Szentlélek tér 6 ≥ 388-7551 www.vasarely.tvn.huó Tue–Sun: 10 am–7.30 pmThe museum is named after Hungarian-born painter GyôzôVásárhelyi who moved to Paris in 1930 to work, and who asVictor Vasarely gained world fame as the founder of theop-art movement. His pictures use sharp colours, geo-metric forms and optical illusions. The exhibition materialencompassing the entire oeuvre of the artist is selectedfrom 400 works bequeathed to the Museum of Fine Arts. « Árpád híd « 1 ç 206, 86, 106 % free

Jewish Museum �20 C3VII., Dohány u. 2 ≥342-8949 óSun–Thur: 10 am–5 pm, Fri: 10 am–2 pmThe museum, built in fitting style and attached to theuniquely beautiful Dohány Street Synagogue, has anunparalleled collection of Judaica. Permanent exhibitions:Devotional objects for Jewish celebrations; Everydayobjects; History of the Hungarian Holocaust. ë 74 « 47, 49 (tram substitute) 2 Astoria % 750–2600 (The price of admission includes entry tothe museum and synagogue)

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Arany Sas (Golden Eagle)

Pharmacy Museum Citadel

Arany Sas (Golden Eagle) Pharmacy Museum A3I., Tárnok utca 18 ≥ 375-9772www.semmelweis.museum.huó Tue–Sun: 10.30 am–5.30 pm (1 Nov–15 March: 10.30 am–4 pm)ç 16 % HUF 350–700

Gizi Bajor Museum of Actors and Actresses E1 XII., Stromfeld Aurél utca 16

≥ 356-4294 ó Thur–Fri: 2–6 pm,Sat–Sun: 10 am–6 pmç 102, 105 « 59 % HUF 400–800

Béla Bartók Memorial House E1II., Csalán út 29 ≥ 394-4472 ó Tue–Sun: 10 am–5 pmwww.bartokmuseum.huç 5 (to the Pasaréti Squareterminus), 29 % HUF 500–800

Stamp Museum C3VII., Hársfa utca 47 ≥ 341-5526 www.belyegmuzeum.huó Tue–Sun: 10 am–6 pm (1 Novem-ber–31 March: 10 am–4 pm)« 4, 6 ë 74 % HUF 250–1000

Bible Museum C4IX., Ráday utca 28 ≥ 217-6321 ó Tue–Sun: 10 am–5 pm 3 Kálvin tér ç 15 % free

Other museums, exhibition halls, galleries

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Budapest Gallery B3V., Szabadsajtó utca 5 ≥ 318-8097ó Tue–Sun: 10 am–6 pm« 2 ç 5, 8, 7 3 Ferenciek tere% HUF 300–600

Citadel B4XI., Gellérthegy, Citadella sétány ≥ 466-5794 www.citadella.huó 9 am–8 pm Interior courtyard: Past and Present ofGellért Hill; St. Gellért Memorial Park;Waxworks 1944, bunker and exhibitionç 27 « 18, 19, 41, 47, 49, 118% HUF 1200

Ernst Museum B3VI., Nagymezô utca 8 ≥ 341-4355www.ernstmuzeum.huó Tue–Sun: 11 am–7 pm« 4, 6 (Oktogon) 1 Opera ë 70, 78% HUF 300–1200

Underground Railway Museum B2V., Deák Square-pedestrian underpass ≥ 461-6500 ó Tue–Sun: 10 am–5 pm123 Deák tér « 47, 49 ç 9, 16,105 % cost of a tram ticket (HUF 270)

Military Baths MuseumIII., Flórián tér 3–5 (in the pedestriansubway) ≥ 454-0438 www.btm.huó 30 15 Apr–1 May: Tue– Sun: 10 am–5pm (by prior arrangement); 1 May–30 Sept.:Tue–Sun: 10 am–6 pm; 1 Oct–14 April:Tue–Sun: 10 am–5 pmç 206, 34, 134, 86, 106 « 1 % free

Holocaust Memorial Centre C4IX., Páva utca 39 ≥ 455-3320, 455-3333 www.hdke.huó Tue–Sun: 10 am–6 pm« 4, 6, 21, 21A 3 Ferenc körút % HUF 1000

Zoltán Kodály Memorial Museum and Archives C2VI., Kodály körönd 1 ≥ 352-7106www.kodaly-inst.hu ó Wed: 10 am–4 pm,Thur–Sat: 10 am–6 pm, Sun: 10 am–2 pm 1 Kodály körönd % HUF 120–230, free on Sunday

Ferenc Liszt Memorial Museumand Research Centre C3VI., Vörösmarty utca 35 ≥ 322-9804 www.lisztmuseum.hu

ó Mon–Fri: 10 am–6 pm, Sat: 9 am–5 pm« 4, 6 1 Vörösmarty utca % HUF 300–600

Medieval Jewish Prayer House A3I., Táncsics Mihály utca 26 ≥ 225-7816 www.btm.huó 1 May–31 October: Tue–Sun: 10am–6 pmç 16A, 16 % HUF 200–450

Kresz Géza Ambulance Museum B2V., Markó utca 22 ≥ 374-4008 ó Mon–Sat.: 8 am–2 pm3 Nyugati tér « 4, 6 % HUF 200–300

Hungarian Electrical Engineering Museum B3 VII., Kazinczy utca 21 ≥ 322-0472www.emuseum.hu ó Tue–Fri: 11am–5 pm, Sat: 9 am–4 pm 2 Blaha Lujza tér ë 74 ç 178,233E % HUF 200–400

Hungarian House of Photographers(Mai Manó Ház) B3 VI., Nagymezô utca 20 ≥ 473-2666 www.maimano.huó Mon–Fri: 2–7 pm, Sat, Sun andholidays: 11 am–7 pmë 70, 78 1 Opera « 4, 6 (Oktogon)% HUF 300–700

Museum of HungarianCommerce and Catering B3V., Szent István tér 15 ≥ 375-6249ó 11 am–7 pm, closed Tuesday1 Bajcsy-Zsilinszky út, 23 Deák tér% HUF 300–600

Hungarian National TelevisionMuseum of the Technical andProgramming TV B3V., Október 6 u. 9 ≥ 200-8782 ó Tue: 10 am–2 pm, Thur: 2–6 pm 123Deák tér ç15, 16, 105 % free

Marzipan Museum A3Budapest, Hess András tér 1–3 ≥ 889-6861 www.szabomarcipan.huAn international permanent confectioneryexhibition in the Hilton next to Fisher-man’s Bastion and Matthias Church. ç 16, 16A % HUF 400

Agricultural Museum C2XIV., City Park, Vajdahunyad Castle ≥ 422-0765 www.mezogazdasagimuzeum.huó Tue–Sun.: 10 am–5 pmç 20, 30, 105 1 Széchenyi fürdô ë 70, 72, 79 % HUF 250–500

Pál Molnár-C. Studio Museum A4XI., Ménesi út 65 ≥ (+36-30)201-1073 May be visited by prior arrangement ç 27 « 61 % free

National Geological Museum D3XIV., Stefánia út 14 ≥ 267-1427www.mafi.hu ó 8 Jan–21 Dec: Thur,Sat, Sun: 10 am–4 pm2 Népstadion ç 7 ë 75, 77 % HUF 150–400

Gallery of the Óbuda Society Circle B1III., Kiskorona u. 7 www.obudaitarsaskor.hu≥ 250-0288 ó Tue–Sun.: 2–6 pm « Árpád híd « 1 ç 206, 86, 106% HUF 50

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Medieval Jewish Prayer House

Agricultural Museum

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Foundry Museum E1II., Bem József utca 20 ≥ 201-4370 www.omm.huó Tue–Sun: 9 am–5 pmç 11, 60, 86 « 4, 6, 19, 41 2 Batthyány tér « Batthyány tér % HUF 200–400

Petôfi Literary Museum B3V., Károlyi Mihály utca 16 ≥ 317-3611 www.pim.huó Tue–Sun: 10 am–6 pm 3 Ferenciek tere ç 15 % HUF 180–700

Postal Museum B3VI., Andrássy út 3 ≥ 269-6838 www.postamuzeum.huó Tue–Sun: 10 am–6 pmç 105 1 Bajcsy-Zs. út 23 Deák tér% HUF 250–500

Ráth György Museum C2 VI., Városligeti fasor 12 ≥ 342-3916ó Tue–Sun: 10 am–6 pm1 Bajza utca ë 70, 78, 79 % HUF 200–400

Rátkay-Átlók Gallery E1XX., Klapka utca 48 ≥ 283-1779,284-7324 www.ratkay.huó Tue–Sat: 2–6 pm Endre Rátkay is a unique personalityin domestic fine art and an out-standing figure of contemporary Hun-garian painting. His permanent life-work exhibition in Pesterzsébet is alsoa trip into universal history and theworld of myths, it is a unique “profaneicon museum” of canvases revived

with “human drama” (Calendarium,Apocrph, Binominalis etc.). Workscreated between 1965–2000 arecharacterized by use of the montagetechnique in a surrealist format. ç 23, 59 « 52 % free

Museum of Crime C3VIII., Mosonyi utca 7 ≥ 477-2183 ó Tue–Sun: 9 am–5 pmç 7, 78 2 Keleti pu. « 24 ë 81, 76% free

Miksa Róth Memorial House C3VII., Nefelejcs utca 26 ≥ 341-6789www.rothmuzeum.hu ó Tue–Sun: 2–6 pm ç 7, 173, 178 2 Keleti pályaudvar% HUF 250–500

Semmelweis Museum of Medical History A3I., Apród utca 1–3 ≥ 201-1577www.semmelweis.museum.huó Tue– Sun: 10.30 am–6 pm (1 November– 14 March: Tue–Sun:10.30 am–4 pm)ç 5, 178, 86 « 18, 19, 41 % HUF 350–700

Sport Museum C2XIV., Dózsa Gy. út 1–3 ≥ 469-5010, 251-1222www.sportmuzeum.huó Tue–Thur, Sat–Sun: 10 am–4 pmç 7, 173 % HUF 50–100

Telephone Museum A3I., Úri utca 49 ≥ 201-8188 ó Tue–Sun: 10 am–4 pmç 16 % HUF 250–500

House of Terror Museum C3VI., Andrássy út 60 ≥ 374-2600www.terrorhaza.huó Tue–Fri: 10 am–6 pm, Sat–Sun: 10am–7.30 pm1 Oktogon « 4, 6 % HUF 750– 1500 (Internationalstudent card required)

Textile Museum B1III., Lajos utca 136–138 ≥ 367-5910ó Mon–Thur: 9 am–4 pm, Fri–Sat: 9am–2 pm« Tímár utca ç 106, 86 % HUF 350–400

Fire Service Museum F1X., Martinovics tér 12 ≥ 261-3586ó Tue–Sat: 9 am–4 pm Sun: 9 am–1 pmç 9, 32, 62 « 3, 28 % free

Railway History Park D1XIV., Tatai út 95. ≥ 450-1497, 238-0558www.vasuttortenetipark.huó 15–28 Mar: 10 am–3 pm, 29Mar–3 Nov: 10 am–6 pm, 4 Nov–14Dec: 10 am–3 pm, closed Mon.!ç 30 « 14 % HUF 300–2400

Varga Imre Collection E1 III., Laktanya utca 7 ≥ 250-0274 ó Tue–Sun: 10 am–6 pm « Árpád híd ç 106, 86 « 1% HUF 250–500

Flag Museum C3VIII., József körút 68 ≥ 334-0159 ó Tue–Fri: 12 am–5 pm« 4, 6 % free

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CHURCHESecclesiastical collections

The majority of churches in Budapest are built in Baroque or neo-Classical style,

but Romanesque, Gothic, Moorish or even Bauhaus examples

can also be found. Nearly all churches are open daily (no charge).

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Matthias Church

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Church of St. Elizabeth of the House of Árpád C3VII., Rózsák tere – open daily from 5 pm and duringservices Rózsák (Rose) Square and this historical church make upone of the true gems of the city. The Catholic church wasbuilt to the designs of Imre Steindl in neo-Gothic stylebetween 1893–1901. Its imposing spires rise 76 metresinto the air; a statue of St. Elizabeth adorns the crown of thetympanum. Renowned master craftsmen of the day suchas glass artist Miksa Róth and wood carver Mór Höltzlcontributed to the interior decoration. The compact parkwith beautiful rose garden surrounding the church is openfrom 7 am to 9 pm.ë 73, 76 ç 7, 173, 178

Inner City Franciscan Church B3V., Ferenciek tereOpen to visitors every dayIn the 13th century a monastery and church stood on thesite of the present-day church, while its current decorativeBaroque form was given in the 18th century. The frescoesspeak of the talent of Károly Lotz and Vilmos TardosKrenner. The Baroque main altar and the statues deco-rating the altar are particularly attractive. 3 Ferenciek tere

Inner City Parish Church B3V., Március 15. tér 2 ≥ 318-3108Open to visitors every day during church servicesThe oldest church in Pest, built in the 12th century inRomanesque style on the site of the grave of martyr BishopGellért. Nothing remains of the original church; over thecenturies it took on Gothic features, and during the 17thcentury it was used by the Turks as a mosque. Following afire in 1723 it was rebuilt in Baroque style, but the interiorhas neo-Classical features too. Main sights: Gothic chapel,neo-Gothic carved pulpit, 15th century Italian frescoes and20th century main altar. 3 Ferenciek tere « 2

Inner City Calvinist Church B4IX., Kálvin térOpen to visitors every dayBuilt in the 19th century in neo-Gothic style, its four-columnportico at the main entrance was built by József Hild. Theorgan loft and pulpit were also built to his designs. Thechurch has renowned stained glass windows designed bythe master artist Miksa Róth. The church treasurypreserves 17–18th century liturgical objects. ç 9, 15 3 Kálvin tér

Dohány Street Synagogue B3VII., Dohány utca 2 ≥ 413-5531ó Sun–Thur: 10 am–5.30 pm, Fri: 10 am–2.30 pm (1Nov–28 Feb: Sun–Thur: 10 am–3.30 pm, Fri: 10 am–1.30pm), Sat: closedThe glorious building in Byzantine-Moorish style isEurope’s largest synagogue. It was built by Viennesearchitect Ludwig Förster in the middle of the 19th century.One of Budapest’s most imposing historical monuments, itis faced in white and red brick, with a wealth of ceramicdecorative elements and two onion-dome towers. Themuseum has an unequalled collection of Jewish-relateditems from the Roman period to the 20th century. ë 74 2 Astoria % 1600–2900 (The price of admission includes entry tothe museum and synagogue)

Lutheran Church B3V., Deák tér, ≥ 483-2150ó Mon–Fri: 9 am–1 pm, National Lutheran Museum: Tue-Sun: 10 am–6 pmIn line with the Puritanism of Protestant churches thebuilding, a striking feature in Deák Square, is characte-rized by the typical simplicity of early neo-Classicism.Although the church was built between 1797–1808, its finalfacade with tympanum supported by Doric columns wascompleted only in 1856. Its superb acoustics make it apopular location for evening organ concerts. The adjacent

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St. Stephen’s Basilica Church of St. Michael Városmajor Church of Jesus’ Heart

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National Lutheran Museum has an interesting exhibitionrevealing the history of the Hungarian Reformation. ç 9 1 2 3 Deák tér

Matthias Church A3I., Szentháromság tér ≥ 355-5657 ó Mon–Sat: 9 am–5 pm, Sun: from 1 pm (after mass)Budapest’s most attractive and most famous Catholicchurch, which due to its unique siting largely defines theview of the Castle quarter as seen from the Pest side.

The royal cathedral, the Church of Our Lady, was built inseveral stages between the 13th and 15th centuries. Today’sneo-Gothic form was given by major reconstruction workdirected by Frigyes Schulek in 1896. Frescoes and stainedglass windows in the church were made by some of the age’sfinest artists (Károly Lotz, Mihály Zichy, Bertalan Székely).

The marvellous collection of the church includes thelapidarium, reliquary, coronation relics and the treasurywith goldsmith masterpieces and church textiles. (Museumclosed due to reconstruction.)ç 16A

Church of St. Anne B3I., Batthyány tér 7. ≥ 201-3404Open daily during services (6 am–6 pm). The Church of St. Anne is one of the finest Baroquestructures in Budapest. Construction started in 1740 to thedesigns of Kristóf Hamon and its completion in 1761 isassociated with Mátyás Nepauer. In the course of thesucceeding 200 years or so the church endured wars,floods and earthquakes, and in fact it was even suggestedthat it be demolished to make way for the construction ofthe metro. Happily this plan was never realized, and thechurch was restored between 1970–84.2 Batthyány tér, « 19

St. Stephen’s Basilica B3V., Szent István tér ≥ 317-2859 ó Mon–Fri: 9 am–4 pm,Sat: 9 am–1 pm, Sun: 1–4 pm; No charge.Weekday guided tours in English: Mon–Fri: 11 am, 2 pm,3.30 pm, Sat: 11 am (registration: 06-20/527-5329 mobiletelephone).

Guided tours including visit to the tower: adults HUF1600, students/pensioners: HUF 900.

Admission to the tower for a 360º panorama of the city:adults HUF 500, students/pensioners: HUF 400.The largest church in Budapest. Its 96-metre-high domeaffords a view over virtually the entire city. Building startedin 1851, and then in 1867 the work was taken over byMiklós Ybl, the greatest architect of the day, and finallyconcluded in 1905 by József Kauser. The neo-Classicalbuilding holds the greatest reliquary of the Hungarianpeople: the mummified arm, the Holy Right, of King St.Stephen, after whom the basilica is named. Among thechurch’s famous works of art are sculptures by AlajosStróbl, and a painting by Gyula Benczúr: St. Stephendedicating the country to the Virgin Mary. 1 Bajcsy-Zsilinszky út 2 3 Deák tér

Church of St. Michael B3V., Váci utca 47/B ≥ 337-8116 Open to visitors every dayThe history of this single-nave church founded by theDominican Order of friars dates back to the 1700s. TheDominicans were followed by the Paulines and the MaryWard Nuns, who opened and ran a girls school in theadjacent building until 1950. The high altar, the inlaid pewsand the furniture in the sacristy all date from the 1760s andare the work of Dominican friars. The high altar picturedepicts St. Dominic with the Virgin Mary who is passinghim a rosary.« 2 3 Ferenciek tere ç 7E, 7, 8, 173, 178, 102, 173E

Serbian Church B4V., Szerb utca 2–4 Open to visitors every dayBuilt by Serbian settlers in Baroque style in 1698. Its interioris patterned on the plan of Greek Catholic churches: awooden railing separates the women’s church from thechurch for men built one step lower down. Pictures in theiconostasis (1850) show Italian Renaissance influences.3 Kálvin tér

Városmajor Church of Jesus’ Heart A3XII., Csaba utca 5 Open to visitors every dayBudapest’s first Modernist church was built in the early1930s in Városmajor, Buda. Today it is a protectedmonument, and although it attracted scathing criticismfrom the contemporary press it is now considered one ofthe outstanding creations of 20th century ecclesiasticalarchitecture in the capital. The church built in Bauhausstyle is made up of several elements: the bell tower, themain church, and the lower church functioning as acommunity centre are linked by a semicircular arcade. 2 Moszkva tér « 4, 6

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Dohány Street Synagogue

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Motorway

Main road

Secondary road

RailwayIndustrial railway

Suburban train (HÉV)

Metro station

Built-up area, road,important building

Park, footpath

Pedestrian zone,pedestrian street

Vacant area, businessarea, steps

Sports ground

Airport

Boat station

Coach station

Information Office

World Heritage site

Church

Synagogue

Museum

Ruins

Monument from the Turkish period

Monument, statue

Theatre

Medicinal bath,swimming pool

Hotel

Market

Botanical garden

Parking

Multi-storey car parkUnderground garage

LEGEND

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ALTERNATIVEBudapest

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Connoisseurs of retro, contemporary or antiquestyles will find the city a place to indulge theirpassions. The choice of alternative pubs,contemporary galleries and antique shops isbroad indeed. Just make sure you leave time for everything...

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City centre alternative pubs (dives), retro venues andsummer terraces that have burgeoned over the past fewyears have filled the previously quiet downtown streetswith life. The choice is broad indeed; a kaleidoscope ofideas in a surprising range of locations are just waiting tobe discovered!

Alternative pubs started to take off 5-6 years ago, inbuildings awaiting renovation or listed for demolition in the VIand VII districts. The first such venues arose in thecourtyards of derelict residential blocks, and they looked asthough they had been furnished with the off-casts of theformer residents: one couldn’t find two matching seats,tables or sofas, but there was generally table football,popcorn and sometimes films and concerts. The best thingabout them was the feeling of being at home in the courtyardof a neighbour who just happened to open up a bar, whereall the residents joined in without any commitments, merelyfor a friendly evening and a chat. These dives migrated fromyear to year, depending on where they found suitablebuildings to receive this new art/social form. However, withtime the number of properties in which alternative pubscould be staged has gradually dropped, and today the“dive” milieu – a crucial element of which is retro – is moreassociated with fixed venues. Parallel with the success ofretro pubs it is no surprise to find that second-hand shopsare also doing a thriving business, although stuff from the70s and 80s can command astonishing prices.

Szimpla Kert (Garden) is an old hand in this niche, andthere are very few evenings when there is not a full house,despite the fact that it has expanded considerably over theyears. Not far off is Szóda, the place if you feel likedancing, while a trip in the direction of Blaha Lujza Squareleads to the roof of the retro Corvin Store and Corvintetô,with Jelen underneath. Another knot of pubs are positionedaround Klauzál Square. Sixtus, Ellátó and the inimitableFészek Club, which pre-dates alternative pubs by aconsiderable amount: it was a popular artists club in 1901.This Klauzál Square triangle is well worth an in-depth tour,rounded off, naturally, at the Fészek (the real scene thereonly starts up in the early morning hours).

Most pubs can now offer terraces, mainly positioned in

some cool, shaded spot, and some are just open in thesummer months, for instance, the Fecske Terrace on theroof of Komjádi Swimming Pool. This is a fine vantage pointfrom where to sip a beer and watch synchronized swim-mers or the water polo team in training. One of the bestknown of the terraces in the city is run by the Gödör Club.This cultural centre open all year round and located inErzsébet Square bombards the public with programmes,exhibitions, travelogues, fashion shows and concerts.Virtually every day there is a concert by some Hungarian orforeign performer, and during the summer high season it isnot rare to have a couple of concerts a day. Two otherleading venues in the Budapest music and cultural sceneare A38 Boat and Millenáris, offering music to suit all tastes.

The salt and pepper of contemporary art Trafó, which celebrates its 10th anniversary this year, is theundisputed bastion of contemporary arts in Budapest, amulticultural platform where world revolves around dance,theatre, fine arts, literature and music. Even the venue itselfis inspiring and thought provoking: an electricity substationdating from the last century, which was shut down andabandoned for four decades until being rediscovered by aFrench artistic group in the early 1990s. After this thederelict industrial building in the IX district was filled withlife, performances and concerts, then there was a brief lullin activity before the House of Contemporary Arts officiallyopened in 1998.

This is how the centre defines itself: “Trafó is an institution,a building, a place, a medium, an intellectual adventure, arisk and a possibility. Trafó is a place where emotion isallowed more space than usual alongside abstraction, aplace through which we can look out into the world.”

Contemporary galleriesIn the past 20 years the number of contemporary galleries inthe capital has rocketed. Not only do they liven up the city’scultural image, but they also form an integral part ofinternational art life that, during the communist regime, wascompletely or at least partially forbidden. It was amidst theseconditions that the great Liget Gallery rose virtually island-

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like, an independent gallery in which even during the periodof dictatorship there was natural democracy. The gallery,“the diplomatic hub for Central-Eastern Europeanprogressive artistic trends”, using its contacts that were evenmore extensive than those enjoyed by the major museums,gave display space to famous artists who otherwise wereofficially persona non grata or were prohibitively expensive.

Stúdió Gallery is the other defining gallery of contemporaryHungarian fine arts. From the 1980s onwards, the mosttalented of the younger generation have always received theopportunity to exhibit here. 2B Gallery in Ráday Street andGodot in Madách Street also regularly host exciting,experimental works. Collectors can select from among worksby the gallery’s artists in the tiny Godot cellar. Várfok Galleryis located not far from Moszkva Square in Várfok Street; it wasone of the first contemporary arts display centres established

by a private individual, and it actually also maintains multipleexhibition spaces (Várfok Room, XO Room) in this attractivestreet. With its strictly contemporary arts profile and value-centric attitude it attempts to promote the creation andappearance of new works on the contemporary arts market.

The Mikszáth Kálmán Square-based Lumen Gallerypresents – in its monthly rotating exhibitions – works byyoung artists who otherwise would have great difficultyfinding opportunities to stage independent shows.

The essence of Boulevard and Brezsnyev Gallery fillingseveral locations in Király Street is to create a meetingpoint, a “culture bazaar”, where not only can the visitor lookand buy (drawings, paintings, photographs, sculpture andjewellery) but also lounge around, listen to music and chat. (For list of contemporary art galleries see ‘Museums,galleries’ chapter, page 8)

CorvintetôVIII., Blaha Lujza tér 1–2 (on the roofof Corvin Store) ó 8 pm–5 amwww.corvinteto.com

Dürer-kertXIV., Ajtósi Dürer sor 19–21www.durerkert.com

EllátóVII., Klauzál tér 2 ó Mon.–Thur.: 6 pm–1 am, Fri.–Sat.:6 pm–4 am

Fecske TeraszIII., Árpád fejedelem útja 8 (on theroof of Komjádi Swimming Pool)≥ (+36-30)699-1641ó Sun.–Thur.: 11–2 am, Fri.–Sat.:11–4 amwww.fecske.net

Fészek KlubVII., Kertész utca 36 ≥ 342-6548ó Mon.–Sun.: 9 pm–6 am

Filter Otherground Music PubVII., Dohány utca 84ó Mon.–Sat.: from 7 pmwww.filterclub.hu

JelenVIII., Blaha Lujza tér 1–2 (Corvin Store) ó 10–2 am

KertemXIV., Olof Palme sétány 3.ó Mon.–Sun.: from 5 pm

Kiadó KávézóVI., Jókai tér 3≥ 331-1955

Könyvtár KlubVIII., Múzeum körút 4. ≥ 411-1738www.konyvtarklub.hu

KuplungVI., Király utca 46 www.kuplung.net

LámpásVII., Dob utca 15 ó from 5 pmwww.alampas.hu

Mumus Court Cultural CentreVII., Dob utca 18ó Mon.–Fri.: non–stop

PótkulcsVI., Csengery utca 65/Bó 8–5 am ≥ 269-1050www.potkulcs.hu

SirályVI., Király u. 50 ≥ (+36 20)992-7901ó Mon.–Fri.: 8 am–midnight,

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Alternative pubs, retro venues, terraces

Millenáris Szimpla Court

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Antiques Street packed with treasures Budapest’s street of galleries first began to coalesce just offMargaret Bridge around 10 years ago. A stroll down just twoblocks of Falk Miksa Street reveals more than 20 shops andgalleries stuffed with bric-a-brac, curios and objets d’art. (Asan interesting aside, politician and publicist Miksa Falk hasgone down in history books as the person who taughtQueen Elizabeth, wife of Austrian Emperor Franz Joseph, tospeak Hungarian.) The items on display (and the prices) areso tempting that not many have managed to walk from oneend of the street to the other without at least seriouslyconsidering making an “investment”. Lace-like delicateporcelain, silken carpets, carved or inlaid furniture, all arehandcrafted masterworks. In fact, the choice can sometimesbe a bit overwhelming. It is as though each piece has itsown story to tell and is just waiting to be discovered. Onemay be able to conjure up in the mind images of the artistswho created the old crochet-work curtains and filigree-lacetablecloths, or even the superbly worked wardrobes andtables. But who was the little girl who played with the

delightfully costumed doll over a century ago? How manysat in this turn-of-the-century, squat swivel barber’s chairupholstered in leather. Who was the beauty captured sovividly by this deft-handed painter? Where could thischarming landscape be that calls to us so evocatively? Whatconvoluted route did this silver candlestick take finally toend up in this shop? Then again, it’s always pleasurable tomull over where such and such a piece would go in thehouse. A famous Hungarian writer once glimpsed a sugarbowl in one of the shops and bought it because it was thesame as the one her family had when she was young. Theassociation sparked memories of bygone days, which finallygrew into a novel and then a popular stage play.

Among the 21 shops and galleries on Falk Miksa Street,some specialize in certain areas and some sell akaleidoscope of antiques. Some are just 20 square metresof shop floor, others are three-storey emporiums. Mostprop their doors open to entice in the curious, and manyhold auctions of museum-quality pictures, sculptures andother outstanding art objects. Among the bigger com-

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Sat.–Sun.: 10 am–midnightwww.siraly.co.hu

SzimplaVII., Kertész utca 48 ≥ 342-1034ó 10–2 am www.szimpla.hu

Szimpla CourtVII., Kazinczy utca 14 ó 12–3 amwww.szimpla.hu

Sixtus CaféVII., Nagydiófa utca 26 ≥ 413-6722

ó Mon.–Fri.: 5 pm–midnight, Sat.: 6pm–1 am

Szóda Café & ClubVII., Wesselényi utca 18 ≥ 461-0007ó Mon–Fri: 9 am–dawn, Sat-Sun: 2pm –dawn www.szoda.com

Tandem Café IX., Pipa utca 9 ≥ 218-9319 ó Mon.–Thur.: 9 am–1pm, Fri.: 9 am–2 pm, Sat.: 2 pm–2am www.tandemcafe.hu

Terv PresszóV., Nádor utca 19ó 3 pm–midnight

TûzraktérVI., Hegedû utca 3.ó 3 pm–midnightwww.tuzrakter.hu

West-Balkán GrundVIII., Nagytemplom utca 30.ó from 6 pmwww.westbalkan.com

Antiques road show

Cha-cha-cha Teraszin the garden of the Athletics Centre≥ (+36-70)554-0670www.chachacha.hu

Holdudvar in the garden of theCasino ≥ 236-0155 ó 11 am–5 pmopening in April, www.holdudvar.net

Sziget Klub Teraszat the Margaret Bridge end of the

island ≥ (06-70)531-2955www.szigetklubterasz.hu

Sark Kert Hajós Alfréd sétány 6.ó Mon–Fri: from 5 pm, Sat–Sun:from 2 pm all summer (open)

A38 HajóXI., Buda side of Petôfi Bridge ≥ 464-3940 ó 11 am–4 am www.a38.hu

After Music Club 0–24VII., Nyár utca 6 ≥ 413-2558ó non-stop www.aftermusicclub.hu

Budapest Jazz ClubVIII., Múzeum utca 7. ≥ 267-2610

ó on concert day 5 pm–12 pm www.bjc.hu

Fonó Buda Music HouseXI., Sztregova utca 3 ≥ 206-5300ó 10 am–midnight www.fono.hu

Gödör Klub & TeraszV., Erzsébet tér ≥ 20-943-5464www.vilagveleje.hu, www.godorklub.hu

MillenárisII., Fény utca 20–22 ≥ 438-5335, 438-5312ó 6 am–midnight

www.millenaris.hu

Trafó Bár TangóIX., Liliom utca 41 ≥ 456-2040ó 6 pm–4 am www.trafo.hu

Retro venues on Margaret Island

Where music takes centre stage: clubs, concert venues

Page 22: Budapest travel guide

panies there are a couple who specialize in the works of achosen artist or stage temporary exhibitions of the finestpaintings by a particular school, thereby spreading theword and bringing to the attention of the general public theoeuvre of artists who have sunken into obscurity. Forexample, the Kieselbach Gallery gives a comprehensiveoverview of modern Hungarian painting from 1919 to 1964.

The street is often busy (and all the more so before the majorholidays) with shoppers looking for something really special fora loved one: perhaps an Art Nouveau brooch or a cast iron wall-mounted sink (which, by the way, today has a new function asa plant-holder). This is truly the place for a “made-to-measure”gift! However, even slow days in Falk Miksa Street areinteresting. Collectors pop their heads around the doors tocheck out the ever changing displays, perhaps in the hope offinding that object that will complete a missing gap in thecollection, before their eye is taken by something else... Thenthere are others who just enjoy trawling through the shops,learning about the styles and periods, getting simple pleasurefrom handling old peasant faience kitchenware, ancientcolanders, the thick green glass of soda siphons, pharmacyjars, Murano chandeliers, Pakistani or Afghan hand-knottedwool or silk rugs, glorious Herend porcelain and old horologicaltimepieces, all the creations of skilled hands from bygone days.

Treasure, trash and trinkets at Ecseri Flea MarketThe largest second-hand market in Budapest, the fleamarket on Nagykôrösi Road, may be located somedistance from the centre of town and yet most tourists findthe journey out there well worth the time. Known by thelocals simply as the “Ecseri”, the bustling market is anexperience not only for those with a fixed aim but also forthose who just want to do some “stall shopping”. After all,it is great fun to browse through so many bits and piecesin the hope of turning up the occasional gem: from trinketsto Art Nouveau furniture, from black and white greetingscard to a silver fob watch, from an early camera topaintings of all schools and qualities, the Ecseri has it all.And more! Antiques, violins, gramophones, books,porcelain, old fashioned irons, rugs and carpets, old sodasiphons, pens, dinner services, medals, militaria, lace...

This is a cavalcade of old and new, the superb and theshowy, the glorious and the kitsch. Old bronze pestles andmortars, bottles with marble stoppers, lead soldiers andmilitary honours speak of bygone ages. No wonder thenthat the visitor sometimes feels as though time has stoodstill for a few decades.

The ramshackle market with absolutely no “extras” is a worldaway from the modern, glitzy, air-conditioned shopping malls oftoday. The Ecseri takes shopping to a different level wherepassion is part of the story. Sellers are often eager to strike up aconversation with potential buyers, extolling – at length – thevirtues of their wares and spicing up bargaining with raised voiceand argument. The visitor can also claim that this is not merely ashopping expedition but culture too. After all, the variety of ancientwooden troughs, copper watering cans and 100-year-old furnitureon display can be likened to a trip around an open-airethnographical museum! Gramophones, porcelain dolls andteddy bears are jammed in between chests of drawers, armchairsand oil paintings. Stands packed cheek by jowl with each otherand overflowing with knick-knacks of every conceivable kind giveone the sense of wandering an oriental bazaar.

Every one of the items on sale has its own story. Andperhaps this very fact gives the market its remarkable andsometimes mystical air. There is plenty of jewellery of thesort that grandmother probably wore for large family get-togethers, dinner services into which the Sunday soup wasladled year after year, and violins with strings worn thin bygenerations of youthful Menuhin wannabes.

Although most items won’t set you back more than a fewthousand forints at most, there are some valuable rarities outthere too. However, sorting the 24-carat gold from fool’s goldrequires not only a good eye but some considerable luck too. Atrip to the flea market will almost certainly mean you’ll comeacross a painting, piece of porcelain or some other antique whichwould look really good at home and be a pleasurable souvenir ofBudapest. But don’t forget to bargain, because this is all part ofthe game! Tip: before getting down to negotiations, decide themaximum price you’ll pay and stick to it. You should never forgetthat most dealers make their living selling to tourists...

The Ecseri is a treasure trove of objects for seriouscollectors and browsers alike because it is a gathering pointfor items from all over the Carpathian Basin including sub-Carpathia, Transylvania, Upper Hungary and the Vajdaság.Moving further afield, some traders travel all the way fromBelgium and France, but mixed among the stalls are Africanstoo selling antique silver. But Ecseri is not only about antiquesbecause there are also stallholders selling leather jackets andjeans at prices that put the downtown shops to shame. Sowhether you come to buy or to browse, you’ll not bedisappointed by what you find here. And if you find you reallydon’t need anything today, don’t leave empty handed! Theydo say the local lángos (fried dough smothered in sour cream,cheese and other toppings) is the best in town. “Ecseri” Flea MarketXIX, Nagykôrösi út 156 ≥ 348-3200ó Mon–Fri: 8 am–4 pm, Sat: 8 am–3 pm Sun: 8 am–1 pmAccess: tram 4 or 6 from Blaha Lujza Square to BorárosSquare, and then bus 54 to the market

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SIGHTSsightseeing

Budapest holds a front-ranking position among the most attractive

cities of the world. It successfully combines a centuries-old

architectural and cultural heritage with thelatest features of modern life.

If you are setting off on a sightseeing trip,take Budapest Card along with you because it

gives great discounts not only on citysightseeing tours but also on entry to a

variety of famous sights, museums, spas andthermal baths, as well as other

leisure and entertainment providers.

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Sightseeing programmesLeaflets published by travel agencies specializing in citysightseeing tours around Budapest are available from hotelreception desks and information offices. Visitors have achoice of sightseeing by bus, boat or on foot. In addition tothe traditional 12-16-language bus sightseeing tours thefollowing special programmes can also be recommended:trips around Parliament, the Opera House and Ethnogra-phical Museum, a walk in the Buda Castle, historical Pest,

Jewish memories in Budapest, Hungarian Art Nouveau,Budapest by night, and the Red Star tour (features fromcommunist times).

Duna Bella and Danube Legend 30 languagesightseeing cruises and Candlelit Dinner Cruise on boardof new “glass bubble boats” organized by Legenda Ltd.(www.legenda.hu ≥ +36 1 266-4190 – Dock 7 at Vigadósquare) programmes with buffet catering are organized byHungária Koncert Kft. (≥ 317-1377, 317-2754)

Further information on city sightseeing programmes isavailable on the web page of the Tourism Office of Budapest(www.budapestinfo.hu).

Only one day? What you mustn’t miss...Budapest holds a front-ranking position among the mostattractive cities of the world. It successfully combines a centuries-old architectural and cultural heritage with the latest features ofmodern life; cherished historical memorials are steadily regainingtheir original forms (in line with available resources). Anyone whohas just one day to spend on sightseeing around the capitalneeds a well-planned programme. It would be a pity to miss theBuda Castle, Danube embankment and Andrássy Avenue, allWorld Heritage sites. The Castle district is packed with museums,for instance the Castle Museum, Museum of Military History andthe Hungarian National Gallery. The view from the Royal Palaceacross the Danube is breathtaking. Despite being rebuilt in neo-Gothic style, Matthias Church has managed to preserve itsinterior layout first shaped 700 years ago. Once the church whereroyalty was crowned, today its excellent acoustics make it anideal venue for organ concerts. Its collection of ecclesiasticalvestments is famous, and there is also a replica of the HungarianHoly Crown preserved in the treasury. The pale masonry ofFishermen’s Bastion serves as a fine backdrop to MatthiasChurch. Close by is the Hilton Hotel, awarded the Hotel of theYear prize at the time it was built. In summertime the Hilton caféand terrace are popular places to relax.

The most attractive parts of the Danube embankment canalso be observed while on the move. Tram No. 2 travels theentire length of the embankment, and a return trip affords anexcellent platform from where we can pick out the most

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important buildings: departing from Jászai Mari Square we soonarrive at Parliament and then a little further down the view ofMatthias Church, Fishermen’s Bastion and the Royal Palaceunfolds across the river. The tram rattles past one bridge afteranother, including Chain Bridge, the oldest in Budapest. LeavingElizabeth Bridge behind, Gellért Hill dominates the Buda scene,and then the marvellous old Gellért Hotel and Spa Bath hove intoview at the foot of Liberty Bridge on the Buda side.

The Citadel (formerly a fortress, today a museum), the mostimportant lookout point in the city, sits atop Gellért Hill and offersan unrivalled panorama of World Heritage Budapest includingthe Buda Castle district and both sides of the Danubeembankment. At the end of our tram ride stand the new NationalTheatre and Palace of Arts on the Pest side close to LágymányosBridge. On the return trip (on the right-hand side) we have thedignified University Corvinus Budapest, behind which is theremarkable Central Market Hall. Further back into town we passa series of top class hotels and the Vigadó, whose concert halland lobby are as dramatic as the external view. The GreshamPalace, which has been transformed into a luxury hotel (FourSeasons), and the neo-Renaissance building of the HungarianAcademy of Sciences, stand on Roosevelt Square.

Andrássy Avenue is a key element in the Budapest cityplan. An early underground railway (in fact the very first on thecontinent) still runs the length of the Avenue; stations on theline have preserved their original designs created 130 yearsago, and small exhibitions at each station detail the mostinteresting buildings of the age. Our tour concludes at Heroes’Square where it is worth devoting time to the world-famouscollection of Spanish masters and other treasures in theMuseum of Fine Arts, or the contemporary exhibitions stagedin the Art Gallery on the opposite side of the square.

Our World HeritageIn 2002 the UNESCO World Heritage committee enhanced thecapital’s standing among the already existing eight WorldHeritage locations in Hungary (Hollókô, Budapest, Pannon-halma, Hortobágy, Pécs, Tokaj, Aggtelek, Lake Fertô). Thismeans that now Andrássy Avenue and its historical environsjoin the Castle district and Danube embankment as holders of

the prestigious World Heritage award, although it is true to saythat local residents and visitors consider the award fullydeserved, Budapest being – in their eyes – one of the mostbeautiful capitals in the world.

The Castle quarter represents the core of the ancient town andan area guarding some of the most important historicalmonuments in the country. And although in the 800 years since itsfoundation it has been hit by virtually every disaster imaginable –earthquake, fire, siege and world war – its beauty continues toshine through and its medieval monuments are a delight. Onentering the quarter visitors generally get the impression they havetravelled back in time to a completely different, calmer age, wherethe gateways of Baroque houses reveal Roman-age stones andfinely carved sedilia from the age of chivalry. Underneath the feetlies a vast labyrinth of caves, which served as a military station for20,000 German soldiers during the Second World War. One of thedefining buildings of Budapest, the over 700-year-old MatthiasChurch, stands in Szentháromság (Holy Trinity) Square. Its Gothictower and the backdrop of Fishermen’s Bastion make this one ofthe most commonly photographed monuments. Over the courseof centuries the church was the scene for many coronations, thenit served as a Turkish mosque from 1541 before being re-consecrated. Inside, the earthly remains of King Béla III and hiswife lie in a carved sarcophagus. The rich collection ofecclesiastical art attracts many visitors each year. Fishermen’sBastion was raised in neo-Romanesque style on the foundationsof the medieval castle walls; it affords a superb viewpoint over thecity. Right alongside, and happily alloying the old with the new,stands the luxury Hilton Hotel built over 25 years ago. The hotelcourtyard encompasses the cloister of a medieval monastery,inside which are the remains of an ancient church; theatricalperformances are held here each summer.

The former Royal Palace and its attendant buildings representan organic, and yet at the same time a separate part of the Castlequarter. The several historical sections, which were severelydamaged during the Second World War, have over the interveningyears found new functions. Most wings of the palace have beenturned into museums, and the National Széchényi Library is alsohere. Sándor Palace, once the residence of the prime minister, isnow the office and residence of the president of the republic.

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The Royal Palace and its fine buildings form a single entitywith the rows of Danube embankment houses under Castle Hill,with Rudas Baths, built in 1566 by Pasha Sokoli Mustafa andonce a cultic centre due to its proximity to a nearby Dervishmonastery, as well as the cliffs of Gellért Hill and the bridgesspanning the Danube. Among the latter, the oldest is ChainBridge built in 1849, the most graceful is Elizabeth Bridge, oneof the earliest suspension bridges, and the newest bridge on thescene is Lágymányos, which diverts a considerable amount oftraffic away from the inner city. The century-old building ofParliament, built by Imre Steindl in neo-Gothic style, defines theview on the opposite side of the Danube. Behind this one cansee the dome of Budapest’s largest ecclesiastical building, St.Stephen’s Basilica. Not far from this stands the dignified edificeof the Hungarian Academy of Sciences on the Pest end of ChainBridge, and beside it the Art Nouveau Gresham Palace whichhas been completely renewed to function as a Four Seasonsluxury hotel. The marvellous panorama is rounded off by the lineof hotels on the embankment and the grand old Vigadó.

Andrássy Avenue and environs make up a unifiedarchitectural form dating from the late 19th century, despitewhich there are still clearly defined sections to it. It was namedafter the former prime minister who had done much to makeBudapest a true metropolis. The cream of Eclecticarchitecture is to be seen along the Avenue, including theoutstanding Opera House and many beautiful tenementblocks with intimate inner courtyards, statues and fountains.But it is not only these buildings which are worthy of attention;the Avenue’s environs boast a huge variety of architecturalstyles and interesting sights. The near 2.5-km-long Avenuewas inspired by the boulevards of France, and it originally hada separate lane reserved for gentlemen out riding.

One of the special features of Andrássy Avenue is barely visibleon the surface. The only give-away is the occasional wrought ironbalustrade leading underground... Continental Europe’s first sub-surface railway was built under the road, and the more than 125-year-old underground is still carrying passengers today along aline only slightly longer than the original. After Oktogon themuseum visitor comes across a vast grey edifice, the House ofTerror Museum set up in the former headquarters of the dreaded

state police. Inside is a permanent exhibition dedicated to themany victims of fascism and communism in Hungary.

Villas along the Avenue are named after their one-time ownersor designers. This is where you’ll find the Museum of EasternAsiatic Arts, established in the former home of Ferenc Hopp whocollected most of the works on display, and then bequeathedthem to the nation. The embassies have residences in equallyimposing villas. A fine Bauhaus building stands at the corner ofMunkácsy Mihály Street; this is the recently renovated HotelAndrássy, designed by Alfréd Hajós, Hungarian swimmingchampion at the 1896 Athens Olympic Games. The neo-Renaissance Hungarian College of Fine Art also stands onAndrássy Avenue; a memorial museum established in the formerflat of Zoltán Kodály, one of the greatest Hungarian composersof the 20th century, can be accessed from Kodály Circus.

Andrássy Avenue terminates at the Millennium Monumenterected to mark the thousandth anniversary of the MagyarConquest. Archangel Gabriel stands atop the huge column, atthe foot of which are sculptures of the seven tribal chieftains. Thesemi-circular pantheon surrounding this ensemble hasdepictions of famous kings, generals and great historical figures.In the foreground is the memorial to the Unknown Soldier. Mostvisiting heads of state and government pay their respects at thismonument. On one side of the square stands the Museum ofFine Arts with a Spanish collection unrivalled outside Spain, andopposite the Art Gallery, home to temporary exhibitions.

City Park Lake behind Heroes’ Square tempts the visitor totake out a boat in summer and skate in winter. The entertainmentand cultural centres in City Park (Zoo, Funfair, Municipal GrandCircus, Széchenyi Spa, Vajdahunyad Castle built on a miniisland, the museums of agriculture and transport as well as PetôfiHall) are the capital’s favourite tourist destinations.

Sightseeing over 3 days,or where you should go in BudapestWe hope that Budapest will captivate you, and you have the chanceof staying in our capital for at least three days. But if you’ve alreadyseen the Castle district, Danube embankment and AndrássyAvenue, don’t despair: there are plenty of other things to see and do!

Parliament stands head and shoulders above its neighbours

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on the Pest side of the river. Whether we are talking of itsexternal neo-Gothic appearance or its interior, there is but oneword to describe it: stunning. Today it guards the HungarianHoly Crown, Orb and Sceptre, while the 1009-year-old mantle,another part of the coronation regalia richly embroidered withgold thread, is preserved in the Hungarian National Museum.Not far from Parliament is St. Stephen’s Basilica, the largestecclesiastical building in Budapest and repository for the relicthe Holy Right Hand of St. Stephen, Hungary’s first king. TheBasilica’s dome affords a superb all-round view of the city. A 5-

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minute walk from the Basilica in the direction of Chain Bridgegets one to the neo-Baroque Duna Palace (1895), once thehome of the Lipótváros casino. Today it hosts symphonyconcerts and folklore shows (seating capacity: 292).

One of the finest historical monuments in the capital, the OperaHouse, stands on Andrássy Avenue. It is well worth visiting not onlyfor its brilliant performances but also for the magnificent grand stairand lavish interior design. Buy tickets for an evening ofentertainment there. You’ll be able to enjoy the classics orcontemporary music in the form of opera or ballet performed nearlyevery day of the week. It will be a memory you’ll always treasure.

However, should the history of transport, rare vehicles and thelike, be more to your taste, then we can recommend the TransportMuseum. The collection, set up in a museum in City Park, displaysa whole variety of items from veteran cars to a space module. Themuseum’s model collection – incredibly detailed scale models oflocomotives, carriages and ships – is spoken of around the world.Life-size, working locomotives, the real thing, are on display in theRailway History Park (indeed, you can even try your hand at drivingone). The Park boasts around 100 fully functioning locomotivesfrom the early days of steam up to more modern times.

Aquincum is packed with memories of the Roman period.The town was the seat of the province, and its excavated ruins

allow one to conjure up in the mind an image of the oncethriving centre complete with baths, amphitheatres and militaryencampment. An extensive furniture exhibition in the Nagy-tétény Mansion Museum covers periods which came long afterthe Romans had left: superb Renaissance, Baroque, Bieder-meier and neo-Classical furniture. Budafok, famed for its wine-making, lies not far from Nagytétény. Millions of litres of the veryfinest sparkling wines and select reds and whites lie maturingin the cavernous cellar system hereabouts. A tour of the cellarscombined with wine tasting takes at least half a day.

A trip out to the Memento Park will prove an unforgettableexperience. Gigantic statues and memorials erected duringCommunist times and collected from all parts of the country(although largely from around the squares and streets of thecapital) after the change of regime have been brought togetherto make a stunning collection probably unique in the world.

Budapest is a spa city. Travellers were writing about itsremarkable medicinal waters in the 1500s. One of the Turkishbaths built around that time is the Rudas, and it still employssome of the original fittings today. Gellért Spa is the mostelegant in town, offering a bubble bath, open-air wave pool,thermal pools and medical services to very high standards.

Of course one’s tour, trip to a museum or spa wouldn’t becomplete without enjoying a fine meal in one of the manyexcellent restaurants of the capital, or coffee and cakes in anequally outstanding confectionery. Budapest is proud of severalvery good restaurants, with unique atmosphere like theAlabárdos and Aranyszarvas (Golden Hind) in the castle district,Kárpátia in Pest side or Kisbuda Gyöngye in Óbuda. Theirfurnishings and style are delightful, and each serves traditionalHungarian cuisine made to order, just as is the case in the famedMatthias Cellar (Mátyás pince). Among the confectioneries, theonce renowned Hauer has reopened on Rákóczi Road, andMozart on Erzsébet Boulevard serves the creme de la creme incakes and desserts. Gerbeaud on Vörösmarty Square and theZsolnay confectionery in the Béke Hotel are elegant and oldworld, with delicacies served on fine Hungarian porcelain.

We hope that in the course of getting to know Budapestyou’ll discover for yourself: you just can’t help falling in lovewith this city.

Castle quarter and Castle Hill A-B3I. district (Buda)ç 16A, 16, FunicularPart of the World Heritage. Due to its excellent features it wassettled as early as the 13th century; King Béla IV built a castle hereafter the Tartar invasion, and he chose this spot as the seat ofroyal rule. The Castle quarter on Castle Hill stands 180 m abovesea level. It is around 1.5 km long and in places it is 500 metreswide. It boasts three churches, five museums, many historicalbuildings, monuments, streets and squares, a theatre, four hotels,numerous atmospheric restaurants, cafés, galleries and giftshops. Breathtaking panoramas open from the Fishermen’sBastion and the promenade in front of the National Gallery.

Royal Palace B3I. district Castle quarter ç 16A, 16, Funicular

One of the symbols of the nation, the palace has witnessed wars andoccupation from the 13th to the 20th century. The Turks occupied it, asdid the Habsburgs, it was destroyed three times and then rebuilt,each time in the architectural style of the age. Today’s neo-Classicalstyle was taken on after the Second World War. The building hostsseveral distinguished institutions: the Hungarian National Gallery,Budapest History Museum and the National Széchényi Library.

Fishermen’s Bastion A3I., Szentháromság tér ç 16A, 16,A relatively youthful structure next to Matthias Church. Building startedin 1895 on the designs of Frigyes Schulek. It was sited on the place ofthe medieval fish market and the walls protected by the guild offishermen, whence the name. The neo-Romanesque bastion has onlyever had a decorative role: it is a popular place to look out over Pest.

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Parliament B2V., Kossuth tér 1–3 441-4000 www.parlament.huTours: daily every 15 minutes, groups of min. 5 persons(weekdays 8 am–6 pm, Saturday 8 am–4 pm, Sunday 8 am–2 pm;1 Oct.–30 Apr.: weekdays 8 am–4 pm); assemble at Gate No. 10.

Admission: adults HUF 2640, students: HUF 1320, Interna-tional Student Card accepted, free for citizens of the EuropeanUnion (certification of citizenship required) Information: 441-44152 Kossuth tér ç 15 « 2 ë 70, 78The largest building in the country, the permanent site of the national

assembly, Parliament sits on the Danube embankment with itsentrance looking out over Kossuth Square. The neo-Gothic building isthe work of architect Imre Steindl, and was constructed between1884–1904. It has 691 rooms, is 268 m long and its cupola rises 96 minto the air. The staircase is embellished with fine frescoes by KárolyLotz and sculptures by György Kiss. Parliament’s most importantwork of art, the painting “The Conquest” by Mihály Munkácsy, is in theMunkácsy Room next to the President’s office. Since 2000 the generalpublic has been able to view the Hungarian coronation regalia here:St. Stephen’s Crown, the sceptre, orb and Renaissance sword.

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Heroes’ Square C2XIV, City Park 1 Hôsök tere ç 20, 30, 105 ë 79The most spectacular square in the capital, sited at theentrance to City Park. Anyone coming up Andrássy Boulevardsees from afar the 36-m-high column in the centre of theMillennium memorial, on top of which is a statue of theArchangel Gabriel holding the Hungarian Holy Crown andapostolic double cross. Quarter-circular colonnades extend toboth left and right of the column. Between the pillars of thecolonnade are figures of the ‘greats’ from Hungarian history,while the butt piers are embellished with emblematic sculpturalensembles (work, welfare, knowledge, honour and peace). TheTomb of the Unknown Soldier is positioned in front of themonument. The magnificent buildings of the Art Gallery and theMuseum of Fine Arts to the right and left of the monumentenhance the fine architectural entity of Heroes’ Square.

Liberty Statue B4XI., Gellérthegy ç 7, 86 « 18, 19, 41, 56The 14-m-high statue, the work of outstanding architectZsigmond Kisfaludy Strobl, was raised in 1947 in memory of thecountry’s liberation. And even though the post-war period alsomarked the start of Soviet rule, the statue on Gellért Hill was notremoved even after the change of regime since it had becomean indelible part of the cityscape. There are two other sculpturesat the foot of the female figure holding aloft the palm of victory:one is an allegory of progress, the other the fight against evil.

Statue of St. Gellért B4XI., Gellérthegy ç 7, 86 « 18, 19, 41, 56The statue of Bishop Gellért, who died a martyr in the 11th century,stands opposite Elizabeth Bridge on the south side of Gellért Hill.According to legend this is the spot from where pagans pushedthe missionary bishop, sealed in a barrel, down into the Danube.The striking statue is enhanced by the semicircular colonnadebehind and the natural spring which rises to the surface at thispoint, and which turns into a waterfall below the statue.

Hungarian Academy of Sciences B3V., Roosevelt tér 9 « 2 ç 16The oldest and most significant building on Roosevelt Square.Its perfect neo-Renaissance design came from the studio ofBerlin architect Stüler, and it was built between 1862–64. Thegrand gala hall decorated with pictures by Károly Lotz is alsoused for staging concerts. There are lecture and session rooms,and a valuable scientific library. Allegorical sculptures in theimposing foyer and on the façade are the work of Miklós Izsóand Emil Wolf.

Hungarian State Opera House B3VI., Andrássy út 22 331-2550 www.opera.hu 1 Opera « 4, 6 ó daily 3 and 4 pmDaily guided tours in English, German, Italian, Spanish andFrench.

Prices: adults HUF 2600, students HUF 1400, (InternationalStudent Card accepted).

Information: 332-8197 www.operavisit.huOne of the most imposing opera houses of its day, the

Budapest Opera House opened in 1884. Its neo-Classical andneo-Renaissance design is the work of the greatest Hungarianarchitect of the 19th century, Miklós Ybl. The grandiose lobby,elegant staircase and horseshoe-shaped auditorium areimportant tourist sights in themselves. Guest conductors at theOpera House have included such world greats as GustavMahler and Otto Klemperer.

Hungarian State Geological Institute D2 XIV., Stefánia út 14 2 Stadionok ç 7 ë 75, 80One of the capital’s finest Art Nouveau buildings. It was designed byÖdön Lechner and built in 1899. Its light blue ceramic roof and blueZsolnay ceramic decoration harmonize with the yellow-brownfaçade. Three figures can be observed on the middle roof crestholding a globe. There is a rock and mineral exhibition in the Institute.

Central Market B4IX., Fôvám tér 1–3 ç 15 « 2 ó Mon: 6 am–5 pm, Tue–Fri: 6 am–6 pm, Sat: 6 am–2 pmThe largest market in the capital, and the most attractive. It wasbuilt in 1890, designed by Samu Pecz. Following its completerestoration in 1994 it has become one of the most popular andvisited shopping sites among tourist circles. The imposingbuilding of the University Corvinus Budapest stands close by, atthe Pest foot of Liberty Bridge.

Gresham Palace B3V., Roosevelt tér 5–6 « 2 ç 16, 105This Art Nouveau building was commissioned by the GreshamAssurance Company, London, and built in 1907 on the basis ofdesigns by the brothers József and László Vágó and ZsigmondQuittner. The most modern luxury apartments and offices of theday were established in the building. The Palace featuresseveral statues, one of which (at the top of the facade) is a bustof Sir Thomas Gresham, founder of the London stock exchange.The Four Seasons, the capital’s most exclusive luxury hotel,opened here in 2004.

Duna Palace B3V, Zrínyi utca 5 ≥ 317-1377, 317-2754 « 2 ç 16, 105

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The neo-Baroque Duna Palace located between the Basilicaand Chain Bridge was built by Vilmos Freund in 1895 and wasoriginally the home of the Lipótváros casino. Each year itdonated several million forints to artistic causes and to nurtureyoung talent. All concerts and soirees were arranged to the veryhighest standards, and in fact there was not one notable artistof the day who didn’t perform there at least once. Later on thebuilding underwent several reconstructions; its current formdates from 1941. Folklore performances and symphonyconcerts are regularly staged in the theatre hall.

Szabadság (Liberty) Square B3V., Szabadság tér ç 15 « 2 2 Kossuth tér 3 Arany János utcaOne of the most imposing squares in the capital is surroundedby fine buildings. The richly decorated walls of the HungarianNational Bank look onto the Eclectic-Art Nouveau headquartersof Hungarian TV (formerly it was the stock exchange) opposite.Both were built to the designs of Count Ignác Alpár in 1905.

The building housing the American Embassy (1899-1901) isalso worthy of attention.

On the north side of the square stands the huge memorial toSoviet troops killed during the siege of Budapest in 1945, the onlycommunist monument still standing in its original position after thechange of regime. Leaving the square through Aulich Street wecome to the Batthyány eternal flame: this was the site of theexecution in 1849 (after the War of Independence had been putdown) of the prime minister of the first independent Hungariangovernment, Lajos Batthyány. Walking down Vécsey Street towardsKossuth Lajos Square the way crosses through Martyrs’ Square.The statue on the bridge here is of Imre Nagy, the prime minister ofHungary during the 1956 Revolution, who was also executed.

Palace of Arts C4IX., Komor Marcell utca 1 ç 23, 54, 103 « 1, 2, 24 « Csepel, Ráckeve The capital’s newest concert venue, the Bartók Béla NationalConcert Hall, as well as the new residences of the LudwigMuseum and National Dance Theatre (in Festival Theatre) are allin the modern cultural structure positioned between Lágymá-nyos Bridge and the National Theatre, the Palace of Arts. Since

its opening in March 2005 the institution has attracted suchworld-famous orchestras and companies as the ChicagoSymphonics, the London St. Martin-in-the-Fields Ensemble andthe Nederland Dance Theatre. The permanent exhibition of theLudwig Museum includes works by Picasso, Warhol and thegreatest contemporary Hungarian artists. All are welcome totake in the building’s breathtaking interior dimensions; there isalso a CD store, gift and bookshop, restaurant and cafeteria.

House of Hungarian Art Nouveau B2V., Honvéd utca 3 ç 15 « 2 2 Kossuth tér 3 Arany János utcaA 600-sqm permanent exhibition set up in Bedô House, built in1903 to the designs of Emil Vidor, presents this remarkable anddynamic artistic style of the early 20th century. Of equal interestare the Art Nouveau fittings, the small gift shop and the café inthis superbly restored and furnished building.

Gozsdu Court B3VII., between Király Street and Dob Street1 2 3 Deák tér ç 9 ë 74This restoration development in the downtown is just a few minutesaway from Deák Ferenc Square. Joining Király utca 13 and Dob utca16, Gozsdu Court is located in a part of the capital particularlywealthy in cultural, historical and architectural memories (Liszt Fe-renc Square, Academy of Music, “Pest Broadway”, Opera House).The Art Nouveau block was designed by Gyôzô Czigler, one of themost outstanding architects of his day (another of his famous worksis Széchenyi Spa), in 1902 at the commission of lawyer and leadingsociety figure Manó Gozsdu. Gozsdu, who came from a Macedoro-manian family from the Bánát, had the idea of creating this block toassist Romanian students studying in Budapest.

As well as providing a residential function (it comprises 11 flats)this unique architectural treasure in the capital has also become amagnet for a variety of service providers and programmes:galleries, cafés, art exhibitions, concerts and gastronomy days.

Elizabeth Bridge B3ç 5, 7, 7E, 8, 173, 78, 86 « 2, 18, 19, 41, 118In the year of its construction (1903) it was the world’s longestsuspension bridge, a record it held until 1926. The bridge wasnamed after the wife of Emperor Franz Joseph, Hungary’s belovedQueen Elizabeth. German troops blew up the original bridge in 1945.The new bridge was designed by Pál Sávoly and built in 1964.

Liberty Bridge B4ç 15, 86 « 2, 18, 19, 41, 118, 47, 49 (tram substitute)Originally called Franz Joseph Bridge, it was constructed in 1899,and following the destruction of all the Budapest bridges in 1945this was the first one to be rebuilt (1946) since it had suffered theleast damage. During rebuilding all its decorative motifs wereretained: the mythical Turul birds, royal coat of arms etc.

Chain Bridge B3ç 16, 86, 105 « 2, 19, 41The capital’s first bridge, a historical monument, has attracted manytourists to Budapest: photographs or film of it illuminated at night,with the imposing Buda Castle rising in the background, make for a

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breathtaking sight. Count István Széchenyi commissioned WilliamTierney Clark to design the bridge and engineer Adam Clark (norelation) to build it. Construction lasted from 1839–1849. The bridgedid not escape the destruction of the Second World War, and it wasrebuilt in 1949, on its 100th anniversary.

Pál Street Boys C4VIII., Práter utca 15 (2 minutes from József körút)3 Ferenc körút « 4, 6The work was unveiled to commemorate the 100th anniversary

(September 2007) of the “Pál Street Boys”, one of the all-timeclassics of Hungarian literature. The bronze sculpture depictingone of the most memorable scenes in the novel (which hasbeen translated into 35 languages), the “einstandolás” (whenthe red shirted Pásztor brothers gaze down at the Pál Streetkids playing marbles in the garden of the National Museum), isthe creation of Péter Szanyi and is located in front of the VIIIdistrict Práter Street school. The unusual artwork combined withthe shabbiness of the locality perfectly reflect the ambience ofthe turn of the century.

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MEDICINAL BATHScavesBudapest is a city of medicinal baths. Although baths from Romantimes (2nd century) have been uncovered in Budapest, the truebathing culture was initiated during the period of Turkishoccupation in the 16th and 17th centuries. Even today there are someTurkish baths in the capital (Rudas, Rác, Király, Császár), each onea masterpiece of Ottoman architecture. Don’t forget. You can bathe for less witha Budapest Card!

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Admission charges show the lowest and highest rates. Theremay be several variations between these two extremes. Pricesvalid to the end of 2008; admission charges are likely toincrease in 2009. Detailed information on the composition andindications/contraindications of medicinal waters is availablein Hungarian, English and German at www.budapestspas.hu.

Gellért Spa Baths �1 B4 XI., Kelenhegyi út 4–6 ≥ 466-6166 ó Mon–Sat: 6 am–7pm, Sat–Sun: 6 am–5 pmOne of the most popular baths for tourists coming toBudapest. The medicinal spring here was already famed inthe 13th century. The spa is decorated with a wealth oforiginal Art Nouveau furnishings, artistic mosaics, stainedglass windows and sculptures, although the interior of thehotel built alongside has lost many of these fittings over theyears. ç 7, 86 « 18, 19, 41, 56, 49, 47 % HUF 1200–3400

Király Medicinal Baths �2 B2II., Fô utca 82–84 ≥ 202-3688 ó Women: Mon, Wed: 7am–6 pm, Men: Tue, Thur, Fri, Sat: 9 am–8 pm; mixed: 9am–8 pmIt is believed that a start was made on building the bath byPasha of Buda Arslan in 1565. It is one of the fewremaining monuments from the Turkish times, receivingthe visitor in all the original magnificence of a periodOttoman palace of bathing. 2 Batthyány tér ç 60, 86 % HUF 500–2600

Lukács Medicinal Baths and Swimming Pool �3 A-B2II., Frankel Leó utca 25–29 ≥ 326-1695 ó Mon–Fri: 6 am–7 pm, Sat–Sun: 6 am–5 pm In addition to the medicinal bath section of the bathingcomplex built in the 19th century, the swimming pool isalso very popular, attracting writers and artists among itsregular clients. The 1800-square-metre park with trees,many of which are centuries old, is an ideal place forrelaxing. ç 86 « 17, 4, 6 % 400–2200

Rác Medicinal Baths �4 B3-4I., Hadnagy utca 8–10 Under reconstruction.

Rudas Medicinal Baths and swimming pool �5 B4 I., Döbrentei tér 9 ó men: Mon, Wed, Thur, Fri: 6 am–8 pm; women: Tue: 6 am–8 pm, mixed: Sat–Sun: 6 am––5 pm (night bathing: Fri–Sun: 10 pm–4 am)After several years of restoration work the Turkish bathssection reopened in December 2005. The original fittingsdating from the 16th century are still in use today. Anoctagonal pool is sited under the characteristic Turkishdome (diameter 10 m) supported on 8 pillars. Medicinalwaters can be taken in the pump-room in cure form. ç 5, 7, 8, 86 « 18, 19, 41, 56 % HUF 1200–2400 (night bathing: HUF 2500)

Széchenyi Spa Baths �6 C2XIV., Állatkerti út 11 ≥ 363-3210 ó Men’s and women’sthermal baths daily 6 am–7 pm, swimming pool daily: 6am–11 pmOne of the largest bathing complexes in Europe, the premiermedicinal bath of Pest. Its thermal springs were discoveredin 1879; they are the deepest and hottest (74-75° C) thermalwells in the capital. The neo-Baroque baths were built in1913, the swimming pool in 1927. The open-air sections withtheir pleasantly warm waters are equally popular in winter. 1 Széchenyi fürdô ë 72 % thermal baths: HUF 500–2400

Ramada Plaza Budapest �7 B1 III., Árpád Fejedelem útja 94 ≥ 436-4100 ó all year round:6.30 am–10.30 pmLocated in a pleasant environment by the Danube, thiselegant spa hotel offers guests swimming and thermalpools, steam bath, sauna, jacuzzi and Scottish shower. « 1 ç 106 % HUF 2600–5500

Danubius Thermal & Conference Hotel Helia �8 B1-2 XIII., Kárpát utca 62–64 ≥ 889-5820 ó 7 am–10 pmThe Scandinavian-style 4-star spa hotel on the Pest side ofthe Danube embankment offers guests a fantasticpanorama of Margaret Island and the Buda Hills. Thepopular fitness centre has four pools, sauna, steam bath,workout room and sunbathing terrace. ë 79 % HUF 3900–5400

Danubius Thermal Hotel Margitsziget, Danubius Margitsziget �9 B1XIII., Margaret Island ≥ 889-4914 ó 6.30 am–9.30 pmThe old and modern buildings of these two hotelspositioned on picturesque Margaret Island, the mostattractive park in Budapest, are the ideal places for thoseseeking rest and relaxation. Far from the noise of town, andyet within easy reach of the downtown, they offer guestsevery comfort and service (including a swimming pool andfour medicinal pools). ç 26 « 4, 6 % HUF 5700–7000

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Császár-Komjádi Swimming Pool �10 A2 II., Árpád fejedelem útja 8 ≥ 326-1478 ó Mon–Sat: 6 am–1.30 pm, Sat–Sun: 6 am–7 pmç 6, 60, 86 % HUF 1200

Csillaghegy Strand-Swimming Pool �11 E1 III., Pusztakúti út 3 ≥ 242-0754 ó 3-30 May, 21-31 Aug: 6 am–7 pm, 31 May–20 Aug: 9 am –9 pm « Csillaghegy % HUF 400–1700

Dagály Medicinal Baths, Swimming Pool, Strand Baths �12 B1 XIII., Népfürdô utca 36 ≥ 452-4500 ó May–September: 6 am–7 pm October–April: Mon–Fri: 6am–7 pm, Sat, Sun: 6 am–5 pm« 1 Árpád híd ç 133 % HUF 400–1900

Hajós Alfréd Sport Swimming Pool �13 B2 XIII., Margaret Island ≥ 450-4200ó Mon–Fri: 6 am–5 pm (Oct–April: Mon–Fri: 6 am–4 pm),Sat–Sun: 6 am–6 pmç 26 « 4, 6 % HUF 790–1320

Nyéki Imre Swimming Pool �14 E1XI., Kondorosi út 14 ≥ 208-4026

ó Mon–Fri: 6 am–8 pm, Sat: 6 am–6 pm, Sun: 6 am–5 pm(June–Aug: Sat–Sun: 6 am–7 pm)ç 7 « 18, 41, 56 Albertfalva % HUF 520-940

Palatinus Strand Baths �15 B4 XIII., Margaret Island ≥ 340-4505 ó May–Aug: 9 am–7 pm,ç 26 « 4, 6 % HUF 1300–2900

Pünkösdfürdô Strand �16 E1III., Királyok útja 272 ≥ 388-6665 ó June–Aug 31: 9 am–7 pm« Pükösdfürdô ç 34, 145, 146 % HUF 600–1000

Római Strand Baths �17 E1III., Rozgonyi P. u. 2 ≥ 388-9740 ó June–Aug.: 8 am–7 pm « Római fürdô ç 34 106 % HUF 1000–2000

CavesPálvölgy Cave �18 A1 II., Szépvölgyi út 162 ≥ 325-9505 ó Tue–Sun: 10 am–4.15 pmA superb cave in the Buda Hills open to tourists. Thecountry’s third largest cave (over 1 km open to visitors) hasnumerous remarkable stalactite formations. ç 65 % HUF 750–1250

Szemlôhegy Cave �19 A1 II., Pusztaszeri út 35 ≥ 325-6001 ó 10 am–4 pm, Tuesday closedThe cave, formed as a result of natural tectonic move-ments, is the other cave in the Buda Hills accessible totourist groups. Its remarkable formations (peastone) werecreated in areas where thermal water permeated thelimestone. Its cool, moist air has a curative effect for thosesuffering from respiratory problems. ç 29 % HUF 600–1250

Castle Cave �20 A3I., Országház utca 16 This natural formation comprising a cave network underthe Castle Hill plateau enjoys protected status. It has aunique standing among the caves of Hungary since it isthe largest travertine cave system in the country. Closedfor renovation

Buda Castle Labyrinth �21 A3I., Úri utca 9 ≥ 212-0287 ó 9.30 am–7.30 pmA 1200-metre-long cave and cellar network running underBuda Castle, part of UNESCO’s World Heritage. Amidstthe naturally wrought passageways reckoned to be somehalf a million years old and walls built over the past manycenturies, visitors are enticed into a secret, mysteriouslabyrinth during the day, in the evening and at night.Exhibition of the ages and cultures. Sunday morning: KID’SLABYRINTH – exciting exploration and games. ç 16A % HUF 1100–1500

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Ramada Resort BudapestOriental Spa, Wellness and Fitness CentreBudapest IV., Íves út 16. (to the north of the citycentre, on the Pest side of the M0 Megyeri Bridge)

≥ 2313 693

www.ramadaresortbudapest.hu

ó 7 am–10 pm

The hotel’s Oriental Spa, Wellness and FitnessCentre offers numerous services including

the Mandala pool, separate sauna world, beautytreatments and various massages.

ç 30 % from HUF 6100

RAMADA RESORT BUDAPEST

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BEYONDBudapest

In whichever direction one looks, there are things of interestclose to Budapest: to the north, Szentendre and the charming

towns of the Danube Bend are the closest sights; to thesouthwest it is possible to travel back

thousands of years in time; to the south, we come across memories of Beethoven’s

visits to Hungary; and to the northeast there is a Baroque town preserving

the memory of Queen Elisabeth (fondly known as Sissi).

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Just outside Budapest Whatever point of the compass we choose to follow, there is alwayssomething of interest to discover beyond the border of Budapest.For instance, travel north and the nearest places of note areSzentendre (see separate article), Visegrád, Esztergom and Vác.

Visegrád is a synthesis of the past, present and future. At onetime the border of the Roman Empire, the limes, ran past thesettlement; you can still see the ruins of Roman watchtowers alongthe Danube. The first king of Hungary, St. Stephen, established astewardship here and raised the archdeacon’s church, thefoundations of which still stand on Castle Hill. The view from here issuperb, encompassing the incomparable Danube Bend. Not faraway is the imposing citadel and the huge keep which takes itsname, Solomon’s Tower, from the myth that once King Solomon washeld captive here. It is a fact however that during the Middle Agesthe royal crown was kept under lock and key here. Today the toweris a museum with a display of archaeological treasures. The toweringRoyal Palace originally raised in Gothic style and later, during thereign of King Matthias, rebuilt in Renaissance style has a fountainwhich ran not with water but with wine during VIP meetings. This toois a museum, one of the main features of which is a reconstruction(supported by the British) of the masterpiece red marble Herculesfountain. Exhibitions have been set up in some of the halls of therestored palace; period replica furniture can be seen in the one-timeprince’s suite. The palace gardens have been replanted with floraidentified from excavated fountains. Each summer a knight’stournament, strong man competition and medieval crafts fair areorganized in Visegrád. But Visegrád is not the only sight on theDanube Bend. A ferry ride across the Danube gets one to thecharming villages of Nagymaros, Kismaros and Verôce on theopposite bank, and there is always the wonderful Börzsöny for hikingand excursions. Several narrow-gauge forest railways operate here:ever since the change of regime the Nagybörzsöny Narrow-gaugeRailway has run between Nagybörzsöny and Nagyirtás, but from2008 trains once again set off from Szob. The other line linksKismaros with Királyrét. On certain weekends of the year, from springto autumn, train buffs can take the nostalgia locomotive to this resortspot not far from the capital. Exhausted excursionists have a greatchoice of Danube embankment cafés, restaurants and quietconfectioneries to rest in after a day’s exertions.

The Danube Bend region extends across the section of theDanube ringed by the Börzsöny, Visegrád and Pilis hills,embracing more than 60 towns and villages. Among these, one ofthe finest – complete with fine Danube embankment promenade –is the recently magnificently rehabilitated town of Vác.

A further 20 km north and the traveller comes to Esztergom,former royal town. Each year this more than 1000-year-oldsettlement (founded 973) – the first capital of the country, sitefor the baptism into the Christian Church of our first king, wherethe pagan rebel Koppány was cruelly executed and hisquartered remains hung on the city walls, seat of kings andarchbishops for centuries – attracts around 1 million visitors.Today the castle is a museum, and its reconstructed grand hallthe location for scientific conferences and conventions. Themost decorative part of the castle is the frescoed Royal Chapel.Hungary’s largest church, the Basilica, stands atop Castle Hill.Its red marble chapel, built on the commission of Archbishopof Esztergom Tamás Bakócz, is ranked as one of the finestworks of art to have survived in Hungary from the Renaissance.The Cathedral Treasury with its remarkable collection ofecclesiastical masterworks always attracts crowds. There is astatue of St. Stephen not far away, and the recently rebuiltMária Valéria Bridge also contributes to the delightful view ofthe surroundings. The Christian Museum in the Primate’sPalace has a valuable collection of medieval Italian paintings,gobelins, faience and porcelains.

Let’s return to Budapest and then set off in a south-westerlydirection. We are in for a trip back in time... several thousandyears! Visitors to Százhalombatta come upon Iron Age relics ofthe so-called Hallstatt culture. More than 100 tumuli preserve theremains of Iron Age dwellers who lived hereabouts. Huge pyreswere set ablaze on the Danube embankment in honour of thoserecently deceased, and their ashes were then hidden away inthe mounds made to carefully planned designs. One such gravehas survived in pristine condition, allowing archaeologists toreconstruct accurately the burial customs of yore; deep in thetumulus visitors can trace (aided by sound and light effects) thecourse of a burial ceremony as performed 4000 years ago.What’s more, it has been possible to reconstruct not only theburial ceremonies but the everyday life of Iron Age society too:

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house reconstructions, furnishings and clothing, and the verymeals eaten in millennia past. The third Sunday in every monthfrom May to September is given over to a Family Day whengroups and individual visitors will find the archaeological parkoffering special family-oriented programmes.

Martonvásár lies close to the M7 motorway 30 km fromBudapest. This tiny settlement became famed throughoutEurope thanks to the hospitality and love of music of theresident Brunswick family. Indeed, Ludwig van Beethoven wasa regular guest and music teacher at the attractive Brunswickmansion built originally in Baroque and later rebuilt in neo-Gothic style. Today Martonvásár remains a centre for theBeethoven cult: a museum set up in the mansion preservesitems related to the great composer, while each summeroutdoor concerts are staged in the delightful grounds.

Finally, if we leave the capital heading northeast, after 30 kmwe arrive in the town of Gödöllô, renowned for its associationwith Queen Elizabeth, wife of Franz Joseph, emperor of theAustro–Hungarian Monarchy. The restored Baroque palace,originally the Grassalkovich Mansion, was the favourite residenceof the queen, familiarly known by the Hungarians as Sissy. Thistruly imposing palace lovingly restored to its original glory has afascinating exhibition and regularly hosts cultural events andfestivals. A Baroque theatre operated in the south wing of themansion between 1785–1867. Following its complete restoration,opera performances are once again staged in Hungary’s onlysurviving original Baroque theatre (guided tours also available).

Szentendre, town of artists and skanzen This neat town with a decidedly Mediterranean feel to it liesbarely 20 km from Budapest (suburban trains departing fromBatthyány Square every 20 minutes reach it in 30-40 minutes),and it has gained a solid reputation as a popular touristexcursion spot. Szentendre has preserved its 18-19th centurycompact and unified layout. Its picturesque setting on theDanube, its architecture and historical monuments allcontributed to the formation over the years of colonies ofpainters, sculptors and artists who lived and still live today inSzentendre. Indeed, the very air seems to stimulate thecreative juices! The town warmly welcomes the visitor,

indulging them with its multitude of spectacular sights and afascinating artistic presence.

Longobard cemeteries and Avar memorials are to be foundhere, and there is a particularly strong Serbian culture all around,brought here by Serb communities fleeing a Turkish onslaught inthe late 17th century. Most of the houses which once belonged towealthy merchants are now museums, but the Greek Orthodoxchurches still function and visiting hours are fixed for timesbetween masses which dazzle the onlooker in all their Baroquepomp, as does the Rococo iconostasis. All the listed houses inthe centre have found new functions: a restaurant famedthroughout Hungary operates from the attic of one, and in anotherthe visitor is served fine cakes and coffee specialities in a cosycafé. There are gourmet delicacies for the body and enchantingexhibitions for the mind. In fact the galleries, workshops,exhibition centres and museums just come one after the other.Seven or eight galleries deal with the marketing of art. If anyonebecomes particularly interested in any one of the artists, a studiovisit can be arranged. An exhibition of works by Lajos Vajda,Dezsô Korniss, Endre Bálint and Piroska Szántó is set up in theHunyadi Street old merchant’s house, No. 1 Vastagh GyörgyStreet preserves ceramics by Margit Kovács whose works haveenjoyed international acclaim for many decades, while the art ofJenô Barcsay is displayed in Dumtsa Jenô Street.

It would be easy to spend a whole day strolling about thetown and along the Danube embankment, taking lunch andperhaps an afternoon coffee and cake, and yet there is stillanother important place to see. Szentendre is home to the first(and still the largest) skanzen or open-air museum in Hungary.This park displays the continual development of vernaculararchitecture from all the regions of Hungary in the form oforiginal buildings typical of their area carefully dismantled andrebuilt in their new home, the Szentendre skanzen. The roomscome fully furnished with period furniture, linens and beautifulneedlework characteristic of the region in question, thekitchens display fireplaces and pots and pans, the pantrieshave original containers for foods, sacks and wickerworkbaskets, while the stables are full of all the essentialequipment for animal husbandry. Museum experts revive theeveryday life and holidays of the old peasant way of living.

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MUSIC, THEATRES,events

Hungarian classical and folk music is world-renowned. The names and works of Béla Bartók, Zoltán Kodály and Franz (Ferenc) Liszt have won Hungarian culture a considerablereputation. The concert halls of the capital attract not only the best Hungarian artists, but also the greatest performers from every corner of the world. For more events and programmes go to www.budapestinfo.hu.

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Hungarian State Opera House B3VI., Andrássy út 22 ≥ 353-01701 Opera « 4, 6 % HUF 300–16 900

Budapest Operetta Theatre B3VI., Nagymezô utca 19 ≥ 353-2172ë 70, 78 % HUF 950–15 000

Ferenc Liszt Academy of MusicC3VI., Liszt F. tér 8 ≥ 462-4600« 4, 6 ë 70, 78 % Charges vary

Palace of Arts C4Bartók Béla National Concert HallFestival TheatreIX., Komor Marcell u. 1 ≥ 555-3000www.mupa.hu« 1, 2, 24 ç 23, 54 « Csepel,Ráckeve % Charges vary

National Theatre C4IX., Bajor Gizi park 1 ≥ 476-6800« 1, 2, 24 ç 23, 54 « Csepel,Ráckeve % HUF 1000–3900

Thália Theatre B3VI., Nagymezô u. 22–24 ≥ 312-4230ë 70, 78 % HUF 1000–5500

Madách Theatre C3VII., Erzsébet körút 29–33 ≥ 478-2041« 4, 6 % HUF 800–8900

Comedy Theatre B2XIII., Szent István krt. 14 ≥ 329-23403 Nyugati pu. « 2, 4, 6 ç 6 % 300–3200

Katona József Theatre B3V., Petôfi Sándor u. 6 ≥ 318-65993 Ferenciek tere % HUF 1000–3900

Trafó – House of Contemporary Arts C4IX., Liliom u. 41 ≥ 456-2040 www.trafo.hu«4, 6 3Ferenc krt. %HUF 1200–2500

Merlin International Theatre B3V., Gerlóczy utca 4 ≥ 317-93381 2 3 Deák tér % Charges vary

Duna Palace B3V., Zrínyi utca 5 ≥ 235-5500 ç 15 « 2 % Charges vary

Millenary Event Centre A2(Halls: Fogadó, Exhibition Hall, Attic, Park,Open-air Stage, Teátrum, Music Pavilion)II., Fény utca 20–22 ≥ 438-5335www.millenaris.hu« 4, 6 % Charges vary

Margaret Island and VárosmajorOpen-air Stages B1 / A3www.szabadter.hu ≥ 375-5922ç 26 « 4, 6 2 Moszkva tér % Charges vary

Budapest Congress & WorldTrade Center A4XII., Jagelló út 1–3 ≥ 372-5700ç 139 « 61 % Charges vary

National Dance Theatre B3I., Színház utca 1–3 ≥ 356-4085www.nemzetitancszinhaz.huç 5, 16, 178, « 18 % 600–3000 Ft

Major Budapest theatres and concert halls

The concert halls of the capital attract not only the best Hungarian artists, butalso the greatest performers from every corner of the world. Each year theBudapest Spring Festival and its counterpart the Budapest Autumn Festival hostthe very best of Hungarian and international music, theatre, film and fine arts.

High standard opera and ballet performances of the Hungarian State OperaHouse and the Palace of Arts consistently play to full houses, and the audiencecan experience classical works of music in their original tongue. The mostfamous Hungarian opera, Ferenc Erkel’s Bánk bán, and Béla Bartók’s beautifulballet The Miraculous Mandarin feature on programmes virtually all year round.Aside from the hit operas of Imre Kálmán, Jenô Huszka and Albert Szirmai(Countess Maritza, Baroness Lili, Miska the Magnate) playing in the BudapestOperetta Theatre, the programme is also spiced with world-famous musicals(Romeo and Juliet, Mozart!, Beauty and the Beast). Several other theatres alsofeature Hungarian and foreign musicals on their repertoires. The Merlin Theatreand IBS International Buda Stage most frequently perform works in English or inother languages featuring Hungarian and foreign artists.

The globetrotting Hungarian folklore ensembles (Hungarian State FolkEnsemble, Duna Artists Ensemble, Rajkó Orchestra etc.) regularly perform atthe National Dance Theatre, the Duna Palace and the House of Traditions.

The five-language monthly programme guide Budapest Panorama withdetailed information on all the capital’s cultural events and leisure opportunities is well worth scanning if you have justarrived in Budapest. Complimentary copies of Budapest Panorama can be found in hotels and information offices.

Ticket AgenciesCentral Ticket Office VI., Paulay Ede u. 31 ≥ 322-0000,322-0101 www.cultur-comfort.huó Mon–Fri: 9 am–6 pm

Box office of the National TheatreVI., Andrássy út 28 ≥ 373-0963,373-0964, 373-0995, 373-0996ó Mon–Fri: 10 am–6 pm, Sat: 11 am–7 pm

Broadway Ticket Office XIII., Hollán Ernô utca 10 (JászaiMari Square) ≥ 340-4883, 320-4830 ó Mon–Fri: 11 am–6 pm

Hungária Koncert Kft. /Duna PalotaV., Zrínyi utca 5. ≥ 317-1377, 317-2754 www.ticket.info.hu ó 9 am–6 pm

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1/01 Budapest New Year Concert www.budapestarena.hu1/01 New Year Concert of the London www.mupa.hu

Philharmonic Orchestra8/01 Concert of Andrea Rost opera singer and www.lfze.hu

the Orchestra of the Music Academy10-11/01 Vampires’ Ball musical www.vampirokbalja.com19/02-3/05 The Land of Myths – the art of Gustave Moreau www.szepmuveszeti.hu21/02 Budapest Opera Ball www.operabal.com26/02-1/03 TRAVEL Exhibition www.utazas.hungexpo.hu28/02 Dvorak Marathon www.mupa.hufrom March New Compositions exhibition in www.neprajz.hu

the Museum of Ethnography6-8/03 I. Hungarian Rythmic Gymnastics World Cup www.tornasport.hu10/03-10/07 Predators at the Hungarian Natural www.mttm.hu

History Museum12/03-31/05 New Compositions and antique works www.lumu.hu

of art – contemporary exhibition20/03-5/04 Budapest Spring Festival www.btf.hu20/03-7/06 The compliment of Woman – the exhibition www.szepmuveszeti.hu

of Alphonse Mucha, the Czech master of Art Nouveau24/03 Pink concert www.showtimebudapest.hu26/03-26/07 Budapest Art House – modern art exhibitions www.mng.huin Spring Scythian Royal Tombs exhibition www.hnm.hu11-13/04 Budapest Spring Wine Festival www.tavasziborfesztival.hu17-30/04 Dance Forum www.nezmetitancszinhaz.hu29/04-10/05 Mayfest – world stars in the Opera www.opera.huMay-June Homeward Bound – www.mupa.hu

Hungarian Folk Music Festival7-10/05 Budapest “Pálinka” Festival www.budapestipalinkafesztival.hu16-17/06 Mayfest of Museums www.hnm.hu

16-21/05 Jazz Spring – concert series www.mupa.hu30/05-1/06 National Gallop www.vagta.huJune Danube Carnival www.dunaart.comJune Festive Book Week www.mkke.huJune-August Summer on the Chain Bridge www.festivalcity.huJune-August Children’s Island www.gyereksziget.huat weekendsJune-Sept. Vampires’ Ball musical www.vampirokbalja.com19/06-6/09 The heritage of the Holy Land – treasures www.szepmuveszeti.hu

from the Israel Museum6/06-30/08 Summer Open Air Festival www.szabadter.hu11-28/06 Budapest Wagner Days www.mupa.hu12/06-9/08 Budapest Space–Film–Music Festival www.terfilmzene.hu12-14/06 Pannon Winefest www.pannonbor.hu23/06 Depeche Mode concert www.ticketpro.hu27/06 The Night of Museums www.muzeumokejszakaja.hu27/06 Connection Day Concert www.showtimebudapest.hu

(free open-air international megaconcert)July-August BudaFest – Summer Music Festival www.viparts.hu9-12/07 Dragonboat European Championship www.sarkanyhajozas.hu15/07-25/10 Turner and Italy exhibition www.szepmuveszeti.hu20/07-7/12 The World of Spices – The Spices www.mttm.hu

of the World exhibition23/07-25/10 József Borsos, painting and photo www.mng.hu

exhibition of the leader artist of biedermeier24-26/07 Formula 1 Hungarian Grand Prix www.hungaroring.hu28/07-14/08 Dance Evenings in the Carmelite Courtyard www.nezmetitancszinhaz.hu19-23/08 Wige Village www.borfalu.hu10-16/08 SZIGET Festival www.sziget.hu20/08 St. Steven’s Day State Celebrations www.budapestinfo.hu20-23/08 Festival of Folkarts www.nesz.hu22-23/08 European Garden Railway Convention www.vasuttortenetipark.hu

and Exhibition31/08-7/09 Summer Jewish Festival www.jewishfestival.humid Sept. Property Forum www.propertyforum.hu3-13/09 Budapest International Wine and www.winefestival.hu

Champagne FestivalSeptember Budafok Wine Festival www.budafokiborfesztival.hu4-6/09 Septemberfest www.szeptemberfeszt.hu6/09 Budapest Halfmarathon www.budapestmarathon.com9-13/09 MOL Budapest Jazz Festival www.bmc.hu9-13/09 Budapest Mahler Days www.mupa.hu17/09-11/10 Budapest Baroque Music Festival www.barokkfesztival.hu19-20/09 Cultural Heritage Days www.oroksegnapok.hu19-20/09 Central-European Steam Engine Grand Prix www.vasuttortenetipark.hu

and Dining Car Competitiontill 27/09 Legendary Creatures, magical flowers – www.neprajz.hu

the popular Renaissancemid October Design Week www.design7.huOct.–June Átány Exhibition – one of the outstanding www.neprajz.hu

collections of Hungarian ethnography9-11/10. Buda Castle “Pálinka” and Sausage Festival www.palinkaeskolbasz.hu9-18/10 Budapest Autumn Festival www.festivalcity.hu19-23/10 Vienna–Budapest Supermarathon www.szupermarathon.hu4/10 Budapest Marathon www.budapestmarathon.com28/10-14/02 Botticelli to Titian: Two Centuries of Italian www.szepmuveszeti.hu

Masterpieces5-8/11 Spa and Wellness + snowshow exhibition www.hungexpo.hu4/11-7/12 The Best Wildlife Photos of the World exhibition www.mttm.hu20/11-29/12 Budapest Christmas Fair www.budapestinfo.hu26-29/11 Budapest Art Fair www.mucsarnok.hu30/12 Festive concert

of the 100-member Gipsy Orchestra www.viparts.hu31/12 New Year’s Eve Opera Gala www.viparts.hu

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Bulgarian Cultural Institute B3VI., Andrássy út 14 ≥ 269-4246 www.bolgarkultura.com

Budapest Cervantes Institute C3VI., Vörösmarty utca 32 ≥ 354-3670www.budapest.cervantes.es

Czech Centre C3VI., Szegfû utca 4 ≥ 462-5066www.export.cz/budapest

French Institute B3I., Fô utca 17 ≥ 489-4200www.inst-france.hu

Goethe Institute C4IX., Ráday utca 58 ≥ 374-4070www.goethe.de/budapest

Polish Cultural Institute B3VI., Nagymezô utca 15 ≥ 311-5856,331-1168 www.lengyelintezet.hu

Italian Cultural Institute C3VIII., Bródy Sándor utca 8 ≥ 483-2040 www.iicbudapest.esteri.it

Russian Cultural Institute C2VI., Andrássy út 120 ≥ 332-2154 www.ruscenter.axelero.net

Austrian Cultural Institute C2VI., Benczúr utca 16 ≥ 351-1770 www.oesterreichinstitut.hu

Romanian Cultural Institute D2XIV., Izsó utca 5 ≥ 383-2693www.icr.ro/filiale/BUDAPESTA

Slovak Cultural Institute C3VIII., Rákóczi út 15 ≥ 372-4000www.mfa.sk

The British Council C2VI., Benczúr utca 26 ≥ 478-4700 www.britishcouncil.hu

Cultural Institutes in BudapestIt is often said that Budapest has more than enough to offer the visitor, whetherit is sightseeing or the huge diversity of the city’s cultural life. One of theinteresting features on this palette of programmes is the foreign culturalinstitutes. Scattered around the centre of town, these institutes arrangecountless exhibitions, concerts and performances mainly connected to theirown nation, naturally, but sometimes also involving the cultures of others. If youare interested in how the different countries represent themselves in Hungary,check out the website of the institute and pick your programme!

Internet booking:

www.ticket.info.huwww.tex.huwww.jegyelado.hu

www.atiket.huwww.musicmix.huwww.kulturinfo.huwww.interticket.huwww.jegymester.hu

Page 46: Budapest travel guide

LEISUREThanks to its great setting, Budapest is one of the greenest capitals inthe world: the Buda Hills, Margaret Island and the lovely parks in Pest

offer dozens of outdoor pursuits. The city is networked with cyclepaths, and in winter the City Park boating lake is transformed into

Central Europe’s largest open-air skating rink. With a Budapest Card you can try

out plenty of leisure activities at a discount.

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Margaret Island

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Margaret Island B1-2The historical monuments on this slender island runningbetween Árpád Bridge and Margaret Bridge date back to the11th century. The capital’s most beautiful park is on the island,and visitors strolling around come across a variety ofinteresting structures (the UNESCO-protected Water Tower,musical well, Open-air Stage, Church of St. Michael) and ruinsseveral centuries old (nunnery where Margaret, daughter ofKing Béla IV, lived, and the remains of two churches belongingto religious orders). And there is still more: a strand, swimmingpool, two hotels and a variety of restaurants and buffets. ç 26 « 4, 6

Gellért Hill B4A popular excursion destination for Budapesters and tourists dueto its attractive park and superb panoramas from the viewingterraces. The sights on the hill recall individual periods in history:the statue of Bishop St. Gellért that of pagan times, the Citadelthat of Habsburg oppression after the 1848-49 War ofIndependence, and the Liberty Monument towering over the citythe period after the Second World War. The Citadel, the mostimportant lookout point in the city, sits atop Gellért Hill and offersan unrivalled panorama of World Heritage Budapest including theBuda Castle district and both sides of the Danube embankment. ç 7, 86 « 18, 19, 41, 56

City Park C-D2The largest green belt expanse on the Pest side, a favoured placefor family outings, weekend entertainment and those looking for thetranquillity of nature. After draining and planting trees across thismarshy area (centuries early a royal hunting domain), an English-style park was established here in the 19th century. Towards theend of the century magnificent buildings and monuments (Museumof Fine Arts, Art Gallery, Millennium memorial, Vajdahunyad Castle)were erected for celebrations marking the thousandth anniversaryof the Magyar Conquest. City Park offers entertainment of all kindsand for all generations: Funfair, Zoo, Grand Circus, museums, spabath, boating lake and skating rink. 1 Hôsök tere, Széchenyi fürdô ë 70, 72, 75, 78

Buda Hills E1(Széchenyi Hill, Sváb Hill, János Hill, Hármashatár Hill)A mecca for nature lovers and excursionists, the Buda Hills (400-500 m) lie to the northwest of the city centre and offer visitorsexcellent air and endless forests with well marked tourist trails. Inaddition to walking and cycling, the most popular means of gettingaround for tourists include the cogwheel railway, the narrow-gaugerailway which (apart from the locomotive) is operated by children,and the chair-lift running up and down János Hill, which when theweather is fine offers a breathtaking panorama of the city. 2 Moszkva tér, and then Cogwheel railway or Chair-lift

Népliget D4The largest park on the Pest side, founded in the 1860s. Locatedto the southeast of the city centre, the 5-km-long, 112-hectarepark filled with trees, flowers and grass is a pleasant place to

stroll. Statues and memorials line the paths. The ‘Centenarium’park – established to mark the 100th anniversary of the unificationof Pest and Buda – forms a part of Népliget. The Planetarium, anestablishment of national significance, is also sited here. Visitorscan learn more about the wonders of astronomy, or enjoy laserprogrammes projected on to the dome (diameter: 23 m) withpop or classical music accompaniment. 3 Népliget ç 103 « 1, 1/A

SportEntertainment and health sports are becoming every morepopular in Budapest. The following is a list of just a few ofthe near countless fashionable sport offers around town.

Budapest Madness www.budapestmadness.com (+36-30)563-8239Active, fun-packed craziness for young tourists.

BowlingMammut Bowling ClubII., Lövôház utca 2–6 ≥ 345-8300 ó Sun–Thur: 10 am–1am, Mon, Fri–Sat: 10 am–3 am% HUF 450–850Strike Bowling ClubXI., Budafoki út 111–113 ≥ 206-2754 ó Mon–Thur: 2pm–1 am, Fri–Sat: 2 pm–3 am % HUF 660

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Parks, hills, nature protected areas

Budapest IV., Íves út 16. (to the north of the city centre, on the Pest side

of the M0 Megyeri Bridge)

≥ 2313 760

www.aqua-world.hu

ó 6 am–10 pm

The adventure pool is the largest indoor

water theme park in Central Europe with

a capacity of 1800 guests. It promises

unforgettable entertainment for all ages all

year round. The empire of waters is topped

by a five-storey-high dome with a diameter

of 72 m. There are 15 pools (including a

surf pool), 11 slides, a separate sauna

world and kids’ world, and open-air strand

in summer.

ç 30 % HUF 1500–6900 �22

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Fitness ClubsAstoria Fitness StudioV., Károly krt. 4 ≥ 317-0452 ó Mon–Fri: 6.30 am–midnight, Sat–Sun: 10am–9 pm % from HUF 1600Gold’s Gym – Mammut 2 II., Lövô-ház utca 2–6 ≥ 345-8544 ó Mon–Fri: 6.45 am–10.45 pm, Sat–Sun: 8 am–7.45 pm % HUF 4500Danubius Hotel ArenaXIV., Ifjúság útja 1–3 ≥ 889-5282 ó Mon–Fri: 6.30 am–10 pm,Sat–Sun: 7 am–9 pm % HUF 2700Park Hotel FlamencoXI., Tas vezér utca 7 ≥ 889-5761 ó Mon–Thur: 7 am–midnight, Sat–Sun:9 am–9 pm % HUF 2900–3900Római Fit-Forma StudioIII., Monostori út 31 ≥ 453-2901 ó Mon–Fri: 7 am–10 pm, Sat–Sun: 8am–4 pm % from HUF 1100

Go-CartBudaring Go-CartXI., Budaörsi út (at the Floracoopflower market) ≥ 247-4747 ó Mon–Fri: 11 am–10 pm, Sat–Sun:10 am–10 pm % 2000–2500

Skateboard, roller skatingGörzenálIII., Árpád fejedelem útja 125 ≥ 250-4800 ó March–Oct: Mon–Thur:2–7.30 pm, Fri: 12 am–7.30 pm, Sat–Sun: 9 am–7.30 pm % HUF 400–600

SquashA & TSHI., Pálya utca 9 ≥ 356-9530 ó Mon–Fri: 7 am–11 pm, Sat-Sun: 9am–9 pm % HUF 1400–2000City Squash & FitnessII., Marcibányi tér 13 ≥ 325-0082ó Mon–Fri: 7 am–midnight, Sat–Sun:8 am–10 pm % from HUF 1500

RidingFavorit Riding ClubXVI., Mókus u. 23 ó Tue–Fri: 2–6 pm, Sat–Sun: 9 am– 4.30 pm %HUF 1400–2200Petneházy Riding CentreII., Feketefej u. 2 ≥ 397-1208 ó Sat–Sun:12 am–5 pm % 2500–15 000 HUF

TennisRómai Tennis AcademyIII., Királyok útja 105 ≥ 240-8616 ó 7 am–10 pm % from HUF 2600

Városmajor Tennis AcademyXII., Városmajor u. 63–69 ≥ 202-5337 ó Mon–Fri: 7 am–10 pm, Sat: 7 am–7 pm,Sun: 8 am–7 pm % HUF 3700–5400

Not only for childrenAmusement Park of Budapest C2XIV., Állatkerti körút 14–16 ≥ 363-8310 www.vidampark.huó 10 am–6 pm (15–31 March, 1–2Nov); 10 am–7 pm (April, Oct Sat-Sun); midday–6 pm (April, Oct Mon-Fri); 11 am–7 pm (May, June, SeptMon–Fri); 10 am–8 pm (June, SeptSat–Sun; July, Aug Mon–Sun) 1 Széchenyi fürdô ë 72 % HUF 2300–3900Everyday is funday with Daily pass!

Municipal Zoo and Botanical Garden C2XIV., Állatkerti körút 6–12 ≥ 273-4901 ó March and October: Mon–Thur: 9am–5 pm, Fri–Sun: 9 am–5.30 pm;April and September: Mon–Thur: 9am–5.30 pm, Fri–Sun: 9 am–6 pm;May, June, July, Aug: Mon–Thur: 9am–6.30 pm, Fri–Sun: 9 am–7 pm;Jan, Feb, Nov: Mon-Sun: 9 am–4 pm1 Széchenyi fürdô ë 72 % HUF 1190–4800

Railway History Park D1XIV., Tatai út 95 ≥ 450-1497, 238-0558www.vasuttortenetipark.hu ó 15–28Mar: 10 am–3 pm, 29 Mar–3 Nov: 10am–6 pm, 4 Nov–14 Dec: 10 am–3 pmç 30 « 14 % HUF 300–2400

Ice Terrace B2WestEnd City Center Roof GardenVI., Váci út 1–3 www.jegterasz.huó Mon–Thur, Sun: 8 am–10 pm,Fri–Sat: 8 am–12 pm; mini hockey:Fri–Sat: 8 am–midnightç 206 « 4, 6 3 Nyugati pu. % HUF 600–1400

Palace of Wonders (in Millenary) B2II., Fény utca 20–22 ≥ 366-4044ó Mon–Fri: 9 am–5 pm, Sat–Sun: 10am–6 pm« 4, 6 % HUF 800–4700

Budapest Puppet Theatre C3VI., Andrássy út 69 ≥ 321-52001 Vörösmarty utca % from HUF 800

Kolibri Theatre B-C3VI., Jókai tér 10 ≥ 312-0622« 4, 6 1 Oktogon % Charges vary

Municipal Grand Circus C2XIV., Állatkerti körút 12 ≥ 343-8300 ó please make enquiries on theabove number 1 Széchenyi fürdô ë 72 % HUF 1200–2400

Aquaréna Mogyoród aquaparkF1Mogyoród, Vízipark út 1 (next toHungaroring racetrack) ≥ (06-28)541-100 ó 23 May–31 Aug: 9 am–7 pm % HUF 3800–5200

Tropicarium Budapest E2Campona Shopping MallXXII., Nagytétényi út 37–43 ≥ 424-3053 ó 10 am–8 pm ç 33 (from Móricz Zsigmond Circus),213, 214 (from Kosztolányi DezsôSquare) % HUF 1200–1900

Planetarium D4X., Népliget ≥ 263-1811 óTue–Thur: 9.30 am–5.30 pm, Fri–Sun:9.30 am–4 pm 3 Népliget « 1, 1/Aç 103 % HUF 890–1200

Chair-lift E1Zugliget-János Hill ≥ 394-3764 ó 10 am–4 pm ç 156 % HUF 200–1000

Buda Castle Funicular Railway B2Operating between Clark Ádám Squareand Buda Castle. ó 7.30 am–10 pm.No service on even Monday ç 16, 86 « 19, 41 %HUF 500–1400

Cogwheel Railway E1II., Szilágyi Erzsébet fasor 14–16 ≥ 355-4167 ó Trains run from 5 am–11 pm « 56, 18 % HUF 270

Children’s Railway E1Széchenyi Hill and Hûvösvölgy ≥ 397-5392 ó all year round, closedon Mondays between Sept–Octç 256 « 56, 18, cogwheel railway% HUF 300–1200

Brigóhintó (family pedal ‘bikes’) B1XIII., Margitsziget, Hajós A. sétány 1≥ 329-2746 ó 8 am–dusk ç 26 % from HUF 1500

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SHOPPINGJust as in any metropolis anywhere in the world so too in Budapest there are

thousands of temptations to get out and shop, although it’s not a bad idea to

know beforehand what is especially worth taking home as a souvenir and which are the best quality

Hungarian products. Take one of our suggested shoppingroutes and discover those quality souvenirs which will

always remind you of the Hungarian capital!

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Let’s start our shopping tour at the Herend porcelain shop atAndrássy út 16: a visit is almost like stepping into an exhibitionof exclusive applied arts. Herend porcelain is, quite rightly, oneof the industries Hungary is most proud of. Over the yearsHerend hand-painted vases, plates and dinner services havewon several gold medals at world expos. One pattern is namedafter Queen Victoria because the now-famous butterfly designwas first made for her. In a similarly fashion, a Persian motif isnamed after Sissy, empress of the Austro-Hungarian Empire,and a remarkable bird pattern is linked to the Rothschilds.

From Andrássy Boulevard it is just a short walk toVörösmarty Square, home of the city’s most distinguishedconfectionery and café, Gerbeaud. It is well worthstopping off at Gerbeaud for a coffee and slice of cakeserved amidst an inimitable old-time milieu.

Fashion StreetBudapest’s “Fashion Street”- structured along the lines ofLondon’s Regent Street or Milan’s Via Montenapoleone – runsalong Deák Ferenc Street joining Deák Square with VörösmartySquare. The goal of investors is to lift Budapest back onto thepedestal of fashion capital of Central Europe. Shop displays witha total floor area of 12,000 sqm are on the ground and first floorsof the restored blocks along Fashion Street: most internationalbrands can be found here including Tommy Hilfiger, Boss, Mexx,byblos, roccobarocco, Lacoste, Sisley, Benetton, S. Oliver,Puma, Karl Lagerfeld, Polo Ralph Lauren, Just Cavalli and Gian-carlo Ferre men’s and women’s fashionwear, Zengarini andLloyd footwear, plus a Vapiano restaurant and Long Bart, too.

As one might expect, Fashion Street is all about quality.The street’s superb central position – next to several luxuryhotels, nestling in a unique historical and cultural atmos-phere, surrounded by tourist sights, banks, state institutionsand the offices of top international commercial corporations– is the perfect environment for perfect fashions.

Magyar designAlthough not restricted to a single street, it is still well worththe trouble uncovering the fashion scene in Budapest asdictated by Hungarian designers at the forefront ofinternational fashion.

Clothes, shoes, bags and accessories by five designers areavailable in the Balllon Showroom, Újlipótváros. Bolt in KertészStreet and Eclektic in Irányi also stock pieces by youngdesigners. One of the newly opened shops for contemporaryfashion is Chee Chee close to the Opera; Lollipop on VáciStreet is another. Astoria MONO has everything from theleading brands through to all that is chic and one-off, while thenearby INSITU provides everything in one place: fashion,children’s clothes, gifts, interior design, retro collections, andthe latest works by artists and designers. Öltözô offers theshopper unique or short-run clothes, bags and accessories,whereas VOLT BOLT is primarily an outlet for limited edition T-shirts and presents. Retrock sells selected clothes that cannotbe obtained elsewhere. Artista is the place for everyday wear,made from quality textiles sourced in London and Milan. Thenow world-famous Nanushka continually experiments byreinterpreting tailoring methods and forms. Collections by the

Vietnamese fashion designer ANH TUAN – besides being fullof contrasts – are the embodiment of modern luxury. The Jesuis belle style speaks of lightness, playfulness, elegance andfemininity combined; the brand can also be purchased inBerlin, Zurich and Vienna.

The monthly Wasárnapi MûvészPiac (WAMP) is stagedin Erzsébet Square (in the old coach station) in summer,and in the Gödör Club in winter. Silversmiths, graphicartists, textile artists, ceramic artists, glassmakers, re-cycling artists, toymakers as well as several famousgalleries and top Hungarian designers market theirmodern design creations here.

Along Váci StreetVáci Street linking Vörösmarty Square with Fôvám Squarerepresents the main artery of the inner city. A stroll down “Váciutca” takes one past jewellers, perfumeries, brand nameclothes shops from Marks and Spencer to Cottonfield, a C&Astore, boutiques and bijouteries. But leave time for the foreignlanguage bookshop selling translated works by severalHungarian authors. Then again, don’t forget to slide off downone or two of the side streets: you’ll discover boutiques andwine shops marketing the very finest quality Hungarian redsand whites. Famous Szamos marzipan is available in PárizsiStreet, and the confectionery’s ice cream is outstanding too.And since the number of shops that can be squeezed onto thestreet level is finite, enterprising Hungarians have movedunderground: three shopping centres have been created out

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of old cellars. One shop in Fehérhajó Street sells healingminerals, and in the middle of Váci Street others trade inantique furniture, porcelain and kid’s clothing. In the meantimedon’t forget to direct your eyes upwards occasionally: most ofthe buildings in the heart of town were raised in the late 1800s,among them there are several outstanding examples. TheCsók Gallery on the corner of Pesti Barnabás Street displaysand retails works by modern Hungarian artists, but if you areinterested in antiques, you’ll find them here too.

At Elizabeth Bridge an underpass takes us on to thecontinuation of Váci Street. Passing the Downtown AuctionHouse (Belvárosi Aukciósház), it’s fascinating to scan theregularly changing collection of shopwindow “treasures”small and large.

Central Market Hall Continuing up Váci Street, we finally reach the ever-buzzingBudapest Central Market Hall with its incredible variety ofquality foods. Encompassed within a building more than100 years old, the market with its paprika garlands, stringsof garlic, the fruits, vegetables, and on the first floor theflower-sellers and snack bars offering true tastes ofHungary create a kaleidoscope of colours, sounds,aromas, sights. Typical Hungarian merchandise, forinstance the world famous Tokaj Aszú, is to be found in the

market. Unicum is one of the top bitters spirits in the world.Its absolutely unique flavour derives from a secret blend ofaromatic herbs. Apricot and plum brandies faithfullypreserve the scent and flavour of the fruits they are distilledfrom. Whether marketed tinned or in an earthenware pot,Hungarian goose liver is excellent, and Herz and Picksalamis are similarly “hungaricum” products! Daily from 10am in the “Fakanál” restaurant: cooking class under theguidance of a master chef. Learn how to cook some of themost popular Hungarian dishes. An expert sommelier holdsa wine tasting session and at the same time speaks aboutthe most famous wines from the Hungarian wine regions.

The new Király StreetTake a stroll down the finely restored Király Street (between DeákSquare and Nagymezô Street) complete with new paving andArt Nouveau lampposts! In keeping with the spirit of tradition, ithas been repopulated with furniture and interior design shops.Most offer individually designed, expensive items: everythingfrom oriental to Italian and Scandinavian design. The street,which runs parallel to Andrássy Road and at one time was a hubfor business and cultural life in Budapest, has begun toreawaken and buzz with life around its attractive coffeeshops,restaurants and galleries. The rehabilitated Gozsdu Court (seepage 32) can be accessed from Király utca 13.

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ANH TUAN ShowroomVI., Rózsa utca 74 ≥ (+36 20) 4444-704www.anh-tuan.com

ARTISTA ShowroomVIII., Puskin utca 19 II/5 ≥ 328-0290www.artistafashion.com

Balllon ShowroomXIII., Visegrádi u. 19 ≥ (+36 30) 515-6006 ó Mon–Fri: 12 am–7 pmwww.karattur.com

Bolt – Hungarian Designers Shop VII., Kertész utca 42–44 ó Mon–Fri:11 am–7 pm, Sat: 11 am–3 pmwww.boltmuhely.hu

Chee Chee VI., Zichy Jenô utca 34 ≥ (+36 30) 609-3683 ó Mon–Fri: 11 am–7 pm, Sat: 12 am–4 pm

ECLECTICK V., Irányi utca 20 ≥ 266-3341 ó Mon–Fri: 10 am–7 pm, Sat: 11 am–4 pmwww.eclectick.hu

INSITU Home and Fashion V., Múzeum körút 7 ≥ 266-3080 ó Mon–Fri: 10 am–7 pm, Sat: 11 am–3 pmwww.insitu.hu

Je Suis Belle V., Ferenciek tere 11 IV. floor (PárizsiCourt) ≥ (+36 20) 313-0557ó Mon–Fri: 10 am–6 pm, by priorarrangementwww.jesuisbelle.hu

Lollipop ShopV., Váci utca 45 ó Mon–Fri: 10.30am–7 pm, Sat: 10 am–3 pmwww.myspace.com/nyalokamoka

Mono V., Kossuth Lajos utca 20 ≥ (+36 20) 772-5273 ó Mon–Fri: 10 am–8 pm, Sat: 10 am–6 pmwww.monofashion.hu

Nanushka Showroom I., Csónak utca 9 ≥ 202-1050, 214-1729ó Mon–Fri: 10 am–6 pm www.nanushka.hu

Öltözô – young designers clothes shopVI., Hajós utca 26/Aó Mon–Fri: midday–6 pm

RETROCK – Cutting Edge Fashion V., Ferenczy I. utca 28 ≥ 318-1007ó Mon–Fri: 10.30 am–7.30 pm, Sat: 10.30 am–3.30 pmwww.retrock.com

Retrock Deluxe V., Henszlmann Imre utca 1ó Mon–Fri: 10.30 am–7.30 pm, Sat: 10.30 am–3.30 pmwww.myspace.com/retrockdeluxeshop

VOLT BOLT VII., Klauzál tér 14.ó Mon–Fri: 11 am–7 pm, Sat: 11 am–4 pmwww.voltbolt.hu

WAMP (Sunday Artmarket) V., Erzsébet Square / Gödör Clubó all-day design fair staged monthly

OUTLETS of hungarian designers:

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RESTAURANTScafés Hungarian cuisine is world famous

despite being characterized by slightly spicier, heartier dishes than the average. The establishments listed inour restaurant guide are places where you should have no hesitation in trying

out the finest of traditional and reform Hungarian cooking, thus launchingyourself on a journey of discovery, whether at the more

expensive end of the scale or at the opposite end. Look out for restaurants

welcoming Budapest Card!

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Bagolyvár Restaurant

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RESTAURANTS�1 A38 Hajó** XI., Buda side of Petôfi Bridge ≥ 464-3946 www.a38.huó 11 am–midnightInternational cuisine, inspired desserts;Menu published on the website�2 Admirál**V., Belgrád rakpart, Internationalboat station ≥ 318-0723ó midday–11 pmHungarian cuisine; Sited on theDuna embankment�3 Alabárdos****I., Országház utca 2 ≥ 356-0851ó Mon–Fri: 7–11 pm, Sat: midday–4pm, 7–11 pm, closed SundayHungarian cuisine�4 Arany Bárány**V., Harmincad utca 4 ≥ 317-2703ó midday–midnightHungarian and international cuisine;lamb dishes a speciality�5 Arany Kaviár****I., Ostrom utca 19 ≥ 201-6737ó midday–midnightRussian cuisine �6 Aranyszarvas**I., Szarvas tér 1 ≥ 375-6451ó midday–11 pmHungarian and game dishes �7 Bagolyvár**XIV., Állatkerti út 2 ≥ 468-3110 ó midday–11 pmHome-made cooking, Hungarian dishes�8 Belcanto****VI., Dalszínház utca 8 ≥ 269-2786ó Mon–Sat: midday–3 pm, 6 pm–2 amFamous singers, singing waiters;salon orchestra �9 Biarritz***V., Kossuth tér 19–23 ≥ 311-4413 ó Mon–Fri: 9 am–11 pm, Sat–Sun:10 am–11 pmClose by Parliament; dishes cookedon lava; special desserts�10 Café Pierrot***I., Fortuna utca 14 ≥ 375-6971ó 11 am–midnightIntimate atmosphere, piano music in theevening; Choice of international dishes�11 Callas**** VI., Andrássy út 20. ≥ 354-0954 ó Tue–Fri: 8 am–midnight,Sat–Sun: 10 am–midnightInternational flavours andHungarian dishes

�12 Carne di Hall***I., Bem rakpart 20 ≥ 201-8137 ó midday–midnightMecca for meat eaters, huge steaks,superb wine selection�13 Champs Sport Pub*VII., Dohány utca 20 ≥ 413-1655 ó midday–2 amSports broadcasts on 2 giantscreens and 33 TVs; fitness kitchen�14 Champs Sport Pub Buda**II., Erôd utca 22 ≥ 201-0569 ó midday–1 amA favourite with sportsmen,sportswomen and fans�15 Cyrano****V., Kristóf tér 7–8 ≥ 266-3096ó 11.30 am–midnightHealthy eating: poultry, fish, plenty ofvegetables, steaks and Hungarian dishes�16 Donatella’s Kitchen***VI., Király utca 30–32 ≥ 878-0515 ó midday–midnightAuthentic Italian flavours, fine Italianand Hungarian wines�17 Dzsungel Café and Restaurant***VI., Jókai utca 30 ≥ 302-4003 ó midday–1 amOffering guests four redesigned rooms(savannah, jungle, pirates, ocean).�18 Fakanál*IX., Fôvám tér (Central Market Hall,upstairs) ≥ 217-7860 ó Mon–Fri: 10am–7 pm, Sat: 10 am–2 pmHomemade, cheap meals, rapid service �19 Fausto’s****VI., Székely Mihály u. 2 ≥ 877-6210ó Mon–Fri: midday–3 pm, 7–11 pm, Sat:6–11 pm, closed Sunday and holidaysItalian cuisine�20 Firkász**XIII., Tátra utca 18 ≥ 450-1118ó midday–midnightThe favourite restaurant for locals;retro milieu; homemade dishes, greatdrinks selection�21 Fortuna***I., Hess András tér 4 ≥ 375-6857ó 7 pm–midnightHungarian and internationalspecialities�22 Fuji Japanese Restaurant***II., Csatárka utca 54 (corner ofZöldlomb Street and Zöldkert Street)≥ 325-7111 ó midday–11 pmSushi open kitchen

�23 Fülemüle*** VIII., Kôfaragó u. 5 ≥ 266-7947 ó Sun–Thur:midday–10 pm, Fri–Sat: midday–11 pmHungarian, European, Jewish cuisine�24 Goa****VI., Andrássy út 8 ≥ 302-2570 ó midday–midnightChic and trendy; international andfusion cuisine �25 Gundel**** XIV., Állatkerti út 2 ≥ 468-4040ó midday–4 pm, 6.30 pm–midnightCuisine famed throughout Europeserved in historical surroundings�26 Kaltenberg Restaurant**IX., Kinizsi utca 30–36 ≥ 215-9792 ó midday–11 pmLocally brewed beers, Hungarianand international dishes�27 Kárpátia****V., Ferenciek tere 7–8 ≥ 317-3596 ó 11 am–11 pmTraditional and new cuisine in ahistorical milieu �28 Kéhli**III., Mókus utca 22 ≥ 250-4241 ó midday–midnightThe favourite haunt of 19th centurywriter Gyula Krúdy; don’t leave withoutsampling the bone marrow soup �29 Kisbuda Gyöngye***III., Kenyeres utca 34 ≥ 368-6402ó Mon–Thur: midday–11 pm,Fri–Sat: midday–midnightComfortable, homely surroundings�30 Kispipa ***VII., Akácfa utca 38 ≥ 342-2587ó midday–midnightHungarian and international dishes;live piano from 7 pm�31 Klassz Restaurant and Wine Bar**VI., Andrássy út 41 ó Mon–Sat.:11.30 am–11 pm, Sun: 11.30 am–6 pmA really great place with excellentand reasonably priced food, althoughno reservations or telephone �32 Kogart Restaurant & Café***VI., Andrássy út 112 ≥ 354-3830 ó 10 am–midnightElegant milieu, high-standard service.International and dietary dishes,excellent Hungarian wine cellar�33 Kôleves (Stonesoup Restobar)**VII., Kazinczy utca 35. ≥ 322-1011ó 11 am–midnightA favourite among locals; menu forHUF 900; fantastic “stone soup” anddiabetic dessert for free

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Cost of average two-course meal per person, including service but without drinks: less than HUF 3000 (*), HUF 3000–5000 (**), HUF 5000–7000 (***), over HUF 7000 (****)

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RESTAURANTS

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�34 Malomtó***II., Frankel Leó utca 48 ≥ 336-1830 ó midday–10 pmClose to Lukács Baths with an atmos-pheric lakeside terrace; rich choice ofOriental flavours, international cuisine�35 Manna EUthentic lounge***I., Palota út 17 www.mannalounge.com≥ 20/999-9188 ó midday–midnight Restaurant above tunnel; genuineFrenc, Italian and Hungarian cuisine�36 Mátyás Pince****V., Március 15. tér 7 ≥ 266-8008 ó midday–midnightHungarian cuisine�37 Mozsár**VI., Mozsár utca 12. ≥ 331-8942ó midday–11 pmHome cooking and international cuisine �38 Múzeum Café & RestorantVIII., Múzeum körút 12 ≥ 267-0375ó Mon–Sat: midday–midnightHungarian cuisine�39 Náncsi Néni Vendéglôje**II., Ördögárok utca 80 ≥ 397-2742ó midday–11 pmFamily-style restaurant with a largegarden; Table reservation recommended�40 Onyx*** V., Vörösmarty tér 7 ≥ 429-9023ó Mon–Sat: midday–3 pm, 6–11 pmClassically elegant, Hungarian andinternational cuisine�41 Pest-Buda***I., Fortuna utca 3 ≥ 212-5880 ó midday–11 pmHungarian and international cuisine

�42 Pilvax**V., Pilvax köz 1–3 ≥ 266-7660 ó midday–11 pmDelicious Hungarian dishes,historical wines�43 Pomo D’Oro**V., Arany János utca 9 ≥ 302-6473 ó Mon–Fri: 11 am–midnight,Sat–Sun: midday–midnightPopular spot in the business quarter;excellent Italian dishes�44 Régi Sípos Halászkert**III., Lajos utca 46 ≥ 368-6480 ó midday–midnightFamily-style inn, Hungarian fish dishes�45 Remíz***II., Budakeszi út 5 ≥ 275-1396 ó Mon–Fri: 9 am–11 pm, Sat–Sun:11 am–11 pmClose to the tram depot, family-stylecatering; Dishes cooked on lava�46 Rivalda***I., Színház utca 5–9 ≥ 489-0236 ó 11.30 am–11.30 pmModern European, international cuisine�47 Robinson ****XIV., Városligeti-tó ≥ 422-0222ó midday–4 pm, 6 pm–midnightInternational, Mediterranean cuisine�48 Rosenstein **VIII., Mosonyi utca 3 ≥ 333-3492ó Mon–Sat: midday–11 pmHome-made cooking, traditionalJewish dishes�49 Shalimar**VII., Dob utca 50 ≥ 352-0305 ó midday–4 pm, 6–11 pmIndian flavours; eight kinds of bread,vegetarian dishes

�50 Sinatra***V., Képíró utca 3 ≥ 483-0887 ó midday–11 pmTraditional Hungarian and inter-national cuisine, live jazz every day�51 Sir Lancelot***VI., Podmaniczky u. 14 ≥ 302-4456ó midday–1 amPleasant medieval atmosphere, hugehelpings, good wines; Renaissancemusic and show �52 Sörházpince – Gerbeaud-Ház** V., Vörösmarty tér 8 ≥ 429-9022 ó midday–11 pmRustic furnishings; Hungarian andinternational cuisine; snacks�53 Spoon Café & Lounge***V., Vigadó tér, quay No. 3 (in front ofthe Hotel Inter·Continental on theembankment) ≥ 411-0933 ó midday–midnightA spooful of pleasure on the elegant“ship-restaurant”�54 Tom-George***V., Október 6. utca 8 ≥ 266-3525ó Mon–Thur: midday–midnight,Fri–Sat: midday–1 amInternational cuisine; trendy setting�55 Új Sipos **III., Fô tér 6 ≥ 388-8745 ó midday–11 pmHungarian, international flavours�56 Vadrózsa****II., Pentelei Molnár utca 15 ≥ 345-0426 ó midday–3 pm, 7 pm–midnightSmall Baroque villa offering aromantic dinner setting

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�1 Alkoholos Filc CaféI., Várfok utca 15/Bó Mon–Sat: 9 am–10 pm�2 Ba Bar VII., Huszár utca 7 ≥ 06-20-919-7979 ó 11.30 am–1 am�3 Beckett’sV., Bajcsy-Zsilinszky út 72 311-1035 ó Sun–Thur: midday–1 am, Fri–Sat:midday–2 am�4 Bon CaféV. , Károly körút 10≥ 266-4230 ó Mon–Fri: 8 am–8 pm,Sat: 9 am–2 am �5 Café PonyvaregényXI., Bercsényi utca 5 ≥ 209-5255ó midday–2 am�6 Centrál Café V., Károlyi Mihály utca 9 ≥ 266-2110ó 8 am–midnight�7 Clock CaféXII., Nagyenyed út 3 ≥ 225-0845ó midday–1 am

�8 Dunapark CaféXIII., Pozsonyi út 38 ≥ 786-1009ó Mon–Sat: 8 am–midnight, Sun: 10am–midnight�9 Európa CaféV., Szent István körút 7–9 ≥ 312-2362ó 9 am–11 pm (summer), 9 am–10pm (winter)�10 FargerV., Zoltán u. 18 www.farger.huó Mon–Fri: 7 am–10 pm, Sat–Sun: 9am–5 pm (summer), Mon–Fri: 7 am–9 pm, Sat–Sun: 9 am–4 pm (winter)�11 Gerbeaud V., Vörösmarty tér 7 ≥ 429-9000 ó 9 am–9 pm�12 Gerlóczy CaféV., Gerlóczy u. 1 ≥ 235-0953 ó Mon–Fri: 7 am–11 pm, Sat–Sun: 8 am–11 pm �13 Gusto CaféII., Frankel Leó u.12. ≥ 316-3970ó Mon–Fri: 10 am–10 pm, Sat: 10am–4 pm

�14 Lukács VI., Andrássy út 70 ≥ 373-0407ó Mon–Fri: 8.30 am–8 pm, Sat: 9am–8 pm, Sun: 9.30 am–8 pm�15 Menta TerraceXII., Margit körút 14 ≥ 336-1250ó Sun–Wed.: 11–2am, Thur–Sat: 11–4 am�16 Miró CaféI., Úri utca 30 ≥ 201-5573 ó 9 am–midnight�17 Mûvész VI., Andrássy út 29 ≥ 352-1337 ó 9 am–midnight�18 New York CaféVII., Erzsébet körút 9–11 ≥ 886-6167 ó Mon–Fri: 10 am–midnight,Sat–Sun: 9 am–midnight�19 RuszwurmI., Szentháromság u. 7 ≥ 375-5284ó 10 am–9 pm�20 Soho CaféI., Fô utca 25 ≥ 201-3807 ó Mon– Fri: 8 am–9 pm, Sat–Sun: 9am-9 pm

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�1 Barokko VI., Liszt Ferenc tér 5ó Sun– Wed: midday–1 am,Thur–Sat: midday–3 am�2 Birdland VI., Liszt Ferenc tér 7≥ 413-7983 ó 11 am–midnight�3 Buena Vista VI., Liszt F. tér 4–5≥ 344-6303 ó 11 am–midnight �4 Café Miro Grande VI., Liszt F.tér 9 ≥ 321-8666 ó 10 am–1 am �5 Café Vian VI., Liszt Ferenc tér 9≥ 268-1154 ó 9 am–1 am

�6 Fresco VI., Liszt Ferenc tér 10 ≥ 411-0915 ó Mon–Thur, Sun:midday– midnight, Fri–Sat: midday–1 am�7 Incognito VI., Liszt Ferenc tér 3≥ 342-1471 ó Sun–Tue, Sun: 2pm–1 am, Wed–Sat: 2 pm–3am�8 Karma VI., Liszt F. tér 11 ≥ 413-6764 ó 11 am–2 am �9 La Rosa VI., Liszt Ferenc tér 3≥ 06-70/405-0601 ó 10 am–midnight

�10 Mediterrán Café VI., Liszt F. tér 10 ≥ 344-4615 ó 11.30 am–midnight�11 Menza VI., Liszt Ferenc tér 2 ≥ 413-1482 ó 10 am–midnight�12 Moyo Café VI., Liszt Ferenc tér10. ≥ 342-4457 ó 10 am–midnight �13 Passion VI., Liszt Ferenc tér 10≥ 268-0199 ó 11 am–midnight�14 Pompeí VI., Liszt Ferenc tér 3≥ 351-8738 ó 11 am–1 am

Restaurants and cafés in Liszt Ferenc Square

�1 Caramia IX., Ráday utca 31≥ 215-8079 ó 11 am–midnight�2 Fecske Presszó IX., Rádayutca 34. ≥ 215-2738 ó Mon–Fri: 9–1am, Sat–Sun: 1 pm–1 am

�3 Fotocella IX., Ráday utca 17 ≥ 215-3248 ó Mon–Thur: 11 am–1 am, Fri–Sat: 11 am–2 am, Sun: midday–2 am

�4 Gotti IX., Ráday utca 29 ≥ 217-6625 ó Sun–Thur: midday–midnight, Fri–Sat: midday–1 am�5 IF Music Café IX., Ráday u. 19

Restaurants and cafés in Ráday Street and Kálvin Square

Cafés, Bars

Gerbeaud

�57 First Strudel House of Pest– Café and Restaurant**V., Október 6. utca 22. ≥ 428-0135 ó Mon–Fri: 9 am–11pm, Sat–Sun: 11 am–11 pm Tablereservations and orders for strudels:[email protected] • www.reteshaz.comTurn-of-the-century milieu; tradi-tional Hungarian dishes; home-made strudels; function room.

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�1 Buddha BeachIX., Közraktár utca 9–11 ≥ 210-4872 ó all Summerwww.buddha-beach.hu

�2 Café del Rió XI., GoldmanGyörgy tér 1./Buda side of PetôfiBridge www.rio.hu ó Daily 2 pm–5 amfrom April to the end of September

�3 Zöld PardonXI., Buda side of Petôfi Bridgewww.zp.huó all Summer

Open-air clubs

�1 Alcatraz VII., Nyár utca 1 ≥ 478-6010 ó Sun–Wed: 4 pm–2am, Thur–Sat: 4 pm–4 am�2 Columbus Pub & Jazz ClubV., Vigadó tér Quay No. 4 (in front of the Hotel Inter·Continentalon the embankment) ≥ 266-9013 ó midday–midnight�3 Cotton Club Restaurant VI., Jókai utca 26 ≥ 354-0886 ó midday–midnight�4 Fat Mo’s V., Nyári Pál utca 11 ≥ 267-3199 ó Mon–Wed, Sun: 6pm–2 am, Thur–Sat: 6 pm–4 am�5 For Sale Pub V., Vámház körút2 ≥ 267-0276 ó midday–3 am

�6 Fôbe-járat VII., Károly krt. 5. ≥ (+36 30)383-4575 www.fobejarat.com�7 Inside IX., Közraktár utca 9www.clubinside.hu�8 Janis’ Pub V., Királyi Pál utca 8 ≥ 266-2619 ó Mon–Thur: 4 pm–2 am, Fri–Sat: 4pm–3 am, Sun: 6 pm–midnight�9 Jazz Garden V., Veres Pálnéutca 44/A ≥ 266-7364 ó 6 pm–1 am�10 Macskafogó Music Pub V., Nádor u. 29 ≥ 06-30/921-4666 ó Thur: 8 pm–3 am,Fri–Sat: 8 pm–4 am�11 Mono ElectroniClub VI., Ó utca51 www.monoklub.hu�12 Morrison’s Music Pub OperaVI., Révay u. 25. ≥ 269-4060ó Mon–Sat: 9 pm–4 am; freeadmission until 9 pm

�13 Morrison’s Music Pub 2V., Honvéd u. 40. ≥ 374-3329ó Mon–Sat: 5 pm–4 am; freeadmission until 9 pm, concerts start:9.30 pm �14 Old Man’s VII., Akácfa utca 13≥ 322-7645 ó 3 pm–4 am�15 Picasso Point Music ClubVI., Hajós utca 31. ≥ 312-1727ó Mon–Thur: 5 pm–2 am, Fri–Sat: 5pm–4 am; Fri–Sat: disco from 11 pm�16 Snapsz Café & GalleryVII., Király utca 95 ≥ 321-5323ó Mon-Sat: midday-midnight�17 Szilvuplé VI,. Ó utca 33. ≥ 302-2499 óThur–Sat: 12 am–12 pm, Sun-Wed:12 am–2 amConcerts start 8 pm, all programmesfree

Jazz clubs, night clubs

�1 Balettcipô VI., Hajós utca 14 269-3114 ó Mon–Fri: 10

am–midnight, Sat–Sun:midday–midnight�2 Car Wash Bár VI., Hajós utca25. ≥ 06-20/232-4548 ó Mon–Sat:10 am–1 am, Sun: midday–midnight�3 Chagall VI., Hajós utca 2 ≥ 302-4614 ó 9 am–midnight

�4 Két Szerecsen VI., Nagymezôu. 14 ≥ 343-1984 ó 9–1 am�5 Komédiás VI., Nagymezô u. 26≥ 302-0901 ó Mon–Fri: 8 am–midnight, Sat–Sun: 2 pm–midnight�6 Mai Manó Café VI., Nagymezôu. 20. ≥ 269-5642 ó 10–1 am�7 Marquis de SaladeVI., Hajós utca 43

≥ 302-4086 ó midday–midnight�8 Sandokan Lisboa BárVI., Hajós utca 23. ≥ 302-7002ó Mon–Fri: midday–2 am, Sat–Sun:4 pm-2 am�9 Thália VI., Hajós utca 9 ≥ 269-1221 ó Mon–Fri: 10 am–10 pm, Sat: 4–10 pm

≥ 299-0694 www.ifcavezo.huó 11.30 am–1 am�6 Intenzo IX., Kálvin tér 9 ≥ 219-5243 ó 11 am–midnight�7 Jaffa IX., Ráday utca 39 ≥ 219-5285 ó Mon–Thur: 10 am–1 am, Fri: 10 am–2 am, Sat: midday–2 am,Sun: 2 pm–midnight�8 Chinese Restaurant IX., Rádayutca 18 ≥ 218-9546 ó 11 am–11 pm�9 Memoár Restaurant & CaféIX., Ráday utca 1–3 ≥ 218-8698 ó 10 am–11 pm�10 Octopus IX., Ráday utca 20. ≥ 210-1786 ó 11.30 am–1 am�11 Pata Negra IX., Kálvin tér 8 ≥ 215-5616 ó 11 am–midnight

�12 Paris, Texas IX., Ráday utca 22≥ 218-0570 ó midday–3 am�13 Pesti Ráday Vendéglô IX., Rádayu. 11–13 ≥ 219-5451 ó 12 am–12 pm�14 Pink Cadillac IX., Ráday utca22 ≥ 216-1412 ó Mon–Fri: 11 am– midnight,Sat–Sun: midday–midnight�15 Red Café IX., Ráday utca 14 ≥ 216-5628 ó midday–midnight�16 Shiraz Persian Restaurant IX., Ráday utca 21. ≥ 218-0881 ó midday–midnight�17 Sir Williams IX., Ráday utca 9≥ 217-6093 ó Mon–Sat: midday–midnight, Sun: midday–11 pm

�18 Soul Café IX., Ráday utca11–13 ≥ 217-6986 ó midday–1 am�19 Tajtékos Napok (L’Écume desjours) IX., Ráday utca 1–3 ≥ 215-1730 ó 10 am–midnight�20 Time Café IX., Ráday utca 23≥ 476-0433 ó Mon–Wed: 11 am–1am, Thur–Fri: 11 am–2 am, Sat: 3pm–2 am, Sun: 4 pm–1 am�21 Trattoria Café IX., Ráday utca16. ≥ 215-2888 ó midday–midnight�22 Vörös Oroszlán TeaházIX., Ráday utca 9 ≥ 215-2101 ó 11 am–11 pm�23 Vörös PostakocsiIX., Ráday utca 15 ≥ 217-6756 ó 11.30–midnight

Restaurants and cafés in Hajós and Nagymezô streets

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HANDYinformation

Tourists visiting the capital can feel secure, it is easy to find one’s way around and get information, and public transport is a convenient way of getting to any part of Budapest any time between 4.30 am and 11 pm. On the next few pages we’ll set you on your way with a few handy tips. And don’t forget, with a Budapest Card all public transport in the capital is free!

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Low-cost airlines flyingto Budapest (as at November 2008)

Budapest in Europe

PASSPORT, VISA

Entry with personal ID cardCitizens of the following countriesmay enter the territory of Hungarywith a personal identification card fora stay of maximum 90 days, providedthe purpose of their visit is not to takeup work or to conduct business-related activities:

Austria, Belgium, Croatia, Cyprus,Czech Republic, Estonia, Finland,France, Germany, Greece, Holland,Italy, Liechtenstein, Lithuania, Luxem-burg, Malta, Poland, Portugal,Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Switzer-land.

Entry with passport, but no visarequiredCitizens of European countries (withthe exception of Albania, Russia,Serbia-Montenegro, Turkey and the

Ukraine) do not require a visa to enterHungary.

Citizens of the following countriesoutside Europe similarly do notrequire a visa: Argentina, Australia,Brazil, Brunei, Canada, Chile, CostaRica, Guatemala, Honduras, HongKong, Israel, Japan, Republic ofKorea, Macao, Malaysia, Mexico,New Zealand, Nicaragua, Panama,Paraguay, Salvador, Singapore, USA,Uruguay, Venezuela.

For detailed information in Englishplease go to www.mfa.gov.hu

BUDAPEST, BASICSClimateTemperate zone, continental climate,four seasons.

Hottest months: July, August(temperatures can reach 28–35°C)

Coldest months: December,

January (temperatures can fall as lowas –15°C)

Budapest has a relatively highnumber of hours of sunshine perannum. It exceeds 8 hours per daybetween April and September.

Time zoneBudapest is on Central European time(CET). GMT +1 hour

Summer time (March to the middleof October): GMT +2 hours

HolidaysNon-working days: national holid-

ays (15 March, 20 August, 23 Octo-ber) and 1 May (May Day) plusChristian holidays: 1 January, AllSaint’s Day (1 November), EasterMonday, Whit Monday, Christmasand Boxing Day (25–26 December).

Budapest facts and figuresArea: 525 square kilometres (in a

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north–south direction approx. 25 km,east–west approx. 29 km)

Population: 1 815 000Population density: 3456 persons/

square kilometreAdministrative structure:

23 districtsBuda: comprising one-third of the

area of the city on the hilly, right bankof the Danube

Pest: comprising two-thirds of thearea of the city on the flat, left bank ofthe Danube

Islands (from north to south):Óbuda Island, Margaret Island,Csepel Island

Bridges: nine bridges, of which twoare rail bridges

ARRIVAL IN BUDAPESTBy airThe Airport minibus service is popularand relatively cheap: for HUF 2900 itwill drop passengers anywhere withinthe city limits. A return ticket (HUF4900) is valid for six months.

City rail connection from Ferihegy1: weekdays 60 services, weekend 45services (HUF 300, travel time:approx. 30 mins).

Ferihegy 1 – terminal for low-cost airlines

The “Budapest in Europe” map showslow-cost airline connections betweencities in Europe and Budapest.Updates and the 2009 schedule areavailable at www.bud.hu.

Ferihegy 2A – terminal for Schengentraffic

Ferihegy 2B – terminal for non-Schengen traffic

Airport information: Central number: (+36-1)296-9696 Flight information: (+36-1)296-7155,(+36-1)296-8000, (+36-1)296-7000,(+36-1)296-5052, (+36-1)296-5883Luggage search service: • Ferihegy 1: (+36-1)296-5449• Ferihegy 2A:(+36-1)296-8108, (+36-1)296-7217• Ferihegy 2B: (+36-1)296-7948,(+36-1)296-5965, (+36-1)296-5966

Airport minibus service: (+36-1)296-8555

By trainBudapest has direct rail links to 25capitals. There are more than 50international connections each day.Trains depart every three hoursbetween Budapest–Vienna, with atravel time of less than two and a halfhours. INTERCITY links runningbetween the capital and the majortowns around Hungary are extremelypopular and comfortable.

There are three major internationalrailway stations in Budapest: Eastern Railway Station(Keleti pályaudvar) +36-1/313-6835Western Railway Station (Nyugati pályaudvar) +36-1/349-0115Southern Railway Station(Déli pályaudvar) +36-1//355-8657

All rail stations can be accessed bythe metro (‘Keleti pu.’, ‘Déli pu.’ stopson Metro line 2, ‘Nyugati pu.’ stop onMetro line 3.)

Nonstop telephone ticket bookings(MÁVDIREKT):

(06-40)49-49-49 From abroad: (+36-1)371-9449 Information: www.mav.hu,www.elvira.hu

By coachDomestic coach services arrive atseveral points around the city. Theinternational coach station is atNépliget. Volánbusz Company hasscheduled passenger coach servicesto and from the following countries:Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia,Czech Republic, Denmark, France,Germany, Great Britain, Greece, Italy,Lithuania, Macedonia, Netherlands,Norway, Poland, Romania, Serbia,Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden,Switzerland, Ukraine.

Népliget (+36-1)219-8030Stadionok (+36-1)220-6227Árpád Bridge (+36-1)412-2597 Etele Square (+36-1)382-4905Széna Square (+36-1)201-3688Online tickets: www.volanbusz.huInformation on domestic and international routes: (+36-1)382-0888

(+36-1)219-8086

By boatHydrofoils run scheduled servicesfrom Vienna and Bratislava to theheart of Budapest between April andOctober. There are three largeinternational quays on the Danubebetween Széchenyi Chain Bridge andLiberty (Szabadság) Bridge.

Information on Mahart Passnavesailings: (+36-1)484-4013

By passenger carOf the five motorways and four mainroads in Hungary, eight start fromBudapest (exception: main road No. 8).

There is a flat-rate charge for use ofmotorways M1, M3, M5, M6 and M7(payment can be made at bordercrossing points and most petrolstations).

The Hungarian Highway Code(KRESZ) is based on the Vienna andGeneva Convention, and as such trafficsigns and road markings are similar tothose found in other European countries.However, it is important to highlight a fewkey traffic regulations that tourists visitingHungary must observe at all times: use ofseatbelts in the front and rear seats iscompulsory; only mobile phones fittedwith loudspeaker and microphone maybe used in cars, and it is recommendedthat drivers making or receiving a callpull over to the side of the road in a safearea; drivers may not consume anyalcohol before driving, and drunk driverscan be fined upwards of HUF 100,000 (U380); the speed limit in built-up areas is50 kph, outside built-up areas 90 kph, onmain roads 110 kph and on motorways130 kph; use of the horn in towns is onlypermitted in moments of danger.

Hungarian Automobile Club (Ma-gyar Autóklub) 24 hour helpline: (+36-1)345-1800.

Roadside breakdown service: 188Information on roadworks, diver-

sions, motorway vignette prices etc.in 13 languages: www.motorway.hu

GENERAL INFORMATIONTelephoneHungary code: 36, Budapest: 1,dialling code for inland calls: 06.

Budapest telephone numbers are 7digits, countryside numbers(including the trunk code) 8 digits.

If you wish to phone abroad from

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Hungary, first dial 00, wait for thetone, and then dial the country code,town code and continue with thetelephone number.

Public phones operate with 20, 50and 100 forint coins and telephonecards. The latter can be purchased intobacconists, post offices, petrolstations and newsagents. It ischeaper to phone at the weekend, onpublic holidays and in the evening.

Mobile telephone numbers are 9-digit, after dialling 06; depending onthe telephone company, the first twonumbers are 20, 30 or 70.

Credit cardsThe most commonly used creditcards – AMEX, Diners Club, Cirrus,EnRoute, Euro/Mastercard, JCB,VISA – can be used to obtain cashfrom ATMs in banks and on thestreets as well as to pay bills in hotels,restaurants and shops. Emblems onthe door of the establishment detailwhich credit cards are accepted.

AccommodationThe capital has every category ofaccommodation from luxury hotel topaying guest rooms.

Free copies of Accommodation inBudapest can be picked up frominformation offices and hotelreceptions in town.

Other useful information on accom-modation can be found on the home-page of the Tourism Office of Buda-pest: www.budapestinfo.hu, and ininformation offices (for addresses andtelephone numbers see page 3).

Postal servicesPost offices are generally open from 8am–6 pm Mon–Fri, 8 am–noon on Sat.Post offices with extended openinghours: II., Szilágyi Erzsébet fasor 121.(ó Mon–Fri: 10 am–7 pm, Sat.: 8am–1 pm), VI., Teréz körút 51. (óMon–Fri: 7 am–8 pm, Sat: 7 am–6pm), XVII., Pesti út 5–7 (ó Mon–Fri: 8am–7 pm, Sat: 8 am–4 pm).

Postal money services: creditcards (VISA, VISA Electron, Euro-Card/Mastercard, Maestro) can beused to make cash withdrawals at allpost offices in the capital. Post officesalso exchange Eurocheques, Ame-

rican Express traveller’s cheques andpostal orders.

ElectricityHungary’s electricity network operatesat 230 Volts. Plugs are the regulationcontinental type.

General opening timesShops: food shops are open from 7 am–6pm, clothes shops between 10 am–6 pmMon. to Sat. Most shopping centres arealso open on Sun. Tesco is open 24 hoursa day, seven days a week.

Office hours: generally from 8am–4 pm Mon. to Fri.

Post offices: Mon–Fri: 8 am–6 pm,Sat: 8 am–1 pm (for details, seePostal services section)

Banks: Mon–Thur: 8 am–5 pm, Fri:8 am–2 pm

STAYING STREET-WISESecurity in BudapestThe general public security situationin the capital can be said to be goodon an international average, and still itis better if tourists are prepared forcertain situations so that they do notend up feeling cheated.

In general the tourist’s wallet is ingreatest danger, and so it isadvisable when using public trans-port, at shopping centres, markets orany other busy area where people arejostling around to pay extra attentionto wallets, purses and bags.

Taxis are best pre-booked by phone;they are cheaper and there is nochance that you will pick up the one ortwo ‘private taxis’ who charge exorbitantfares. (For phone numbers of reputablecompanies, see the Taxi section p. 66.)

Always ask for a menu showing all theprices before choosing which restaurantto eat at. This way you can rule out anyunpleasantness caused by overchar-ging. Beware of attractive young ladiesinviting you to have a drink or meal in abar or restaurant! These places oftencharge outrageous prices and willpresent you with a bill you won’t forget!

Never get mixed up in changingmoney or gambling on the street. Carrydocuments, money and credit cards ina closed, inner pocket, and don’t carrya lot of cash around town. Never leavevaluables in your car. There is no need

to carry your passport with you whentravelling around the city, you canleave it in the hotel safe. All you needfor identification is an ID card withphoto, for instance a driving licence.Another handy tip: write down thename and address of your hotel incase it slips your mind after a long dayof sightseeing!

If you encounter any problemrequiring the presence of thepolice:call the international emergency number112, or the emergency number used inHungary, 107. Operators on thesenumbers can also give information onwhere you can make a report orstatement in a foreign language. If youbecome involved in a police case eitheras the injured party, as a witness or forany other reason, ask for consularassistance through the acting authority.

If you are the victim of a crime, theVictim Assistance Service of theOffice for Justice will inform you ofyour rights. Where justified, you maybe offered immediate financialassistance, and as the victim of aviolent criminal act you may beeligible for compensation or support.

For further information:06-80-244-444 (toll-free within

Hungary) or www.kih.gov.hu Tourinform telephone service -

Police-info: 438-8080 (0-24 h)The following police stations have

0–24 hour tourist assistance:I district Police Station: 1013 Budapest, Pauler út 13V district Police Station: 1055 Budapest, Szalay utca 11–13XI district Police Station: 1113 Budapest, Bocskay út 90XIII. district Police Station: 1135 Budapest, Szabolcs utca 36XIV district Police Station: 1144 Budapest, Stefánia út 83Budapest Police Command: 1136 Budapest, Teve utca 4–6

Left luggageIn Budapest left luggage counters andcoin-operated lockers are to be found atthe rail stations. There are two non-stopleft luggage counters at both the Eastern(Keleti) and the Southern (Déli) RailwayStations, while the Western (Nyugati)

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Currency Forint (Ft or HUF)

Coins

200 100 50 20 10 5

Banknotes:

200 500 1000 2000

5000 10 000 20 000

Exchanging moneyExchanging money is onlypermitted in licensed, designatedplaces. Do not take the risk ofchanging money on the street. Youare likely to find yourself withcounterfeit money, besides whichsuch transactions are illegal.

The Hungarian National Bankgives official daily foreign exchangeand currency rates on 23 currencies.Most banks have 24-hour banknoteexchange ATMs. Besides this thereare many credit card and cash cardATMs in operation day and night.Banks and travel agencies can set(and modify) their own exchangerates, taking the bank of issue’s rateas the basis. Any bureau de changehas to have the current exchangerates clearly displayed. Please keepyour exchange receipt in a safeplace until you depart the country.Broadly speaking, the bestexchange rates are to be foundclose to the rail stations and in thecity centre (Petôfi Sándor Street).Banks generally give a middle rate,and the airport and hotel exchangerates are not so competitive.

Take care! Illegal money-changers hunting tourists on thestreets and around railway stationswill promise a better exchange rate,but the bundle of notes you receivewill contain cut up newspaper orother worthless paper, and you’llnever get your money back.

Public transportBudapest has an efficient publictransport network made up of morethan 180 bus, 14 trolleybus, 29 tram,and three metro lines. In general thebuses, trams and trolleybuses operatebetween 4.30 am and 11 pm. The threemetro lines intersect at Deák Square inthe centre of town. Metros run at 2-15minute intervals from 4.30 am to 11.10pm. Due to the construction of metroline No. 4 (scheduled completion date:2010) there may be intermittentchanges to bus and tram services(information: www.metro4.hu). Metroconstruction work affects the followingsquares, streets and stations:Kelenföld Railway Station, TétényiRoad, Bocskai Road, Móricz ZsigmondCircus, Szent Gellért Square, FôvámSquare, Kálvin Square, RákócziSquare, Népszínház Street, Eastern(Keleti) Railway Station. The localsuburban train (HÉV) can be used totravel out to Csepel Island in the southof the city, and to nearby Szentendre,Gödöllô and Ráckeve. Maps sited atthe entrances to metro stations give acomprehensive overview of the entirepublic transport network in Budapest.Conditions of travel are also included,in German and English. Hungariancitizens (including those who haverepatriated to Hungary and personsholding dual nationality) as well ascitizens of other Member States of theEuropean Union over the age of 65

years can travel free of charge on BKVBudapest public transport services(except for the funicular, the chair-liftand boat trips) when they present toinspectors a personal identity card ordocument certifying their citizenship.

TicketsMay be purchased at metro stations,ticket machines, tobacconists andnewsagents. It is perhaps best to buyyour tickets at a metro station becausethere you have a choice of severaltypes of ticket and various passes.

Single ticket (2008: HUF 270): validfor bus, tram, trolleybus, metro,cogwheel railway for the entire lengthof the journey, as well as thesuburban railway within theadministrative limits of Budapest. Theticket has to be purchasedbeforehand, and validated in theticket stampers found on the publictransport (on the metro, either beforeyou enter the metro or on theplatforms) before the trip starts.

Information can also be found onthe following Internet site: www.bkv.hu

Information on public transport:06-80/406-688.

If you don’t want to bother spendingtime buying and validating tickets,choose Budapest Card, which allowsyou to travel around Budapest for free.

Ticket controls: you may berequested to show your ticket on allpublic transport or at exit points of the

City transport

Railway Station has a left luggagecounter open from 5 am-midnight, andlockers available 24 hours a day.

Health matters, medical assistancePharmacies in the capital are wellstocked, and pharmacists may be ableto suggest a medication for certaincomplaints. A notice on the door ofpharmacies indicates the address ofthe closest 24-hour pharmacy.

Pharmacies operating aroundthe clock (see map on page 67): Teréz Patika: VI., Teréz körút 41≥311-4439, Déli Gyógyszertár: XII., Alkotás utca1/B ≥ 355-4691

Elefánt Gyógyszertár: X., Pongrácz út12. ≥ 431-9940Non-stop medical assistance: Falck SOS Hungary≥ 200-0100Non-stop dental service: SOS Dent ≥ 267-9602

Important numbersAmbulance: 104Police: 107Central help number: 112Fire service: 105General enquiries: 197Inland enquiries: 198International enquiries: 199Auto club help number: 188Speaking clock: 180

Page 66: Budapest travel guide

metro by ticket inspectors who weararmbands and have a badge withphotograph (they generally operate inpairs, but there may be 4-5inspectors on the metro). For thisreason, please keep your ticket untilthe very end of your journey or untilyou have left the metro station.

If you travel without a valid ticket orpass or if you contravene the condi-tions of travel, you have to pay a fine.

ParkingThe capital is sectioned into severalparking zones, and different parkingfees are charged according to the zone(between HUF 120 and 430 per hour).There is a charge for parking betweenthe hours of 8 am-6 pm Monday toFriday. Parking is free on Saturday,Sunday and public holidays. Onparking, a ticket must be purchasedfrom the nearest ticket machine for theentire period the car is to be left. Thisticket should be displayed behind thewindscreen. Minimum parking time: 15minutes, beyond which the ticketmachine gives a ticket for the amount oftime equivalent to the sum of moneyinserted. Maximum waiting time: 3-4hours, although there are some areasthat do not impose waiting timerestrictions.

Cars parked illegally will beclamped by the Municipal PublicRoads Department. Any car fitted witha wheel clamp will also have aninformation sheet in several lan-guages stuck to the windscreen toinform the driver how to go abouthaving the clamp removed. For moreinformation on parking charges andother conditions please go towww.parking.hu or www.budapest.hu.

Car parks and garagesMulti-storey car parks are generallyopen 24 hours a day; most largerhotels also have an undergroundgarage. Some of the larger car parks:Bazilika Garage (V., Sas utca),Krisztina Garage behind the HotelMercure Buda (I., Kosciuszko Tádéutca 15), Kastrum (V., Aranykéz utca4-6), Centrum Parkoló (V., Szervita tér8), Pollack Garage (VIII., PollackMihály tér), Corvin Multi-storey CarPark (VIII., Futó utca 52), Páva Multi-

storey Car Park (IX., Mester utca 30-32). Lipót Garage (V., SzéchenyiStreet under Szabadság Square),Erzsébet Square underground garage(V., Erzsébet Square), MOM ParkOffice Building (XII., Csörsz utca 45),Millennium Office Towers (IX., LechnerÖdön fasor 6). www.parking.hu givesdetailed information in English andGerman on the capital’s street parking,P+R, multi-storey car parks andunderground garages. Car parks aremarked on the map on pages16–17.

Rent-a-carA selection of the larger car rentalcompanies: Americana, Avis, Budget,Hertz, Regina, Sixt

In general, all companies requirethat the person renting a vehicle is atleast 21 years old, has had at leastone year’s driving experience, has avalid driving licence and passport.

All the major rent-a-car companieshave an office at the airport, andbrochures on rent-a-car options areavailable from hotel reception desksand Tourinform offices.

TaxisBudapest taxis have yellow numberplates and a taxi sign in yellow. (Anyvehicle without these features isoperating illegally.) The total chargethat has to be paid by the passenger ismade up of three separate parts: thebasic charge which is irrespective ofhow far the journey is (maximum HUF300 during the day, maximum HUF 420at night), a per kilometre charge whichdepends on how many kilometres arecovered during the journey (maximumHUF 240 per kilometre during the day,maximum HUF 336 at night), and thewaiting charge. Tariffs are clearlydisplayed on the rear right door and onthe dashboard. The larger taxi com-panies work with rates far lower thanthe maximum charges listed above.Ask for assistance from your hotelreception when ordering a taxi, andthink twice before taking the “impartialadvice” of taxi drivers if you are lookingfor a bar or nightclub. It is generallybest to check with your hotel first in thisinstance, too.

6x6 Taxi: 2-666-666, Buda Taxi: 2-

333-333, Budapest Taxi: 4-333-333,City Taxi: 2-111-111, Fôtaxi: 2-222-222, Mobil Taxi: 333-1757, RádióTaxi: 3-777-777, Taxi 2000: 2-000-000, Taxi4: 4-444-444, Tele5Taxi: 5-555-555, Volán Taxi: 4-33-33-22

No call-out charge is levied on taxisordered by phone within theboundaries of Budapest, except forexceptional orders (e.g. estate car,type demand etc.). All cars must havea taximeter installed, and these alsoprint out a receipt. Taxi drivers arerequired to give an invoice on request.Tipping: in general 10% of the fare.

Passengers arriving at the airportshould take care not to engage theservices of taxi drivers waiting in thearrivals hall who offer fares at aconsiderably higher rate than themaximum permissible tariff. If youwant go into town by taxi, order one byphone (naturally you can do this fromabroad, too), or take one of the Zónataxis (365-5555) waiting outside theairport, which operate on a fixed faresystem for four zones between theairport and the city centre. Tariffs varybetween HUF 3000–4300 (€14–20).

Budapest Card – Budapestwith extra discounts!Start saving immediately with the 2- or3-day Budapest Card, which allowsyou to discover the best places inBudapest. All the discounts you areentitled to are also available for a childunder the age of 14 travelling with you. Budapest Card benefits:• discounted airport transfer• free public transport on Budapest

city transport (BKV Zrt.)• discounts at the main museums

and baths in Budapest • discounted city sightseeing tours• discounted tickets for cultural

programmes • discounts in restaurants, on car

rentals and for Budapest specialities Ask for Budapest Card at the

airport, in tourist information offices,main metro ticket offices, hotels andtravel agencies.

Don’t forget: Budapest Card cansave you as much as HUF 5000 a day!

Price:HUF 6 300 (48 hours)HUF 7 500 (72 hours)

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LEGENDMetro Line 1

Metro Line 2

Metro Line 3

Metro Line 4 –under projected

Suburban railway

Tram

Bus

Railway

Coghwheel railway

Busstation

Pharmacies operatingaround the clock

PUBLIC TRANSPORT

Page 68: Budapest travel guide