Lyon Travel Guide - Wiki Travel

Contents

[+] UnderstandDistrictsHistoryPoliticsEconomyClimateEventsLanguageSmokingTourist information

[+] Get inBy planeBy trainBy busBy car

[+] Get aroundOn footBy public transportBy bicycleBy carTaxis

[+] SeeHighlightsVieux LyonFourvière, Saint-JustCroix-RoussePresqu'îleConfluenceOther areasMuseums and GalleriesParks and Gardens

[+] DoMusic, dancing and operaTheatreCinemasSports

LearnWork[+] Buy

FoodWine

[+] EatBudgetMid-range

From Wikitravel

Europe : France : Southeastern France : Rhône-Alpes : Rhône : Lyon

Lyon [1] (http://www.en.lyon-france.com/) , also written Lyons inEnglish, is the third largest city in France and centre of the secondlargest metropolitan area in the country. It is the capital of theRhone-Alpes region and the Rhône département. It is known as agastronomic and historical city with a vibrant cultural scene. It isalso the birthplace of cinema.

Founded by the Romans, with many preserved historical areas,Lyon is the archetype of the heritage city, as recognised byUNESCO. Long seen as a dreary, grey city, partly because ofurban planning errors such as building motorways right through thecity centre, Lyon is now a vibrant metropolis which starts to makethe most out of its unique architectural, cultural and gastronomicheritage, its dynamic demographics and economy and its strategiclocation between Northern and Southern Europe. It is more andmore open to the world, with an increasing number of students andinternational events.

The city itself has about 470,000 inhabitants. However, the directinfluence of the city extends well over its administrative borders.The figure which should be compared to the population of othermajor metropolises is the population of Greater Lyon (whichincludes 57 towns or communes): about 1,200,000. Lyon and itsmetropolitan area are rapidly growing and getting younger,because of their economic attractiveness.

Districts

Lyon is shaped by its two rivers, the Rhône (to the East) and theSaône (to the West), which both run North-South. The main areasof interest are:

Fourvière hillAlso known as "the hill that prays" due to the numerouschurches and religious institutions it hosts. The hill was alsothe place where the Romans settled.

Vieux Lyon (Old Lyon)The Renaissance area, along the right bank of the Saône.

Presqu'îleBetween the two rivers, the real heart of the city.

Croix-RousseNorth of Presqu'île between the two rivers, it is known as

Lyon travel guide - Wikitravel http://wikitravel.org/wiki/en/index.php?title=Lyon&printable=yes

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SplurgeIce cream, pastries, brunch

[+] DrinkEnglish/Irish pubsLive musicOthersBoatsWine bars

[+] SleepBudgetMid-rangeSplurge

Contact[+] Stay safe

Emergency numbers[+] Cope

ConsulatesGet out

Fourvière basilica from the river Saône, illuminated at night.

"the hill that works" because it was home to the silk workers(canuts) until the 19th century. This industry has shaped theunique architecture of the area.

ConfluenceAn emerging district with great contemporary architecturein a former industrial area.

Part-DieuThe main business district and home to the main trainstation of Lyon.

BrotteauxThe wealthiest district, next to the beautiful Tête d'Or park.

GuillotièreA picturesque district with a large immigrant population.

Etats-UnisAn interesting 1920s housing project.

VaiseAnother developing district.

Fourvière, Vieux Lyon, Croix-Rousse and a large part ofPresqu'île are classified as aUNESCO World Heritage site.

Lyon has nine administrativesubdivisions calledarrondissements, which aredesignated by numbers. Theycorrespond approximately to thefollowing neighbourhoods:

1st arrondissement(centre): North ofPresqu'île and slopes of theCroix-Rousse hill; home ofthe canuts (silk workers),and still a 'rebel'neighbourhood.2nd arrondissement(centre): Most ofPresqu'île; basically, this iswhere the action is.3rd arrondissement (East):Part-Dieu, North ofGuillotière, Montchat,North of Monplaisir; themost populated arrondissement with wealthy and popular neighbourhoods, former industrial ormilitary sites and a modern business district.4th arrondissement (North): Plateau of the Croix-Rousse hill; historical area with a "village" mood.5th arrondissement (West): Vieux Lyon, Fourvière, Saint-Just, Point du Jour; historical sites and quietresidential neighbourhoods.6th arrondissement (Northeast): Brotteaux; the wealthiest part of the city.7th arrondissement (South): South of Guillotière, Gerland; from popular neighbourhoods to high-techindustrial zones.


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Main districts of interest in Lyon with arrondissement numbers and borders

8th arrondissement(Southeast): Southof Monplaisir,Etats-Unis,industrial andpopularneighbourhoodsbuilt mainly in the1920s-1930s.9th arrondissement(Northwest): Vaise,La Duchère, StRambert; some ofthe areas whichhave evolved themost in recentyears.Don't forget to visitSainte-Foy-lès-Lyon, anice little town onthe western hill ofLyon,across theriver Saône, whereyou can enjoy awalk halfwaybetween the cityand thecountryside, withmarvellousperspectives on thecity.

Zip codes for Lyon begin with 69 for the Rhône département and end with the number of thearrondissement: 69004 is therefore the zip code for the 4th arrondissement. Special zip codes may be usedfor businesses.

History

All periods of Lyon's 2000-year history have left visible traces in the city's architectural and culturalheritage, from Roman ruins to Renaissance palaces to contemporary skyscrapers. It never went through amajor disaster (earthquake, fire, extensive bombing...) or a complete redesign by urban planners. Very fewcities in the world boast such diversity in their urban structure and architecture.

Early traces of settlement date back to 12,000 BC but there is noevidence of continuous occupation prior to the Roman era.Lugdunum, the Roman name of the city, was officially foundedin 43 BC by Lucius Munatius Plancus, then Governor of Gaul.The first Roman settlements were on Fourvière hill, and the firstinhabitants were probably veterans of Caesar's war campaigns.The development of the city was boosted by its strategic locationand it was promoted Capital of Gauls in 27 BC by GeneralAgrippa, emperor Augustus's son-in-law and minister. Largecarriageways were then built, providing easy access from all


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The Roman theatre in Fourvière, the mostimportant remain of the Roman city of

Lugdunum.

parts of Gaul. Lugdunum became one of the most prominentadministrative, economic and financial centres in Gaul, alongwith Narbonne. The main period of peace and prosperity of theRoman city was between 69 and 192 AD. The population at thattime is estimated between 50,000 and 80,000. Lugdunumconsisted of four populated areas: the top of Fourvière hill, the slopes of Croix-Rousse around theAmphithéâtre des Trois Gaules, the Canabae (around where Place Bellecour is today) and the right bank ofthe Saône river, mainly in what is today St Georges neighbourhood.

Lugdunum was the place where the first Christian communities of Gaul appeared. It was also where thefirst martyrdoms took place, most notably in 177 AD when the young slave Blandine was killed in theAmphithéâtre des Trois Gaules, along with 47 other martyrs.

The city lost its status of Capital of Gauls in 297 AD. Then, in the early years of the 4th century, theaqueducts which brought water to the top of Fourvière suddenly stopped functioning. This was due to a lackof funds for their maintenance and security; the lead pipes which carried the water were stolen and could notbe replaced. The city was completely deprived of water overnight. This triggered the end of the RomanLugdunum, which lost a large part of its population and was reorganised around the Saône.

In the Middle Ages, the city developed on both banks of the Saône. The name "Lion" or "Lyon" appeared inthe 13th century. The early Middle Ages were very troubled politically. Since the political geography ofFrance kept changing, the city belonged successively to multiple provinces. It then belonged to the HolyRoman Empire from 1018 to 1312, when it was given to France at the Vienna Council. At that time, the citywas still of limited size but had a large religious influence; in 1078, Pope Gregory VII made the Archbishopof Lyon the highest Catholic dignitary in the former Gaul (Primat des Gaules).

In the Renaissance, fiscal advantages and the organisation of numerous trade fairs attracted bankers fromFlorence and merchants from all over Europe; the city became more and more prosperous and experienced asecond golden age. The main industries were silk weaving, introduced in 1536, and printing. Lyon becameone of Europe's largest cities and its first financial place, helped by the advantages given by King François Iwho even considered, at one time, making Lyon the capital of France. Around 1530, the population of Lyonreached 50,000.

In the following centuries, Lyon was hurt by the religious wars but remained a major industrial andintellectual centre, while the financial activity moved to Geneva and Switzerland. In the 18th century, half ofthe inhabitants were silk workers (canuts).

The eastern bank of the Rhône was not urbanised before the 18th century, when the swamps (calledBrotteaux) were dried out to allow construction. Those massive works were led by engineer Morand. In themeantime, works conducted by Perrache doubled the area of the Presqu'île. The extension works werehalted by the French revolution but started again in the early 19th century.

During the Revolution, in 1793, Lyon took sides against the central power of the Convention (Parliament),which caused a severe repression from the army. Over 2,000 people were executed.

In the early 19th century, the silk industry was still developing, notably thanks to Jacquard's loom whichmade the weaving work more efficient. Social crises, however, occurred: in 1831, the first revolt of thecanuts was harshly repressed. The workers were protesting against the introduction of new technology,which was likely to cause unemployment. Other riots took place in 1834, 1848 and 1849, especially in theCroix-Rousse neighbourhood. From 1848, the Presqu'île area was redesigned in a way similar toHaussmann's works in Paris. In 1852, the neighbouring towns of Vaise, Croix-Rousse and Guillotière weremade districts of Lyon. The traditional silk industry disappeared at the end of the century because ofdiseases affecting the French silk worms and the opening of the Suez Canal which reduced the price ofimported silk from Asia. Various other industries developed at that time; the most famous entrepreneurs of


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A view of Part-Dieu business area; in theback, the Part-Dieu Tower, locally known as

the "pencil".

the late 19th century were the Lumière brothers, who invented cinema in Lyon in 1895.

Edouard Herriot was elected mayor in 1905 and governed the city until his death in 1957. He initiated anumber of important urban projects, most notably in partnership with his favourite architect Tony Garnier:Grange Blanche hospital (today named after Herriot), Gerland slaughterhouses (now Halle Tony Garnier)and stadium, the Etats-Unis neighbourhood, etc.

During World War II, Lyon was close to the border between the "free zone" and the occupied zone and wastherefore a key strategic place for the Germans and the French Resistance alike. Jean Moulin, head of theResistance, was arrested in Caluire (North suburb of Lyon). On 26 May 1944, Lyon was bombed by theAllied aviation. The Liberation of Lyon occurred on 3 September.

In the 1960s, the construction of the business district ofPart-Dieu began; its symbol is the "pencil" tower, the tallestbuilding in Lyon. Meanwhile, the association "Renaissance duVieux Lyon" (Rebirth of the Old Lyon) managed to have thisRenaissance area classified by the government as the firstpreserved landmark in France, while it was threatened by ahighway project defended by mayor Louis Pradel. Pradel was aconvinced "modernist" and supporter of the automobile. He alsobacked the construction of the Fourvière tunnel, opened in 1971and of the A6/A7 freeway through Presqu'île, near Perrachestation, a decision later described as "the screw-up of thecentury" by mayor Michel Noir, in the 1990s. In 1974, the firstline of the metro was opened. In 1981, Lyon was linked to Parisby the first TGV (high speed train) line. In the 1980s and 1990s,a huge number of buildings in Vieux Lyon and Croix-Roussewere renovated. The landscape of Lyon is still evolving, notably with the new Rhône banks promenade orthe construction of new skyscrapers in Part-Dieu.

In the future, the banks of the Saône should also be given a second youth. The completion of the Lyonbeltway on the western side should relieve the central areas from some of the traffic. A high-performancetrain network serving exurban areas (like the RER around Paris) is also planned.

Politics

A city of merchants and industry, Lyon has a long tradition of centre-right governments and mayors, even ifsome neighbourhoods, most notably Croix-Rousse, have a very strong left-wing inclination. In 2001,however, Gérard Collomb, a member of the moderate left-wing Socialist party, was elected mayor. Althoughmany controversies surrounded Collomb, he adopted a strategy of creating public infrastructure projects togain popularity.

Economy

The silk industry was the main activity for centuries. Since the end of the 19th century, it has beensuccessfully replaced by a number of others. Feyzin, a southern suburb, is home to a major oil refinery and alarge number of chemical plants are also located along the Rhône river south of Lyon. Pharmaceutics andbiotechnology are also important; they were historically fueled by Lyon's prominence in medical research,and the local authorities are trying to maintain an international leadership in these industries. Thesoutheastern suburbs of Vénissieux and St Priest host large automotive plants, such as Renault's truck andbus factories. But as in most Western metropolises, the service industry is now dominant. Many largebanking and insurance companies have important offices in Lyon, and the IT services industry is also welldeveloped. From an economic point of view, Lyon is the most attractive and dynamic city in France. This


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A view of Vieux Lyon and Fourvière duringthe Festival of Lights.

When to visit

Of course, the Festival of Lights is athrilling experience. However,depending on your expectations, thismay not be the best time to visit the city,given the weather and theovercrowding. If you are particularlyinterested in one of the city's events,then go for it. Otherwise, avoid comingin August, especially during the firsttwo or three weeks, unless you are onlyinterested in things that don't take

may be explained by the easy access from all over Europe (probably second only to Paris in the country),the availability of qualified workforce and research centres, and cheaper real estate prices compared to thecapital.

Climate

Lyon has a "semi-continental" climate. Winters are cold but temperatures under -5°C (23°F) remain rare.You can, however, experience an awful freezing sensation when northerly winds blow. Snowfalls happen butsnow-covered streets are generally not seen for more than a few days every winter. Summers can be hot;temperatures around 35°C (95°F) are not exceptional in July and August. Precipitations are moderate andhappen throughout the year; the mountains to the west (Massif central) protect the area against perturbationsfrom the Atlantic. During the summer, especially in August, precipitations often take the form ofthunderstorms whereas in winter, lighter but more continuous rain is more common. Spring and early autumnare usually enjoyable.

Events

The Festival of Lights (Fête des Lumières) [2](http://www.lumieres.lyon.fr/lumieres/sections/en) is byfar the most important event of the year. It lasts four daysaround the 8th of December. It was initially a traditionalreligious celebration: on December 8th, 1852, the peopleof Lyon spontaneously illuminated their windows withcandles to celebrate the inauguration of the golden statueof the Virgin Mary (the Virgin had been the saint patron ofLyon since she allegedly saved the city from the plague in1643). The same ritual was then repeated every year.In the last decade or so, the celebration turned into aninternational event, with light shows by professional artistsfrom all over the world. Those range from tinyinstallations in remote neighbourhoods to massive sound-and-light shows, the largest one traditionally taking placeon Place des Terreaux. The traditional celebration lives on, though: during the weeks precedingDecember 8th, the traditional candles and glasses are sold by shops all over town. This festival attractsaround 4 million visitors every year; it now compares, in terms of attendance, to the Oktoberfest inMunich for example. Needless to say, accommodation for this period should be booked months inadvance. You will also need good shoes (to avoid the crowd in the metro) and very warm clothes (itcan be very cold at this time of year).

The Nuits de Fourvière festival [3](http://www.nuitsdefourviere.fr/) : From June to earlyAugust, the Roman theatres host various shows such asconcerts (popular music, jazz, classical), dancing,theatre and cinema. International artists who usually fillup much larger venues are often seduced by the specialatmosphere of the theatres.

Nuits sonores [4] (http://www.nuits-sonores.com/) : anincreasingly popular festival dedicated to electronicmusic, every year in May.

The Biennals [5] (http://www.biennale-de-lyon.org/) :Lyon alternatively hosts a dancing (even years) and acontemporary art (odd years) biennals from September


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holidays like traboules or churches. Thecity is deserted, nothing reallyinteresting happens and it is verydifficult to find a decent restaurant. InJuly, the activity is close to normal butthe weather may be unpleasantly hot.May-June and September are probablythe best times: the weather is usuallynice and warm and you can enjoy quitelong daylight hours.

to December/January. The dancing biennal istraditionally opened by a street parade in whichinhabitants of the Greater Lyon take part throughneighbourhood associations. If you are in town at thismoment, do not miss this colourful and funny event.

Language

The language of the city is French. The local dialect (patois,basically French with a number of typical local words orexpressions) has practically disappeared since one out of twoinhabitants were born outside the Rhône département.

Hotels, tourist attractions and restaurants in popular areas generally have staff capable of working in English.You could, however, experience difficulties in more remote areas. The transportation system also has littleinformation written in English. On the street, many people (especially young people) speak at least basicEnglish, but they will appreciate a little effort in French. Using basic words like bonjour (hello), s'il vousplaît (please), merci (thank you) or excusez-moi (excuse me) will certainly make people even more friendlyand willing to help you.

The only measurement system used is the metric system. Most French people have no idea what Imperialunits mean.

Smoking

As everywhere in France, smoking is prohibited in all closed public places, including bars, restaurants andnight clubs.

Tourist information

Tourist office, place Bellecour (M: Bellecour), ☎ +33 4 72 77 69 69, [6] (http://www.en.lyon-france.com/) . 9AM-6PM daily, 9AM-8PM during the Festival of Lights. The office is in the southeastcorner of place Bellecour. edit

By plane

Lyon's Saint-Exupéry Airport (IATA: LYS) [7] (http://www.lyon.aeroport.fr/) (formerly known as Satolas),some 25 km east of Lyon, is a rapidly developing airport. It still hosts few intercontinental flights, but caneasily be reached via a European hub (Paris, London, Frankfurt...). Air France serves most airports in Franceand major European airports. EasyJet serves a number of destinations in Europe, including London, Berlin,Brussels, Rome, Edinburgh and Madrid, along with a few domestic destinations which are not easily reachedby train (Bordeaux, Toulouse, Nice). Most other major European airlines also operate flights between Lyonand their respective hubs.

The connection between the city and the airport has been improved by the recent opening of a "tram-train"line called Rhônexpress [8] (http://www.rhonexpress.com) . It is faster (30 min) and more reliable than theold buses (which no longer run), but it is definitely aimed at business travellers given the upscale onboardservice for a tram (including power sockets at each seat) and the high price: €13 for a single journey, €23 fora return. Note that Rhônexpress connects with the metro (line A) at "Vaulx-en-Velin La Soie" (second stop),which is convenient if you are staying in Presqu'île or Villeurbanne. Trains depart every 15 (6AM-9PM) to30 min. To find them, follow the red signs in the airport terminals. You have to walk through the TGV


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station, which can be as long as 10 minutes if you arrive at Terminal 3 (low-cost airlines). There are noalternatives except taxis. A taxi to Lyon costs around €40-50 depending on the exact destination, so if youare a group of four people this could be an option. Ask to be dropped at one of the metro stations located onthe eastern side of town (Vaulx-en-Velin La Soie, Mermoz-Pinel) to save money. Taxis are found outsideTerminal 1 (follow the signs).

Grenoble airport is actually about midway between Lyon and Grenoble and is served by some low-costairlines. There are bus services to Lyon from there [9] (http://www.agbus.fr) .

Another possibility is to fly to Geneva, which can save money by using low-cost airlines. Then Lyon can bereached by train, but it takes about two hours (€21.50 for under 26s).

Finally, an interesting option for intercontinental visitors may be to fly to Paris Charles de Gaulle airport andtake a TGV (fast train) to Lyon Part Dieu station directly from the CDG train station. In some cases, thismakes the journey faster and more convenient (no need to go from LYS to the city). Trains run every hour orso; be sure to buy an exchangeable ticket to be able to catch the first available train after you land.

By train

From the rest of France, train is generally the most convenient way to reach the city, except for someregions, the Southwest for example. Lyon has three main train stations serving national and regionaldestinations:

Perrache (M/T: Perrache) is the historical station. It is just a short walk away from Place Bellecourand generally more handy if you are staying in the city centre.

Part-Dieu station (M/T: Part-Dieu) was opened with the first TGV line in 1981. It is in the heart ofLyon's main business district.

Saint-Exupéry (the station is outside the city and serves the airport).

There are also smaller stations serving suburban and regional destinations: St Paul (B: C3-Gare St Paul),Vaise (M: Gare de Vaise), Jean Macé (M: Jean Macé), Vénissieux (M: Gare de Vénissieux) and Gorge deLoup (M: Gorge de Loup).

Lyon is linked by TGV (fast trains) to Paris (two hours) and Marseille (1 hr 36 min). Many other domesticdestinations are served directly, and there are several direct services to Brussels every day (4 hr). TGVs toand from Paris serve both Perrache and Part-Dieu stations; other TGVs generally serve only Part-Dieu.

Coming to Lyon from London by Eurostar [10] (http://www.londonparistrain.com/travel-lyon-eurostar-attractions-hotels-accommodation.html) may be interesting. It is faster and easier to change trains in Lillerather than Paris. Hence, if you are traveling from London, England, the best way would be to take Eurostarfrom St Pancras Station to Gare de Lille Europe and take High Speed Train TGV. If you prefer Paris Gare deNord, you would need to take RER D to Gare de Lyon Station. The total journey time from London to Lyonwill be approx 5h30m. From Paris, you will find other local trains as well to reach Lyon.

For schedules, fares and bookings, see the SNCF website [11] (http://www.voyages-sncf.com) .

By bus

International bus services are operated by Eurolines to and from Perrache station [12](http://www.eurolines.com) .

By car


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Map of the major public tranport lines (metro, tram, trolley bus).

Lyon is a major automotive hub for central and southern France:

A6 to the north — Paris.A7 to the south — Marseille, Nice, Spain, Italy.A43 to the east — Grenoble, the Alps, Northern Italy.A47 to the west — Saint-Étienne, Clermont-Ferrand, Massif Central, west of France.A42 to the northeast — Bourg-en-Bresse, Geneva (Switzerland), Germany.

On foot

The city centre is not so big and most attractions can be reached from each other on foot. The walk fromPlace des Terreaux to Place Bellecour, for example, is about 20 min. The rule of thumb is that metro stationsare generally about 10 min walk apart.

Be careful when crossing major axes: traffic is dense and running red lights is a very popular sport.

You can also visit Lyon in footing. Jogg'in City offers several sightjogging tours of Lyon. [13](http://www.joggincity.fr)

By public transport

Lyon's public transportationsystem, known as TCL [14](http://www.tcl.fr/) , is regardedas one of the most efficient in thecountry. Central areas are verywell served; so are the campusesand eastern suburbs, where manyjobs are concentrated. Thewestern suburbs are moreresidential and can be difficult toreach. As everywhere in France,the network can be perturbed bystrikes from time to time.

There are four metro (subway)lines (A to D). The first line ofthe network was line... C in 1974(lines A and B were alreadyplanned but line C took less timeto complete because it used anexisting funicular tunnel). Line Aopened in 1978. Trains generallyrun every 2 to 10 minutes,depending on the line and thetime. Information screens abovethe platforms display the waitingtimes for the next two trains anduseful information such asdelays, upcoming closures, etc.


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Inside a trolley bus on the C1 line.

Line A (red, Perrache - Vaulx-en-Velin La Soie) serves Presqu'île, the neighbourhoods around Parcde la Tête d'Or and then runs under Cours Emile Zola, Villeurbanne's main artery. The last two stops(Laurent Bonnevay and Vaulx La Soie) provide numerous connections with buses to the easternsuburbs. Line A connects with line D at Bellecour, line C at Hôtel de Ville, line B at Charpennes, tramlines T1 and T2 at Perrache and T3 at Vaulx La Soie. It is very busy during rush hours, especiallybetween Bellecour and Hôtel de Ville.Line B (blue, Charpennes - Stade de Gerland) serves most notably Part Dieu station and Gerlandstadium. It connects with line A at Charpennes and line D at Saxe-Gambetta.Line C (yellow, Hôtel de Ville - Cuire) uses a short cog railway and serves the Croix-Rousse hill. Dueto the configuration of the infrastructure, the frequencies are not very good.Line D (green, Gare de Vaise - Gare de Vénissieux), the busiest of the four lines, is entirelyautomated; this allows good frequency in off-peak hours, especially at night and on Sundays. Thereare many bus connections to the suburbs at Gare de Vaise, Gorge de Loup, Grange Blanche, Parillyand Gare de Vénissieux.

The metro is generally reliable, clean and comfortable. Besides the classical metro, two funiculars run fromVieux Lyon metro station to Saint-Just and Fourvière respectively.

There are also four tram lines (T1 to T4). They are not very interesting if you stay within the city centre;they are most useful to reach campuses and suburban areas.

With more than 100 bus lines, you should be able to go virtuallyanywhere reasonably far away from the centre. Some of themuse trolley (electric) buses; Lyon is one of the few cities inFrance which still use this system. There are two special buslines: C1 and C3, where you will find big articulated trolleybuses which run very frequently. These are sometimes referredto as Cristalis (actually the brand name of the vehicles) butpeople do not really use, or even know about this name.

NOTE: On August 29, 2011, a completelyredesigned bus network has been put inoperation. Make sure you use an up-to-datemap. The bus line numbers given in this article

are still the old ones and will be updated progressively.

Metros and trams run approximately from 5AM to midnight. Some bus lines do not run after 9PM. Check theTCL website for details.

Maps can be found online:

Simple map: [15] (http://tcl.fr/documents/pdf/atoubus-plan-lignes-fortes.pdf)

Detailed map: [16] (http://tcl.fr/documents/pdf/atoubus-lyon-villeurbanne.pdf) . You can ask for acopy of this one in the main metro stations.

The prices are: €1.60 for a single journey (valid for 1 hour after the first use on buses, trams, metro andfuniculars, unlimited number of transfers, no return), €4.90 for a daily pass. Tickets can be purchased fromelectronic kiosks located at the stations, but it is important to note that they do not accept paper money (onlycoins) and foreign credit cards are likely to be rejected. Tobacco shops and newsagents showing a "TCL"sign also sell tickets. Single tickets can be purchased from bus drivers but the price is €2 in that case. Grouptickets are available from the tourist office.


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Public bicycle service Vélo'v

In the directions given in this article, M stands for metro, F for funicular, T for tram and B for bus(line(s) and stop are indicated).

By bicycle

Lyon has an increasing number of safe cycling routes. Problematic points remain, especially when it comesto crossing major roads. Also keep in mind that there are two hills with steep slopes. A map of cycling routesis available online: [17] (http://www.grandlyon.com/fileadmin/user_upload/Pdf/activites/deplacements/pistescyclables_lyon2006.pdf) .

Since May 2005, Lyon has also had a public bicycle servicecalled Vélo'v [18] (http://www.velov.grandlyon.com/Index.1.0.html?&L=1) which allows travellers, after registeringa credit card, to pick up, and drop cycles to and from over 300points around the city. You need a credit card (Visa/MC/FrenchCB) to make use of the service. It is very cheap:

1-day ticket: €1, then free for the first 30 min of eachride, €1 for 30 to 60 min, then €2 every 30 min.7-day ticket: €3, then same fares as the 1-day ticket.

30 min is generally more than enough if you stay close to thecity centre.

If you have taken a bike and realize that it has a problem(broken chains, warped wheels, flat tyres or even missing pedals are commonplace), just put it back into itsplace and repeat the procedure to take another one. Recent improvements to the system have made thisoperation fast and easy.

Note that the system only works with a European credit/debit card. Otherwise the transaction is aborted, noexplanations given on the terminal. It is supposed to accept all cards with a chip, but those with foreign cardscould experience difficulties. Also note that you must rent a bike immediately after purchasing a temporarypass or the ticket will become inactive (this is only true for the first rental). The terminals have only limitedEnglish translation making it a rough start, but once you get to know the system, it is a great way to movearound the city. There are so many bikes that it can sometimes be a problem to return them.

There is an iPhone app called Vélo which can help you find a bike or a free parking slot.

More classical bike rental service is available from:

Lyon Location, 16b rue d'Alsace, 69100 Villeurbanne (M: République), ☎ +33 4 27 46 39 39([email protected]), [19] (http://www.lyonlocation.fr/) . Mon-Sat 9AM-12PM/3PM-7PM, Sunby appointment. Also rents scooters and motorbikes. Adult bike €14/day, €65/week. edit

By car

Traffic is dense, parking is either very difficult or quite expensive, and there are quite few directional signs.Avoid driving within the city if you can. For the city center, look for signs reading "Presqu'île". In thePresqu'île and other central neighbourhoods, it is strongly advised not to park in 'prohibited parking' areas;you could be towed. Tickets for unpaid parking are also commonplace; a specific brigade of the city police isin charge of checking parking payments in the city centre. The penalty for unpaid parking is €11 (you might


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Local specialities you cannot eat

Lyon has an international reputation for the lighting ofbuildings, and not only during the December 8th festival.When the sun sets, many major monuments such as the CityHall, Hôtel-Dieu or the Fourvière basilica are illuminated in aspectacular way. The Lyon II/Lyon III University buildingsalong the Rhône are also among the most beautifulilluminations.

get several tickets in the same day in central neighbourhoods); the penalty for parking in a prohibited area is€35. If you park in a dangerous place (e.g., you block an emergency exit), the fine can be up to €135.

The minimum age to rent a car is 21 and an additional charge may be required for drivers under 25 years old.Major rental companies have offices at Part-Dieu and Perrache railway stations, and at the airport. Best tohire from Part-Dieu, as the subsequent navigation is much easier.

Taxis

Taxis are quite pricey. The fares are fixed by the authorities: €2 when you board, then per km: €1.34(daytime, 7AM-7PM) or €2.02 (night, Sundays, holidays). The driver may charge a minimum of €6 for anytrip. There are also a number of possible extra charges: €1.41 for the 4th passenger, €0.91 per animal or largepiece of luggage, €1.41 for a pickup at a train station or airport.

Taxis cannot be hailed on the street; you need to go to a taxi station or to call for one. The major taxicompanies are:

Lyon Taxi Prestige (Personal Welcome Lyon Airport, City and Wine tours), ☎ +33 687 974 790,[20] (http://www.lyontaxiprestige.com/accueilgb.html) . Lyon Taxi Prestige, for the regular cost of ataxi, provide high level taxi service in Lyon and everywhere in France. Executive and VIP Servicewith personal welcome at Lyon Airports and Train stations. City tours. Ski resort transfers, free Wifion board. edit

Allo Taxi, ☎ +33 4 78 28 23 23. edit

Taxi-Radio, ☎ +33 4 72 10 86 86. edit

Cabtaxi, ☎ +33 4 78 750 750. edit

Lyon may not have world-famous monuments such as the Eiffel tower or the Statue of Liberty, but it offersvery diverse neighbourhoods which are interesting to walk around and hide architectural marvels. As timegoes by, the city also becomes more and more welcoming for pedestrians and cyclists. So a good way toexplore it may be to get lost somewhere and enjoy what comes up, and not to always follow the guide...

A good point for visitors is that mostattractions will not cost you a cent:churches, traboules, parks, etc. For thoseintending to visit several museums(which are almost the only attractionsyou cannot see for free), the Lyon CityCard may be of interest. Available fromthe Tourist office, it costs €18 for oneday, €27 for 2 days and €36 for 3 days. Itincludes unlimited rides on the publictransport network, free or reduced entryfee to major museums and exhibitionsand one guided tour per day per person(Vieux Lyon, Croix-Rousse, etc.). Theprice is still a bit high, so count beforeyou buy to see if this is a good dealconsidering your plans.

Do not hesitate to buy a detailed mapwith a street index from a book shop or a


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The Lyon II university building illuminated at night.

Another local speciality is painted walls: about 100 trompe-l'oeils of all sizes can be seen around the city.

newsagent; many places of interest orgood restaurants are located in smallstreets you will not find on simplifiedmaps, such as the ones you can get fromthe Tourist office.

Whatever the time of year (except forthe Fête des Lumières), tourists are notvery numerous yet, but they concentratein a few small areas, especially Fourvièreand Vieux Lyon, where the pedestrianstreets are just as crowded as theChamps-Elysees sidewalks on sunnyweekends.

Highlights

The classics:

The view from Fourvière basilica,and the basilica itself.

Streets and traboules in Vieux Lyon, St Jean cathedral.

Traboules in Croix-Rousse.

Musées Gadagne.

Parc de la Tête d'Or.

Off the beaten path:

Musée urbain Tony Garnier and Etats-Unis neighbourhood.

St Irénée church, Montée du Gourguillon, St Georges neighbourhood.

A drink on Place Sathonay.

St Bruno church.

Parc de Gerland.

Gratte-ciel neighbourhood in Villeurbanne.

Vieux Lyon

After Venice, the Old Lyon, a narrow strip along the right bank of the Saône, is the largest Renaissance areain Europe (well, it's actually far behind Venice). Its current organization, with narrow streets mainly parallelto the river, dates back to the Middle Ages. The buildings were erected between the 15th and the 17thcenturies, notably by wealthy Italian, Flemish and German merchants who settled in Lyon where four fairswere held each year. At that time, the buildings of Lyon were said to be the highest in Europe. The area wasentirely refurbished in the 1980s and 1990s. It now offers the visitor colorful, narrow cobblestone streets;there are some interesting craftmen's shops but also many tourist traps.

It is divided into three parts which are named after their respective churches:


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The astronomical clock inSt Jean cathedral.

St Paul, north of place du Change, was the commercial area during theRenaissance;St Jean, between place du Change and St Jean cathedral, was home tomost wealthy families: aristocrats, public officers, etc;St Georges, south of St Jean, was a craftsmen's district.

The area is generally crowded in the afternoon, especially at weekends. Toreally enjoy its architectural beauties, the best time is therefore the morning.Around lunchtime, the streets somewhat disappear behind restaurant terraces,postcard racks and the crowd of tourists.

Guided tours in several languages, including English, are available from thetourist office (€9, [21] (http://www.en.lyon-france.com/page/p-1074/art_id-/) ).

St Jean Cathedral, place St Jean (M: Vieux Lyon). M-F 8:15AM-noon,1:45PM-7:30PM, Sa Su 8:15AM-noon, 1:45PM-7PM; services (no visits)M-F 9AM and 7PM, Sa 9AM, Sun 8:30AM and 10:30AM (high mass).Officially, the cathedral is dedicated to both St John the Baptist (StJean-Baptiste) and St Stephen (St Etienne) and has the title of primatialebecause the Bishop of Lyon has the honorary title of Primat des Gaules.Built between 1180 and 1480, it is mostly of Gothic style withRomanesque elements; the oldest parts are the chancel and the lateralchapels, and as one goes towards the facade, the style becomes more andmore Gothic. The cathedral hosts a spectacular astronomical clockoriginally built in the 14th century but modified later. It is especially worthseeing when the bells ring, daily on the hour from noon-4PM. Over themain door, the rose window, known as the "Lamb rose window", is an admirable work of art depictingthe life of St Stephen and St John the Baptist. Free, appropriate dress required. edit

St Jean archaeological garden, rue de la Bombarde/rue Mandelot/rue des Estrées (M: Vieux Lyon).Next to St Jean cathedral (on the northern side), this small garden shows the remains of the religiousbuildings which occupied the site before the cathedral was erected. The oldest remains date back tothe 4th century (baptistery of the former St Etienne church). Free. edit

Traboules, (M: Vieux Lyon). Closed at night. The traboules are a typical architectural feature ofLyon's historical buildings. They are corridors which link two streets through a building, and usually acourtyard. Many traboules are unique architectural masterpieces, largely influenced by Italy andespecially Florence.Some of them are officially open to the public. They link the following addresses:- 54 rue St Jean <> 27 rue du Boeuf (the longest in Lyon)- 27 rue St Jean <> 6 rue des Trois Maries- 2 place du Gouvernement <> quai Romain Rolland.To open the doors, just press the service button next to the door code keyboard. If you are unable toenter from one side, try the opposite entrance. In the morning, many other doors are open for service(mail, garbage collecting), so more traboules are accessible. There are traboules in almost all buildingsbetween Quai Romain Rolland and Rue St Jean/Rue des Trois Maries, and others between Rue St Jeanand Rue du Boeuf.

The buildings are inhabited. As everybody, people who live there like to sleep on Sunday mornings, ormay work at night, or simply prefer not being disturbed, so please be as quiet as possible, regardless ofwhether you are in an 'officially open' or in a 'normally closed' traboule. It is best to whisper when talkingbecause the small courtyards amplify the sound of voices, and even normal conversation can be quite


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Rue St Jean.

disturbing for the inhabitants.

Free. edit

Renaissance courtyards, (M: Vieux Lyon). Closed at night. Besides the buildings cited above, somehave very beautiful courtyards but no real traboules (that is to say, no crossing from one street toanother). The most outstanding are: Maison du Chamarier (37 rue St Jean) and Maison du Crible (16rue du Boeuf), in which stands the famous "Pink Tower". Free. edit

Rue St Jean, (M: Vieux Lyon). This cobblestonepedestrian street is the main axis of the area. It is full ofsouvenir shops and restaurants mainly intended fortourists. Local people are aware that real good bouchonsare extremely rare here. On a sunny Sunday afternoon, itmay be hard to walk because of the crowd of both localsand tourists. You can also check out the more quiet ruedes Trois Maries which runs parallel to rue St Jean,between place de la Baleine and rue du Palais de Justice. edit

Rue du Boeuf, (M: Vieux Lyon). Parallel to Rue St Jean,this street is much more quiet and just as beautiful. It alsohas a number of restaurants, more expensive than in rue StJean but, on average, much more worth the money. edit

Place du Change, (B: C3-Gare St Paul). The largestsquare in the area has two remarkable buildings. The Logedu Change, on the west side, was partially built by thegreat architect Soufflot. It is now a Protestant churchknown as Temple du Change. It can be visited onSaturdays. Religious services on Sundays, 10:30AM.Opposite is the Maison Thomassin, with its Gothic-style 14th-century facade. The Thomassins were apowerful merchant family in the Renaissance. Above the 2nd floor windows are the arms of the Kingof France, of the Dauphin (heir of the Kingdom) and of Duchess Anne of Brittany. Unfortunately, thecourtyard is closed to the public. edit

Rue Juiverie, (B: C3-Gare St Paul). Another typical street of Vieux Lyon. It is named after theJewish community who originally settled there but were expelled in the 14th century. Check out theback courtyard at Hôtel Builloud (number 8); it has a magnificent gallery on the first floor, designedby Philibert Delorme who was one of the most prominent local architects during the Renaissance. edit

St Paul church, rue St Paul (B: C3-Gare St Paul). A very nice church, with mixed Romanesque andGothic styles. The oldest parts are from the 10th century. edit

St Georges neighbourhood, rue St Georges, rue du Doyenné and other smaller streets (M: VieuxLyon). St Georges is the name given to the south part of the Vieux Lyon. It has nice Renaissancebuildings which, however, do not really compare to the palaces of St Jean; on the other hand, it ismuch more quiet than the St Jean area. edit

Montée du Gourguillon, (M: Vieux Lyon/F: Minimes). This picturesque montée (sloping street onhillside) starts behind Vieux Lyon metro station and ends quite close to the Roman theatres ofFourvière. It was the main link between the river Saône and the top of Fourvière throughout theRoman era, Middle Ages and Renaissance. Nowadays it keeps a medieval spirit. Around numbers 5-7is Impasse Turquet, a small cul-de-sac named after Etienne Turquet, an Italian who is said to have


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founded the silk industry in Lyon in 1536. In this small passageway are the oldest houses of the city,dating back to the 13th or 14th century, with wooden balconies. edit

Palais de Justice, Quai Romain Rolland (M: Vieux Lyon). The historical court house, also named "the24 columns", was built between 1835 and 1842 by architect Louis-Pierre Baltard. It is a fine exampleof French "neo-classical" architecture. It now hosts only the criminal court (Cour d'Assises) and thecourt of appeal. The other jurisdictions moved to a new building in Part-Dieu in 1995. The mostfamous trial held there was that of the former head of the Lyon Gestapo, Klaus Barbie, in 1987. Thebuilding is currently undergoing major refurbishment works. edit

Fourvière, Saint-Just

Take the funicular up the hill from Vieux Lyon metro station, or if you are fit, walk up Montée des Chazeaux(starts at the southern end of Rue du Boeuf), Montée St Barthélémy (from St Paul station) or Montée duGourguillon (from the northern end of Rue St Georges, behind Vieux Lyon metro station). This is a 150 m(500 ft) vertical ascent approximately.

Fourvière was the original location of the Roman Lugdunum. In the 19th century, it became the religiouscentre of the city, with the basilica and the Archbishop's offices.

Fourvière basilica, place de Fourvière (F: Fourvière), ☎ +33 4 78 25 86 19, [22](http://www.fourviere.org/) . 10AM-5PM. Masses: Mon-Sat 7:15AM, 9:30AM, 11AM, 5PM, Sun7:30AM, 9:30, 11AM, 5PM. Built in 1872 and dedicated to the Virgin Mary, saint patron of Lyon, thismassive church made of white marble has been compared to an elephant with its feet up. It is a typicalexample of the 19th century "eclectic" style, with architectural elements recalling antique, classicaland Gothic eras. The Byzantine-style interior decoration is extremely exuberant, too much so for somepeople. Free. edit

Panoramic viewpoint, place de Fourvière (F: Fourvière). Next to the basilica is the panoramicviewpoint, with the best view over the city. If the weather is clear, Mont Blanc can be seen in thedistance. This is a very good point to start your visit of the city because you can really see its generallayout. edit

To go down from there, you can take Montée Cardinal Decourtray, then Rue Cléberg and Rue del'Antiquaille which lead to the Roman theatres, or walk down through the Jardins du Rosaire, a nicegarden; then stairways lead to Rue du Boeuf in Vieux Lyon. Of course, you can also take the funicular.

Metal tower, (M: Fourvière). Next to the basilica stands a smaller (86 m, 282 ft) replica of the EiffelTower, completed in 1894. Its construction was supported by anticlerical people in order to have anon-religious building as the highest point in Lyon, which it actually is with an altitude of 372 m (1272ft) at the top. It now serves as a radio and TV antenna and is closed to the public. edit

Roman theatres, (F: Minimes). These two well-preserved theatres are the most important remnant ofthe Roman city of Lugdunum. The Gallo-Roman museum was built next to them. The summer festival"Nuits de Fourvière" takes place here every year, which may cause access restrictions in the eveningfrom June to early August. Free. edit

Saint-Just neighbourhood, south-west of the Roman theatres, has less famous but also interesting historicalsites.

St Irénée church, 51 rue des Macchabées (F: St Just), ☎ +33 4 78 25 43 26, [23] (http://www.lyon-st-irenee.org/) . Church 8:30AM-6PM daily, crypt Sa 2:30PM-5PM, closed in Aug. The oldest churchin Lyon, and one of the oldest in France. The site is built on a Gallo-Roman necropolis which was inuse for centuries, until the Middle Ages. Some sarcophagi from the 5th or 6th century are visible in thecourtyard. The crypt dates back to the 9th century and was renovated in the 19th century. Early


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Christian remains (from the 4th-6th centuries) are kept inside. The church was rebuilt in the 19thcentury in a neo-classical style with a Byzantine influence. An arch from the 5th century remains.Behind the church, the calvary built in 1687 is also a great viewpoint. Free. edit

Croix-Rousse

The area, especially the traboules, may be worth taking a guided tour (available from the tourist office).

Croix-Rousse is known as the "working hill" but for centuries, it had been as much of a "praying hill" asFourvière. On the slopes was the Roman Federal Sanctuary of the Three Gauls, which comprised theamphitheatre (built in 19) and an altar (built in 12 BC). This sanctuary was abandoned at the end of the 2ndcentury. In the Middle Ages, the hill, then called Montagne St Sébastien, was not part of the free town ofLyon but of the Franc-Lyonnais province, which was independent and protected by the King. The slopeswere then dedicated to agriculture, mostly vineyards. In 1512, a fortified wall was built at the top of the hill,approximately where Boulevard de la Croix-Rousse is today. The pentes (slopes) and the plateau weretherefore separated. The slopes became then part of Lyon while the plateau was outside the borders of thecity. Up to thirteen religious congregations then settled on the slopes and acquired vast pieces of land. Theirpossessions were seized and many buildings destroyed during the French Revolution.

Croix-Rousse is known as the main silk production area, but the industry did not exist on the hill until theearly 19th century and the introduction of new weaving technology; at that time, silk had already beenproduced in Lyon for over 250 years. The industry gave birth to a unique architecture: the canuts'apartments had very high ceilings to accommodate the newly introduced Jacquard looms, which were up to 4metres high; tall windows gave the necessary natural lighting for the delicate work; and mezzanines providedspace for family life. The neighbourhood is still one of the most densely populated in Europe. The first revoltof the canuts in 1831 is regarded as one of the first social conflicts of the industrial era. It gave the hill itsreputation of a "rebel" neighbourhood. In 1852, the commune (town) of Croix-Rousse, actually the plateau,was made a district of Lyon. Local people still talk about "going to Lyon" when they go down to the citycentre. Then important works were undertaken, such as the construction of the first funicular in the world,linking the plateau to central Lyon (it started in Rue Terme; the tunnel is now a road tunnel), or the creationof the Croix-Rousse hospital.

Nowadays the plateau keeps a "village" mood, the slopes still have a "rebel" spirit, with many artists andassociations based there, but the sociology of the neighbourhood has considerably evolved with therenovation works and the subsequent rise in real estate prices and massive arrival of upper-middle-classfamilies (bobos). Local authorities, however, are committed to preserving social diversity.

The name "Croix-Rousse" comes from a limestone cross which was erected at the top of the hill in thebeginning of the 16th century. It was then destroyed and rebuilt several times. A replica installed in 1994 canbe seen on Place Joannès Ambre (between the hospital and Croix-Rousse theatre).

Amphithéâtre des Trois Gaules, rue Lucien Sportisse (M: Hôtel de Ville). This Roman theatre is theplace where the first Christian martyrs of Gaul were killed. Documents say that it was the largesttheatre in Gaul at that time, but nobody knows exactly how far it extends under the neighbouringbuildings, nor what remains from the Roman era after centuries of construction. After the recentclosing of the old Fine Arts school (the grey building overlooking the theatre), a debate was initiatedabout what should be done with this exceptional archaeological site. The theatre can be seen from thestreet but is not open to the public for safety reasons. edit

Montée de la Grande Côte, (M: Hôtel de Ville/Croix-Rousse). This steep street has Renaissancebuildings and offers a very beautiful view over the city from its top. edit

Croix-Rousse traboules: Look for the lanterns over the doors and the specific signs.

7 rue Mottet-de-Gérando <> 8 rue Bodin


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9 place Colbert <> 14 bis montée St Sébastien: the beautiful Cour des Voraces.14 bis montée Saint-Sébastien <> 29 rue Imbert-Colomès20 rue Imbert Colomès <> 55 rue Tables Claudiennes30 bis rue Burdeau <> 17 rue René Leynaud (passage Thiaffait)6 rue des Capucins <> 1 rue Sainte Marie des Terreaux12 rue Sainte-Catherine <> 6 place des Terreaux

Mur des Canuts, Boulevard des Canuts (M: Hénon). This painted wall is dedicated to the history andtypical architecture of the Croix-Rousse hill. edit

St Bruno church, 9 impasse des Chartreux (B: 2/13/18/45/61-Clos Jouve), [24] (http://pagesperso-orange.fr/paroissesaintbruno/) . M-Sa 3PM-5PM. The only Baroque church in Lyon. The interior ismagnificent, especially the altar (by Servandoni, modified by Soufflot, 18th century) and the canopy(by Servandoni). Free. edit

Jardin Rosa Mir, 87 grande rue de la Croix-Rousse (M: Hénon), [25] (http://rosa.mir.free.fr) . 1Apr-30 Nov, Sa 3PM-6PM. This amazing garden was built by a Spanish refugee, Jules Senis, anddedicated to his mother. Senis had cancer and had made the vow of building this garden if he evercame out of the hospital; fortunately, he did. The garden is a fine mixture of mineral and vegetalelements, in a style influenced by Gaudi's works in Barcelona. Free. edit

Presqu'île

For the people of Lyon, Presqu'île is the place to go for shopping, dining or clubbing. It also represents alarge part of the city's economic activity.

This narrow peninsula between the Rhône and Saône rivers was largely shaped by man. When the firstinhabitants settled on what was then called Canabae, the junction of the river was located near the currentsite of St Martin d'Ainay basilica. South of this point was an island. From 1772, titanic works led by engineerAntoine-Michel Perrache reunited the island to the mainland. The swamps which existed there were thendried out, which allowed the construction of Perrache station, opened in 1846. Northern Presqu'île waslargely redesigned from 1848; the only remaining Renaissance part is around rue Mercière.

Most of the action on Presqu'île actually takes place between Terreaux and Bellecour. Between Bellecourand Perrache, the neighbourhood of Ainay is traditionally home to the Catholic bourgeoisie. Perrache stationand its "exchange centre" (freeway interchange, car parks, metro and bus station) are a very importantborder; going from one side to the other is a challenge, be it on foot or by car. The area south of Perrache isdealt with in the next section.

Place des Terreaux, (M: Hôtel de Ville). This large square was completely redesigned in the 1990s bythe artist Daniel Buren. On the East side stands the City Hall. On the North side, you will find thefountain sculpted by Bartholdi, the 'father' of the Statue of Liberty; this fountain was moved from theWest side when the square was renovated. It now faces Palais St Pierre, which hosts the Museum ofFine Arts. edit

Hôtel de Ville (City Hall), place des Terreaux and place de la Comédie (M: Hôtel de Ville). The cityhall, built in the 17th century, has a very beautiful facade on Place des Terreaux. The most notablefeature of this facade is the sculpture representing King Henri IV on horseback (in the middle of theupper part). Unfortunately, it is impossible to visit the building except during the "Heritage days"(Journées du patrimoine) in mid-September. edit

Opera house, place de la Comédie (M: Hôtel de Ville). Opposite the City Hall stands the opera house.The 1826 theatre built by Chenavard and Pollet was completely redesigned by Jean Nouvel who keptonly the façades and the foyer on the first floor. The building was reopened in 1993. The history ofthese works was epic: a lot of technical problems occurred and the final cost of the project was six


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City Hall on place des Terreaux.

times the initial estimate. Today, the glass top has becomea classical landmark of the city but the interior design iscriticised, for both aesthetic and functional reasons. edit

Mur des Lyonnais, rue de la Martinière (M: Hôtel deVille). This impressive painted wall portraits some of themost famous people who were born in Lyon, fromRenaissance poet Louise Labé to the Lumière brothers,the inventors of cinema, to chef Paul Bocuse. edit

Place Sathonay, (M: Hôtel de Ville). A charmingneighbourhood square planted with old plane trees. Just sitat a terrace, watch the locals playing pétanque and enjoythe mood. edit

St Nizier church, place St Nizier (M: Hôtel de Ville). Very nice church of flaming Gothic style. edit

Rue Mercière, (M: Cordeliers). This cobblestone pedestrian street is the only significant remain fromthe Renaissance in Presqu'île. The name of the street refers to the clothing industry. There aretraboules connecting the street to the buildings on the Saône bank. The street hosts very numerousrestaurants which are far from being all good. edit

Place des Jacobins, (M: Cordeliers/Bellecour). The state of this square is typical of the "automobile-friendly" urban planning of the 1960s: it is covered with tarmac, too much so given the reasonabletraffic around it. A renovation project is under way, which should give the square a greener aspect.The main interest is the central fountain (1885) by architect Gaspard André and sculptor Degeorges.The four statues portray Lyon-born artists: painter Hippolyte Flandrin (1809-1864), engraver GérardAudran (1640-1703), sculptor Guillaume Coustou (1677-1746) and architect Philibert Delorme(1510-1570). edit

Hôtel-Dieu, place de l'Hôpital (M: Bellecour). The majestic Hôtel-Dieu was the oldest hospital inLyon and is one of the largest buildings in Presqu'île. The facade along the river Rhône is over 300 m(984 ft) long. The first hospital was built in 1184-1185; it was modified several times before Soufflotdesigned the current building, built from 1741 to 1761. The large dome was completed in 1765. Thenewly built Grange Blanche hospital (today Edouard Herriot) became the main medical centre in thecity in the 1930s. Hôtel-Dieu doctors were pioneers in numerous specialities, including radiology(Etienne Destot), oncology (Léon Bérard), surgery (Joseph Gensoul, Matthieu Jaboulay) andorthopedics (Louis Léopold Ollier); they contributed in making Lyon the second medical centre in thecountry after Paris. The building no longer fits the needs of modern medicine, therefore the hospitalhas been closed down in 2010. Its future is not completely clear; it should be at least partiallyconverted into a luxury hotel and shopping mall.Hôtel-Dieu hosts the Lyon hospitals museum (Musée des Hospices civils de Lyon). edit

Théâtre des Célestins, place des Célestins (M: Bellecour). Designed by Gaspard André and openedin 1877, the building has a beautiful Italian-style facade. In the middle of the quiet plaza outside thetheatre stands a strange periscope in which you can see rotating geometric shapes, like a kaleidoscope.Those were actually painted in the car park beneath the plaza by the famous artist Daniel Buren andthey are reflected by a rotating mirror. To enter the car park and see the other side, take the stairwayon your right when looking at the theatre. edit

Place Bellecour, (M: Bellecour). The largest clear square in Europe. In the center stands theequestrian statue of Louis XIV ("under the horse's tail" is a usual meeting point for locals). Apart fromthis, it is rather empty, windy and not so pleasant. A renovation project is under way. Between thesoutheast corner of Place Bellecour and the river Rhône is Place Antonin Poncet. There was a hospitalthere (Hôpital de la Charité), built in 1622 and demolished in 1934. The only remain is the bell tower(Clocher de la Charité) built in 1667. edit


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Place Bellecour seen from the hill of Fourvière

Cité Internationale, from the park side.

Basilique St Martin d'Ainay, rue de l'Abbayed'Ainay (M: Ampère Victor Hugo), ☎ +33 4 72 4002 50, [26] (http://abbayeainay.free.fr) . M-Sa8:30AM-noon, 2:30PM-6PM, Su 8:30AM-noon.The only entirely Romanesque church in Lyon,dating back to the 11th-12th centuries. The abbeyof Ainay was one of the most powerful in Francebetween the 13th and the 16th centuries. Amust-see for its very nice atmosphere. Free. edit

Boat trips on the Saône (Navig'Inter company),Quai des Célestins (M: Cordeliers/Bellecour, nearPasserelle du Palais de Justice), ☎ +33 4 78 4296 81, [27] (http://www.naviginter.fr) . 28 Mar-8Nov, Tu-F 2PM-6PM, Sa Su 11AM-6PM. A boattrip can be a good way to see Lyon from adifferent point of view. Boats will take you either upstream to Ile Barbe or downstream to theConfluence. Night trips available on Fridays and Saturdays. €9, child €6. edit

Confluence

The area south of Perrache is turning from a mostly industrial area into one of the most interestingneighbourhoods in the city. There were until very recently two prisons (closed down Apr 2009), a wholesalefood market (recently moved to Corbas in the southern suburbs) and large warehouses and workshopsbelonging the the national railway company SNCF. One of the largest development plans in Europe was putunder way a few years ago with the construction of a new tram line and the opening of a cultural centre (LaSucrière). The Western side of the area now boasts a number of new buildings, most of which are interestingpieces of contemporary architecture. The new headquarters for the government of Rhône-Alpes region hasjust been put into service, and a new mall is well under way. A new phase of the project is about to start withthe demolition of the huge former wholesale market. However, the construction of the new museum knownas "Musée des Confluences" has faced major problems and its opening is not expected anytime soon.

There are no major attractions per se in the area yet, however it is interesting to take a walk or a bicycle ridethere to see how Lyon can still be evolving after 2000 years of history.

Other areas

Cité Internationale, quai Charles de Gaulle (B: C1). Thisbusiness and residential area is the most important urbanproject Lyon has seen in recent years. Designed by thefamous Italian architect Renzo Piano (also known forBeaubourg modern art centre in Paris and part of thePotsdamer Platz area in Berlin), it comprises a conventioncentre, hotels and luxury apartments just between theRhône and Parc de la Tête d'Or. edit

Etats-Unis neighbourhood, boulevard des Etats-Unis (T:Etats-Unis-Musée Tony Garnier). This neighbourhoodwas built by the famous local architect Tony Garnier in the1920s to house industry workers. Along with EdouardHerriot hospital, it is one of the masterpieces of thisvisionary architect. The main axis of the neighbourhood, boulevard des Etats-Unis, was named tohonour the U.S, which had just entered World War I when the street was opened in 1917. 25 wallpaintings made in the 1980s and 1990s show examples of Garnier's work and his "ideal city projects";


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see also "Musée urbain Tony Garnier" in the museums section. edit

Ile Barbe, (B: 31/40/43-Ile Barbe). This charming island on the river Saône is the only inhabitedisland in Lyon. In the 5th century, one of the first monasteries in Gaul was founded there. It became apowerful Benedictine abbey (from the 9th century) but was finally ruined in 1526 by Protestants,during the religious wars. Of the three churches that existed on the island, only the RomanesqueNotre-Dame remains. The island also has other old buildings in a quiet and green environment. Thesuspension bridge was built in 1827. edit*

Gratte-Ciel, Cours Emile Zola / avenue Henri Barbusse / place Lazare Goujon, 69100 Villeurbanne(M: Gratte-Ciel). The neighbouring city of Villeurbanne can be seen as the 10th arrondissementbecause the urban continuity with Lyon is obvious. It has, however, a strong identity of its own. As anindustrial town, Villeurbanne has always had a very strong left-wing political inclination. It wasgoverned by the Communist party for the first decades of the 20th century. A strong testimony of thisera remains in the form of massive Soviet-style buildings erected in the 1930s. The Gratte-Ciel("skyscrapers") ensemble comprises the city hall, the National Popular Theatre and housing buildings,including the skyscrapers themselves. These are 19 stories high. They are not skyscrapers to Americaneyes, and were not even in the 1930s, but they were considered huge by European standards at thattime. edit

Museums and Galleries

Palais Saint-Pierre / Musée des Beaux Arts (Museum of Fine Arts), 20 place des Terreaux (M:Hôtel de Ville), ☎ +33 4 72 10 17 40, [28] (http://www.mba-lyon.fr/mba/) . M, W, Th, Sa10AM-6PM, F 10:30AM-6PM, partial closures noon-2:15PM, ticket office closes 5:30PM. €6,reduced €4, under 18, EU students, and some others free, audioguide €3 or free for some.. edit

Musée d'Art contemporain (Museum of Contemporary Art), 81 quai Charles de Gaulle (B:C1-Musée d'Art contemporain), ☎ +33 4 72 69 17 18, [29] (http://mac-lyon.com/mac/sections/en) .Wed-Sun 12PM-7PM. Holds only temporary exhibitions which are often very interesting and popular.Fees vary depending on the exhibition. edit

Institut Lumière - Musée vivant du Cinéma, 25 rue du Premier Film (M: Monplaisir-Lumière), ☎+33 4 78 78 18 95, [30] (http://www.institut-lumiere.org/) . Tu-Su 11AM-6:30PM. Closed 1 Jan, 1May, and 25 Dec. Open on bank holiday Mondays. Located in the Lumière brothers' house, thismuseum presents an interesting history of cinema through various items and film excerpts. Also worthseeing for the lovely architecture. €6, under 18 and students €5. edit

Musées Gadagne: Historical museum of Lyon and International puppet museum, 14 rue deGadagne/1 place du Petit Collège (M: Vieux Lyon / B: C3-Gare St Paul), ☎ +33 4 78 42 03 61, [31](http://www.culture.lyon.fr/culture/sections/fr/entite?entiteId=364) . W-Su 11AM-6:30PM exceptpublic holidays. After 10 years of major refurbishment works, these museums dedicated to the historyof the city and to puppets (like the famous Guignol from Lyon) were reopened in June 2009, withgreat public and critical success. The building itself, a magnificent Renaissance palace, is worth a visit.A nice garden and cafe have also been created at the top of the building (free access). 1 museum: €6including audioguide, 2 museums: €8. Under 26 and disabled: free. edit

Musée urbain Tony Garnier, 4 rue des Serpollières (T: Etats-Unis-Musée Tony Garnier), ☎ +33 478 75 16 75, [32] (http://www.museeurbaintonygarnier.com/) . Visitor centre: Tu-Sa 2PM-6PM, guidedtours Sa at 2:30PM or by appointment for groups of 10 or more. This museum was created during therenovation of the Etats-Unis neighbourhood in the 1980s and 1990s, and the inhabitants were stronglyinvolved in the project. The museum comprises a recreated apartment of the 1930s, which shows howlife was like in these very modern housing units, and the 25 wall paintings depicting Garnier's workand ideals. You can also see the walls on your own but you will miss the interesting comments on the


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Museum of Contemporary Art.

history of the area and the social project behind it. Guided tours: €6, under 18 €4, children under 5free; audioguide: €5, under 18 €3, children under 5 free. edit

Centre d'Histoire de la Résistance et de la Déportation (Museum of the Resistance during WorldWar II), 14 avenue Berthelot (T: Centre Berthelot), ☎ +33 4 72 73 33 54, [33](http://www.chrd.lyon.fr) . W-Su 9AM-5:30PM, Closed on holidays. Located in the former Gestaporegional headquarters, this museum depicts the daily life in Lyon under the German occupation andkeeps memories of this tragic period. Often holds exhibitions (mostly photography). €3. Free forchildren under 18. edit

Musée des Arts Décoratifs / Musée des Tissus (Decorative Arts museum / Fabrics museum), 34 ruede la Charité (M: Ampère Victor Hugo), ☎ +33 4 78 38 42 00 ([email protected]), [34](http://www.musee-des-tissus.com) . Tu-Su 10AM-noon, 2PM-5:30PM, closed on holidays. €4.58,groups (10 adults minimum) €3.81, students €2.29, free for children under 18. edit

Musée gallo-romain de Fourvière, 17 rue Cléberg (F:Minimes-Théâtres Romains), ☎ +33 4 72 38 49 30, [35](http://www.musees-gallo-romains.com) . Tu-Su10AM-6PM, closed 1Jan, 1 May, 1 Nov and 25 Dec. Thesecond largest museum in France, it has all kinds of thingsrelating to Rhone-Alps history. A free visit to the Romantheatres may be just as interesting for those not into thedetails. €4, reduced fee €2.50, under 18 and disabled free;free for all on Th. edit

Musée de la Miniature et des Décors de cinéma(Miniature and Movie scenery Museum), 60 rue St Jean(M: Vieux Lyon), ☎ +33 4 72 00 24 77, [36](http://www.mimlyon.com) . M 2PM-6:30PM, Tu-F10AM-6:30PM, Sa Su 10AM-7PM. Created by artist Dan Ohlmann, this private gallery shows about120 miniature models of all kinds of scenes: houses, restaurants, workshops, schools, etc., from Lyonor elsewhere, historical or contemporary. The accuracy of the models is astonishing and some sectionswill be real fun for children. Movie sceneries are also presented. The gallery is in a large 16th-centurybuilding called Maison des Avocats (Lawyers' house). €7, under 15/student €5.50. edit

Musée des Hospices civils de Lyon (Lyon hospitals museum), 1 place de l'Hôpital (M: Bellecour), ☎+33 4 72 41 30 42, [37] (http://www.chu-lyon.fr/internet/chu/musee/musee_presentation.htm) . M-F1PM-6PM except public holidays. This museum recreates the rich history of medicine in Lyon; it alsoexhibits art works donated to the hospitals by their benefactors (paintings, sculptures, pieces offurniture). A number of items come from the former Hôpital de la Charité, demolished in 1934. Fullfee €4, student €2. edit

Musée de l'Imprimerie (Printing museum), 13 rue de la Poulaillerie (M: Cordeliers), ☎ +33 4 78 3765 98 ([email protected]), [38] (http://www.imprimerie.lyon.fr) . W-Su 9:30AM-noon,2PM-6PM, closed on holidays. Visit it only if you're a printing specialist, the collection is important,but it is presented in a totally outdated way. €3.80, students in groups: €2. edit

Parks and Gardens

Parc de la Tête d'Or, Between boulevard des Belges, quai Charles de Gaulle and boulevard deStalingrad (M: Masséna / B: C1-several stops around the park). 15 Oct -14 Apr 6:30AM-8:30PM, 15Apr-14 Oct 6:30AM-10:30PM. Completed in 1862, this 105-hectare English-style garden is one of thelargest and arguably one of the most beautiful urban parks in France. It is a popular place for familiesas well as joggers. The highlights of the park include the large greenhouses, the botanical garden, the


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The large greenhouses in Parc de la Têted'Or.

rose garden and the recently added "African plain" inwhich animals wander in a natural-style environment,perfect for children. edit

Rhône banks, quai Charles de Gaulle, ave de Grande-Bretagne, quai de Serbie, quai Sarrail, quai Augagneur,quai Claude Bernard, ave Leclerc (M: Foch, Guillotière,Stade de Gerland). The right bank of the river Rhône hasrecently been turned from an ugly car park into a 5-kmpromenade with various landscapes and great views overthe Croix-Rousse and Presqu'Ile areas. The place hadimmediate success among locals. A bicycle is perfect toenjoy it, except on sunny weekends, when it is toocrowded to ride safely. edit

Parc de Gerland, avenue Jean Jaurès (M: Stade de Gerland). The Rhône banks promenade endshere. This recent park does not have the majesty of Parc de la Tête d'Or but it is far less crowded andboasts some nice examples of modern landscaping. Still under development, it should cover 80hectares when completed. edit

Parc des Hauteurs, place de Fourvière/Montée Nicolas de Lange (F: Fourvière). Located betweenthe metal tower of Fourvière and the Loyasse cemetery, this is rather a promenade with a nicefootbridge offering great views towards the Monts d'Or and Beaujolais. There is an aerial adventurecourse and a skiing and moutain bike slope. edit

Jardin des Curiosités (Garden of Curiosities), Passage des Hauts de St Just (F: Minimes/St Just).Small garden hidden in the bottom of a street/car park, behind a metallic door. It was designed byCanadian artists in a surrealistic spirit (recalls Magritte or Dali). Also a very nice viewpoint over thesouthern part of Lyon. edit

Cultural events are listed by two weekly magazines: Le Petit Bulletin (free, available in cinemas, theatres,some bars, etc. and online [39] (http://www.petit-bulletin.fr/) ) and Lyon Poche (from newsagents or online[40] (http://www.lyonpoche.com) ).

Early booking is often necessary for the major institutions (Auditorium, opera house, Célestins and Croix-Rousse theatres). The big names sell out months in advance. Unlike London or New York, there is no placein Lyon where you can buy reduced-price tickets for same day shows. (There used to be one but it was veryshort-lived, possibly because it had too few seats to sell.)

Music, dancing and opera

Auditorium, 84 rue de Bonnel (M: Part-Dieu), ☎ +33 4 78 95 95 95, [41](http://www.auditoriumlyon.com) . The Lyon National Orchestra plays in this impressive, modernconcert hall which also hosts some jazz and world music concerts. edit

Opera house, 1 place de la Comédie (M: Hôtel de Ville), ☎ +33 4 72 00 45 00, [42](http://www.opera-lyon.com) . The old opera house was completely redesigned by Jean Nouvel in the1990s and hosts opera and dancing shows, along with a few other concerts (especially jazz) in thesmaller "Amphithéâtre" room. edit

Transbordeur, boulevard Stalingrad, Villeurbanne (B: C1-Palais des Congrès), ☎ +33 4 78 93 08 33,[43] (http://www.transbordeur.fr) . The medium-sized hall (capacity 1,500) for rock or popular music


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concerts. edit

Ninkasi, 267 rue Marcel Mérieux (M: Stade de Gerland), ☎ +33 4 72 76 89 00, [44](http://www.ninkasi.fr) . This is a modern-day institution in Lyon. Ninkasi has two places for livemusic: Kafé (free shows, essentially electronic music) and Kao (a concert hall dedicated to rock andelectronic music). It is also a beer brewery and has bars all over the Presqu'île, and also inVilleurbanne. edit

Maison de la Danse, 8 avenue Jean Mermoz (T: Bachut), ☎ +33 4 72 78 18 18, [45](http://www.maisondeladanse.com) . A theatre dedicated to modern dancing. Also a fine example ofarchitecture of the 1960s. edit

Theatre

Lyon has a large number of theatres ranging from tiny "cafés-théâtres" to big municipal institutions. You canenjoy any type of show from comedy to classical drama to avant-garde productions.

Théâtre des Célestins, Place des Célestins (M: Bellecour), ☎ +33 4 72 77 40 00, [46](http://www.celestins-lyon.org) . The historical theatre, in a beautiful 19th century building by GaspardAndré, recently refurbished. Serious programme. edit

Théâtre de la Croix-Rousse, place Joannès Ambre (M: Hénon), ☎ +33 4 78 27 90 42, [47](http://www.croix-rousse.com) . 'The other' theatre, with a more avant-garde programme. edit

TNP, 8 place Lazare Goujon, Villeurbanne (M: Gratte-Ciel), ☎ +33 4 78 03 30 00, [48](http://www.tnp-villeurbanne.fr) . Jean Vilar's spirit of 'popular theatre' lives on in the historicallyleft-wing Villeurbanne. edit.

Théâtre Tête d'Or, 60 avenue du Maréchal de Saxe (B: C3-Saxe-Lafayette / T: Saxe-Préfecture / M:Place Guichard), ☎ +33 4 78 62 96 73, [49] (http://www.theatretetedor.com) . This is the only theatrein Lyon showing popular comedies in the Parisian "boulevard" style. edit

There are also a number of small independent theatres. Check out Les Ateliers, Espace 44, Théâtre desClochards Célestes.

"Café-théâtre" is a very nice way to spend an evening with a show (usually comedy), drinks and food. Hereis a small selection:

Complexe du Rire, 7 rue des Capucins (M: Hôtel de Ville), ☎ +33 4 78 27 23 59, [50](http://www.complexedurire.com) . Two rooms and talented young comedians. edit

Espace Gerson, 1 place Gerson (B: C3-Gare St Paul), ☎ +33 4 78 27 96 99, [51](http://www.espacegerson.com) . edit

The 200-year-old Guignol is a very famous character of puppet theatre. This irreverent canut whofrequently challenges the law in his adventures was created by Laurent Mourguet, a canut himself, in 1808.The main side characters in Guignol shows are his wife Madelon, his Beaujolais-drinking friend Gnafron andthe policeman, who always ends up being ridiculous. It was only in the 1950s that Guignol became achildren's favourite. Nowadays, a few theatres perpetuate the tradition for children and adults.

Théâtre le Guignol de Lyon (Compagnie des Zonzons), 2 rue Louis Carrand (B: C3-Gare St Paul),☎ +33 4 78 28 92 57, [52] (http://www.guignol-lyon.com) . The largest Guignol theatre, showingoriginal creations for children and adults. €9, child under 15 €7. edit


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Véritable Guignol du Vieux Lyon et du Parc, place de Guignol, Parc de la Tête d'Or (M: Masséna /B: C1-several stops around the park), ☎ +33 4 78 28 60 41, [53] (http://www.theatre-guignol.com/) .W, Sa Sun, bank and school holidays 3PM, 4PM, 5PM, 6PM. Especially intended for children, thisoutdoor theatre is conveniently located within the park, near the lake and the zoo. edit

Cinemas

Institut Lumière, Rue du Premier Film, 69008 Lyon (M: Monplaisir-Lumière), ☎ +33 4 78 78 18 95,[54] (http://www.institut-lumiere.org/) . The museum also has a theatre showing thematic series ofcinema masterpieces (in original version). The theatre is in the former Lumière factory, which was thescenery of the first movie in history (La sortie des usines Lumière). edit

Comoedia, 13 avenue Berthelot, 69007 Lyon (T: Centre Berthelot), ☎ +33 4 26 99 45 00, [55](http://www.cinema-comoedia.com) . After a few years of closure followed by refurbishment works,this independent cinema is now very comfortable and has a relatively avant-garde programme. Allforeign movies are shown in original version. edit

CNP, Bellecour: 12 rue de la Barre, 69002 Lyon; Terreaux: 40 rue du Président Edouard Herriot,69001 Lyon (M: Bellecour,Hôtel de Ville). Two independent cinemas; the Bellecour branch has themost avant-garde programme. All foreign movies in original version. edit

Pathé, [56] (http://www.cinemasgaumontpathe.fr) . This major national firm has four theatres in Lyon(Cordeliers, Bellecour, Vaise, Carré de Soie) offering essentially American blockbusters andmainstream French movies. The Bellecour branch has foreign films in original version. edit

UGC, [57] (http://www.ugc.fr) . The other major cinema firm, has three theatres in Lyon (Part-Dieu,Cité Internationale, Astoria). The Astoria (M: Masséna) has foreign movies in original version. edit

Sports

Olympique Lyonnais, Stade de Gerland, 69007 Lyon (M: Stade de Gerland), [58](http://www.olweb.fr) . The local football (soccer) team have been national champions from 2002through 2008. Their ladies' team also dominates the championship. They play at Gerland stadium, builtby Tony Garnier in the 1930s and renovated for the 1998 World Cup. Tickets are not too difficult toget, except for major European matches. edit

ASVEL, Astroballe, 69100 Villeurbanne (M: Laurent Bonnevay), [59] (http://www.asvel.com) . TheVilleurbanne basketball team has a long history as one of the major clubs in the country. edit

LOU Rugby, Stade Vuillermet, av. Paul Santy, 69008 Lyon (M: Mermoz-Pinel), [60](http://www.lourugby.com) . The rugby team of Lyon plays in the top flight for the first time thisseason (2011-2012). edit

Jogg'in City, ☎ 00 33(0)6 77 79 35 14 ([email protected]), [61] (http://www.joggincity.fr) . 7/7dto 6:30am to 9pm. Sightjogging Lyon, run and visit Lyon. Jogg'in City a fun way to discover the city.[62] (http://www.joggincity.fr) 15€/pers for a group of 4 or +, 50€ for individuals. edit

Lyon is an important university center. French language courses are available at Inflexyon [63](http://www.inflexyon.com/ENG) , Alliance Francaise [64] (http://www.aflyon.org) , Lyon-Bleu [65](http://www.lyon-bleu.fr) , Ecole Interculturelle de Francais [66] (http://www.eife2f.com) . If you look for animmersion program, you can have a look at ESL schools groups Learn French in Lyon with ESL [67](http://www.esl-schools.org) .


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Money can be made by giving private English lessons. Most French are keen to speak English. There aresome schools which accept non-TEFL qualified teachers, but obviously a qualification helps. Try Berlitz orDemos. There are several anglophone pubs which employ young anglophone workers, occasionally withlimited French. Speaking French to a reasonable level is often a must, even though bar vocabulary is limited.There is an ANPE next to the Opera on Rue de la Republique. Just go in, you don't have to book, and thereare lots of job vacancies to be found. Also search for a shelf with black folders on it. They contain details ofbetter paid jobs.

The usual hours for downtown shopping are 10AM-7PM, Monday to Saturday. Some larger places close a bitlater (7:30PM). Shops are closed on Sundays, except in December and in Vieux Lyon where Sunday is thebusiest day of the week!

La Part-Dieu, Boulevard Vivier-Merle, 69003 Lyon (M: Part-Dieu), [68] (http://www.partdieu.com) .Mon-Sat 10AM-8PM. A huge shopping mall (the largest downtown mall in Europe) on four levels,with most major fashion brands. Avoid Saturday afternoons, the place is awfully crowded. edit

Rue de la République, 69002 Lyon (M: Cordeliers/Bellecour). This pedestrian street is the maindowntown shopping spot. Also check out Rue du Président Edouard Herriot (more expensive ingeneral) and Rue de Brest; these three streets run parallel to each other along Presqu'île. edit

Rue du Président Edouard Herriot, rue Gasparin, rue Emile Zola, rue des Archers, 69002 Lyon(M: Bellecour). In the "golden square" between Place Bellecour and Place des Jacobins, you will finda number of famous luxury brands. edit

Rue Victor Hugo, 69002 Lyon (M: Bellecour/Ampère Victor Hugo/Perrache). Brand names andtourist traps south of Bellecour. edit

Rue Auguste Comte, 69002 Lyon (M: Bellecour/Ampère Victor Hugo). Parallel to rue Victor Hugo,this is where you will find most antique shops in Lyon. edit

Carré de Soie, Avenue de Böhlen, 69120 Vaulx-en-Velin (M/T: Vaulx-en-Velin La Soie), [69](http://www.carredesoie.fr) . Mon-Sat 10AM-7:30PM, some stores open Sun. New shopping mall(opened April 2009) with fashion stores, restaurants and a cinema multiplex, in a developing suburbanarea. edit

Food

Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse, 102 cours Lafayette, 69003 Lyon (B: C3-Halles Paul Bocuse, M/T:Part-Dieu). Tue-Sat 7AM-12PM and 3PM-7PM, Sun 7AM-12PM. Formerly located on Place desCordeliers, the Halles moved to the Part-Dieu area in 1971. If you want the very best food, this is theplace to go. It has a price however. edit

Croix-Rousse market, Boulevard de la Croix-Rousse, 69001 Lyon (M: Croix-Rousse). Tue-Sun7AM-1PM. Very popular and typical market mith many local producers. On Tuesdays, also sellsnon-food items. Very crowded on sunny Sundays, but this is the right time to enjoy the particular moodof the neighbourhood. edit

St Antoine market, Quai St Antoine and Quai des Célestins, 69002 Lyon (M: Cordeliers). Tue-Sun7AM-1PM. The other major market, in a wealthier part of town. Also some local fruit and vegetableproducers. Eating oysters by the Saône is a very pleasant occupation before Sunday lunch. edit


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St Antoine market on a Sunday morning.

Bahadourian, 20 rue Villeroy, 69003Lyon (M: Guillotière), ☎ +33 4 78 60 3210, [70] (http://www.bahadourian.com) .Mon-Fri 8:30AM-12:30PM / 2:30PM-7:30PM, Sat 8:30AM-7:30PM. A largeOriental shop, with all kinds of exoticfoods, especially North African. In theheart of the picturesque Guillotièreneighbourhood. edit

Wine

Antic Wine, 18 rue du Boeuf, 69005 Lyon(M: Vieux Lyon), ☎ +33 4 78 37 08 96([email protected]), [71](http://www.anticwine.com) . Tue-Sun11AM-8PM. This tiny shop has an exceptional selection of wines from all over the world. Veryinteresting selection of Rhône valley wines, amazing collection of old Burgundies. Very reasonableprices. Also a must-see for port amateurs, with the largest selection in France and prices ranging from€12 to €3,000. edit

Vercoquin, 33 rue de la Thibaudière, 69007 Lyon (M: Saxe-Gambetta), ☎ +33 4 78 69 43 87([email protected]), [72] (http://www.vercoquin.com) . Tue-Sat 10AM-8PM, Sun 10AM-1PM.This wine store is specialised in organic and "natural" wines. It is also a wine bar, all bottles of theshop can be drunk there with a price supplement of €6. edit

Restaurants have their menus with prices displayed outside. As everywhere in France, the prices alwaysinclude service, bread and tap water (ask for a carafe of water). Tipping is rare and only expected if you areparticularly satisfied with the service. This is especially true in budget or mid-range restaurants, maybe lessso in expensive places where it may be considered more appropriate; nothing is compulsory, though. Typicaltips depend, of course, on the price of the menu and your level of satisfaction but they are generally not ashigh as in the US, for example. If you pay by credit card and wish to add a tip, you can tell the person incharge how much he/she should charge your card.

Meal times are generally 12PM-2PM for lunch and 7:30PM-10PM for dinner. Visitors from areas such asNorth America and Northern Europe might be surprised to find many places still closed at their usual dinnertimes. Places offering all-day service are located in tourist areas, and are unlikely to serve quality fresh food.Late-night service is quite rare in quality restaurants, but you can always get the usual fast-food or kebab.

The traditional restaurants in Lyon are called bouchons; the origin of the word is unclear (it literally means"cork"). They appeared at the end of the 19th century and flourished in the 1930s, when the economic crisisforced wealthy families to fire their cooks, who opened their own restaurants for a working-class clientele.These women are referred to as mères (mothers); the most famous of them, Eugénie Brazier, became one ofthe first chefs to be awarded three stars (the highest ranking) by the famous Michelin gastronomic guide. Shealso had a young apprentice called Paul Bocuse. Eating in a good bouchon is certainly a must-do. They servethe typical local dishes:

salade lyonnaise (Lyon salad): green salad with bacon cubes, croutons and a poached egg;

saucisson chaud: a hot, boiled sausage; can be cooked with red wine (saucisson beaujolais) or in abun (saucisson brioché);


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Good bouchons?

A local association awarded the"Authentique bouchon lyonnais" labelto 22 restaurants all over town (butmostly on Presqu'île), considering thequality of their food and wine, thetypicity of their decor and the owner'sstrong personality. They have a metalplate on their façade representingGnafron, Guignol's friend, with his glassof Beaujolais.

quenelle de brochet: dumpling made of flour and egg with pike fish and a crayfish sauce (Nantuasauce);

tablier de sapeur: marinated tripes coated with breadcrumbs then fried, even locals often hesitatebefore trying it;

andouillette: sausage made with chopped tripes, usually served with a mustard sauce;

gratin dauphinois: the traditional side dish, oven-cooked sliced potatoes with cream;

cervelle de canut (canut brain): fresh cheese with garlic and herbs.

rognons de veau à la moutarde: veal kidneys in a mustard sauce. Delicious and textural experience.

These dishes are very tasty. They were originally workers' food, so they are generally fat and the portions areusually quite big. The quality is very variable since the bouchons are one of the main tourist attractions ofthe city. A good tip: never trust big signs reading "Véritable bouchon lyonnais" (genuine bouchon) or with alist of typical dishes on the front window. Those who need to write this are most often tourist traps. In touristareas, most notably Rue St Jean, pay extra care and stick to trustworthy recommendations if possible. And ifsomeone on the street tries to get you into a restaurant, run. A good bouchon, however, offers very goodvalue for money.

In bouchons and other lower- to mid-range restaurants, basicwines can be served by the pot, a typical bottle containing 46cl and filled from a cask or wine box. The smaller fillette (littlegirl) contains 28 cl. This is definitely cheaper than a 75 clbottle, but the quality is not always guaranteed...

Lyon was named "capital of gastronomy" by the greatgastronomic writer Curnonsky in 1935; at that time there wereno exotic restaurants, no diets and nobody was talking aboutfusion cuisine or bistronomy. Fortunately, the localgastronomy has considerably evolved since then and there isnow far more to dining in Lyon than the bouchons. Kebabshops, Asian food, bistros, three-star restaurants: Lyon hasthem all.

The locals are generally fond of eating out and the best places get known quickly by word of mouth.Moreover, the restaurants are quite small on average. It is strongly advised to book a table, especially fordinner, otherwise you may end up in one of the multiple tourist traps. Since many good local chefs seem toenjoy a good family weekend, there are a lot more interesting options on weekdays.

Budget

Chez Mounier — A traditional bouchon (restaurant) with good food for a very reasonable price (acomplete menu for €10). Located on the south-east street of the Place Bellecour.

La Vieille Canaille - A typical french restaurant where the atmosphere is friendly. You will enjoy thelarge range of wine, the menu explanation and wine suggestions of the waiter. English speaking/menuin english - Terrace in summer - First course + Main course + Dessert = 23€ - Open from Tuesday tosaturday. /+33(0)4 04 72 71 47 12/ 14 rue Saint Jérôme - 69007 LYON

Otherwise, kebab shops abound, most with the same price: €4.50 for a kebab, €5 for a kebab withfrites. Look especially near Place des Terreaux (M: Hôtel de Ville).


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El Loco Latino, 15 min across the Rhone from Hotel de Ville. Latino bar with low budget food. Theday menu is €7.50 and the empanada is €4.

Wallace Bar, 2 rue Octavio Mey, 69005 Lyon (B: C3-Gare St Paul), ☎ +33 4 72 00 23 91, [73](http://www.wallacebarlyon.com/) . Food served Mon-Sat 12PM-3PM/7PM-10PM, Sun 11AM-9PM.This nice pub is a good spot for drinks and live sports, but also serves good British and French food inlarge portions. From €8. edit

Many bakeries offer good quality sandwiches, made with fresh baguette of course. Try, for example,Chez Jules, 7 rue Octavio Mey, 69005 Lyon (B: C3-Gare St Paul), or Kayser, Place Louis Pradel,69001 Lyon (M: Hôtel de Ville).

Mid-range

Le Resto d'Alice, 34, Rue Sergent Blandan (Rue de Capucins begins just south of Croix Paquetmetro station, take it 300m west; note street name changes), ☎ +33 4 78 28 09 33. Small bouchonwith cute rustic interior and patio located on nice green plaza. The Andouillette and gratin dauphinoisare particularly good. Service is very friendly. Also surrounded by other interesting looking eatingoptions and convenient velo'v station on plaza. Full dinner w/dessert and wine €30. edit

Bouchon Chez Paul, 11 rue du Major Martin, 69001 Lyon (M: Hôtel de Ville), ☎ +33 4 78 28 35 83([email protected]), [74] (http://www.chezpaul.fr) . Closed Sun, Mon (lunch). A very goodbouchon serving huge portions. Noisy and friendly. Full menu €25. edit

La Mâchonnerie, 36 rue Tramassac, 69005 Lyon (M: Vieux Lyon), ☎ +33 4 78 42 24 62, [75](http://www.lamachonnerie.com/) . Dinner only except Sat, closed Sun. Traditional local cuisine, butthe place is more comfortable than a bouchon. Delicious, genuine, home-made dishes served in verylarge quantities, and a very good wine list favouring the locals - a very good place to taste the realBeaujolais. Upon reservation, the restaurant can accommodate quite large groups. Full menu €28-45. edit

Le Resto, 20, rue Mulet (Just off rue de la Republique). Very nice little restaurant with great Lyonfood and very lovely decor. Very Reasonable wine prices as well. edit

Chez Martial, 34 rue Saint Jean (M: Vieux Lyon), ☎ +33 4 78 38 31 75. Tiny bouchon, maybe theonly acceptable one in a street full of tourist traps. Menu €19. edit

Le Layon, 52 rue Mercière (M: Cordeliers), ☎ +33 4 78 42 94 08. Mon-Sun, lunch and dinner.Serves all day (12PM-12AM) on Sat and Sun. In another street full of tourist traps, this restaurantoffers very good, classical local and French cuisine. Try the grenouilles (frogs). Very nice terrace.Good wine list at interesting prices. Full menu €23.50/27.50. edit

Les Adrets, 30 rue du Boeuf, 69005 Lyon (M: Vieux Lyon), ☎ +33 4 78 38 24 30. Very good classicFrench cuisine, made from quality products, in a nice decor. One of the best places in the area. Lunchfrom €13, dinner €23 to €38. edit

Le Potager des Halles, 3 rue de la Martinière, 69001 Lyon (M: Hôtel de Ville), ☎ +33 4 72 00 2484, [76] (http://www.lepotagerdeshalles.com/) . Closed Sun, Mon. This restaurant serves traditionalFrench cuisine made from very good and very fresh products, with a Mediterranean influence. Thechocolate fondant dessert is amazing. Very good wine list too. The lunch menu is an absolute steal.Lunch €16.50, dinner €34/38. If you want cheaper but just as good, try Le Bistrot du Potager nextdoor, where the same owners serve Spanish-style tapas which are a great value for money (noreservations). edit


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Balthaz'Art, 19 rue des Pierres Plantées (M: Croix-Rousse), ☎ +33 4 72 07 08 88, [77](http://www.restaurantbalthazart.fr/) . Lunch Thu-Sat, dinner Tue-Sat. Croix-Rousse has more andmore interesting restaurants, and this one is a fine example. In a "flea-market-meets-art-gallery" decor,you will enjoy a fresh and creative cuisine with Mediterranean and Asian influences. Nice wine list,and it is still possible to get a table at a relatively short notice. Full menu €25/28. edit

L'Art et la Manière, 102 Grande rue de la Guillotière, 69007 Lyon (M: Saxe-Gambetta), ☎ +33 4 3727 05 83, [78] (http://www.art-et-la-maniere.fr) . Closed Sat, Sun, Mon dinner. Small no-touristrestaurant in a no-tourist area. Friendly yet professional service, short menu but very creative,high-quality cooking. Good (although short) wine list. The best bottles are at amazingly low pricesgiven their "constant mark-up" policy. Lunch from €16, dinner €26/33. edit

Brasserie Georges, 30, cours de Verdun (Located behind Perrache Station), ☎ +33 (0)4 72565456,[79] (http://www.brasseriegeorges.com/index.php?idLang=2) . An exceptional traditional Brasserie,serving traditional food with an Alsatian leaning in a fine interior. A real Art Deco treat. Founded in1836, with a tradition of high quality service. It also contains a brewery and bar and the interior isworth a look even if you don't want to eat. from €25 to 35. edit

L'Ouest, 1 quai du Commerce, 69009 Lyon (M: Gare de Vaise), ☎ +33 4 37 64 64 64, [80](http://www.nordsudbrasseries.com) . A brasserie owned by Paul Bocuse, near the river Saône. Thespecialities are fish and cuisine of the Caribbean. Full menu from €24. edit

Le Bistrot de St-Paul, 2 quai de Bondy, 69005 Lyon (B: C3-Gare St Paul), ☎ +33 4 78 28 63 19,[81] (http://www.bistrotdestpaul.fr) . This restaurant serves mostly specialities from southwesternFrance (duck, foie gras, cassoulet...). Lunch €14.50, dinner €21.50/29.50/33. edit

Espace Le Bec, Le Centre, upper level, St Exupéry airport, ☎ +33 4 72 22 71 86. Before boardingyour return flight, you can treat yourself with a last fine meal in Lyon. This place was opened byNicolas Le Bec, who once ran the most trendy gastronomic restaurant in the city and offers qualitybistronomic cuisine. 2-course menu from €20, 3-course menu from €25. edit

Splurge

Paul Bocuse (Auberge du Pont de Collonges), 40 rue de la Plage, 69660 Collonges-au-Mont-d'Or, ☎+33 4 72 42 90 90, [82] (http://www.bocuse.fr/) . The master of all chefs. Taste the legend of"Monsieur Paul", who is over 80 years old and still runs this palace restaurant... and many others.From €100. edit*

Au 14 Février, 6 rue Mourguet (M: Vieux Lyon), ☎ +33 4 78 92 91 39, [83](http://www.au14fevrier.com/vieux-lyon/) . Tue-Sat dinner only. If you can book at least two monthsin advance and are ready for a "surprise" menu, this tiny place (16 seats!) run by Japanese chefTsuyoshi Arai is a rather unique experience. Just tell your waiter what you don't like or can't eat, andyou will be served a five- or nine-course menu that changes every day. The cuisine is French withJapanese hints, amazingly creative, and most importantly delicious. Menu €52/€75. edit

La Mère Brazier — Mathieu Viannay, 12 rue Royale, 69001 Lyon (M: Hôtel de Ville), ☎ +33 4 7823 17 20, [84] (http://www.lamerebrazier.fr) . The restaurant opened in 1921 by the legendary EugénieBrazier was recently taken over by the talented young chef Mathieu Viannay and awarded 2 stars bythe Michelin guide only a few months after its opening. Revisited all-time classics (Bresse poultry withtruffles, artichokes with foie gras). Lunch menu €35, dinner menus €55/75/95. edit

L'Auberge de l'Ile, Place Notre-Dame, île Barbe, 69009 Lyon (B: 40/43/31-Ile Barbe), [85](http://www.aubergedelile.com) . One of the best places in Lyon, in a 17th century building on a lovelyisland on the Saône. Menus €95/125. edit


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Têtedoie, Montée du Chemin Neuf, 69005 Lyon (F: Minimes), ☎ +33 4 78 29 40 10([email protected]), [86] (http://www.tetedoie.com) . A new address for a well-recognizedchef. The previous restaurant had a classic dining room on the banks of the Saône. Têtedoie is nowtaking his restaurant to the next level with a prestigious location offering one of the best views in townand a very contemporary decor, with the same culinary spirit and prices. The wine list is so big theyhave to carry it around on a trolley. The place also features a wine bar, a "bistro-style" terrace(€40/50) and an Italian restaurant. Lunch €40, dinner €56/68/76/96. edit

Ice cream, pastries, brunch

Chez Jules, Place Saint Paul, Lyon (M: Vieux Lyon). A fantastically authentic bakery. Try the tarteaux fraises and the mini quiches. Perfect for breakfast, a snack or an early lunch. edit

Nardone, 3 place Ennemond Fousseret/26 quai de Bondy, (B: C3-Gare St Paul / M: Vieux Lyon), ☎+33 4 78 28 29 09, [87] (http://www.glaciernardone.com/) . Summer: Mon-Sun 9AM-1AM, winter:Wed-Sun 10AM-7PM, closed Dec 31-Mar 10. Delicious ice cream with very original flavours, servedon a very pleasant terrace. Completely overcrowded on sunny weekends, be prepared to queue... but itis worth the wait if you are a real ice cream fan. From €7. edit

Boulangerie du Palais, 8 rue du Palais de Justice (M: Vieux Lyon), ☎ +33 4 78 37 09 43. In thissmall bakery, you will find good praline tarts, a popular local dessert. edit

Les Enfants Gâtés, 3 place Sathonay (M: Hôtel de Ville), ☎ +33 4 78 30 76 24. Summer: Mon-Sun12PM-12AM, winter: Tue-Sun 10AM-7PM. Very good ice cream, on a lovely neighbourhood square.Also a good Sunday brunch. edit

Pain et Cie, 13 rue des Quatre Chapeaux (M: Cordeliers), ☎ +33 4 78 38 29 84. Mon-Sat7AM-10:30PM. This place is quite popular for its Sunday brunch. Brunch €18. edit

Quai des Arts, 8 bis quai Saint-Vincent (B: 19/31/44 - Subsistances or Homme de la Roche), ☎ +334 72 00 97 36, [88] (http://www.restaurant-quaidesarts.com/) . Brunch Sun 11AM-3PM. Therestaurant of the Subsistances cultural centre has Sunday brunch, the food is varied and tasty and theplace is very pleasant, overlooking the Saône. Book in advance and ask for a table upstairs. Brunch€22. edit

Boulangerie Paul, 1 Rue de Brest. Pastries and baguettes make it good for breakfast or lunch, and agreat setting to eat it in if you can grab one of the little tables. edit

Lyon offers some nice nightlife. A good starting point is Place des Terreaux and then upwards towards theCroix Rousse. In the streets that climb the hill there are many nice places.

English/Irish pubs

Foreign students often gather in English or Irish pubs, which are more particularly concentrated in the VieuxLyon area. English-speaking staff everywhere of course...

Kelly's Irish Pub, 12 quai Romain Rolland (M : Vieux Lyon), ☎ +33 4 78 85 53 31([email protected]). 3PM-3AM daily. Irish pub, live music on saturday, irish music sessionson thursday, quiz every monday, pool, darts, irish and english pub food, air conditioning edit

Albion, 12 rue Sainte Catherine (M: Hôtel de Ville), ☎ +33 4 78 28 33 00. Beer, whiskey and rock.


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"The best pub quiz in Lyon" - Special Music Quiz once a month. edit

Paddy's Corner, 4 Rue de la Terrasse (M: Croix-Rousse), ☎ +33 9 52 11 21 76, [89](http://www.paddyscorner.com) . 9am-2am. Perfect little pub in the Croix-Rousse area, off the beatentrack. Live music sessions every Thursday, Pub Quiz on Tuesdays. edit

Johnny Walsh's, 56 rue St Georges (M: Vieux Lyon), ☎ +33 4 78 42 98 76, [90](http://www.johnnywalshs.com) . Tue-Thu 7PM-2AM, Fri-Sun 7PM-3AM. Nice, authentic Irish pubwith good music and some live performances. edit

Wallace, 2 rue Octavio Mey, 69005 Lyon (B: C3-Gare St Paul), ☎ +33 4 72 00 23 91, [91](http://www.wallacebarlyon.com) . Mon-Sun 11AM-3AM. Comfortable beer and whisky bar with anice terrace, live sports, pub quiz on Thursdays. edit

St James's Pub, 19 rue St Jean (M: Vieux Lyon), ☎ +33 4 78 37 36 70. Irish pub. edit

The Smoking Dog, 16 rue Lainerie (B: C3-Gare St Paul), ☎ +33 9 64 06 68 90. English pub. Pubquiz on Tuesdays. Air conditioning. edit

Live music

Le Bec de Jazz, 19 rue Burdeau, 69001 Lyon (M: Hôtel de Ville / Croix Paquet), ☎ +33 6 81 24 3783. Wed-Sat 10PM-5AM. Nice jazz club, with live jazz and a great atmosphere. edit

Le Phoebus, 22 rue Pouteau, 69001 Lyon (M: Hôtel de Ville / Croix Paquet), ☎ +33 6 84 62 52 69.Tue-Wed 6PM-2AM, Thu 6PM-3AM, Fri-Sat 12PM-3AM. Pub with nice live music (African, reggae). edit

Others

The Beers, 3 place St Paul, 69005 Lyon (B: C3-Gare St Paul), ☎ +33 4 72 00 23 60. Nice little barwith a large selection of beers. Very pleasant terrace. edit

L'Abreuvoir, 18 rue Ste Catherine, 69001 Lyon (M: Hôtel de Ville), ☎ +33 4 78 30 17 90. Mon-Sun5PM-1AM. There you can join some crazy French listening to crazy French music. Definitely anexperience, though not everyone's cup of tea. edit

El Loco Latino, 32, rue Pasteur, next to the Guillotière metro station. A small, but lively Latin bar,open daily until 1AM.

L'Amsterdam, 21 Quai Romain Rolland, nice dutch pub.

Le Perroquet Bourré (The Drunk Parrot), 18 Rue Saint Catherine. Cheap rum, the inside isdecorated as a pirate ship.Le Fruit Defendu, Rue Chavanne. A great little hole-in-the-wall bar, good for beers and cocktails, anda great place to start the night! Try the Stella with a shot of orange liquor!

Boats

At the quai Albert Augagneur is another centre of Lyon nightlife. Along the Rhone river are several out ofduty riverboats (péniches) that serve as nightclubs or bars.

Sirius, 21 quai Augagneur. Live events almost every day of the week. On weekends, there are twodancefloors with all kinds of music. No dress code! Nice.


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Beaujolais wine: is it really that bad?

The region of Beaujolais, north of Lyon,is famed worldwide for the "Beaujolaisnouveau", released on the 3rd Thursdayof November each year. The averagequality is terrible and due to this, theregion is quite ill-reputed amongstFrench consumers. But there is far moreto Beaujolais than nouveau. Look forthe best winemakers in the ten crus,most notably Juliénas, Fleurie, Morgon,Chénas and Moulin-à-Vent. Their valuefor money is excellent and the bestwines tend to acquire a "Burgundian"taste with age. Winemakers are usuallyvery welcoming and the area is verybeautiful.

Q-Boat, 21 Quai Augagneur. Another boat, here the hype crowd will feel at home.

Marquise [92] (http://www.marquise.net) , Quai Augagneur. Here you get nice alternative hip-hop,retro soul, etc. Sometimes theatre performances.

Wine bars

Lyon is certainly a great starting point to explore the Frenchvineyards: Beaujolais, Burgundy, Rhône Valley and the lessknown Jura, Savoie and Bugey are all within two hours drive.It is therefore unsurprising to see an increasing number ofwine bars in Lyon. Here are a few addresses.

La Cave des Voyageurs, 7 place St Paul, 69005 Lyon(B: C3-Gare St Paul / M: Hôtel de Ville/Vieux Lyon),☎ +33 4 78 28 92 28([email protected]), [93](http://lacavedesvoyageurs.free.fr) . Tue-Sat 6PM-1AM.Opened over 20 years ago by "Jeannot", the picturesqueand loud-mouthed owner of the other bar next door, thissmall and friendly wine bar has built a wide andinteresting selection of several hundred wines over theyears. Of course the locals are well represented(Beaujolais, Burgundy, Rhône valley) but the list alsokeeps expanding geographically. Also serves somequality food: ham, sausages, cheese. Wine by the glassfrom €3. edit

Goudyvins, 20 rue du Bellecordière, 69002 Lyon (M:Bellecour). A few steps away from the busy Place Bellecour, a new friendly place where you canenjoy both local and foreign wines with prices starting at €5-7 for a glass of either "blanc", "rosé", or"rouge". The selection is actually quite wide so ask for recommendations, the owner is always helpfuland will help you choose your little treat following your tastes. In summer, you definitely need to belucky to find a spot on the terrace. * Georges Five, 32 rue du Boeuf, 69005 Lyon (M: Vieux Lyon), ☎+33 4 72 40 23 30, [94] (http://www.georgesfive.com) . Tue-Sat 7PM-1AM. This place was opened bythe owner of the wine shop Antic Wine. It has therefore a very wide selection of wines (2,800references), ranging from small local producers to the most famous and sought-after names. Alsotop-quality food: ham, cheese, etc. Be careful: the place is small, always packed and hosts numerousprivate events, so if you haven't made your reservation a couple of weeks in advance, save yourselfthe pain of trying your luck. Wine by the glass from €3, bottles €18-€3,000. edit Wine by the glass from€3, bottles €18-€3,000. edit

Vercoquin. See "Buy". edit

It is generally not difficult to find a hotel room in Lyon, except for the Fête des Lumières and during someimportant professional trade shows like SIRHA (food, hotels and restaurants) and POLLUTEC (environmenttechnology), when every last room in and around Lyon is booked. The dates of those events can be found onthe exhibition centre's website [95] (http://www.eurexpo.com) .

Budget


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Hotel Vaubecour, 28 rue Vaubecour (2nd arrondissement), ☎ +33 4 78 37 44 91, [96](http://www.cybevasion.com/hotels/france/hotel_vaubecour_lyon_4163.html) . A very simple, butclean and friendly hotel with large rooms and two beds, TV, and washstand. Near Perrache trainstation and close to just about everything. Under €30. edit

Auberge de Jeunesse de Vieux Lyon (youth hostel). Belongs to YHA (international youth hostelsassociation). Bunk bed in a dorm, plus breakfast for €21 (plus fee, if not member of YHA). Take themetro to Vieux Lyon station then the funicular to Place des Minimes (otherwise a serious hike up asteep hill). Excellent views over city. Tiny kitchen, extremely limited rooms for couples/families.Keeps with the Catholic 1900s tradition of no gender-mixed rooms. No telephone bookings. edit

Hotel Les Carres Pegase, 31 Rue Chevreul, +33 4 72 72 08 36. Totally worn down business appart-hotel, in serious need of modernisation - but apart from that with clean sheets and friendly service.Small duplex for four people as low as €60 through hostelbookers. But be aware that you get what youpay for. The views for 7th floor is good.

Mid-range

Citadines Part-Dieu Lyon, 91-95, rue Moncey, ☎ +04 78 14 90 00 ([email protected], fax:+04 78 60 50 74), [97] (http://www.citadines.com/france/lyon/part_dieu.html) . The residence is closeto the Part-Dieu business and institutions areas. Housing 98 flats over 7 floors, varying from studios toone-bedrooms; Each apartment has a bathroom with a hairdryer, a separate kitchen area, TV withsatellite channels and a direct-line phone. Daily rates starts from €170. edit

Hotel Victoria, 3, rue Delandine, Lyon 69002 (Behind Perrache Station opposite Brasserie George),☎ +33 4 78 37 57 61 ([email protected], fax: +33 4 78 42 91 07), [98](http://hotelvictorialyon.com/) . This place is unpretentious and satisfactory. Reasonable valueaccommodation in a handy location with a friendly welcome. €45-55. edit

Hotel Saint Paul, 6 rue Lainerie, 69005 Lyon (B: C3/Gare St Paul), ☎ +33 4 78 28 13 29, [99](http://www.hotelstpaul.fr) . Very conveniently located in Vieux Lyon, this 2-star hotel offers rathersmall rooms but very good service and cleanliness. Good value for money. The street can be quitenoisy, so ask for a room on the courtyard side or bring your earplugs. Double rooms €66/74/80. edit

NH Lyon Aéroport, BP 202. 69125 Lyon-Saint Exupéry Aéroport. Lyon, ☎ +33 4 72 23 05 50, [100](http://www.nh-hotels.com/nh/en/hotels/france/lyon/nh-lyon-aeroport.html) . A short distance fromthe airport. 245 modern rooms and Nhube restaurant, meeting rooms, a spa and much more. Roomsfrom €109. edit

LaTour-Lyon, 21 rue Juiverie (M: Vieux Lyon), ☎ +33 6 62 50 84 38 ([email protected]), [101](http://www.ltour-lyon.com) . An accommodation in a renaissance tower in Vieux-Lyon. A delightfulduplex and unique setting with a panoramic view through 17 windows and luxurious amenities.€80-110. edit

Le Petit Tramassac, 2 petite rue tramassac (M: Vieux Lyon), ☎ +33 6 64 28 71 34([email protected]), [102] (http://''www.lepetittramassac.com'') . If your plan to stay in Lyonfor leisure or work, for 1 night or more, Le Petit Tramassac offers you to live in a comfortable andfully equiped apartement of 44 sqm in the heart of the Old Lyon. €80-110. edit

Splurge

Hotel Sofitel Lyon Bellecour, 20, quai Gailleton (2nd arrondissement), ☎ +33 4 72 41 20 20, [103](http://www.accorhotels.com/accorhotels/fichehotel/gb/sof/0553/fiche_hotel.shtml) . Luxury hotelclose to the famous Place Bellecour. Large number of meeting rooms for conventions.


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Collège Hôtel, 5 place St Paul, 69005 Lyon (B: C3-Gare St Paul / M:Vieux Lyon/Hôtel de Ville), ☎+33 4 72 10 05 05 ([email protected]), [104] (http://www.college-hotel.com) . Convenientlylocated in the Vieux Lyon area, this 3-star hotel is decorated in the manner of an early 20th centuryschool. Rooms €116 to €146 (tax inclusive), breakfast €12, parking €15. edit

Cour des Loges, 2-8 rue du Boeuf, 69005 Lyon (M: Vieux Lyon), ☎ +33 4 72 77 44 44([email protected]), [105] (http://www.courdesloges.com) . Located in an exceptional14th-century building in the heart of the old town. Rooms €249 to €620, breakfast €25. edit

Main Post Office, 10 place Antonin Poncet, 69002 Lyon (M: Bellecour), ☎ +33 4 72 40 65 22, [106](http://www.laposte.fr) . Mon-Fri 9AM-7PM, Thu open until 8PM, Sat 9AM-12:30PM. edit

Terreaux Post Office, 3 rue du Président Edouard Herriot (M: Hôtel de Ville), ☎ +33 4 72 00 58 34,[107] (http://www.laposte.fr) . Mon-Fri 10AM-7PM, Sat 10AM-5PM. edit

There are 42 other post offices distributed throughout all neighbourhoods of Lyon.

Most internet cafés and call shops are in the Guillotière neighbourhood (M: Guillotière) and behind Placedes Terreaux (Rue Ste Catherine, Rue Romarin, M: Hôtel de Ville), because of the large population ofimmigrants living there.

To make a telephone call from abroad, dial the international access code appropriate to your location,followed by the IDD access code for France 33, followed by the regional code (ignoring the 0 prefix)followed by the local number.

To call abroad from France, dial the international access code 00, followed by the international destinationIDD country code, followed by the regional code (ignoring the 0 prefix) followed by the local number.

The regional (city) code for Lyon is 04. A telephone number in Lyon looks like this; (04) XX XX XX XX. Ininternational format it looks like this;+33 4 XX XX XX XX.

To dial a Lyon number from a different country use your local international access code (such as 00),followed by 33 4 XX XX XX XX.

To dial a Lyon number from within France use 04 XX XX XX XX.

When dialling from a mobile (cellphone) phone it may be easier to always just dial +33 4 XX XX XXXX, whether inside France or elsewhere at the time, however you must always drop the leading 0 fromthe 04 city code.

Real security problems in the Lyon center are rare, but the usual advice applies.

Rue Ste Catherine, behind Place des Terreaux, is locally famous for its bars; on weekend nights there are alot of drunk people on the street, who might be violent. The police keep a close watch but it is probablybetter to avoid the area if you are on your own, especially after 3AM when the bars are closed. Similarproblems may be encountered in Vieux Lyon.

In populated places such as Rue de la République or outside Part-Dieu station, you may come across peopleadvertising for charities; they can be recognised by their specific, coloured clothing. They will not ask youfor money but rather give you information documents which encourage you to donate. Homeless people sell


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Go skiing from Lyon.

In winter, the nearest ski resorts are lessthan two hours away. Several travelagencies sell day "packages" (journeyby coach and ski pass); the coachesdepart from Lyon between 6 and 7AMand come back around 8PM. This is aconvenient and inexpensive way to goskiing; these one-day trips cost €30-40,excluding equipment hire and food. Thisis about the regular price of the ski passalone! [108] (http://www.skimania.com), [109] (http://www.sldvoyages.com) ,[110] (http://www.magicevasion.com) .

newspapers such as Macadam or Sans-abri which help them making some money without begging; theyshould have an ID card issued by the editors. But there are also people trying to con you and get money forsome imaginary charity, sometimes by selling postcards or other items. Never give money directly tosomeone on the street who claims to be working for charity and does not have official documents, or if thedocuments look doubtful.

Emergency numbers

Police ☎ 17

Fire brigade ☎ 18

Medical emergency ☎ 15.

The European emergency number ☎ 112 should be used on mobile phones.

Consulates

Greece, 7 Rue Barreme, ☎ +33 478-894-669 (fax: +33 478-933-717). edit

The car museum of Rochetaillée has a very nicecollection of modern and old cars. The main attractionof the museum is Adolf Hitler's armored car. ChâteauRochetaillée, 69270 Rochetaillée-sur-Saône, ☎ +33 478 22 18 80, (Fax +33 4 78 22 69 60). Open 9AM-7PMdaily (EXCEPT Monday) in July and August,9AM-6PM the rest of the year. Closed on Christmas andNew Year. Fees: Adults €5, free for children under 18.

Perouges is a small village 30 min outside of Lyon. Itsbuildings all date to the middle ages and it's a popularweekend destination for people who live in Lyon.

The bird park of Villars-les-Dombes.

Vienne and its international jazz festival.

The Swiss border and the city of Geneva are just over 2hr away by train.

Annecy, the "Venice of Savoie" with its beautiful lake and canals, is about 2 hr away and makes a nicedaytrip.

Le-Puy-en-Velay, one of the four starting points for pilgrimages to Santiago.

Saint-Etienne, a large industrial hub.

This is a guide article. It has a variety of good, qualityinformation including hotels, restaurants, attractions, arrival


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and departure info. Plunge forward and help us make it a star!

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