Best Places to Eat

¨Mala Kuhinja (p77)

¨Hindin Han (p82)

¨Manolo (p77)

¨Babilon (p83)

¨ Park Prinčeva (p77)

Best Places to Stay

¨Muslibegović House (p82)

¨ Isabegov Hamam Hotel (p76)

¨Ovo Malo Duše (p76)

¨Hostel Balkanarama (p82)

When to Go

Apr–Jun Beat the heat in Hercego-vina; blooming flowers in Bosnia.

Jul–Aug Gets sweaty and accommodation fills, but festivals keep things lively.

Mid-Jan– mid-Mar Skiing gets cheaper after the New Year holidays.

Bosnia & HercegovinaWhy Go?This craggily beautiful land retains some lingering scars from the heartbreaking civil war in the 1990s. But today visitors will more likely remember Bosnia and Hercegovina (BiH) for its deep, unassuming human warmth and for the intriguing East-meets-West atmosphere born of fascinating-ly blended Ottoman and Austro-Hungarian histories.

Major drawcards are the reincarnated antique centres of Sarajevo and Mostar, where rebuilt historical buildings counterpoint fashionable bars and wi-fi–equipped cafes. Captivating Sarajevo is an architectural gem, with countless minarets amid the tile-roofed houses that rise steeply up its river flanks. Mostar is world famous for its extraordinary arc of 16th-century stone bridge, photogenically flanked by cute mill-house restaurants. The town is set at the heart of Herce-govina’s sun-baked wine country, with waterfalls, a riverside sufi-house and an Ottoman fortress all nearby.

Includes ¨ Sarajevo . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72Mostar . . . . . . . . . . . . . .79

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1 Stari Most (p79) Gawping as young men throw themselves off Mostar’s magnificently rebuilt stone arc.

2 Baščaršija (p72) Padding around Old Sarajevo’s fascinating turkic era alleyways on soft flagstones that feel like chilled butter underfoot.

3 Tunnel Museum (p76) Discovering more about the hopes and horrors of the 1990s civil war at this intensely moving museum.

4 Mostar’s Hinterland (p83) Making a satisfyingly varied day trip from Mostar to Kravice Waterfalls and other gems of Hercegovina.

5 Mountain Escapes (p78) Heading for resorts like Jahorina and Bjelašnica in the hills around Sarajevo to ski in winter or hike in the summer sunshine.

Bosnia & Hercegovina Highlights