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February 17, 2014

Birds of Paradise in the Arfak Mountains (How

To Get There Guide)

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Just getting to the Arfak Mountains can be its own adventure. From the very first moment of decidingto go, the difficulty of executing of such a trip presents itself. I could talk about all of the red tape

around going to the province of West Papua in the first place, but Id rather focus on how to see birds

of paradise once youve landed there. The first thing you need is an official surat jalan or travelpermit.

Supposedly you can go to most major cities in Papua without one of these. Flying into provincial

capital cities such as Jayapura or Manokwari (the place I landed and the city where youll need to be to

get to Arfak) are perfectly ok. Ive heard that other major cities, like Sorong and Fak fak, are also placeswhere surat jalans arent necessary. However, if you want to take even a single step outside of these

cities, youll need a surat jalan.

You can touch down anywhere in West Papua, but ultimately youll need to get a flight to Manokwari.Once there, youll need to hail down an ojek, one of these motorcycle taxis, and have them take you to

the kantor polisi or police station. Youll recognize the ojeks by their bright yellow helmets. There areseveral police stations around Manokwari since this city, like the entire region of West Papua, is heavilypacked with police and soldiers due to past liberation/resistance conflict. Youll want the ojek to bring

you specifically to the one on Jalan Bhayangkhara. Its open between the hours of 9am-5pm.

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Have an ojek take you to the police station.

The ojek brought me to another police station before getting to the right one, so youll need to specifyfrom the beginning and have them get directions from passersby if they arent sure how to get there.Most ojeks should know though.

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This is police station where you will get your surat jalan. Its the only place to get one in town.

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(http://takingdowntongues.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/a3.jpg)That police officer statue scared the crap out of me. It looks way too real! Let it be one of your

confirmation landmarks.

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When I entered the station, I was sent right away to the regional administrator that handles this. Theregenerally isnt any waiting time since few travels ever make there way to the region. The administrator

will question you and then tell you not to engage in any politically oriented for a few minutes beforeworking on your permit. Aware that there was a linguistics conference and workshop held in

Manokwari that week, his questions to me mainly aimed to expose a research agenda in Arfak. Areyou doing RESEARCH on the Arfak language? Are you doing RESEARCH on the birds of paradise? I

let him know that I wasnt conducting any research in Arfak and right away he printed, signed,

stamped my letter, and I was out. The whole process takes about 20 minutes tops.

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(http://takingdowntongues.files.wordpress.com/2013/12/image_119.jpg)This is the surat jalan or travel letter that youll need before heading to Arfak.

After getting my letter, I had the ojek take me over to Terminal Wosi where Id ask around about

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After getting my letter, I had the ojek take me over to Terminal Wosi where Id ask around aboutpublic transportation to Arfak. Most people waiting for the taxis there had no idea and directed me tothe chartered vehicles. I talked to the drivers of the chartered vehicles and after getting past their

solicitations, I confirmed that there were public vehicles that make the trip to Arfak. Supposedly, allpublic vehicles usually leave in the early morning, so showed up the next around a quarter to 7am.

I entered Terminal Wosi and went to the open bus counter to see if this was where I would get

transportation to Arfak. I told them that I was heading to Syiobri, small village on the road toMokwam, where I would meet Zeth Wonggor, a really well-known guide for birds of paradise. Zeth isa legend in Manokwari. Almost everyone to whom I mentioned his name had heard of him. Most

people had never actually met him, but were very familiar with his celebrity reputation as a first-classArfak guide. I was initially directed to buy a bus ticket. Then it came to the attention of one the peopleat the counter that the bus wasnt going to Syiobri, so they refunded my money and sent me over tothe taxis. One taxi driver said he was going to Syobri, but it turned out he would only make the trip to

Warmare where I would have to get a get a ranger, a huge four-wheel driver pick-up truck, to Syobri. Ifound out that taxis never make the trip to Arfak, because they cant function on the terrain. Onlyrangers can take you to remote areas in the mountains.

By the time we arrived in Warmare, all public rangers where gone and only chartered vehicles whereleft. I wasnt willing to pay 1 million rupiah (about $86 US dollars) so I had the taxi driver take meback to Manokwari. That taxi ride, since I was the sole passenger on the way over to Warmare cost was

expensive. I paid 300,000 rupiah ($26) and I lost a day. But it wasnt a complete loss. On the way backto Manokwari, we picked a few passengers, one of which was Zeth Wonggors brother. He told me thathe was headed to Syiobri the next day and that hed help me get there. He said to be at the Pasar

Wosi, Wosi Market, at 3:30am if I wanted to get a public ranger to Arfak.

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(http://takingdowntongues.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/a4.jpg)This is Terminal Wosi which is filled with taxis, the vehicles that you see in the image above. This is

NOT the place for public transportation to Arfak.

Since there were no ojeks at 3 in the morning, I paid a friend to bring me to Pasar Wosi. I sat there inthe dark and waited for a half hour with not even the remotest sight of life beside a random, wandering

pig that passed us by when we got there. Zeths brother who was supposed to meet me was no whereto be found.

I went home for a while and returned around 7am. The city was waking up as school kids in uniformwere walking and riding off to school. Shops, gasoline stalls, and warung sidewalk cafs began to open.I enter a warung and had some breakfast. After breakfast, I met Zeths brother and we stood aroundwaiting for the rangers.

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(http://takingdowntongues.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/a5.jpg)This is the area where youll wait for public rangers headed to Arfak. Its a few feet beyond the

Pasar Wosi within that yellow-gated property there.

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(http://takingdowntongues.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/b1.jpg)This is how the Rangers look. Most of the trucks in the area will be for charter, but a few will be public.

Youll have to ask around a bit to confirm where they are, but this is the general area.

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The public Rangers have to come through this area for the days gas, so you should except to see themat some point in the early morning.

After the rangers finally arrived, we waited for them to take off. We waitedand waitedand

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After the rangers finally arrived, we waited for them to take off. We waitedand waitedandwaitedand waited some more, until I was so excruciatingly bored that I decided to take a walk

through the Pasar Wosi.

(http://takingdowntongues.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/b3.jpg)Waiting for the public Rangers to head out.

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(http://takingdowntongues.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/b4.jpg)Again, these are taxis. You do NOT want to take this form of transportation as it is IMPOSSIBLE

for these vehicles to make it up the mountains.

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(http://takingdowntongues.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/b5.jpg)To the right side there, you have the area where the drivers for chartered vehicle wait for customers.

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(http://takingdowntongues.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/c1.jpg)Hanging out with the chartered drivers.

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(http://takingdowntongues.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/c2.jpg)Visit Pasar Wosi Wosi Market while you wait (because you might be there for hours!).

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Hanging out at the Pasar.

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(http://takingdowntongues.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/c4.jpg)Grab some street lunch before heading out on your journey.

After 4 hours of waiting around, we were finally on the road to Arfak. Normally you can expect to pay

100,000 rupiah ($8.60), but since there were fewer than the normal amount of passengersthey usuallyrequire 8 passengers since the driver needs to make at least 800,000 rupiah one waywe paid rp150,000 ($13). Since Zeths brother was to show me the way to Syiobri, I paid his way as well.

The trip takes about 1 -2 hours. Its about an hour to Arfak from Manokwari and then 30-45 minutesfrom the foot of the mountain to Syiobri. While driving to Arfak, youre immediately immersed in thenatural wonderland of New Guinea, glimpses of hidden waterfalls and forest covered mountains,

lightly blanketed with misty clouds.

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(http://takingdowntongues.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/c5.jpg)Finally, around midday, we headed out for Arfak.

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(http://takingdowntongues.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/image_32.jpg)Should we take the bridge across the river?

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(http://takingdowntongues.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/image_42.jpg)Nope! The bridge isnt completed yet.

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(http://takingdowntongues.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/image_52.jpg)Along the winding roads of Arfak.

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(http://takingdowntongues.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/image_53.jpg)When you get to Syiobri, youll pass this church on the path toward Zeth Wonggors home.

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(http://takingdowntongues.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/image_33.jpg)This is Zeth Wonggors house.

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Zeth Wonggor is a highly experienced bird-watching guide. Information for contacting Zeth is below.

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(http://takingdowntongues.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/img_5328.jpg)Once youve met Zeth, you can finally settle in to Syiobri. YOUVE MADE IT!

Although I lost the day before and then spent most of that day waiting around, the wait was well worthit. Just the awareness of being in Arfak, being in the highlands of New Guinea is an overwhelminglyjoyful experience. The mystical mountains and lively and life full green forests take your breath awayand then give it back again as a pure, cool, crisp air and spirit that only these remote, ancient forests

could provide.

Making it to Arfak was a milestone in my travel life experience. At this point, Id crossed over toanother level of travel. I wouldnt say that Im a pro, but this was well-beyond my book a hostel athostel.com for Venice days. To clarify, you do not have to be a pro traveler to make this trip. Withsome competence in Indonesian, a week or two getting to understand how the region works (becauseIndonesia is vast and each region is very different!), and a bit of an Im unstoppable attitude, you canmake your own exploratory voyage into those remote and ancient lands that are home to the worldsmost magnificent wildlife treasures.

Read More About My Arfak Expereriences @ Seeing Birds of Paradise in the Arfak Mountains Part II

Arfak Adventure Language Phrasebook @ takingdowntongues.com/arfakadventurephrasebook

Zeth Wonggor video clip @ takingdowntongues.youtube

View the Youtube Episode @ Takingdowntongues.youtube

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Explore More @ http://www.flickr.com/photos/117897226@N08/sets/72157641288782735/(http://www.flickr.com/photos/117897226@N08/sets/72157641288782735/)

Approximate Cost Breakdown of Trip to Arfak

(Indonesian Rupiah to US Dollar @ rp11,200 1USD)

Accommodation: rp 100, 000 ($8.50) Per Day

Activities: rp 250,000 ($23.50) Half Day; rp 500,000 ($47.00) Full Day

Food: Bring Your Own

Souvenirs: rp 40,000 ($3.75) Hatam Bow and Arrow; rp 80,000 ($7.50) Hatam Language Bible

Transportation (One-Way) : rp 100,000 ($8.50) Public Rangers; rp 1,000,000 1,500,000 ($94 141) Chartered Rangers

***Extra Planning Notes: For Chartered Transportation, one driver you may contact ahead of time isAco at 081248566111.

(http://takingdowntongues.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/image_17.jpg)Zeth Wonggor is ahighly experienced bird-watching guide. He has had knowledge of the birds of the area since

childhood. He has been in the bird-watching business formally for over 20 years. Zeth has worked withworld-class naturalists such as Sir David Attenborough as well as internationally renown wildlifephotographer and Harvard rain forest biologist Tim Laman. He has been featured in a number ofwildlife documentaries on BBC and German TV programming. Through his work in ecotourism, Zethis played an indispensable role in the bio-diversity conservation activities in the Vogelkop MountainRain Forest Ecoregion and in Syioubri community building efforts. He has guided tourists from all overthe world (including USA, France, Germany, China, Japan, India, Korea, the Netherlands, UK, andmany more). If you wish to contact Zeth, his mobile phone number is 085254053754. Phone service is

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scarce in Syiobri so it is best to send a text and expect a response within a day or two. You can also godirectly to Syiobri and reach him there in person. For more information, watch Zeth Wonggorsvideo clip or see other web resources.

Other Websites That Mention Zeth:

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Arfak Adventure Phrase Book

Pegunungan Arfak the Arfak Mountains

Harga berapa? How much does it cost?

Pulang-pergi Round trip

Satu arah One way

[...]

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Arfak Mountains Extras Photo Gallery

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Posted by DeAndr Espree-Conaway in People, Places, & CultureTagged: Arfak, Biodiversity, Birds of Paradise, Birdwatching, Camping, Climbing, Exotic Wildlife,Hiking, Indonesia, Mountains, Nature, New Guinea, Oceania, Papua, Rainforests, South Pacific,Trekking, Tropics, West Papua, Wildlife

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