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VOLUME82NUMBER03 March 2020 BEVERAGE JOURNAL 1
Maryland l Washington, DC
F E AT U R E S
10 ARGENTINA’S HIGHER GROUND Newly defined subregions in the high-elevation Uco Valley are producing some of the country’s most exciting wines
18 IRISH WHISKEY’S CRAFT BOOM No other whiskey category has exploded quite like Irish has this century
26 BALANCING THE BACK BAR Making difficult inventory decisions in an era of rapid-fire releases
D E PA R T M E N T S
02 PUB PAGE DISCUS Awarded $511,386 to Promote American Spirits Exports
04 NEW PRODUCTS & PROMOTIONS
08 BRAND PROFILE: LION & DOVE WINES Just in Time for Passover
16 BRAND PROFILE: BAREFOOT JUMPS INTO HARD SELTZER First Wine-based Seltzer to Go Nationwide
30 BRAND PROFILE: HARD SELTZER’S NEW HOT SPOT High Noon Stakes its Claim as a Better Bubbly
32 BAR TALK Botanical Inspiration
34 TOWN CENTER MARKET'S JIMMY SPIROPOULOS: Fighting to Protect the Independent Store Owner
36 MARKET SHOTS Promotions, Happenings & News From the Local Markets
40 MADE IN MARYLAND News and Happenings in and Around Maryland's Breweries, Distilleries and Wineries
MARCH 2020
ON THE COVER: Photo courtesy of
Domaine Bousquet
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BEVERAGE JOURNAL, INC.
President / Publisher Stephen [email protected]
Board of Directors Lee W. MurrayThomas W. Murray
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EDITORIAL
Senior Editor Kristen [email protected]
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DISCUS AWARDED $511,386 TO PROMOTE AMERICAN SPIRITS EXPORTS
The Distilled Spirits Council of the United States (DISCUS) recently an-nounced it was granted $511,386 through its partnership with the U.S. Department of Agriculture’s Market Access Program (MAP) to promote American spirits exports in 2020, an increase of nearly 15 percent over 2019 funding levels.
“This continued increase in USDA funding is a clear recognition of the ef-fectiveness of DISCUS’ export promotion program in boosting sales of American spirits abroad,” said Christine LoCascio, DISCUS chief of public policy. “USDA’s in-vestment in these programs is paying off. In 2018 alone, DISCUS’ MAP activities re-sulted in $1.05 million in new exports for craft distillers across the United States.”
Since 2006, DISCUS has conducted spirits promotions in cooperation with USDA in 18 foreign markets. In 2019, DIS-CUS conducted MAP trade promotions in Australia, Germany, Mexico and South Africa. This collaboration has contributed to a huge increase in global U.S. spirits exports, rising from $873 million in 2006 to $1.8 billion in 2018.
Catoctin Creek Distilling Company General Manager Scott Harris, who has participated in numerous DISCUS MAP promotions, stated, “Craft distillers can benefit greatly by participating in these international promotions. DISCUS’ MAP events were critical in helping me to break into new markets and make valu-able business connections.”
Harris added, “These export promo-tions have become even more impor-tant in light of the retaliatory tariffs on American Whiskey. These events allow U.S. distillers to showcase our products
and keep American spirits top of mind in these foreign markets.”
Through the MAP program, DISCUS seeks to facilitate the increase of small U.S. distiller exports by educating the hospitality industry, adult consumers and media in key international markets on the taste, heritage and style of American distilled spirits.
DISCUS’ promotions focus on the range of American spirits, but with a particular focus on the unique qualities of American Whiskeys, including Bour-bon, Tennessee Whiskey, American Rye Whiskey and American Single Malt, which account for the vast majority of U.S. spirits exports worldwide.
Earlier this year DISCUS was granted $1,215,000 through the USDA's Agricul-tural Trade Program (ATP), which was set up specifically to assist those agricultural groups that are being adversely impacted by retaliatory tariffs.
Since retaliatory tariffs on U.S. spirits were implemented in the second half of 2018, exports to the European Union (EU), Canada, Mexico, Turkey and China worth an estimated $732 million have faced retaliatory tariffs.
Between January-October 2019, American Whiskey exports to the EU are down nearly 28 percent compared to the same period in 2018. Similarly, global American Whiskey exports are down more than 18 percent through September 2019 as compared to the same period in 2018.
To date, DISCUS has used ATP funds to implement media campaigns in Mexico, Canada and the EU, and conduct trade promotions in the United Kingdom. n
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NEW PRODUCTS
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NEW PRODUCTS
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1. GERARD BERTRAND ‘CÔTE DES ROSES’ The custom bottles Gérard Betrand uses for his “Côte des Roses” Rosé and Chardonnay proved so popular that he is adding Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir to the line. Each Languedoc wine features a base molded to resemble a rose, and each expression will now be available in both 750ml and 375ml, plus magnum for the Grenache-Syrah-Cinsault rosé. The rose-shaped base of the bottles is echoed in color-coded neck logos.
2. COCKSPUR VSOR RUMCockspur Rum—founded in Barbados in 1884—has unveiled a redesign for its rums, which are made with coral-filtered water and aged beach-side amid ocean breezes.The new Cockspur look retains the signature rooster graphic but now has white block lettering for the brand and iteration. The redesign rolls out initially with Cockspur flagship VSOR Rum (80 proof ) and will continue with the full line.
3. MEZZACORONA ‘DINOTTE’RED BLENDNew from leading Italian producer Mezzacorona, DiNotte is an estate-bottled red blend made from grapes grown on the hillsides of the Dolomite Mountains in Italy. The aromatic richness of the Teroldego and Marzemino grapes combine with the elegance of Merlot. The grapes are rich, berry-like and juicy, but also perfumed with a mountain floral character. DiNotte translates to “At Night.”
SRP: $16.99/750ml $9.99/375ml $32.99/1.5L Rosé SRP: $31.99 SRP: $10.99 gerard-bertrand.com/en cockspur.com mezzacorona.com
4. JACK DANIEL’S TENNESSEE FIRE A package update for Jack Daniel’s Tennessee Fire has been rolling out for 2020. The new look is intended to be more premium, fit better with the family of brands, and improve visibility in bars and restaurants. Crafted with Jack Daniel’s Old No. 7 Tennessee Whiskey and naturally infused with a proprietary cinnamon liqueur, Jack Fire launched globally in 2016 and has since become the #4 selling flavored whiskey in the world. 70 proof.
5. RUMCHATA LIMÓN RumChata has combined its well-known real dairy cream and Caribbean rum base with a touch of refreshing lemon to create RumChata Limón. Sweet, smooth, and creamy with a fresh lemon finish, RumChata Limón can be enjoyed on the rocks, as a light and flavorful creamer in hot or cold co£ ee, or blended with other flavored spirits. The bright yellow version of the iconic RumChata bottle comes complete with the familiar gold cap. 28 proof.
6. FRE IN CANSFre, America’s leading alcohol-removed wine brand, has introduced the first single-serving alcohol-removed wines. Fre Sparkling Rosé and Sparkling Brut cans will join the brand’s existing portfolio that comprises 80 percent of the alcohol-removed wine segment with eight 750ml varietals. The new o£ erings aim to give existing customers more flexibility and attract alcohol-abstaining and sober-curious consumers.
SRP: $24.99 SRP: $19.99 SRP: $11/four-pack 250ml cans jackdaniels.com rumchata.com frewines.com
6 BEVERAGE JOURNAL March 2020 www.BeverageJournalInc.com
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NEW PRODUCTSNEW PRODUCTS
7. RIUNITE SANGRIA IN CANSRiunite, one of America’s favorite Italian wine brands for over six decades, will be launching its first canned wine this spring. The booming canned wine sector has seen a four-year compound annual growth rate of approximately 91%, according to Nielsen; and 33% of millennials are consuming wine in cans. The 250ml cans of Riunite Sangria, in both red and white, are targeting LDA drinkers with active social calendars.
8. WHEEL HORSE RYE WHISKEYLatitude Beverage, the company behind 90+ Cellars, has launched Wheel Horse Rye. The whiskey was produced at O.Z. Tyler, the site of one of the state’s original permitted distilleries. Wheel Horse is the first aged rye to come out of O.Z. Tyler since its reopening in 2016. Two to three years in new, charred American Oak barrels impart a rich profile with notes of baking spices, to� ee, and barrel-mellowed rye spice. 101 proof.
9. LALUCA PROSECCO LaLuca Prosecco DOC Treviso gets a fresh new look, with the same authentic Prosecco. LaLuca is a proprietary label created by Opici Wines honoring the fifth generation of the Opici family. The wine is crafted near the Valdobbiadene DOCG region, on the sloping hills just north of Treviso, known for producing superior quality Glera. Notes of orchard fruits, pear, and lemon carry through in a rich, creamy, o� -dry style.
SRP: $ $9.99/four-pack of 250ml cans SRP: $27.99 SRP: $13.99 riunite.com wheelhorsewhiskey.com opiciwines.com
10. CORSAIR SPIRITSNashville, Tennessee-based Corsair Distillery, one of America’s most decorated and influential craft producers, has refreshed its entire line of 100% housemade (never sourced) spirits, led by core bottlings Triple Smoke Single Malt (SRP $47.99; named Artisan Whiskey of the Year by Whisky Advocate in 2013); Dark Rye ($44.99); and American Gin ($29.99) and Barreled Gin ($34.99; made using vapor basket botanical extraction). The new look features the familiar trio of black-and-white figures, now with bold color accents.
11. TRULY LEMONADETruly Hard Seltzer has launched Truly Lemonade Hard Seltzer, with real lemon juice delivering the crisp, clean taste of hard seltzer and bolder lemonade flavor. Four styles will be available in a variety pack of 12oz cans: Original Lemonade, Black Cherry Lemonade, Mango Lemonade, and Strawberry Lemonade. Like the rest of the Truly Hard Seltzer line, selling points for Truly Lemonade include low sugar (1 gram) and calories (100).
12. NYETIMBER ‘1086’ PRESTIGE CUVÉESNyetimber, one of England’s top sparkling wine producers, is releasing a duo of sparklers said to be the “first ever” prestige cuvées from the UK. Both inaugural “1086” cuvées are made in West Sussex using classic Champagne grapes and methods (1086 is a nod to the first written record of Nyetimber). The 2010 1086 shows a caramelized character from extended aging. The 2010 Rosé 1086 is 75% Pinot Noir, 25% Chardonnay.
SRP: $29.99-$47.99 SRP: $14.99-$18.99/12-pack 12oz cans (variety pack) SRP: $240 for 1086 / $275 for Rosé 1086 corsairdistillery.com trulyhardseltzer.com nyetimber.com
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Lion & Dove Wines are made from grapes cultivated and grown in renowned growing areas around the world. The Chilean wines, Sauvignon Blanc, Char-donnay, Rosé, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sau-vignon and, of course, Carménère, come from grapes cultivated and grown in the Central Valley and the Valley of Sagrada Familia. The Central Valley is Chile’s ag-ricultural heartland — including the re-nowned Curicó sub-region, 115 miles south of Santiago. In addition to being Chile’s most productive wine region, the Central Valley is known for its range of distinct microclimates and varied terrain and soil types. The Valley of Sagrada Fa-milia is one of the oldest in Chile and is fa-mous for its farming traditions and unique geographic terrain.
The Moscato comes from the re-nowned Puglia region of Italy. Puglian
wine is the product of a diverse land-scape. The warm climate and fertile soil make it easy to grow almost anything. Puglia is surrounded by water on three sides allowing cool breezes off the Medi-terranean to moderate vineyard tempera-tures.
These varying regional characteristics produce unique and expressive wines that are both consistent and approach-able — the way wine should be. Lion & Dove wines are kosher for Passover and mevushal. All Lion & Dove wines are also Certified Vegan and gluten-free. These are wines made to be shared, and en-joyed.
The Lion & Dove collection is DMV Distributing’s first direct import, further-ing their mission of delivering spectacular wines at great value to consumers in the Maryland and D.C. markets. n
DMV Distributing recently added two new wines to their Lion & Dove kosher and vegan wine collection. Lion & Dove Moscato and Rosé have hit the Maryland and DC markets.
LION & DOVE WINESJUST IN TIME FOR PASSOVER
B R A N D P R O F I L E
Certified VeganIn order for a product to be designated certified vegan, it must not contain meat, fish, fowl, animal by-products, eggs or egg products, milk or milk products, honey or honey bee products, insects or products from insects such as silk or dyes, or sugar-filtered with bone char.
The reason not all wines are vegan (or even vegetarian-friendly) has to do with how the wine is clarified during the fining process. Vegan wineries will use more natural filtration processes, vegan-friendly fining agents, or choose not to fine and/or filter their wine.
Kosher for Passover, Mevushal & Gluten-Free
The regulations for a wine to be certified kosher include Sabbath-observing Jewish persons handling and processing the wine, barrels and tanks being designated kosher, and a rabbi or Kashrut-trained supervisor observing the process. Wine that is described as “kosher for Passover” must have been kept free from contact with chametz, examples being grain, bread and dough, meaning that all kosher for Passover wines are also gluten-free. A mevushal wine is one that has been flash-processed and remains kosher for Passover no matter the type of handling they receive, so as to allow the wine to be handled by non-Jewish or non-observant waiters.
e make mountain wines here,” says Sebastián Zuccardi, stating the obvious. He’s standing in front of the solid-stone winery he built two years ago in Uco
Valley’s Altamira district at nearly 4,000 feet above sea level where his estate vineyards practically hug the snow-capped Andes Mountains.
Since joining his family’s Maipu-based wine business, founded by his grandfather in the 1960s, Zuccardi has been convinced that Uco Valley is the future for Argentina, and he has devoted most of his en-ergy and resources to getting as close to the mountains as possible.
“The combination of calcium carbonate-rich, alluvial soils at this elevation is unique to Uco Valley,” he explains. “We can make fresh, mineral-driven, high-energy wines here—totally differ-ent from the fruity, formulaic Malbecs that people associate with Mendoza. Uco is barely two decades old, so we are just now begin-ning to understand our terroir.”
Zuccardi is among a growing group of passionate producers working to classify Uco’s high-elevation terroirs and petition for Geographical Indication (GI) status for the emerging districts that, although young, are responsible for Argentina’s paradigm-shifting wines.
TOO HIGH, TOO COLD, TOO HARSHWhen Nicolás Catena planted his Adrianna Vineyard in Uco’s Gual-tallary district in 1993, most believed he would fail. Lower Uco had some vineyards, but no one had dared cultivate grapes at 5,000 feet above sea level; the risk of frost was extreme, and growers as-sumed grapes couldn’t ripen in the harsh, high-desert landscape.
But Catena was determined to find the coldest place in Mendoza to grow grapes, and the introduction of drip irrigation to the region meant that viticulture at higher sites was finally possible. He set up weather stations throughout the region and discovered that while temperatures were similar to Champagne, the brightness and extra hours of the sunlight could result in the holy grail of winemaking: “Grapes on the edge of ripeness with fully mature tannins, natu-
NEWLY DEFINED SUBREGIONS IN THE HIGH-ELEVATION UCO VALLEY ARE PRODUCING SOME OF THE COUNTRY’S MOST EXCITING WINES
BY KRISTEN BIELER
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ARGENTINA’S HIGHER GROUND
ral acidity and only 13% alcohol,” explains daughter Laura Catena, now in charge of her family's Bodega Catena Zapata.
Around the same time, Dutch entrepre-neur Mijndert Pon saw similar potential in Uco’s higher reaches. But instead of a sin-gle vineyard, he bet much bigger, planting hundreds of acres of mostly Malbec vines between 1996 and 1999, and constructing a massive, gravity-fed winery, christened
Bodegas Salentein. The first to put “Uco Valley” on its labels, Salentein is locally re-garded as the region’s “locomotive.”
The results from these pioneering vine-yards were evident within several harvests. Grapes grown here possessed higher min-erality, more acidity and firmer tannins than lower sites. “I had never seen acid levels like this in Argentina before,” de-scribes Salentein’s winemaker of 20 years, José “Pepe” Galante (formerly winemaker at Catena). “They are the same as Chablis.”
Word spread quickly. The last two decades have seen explosive growth in Uco with dozens of new wineries and high demand for Uco fruit from producers outside the region. Vineyard prices have increased twenty times in some coveted districts. Trailblazers have continued to test limits, planting successful vineyards well over 5,000 feet and others are pushing higher still: José Lovaglio, owner/winemaker of Vaglio, and the son of Susana Balbo, has planted a Pinot Noir vineyard (not yet in production) in Uco’s La Carrera district that sits above 6,500 feet.
AN APPELLATION RENAISSANCE As many of these original vineyards come of age, the terroir conversation has shifted from simply elevation to soils, a topic Uco winemakers are obsessive about. Dur-ing my week in Uco Valley, I must have crawled into dozens of calicatas—eerily grave-like pits dug in the vineyard to ex-pose various layers of subsoil. Some reveal large round boulders, others marine fos-sils, pebbles or chalky calcium carbonate deposits; various combinations of mate-rial left behind when glaciers and rivers pushed alluvial deposits down the slopes of the Andes millions of years ago.
Zuccardi dug 180 calicatas in his Piedra Infinita vineyard alone (source of the prized
single vineyard Piedra Infinita Malbec), which uncovered 40 different soil types. Laura Catena identified more than 200 distinct parcels in the Adrianna vineyard, which she now vinifies separately. For producers here, the tremendous diversity of soils and microclimates is what makes Uco so distinct from Mendoza’s two other growing areas—Maipu and Lujan de Cuyo—and what they believe calls for a more specific classification system.
“Our growers have been pushing hard for this GI system in Uco to focus on region-al specificity,” says Jonathan Chaplin, co-
“In Gaultallary, we get grapes on the
edge of ripeness with fully mature tannins,
natural acidity and only 13% alcohol.”
— Laura Catena, describing her
family's Adrianna Vineyard
OPPOSITE: Matias Michelini's Passionate Wine vineyard. // THIS PAGE: Laura Catena (top) identified more than 200 distinct parcels in the Adrianna vineyard (left), which she now vinifies separately. // Established in 1996, Bodegas Salentein was one of the most important Uco pioneers. PH
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founder of Brazos Wine, a Brooklyn-based import company which represents many of the new small-scale Uco Valley producers. “No one in Argentina was talking about re-gions ten years ago, and today that’s all we do—we bring maps everywhere.”
This new laser focus on terroir co-incides with a move towards a fresher wine style in Uco—and not only from the younger generation of producers. “Today we make wines that are focused on the place, with less new oak and earlier har-vest dates,” says Zuccardi, who installed 160 concrete eggs and large foudre at his new winery. “Working with concrete and large vats is a return to the winemaking culture of the 1930s.” Salentein and other established names like Matías Riccitelli and Paul Hobbs report picking their fruit as much as a month earlier than the past and using more whole-cluster fermenta-tion for added freshness. With less alcohol and extraction, a clearer picture of Uco’s regional diversity is coming into focus.
GUALTALLARY: A SUNNIER, DRIER BURGUNDY In a corner of Uco’s Tupungato region with vineyards climbing to a mile above sea level, Gualtallary stands out for its rocky, alluvial, chalky soils. Convinced this high mountain oasis was ideal for organic farming, Languedoc vigneron Jean Bousquet planted vineyards in the shadow of the Tupungato mountain in the early 1990s. Today, Domaine Bousquet is the largest exporter of organic wine from Argentina, producing 300,000 cases of (shockingly affordable) wine. Bousquet just debuted their first unoaked, sulfite- free wine, Virgen Malbec.
“Gualtallary is freshness and elegance,” says daughter Anne Bousquet, who now runs the domaine. “We get bright red ber-ry, mineral, and floral notes in our wines, as well as more structure.” Indeed, The Catena Institute research center found that the unique luminosity of mountain sunlight in Gualtallary increases tannins in grape skins.
Gualtallary producers find intense ter-roir expression coming from even very young vines. Edgardo (Edy) del Popolo and David Bonomi left jobs at commercial win-eries to plant bush vines that naturally yield 40 percent less fruit than the region’s aver-age—under one pound per plant. Their first vintage, 2012, showed an aromatic complex-ity and fine-grained tannins that would take years to develop in young vines grown in other regions, Popolo believes. “In Gual-tallary we are able to craft wines with rare purity that really speak of their landscape.” (Gualtallary has yet to be officially approved as a GI because the name is a registered trademark owned by a single producer.)
Cabernet Franc is generating a lot of in-terest here today; though less than 1 percent of plantings, it's the district's most exciting grape, many think. “Gualtallary is the best place for Cabernet Franc in Argentina—it needs elevation,” says Matias Michelini, who founded Zorzal with brothers Gerardo and Juan Pablo in 2007. Fermented and aged in concrete eggs, Zorzal’s Eggo Franco is pep-pery, savory, and earthy with electric acidity. Domaine Bousquet, Rutini, and Andeluna are also big Cabernet Franc champions here.
PARAJE ALTAMIRA: STRUCTURED, SAVORY MALBECIn the southern Uco Valley, the Paraje Altamira district broke away from the larger La Consulta region in San Carlos in 2013—the first GI declared based on terroir research, not political boundaries, which paved the way for Uco’s GI system’s evolution. Achaval Ferrer’s Finca Altamira is arguably the district’s most famous wine; more recently Zuccardi and Altos Las Hormigas have built wineries here.
Altamira features heavier soils than Gualtallary, with loads of silt and cal-cium carbonate—and some very large rocks (which makes planting vineyards costly and difficult). Wines here tend to be
Sebastian Zuccardi (above, center) in front of his solid stone winery in Altamira, where he installed eggs, amphora and conical cement tanks for fermentation. // Eduardo Soler, founder of Ver Sacrum, specializes in Rhône grapes in Chacayes. // Calcium-carbonate-rich soils in Domaine Bousquet's organically farmed vineyards.
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“My aim is to challenge the image of Argentina
as a producer of only overripe, high
alcohol wine.”
— Eduardo Soler, Ver Sacrum
FAMILY OWNED VINEYARDSOur grapes are grown from our family owned vineyards,crafted into great, everyday affordable wines to be enjoyedwith food, and shared with family and friends. From ourvineyards, to your table, enjoy.
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fuller-bodied with dark fruit and herbs; Malbec—by far the district’s star grape—shows power and concentration with fresh acidity. Zuccardi’s Poligonos Altamira, one in a series of single vineyard Malbecs made in different districts, illustrates Altamira’s unique underlying salinity. “The calcare-ous soils here force vines deeper and add structure, which the Malbec variety can often lack,” Zuccardi explains.
SAN PABLO: UCO’S COOLEST,WETTEST DISTRICT San Pablo is Uco’s newest GI, approved in 2019 following a three-year research ef-fort led by Zuccardi, Patricia Ortiz’s Tapiz estate, and Salentein. A newer area with a remarkably distinct microclimate, San Pablo sees more rain and humidity than other districts—and often snow. “San Pab-lo makes wines with tension,” says Galan-te. “It’s not common to see this relation-ship between low pH and alcohol, which gives aromatic intensity and freshness.”
Salentein’s Nogales vineyard, at the southern end of San Pablo, gets enough rain to make dry farming possible—an extreme rarity in Mendoza (which has the lowest rainfall of any wine region in the world). Its Las Sequoias vineyard—the highest in San Pablo, planted to Chardonnay and Pi-not Noir—is lush and green, surrounded by 80-year-old redwood trees, a bizarre sight surrounded by desert. “A microclimate with-in a microclimate,” Galante describes.
Zuccardi picks his nine-year-old San Pablo vineyard—source of his salty Fósil Chardonnay and peppery Poligonos Cabernet Franc and Malbec—almost a month behind his other sites, and the grapes still result in wines with lower alcohol levels, he reports.
CHACAYES: HOTBED OF EXPERIMENTATIONGranted GI status in 2018, Chacayes has long been an innovative area. Francois Lurton pioneered the region in 1996 when he came “looking for freshness,” reports Piedra Negra’s winemaker Thibault Lep-outre. The region’s rocky, non-fertile soils are extremely difficult to plant, he explains; those undeterred are rewarded with wines high in natural acidity, tannin and color—and the ability to farm organi-cally without too much effort.
The trend here has moved towards natural, non-interventionist winemaking. Lepoutre has transformed Piedra Negra’s icon bottling, L’Esprit de Chacayes, picking one month earlier, fermenting in concrete eggs, and moving away from new oak. He’s also now making a sulfite-free Malbec, a project that took him five years to perfect.
At their SuperUco winery, the Michelini brothers (of Zorzal and Passionate Wines), have been working biodynamically since
2012, and plant vines in non-traditional concentric circles based on ripening cycles; they ferment with native yeasts in egg-shaped clay amphora. “Because of the very low pH we have at harvest, it’s so much easier to make natural wine here; bacteria is less of a problem,” says Matias Michelini.
Chacayes terroir suits a wide range of varieties beyond Malbec. Piedra Negra grows a ton of Pinot Gris, and their impressively ageworthy Gran Lurton White is based on Friulano and Viognier. Luis Reginato, anoth-er leading force in Chacayes (and director of viticulture for Catena Zapata), is making a skin contact, concrete-fermented Gewürz-traminer under his Chaman label.
Eduardo Soler founded Ver Sacrum in 2012 to focus on Rhône grapes with cut-tings from an old Maipu planting. “For years, color and quality were perceived as the same thing, so Grenache disappeared from Argentina—we want to bring it back.” His bush-vine Garnacha and Monastrell (Mourvedre) are both marked by floral, white pepper, cool-climate character; the Ver Sacrum Geisha de Jade, a Marsanne-Roussanne blend aged 12 months on lees under a veil of flor, is honeyed, nutty yet bright. “My aim is to challenge the image of Argentina as a producer of only over-ripe, high alcohol wine,” says Soler.
As experimentation continues in Uco, new GIs are carved out and maturing vines become increasingly expressive of place, a new perception of Argentina will undeni-ably supplant the old. ■
PHO
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OU
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S SU
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/ D
OM
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WIN
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UCO VALLE Y WINE REGION
ABOVE: The Michelini brothers of the biodynamic SuperUco label, as well as Zorzal and Passionate Wines. // Domaine Bousquet, Argentina's largest exporter of organic wine. // BELOW: Piedra Negra winemaker Thibault Lepoutre, in the estate's Chacayes vineyards.
● La Carrera
UCO VALLEY
● Gaultallary
● San Pablo
● Los Chacayes
● La Consulta
● Paraje Altamira
Some of Uco Valley's newly defined subregions have Geographical Indication (GI) status, others are still in the process of being officially defined.
BRAND PROFILE
While it is hardly a shock that Barefoot is bringing a hard seltzer to market, it also should be no surprise that they aren’t
just dipping a toe in. Representing the biggest investment in a new product in the popular brand’s 55-year history, Barefoot Hard Seltzer hit shelves in February 2020 as the first nationally distributed hard seltzer made with real wine. A big splash is called for, considering White Claw is currently dominating America’s hard seltzer market and brewers (Budweiser, Corona, Pabst Blue Ribbon) are entering with cans blazing as well.
Barefoot blossomed into practically a household name under ownership by E. & J. Gallo, particularly among budget-minded wine drinkers. The label is already quite strong in bubbly, of course, with a range of 11 fully sparkling wines in 750ml bottles (SRP $9) and seven Barefoot Spritzers (cans and bottles).
Yet the marketing team positions Barefoot Hard Seltzer as something brand new. “We’ve heard from consumers that they are interested in wine-based hard seltzers because it meets their various taste preferences and is easily integrated into their diverse lifestyles,” says Anna Bell, vice president of U.S. marketing. “With Barefoot Hard Seltzer, we’re delivering a delicious, light-bodied, wine-based hard seltzer that can be enjoyed at home, on the go, or with family and friends.”
CASTING A BIG BUBBLY NETBell adds that they are promoting Barefoot Hard Seltzers broadly. “We believe that they will appeal to many consumers. That includes current Barefoot fans, as well as those that are new to the brand or new to wine,” says Bell. “The Barefoot consumer is incredibly diverse. There really isn’t a single category or two where we find our consumers.”
As Barefoot takes aim at its target audience and the competition, product composition is key. The new hard seltzers are made under the watchful eye of Jen Wall, who oversees all the brand’s wines (Barefoot remains the most awarded wine and bubbly brand in U.S. competitions). Made with three main ingredients—Barefoot Wine, seltzer water, and natural flavor—each 250ml can boasts 70 calories, 2 grams of sugar, 4% ABV and is gluten-free.
Those stats put Barefoot right on pace with the hard seltzer market’s wellness claims (arguably, it is even ahead of its 100-calorie peers). But the wine base sets Barefoot apart from malt-based volume leaders, and novel flavors offer additional
appeal. Designed to be less wine- and fruit-forward than its sibling Spritzers, Barefoot Hard Seltzers launched in February 2020 with four flavors, each a combo: Pineapple & Passion Fruit, Cherry & Cranberry, Peach & Nectarine, and Strawberry & Guava.
Barefoot Hard Seltzer is launching with SRP of $1.99 for a single 250ml (8.4oz can, $7.99 for a four-pack, and $19.99 for a variety 12-pack. The Barefoot marketing team expects to employ a variety of ways to spread awareness, including in-store sampling and social media. Anna Bell expects demand for hard seltzer to grow straight through spring and summer—and plans to make sure that 2020 is the year Barefoot Hard Seltzer leaves a significant footprint in this fresh, evolving market. n
BAREFOOT JUMPS INTO HARD SELTZER FIRST WINE-BASED SELTZER TO GO NATIONWIDE
BY W. R. TISH
The wine base sets Barefoot Hard Seltzer apart from malt-based volume leaders, and novel flavors offer additional appeal.
Made with three main ingredients—Barefoot Wine, seltzer water, and natural flavor—each 250ml can boasts 70 calories, 2 grams of sugar, 4% ABV, and is gluten-free.
Variety packs, POS material, social media, and in-store sampling are all planned as part of the national roll-out.
Irish whiskey’s reputation as a mellow, one-dimensional spirit is being upended by an unprecedented amount of innovation and diverse new
entrants. According to the Distilled Spirits Council (DISCUS), the high-end premium Irish whiskey category, representing SRP of $20 to $35, grew 1,106 percent between 2002 and 2018. And entries over $35 grew by a staggering 3,385 percent.
This flourishing movement represents the next phase in the evolution of Irish whiskey, whose overall U.S. sales topped $1 billion in 2018 and now account for 12 percent of the spirit market by value. With eclectic barrel finishes, age statements, heritage grains, and distinct pot still expressions, 21st-century Irish distillers are succeeding by challenging stereotypes and winning over premium consumers.
Why should Scotch have all the grand-finale fun? Egan's is among many Irish distillers finishing their whiskey in sherry casks; “Fortitude” ends up in PX sherry barrels. The Sexton, made by one of a few female master blenders in the industry, uses oloroso sherry barrels. Lambay ages its whiskey in ex-cognac barrels. LEFT: The new Tullamore D.E.W. distillery opened in 2014.
I R I S H W H I S K E Y ’ S
CRAFT BOOMNO OTHER WHISKEY CATEGORY HAS EXPLODED
QUITE LIKE IRISH HAS THIS CENTURY
BY AMANDA SCHUSTER
BRIDGE BETWEEN OLD AND NEWUnderstanding Irish whiskey today calls for a dram of history. In the 20th century, Prohibition and the Irish War of Inde-pendence were catastrophic. The coun-try’s two main markets for whiskey—the U.S. and the U.K.—disintegrated. By the 1950s, all but two distilleries—Bushmills in the North, and Midleton in County Cork (producer of Jameson and Powers)—had died off.
While the industry’s most explosive growth has taken place in the 21st centu-ry, the seeds of renewal were effectively planted in 1987, when John Teeling con-verted a potato alcohol plant in County Louth into the Cooley Distillery. Though it was always intended for large-volume production, one could argue that Cooley propelled what became a wave of modern craft Irish whiskey distilleries. Cooley is where then-emerging brands Connemara (which started the Irish peated whiskey movement), The Tyrconnell, and Kilbeg-gan were produced. (Cooley and its brands were eventually sold to Beam Suntory in 2011, and some operations have shifted to the once-shuttered Kilbeggan Distillery, where the first modern-day Irish small-batch rye has been produced.)
The years following the sale of Cooley were marked by further expansion. Brands and distilleries either grew from the dust of shuttered businesses or sprouted as new entities. In 2011 there were four distilleries operating in Ireland; today there are close to 20, and a dozen more are in planning.
In 2015, John Teeling’s sons, Jack and Stephen, launched Teeling Whiskey in Dublin, initially using some of the barrels they acquired from Cooley. “Irish whiskey at this time was very one-dimensional,” says Jack Teeling, “[and] based around heritage brands with a very accessible taste. To us, it was crying out for a more craft-oriented premium Irish whiskey with a unique full flavor and distinctive brand personality to capture the imagination.”
STARTUP CULTUREIn retrospect, the commercial success of Jameson both drew in thirsty consumers and compelled other brands to develop effective points of distinction. The Irish startups of the 21st century are pursuing a range of profiles and identities, creating a wildly diverse landscape not seen before in the category.
Some chose to release matured, sourced whiskey—typically single malts but sometimes single grain and pot still whiskeys as well—with sophisticated wine and spirit cask finishes. These in-clude Egan’s, The Sexton, Knappogue Castle (most recently single malts fin-ished in Marsala, Barolo, and Bordeaux casks), and Lambay (which is finished in cognac barrels), among many others.
Some distilleries, as many of their American counterparts have done, chose to source and bottle whiskey until their own distillate is matured—these include Pearse Lyons (now distilling in a former church in Dublin’s Liberties
Bushmills was ahead of the curve in terms of age statement single malts and intriguing finishes, such as rum and cider. JAMESON:
LEADING & AT THE CUTTING EDGE
The craft movement sweeping the world of Irish whiskey has only benefited category leader Jameson. Accounting for roughly three out of every four bottles of Irish whiskey con-sumed in the U.S., Jameson has carried the Irish category to new heights, maintaining double-digit annual growth even as the brand enjoys near-complete market satura-tion. While the shot-friendly triple-distilled flagship whiskey remains king, Jameson has been hugely successful with innovative, pre-mium spin-offs as well.
Black Barrel, launched in 2013, presented Jameson in twice-charred barrels. Jameson Caskmates followed, with five editions, each featuring Jameson finished in casks that were seasoned in a specific craft beer; the Stout (2015) and IPA (2017) editions became part of the permanent line.
The latest and perhaps most provocative variation—Jameson Cold Brew, a 60-proof combination of triple-distilled Jameson and cold-brew coffee. Just as Caskmates packed natural appeal for beer lovers, the new Cold Brew is expected to attract coffee lovers.
neighborhood) and Clonakilty in County Cork. Tipperary Distillery, located at Ballindoney farm, is using its own water to cut sourced distillates while its heritage barley whiskeys mature.
With increased sourcing, greater attention to blending naturally followed. Louise McGuane is a leader in the revival of bonded whiskey in Ireland; she operates on a family farm in County Clare, where she’s bringing back the J.J. Corry brand (named after a legendary nearby whiskey bonder). McGuane blends and matures whiskeys from multiple sources. Her first release, The Gael, features whiskeys that are from 7 to 26 years old.
Bernard and Rosemary Walsh launched their company in 1999, initially bottling their Irish coffee recipe but a few years later switching to whiskey prop-
er. The Irishman Founders Reserve is a blend of two styles—single malt (70 per-cent) and single pot still. Writers’ Tears Copper Pot, launched in 2009 (the name honors Irish poets, novelists, and play-wrights), is 60 percent pot still and 40 percent single malt, aged in American oak bourbon casks.
Part of what has fueled the American craft movement is an emphasis on lo-cal ingredients; Ireland’s 21st-century startups are no different. West Cork (one of the few distilleries in Ireland to boast actual Irish ownership) uses Irish barley exclusively, as well as fresh lo-cal spring water. On the finishing end, West Cork’s Glengarriff Series features
specific chars (e.g., Peated and Bog Oak).Startups focused on distilling their
own whiskey are gaining traction. Glendalough, in the Wicklow Mountains
south of Dublin, first made a splash with its unaged poitín (the Irish equivalent of moonshine, also known as potcheen—a style that had been illegal for centuries) but is now in the pot still and single malt game, recently with a 13 Year single malt finished in Japanese mizunara casks.
TAPPING STRENGTHSLarger, established brands, which have greater stocks to work with, have an-swered the growing craft demand by in-creasing their age-statement single-malt expressions—again, often with intriguing finishes. Bushmills now has single malts aged 10, 16, and 21 years, the latter two finished in port and madeira casks, re-spectively. The Tyrconnell last year added a 16 Year Old finished in casks seasoned with oloroso and moscatel, joining a trio of 10-year-olds.
Slane, like many brands, is both old and new. Slane Castle has been in the hands of the Conyngham family since it was built in the late 18th century. In the modern era, Slane has become well-known for its rock music festival, first staged in 1981; and now Irish whiskey, created in 2017 in collaboration with Brown-Forman.
Whiskey tourism is catching on in Ireland. Tipperary Distillery has partnered with Dundrum House Hotel and Golf Resort to build a much larger distillery at the hotel and begin welcoming visitors in 2021. Pictured, right: Tipperary co-founder Jennifer Nickerson.
I R I S H W H I S K E Y ' S CRAFT BOOM
Celebrate St. Patrick’s Day with the
IRISH POR T FOL IO
• 100% IRISH OWNED DISTILLERY
• PRODUCED USING ONLY LOCAL IRISH GRAINS AND SPRING WATER
• 100% COPPER POT STILL FERMENTATION
• ARTISANAL & HANDCRAFTED
• CRAFTED BY IRELAND’S ONLY FEMALE MASTER GIN DISTILLER, IN A CUSTOM-DESIGNED COPPER POT STILL
• INSPIRED BY THE LUSH GARDENS OF GARNISH ISLAND OFF THE SOUTHERN COAST OF IRELAND
• TRIPLE DISTILLED
• SMALL BATCH PRODUCTION
• CRAFTED USING THE FINEST LOCAL INGREDIENTS
• AGED IN BOURBON CASKS
94
Tullamore D.E.W. opened a new facility in 2014 that brought whiskey production back to its home in County Offaly for the first time in 60 years. Tullamore has branched out with cask finishes of Caribbean rum as well as cider, and it’s the only distillery in Ireland dedicating separate stills to grain, malt, and pot still production.
Although the pot still whiskey tra-dition—a distinctly Irish creation with a mash of both malted and unmalted barley—has been embraced by many of the new dis-tillers, it’s a style that was given premium status by Irish Distillers. Midleton distillery began releasing Redbreast single pot still (like a single malt in that it originates from a single distillery) age-statement whiskeys in the 1990s, and its Spot pot still labels (Green, Yellow, Red) several years later, as well as premium releases of heritage label Powers, such as Three Swallow.
As would be expected given recent growth and Ireland’s famously vibrant culture, the current U.S. Irish whiskey market is peppered with brands that connect with Irish culture. Claddagh and Donegal Estates conjure images of the Emerald Isle. The Pogues Irish Whiskey is the toast of the punk band’s fanbase. Slane is familiar to rock ’n roll fans, thanks to the famous Slane Castle Concert series. Then there are the two Irish whiskeys with a rough and tumble image: mixed martial
arts champ Conor McGregor’s Proper No. Twelve; and John L Sullivan, recalling the legendary Boston-based boxer.
SELLING—AND MIXING WITH—IRISHBikram Singh, the owner of Norfolk Wine & Spirits in Norfolk, Massachusetts, keeps more than 50 bottles of the store’s more than 90 selections of Irish whiskey open, including those from
independent bottlers like Blackadder and Exclusive Malts, so that customers can become accustomed to the various styles. “The diversity of whiskeys from Ireland has really grown over the last few years,” Singh says.
Cocktail-focused bars with extensive Irish whiskey selections, such as The Dead Rabbit in New York City, see the emerging range of styles and flavors as new opportunities for mixing. “One of the beauties of using Irish whiskey in cocktails is its versatility,” says Jillian Vose, The Dead Rabbit’s beverage director and managing partner. “A pot still will make a much different drink than a single malt, blend, or single grain.” For its signature Irish Coffee, the bar uses Bushmills because of its lighter style, to match the coffee and cream. “Put in a pot still like Powers John’s Lane and it’s all wrong,” says Vose, “even if the whiskey is a gorgeous one.”
Vose advises using Irish whiskey in other types of cocktails too: “I like using the stone fruit and floral notes of, say, Knappogue 12 Year Old to make lighter-style Manhattan variants. Pot stills are heavier and go well in darker Manhattan and Old Fashioned-style drinks.”
What will the new decade bring for Irish whiskey? “I am a firm believer that there are still huge opportunities for Irish whiskey,” says Jack Teeling, “It’s my view that we are in the middle of a long-term up-trend for premium Irish whiskey.” n
Irish whiskey's shooter-friendly character was never in doubt, but mixability is becoming a strength. The Royal Bermuda Yacht Club has Tiki vibes, featur-ing Tullamore D.E.W. Caribbean Rum Cask Finish, macadamia syrup, Curaçao, velvet falernum, lime, and Tiki bitters.
A vintage scene from Midleton Distillery, where Jameson, Powers, Redbreast, and the Spot whiskeys are produced. Knappogue Castle, among the younger Irish whiskey brands, focuses on single malts.
I R I S H W H I S K E Y ' S CRAFT BOOM
I N T R O D U C I N G t h e
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CORAL REEFS
OUR
ARE DISAPPEARINGCoral reefs are the bustling epicenters of undersea life and one of the most threatened ecosystems in the world. Today’s generation could be the last to see a living coral reef.
Living Coral Sparkling Rosé is not just a wine with a cause, it’s a wine that exists because of a cause – educating consumers about the importance of coral reefs, creating awareness of the threats they are facing, and most importantly, taking action to ensure these vibrant undersea communities do not vanish from the face of the earth.
People around the world are answering the call to save our coral reefs. Scientists, activists, entrepreneurs, philanthropists and people from all walks of life are banding together to take action to preserve and restore our reefs. We have joined the cause by creating the Living Coral Foundation.
For every bottle sold, the Living Coral Foundation will make a contribution to an organization dedicated to saving our coral reefs. For more information, visit livingcoral.com
*Source: Coral Gardeners
Coral reefs are home to about 25% of known marine species.
Coral reefs are the ocean’s lungs, transforming CO2 into the air we breathe.
Coral reefs act as natural barriers against storm events, tsunamis and coastal erosion.
Coral reefs support the livelihood of over 500 million people who rely upon them for food, resources and income.
CORAL REEFS ARE UNDER THREAT *
Almost half of the world’s coral reefs have been lost in the past 40 years.
Without action ALL coral reefs could be dead by 2050.
THERE’S A SOLUTION
TAKING ACTIONIS CRUCIAL*
LIVING
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INTRODUCING LIVING CORAL SPARKLING ROSÉ
Vibrant and effervescent, Living Coral Sparkling Rosé captures the exquisite splendor of a coral reef in every glass. The wine pours the color of life and is overflowing with ripe fruit flavors and lively acidity to transport you to a rich undersea world with every sip.
RESTORING HOPEFOR CORAL REEFS
RAISE A GLASSTO RAISE A REEF
Visit livingcoral.com for more info on how Living Coral Sparkling Rosé is taking action and how you can help to save our coral reefs.
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The Living Coral Foundation is a charitable organization dedicated to the preservation of the world’s coral reefs. All contributions are tax deductible as provided by law.
©2020 Imported from Italy by Enovation Brands, Inc., Aventura, FL 33180enovationbrands.com | livingcoral.com | PLEASE DRINK RESPONSIBLY
The bounty of options for spirits buy-ers has never been greater. But how much of a good thing is Just...Too...Much? Like for a Netflix binger on a chilly winter weekend, the surfeit of choices can feel overwhelming even as they entice.
For Gary Gruver, senior manager beverage, Marriott International, which has 7,000+ units in operation, a prod-
uct’s relevance within a program is par-amount. “Other than the obvious value/quality of said spirit, of course,” he says. “Taking in spirits just for the sake of a placement really doesn’t do anyone any good, including the supplier—if it’s something that’s not going to play into the brand, it will ultimately be dead stock and won’t move.”
In Marriott’s case, that “brand” is generally a hotel bar, and while local outlets may have mandated core-list products, those operators can make locally relevant decisions on their own, especially with craft or regional brands. “That only strengthens locality for our concepts,” Gruver says.
But the appeal of craft and local only extends so far, says Kellie Thorn, bar manager at Atlanta’s Empire State South. “We like to work with smaller, more craft
MAKING DIFFICULT INVENTORY DECISIONS IN AN ERA OF RAPID-FIRE RELEASES
BY JACK ROBERTIELLO
onsider the back bar. Part billboard, part shelving, this humble swath of bar architecture has become a battleground for a multiplying field of brands vying for a scant number of slots. “With back bar space being at a premium these days,
it is very cutthroat when it comes to bringing in new product,” says Steve Walton, head of beverage at High West Saloon in Park City, Utah.
CRaised by Wolves in San Diego has its back bar in the round. // Kellie Thorn at Atlanta’s Empire State South believes there is room for big brands and craft alike behind the bar. // Dave Fisher at Peppi’s Cellar in New York City filters selections based on a combination of factors, starting with quality and value, but also taking into account bar theme and category niches.
BALANCING THE
BACK BAR
brands, but we won’t carry a product just because it’s ‘craft’ or ‘local.’ It has to be well made,” says Thorn. “We aren’t anti-Big Brand, by the way. Those producers are often the benchmark and we look to them to set an example.”
Chris Patino, co-owner of Raised by Wolves, a bar and spirits retail shop in San Diego, believes there has to be “synergy” between a bar’s ethos and products they offer: “While you can’t completely ignore the trends, or the wants and needs of your clientele, I think that it’s important to stay the course and stick within the lines of the program that you create.”
A brand’s backstory can be a factor, too. Or not. “We love brands that have great stories, but they have to be genuine/authentic,” says Patino. “I spent enough years on the marketing side of this business, working with giant spirit brands that spun made up artificial origin stories to give their brands a more interesting meaning. Ironically, a lot of those brands did have great stories regarding their quality and production methods, but those weren’t the stories being told because they weren’t ‘sexy’ enough for consumers.”
Dave Fisher, beverage director at New York City’s Gran Tivoli and Peppi’s Cellar, disagrees slightly. “To me the story is a bo-nus. I’m all about what’s in the bottle and its value proposition,” says Fisher. At his operations, initial brand selection is based on product quality, bar theme, cocktail program, and filling niches—until his bar guests vote with their wallets. “If custom-ers are continually calling for a brand, then naturally that comes into consider-ation. The integrity of the venue is still the most important driver, but at the end of the day, we are here to provide people with what they like,” he adds.
VENUE RELEVANCE VS. DEMANDMeeting consumer demands, of course, is sometimes a matter of accounting for the masses. Alberto Miranda, who owns Nobody Told Me in Manhattan’s Upper West Side, notes, “We are in the hospitality industry and that’s always part of the context when making inventory decisions. There are brands that you just need to carry because of the loyalty their consumers have—Tito’s and Hennessy come to mind. In certain markets, not carrying them is akin to being inhospitable to large demographics.”
And then there’s personal preference and relationships. Tommy Flynn, beverage director at Paper Daisy in New York, says,
“Like anyone else, I have a couple of catego-ries, mezcal and gin, that I am particularly fond of. A lot of my friends have made the jump from bartender to brand ambassador over the years. I like to support where I can and bring their products in.”
Bars that specialize can find it easi-er to decide, especially if their goal is to stock a comprehensive range of a catego-ry. “I like to always have a few interesting bottles to geek out on with my customers,” says Miranda. “Right now it’s Fabriquero Sotol. Not only is it delicious with very pronounced leather and grass notes, but it helps out parts of Mexico that haven’t benefited from tequila production.”
Buzz doesn’t do it for all buyers, unless the demand becomes insistent from customers, though. “What is in the bottle means more to me than buzz,” says Flynn. “To be honest, I’m kind of weird when it comes to this. The more buzz something has, the less excited I am about it. I love a good backstory but if the juice doesn’t live up to the story then there isn’t much interest.”
Patino has perhaps the best explana-tion of what gets bought, served, and dis-played at most thought-out operations: “For us, the absolute most important thing when it comes to selecting new products is quality, followed closely by price, and fin-ished by answering one simple question: Would we be proud to serve this to our friends and family at home?” ■
“I love a good backstory, but if the juice doesn’t live up to the story then there isn’t much interest.”
— Tommy Flynn, Paper Daisy”
BAL ANCING THE BACK BAR
LEFT: Alberto Miranda, who owns Nobody Told Me, says there are some must-carry brands due to customer loyalty. // ABOVE: The expansive back bar at Peppi's Cellar. // BELOW: Chris Patino, Raised by Wolves
IntroducingRumChata Limón!
RumChata Limón™. Caribbean Rum with Real Dairy Cream, Natural & Artifi cial Flavors, 14% alc/vol. Agave Loco Brands, Pewaukee, WI.Please Enjoy Responsibly. RUMCHATA, RUMCHATA LIMÓN, and CHATA are trademarks of Agave Loco, LLC
Caribbean Rum, Real Dairy Cream, Rich Vanilla, and Sunny Lemon!
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IntroducingRumChata Limón!
IntroducingRumChata Limón!
IntroducingRumChata Limón!
RumChata Limón™. Caribbean Rum with Real Dairy Cream, Natural & Artifi cial Flavors, 14% alc/vol. Agave Loco Brands, Pewaukee, WI.Please Enjoy Responsibly. RUMCHATA, RUMCHATA LIMÓN, and CHATA are trademarks of Agave Loco, LLC
Caribbean Rum, Real Dairy Cream, Rich Vanilla, and Sunny Lemon!Sunny Lemon!
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BRAND PROFILE
s 2019’s hottest beverage trend bar-rels on and new brands enter the hard seltzer market, differentia-tion is more important than ever.
High Noon Sun Sips, launched in May 2019 by E. & J. Gallo, is determined to stand apart from the pack, both in ingredients and image.
“Not only are we one of the few pre-mium hard seltzers, we are the only brand to use real vodka and real juice in our hard seltzer,” says Britt West, vice president and general manager for E&J Gallo Spirits. “Using real vodka, sparkling water and a splash of real juice in High Noon gives us a unique taste profile from the malt and sugar-based beer seltzers.”
With 100 calories and 4.5% ABV per 12oz (355ml) can, High Noon delivers on all of the category’s widely promoted
“wellness” claims. West points out that as awareness of the hard seltzer category in-creases, consumers are more and more fa-miliar with these claims across all brands: “They’ve become synonymous with the category and what people expect to find. This expectation allows us to really high-light High Noon’s key differentiators: real vodka and real juice.”
REALITY: CHECK!High Noon Sun Sips’ four flavors—Black Cherry, Grapefruit, Pineapple, and Water-melon—all feature the five-times-distilled vodka base and no added sugar. A number of elements informed the initial flavor of-ferings, according to West, including con-sumer focus groups, flavor trends in the industry, gaps across the current category players, and, naturally, taste. He describes High Noon as “a crisp, clean-tasting hard seltzer that provides a refreshing, real fruit taste without being overly sweet. We have received great responses from consumers and the trade ever since High Noon launched. We’ve also been recog-nized by multiple publications as the best tasting hard seltzer.”
In sync with emphasizing the purity of its ingredients, High Noon’s bright, outdoorsy brand image is embedded in its name—Sun Sips—and packaging, with colorful nods to the sun and sky. High Noon is not concerned with evening rec-reation; the brand speaks loud and clear to daytime enjoyment occasions—beach, pool, porch, backyard, picnic.
OPPORTUNITY KNOCKSThe Sun Sips cans are available both individually and in 4-packs, priced at $2.50 MSRP for single cans and $9.99 MSRP for 4-packs; 12-can variety packs ($27.99) were just added. Because regulations regarding low-ABV spirits-based seltzer varies greatly by state, West believes the brand represents a special opportunity to independent retailers: “Because many independent retailers do not or can not sell hard seltzers or beer or they can’t compete with grocery pricing, they are not fully aware of the tremendous hard seltzer growth. High Noon is the perfect fit to help the independent capture the opportunity.” n
HARD SELTZER’S NEW HOT SPOTHIGH NOON STAKES ITS CLAIM AS A BETTER BUBBLY
BY W. R. TISH
High Noon’s POS projects its colorful “Sun Sips” identity and consumer-friendly attributes. Simply and subtly, the brand is positioning itself to be a part of daytime outdoor activities.
High Noon’s May 2019 launch was reinforced with TV ads during the football season, and distribution was national by January 2020.
n Continued promotion via TV, out of home, and digital platforms
n Two new flavors—peach and lime—launch in spring
n Variety 8-pack joins the 12-pack in summer
n Partnerships with Barstool Sports, Florida Gators, and Michigan State Athletics
n 20-market “street team” to ramp up on-premise activations and POS in Q2
WHAT’S AHEAD FORHIGH NOON?
“
”Hands downthe best of the group
Source: The Tasting Panel, January 2020. Rated via blind tasting of industry professionals against eight other brands within the category. Three flavors per brand were tasted. Vodka with Real Fruit Juice, Sparkling Water, and Natural Flavors, Alcohol 4.5% by Volume (9 Proof), ©2019 High Noon Spirits Company,
Memphis, TN. All rights reserved. AVERAGE ANALYSIS PER 12 FL. OZ, ANY FLAVOR - CALORIES: 100, CARBOHYDRATES: 4.8G, PROTEIN: 0, FAT: 0.
HARD SELTZER1BEST TASTINGas voted by The Tasting Panel Magazine
High Noon® Hard Seltzer brand was voted Number One Best Tasting Hard Seltzer brand in a blind tasting by The Tasting Panel Magazine.
Three flavors of nine Hard Seltzer brands were part of the blind tasting.
#
to order, ask yourlocal Gallo Sales representative
M ike Di Tota is beverage direc-tor at The Smith, the casual American brasserie-style concept with locations in New
York, Washington, D.C., and Chicago.
BEVERAGE MEDIA GROUP: You’re a graduate of the School of Professional Horticulture at the New York Botanical Garden. Does that experience directly translate to your drinks?
MIKE DI TOTA: It was a happy accident. I never intended to go to horticultural school to learn how to make better cock-tails, but it has shaped my approach and continues to inspire new ideas. When learning about plants and understand-ing their specific uses and flavor profiles, I would imagine those aspects when de-veloping new recipes. Instead of focusing on the spirit in a drink first, I start with the other ingredients and then build from there, incorporating elements to create a balanced cocktail. Botanical-driven cock-tails have certainly become popular, but were uncommon 10 years ago when I was getting started.
BMG: The Smith, first launched in New York in 2007, attracts a stream of loyal customers. Since joining the company last year you’ve added drinks like the Gatsby (gin, pomegranate, hibiscus, lemon, Prosecco) to the menu. How do you plan to shift the beverage program?
MDT: My overall goal is to bring balance. I’ve been focusing on tweaking classics on our menu and continuing to elevate the ingredients while keeping the pro-gram fun and interactive. I am also work-ing closely with the culinary development team, cross-utilizing seasonal items and thinking of ways we can repurpose ingre-dients that would otherwise be wasted.
BMG: I know that you enjoy showcasing local products at The Smith, like the Long Island City-made Thousand Stars Pilsner from Alewife Brewing and the DC Brau Penn Quarter Porter. What is your philosophy behind this?
MDT: Our mission is to make people happy, and by supporting our communities and partnering with small producers we are able to provide the best quality to our guests while making an impact locally, which is important to us.
BMG: With warmer weather around the bend, and your penchant for the botanical, which ingredients are you looking forward to playing with soon?
MDT: I am most excited for watermelon and strawberries, and summer herbs like lavender, basil, and thyme. ■
BOTANICAL INSPIRATIONMIKE DI TOTA, BEVERAGE DIRECTOR,THE SMITH, NYC, D.C. & CHICAGO
BY ALIA AKKAM
BAR TALK
How Long He’s Been Behind the Bar: 12 years
Favorite spirit: Mezcal
Favorite cocktail: A perfectly-made Margarita
If He Wasn’t Working in Hospitality He Would Be: A gardener, farmer, or spin instructor
• THREE OF A KIND
The Smith’s cocktail menu groups over a dozen drinks by style (bubbly, punch, boozy, spicy…); Three of a Kind is listed under “crisp.”
Ingredients:½ oz house Tequila½ oz house Mezcal½ oz Teeling Irish Whiskey½ oz Combier Apricot Liqueur½ oz Batavia Arrack van Oosten½ oz Maple Syrup
½ oz Orgeat¾ oz Lime Juice1 small dash Mole BittersGarnish: dried lime wheel, nutmeg
Method: Add all ingredients to a mixing tin with ice; shake and strain into tulip glass with ice.
Turning inventory. And heads.
That’s Proof.
BY SOUTHERN GLAZER’S
ProofTM
Visit about.sgproof.com to find out more
34 BEVERAGE JOURNAL March 2020 www.BeverageJournalInc.com
The Clemson alum is Jimmy Spiropoulos. His home is Mary-land. His place of work? Town Center Market in Riverdale Park, a store his father Pete started in 1988 with the purchase of Dumm's Corner Market. The Spiropoulos family moved the business from that 1,700-square-foot location to its current and much bigger ad-dress on Queensbury Road in May 2012 and changed the name.
"My father basically signed over the business to [my brother Ted and I] years ago," Spiropoulos recalled. "But he still comes to work every day. He's 81, and you'll see him outside watering his beloved plants or cleaning up. We're here together on a daily basis, and it's been a good run."
That said, he doesn't miss the old days at the former location. "The fruits of our labor never seemed to show there," Spiorpou-los said. "We were handicapped by space and lack of selection. Ever since we've been at Town Center Market, the hard work has definitely paid off. We've seen the growth. We've seen our cus-tomers more thankful for what we do."
He continued, "Town Center Market is unique in that we do so much all under one roof. We go to great lengths to cater to every demographic in Prince George's County. We have 34 taps along with an Austrian-made growler machine. So, there could be a customer getting a 'fill' at one end of the store, while at the opposite end someone could be purchasing a money order or making a bill payment. Typically, those two customers are from two different walks of life. But both are very important to us."
BY TEDDY DURGIN
"I graduated from Clemson University in 1990. I graduated on Saturday, I drove home Sunday, and went to work Monday … and I haven't stopped since!"
TOWN CENTER MARKET'S JIMMY SPIROPOULOS
Brothers Ted and Jimmy Spiropoulos of Town Center Market in Riverdale Park.
FIGHTING TO PROTECT THE INDEPENDENT STORE OWNER
But Spiropoulos and family have seen their fair share of strug-gle. Four years ago in P.G., liquor stores were open six days a week and closed on Sundays. "At that point in time, Town Center Market was only a beer and wine store," he noted. "We didn't carry liquor, and that meant we were allowed to be open on Sun-day."
When the county decided to let liquor stores open on Sun-days, Spiropoulos went on what he called a "self-lobbying mis-sion" in the state capital. "Delegate Anne Healey sponsored a bill that allowed stores like mine to be able to upgrade to sell liquor in order to better compete with the liquor stores that would now be open on Sunday," he stated. "The bill failed in subcommit-tee. That next year, we experienced a 30 percent loss in business on Sundays. . . . Several of the delegation members who voted against me pulled me aside and said, 'We feel you're trying to get an upgraded license for free, and we think you should do what everybody else has done. Purchase a license if you can find one and petition to move it.'"
He ended up buying such a license for $200,000 three years ago. "Today, I still owe a $100,000 balance on it. And now, just a few weeks ago, a bill was submitted by Del. Wanika Fisher to allow beer and wine sales in all supermarkets countywide. I feel like my family has played by the rules over the years, and we get punished for doing the right thing."
It helps to have colleagues who know their way around state and local politics. One of the biggest allies has been the Mary-land State Licensed Beverage Association (MSLBA). "Typically, the MSLBA doesn't like to get involved in the more local issues," Spiropoulos said. "But clearly they understand the impact of beer and wine in all grocery stores in Prince George's County. If beer and wine becomes available in P.G. grocery stores, it's just a mat-
ter of time before it's statewide."As evidence of the potential dangers he and other store op-
erators face, Spiropoulos pointed to Colorado. Starting in Janu-ary 2019, beer -- just beer, not wine -- was allowed to be sold in all grocery stores in the state. "Thirteen months removed, the average drop in overall sales in Colorado liquor stores is 20 to 40 percent," he stated, "and 200 stores have gone out of business with more on the cusp of closing."
Spiropoulos plans to continue being vocal in hopes the coun-ty and state can avoid Colorado's dark fate. "We once employed four people," he concluded. "Now, we employ over 20. We have a small-group health plan in which I pay for four of my manag-ers' health coverage in full. None of my employees are minimum-wage earners. We are what the county has promoted! The simple fact of the matter is a store like Town Center Market makes its living off selling alcohol. A store like Whole Foods does not." n
MSLBA New Logos 050703.qxd 5/10/2003 7:50 AM Page 1
Is Your Establishment a Member of the Maryland State Licensed Beverage Association (MSLBA)?
MSLBA—Representing Alcohol Beverage Licensees since 1950
MSLBA is the multicultural, go-to organization for Maryland retail alcohol beverage industry issues. No matter how proficient you are at the operations and management of your business, many factors influencing your success are outside your direct control. Your best chance for competently and successfully dealing with external forces such as legislation, regulation, suppliers, enforcement agencies and prohibition efforts, is by joining with other retailers for reputable representation through MSLBA.
Contact MSLBA for Membership Information:
Phone: (410) 871-1377 • FAX: (410) 871-2545 • E-Mail: [email protected] Please provide the following: Name of County or City Alcohol Licensing Board for Your Establishment: ___________________________ Your Name: ____________________________________ Phone: ( ) _________________________ Business Name: __________________________________________________________________________ Business Physical Address: _________________________________________________________________
Is Your Establishment a Member of the Maryland State Licensed Beverage Association (MSLBA)?
MSLBA—Representing Alcohol Beverage Licensees since 1950 One of Many Achievements - "MSLBA has kept the playing field even" for independent alcohol beverage retailers by repeatedly defeating chain store legislation
MSLBA is the multicultural, go-to organization for Maryland retail alcohol beverage industry issues. No matter how proficient you are at the operations and management of your business, many factors influencing your success are outside your direct control. Your best chance for competently and successfully dealing with external forces such as legislation, regulation, suppliers, enforcement agencies and prohibition efforts, is by joining with other retailers for reputable representation through MSLBA.
Contact MSLBA for Membership Information:
Phone: (410) 871-1377 • FAX: (410) 871-2545 • E-Mail: [email protected]
Please provide the following: Name of County or City Alcohol Licensing Board for Your Establishment: ____________________________ Your Name: _____________________________________ Phone: ( ) _________________________ Business Name: ___________________________________________________________________________ Business Physical Address: __________________________________________________________________
Message from Jimmy Spiropoulos of Town Center Market:
"One of the biggest allies has been the Maryland State Licensed Beverage Association (MSLBA)," Spiropoulos said. "If beer and wine becomes available
in P.G. grocery stores, it's just a matter of time before it's statewide."
36 BEVERAGE JOURNAL March 2020 www.BeverageJournalInc.com
M A R K E T S H O T S SHEEP DOG PEANUT BUTTER WHISKEY
Ian Casker and Jason Wilson from the Sazerac Company recently kicked off Sheep Dog Peanut Butter Whiskey at Breakthru Beverage.
VINE CONNECTIONS NOW IN THE MARKETBreakthru Beverage is now proudly distributing the products of Vine Connections. For over 20 years, Vine Connections has delivered wine, sake, and spirits from inspiring families from Argentina, Chile, and Japan.
The Vine Connection launch meeting at Breakthru Beverage Maryland.
The Vine Connection launch meeting at Breakthru Beverage Washington DC.
Call us today!
410-757-4965
“Your knowledge and ability to put out fires can't be measured in dollars and cents. With all the issues that came up, this sale would not have happened without your expertise…”
Ron S., Frederick County
“Steve was a critical component in getting our business sold. He had a vision on how best to bring us to market and delivered on it through will and determination…”
Jack F., Anne Arundel County
Email: [email protected]
Business IntermediarySteve Atkins, Principal Broker
Recognized Industry ExpertA division of Atkins Realty Group, Inc.
Business SolutionsATKINS
Discover
We Sell Businesses!
www.BeverageJournalInc.com March 2020 BEVERAGE JOURNAL 37
FIRE IN ICE FESTIVALOver 14,000 residents and visitors filled the streets of downtown Frederick, MD for the annual Fire in Ice festival, the city's largest First Saturday event. First Saturday’s are a series of events held by the Downtown Frederick Partnership that offer an exciting season of various activities to highlight the city’s eclectic and vibrant community. Bulleit Bourbon, Belvedere Vodka, and Smirnoff Vodka had featured ice sculptures and winter cocktails for attendees.
38 BEVERAGE JOURNAL March 2020 www.BeverageJournalInc.com
M A R K E T S H O T S
WOODINVILLE WHISKEY CO.The Breakthru Beverage United Division and Moët Hennessy teams recently kicked off Woodville Whiskey Co. Straight Bourbon Whiskey and Woodinville Whiskey Co. Bourbon Whiskey Finished In Port Casks.
REVEL AVILABreakthru Beverage recently launched Revel Avila. Revel represents not only a new brand, but a new Agave based category, Avila.
Here are Larry Fioretti, AMC Marketing & Sales; J.T. McCray, Bruce Richardson, both with Breakthru Beverage; Emery Coccia, AMC Marketing & Sales; Ira Kasoff, Breakthru Beverage; Micah McFarlane, Revel Spirits; Mike Schneider, Breakthru Beverage; and Chris Abbott, Revel Spirits; at the Breakthru Beverage launch meeting.
40 BEVERAGE JOURNAL March 2020 www.BeverageJournalInc.com
Brewers Association of Maryland
This winter, the Brewers Association of Maryland elected brewery members to new positions on the executive board. Sarah Healey, Milkhouse Brewery, is the trade association's new president.
“It is an honor and privilege to be work-ing as a representative for the incredible community of brewers in our state. I am looking forward to working with all of our members to continue our forward movement in making Maryland the top destination for craft beer producers and drinkers alike,” said Healey about her new position on the Board.
To celebrate FeBREWary - Maryland Craft Beer Lovers Month, the industry received a proclamation from Governor Hogan's office. The Brewers Association of Mary-land hosted a kickoff event at Denizens Brewing Company in Silver Spring that included the tapping of women-brewed collaborative beer, the unveiling of the "Women in Beer" trail, and comments from Maryland's Assistant Secretary of Commerce, Tom Riford.
The Maryland Craft Beer Festival returns to the Carroll Creek Linear Park on Satur-day, May 9, 2020. This annual festival at-tracts thousands of beer enthusiasts for a day of delicious beer, live music, and fun!
More information about the Brewers Association of Maryland can be found at marylandbeer.org.
Maryland Distillers Guild
Many members of the Maryland Distillers Guild are focusing on introducing cock-tail programs in distillery tasting rooms throughout Maryland. This new consumer experience allows distillery visitors to explore Maryland-made spirits while enjoying delicious, creative cocktails. The Maryland Distillers Guild has developed the Maryland Cocktail Menu, celebrating local spirits and mixers.
The Maryland Cocktail Menu, and all Maryland Distillers Guild information, can be found at marylandspirits.org.
Pictured below is The Hair of the Wolf. This is but one example of the many delectable drinks that you will find on the Maryland Cocktail Menu.
Maryland Wineries Association
Maryland wineries celebrate Maryland Wine Month this March. The celebration begins in Annapolis, with an official kick-off by First Lady Yumi Hogan. Maryland Wine Month is a highlight for the indus-try, showcasing the economic impact of the state's wine industry and driving consumer tourism to wineries throughout Maryland.
The Maryland wine industry makes $200 million in annual economic impact while directly supporting 2,000 industry jobs. In 2019, Maryland wineries produced 461,000 gallons of wine and vineyards throughout the state are cultivating more than 1,000 acres of grapes.
The Maryland Wineries Association is proud to announce "A Maryland WIne Experience." This inaugural event is on Saturday, April 25, 2020 at the Westin Bal-timore Washington Airport. A Maryland Wine Experience features a sparkling reception, a grand tasting, and a paired wine makers' dinner. Each portion of this event is meant to educate wine enthusi-asts.
More details about the Maryland Winer-ies Association and A Maryland Wine Experience can be found at marylandwine.com.
NEWS AND HAPPENINGS IN AND AROUND MARYLAND'S BREWERIES, DISTILLERIES AND WINERIES
M A D E I N M A R Y L A N D
