Berlin

Berlin

Museum Night & Day

80 museums in 1 weekend

Sports in Berlin All the action

April - May 2014

Maps Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Events Hotels

N°68 - €1.75

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April - May 2014 3 facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket

Contents

E S S E N T I A LC I T Y G U I D E S

Berlin Friedrichshain 47

Worker’s paradise, student’s playground

Berlin Kreuzberg 50

Immigrants, anarchists and hipsters

City Tours 58

Guided walks, bike rides and drives

River Tours 59

Sailing down the Spree

Maps & IndexStreet register 60

City map 61-63

Public transport map 64-65

Index 66

Transport 5

Getting around by S&U

Sports in Berlin 6

All about Berlin’s top teams

Basics 8

Essential travel tips

Culture & Events 9Roll up for theatre, shows and cinema

Berlin Mitte 18

The delights of the city centre

Berlin Charlottenburg & The West 32

Genteel western Berlin

Berlin Prenzlauer Berg 43

The gentrifi ed north

BERLIN BOXES

Scattered throughout the guide you’ll fi nd boxes with more information about these topics:

Berlin in books 23Cold War Berlin 28Erasmus Student Network 8Hotels in Berlin 38Third Reich Berlin 27

SYMBOL KEY

T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled

V Home delivery E Live music

N No credit cards M Nearest S/U-Bahn station

B Outside seating G Non-smoking room

S Take away R Internet

W Wi-Fi

Additional symbols for hotels

P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted

L Guarded parking H Conference facilities

F Fitness centre K Restaurant

D Sauna C Swimming pool

Dinner price guideThe number of euro symbols in our restaurant, café and nightlife reviews indicates the approximate price level based on a main course with a glass of wine.

€€€€ Expensive; more than €30 per person.

€€€ Not cheap; €20-30 per person.

€€ Middling; from €10-20 per person.

€ Cheap; less than €10 per person.

Mon-Fri 12:00-24:00Sat, Sun, Holidays 10:00-24:00

Tel. 030-881 70 40Bleibtreustr. 48a, Berlin-Charlottenburg

www.zillemarkt.de

Traditional German cuisine

Over 100 years ofcomfort and quality

ZillemarktCaféhaus • Restaurant

J J

4 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com April - May 2014 5 facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket

Foreword TransportOne of Berlin’s best cultural events takes place this spring, when around 100 museums open their doors till late at night to welcome thousands of visitors with special exhibitions, tours, children’s programmes, live music and more. This year it is planned for 17 May, the day before the International Museum Day. See page 14 for all details.

If you prefer daytime activities there are still many excellent museum and gallery exhibitions this season, including the hit David Bowie retrospective at the Martin-Gropius-Bau; see the Events pages from p. 9 for more.

As the cultural season steams ahead, the sports season is slowly winding down; several of Berlin’s teams are in playoff s for the national trophies at the moment, and it’s worth watching the Alba basketball team and the Berlin Volleys as they try to defend their titles. See page 6 for all sports-related action from Berlin’s six top teams.

Whatever you do this spring, don’t hesitate to email us your comments and suggestions at [email protected]. Enjoy Berlin.

CZECHREPUBLIC

SOUTHAFRICA

POLAND

ROMANIAHUNGARY

SERBIABOSNIA

ALBANIA

GREECE

FYR MACEDONIA

BULGARIAMONTENEGRO

ITALYCROATIASLOVENIA

AUSTRIA

SWITZERLAND

UKRAINE

GEORGIA

BELARUS

LITHUANIA

LATVIA

ESTONIA

RUSSIA

GERMANYBELGIUM

NETHERLANDS

NORTHERNIRELAND

IRELAND

COVER STORY

Spring blossoms frame the ‘disco ball’ halfway up Berlin’s 368-metre high Fernsehturm TV tower. Germany’s highest structure was built on the site of Berlin’s historic old town by the GDR authorities in the late 1960s; a wonderful way of clearly marking their territory and showing off their technical prowess.

ABOUT IYP

It’s now 22 years since we published the fi rst In Your Pocket guide - to Vilnius in Lithuania - in which time we have grown to become the largest publisher of locally produced city guides in Europe. We now cover more than 100 cities across the continent (with Gudauri, in Georgia, the latest city to be pocketed) and the number of concise, witty, well-written and downright indispensable In Your Pocket guides published each year is approaching fi ve million. We will be expanding even further this year, with the publication of a guide to Johannesburg: our fi rst outside of Europe.

To keep up to date with all that’s new at In Your Pocket, like us on Facebook (facebook.com/inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/inyourpocket).

PublisherIn Your Pocket GmbHAxel-Springer-Straße 3910969 BerlinTel: +49 30 27 90 79 81Fax: +49 30 24 04 73 [email protected]

ISSN 1611-9037

Printed by Druckteam GbR Berlin.Circulation 20,000 copies bimonthly

The public transport map is used under license no. BVG-0079.11.

Editorial Editors Jeroen van Marle, Phillippe Krüger, Christina KnightResearch Cecilia Engvall, Layout Tomáš Haman, Photos Jeroen van Marle (JvM), Emilie Guilland (EG)Maps Kartographie Eichner, Cover © Violetta Honkisz | Dreamstime.com

Sales & Circulation General Manager Stephan KrämerProduction Manager Philippe KrügerAccounting Martin Wollenhaupt Advertising Managers Philippe Krüger, CoCoMedia ([email protected])

Copyright notice & Editor’s noteText and photos (unless otherwise stated) copyright pocket publishing GmbH. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without written permission from the copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).The editorial content of In Your pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. We have made every eff ort to ensure the accuracy of all information and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.

Although Berlin is lodged in the middle of the great empty vastness of northeast Germany, it’s very well connected to the rest of civilisation by bus, train, Autobahn and air. Once in Berlin, you’ll wish that your home town had such good public transport.

PUBLIC TRANSPORTBerlin’s integrated network of U-Bahn (Untergrundbahn, underground trains), bus, and Straßenbahn (trams) run by BVG and S-Bahn and RE (Schnellbahn and regional commuter trains run by DB) usually works like a dream. Just remember the number or colour and end station of the line you want to use, and you’ll be navigating the labyrinth-like stations like a local.Most S/U-Bahn trains, buses and trams run every 5-15 minutes during the day. M buses and trams run every half hour at night; U-Bahn trains run every 15 minutes on weekend nights, with N buses following their routes every half hour (starting from Hackescher Markt) on weekday nights.Tickets can be used on all BVG, S-Bahn and local RE train services. Vending machines have instructions in English and accept coins, often bank notes and cards too. Berlin’s AB travel zone contains nearly everything; you’ll only need an ABC-ticket for Potsdam and Schoenefeld airport.With an Einzelfahrschein ticket (AB-zone €2,60, ABC €3,20) you can travel one-way for up to two hours with unlimited transfers; it’s cheaper to buy four tickets at once (Vier-Fahrten-Karte, €8,80). Buy a €1,50 Kurzstrecke (short

distance) ticket if you want to travel up to three S/U-Bahn stops, or up to six stops by bus or tram. If you anticipate a lot of travelling, get the Tageskarte (day ticket, valid until 03:00 the next morning; €6,70) or the seven-day pass (€28,80). Groups of up to fi ve people are best off with a Kleingruppenkarte (group day ticket, €16,20). The multi-day Berlin Welcomecard (€18,50-38,50) is valid for transport and some attractions.Before boarding the S- or U-Bahn, always validate your ticket by punching it in the yellow or red machines near the end of the platforms. On buses and trams, the machines are on board. Public transport uses the honour system, and there are regular checks by uniformed and plainclothes inspectors. If you are caught without a valid ticket you’ll be fi ned €40 on the spot.

BVGThe Berliner Verkehrsbetriebe run the U-Bahn, buses and trams. Their handy trip planner can be found at www.fahrinfo-berlin.de.Qtel. +49 30 194 49, [email protected], www.bvg.de.

TAXISCITY FUNKQtel. +49 30 21 02 02, www.cityfunk.de.

FUNK TAXI BERLINQtel. +49 30 26 10 26, www.taxifunkberlin.de.

TAXI FUNKQtel. +49 30 44 33 22, www.taxi443322.de.

A lot of Berlin for little money.

Tick off all the city’s highlights with a day ticket.

www.BVG.de/dayticket · Call centre 030 19 44 9

Whatever you have planned, with the day saver you can discover all the highlights of Berlin until 3 a.m. the following day. You can fi nd more information about all the fares available on public transport at BVG.de

39L_BVG_Tageskarte_Touristen_engl_IYP_124x90.indd 1 02.05.12 13:25


Sports in BerlinSports in Berlin

Berlin is without a doubt the German capital of sports - the city has no less than six professional sports teams, playing fi ve exciting spectator sports: Hertha BSC and FC Union play football, the Eisbären is an ace ice hockey team, Alba is Berlin’s renowned basketball club, the Füchse play handball, and volleyball is taken care of by the BR Volleys. Their home matches attract huge numbers of visitors to Berlin’s stadiums; last season alone 2,4 million tickets were sold for their events. In addition to this, Berlin’s streets regularly host huge sports events such as the public viewing festivals during major sports events abroad, and the city also hosts countless amateur sports matches. Despite being rivals, Berlin’s six professional sports teams have recently started collaborating to improve the circumstances for professional sports in Berlin,

promoting Berlin’s image as an international sports event destination. The home matches of Berlin’s pro teams are easy to visit: you don’t need to understand German to be able to follow a match and unlike in other European countries, sports matches in Germany are quite peaceful events, meaning it’s no problem to bring the whole family to the stadium for an afternoon or evening of fun. Finding out about which matches are playing where can be problematic for visitors however as the club websites are not all available in English, and some make it diffi cult to fi nd the upcoming playing dates. In the club details here we have listed all home matches for the following months, though always keep an eye on the club websites for changes or additional matches. The excellent English-language ticket booking site www.eventimsports.de sells tickets for all matches. Berlin’s ‘other’ football team, 1 FC Union, was formed in 1966 in the former East Berlin, and always has been a special kind of club. They were the underfunded rivals of the Stasi-sponsored Dynamo club during the GDR era, and since German reunifi cation they’ve had fi nancial problems that were creatively solved by participation of the loyal fanbase; for example their Alte Försterei stadium was renovated by thousands of fans that put in many hours of work. They like to stand, so the 22,000-capacity stadium has less than 4000 seats. Also unique is the tradition of singing Christmas carols by candlelight in the stadium - with about 17,000 fans showing up to belt out ‘Stille Nacht’.Enjoy cheering for Berlin!

ALBA BERLIN (BASKETBALL)Also known as the Albatrosse, Berlin’s basketball club is Ger-many’s most successful, and has the largest fanbase; home matches easily attract 10,000 spectators. The current team’s average height is an impressive 1,98m. Since going pro in 1991,

Alba has won the German League 8 times and the Ger-man Cup 7 times (including 2013), and was also the fi rst German team to win an international title with the 1995 Korac Cup. The club is well known for it’s impres-sive youth and school programme. The Alba website is helpfully partially in English. QI-4, Mildred-Har-nack-Straße (O2 World), Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer Straße, tel. +49 1805 57 00 11, www.albaberlin.de. Tickets €8-65.

See Alba slam-dunk their way to victory at their home O2 World stadium on the following dates.

5 Apr, 19:00: Rasta Vechta11 Apr, 20:00: Telekom Baskets Bonn20 Apr, 20:00: Artland Dragons27 Apr, 17:00: S.Oliver Baskets Würzburg1 May, 15:00: Fraport Skyliners Frankfurt

BR VOLLEYS (VOLLEYBALL)

Berlin’s professional volleyball team originates in the western district of Charlottenburg, but plays home matches at the Max-Schmeling-Halle in Prenzlauer Berg. The BR Volleys have been particularly successful since the late 1990s, winning the German Bundesliga title fi ve times, including in 2013 under trainer Mark Lebedew - during that fi nal over 8,500 spectators were present, breaking the national record for match attendance.

The BR Volleys are competing for this years national title, with the semifi nals and fi nals coming up in April; keep an eye on the website for dates and times.QAm Falkplatz (Max-Schmeling-Halle), Prenzlauer Berg, tel. +49 1806 99 11 12, www.berlin-recycling-volleys.de. Tickets €13-16.

EISBÄREN BERLIN (ICE HOCKEY)Originating in 1953 in East Germany’s Dynamo sports club, the ‘polar bears’ is Berlin’s popular professional ice hockey team. They have won the national Deutsche Eishockey Liga 7 times, more than any other team, most recently in 2013 under Canadian

coach Jeff Tomlinson. They also bagged the European Trophy in 2010; unfortunately they were not as lucky in the 2013/2014 season. But their home matches at the O2 Stadium are true family fests, with plenty of young fans packing the seats, and a festive, good-humoured atmosphere.

The Eisbären season has ended and there are no upcoming home games planned. The matches continue in August when the Champions Hockey League kicks off .QI-4, Mildred-Harnack-Straße (O2 World), Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer Straße, tel. +49 30 97 18 40 40, www.eisbaeren.de. Tickets €18-46.

FC UNION BERLIN (FOOTBALL)FC Union is the work-ing man’s football team for Berlin, orig-inating in East Berlin in 1966 and a feared

counterpart for the GDR’s state-infl uenced Dynamo club. Union is still fi ercely independent, based in their charming An der Alten Försterei stadium. The club has resisted all commercialism, with a club anthem sung by punkrock legend Nina Hagen, and a stadium uniquely partly owned by passionate fans. Nicknamed Eisern Union (iron union), it had a tough time in the 1990s, but has had more success in the national com-petitions since the early 2000s. QAn der Wuhlheide 263 (Stadion An der Alten Försterei), Köpenick, MS Köpenick, tel. +49 30 656 68 80, www.fc-union-berlin.de. Tickets €14-43.

These are Union’s next home games; see their website for match dates that were not published at time of research.

11 Apr, 18:30: 1. FC Köln28 Apr, 20:15: 1. FC Kaiserslautern11 May, 13:30: TSV 1860 München

FÜCHSE BERLIN (HANDBALL)“The foxes’, Berlin’s handball team, is part of an old West Berlin sports club, and now plays home matches in Prenzlauer Berg’s famous Max-Schmel-ing-Halle, named after the German boxing legend who was world champion heavyweight

between 1930-32. The Füchse compete in Germany’s Handball Liga and the European Champions League.

The Füchse play home on the following dates. See their website for match dates that were not published at time of research. QG-1, Am Falkplatz (Max-Schmeling-Halle), Prenzlauer Berg, MS/U Schönhauser Allee, tel. +49 30 44 30 44 30, www.fuechse-berlin.de. Tickets €12-50.

20 Apr, 17:15: VfL Gummersbach4 May, 17:15: TuS N-Lübbecke21 May, 19:00: Bergischer HC

HERTHA BSC (FOOTBALL)

Berlin’s main football team plays home matches at the impressive Olympiastadion, Germany’s second largest stadium which was built for the 1936 Olympic Games and renovated for the 2006 World Cup. Hertha competes in the national Bundesliga and internationally in the UEFA Cup and Uefa Championships League. Hertha dates back to 1892 and is know as the ‘Alte Dame’, the old dame, witnessing its glory years between 1926 and 1931 when it reached the German Championship fi nals 6 times, winning it twice. Nowadays Hertha’s fortunes are mixed, but the fan base remains loyal. QOlympischer Platz 3 (Olympiastadion), Charlottenburg, MS5 Olympiastadion, tel. +49 1805 18 92 00, www.herthabsc.de. Tickets €15-89.

Hertha’s upcoming home matches are listed here; the website has last-minute additions:6 Apr, 17:30: TSG Hoff enheim26 Apr, 15:30: Eintracht Braunschweig10 May, 15:30: Borussia Dortmund

© www.union-foto-hupe.de


Culture & EventsBasics

BASIC DATA

Population: Germany: 81,751,602; Berlin: 3,460,725Longest river in Germany: Rhine, 1319km. The Spree is 403km.Highest point of Germany: Zugspitze, 2962mHighest point of Berlin: Teufelsberg, 114mHighest natural point of Berlin: Victoriapark Kreuzberg, 66mBerlin’s territory: 900 square kilometers

DRINKS & ALCOHOLGermans like their beer, drinking about 107 litres per capita per year (down from 136 litres 15 years ago). Unfortunately Berlin’s local brew, the slightly sour Berliner Weiße, is only real-ly palatable ‘mit Schuss’, with a shot of sweet fruit sirup. Cock-tails and long drinks of varying quality and price are available in a multitude of places. Non-alcoholic drinks often sipped in Berlin include Apfelschorle, a refreshing mix of apple juice and sparkling water, and Club-Mate (‘kloob mah-tea’) ice tea, made with extract of the South American maté plant, caff eine and tannins, and is popular with local hipsters as it comes in a screw top bottle so you can hiply tote it around (or drink to just below the top label and top it up with wodka).

CRIME & SAFETYBerlin is a relatively calm and safe place. Instances of petty crimes are low compared to other Western European cap-itals, though you shoulds still always keep an eye on your valuables and never leave bags, wallets and mobile phones unattended. Just like anywhere else, be careful when walk-ing in unlit streets late at night. Race-related hassles seldom occur in Berlin’s touristed central areas.

ELECTRICITYElectrical current in Germany is 220v AC, 50 Hz via stand-ard European round, two-pin sockets. Converters can be bought at the airport and large electronics shops, and many hotels will have them at the front desk too.

MONEYGermany uses the euro (€). Banknotes come in denom-inations of €5, €10, €20, €50, €100, €200 and €500. Coins, whose design depends on in which country they were minted, come in denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 cents and €1 and €2. Credit and debit card payment is possible in a wide range of shops, restaurants and nightlife venues, though always have cash on you for small payments just in case. This guide indicates which places do not accept plastic. ATMs can be found everywhere; those that charge for transactions clearly indicate the fee during the process. Exchange offi ces can be found at the major train stations.

VISAS AND ENTRY FORMALITIESEU citizens can stay in Germany as long as they like, though registration at a Bürgeramt offi ce is offi cially required for stays more than a few months. Citizens of Australia, Canada, Hong Kong, Japan, Malaysia, New Zealand, Mexico USA and a few others can enter Germany without a visa for a maximum of 90 days in any six month period. All other nationals need to apply for a German visa in advance. Note that there’s no passport control between Germany and the other 14 European ‘Schen-gen’ countries, and visas to any of these are valid for travel in Germany too. All visitors need a passport that is valid for at least fourth months from the date of arrival; EU citizens can enter with a valid EU identity card too. Check the MFA website for the latest immigration details: www.auswaertiges-amt.de.

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ERASMUS STUDENT NETWORK

How do international students get to meet locals and the city during an academic exchange? The best way to do it is via the Erasmus Student Network (ESN), one of the biggest interdisciplinary student associations in Europe. It was developed to help internationals during their stay abroad. ESN is present in more than 430 Higher Education Institutions in 36 countries. The closest section to Berlin is the section in Potsdam, where more than 20 volunteers care for you. For information, see potsdam.esngermany.org or www.facebook.com/esn.lei.potsdam.

Berlin is blessed with a large number of quality theatres and halls, top-quality artists and relatively cheap tickets - and an annual cultural budget of over €900 million to fund it all. Sports lovers can choose from a wide variety of matches played year-round.

OPERA & CLASSICAL MUSIC KOMISCHE OPERStarting off as the Theater Unter den Linden in 1892, the building’s monumental neo-baroque main hall survived wartime bombing, and reopened in 1947. It shows classic music, ballet and opera pieces. Translations in English are shown on a screen on the seat in front of you.QF-3, Behrenstraße 55, Mitte, MU Französische Straße, tel. +49 30 20 26 00, www.komische-oper-berlin.de. Tickets €9-150.

KONZERTHAUS BERLINTogether with the Deutscher and Französischer Dom churches, the Konzerthaus forms Berlin’s most spectacular architectural ensemble. Built by Friedrich Schinkel in 1821, it was badly damaged in the war and only reopened as a concert hall in 1984. The Berliner Sinfonie-Orchester plays at the venue.QF-3, Gendarmenmarkt 2, Mitte, MU Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 203 09 21 01, www.konzerthaus.de. Tickets €10-99.

STAATSOPER IM SCHILLERTHEATERThe venue for Daniel Barenboim’s award-winning Staatskapelle orchestra. Temporarily housed in the Schillertheater until renovations of their grand theatre on Unter den Linden are completed in 2014.QC-3, Bismarckstraße 110, Charlottenburg, MU Ernst-Reuter-Platz, tel. +49 30 20 35 45 55, www.staatsoper-berlin.org. Tickets €14-220.

SHOWSThere’s always something on in Berlin; these venues often have revue-style shows suitable for a foreign audience. The prices listed here indicate the cost of regular tickets, which may fl uctuate depending on the show or day of the week.

ADMIRALSPALASTThis former army bathhouse was famous for its cabaret, operetta house, spa and brothel in Berlin’s roaring 20s. Hitler cleaned up their acts in the 1930s, installing a private box so that he could watch his favourite operetta ‘The Merry Widow’, and Brecht tried out his new theatre here from the 1950s. With several theatres, it now puts on plays, concerts and musicals.QF-3, Friedrichstraße 101, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstraße, tel. +49 30 47 99 74 99, www.admiralspalast.de. Shows Tue-Sun 20:00. Tickets €21-79.

BERLINER RESIDENZ KONZERTEThe Berliner Residenz Orchestra plays famous Baroque-era works by candlelight, with musicians in period costumes - a unique opportunity to get a good idea of what it was like to attend a party in the 18th century. Guests can combine the concert with a tour of Charlottenburg

CINEMAS

Foreign fi lm off erings in German cinemas are often dubbed so check www.critic.de/ov-movies-berlin or look in listings magazines like Tip and Zitty, for subtitled fi lms; these are marked in with OmU or OmengU (original version with German/English subtitles) and OF or OV (original version); DF means German version.

BABYLON MITTEA 1920s fi lmhouse with a great program, but beware of dubbed fi lms. The building itself is a example of New Objectivity. Occasionaly there are screenings of silent fi lms accompanied by the 1929 organ.QG-2, Rosa-Luxemburg-Straße 30, Mitte, MU Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz, tel. +49 30 242 59 69, www.babylonberlin.de. Tickets €7.

CENTRAL KINOArt-house fi lms and mini fi lm fests take place in this small, but comfy cinema at the very back of a scruff y courtyard.QG-2, Rosenthaler Straße 39, Mitte, MS Hackerscher Markt, tel. +49 30 28 59 99 73, www.kino-central.de. Tickets €6,50, Tue, Wed €5,50.

CINESTAR IMAX & ORIGINALCineStar IMAX has blockbuster fi lms and documentaries in English on the biggest screen in town, featuring IMAX quality of projection and sound. The CineStar Original cinema has Germany’s widest range of Hollywood and arthouse movies in their original English version.QE-4, Potsdamer Straße 4, Tiergarten (Sony Center), MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 26 06 64 00, www.cinestar.de. Tickets €6-13.

HACKESCHE HÖFEMainly shows foreign fi lms in their original language.QG-2, Rosenthaler Straße 40, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 283 46 03, www.hackesche-hoefe.org. Tickets €8; Mon, Tue €6,50.

FILM FESTIVALSApart from the huge Berlinale fi lm festival in February, Berlin has over 40 smaller international fi lm festivals throughout the year, often focused on a country or theme.

9-16 April: Achtung Berlin, various cinemas, www.achtungberlin.de24-30 April: FilmPOLSKA, various cinemas, www.fi lmpolska.de30 March - 13 April: Jewish Film Festival, various cinemas, www.jff b.de7-11 May: Black International Cinema, Rathaus Schöneberg, www.black-international-cinema.com29 May - 1 June: Berlin Documentary Forum, HKW, www.hkw.de


Culture & EventsCulture & Events

FRIEDRICHSTADT-PALASTNo one does over-the-top better than the producers and long-legged dancers and acrobats of Friedrichstadtpalast. This venue normally puts on the glitziest, biggest revues in town.QF-3, Friedrichstraße 107, Mitte, MU Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49 30 23 26 23 26, www.show-palace.eu. Tickets €18-106.

HINTERM HORIZONTThe musical based on the songs of German rock legend Udo Lindenberg is a hit with the locals, and using the free portable translator device (book in advance), international visitors can follow the spoken scenes too. ‘Behind the horizon’ is an East-West love story set in Berlin: a West German rock singer falls for an East Berlin beauty, who spies on him for the Stasi in order to save her brother. Years later, in a reunited Germany, they piece

THE BERLIN-MUSICALWITH HITS BY UDO LINDENBERG.

www.musicals.de

PRESENTED BY STAGE ENTERTA INMENT IN

COOPER AT ION WITH ST. PAUL I THE ATER

IF YOU HAVEN’T SEEN IT YOU HAVEN’T SEEN BERLIN.

Stage Theater am Potsdamer Platz

together their history.QE-4, Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 1 (Stage Theater am Potsdamer Platz), MPotsdamer Platz, tel. +49 1805 44 44, www.stage-entertainment.de. Shows 19:00, Fri 20:00, Sat 15:30, 20:00, Sun 14:30. Mon closed. Tickets €38-97.

TIPI AM KANZLERAMTContinuing a tradition that started a century ago in Berlin, the Tipi team wine, dine and entertain guests for an evening in their elegant year-round tent in Tiergarten park. Before the show starts, gourmet food is served. Then it’s over to the artists featured that night to entertain the audience.QE-3, Große Querallee, Tiergarten, MU Bundestag, tel. +49 30 39 06 65 50, www.tipi-am-kanzleramt.de. Shows 20:00, Sun 19:00. Tickets €15-45.

WINTERGARTEN VARIÉTÉOne of Berlin’s famed variety theatres was revived here as a dinner theater. Seated around tables, you’ll enjoy a show with acrobats, magicians, clowns, jugglers and more. Before the show, waiters take orders for meals which are served during the break. New shows are put on several times per year.QE-4, Potsdamer Straße 96, Tiergarten, MU Kurfürstenstraße, tel. +49 30 58 84 33, www.wintergarten-berlin.de. Shows Wed-Sat 20:00, Sun 18:00. Tickets €25-60.

THEATRE, MUSIC & DANCEBerlin has dozens of venues for performances. There’s lots of great theatre, but most of it is German-language; it’s get-ting better, with English plays or surtitles in some theatres.Berlin is the world capital of contemporary dance; look for shows by Sasha Waltz, perhaps the best choreographer around. The Staatsballett Berlin is the main classic dance company. Tanzraumberlin magazine (www.tanzraumberlin.de), available at the venues, lists all dance events.

ENGLISH THEATRE BERLINBerlin residents, whether native English speakers or not, come to this theatre for the edgy programming on the little black box’s stage.QF-5, Fidicinstraße 40, Kreuzberg, MU Platz der Luftbrücke, tel. +49 30 691 12 11, [email protected], www.etberlin.de. Tickets €14-18.

HALLE TANZBÜHNEA monumental school gym, used for excellent modern dance productions by the Toula Limnaios company.QG-1, Eberswalder Straße 10-11, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49 30 44 04 42 92, www.halle-tanz-berlin.de. Tickets €15.

HEBBEL AM UFER (HAU)Three small theatres (the others at Stresemannstraße 29 and Tempelhofer Ufer 10) perform experimental theatre (often in English or mute) and dance.QF-4, Hallesches Ufer 32, Kreuzberg, MU Hallesches Tor, tel. +49 30 259 00 40, www.hebbel-am-ufer.de. Tickets €11-18.

CIRQUE DU SOLEIL & NEW KIDS

The famous Cirque du Soleil artists are in Berlin again, this time with their fascinating Quidam show. Playing fi ve shows in the O2 Stadium between 7 and 10 May, this production again has an amazing

mix of acrobatics, costumes and live music. Human imagination, worries and wishes are at the centre of Quidam; a boy called Zoe is bored and ignored by his parents, and escapes into a world of fantasy where he encounters all kinds of characters.

New Kids On The Block also make a return to Berlin, with a concert planned at the Tempodrom on 21 May. Back on track after a 15 year lapse, they play hits from the 1990s as well as new

material, enrapturing both old and new fans.

castle or a trip on the river Spree, and dinner amidst hundreds of candles.QB-3, Spandauer Damm 22-24, Charlottenburg, MS Westend, tel. +49 30 526 81 96 96, www.concerts-berlin.com. Dinner 18:00, concert 20:30. Tickets €29-79.

BLUE MAN GROUPThe (quite literally) Blue Man Group has been wowing audiences for years in their Bluemax Theatre. The visually and musically powerful show is suitable for foreigners as it has little spoken German, and now has been thoroughly revamped, with many new sketches and elements.QE-4, Marlene Dietrich Platz 4, Mitte, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 1805 44 44, www.bluemangroup.de. Shows Tue, Fri 21:00; Wed, Thu, Sat 18:00, 21:00; Sun 18:00. Tickets from €69.

TICKETS: 030 / 479 974 77 | www.semmel.de

21.05.2014 Tempodrom 20:00 Uhr 22.05.2014 20:00 Uhr

07.05. – 11.05.14 BERLIN / O2 WORLD

WINTERGARTEN: BREAKIN’ MOZART

The current Wintergarten show “Breakin’ Mozart” combines variety performances and classical music, this time adding the unlikely element of breakdancing by the award-winning DDC Company group. Besides whirling dance shows, there’s diabolo wizardry, partner acrobatics, hand-on-hand acrobatics, Chinese poles and human beatboxer Robeat. Mozart’s music is performed live in both orchestra versions and modern hip hop adaptations; the famous coloratura arias from “The Magic Flute” are performed live against the backdrop of fi reworks, acrobatics and breakdance.

WINTERGARTEN VARIÉTÉQPotsdamer Straße 96, Tiergarten, MU Kurfürstenstraße, tel. +49 30 58 84 33, www.wintergarten-berlin.de. Shows Wed-Sat 20:00, Sun 18:00.

© Jonathan F. Kromer

ONE FOR ALLMAY 17, 2014EXPLORE 80 MUSEUMS IN BERLIN WITH ONE TICKET.

PROGRAM: WWW.LANGE-NACHT-DER-MUSEEN.DE TICKETS: WWW.MUSEUMSPORTAL-BERLIN.DE

LONG NIGHT OF MUSEUMSBERLIN 2014


Culture & EventsCulture & Events KOOKABURRALaughing matters at Berlin’s premier comedy club, which has English-language stand-up comedy with Kim Eustace every fi rst Tuesday of the month, the interactive ComedySportz show every second Tue & Sat, burlesque with Jack Woodhead every third Tue & Sat and an open mic every fi rst Sat.QG-2, Schönhauser Allee 184, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz, tel. +49 30 48 62 31 86, www.comedyclub.de. Tickets €8-10.

RADIALSYSTEM VA fantastic theatre, dance and music venue in an old pumping station along the Spree river. There’s a restaurant and café too.QH-4, Holzmarktstraße 33, Friedrichshain, MS Ostbahnhof, tel. +49 30 288 78 85 88, www.radialsystem.de. Tickets €5-41.

CLASSICAL MUSIC9 April, 20:00 PHGrigory Sokolov (piano)Works by Chopin

10 April, 20:00 PHDeutsches Symphonie-Orchester BerlinConductor: David Afkham; Works by Webern, Brahms, and Shostakovitch

11 April, 20:00 PHWiener PhilharmonikerConductor: Daniel Barenboim; Works by Mozart

19 April, 16:00 PHMartha Argerich, Daniel Barenboim (piano)Works by Mozart, Schubert, and Stravinsky

19 April, 20:00 PHDeutsches Symphonie-Orchester Berlin, Lars Vogt (piano)Conductor: Tugan Sokhiev; Works by Beethoven and Prokofi ev

20 & 21 April, 20:00 PHDas Sinfonie Orchester BerlinConductor: Igor Budinstein; Works by de Falla, Chabrier, and Saint-Saëns

22 April, 20:00 PHDeutsches Kammerorchester BerlinConductor: Gabriel Adorján; Works by Schnittke, Bach, and Shostakovitch

22 April, 20:00 KHAnna Vinnitskaya (piano)Works by Debussy, Prokofi ev, and Chopin

26 April, 20:00 PHBerliner PhilharmonikerConductor: Sir Simon Rattle; Giacomo Puccini - Manon Lescaut (conzertante)

30 April, 20:00 PHYuja Wang (piano)Works by Prokofj ew, Chopin, Kapustine, and Stravinsky

1 May, 20:00 PHDas Sinfonie Orchester BerlinConductor: Stanley Dodds; Wroks by Rimsky-Korsakow, Dvořák, and Tchaikovsky

2 May, 20:00 PHRolando Villazón (tenor)Works by Mozart

GDR PHOTOGRAPHY

‘Colour for the Republic’, from 21 March – 31 August. In the GDR, colour photography was given a very important role to play in conveying socialist ideology. It was supposed to exude – especially in the 1960s – a spirit of optimism and new beginning and to present the GDR as a modern state. The ‘Colour for the Republic’ exhibition off ers insight into the history of the origin and impact of commissioned photography and a critical refl ection on its manifestation. The core of the presentation comes from the extensive archives of two photojournalists, Martin Schmidt (born in 1925) and Kurt Schwarzer (1927-2012), which are now preserved in the collection of the German Historical Museum. As freelance photographers, Martin Schmidt and Kurt Schwarzer worked on behalf of various magazines, but they were also commissioned by mass organisations such as the Free German Trade Union Federation (FDGB) and by diff erent companies. In keeping with their mandate – to present the positive aspects of the GDR for internal and external consumption – the photographers took pictures that show facets of a fulfi lled life and work routine in Socialism.

DEUTSCHES HISTORISCHES MUSEUMQUnter den Linden 2, Mitte, MHackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 20 30 40, www.dhm.de. Open daily 10:00 - 18:00.

ASK THE CONCIERGE

Berlin’s top hotels all have concierges that are there to make the guest’s lives easier. They can inform you about current events, book tickets, make restaurant reservations and hand out copies of Berlin In Your Pocket, transport maps, and brochures. Concierges can be recognised by the crossed golden keys on the lapels of their jackets.

Martin Schmidt, Traktoristin, around 1965 © Stiftung Deutsches Historisches Museum

Events

MICROSOFT CENTER

The very fi rst publicly accessible Microsoft Center in the world was opened on Berlin’s Unter den Linden boulevard last year. The historical 1902 Carlton Hotel building with its great architectural details (try to spot the cats and mice around the side door!) is now the most plugged-in building in the street. The Digital Eatery café on the ground fl oor (see the review elsewhere in this guide) has more than just good food and drinks – visitors can use the free wifi , recharge their devices and try out a range of Microsoft products, both hardware and software, with staff at hand to answer questions. The atrium behind the café is used for meetings, performances and parties, while upstairs corporate clients are wowed in the meeting room with 360° video walls. Microsoft also has offi ces and a ‘Microsoft Ventures Accelerator’ for startups in the building.

MICROSOFT CENTER BERLINQUnter den Linden 17, Mitte, tel. +49 30 39 09 70, www.microsoft-berlin.de. Café open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00.

EVENT TICKETS

Tickets can be purchased at the venues, via hotel concierges, at ticket offi ces (also in major department stores) and online.

EVENTIM An online booking service with event tickets mailed or available for home printing.Qtel. +49 180 557 00 70, www.eventim.de.

HEKTICKET Ticket shops and online sales (for home printing, pick-up or mailing). Reduced same-day tickets for shows and attractions are available after 14:00. Also at Karl-Liebknecht-Straße 13, Mitte.QC-4, Harden-bergstraße 29d, Charlottenburg, MS/U Zoologis-cher Garten, tel. +49 30 230 99 30, www.hekticket.de. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 14:00 - 18:00.

KOKA 36 Kreuzberg’s Konzertkasse has tickets in their shop and online (German only), for mailing and pick-up.QH-4, Oranienstraße 29, Kreuzberg, MU Gör-litzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 61 10 13 13, www.koka36.de. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.

PAPAGENA Regular and reduced price tickets for classical music, opera and theatre. Call for English-lan-guage service.Qtel. +49 30 47 99 74 44, www.khs.papagena.de.

THE NEXT GENERATION OF GAMING EVENTS! CONNECTING GAMES CULTURE, BUSINESS

& TECHNOLOGY

APRIL 8-13, 2014

t a l e n t s D

WWW.GAMESWEEKBERLIN.COM

GAMESWEEK

The annual International Games Week Berlin, Europe’s oldest game developers conference, will be held again from 8-13 April, when game programmers, investors and gamers from across the world meet at Cafe Moskau on Karl-Marx-Allee and several other venues. There’s the Quo Vadis conference, a matchmaking dinner, the independent video games festival, European Games Award and a talent recruitment event. For more infor-mation see www.internationalgamesweekberlin.com.


Culture & EventsCulture & Events6 May, 20:00 PHStaatskapelle Berlin, Maurizio Pollini (piano)Conductor: Daniel Barenboim; Works by Brahms and Strauss

9 May, 20:00 PHBerliner PhilharmonikerConductor: Myung-Whun Chung; Works by von Weber, Chin, and Brahms

14 May, 20:00 PHAnne-Sophie Mutter (violin), Lambert Orkis (piano)Works by Penderecki, Mozart, Previn, and Beethoven

16 May, 20:00 PHBerliner PhilharmonikerConductor: Sir Simon Rattle; Works by Schubert, Mozart, and Bruckner

22 May, 20:00 PHRundfunk-Sinfonieorchester Berlin, Daniil Trifonov (piano)Conductor: Vassily Sinaisky; Works by Tchaikovsky and Elgar

23 May, 20:00 PHBerliner Philharmoniker, Sol Gabetta (cello)Conductor: Krzysztof Urbanski; Works by Smetana, Martinu, and Dvořák

29 May, 20:00 PHBerliner Philharmoniker, Hilary Hahn (violin)Conductor: Tugan Sokhiev; Works by Vieuxtemps and Tchaikovsky

CONCERTS9 April, 21:00 PBWhomadewho (Pop)

11 April, 20:00 KBKaiser Chiefs (Indie Rock)

13 & 14 April, 20:00 PHGregory Porter (Jazz/Soul)

24 April, 20:00 O2Justin Timberlake (Pop)

29 April, 20:00 TDEric Burdon (Rock)

The new BLUE MAN GROUP in Berlin with even more fun, even more action and simply EVEN MORE WOW:

Since their European premiere 10 years ago they have also been astounding and captivating audi-ence of all ages in Berlin. To mark this anniversary the three found-ers from New York have created a show for Berlin, the likes of which the world has never seen, combining im-pressive show elements, new songs and the popular classics. The new BLUE MAN GROUP is therefore even more intensive, even more innovative and even more interactive. Discover this indescribable dimension of live entertainment at the Stage BLUEMAX Theater am Potsdamer Platz. An absolute must for every Berliner and tourists from all over the world.

BLUE MAN GROUP, Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 4, Stage BLUEMAX Theater, Tel. +49 (0) 3871 2115 530, www.bluemangroup.de/internationalDaily shows except for on Mondays. Tickets from € 55,90.

NOW MORE WOW!BLUE MAN GROUP13 May, 20:00 TD

Pat Metheny Unity Group (Jazz)

15 May, 19:00 ZSNine Inch Nails (Industrial)

15 May, 20:00 HXManic Street Preachers (Rock)

20 May, 20:00 TDTori Amos (Singer/Songwriter)

21 May, 20:00 TDNew Kids On The Block (Pop)

22 May, 20:00 O2Charles Aznavour (Chanson)

25 May, 19:00 WBPeter Gabriel (Pop/Rock)

EXHIBITIONSUntil 21 April HBJoseph Beuys: The Secret Block for a Secret Person in IrelandGermany’s top conceptual artist Joseph Beuys has been selecting drawings from his oeuvre for a ‘block’ exhibition since 1958. In 1974 he fi rst presented 362 individual sheets in Oxford; by now the collection holds 456 drawings. The enigmatic exhibition name refers to ‘secret’ twice; once for the drawings’ secret formulations, and for a secret person – probably James Joyce.

Until 7 July MGAi Weiwei – EvidenceAi Weiwei is a megastar in the western art world. The Martin-Gropius-Bau shows the biggest single exhibition ever by the contemporary Chinese artist, with new works as well as many that have never been exhibited in Germany before. The exhibition includes conceptual art, performance, music, photography and installations. His poetry is often political, but also reveals cultural and historical references.

DALÍ EXHIBITION DISCOUNT

The high-quality catalogue of the Dali Exhibition at Potsdamer Platz has 44 pages of text about Dalí’s life and work, and details of the specifi c artworks in the exhibition, plus 40 detailed large-format illustrations.

Until 30 May 2014, readers of Berlin In Your Pocket can purchase the book for €14,95 instead of €19,95 on presentation of this guidebook (for ticket-holders of the exhibition only; may not be combined with other off ers).

AFRIKA! AFRIKA!

With 4 million enthusiastic visitors, the AFRIKA! AFRIKA! show is one of the greatest successes in international show business. Now André Heller has developed a brand new staging of AFRIKA! AFRIKA! especially for theaters and smaller halls. It combines the highlights of the large show with breathtaking performances that haven’t been seen before. Heller’s new AFRIKA! AFRIKA! is more eccentric and even more spectacular. 70 artists, 140 square metres of LED screens and well-known African musicians take the visitors on a trip to the “amazing continent”. The new AFRIKA! AFRIKA! show will play in Berlin for the last time this April. Tempodrom, Möckernstraße 10, Kreuzberg. From 18-25 April, shows at 20:00, Sat/Sun also at 15:00. Tickets €17-93. More information at www.AFRIKAAFRIKA.de.

LONG NIGHT OF MUSEUMS

Berlin’s very own Long Night of Museums, fi rst held here in 1997 and now imitated worldwide, is planned again for Saturday 17 May. From 18:00 till 02:00, some 80 museums across Berlin open their doors. There are special events, exhibitions, tours, children’s activities and music, with a big party at the end of the night. You can walk between museums or use the shuttle buses; the clusters around Checkpoint Charlie and around Lustgarten, Nikolaiviertel and Auguststraße are easy to explore on foot. There’s plenty of opportunity to take a break and have something to eat or drink, and the Lustgarten has a long dining table for eating and meeting others.

Tickets for access to all museums, the shuttle buses and use of public transport (ABC area) cost €18. Tickets also are valid for participating museums the following day, International Museums Day. See www.lange-nacht-der-museen.de for more information; tickets can be purchased from S-Bahn ticket machines, the museums and via www.museumsportal-berlin.de.

DALÍ EXHIBITION

With over 450 exhibits, the new museum and cultural highlight ‘Dalí - The Exhibition at Potsdamer Platz’ off ers the most complete overview of Dalí’s virtuous and exper-imental mastery in almost all art techniques, right here in the heart of Berlin. As Dalí once said: “Come into my brain”. In keeping with this spirit ’Surrealism for all’, visitors to Ber-lin now have the chance to discover ‘their Dalí’.

DALÍ - THE EXHIBITION AT POTSDAMER PLATZQLeipziger Platz 7, Mitte, MPotsdamer Platz, tel. +49 700 32 54 23 75 46, www.daliberlin.de. Open 12:00-20:00, Sun & holidays 10:00-20:00. Admission €11, reduced €9.

© DaliBerlin.de

Bodemuseum © Photo: Sergej Horovitz

16 Berlin In Your Pocket berlin.inyourpocket.com

Culture & EventsFrom 20 May until 10 August MGDavid Bowie - RetrospectiveAfter living here for several years in the late 1970s, David Bowie is back in Berlin. The excellent Victoria and Albert Museum exhibition travels to the Martin-Gropius-Bau for a few months this summer. The multi-media retrospective is a comprehensive audio-visual exhibition experience with plenty of music and 300 objects, including handwritten lyrics, original costumes, set designs and instruments providing insight into the versatility and well as the eventful life of this pop and style icon.

TRADE FAIRS8-13 AprilInternational Games Week Berlin 2014Information: www.gamesweekberlin.comVarious locations

WHERE TO WATCH SPORTS

KILKENNY IRISH PUBFun & football, a drink or two and a bite to eat go hand in hand. And if that’s what you’re after, the Kilkenny Irish Pub is where you fi nd it. Watch all major sport events, Champions League, Premier League, Formula One etc. on large screens, together with locals and tourists from all over the world.QG-3, Am Zwirngraben 17-20, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 283 20 84, [email protected], www.kilkenny-pub.de. Open from 12:00. EGBW

IRISH HARPJust one minute off Kurfürstendamm, the Irish Harp Pub is a haven for music and sports fans alike. Two bars, a cozy ambience, four large TVs and two big screens provide the setting for a great night out, or an afternoon full of excitement and entertainment while following international football, rugby and other sports, or playing a round of darts.QB-4, Giesebrechtstraße 15, Charlottenburg, MU Adenauerplatz, tel. +49 30 22 32 87 35, [email protected], www.harp-pub.de. Open from 10:00. €-€€. EBW

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Conductor: Donald RunniclesDirector: David AldenOpening Night on 22 May 2014 28, 31 May; 3, 6 June 2014

Deutsche Oper BerlinBismarckstraße 35, 10627 BerlinTickets and Information: +49 [30]-343 84 343, www.deutscheoperberlin.de

VENUE LIST BERLIN

AD – ADMIRALSPALAST, Friedrichstraße 101-102, tel. +49 30 47 99 74 99, www.admiralspalast.de.

CH – COLUMBIA-HALLE, Columbiadamm 13-21, tel. +49 30 698 09 80, www.columbiahalle.de.

HB – HAMBURGER BAHNHOF MUSEUM, Invalidenstraße 50-51, tel. +49 30 39 78 34 11, www.hamburgerbahnhof.de.

HX – HUXLEY’S NEUE WELT, Hasenheide 108-114, tel. +49 30 627 93 20, www.huxleysneuewelt.com.

KB – KULTURBRAUEREI, Knaackstraße 97, tel. +49 30 44 31 51 51, www.kulturbrauerei.de.

KH – KONZERTHAUS BERLIN, Gendarmenmarkt, tel. +49 30 20 30 90, www.konzerthaus.de.

MG – MARTIN-GROPIUS-BAU, Niederkirchnerstraße 7, tel. +49 30 25 48 60, www.gropiusbau.de.

MS – MAX-SCHMELING-HALLE, Am Falkplatz, tel. +49 30 44 30 45, www.max-schmeling-halle.de.

O2 – O2 WORLD, Mühlenstraße 12-30, tel. +49 30 20 60 70 80, www.o2world.de.

PB – POSTBAHNHOF, Straße der Pariser Kommune 8, tel. +49 30 69 81 28 20, www.postbahnhof.de

PH – PHILHARMONIE, Herbert-von-Karajan-Straße 1, tel. +49 30 25 48 80, www.berliner-philharmoniker.de.

TD – TEMPODROM, Möckernstraße 10, tel. +49 30 69 53 38 85, www.tempodrom.de.

WB – WALDBÜHNE, Glockenturmstraße 1, www.waldbuehne-berlin.de.

ZS – ZITADELLE SPANDAU, Am Juliusturm 64, tel. +49 30 354 94 40, www.zitadelle-spandau.de.


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Since reunifi cation, the old city centre district Mitte (meaning ‘middle’) has rightly snatched back the title of most-visited district from Charlottenburg. On and off the boulevard Unter den Linden are baroque and classical monuments to Prussian culture. The architecturally humbler but more neighbourhood-like Scheunenviertel area allows the casually chic to saunter from courtyard gallery to sidewalk café. Only traces are left of the Jewish community that lived here from the late 17th century, welcomed by the Great Elector Friedrich Wilhelm.

Between Mitte and Charlottenburg, the huge Tiergarten park began as the Great Elector’s hunting grounds in the 1600s. Traffi c passes through it, doing a dosey-doe around the Siegessäule victory column. The Straße des 17. Juni leads east to the Brandenburger Tor; just south of it are the state museums of the Kulturforum and the Potsdamer Platz district with its soaring corporate buildings.

Getting thereArrivals by plane and train usually end up at Hauptbahnhof station, central for the city but not really close to anything. S-Bahn trains from the top level link to the east and west of the city, while the fancy new two-stop U55 U-Bahn line takes sightseers straight to Brandenburger Tor.

Pocket WalkStart off at Brandenburger Tor and the Reichstag before heading south past the Holocaust memorial and Potsdamer Platz to the Topographie des Terrors exhibition and the adjacent stretch of Berlin Wall. Follow Zimmerstraße for the Stasi Exhibition and Checkpoint Charlie. Walk north along Friedrichstraße and turn right at Mohrenstraße for Gendarmenmarkt square, before ambling to Unter den Linden via Bebelplatz. Walk east past the Neue Wache and Berliner Dom, turn left into Spandauer Straße, and pass through Hackescher Markt station. Visit the Hackesche Höfe complex before walking down Oranienburger Straße for the Neue Synagoge. You can catch the S-Bahn from here back to Brandenburger Tor.

GERMAN ALPENSTUECKWiener Schnitzel with Schwabian potato salad, Maultaschen with Bavarian creme are just a few of the dishes available at Alpenstueck, a designer restaurant with a traditional twist. The chef prepares southern German and Austrian home cooking with fresh ingredients, changing the menu every three days. A feast for the eyes and the palate.QF-2, Gartenstraße 9, Mitte, MS Nordbahnhof, tel. +49 30 21 75 16 46, www.alpenstueck.de. Open 18:00 - 01:00. €€. TUGBS

HABEL WEINKULTURSet in the arches under the rumbling S-Bahn tracks and in an adjacent grand building, this excellent ‘wine brasserie’ serves delicious German and international cuisine backed up by their shop off ering a stunning selection of wines.QF-3, Luisenstraße 19, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstraße, tel. +49 30 28 09 84 84, www.wein-habel.de. Open 07:00 - 24:00. €€. UGB

JOSEPH ROTH DIELEA wonderfully cosy dark brown bar owned by the same people who run the Ave Maria religious shop, right next door to Joseph. It’s named after a prolifi c Jewish writer whose quotes decorate the walls and who lived nearby in the 1920s when this street was the beating heart of Berlin’s nightlife. A nicely-priced lunch and delicious Flammkuchen pies are served, and it’s a great place for a beer or wine after a show at the Wintergarten Varieté, opposite.QE-4, Potsdamer Straße 75, Tiergarten, MU Kurfürstenstraße, tel. +49 30 26 36 98 84, www.joseph-roth-diele.de. Open 10:00 - 24:00. Closed Sat, Sun. €. TENGBSW

KEYSER SOZEA renowned corner bar in Mitte with an unpretentious atmosphere, great food and a good mix of locals and visitors. The food is simple and good; try the famed all-day breakfast, poached Bavarian Weißwurst sausages, a Schnitzel, or the goat cheese salad.QF-2, Tucholskystraße 33, Mitte, MS Oranienburger Straße, tel. +49 30 28 59 94 89, www.keyser-soze.de. Open 08:00 - 03:00. €€. TENGBS

MUTTER HOPPEHead down the winding staircase into this restaurant in the Nikolaiviertel district. You’ll fi nd the space divided into cosy, low-ceilinged nooks with upholstered banquettes and historic photos and drawings on the painted walls. Heavy meat dishes are the meals to order here. The kitchen off ers sides not served at other German restaurants, including green beans wrapped in bacon. Make reservations; or try their sister restaurant Julchen Hoppe, a few doors further towards the Spree.QG-3, Rathausstraße 21, Mitte, MS/U Alexanderplatz, tel. +49 30 241 56 25, www.prostmahlzeit.de/mutterhoppe. Open 11:30 - 24:00. €€. TEGB

RESTAURATION 1840Located in a vaulted space under the S-Bahn tracks, this traditional Berlin restaurant designed to recall the golden 1920s serves regionally sourced international cuisine, 1840 creations, including local favourites such as Sülze (cold knuckle), Buletten (meatballs) and Currywurst sausage. There are good seasonal wines, and the bar staff can shake up a great cocktail.QG-3, Am Zwirngraben 8-10, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 24 72 74 01, [email protected], www.berlin-1840.de. Open 09:00 - 24:00. EGBW

SCHWARZWALDSTUBENBambi meets Berlin chic at the trendy Black Forest themed Schwarzwaldstuben, which has a friendly atmosphere, bedraggled animal heads mounted on the walls and heavy mix-matched furniture. Regional treats include Maultaschen (ravioli-like pockets in broth) and Schnitzel.QF-3, Tucholskystraße 48, Mitte, MU Oranienburger Straße, tel. +49 30 28 09 80 84, www.schwarzwaldstuben-berlin.com. Open 09:00 - 24:00. €€. TUNBS

ZILLE-STUBEThe name is in homage to Berlin artist Heinrich Zille, whose illustrations line the walls above upholstered banquettes and wooden banisters. Dominating the menu are typical Berlin meat dishes like Boulette, Kohlroulade (beaf-stuff ed cabbage leaves), Sauerbraten (marinated pot roast) and Rostbratwurst.QG-3, Spreeufer 3, Mitte, MU Klosterstraße, tel. +49 30 242 52 47, www.zillestube-nikolaiviertel.de. Open 12:00 - 22:00. €€. E

ZUM NUSSBAUMWhat seems a charming old restaurant is in fact a charming new restaurant. The legendary Under the Nut Tree Inn used to stand on Fischerinsel island, 200m to the southwest. When the war-ravaged area was rebuilt in the 1980s, the inn was reconstructed here. Most patrons don’t care for authenticity, and tuck into the well-priced Berlin specialities with curious translations, such as ‘brown rolls with dripping’.QG-3, Am Nussbaum 3, Mitte, MU Klosterstraße, tel. +49 30 242 30 95. Open from 12:00. €. GB

ZUR LETZTEN INSTANZBerlin’s oldest restaurant doesn’t lie on the tourist path, and maybe that’s why German leaders bring visiting heads of state here when everything in Mitte is too noisy and crowded. Mikhail Gorbachev visited in 1989, and Gerhard Schröder brought Jacques Chirac over for the Berlin specialities, including Eisbein, in 2003.QG-3, Waisenstraße 14-16, Mitte, MU Klosterstraße, tel. +49 30 242 55 28, www.zurletzteninstanz.de. Open 12:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. €€. GBS

Restaurants & Cafés

www.inyourpocket.com


Mitte Mitte

ASIAN KAMALARespectable Thai cuisine is served in a colonial atmosphere, where heavy, dark wood tables are adorned with woven placements, orchids and tall candles. The Tom Yam Gai soup is crowded with chicken and piping hot, and the curries are rich and buttery.QF-3, Oranienburger Straße 69, Mitte, MU Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49 30 283 27 97, www.kamala-thaifood.de. Open 12:00 - 23:30, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:30. €€. AB

MONSIEUR VUONGHanoi and Saigon have landed in a chic little red Vietnamese restaurant in Mitte. There are only fi ve dishes and two daily specials, but they’re so delicious you’ll be ordering a second bowl of rice to soak up the leftover sauce. After your gói

bo, try some jasmin or artichoke tea. You’ll have to fi ght the über-cool crowds for a table as Mr. Vuong doesn’t take reservations.QG-2, Alte Schönhauser Straße 46, Mitte, MU Weinmeisterstraße, tel. +49 30 99 29 69 24, www.monsieurvuong.de. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €. S

VAN LONGBest visited for the wide range of Vietnamese specialities, from all parts of the country, Van Long also has some tasty Thai options served in a modest space decorated with Vietnamese art. Try the specials such as the Cha Ca La Vong fi sh that you fi nish grilling at your table, or the Lau chay clay pot with tofu and vegetables.QReinhardtstraße 8, Mitte, MU Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49 30 28 23 570, www.van-long.de. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€.

FAST FOOD DOMCURRYElevating fast food to a gatronomic experience, the Hilton allows you to style your own currywurst using top-quality ingredients, right beside the Deutsche Dom on Gendarmenmarkt. There are several types of sausage (ostrich, eco, fi sh), sauces and bread to choose from.QF-3, Gendarmenmarkt 1 (Hilton hotel), Mitte, MU Französische Straße, tel. +49 30 202 30 44 55. Open 11:00 - 18:00. €.

FINE DINING AIGNEROne of Berlin’s best places to eat, Aigner is truly international, as its name, concept and all the old furnishings originate from a famous Viennese café that closed in the 1980s. Master chef Herbert Beltle and his team serve award-winning dishes with ingredients sourced fresh from the market.QF-3, Französische Straße 25, Mitte, MU Französiche Straße, tel. +49 30 203 75 18 50, www.aigner-gendarmenmarkt.de. Open 12:00 - 02:00. €€€. TUGBSW

BORCHARDTBorchardt didn’t have to invest much to make a good fi rst impression - the mere height of the ceiling and the building’s original tile fl oors whisper class and luxury. The money and creative energy goes into the kitchen, which comes up with a diff erent menu each day to keep its regular clientele surprised. Leave the pork to the Germans, the beef dishes here are delectable.QF-3, Französische Straße 47, Mitte, MU Französische Straße, tel. +49 30 81 88 62 62, www.borchardt-restaurant.de. Open from 11:00. €€€. GB

FACILAt the Mandala Hotel’s Michelin-starred gourmet restaurant, chef de cuisine Michael Kempf creates elegantly light fare using only fresh, local products direct from the market. The menu changes daily and has an emphasis on tasty vegetables and exotic herbs. Facil’s design is a post-modern, glass-box Asian pavilion with a large central skylight that retracts.QE-4, Potsdamer Straße 3, Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 590 05 12 34, www.facil.de.

BACK TO SCHOOL

The Die Schule restaurant in the Prenzlauer Berg district is not just a place for trying German cuisine. It’s the watering hole for adult students from all around the world who are learning German at the GLS language school, in the same complex. They’re greatly helped by the location of the school in a vibrant neighbourhood with plenty of bars, restaurants and quirky boutiques.

DIE SCHULEQKastanienallee 82, Prenzlauer Berg, tel. +49 30 780 08 95 50, www.gls-restaurant.de.

GLS LANGUAGE SCHOOLQtel. +49 30 78 00 89 27, www.gls-berlin.de.

Open . Closed Sat, Sun Open 12:00 - 15:00, 19:00 - 23:00. Closed Sat, Sun. €€€€. UGBW h

FISCHERS FRITZThe restaurant’s name comes from a tongue-twister and the light, fi sh-focused menu is for a very refi ned palate. Chef Christian Lohse has won several of the Michelin stars that appear none too oft in Germany. The German chef fi rst trained in Dijon and has since pleased gourmands such as those at The Dorchester in London and the Sultan of Brunei (as a private chef). The dining room has light woods, deep carpets and a fi replace.QF-3, Charlottenstraße 49, Mitte, MU Französische Straße, tel. +49 30 20 33 63 63, www.fi schersfritzberlin.com. Open 12:00-14:00; 18:30-23:00. €€€€. PAG hh

PARIS-MOSKAUMany train passengers rolling into Hauptbahnhof assume this lonely and unusual half-timber house from 1898 is related to the railroad, as it sits along the tracks that link Paris and Moscow, but the fi ne restaurant inside has more connections to the Mediterranean. Dishes include stuff ed quail, steak with pumpkin and pike-perch.QE-3, Alt-Moabit 141, Tiergarten, MS/U Hauptbahnhof, tel. +49 30 394 20 81, www.paris-moskau.de. Open 18:00 - open end. €€€. A

VAUIt’s easy to spell and rhymes with wow, and the latter is the word-of-mouth that has kept chef Kolja Kleeberg’s restaurant fully booked for years. Using many products from the Berlin area, Michelin-starred Kleeberg follows his mentor Josef Viehhauser’s rule: never more than three products on a plate.QF-3, Jägerstraße 54/55, Mitte, MU Französische Straße, tel. +49 30 202 97 30, www.vau-berlin.de. Open 12:00 - 14:30; 19:00-22:30. Closed Sun. €€€€. PAG h

VOXHighly-paid business travellers from New York, London, and Hamburg look quite at home in this excellent, minimalist and high-ceiling restaurant in the Grand Hyatt. Between the live jazz in the adjoining lounge and the show kitchen, it makes for a see-and-be-seen evening, so don’t drop your sushi in your lap. The Vox bar is open from 18:00 and closes when guests decide. The kitchen is open until 24:00. Breakfast on Saturday continues until 11:00 and on Sunday until 14:00.QE-4, Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 2, Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 25 53 17 02, www.berlin.grand.hyatt.com. Open 06:30 - 10:30; 12:00 - 14:30; 18:30 - 24:00. €€€. PAEGB

INDIAN AAPKALocated on a pretty street corner near Zionskirchplatz, Aapka off ers healthy vegetarian, curry and grill dishes. You can drop by for the lunch menu and on Sunday join the young Prenzl’ Berg crowd for a relaxed brunch - or drop by later for cocktails.QG-2, Kastanienallee 50, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Rosenthaler Platz, tel. +49 30 44 01 04 94, www.aapka.de. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 01:00. €€. B

INTERNATIONAL DRESSLER1920s Berlin lives on a bit here on the boulevard, between Brandenburger Tor and the Komische Oper. There’s Art Deco wooden paneling, large mirrors, and good bistro and proper restaurant meals served in a very relaxed atmosphere. Also in Charlottenburg at Ku’damm 207.QF-3, Unter den Linden 39, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstraße, tel. +49 30 204 44 22, www.restaurant-dressler.de. Open 08:00 - 01:00. €€€. B

GANYMEDStrolling along the Spree or after a show at the beloved Berliner Ensemble, stop off at Ganymed’s historical rooms for Alsatian Flammkuchen, French choucroute and beers, oysters, wines and the menu du soir. The terrace has a view of the Spree and the trains pulling into Friedrichstrasse station.QF-3, Schiff bauerdamm 5, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstraße, tel. +49 30 28 59 90 46, www.ganymed-brasserie.de. Open 12:00 - 24:00 Kitchen from 12:00 until 24:00. €€€. TUVGB

NOLA’S AM WEINBERGThis hip restaurant overlooks a sloping park. The predominantly Swiss menu lends itself to the terrace, which is perfect for pretending to be in the mountain air of St. Moritz. Breakfast is served until 16:00 and you can order meals until midnight.QG-2, Veteranenstraße 9, Mitte, MU Rosenthaler Platz, tel. +49 30 44 04 07 66, www.nola.de. Open 10:00 - 01:00. €€. TUGBS

ORANIUMJust down the street from the Neue Synagoge, Oranium is a pleasant all-day café/restaurant/bar with plenty of dark wood, a long bar and pretty lights. There are great breakfasts (served until 16:00), lunches and good-value dinner options. The menu is as international as it can get; for something special try the chicken with strawberry/chili sauce. Wash it all down with a cocktail or two.QF-3, Oranienburger Straße 33-34, Mitte, MS Oranienburger Straße, tel. +49 30 30 88 29 67, www.oranium.de. Open 09:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 03:00. €€. TUGBSW

FOOD WITH A VIEW

KÄFER DACHGARTENWhen time is money, you may as well spend it on a good meal while visiting the Reichstag dome. Make a reservation to be whisked up to your meal and a 180-degree view of eastern Berlin. German specialities are highlighted and a regional name appears in most main course listings. Last orders are taken at 21:30. Bring ID to get into the buidling.QF-3, Platz der Republik 1,Tiergarten, MS/U Brandenburger Tor, tel. +49 30 22 62 99 33, www.feinkost-kaefer.de. Open 09:00 - 10:15, 12:00-16:30, 18:30-24:00. €€€. AB

PANORAMA CAFÉThe 1930s-style café at the top of the popular Potsdamer Platz viewing point has large windows and an open terrace with great views over Berlin, and serves coff ee, cakes and other snacks.QE-4, Potsdamer Platz 1, Tiergarten, MS/U

Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 25 93 70 80, www.panoramapunkt.de. Open 11:00-19:00, Nov-Mar 11:00-17:00. Tower admission €6,50/5, family ticket €15,50.

SPHEREThe TV tower’s rotating restaurant at 207 metres gives you a spin around the city in 30 minutes. Soups, salads and light meals accompany your city tour, with attractive daily specials often the best choice. Do make reservations, or wait for a table while circling the observation level.QG-3, Panoramastraße 1a, Mitte, MS/U Alexanderplatz, tel. +49 30 247 57 58 75, www.tv-turm.de. Open 10:00 - 24:00. €€€. E


Mitte Mitte REINHARD’SReinhard’s friendly staff can whisk a coff ee to your table in no time, or if you’re here for the food, one of the light meals. The large restaurant is situated in the Nikolaiviertel, and is well-positioned for a break during a city walk.QG-3, Poststraße 28, Mitte, MU Klosterstraße, tel. +49 30 242 52 95, www.reinhards.de. Open 09:00 - 24:00. €€-€€€. TGBS

TRAUBEIn an elegant building from 1840, ‘The Grape’ serves gourmet cuisine together with an excellent range of wines. Dishes are often Alpine-inspired: cross-over food from southern Germany, Alsace, Switzerland and Austria. Guests can choose from a la carte dishes or compose their own menus, with or without wines. The two-course set lunch menu is great value.QF-2, Reinhardtstraße 33, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstraße, tel. +49 30 27 87 93 93, www.traube-berlin.de. Open 12:00 - 15:00, 18:00-23:00, Sat 18:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. €€€. TGB

ITALIAN AL CONTADINO SOTTO LE STELLEBe sure to book ahead at ‘the farmer beneath the stars’, as this Italian restaurant is often full. The good pastas, excellent lamb dishes and sweet desserts are all worth a try. Their Mozzarella Bar next door has small appetisers to eat in or take away, and is also a deli with mozzarella and other Italian specialities.QG-2, Auguststraße 36, Mitte, MU Rosenthaler Platz, tel. +49 30 281 90 23, www.alcontadino.com. Open 18:00 - 24:00. €€. TUGBW

CAFÉS BARCOMI’S DELIBarcomi’s is well known for its house-roasted coff ee and luscious American hand-made baked goods. In the cake window there are several kinds of cheese cake, lemon meringue cake, devil’s food cake, pecan pie and other heavenly creations. Bagels can be eaten with Philly cream cheese spreads, and at this Mitte outlet there are also salads, sandwiches and soups. The Kreuzberg Kaff eerösterei outlet (Bergmannstraße 21) has fresh coff ee.QF-5, Sophienstraße 21, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 28 59 83 63, [email protected], www.barcomis.de. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. €. TGBS

DIGITAL EATERYJust a click away from Brandenburg Gate, inside the historical 1902 Carlton Hotel building, Microsoft’s very fi rst café showroom worldwide is a relaxing, untouristy spot to recharge. Browse the small but excellent selection of pasta or meat dishes prepared fresh at the counter (€8,90 including drink), or the soup, paninis and cakes. Recharge your electronic devices with the cables provided, or use the free wifi . Best of all are the digital toys that allow you to go online, try out Microsoft products or play Xbox games.

There’s no sales, but the staff is happy to demonstrate hardware and software.QF-3, Unter den Linden 17, Mitte, tel. +49 30 39 09 70, www.microsoft-berlin.de. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. W

SANKT OBERHOLZA large two-fl oor café overlooking the busy street crossing. Something of a public workspace for IT entrepreneurs from the surrounding Silicon Allee internet startups, it’s the ideal place to crack open a Mac and get some work done using the free wifi and electricity plugs. Or just come for the coff ee, bagels, muffi ns and New York cheesecake.QG-2, Rosenthaler Straße 72a, Mitte, MU Rosenthaler Platz, tel. +49 30 24 08 55 86, www.sanktoberholz.de. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri 08:00 - 03:00, Sat 09:00 - 03:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. GW

SOPHIENECKA favourite of locals and tourists alike, Sophieneck is one of the most charming cafés in Mitte. Located near Hackescher Markt since the revamp of the district in 1984, it has resisted trendifi cation, staying true to its warm mishmash decor of art nouveau and poster art. The menu off ers delicious Central European fare, accompanied by an international wine list.QG-2/3, Große Hamburger Straße 37, Mitte, MU Weinmeisterstraße, tel. +49 30 283 40 65, www.sophieneck-berlin.de. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00.

Nightlife

BARS AUFSTURZThe great 19th-century explorer Alexander von Humboldt lived in this building, but nowadays the only expeditions done here are through the long drinks menu, listing dozens of excellent Belgian, German and other beers. Have a Kwak beer to really kick off your night. Prices are reasonable and the place looks good, with changing modern art exhibitions on the walls. Our favourite Oranienburger Straße haunt.QF-3, Oranienburger Straße 67, Mitte, MS Oranienburger Straße, tel. +49 30 28 04 74 07, [email protected], www.aufsturz.de. Open from 12:00. EB

AUGUST IIA sleek after-hours long drinks and champagne bar, in subdued light and colours, hung with a huge chandelier, backed by a top-class toilet and elevated by unintrusive house music. It may look closed but just ring the doorbell at the AII sign to be let in, and try the Moscow Mule for a vegetarian drink with a kick.QF-2, Auguststraße 2, Mitte, MS Oranienburger Straße, www.augustthesecond.de. Open 20:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Sun.

ESCHSCHLORAQUE RÜMSCHRÜMPAn island of insanity in a sea of overpriced Hackescher Markt pomp: this veritable den of delights and monsters

can be found hidden at the dark end of a graffi tied courtyard. There are disturbing metal beasts sticking from the crumbling walls, aff ordable beers and cocktails, a stage, plenty of smoke, and a wonderful set of characters intent on having a good night out. In summer, the outdoor cinema in the back yard shows foreign fi lms in original version.QG-3, Rosenthaler Straße 39, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, [email protected], www.eschschloraque.de. Open 14:00 - open end Open from 14:00. ENBW

KUMPELNEST 3000Stragglers of all sexual orientations head here for a nightcap or one last drunken spin on the tiny metal dance fl oor. The velvet paintings and carpeted walls are fascinating after a couple of drinks, and so are the scruff y patrons apparently: it’s known as a hook-up bar.QE-4, Lützowstraße 23, Tiergarten, MU Kurfürstenstraße, tel. +49 30 261 69 18, www.kumpelnest3000.com. Open , Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun 19:00 - 05:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 09:00. NB

MEIN HAUS AM SEEIt’s all about seeing and being seen at some Mitte bars; the ‘My Lake House’ makes it very easy with its large slope of seating steps overlooking a landscape of granny furniture lit up by discoball sparkles and all draped with nattering locals and backpackers from adjacent hostels. Open 24/7, it’s a cafe, bar and restaurant all at the same time. On the menu are drinks, exotic coff ee varieties and chilli hot choc, as well as great breakfasts (till 18:00), tasty burgers, pasta dishes and snacks. At night, DJs spin music.QG-2, Brunnenstraße 197, Mitte, MU Rosenthaler Platz, tel. +49 30 27 59 08 73, [email protected], www.mein-haus-am-see.blogspot.de. Open 24 hours Open 24/7. €. TUENGBSW

NEWTON BARMen smoke cigars beneath Helmut Newton’s life-size shots of nude Amazons and their dates sip expertly made cocktails. Dress sharp to compliment all the black leather and dark green marble.QF-3, Charlottenstraße 57, Mitte, MU Französische Straße, tel. +49 30 20 29 54 21, www.newton-bar.de. Open 10:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 04:00.

QIU LOUNGEA calm, sleek lounge above the Mandala Hotel’s discreet entrance on Potsdamer Strasse. You might spot a celeb, or the three million colours the fringed lamps are said to display in changing chameleon fashion. Their shade remains lily white during the day, when Mediterranean lunches are served at the low-lying couches or at the bar.QE/F-4, Potsdamer Straße 3 (Mandala Hotel), Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 59 00 00 00, [email protected], www.qiu.de. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00. €€€. TGW

REINGOLDA lounge glowing in amber tones recalls the thirties with an oversize drawing of Thomas Mann’s forlorn off spring, Klaus and Erika, and leather and velvet seating. Though

it often has a DJ, no one dances here. It’s a setting for making stationary moves on your date, or your tapas.QF-2, Novalisstraße 11, Mitte, MU Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49 30 28 38 76 76, [email protected], www.reingold.de. Open 19:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Sun Open from 19:00. Closed Mon, Sun. UB

CLUBS KAFFEE BURGERThe patterned wallpaper and wood panelling has withstood decades of the alternative scene’s smoke and its stuck-in-the-Socialist-Sixties-look is perfect for DJ/author Vladimir Kaminer’s wild and sweaty Russendisko nights. Happenings like poetry slams and jams start evenings that end with DJs spinning anything from Balkan and surf rock to samba.QG-2, Torstraße 60, Mitte, MU Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz, tel. +49 30 28 04 64 95, www.kaff eeburger.de. Open from 21:00. E

ROTER SALONThis place probably began with a faded elegance, but let’s say it’s just settled in after ten years of clubbers bouncing off its red walls. Most nights feature electro pop, electro lounge,

BERLIN IN BOOKS

DIVERSITY DESTROYEDDozens of portrait photos adorn the main section of the bilingual book “Diversity Destroyed.” Every one of them is an important contributor to Berlin’s vibrant art, science or political scene. Indeed, if Facebook had been around back then, any culturally

active Berliner would certainly have liked most of these people as their friends. But the sad fact is that within just a few years in the early 1930s, Berlin’s cultural life was destroyed, with tens of thousands of Berliners persecuted and driven into exile, deported or murdered. The content of Berlin’s 2013 ‘Diversity Destroyed’ theme year exhibitions are now collected in this impressive book. The photos introduce people like fi lmer Fritz Lang, director Max Reinhardt, singer Claire Waldorff , politician Paul Loebe and writer Erich Kaestner; each with a short biography showing how Nazi rule aff ected - or ended - their lives. Other texts and photos describe Berlin before and after 1933, and tell stories about several places in Berlin, including brave stories of resistance.

“Zerstörte Vielfalt. Berlin 1933–1938–1945. Eine Stadt erinnert sich” (“Diversity Destroyed. Berlin 1933–1938–1945. A City Remembers.” (ISBN 9783940231079) by Moritz van Dülmen et al is for sale for around €15 at Dussmann, the German History Museum and can be ordered at any other bookshop.


Mitte Mitte

and electroclash - the music Berlin is known for.QG-2, Volksbühne, Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz 2, Mitte, MU Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz, tel. +49 30 417 175 12, www.roter-salon-berlin.de. Open 22:00 - 04:00. Closed Tue, Sun.

WEEK-END CLUBA club, bar, gallery and lounge set on the 12th fl oor of the beautifully hideous Haus des Reisens (the GDR state travel agency specialising in saying ‘no’) on the corner of Otto-Braun-Straße.QG-3, Alexanderplatz 5, Mitte, MS/U Alexanderplatz, www.week-end-berlin.de. Open Thu-Sat 23:00-04:00.

DANCING CLÄRCHENS BALLHAUSDating back to 1913 and exactly 100 years old this autumn, the legendary Clärchens Ballhaus is a proudly old-fashioned kind of place. Originally catering to ordinary working-class Berliners, Clärchens is the last proper dance hall in Berlin, and welcomes people from across the world. Cross the front terrace (the house originally here was bombed) and enter the hall that hasn’t changed much since it opened. On the menu there’s excellent pizza and German comfort food. After dinner, there’s dancing: salsa on Monday, tango on Tuesday, swing on Wednesday, chacha and waltz on Thursday and Sunday afternoon, and a raucous live band on Friday and Saturday. Recommended.QF/G-2, Auguststraße 24, Mitte, MS Oranienburger Straße, tel. +49 30 282 92 95, www.ballhaus.de. Open 11:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00. Admission free, Fri/Sat from 20:00 €5. B

PUBS KILKENNY IRISH PUBThe three large rooms within the Hackescher Markt S-Bahn station off er more than enough space for natives and tourists to eat homemade food, meet and mingle, party and follow live sports events. Large TVs and screens make sure that you won’t miss a single goal. Irish and German beer, whiskey and other cold beverages fl ow freely.QG-3, Am Zwirngraben 17-20, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 283 20 84, [email protected], www.kilkenny-pub.de. Open from 12:00. EGBW

OSCAR WILDEA brash, large, Irish pub that fi lls up with expats and visitors whenever there’s a football rolling over some foreign fi eld. Its big screen shows Sky Sports, Premiership, Champions League and mixture of international sport, while the kitchen churns out Irish food, including all-day breakfast, and a menu that changes every week. Every Friday and Saturday there’s live music, and every second Friday a wild karaoke party; Monday night is quiz night.QF-2, Friedrichstraße 112a, Mitte, MU Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49 30 282 81 66, [email protected], www.oscar-wilde-irish-pub.de. Open , Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu 16:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. E

Sightseeing

LANDMARKS BRANDENBURGER TORBerlin’s landmark monument, built by Carl Langhans in 1792, is the last remaining of 14 city gates. Nike, the goddess of victory, drives the four-horsepower chariot atop the gate. German armies used to begin their parades here, the fascists spoiled the gate by staging their torch-lit marches through it, the war badly damaged it, and then the Wall essentially bricked the patched-up gate in for decades. Berliners celebrated the Wall’s fall in 1989 by standing on it in front of the gate, and after renovations the gate is the proud focus point of the renewed square again.QF-3, Pariser Platz, Mitte, MS/U Brandenburger Tor.

GENDARMENMARKTTwin cathedrals-turned-museums (dating to the early 1700s), the Konzerthaus (from 1818, by Carl Langhans) and a row of luxury hotels make up this classic square. The name stems from the mid-1700s when military regiments were stationed here.QF-3, Markgrafenstraße, Mitte, MU Französische Straße.

NEUE SYNAGOGEThe gilded cupola of the New Synagogue is one of the most eye-catching sights in Mitte. Exhibits strikingly balance the restoration of the Alhambra-inspired synagogue from 1866, with preserved evidence of its destruction, fi rst on Kristallnacht on November 9, 1938, and then through Allied bombs. Documents and photographs remember the thriving Jewish community of the neighbourhood, many of whom worshipped here in what was the largest synagogue in Germany. A subtle but eff ective sound installation adds to the experience.QF-3, Oranienburger Straße 28-30, Mitte, MS Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49 30 88 02 83 00, www.centrumjudaicum.de. Open Sun, Mon 10:00- 20:00, Tues-Thur 10:00-18:00, Fri 10:00-17:00; Mar & Oct until 14:00 on Fri; Nov-Feb also Sun-Thu until 18:00. Sat closed. Admission €3,50/3.

NIKOLAIVIERTELBerlin’s tiny medieval heart is the Nikolai Quarter, whose only truly medieval-looking building today is the Nikolaikirche. The church dates to 1230 and was rebuilt along with the entire quarter in the 1980s to mark Berlin’s 750th birthday in the area in which the fi shermen’s settlement fi rst began. No one was trying to outdo Walt Disney here, and many of the buildings have the simple, concrete facades that the GDR government could aff ord. The small shops in the area mostly deal in toys and souvenirs and tourists gladly fi ll the sunny tables at the restaurants that face the river. On Rathausstraße, there’s a row of restaurants that fl aunt old-fashioned Berlin cuisine and atmosphere. Other rebuilt historic buildings in the area date to the 1700s, such as the Ephraim-Palais and Knoblauchhaus. Both have changing exhibits related to Berlin.QG-3, Nikolaikirchplatz, Mitte, MU Klosterstraße, www.stadtmuseum.de.

POTSDAMER PLATZOnce a busy intersection at the modern heart of a thriving metropolis, Potsdamer Platz was heavily damaged in the war, and suff ered again when most remaining buildings were demolished to make way for the Wall’s death strip. Hotel and offi ce skyscrapers now add a cosmopolitan edge to the city, while to the east Leipziger Platz is almost rebuilt. The most popular public space and architectural attraction is the Sony Center, with its huge atrium and tent-like roof, best viewed at night for its impressive lighting. The neighbouring DaimlerChrysler complex holds architecture by Renzo Piano and Richard Rogers, and the Arkaden shopping mall.QE/F-4, MS/U Potsdamer Platz.

REICHSTAGThe name together with its monumental size make most people associate Germany’s neoclassical parliamentary building with the Nazis, but they have little history here. After hosting parliamentary sessions since 1894, it was set on fi re just one month after Hitler was appointed chancellor in January 1933. It was a conference centre in the years during which it abutted the Wall, while later artist Christo famously wrapped it in cloth. It was used as parliament again after a reunited German government returned to Berlin in 1999. Renovated by Sir Norman Foster, this building is perhaps the most public federal building in the world through its glass dome. On the rooftop, photographs documenting the building’s history circle the rim above the parliament chamber. Two ramps spiral up the side of the dome,

Club – Bar – Live & DJsKaffee Burger, well known through Wladimir Kaminer‘s Russian Disco, offers events, concerts and djs late into the night, 7 days a week.

Sun-Thu €1 Weekends €5

Kaffee Burger | Torstraße 58-60, 10119 Berlin

www.kaffeeburger.de

Kilkenny Irish Pub Soda Club House - R´n´B - SoulDanceclassics - electro

KulturBrauerei

Soda Club


Mitte Mittean engineering feat even more fascinating than the panoramic view from the top. It’s best to book an entry time to the dome or for the 90-minute guided tour of the building in advance online; otherwise queue up for remaining places at the visitor centre just across the road. Photo ID is required.QF-3, Platz der Republik 1, Tiergarten, MU Bundestag, www.bundestag.de/htdocs_e/visits. Open 08:00 - 23:00 Prebooked rooftop access every 15 minutes. Guided tours at 09:00, 10:30, 12:00, 13:30, 15:30, 17:00, 18:30, 20:00. Admission free.

CHURCHES BERLINER DOMThe fourth incarnation of this Protestant church dating from 1905 might not look as massive if the Stadtschloss were still standing across Unter den Linden (the GDR regime demolished the castle in 1951). The royal Hohenzollern dynasty worshipped and was buried here. The climb up to the dome’s rim is forgiving, with broad staircases, side exhibit rooms and good views.QG-3, Am Lustgarten, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 20 26 91 36, www.berlinerdom.de. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00 Oct-March open until 19:00. Admission €7/4.

DEUTSCHER DOMThe baroque ‘German Church’ from 1701 was completed with an impressive domed tower in 1785; badly damaged by fi re in the war it was only renovated in the 1980s. Owned by the state, the bare interior now houses an exhibition about the development of parliamentarian democracy in Germany - and how it came to fail so tragically in the last century. Be sure to see the views from the windows and the impressive building models on the top fl oor. Free tours in English are possible throughout the day; no booking is required for individual visitors.QF-3, Gendarmenmarkt 1, Mitte, MU Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 22 73 04 31, www.bundestag.de/kulturundgeschichte/ausstellungen/wege. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.

FRANZÖSISCHER DOMThe northernmost domed tower in the Gendermenmarkt’s grand architectural triptych dates back to 1785, and similarly to its counterpart was badly damaged in the war. It now has regular concerts in the simple baroque Friedrichstadtkirche church to the rear. Enter from the other side for the Huguenot museum (in German and French only), dedicated to the thousands of French protestants who moved to Berlin in the 17th century. Yet another entrance leads to the viewing balcony at 40 metres above street level, with great views all around.QF-3, Gendarmenmarkt 5, Mitte, MU Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 20 64 99 22, www.franzoesischer-dom.de. Open 12:00-17:00, viewing balcony 10:00-19:00, closed Mon. Admission €2/1, viewing balcony €2.50/1.

MEMORIALS FÜHRERBUNKERNo educational historic plaques mark the site where Hitler committed suicide on April 30, 1945. For the last month of his life, Hitler lived roughly eight meters below ground in an air-raid shelter topped by a four-metre-thick, reinforced concrete ceiling. The unremarkable spot can be reached by walking to the end of In den Ministergärten, off Ebertstraße. A parking area surrounded by a pre-fabricated apartment complex covers the location, which was entirely sealed off during the complex’s construction in 1988-89. The bunker was once accessed through the Festsaal (ballroom) behind the Reichskanzler-Palais on Wilhelmstraße.QF-3, In den Ministergärten, Mitte, MS/U Potsdamer Platz.

MEMORIAL TO THE MURDERED JEWS OF EUROPEThis bluntly named memorial avoids any vagueness surrounding the term Holocaust. Six million Jews are estimated to have been killed by the Nazis and this site serves as Germany’s national memorial to those victims. The design by American architect Peter Eisenmann is a fi eld of 2,700 concrete stelae, or pillars, of varying height, creating an undulating landscape that fi lls two city blocks. The memorial has an undergound information centre which is not suitable for children.QF-3, Cora-Berliner-Straße 1, Mitte, MS/U Brandenburger Tor, tel. +49 30 26 39 43 36, [email protected], www.stiftung-denkmal.de. Information centre open 10:00-20:00, Oct-Mar 10:00-19:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.

MUSEUMS BLACK BOX COLD WARThe exhibition at Checkpoint Charlie discusses the state of the world during the Cold War, explaining the global links between the Berlin Wall, the Korean War and the Cuban missile crisis. Along the street a free gallery of photos and texts highlights the main events that took place here.QF-4, Friedrichstraße 47, Mitte, tel. +49 30 216 35 71, [email protected], www.bfgg.de. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Admission €5/3,50.

DALÍ - THE EXHIBITION AT POTSDAMER PLATZThe Spanish master of surreal, Salvador Dalí, left a rich heritage of amazing artworks when he went to molten-watch land himself. Over 450 exhibits can be viewed at this permanent exhibition near Postdamer Platz. See true genius and craftsmanship in the many paintings, sketches, books, films, objects, and documents that are on show here. English-language tours can be booked in advance.QF-4, Leipziger Platz 7, Mitte, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 700 32 54 23 75 46, www.daliberlin.de. Open 12:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Admission €11/9, tours €6.

DEUTSCHES HISTORISCHES MUSEUMWho’d have thought to look for a Prussian war chest in this early 18th-century building sitting pretty-in-pink by the Spree? This former arsenal houses the German History Museum, with its dazzling extension designed by architect IM Pei. English tours on Fridays at 14:00.QF-3, Unter den Linden 2, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 20 30 40, [email protected], www.dhm.de. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Admission €8/4. Free for visitors under 18.

GEDENKSTÄTTE BERLINER MAUER (BERLIN WALL MEMORIAL)The excellent national memorial site for the divided Germany has a documentation centre covering the Berlin Wall’s history in text, slides and dramatic fi lm footage. An unscathed section of Wall runs along the street; walk behind it to peer through a crack in the Hintermauer rear wall to see a preserved section of death strip as it looked in the 1980s, complete with a patrol road, wires and a watchtower. Nearby, the wooden Chapel of Reconciliation is built on the spot of a church demolished to make way for the border defences. Walk on towards Mauerpark for several more open-air exhibitions.QF-2, Bernauer Straße 111 & 119, Mitte, MS Nordbahnhof, tel. +49 30 467 98 66 66, infoberliner-mauer-gedenkstaette.de, www.berliner-mauer-gedenkstaette.de. Open 09:30-19:00, Nov-Mar 09:30-18:00. Mon closed (outdoor exhibition open 24hrs). Admission free.

GEMÄLDEGALERIEBerlin’s largest art museum has 72 rooms full of works spanning the 13th to 18th centuries. German masters include Dürer, Cranach the Elder, and Holbein. The Italian works of Botticelli, Titian, Raphael and others are from the 13th to 16th century, those of the Dutch from the 15th and 16th centuries. The Rembrandt collection, one of the world’s largest, has 16 works.QE-4, Matthäikirchplatz 8, Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 266 42 42 42, [email protected], www.smb.museum. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. Admission €8/€4.

HAMBURGER BAHNHOFBerlin’s wonderful modern art museum is situated in a converted train station. It’s well worth a visit by those curious about the expressiveness of a sculpture made of animal fat (Joseph Beuys) or urban dwellers fi xated by bars of neon lighting (Dan Flavin). Andy Warhol and Marcel Duchamp are the other familiar stars of this post-1960s collection.QE-2, Invalidenstraße 50-51, Mitte, MS/U Hauptbahnhof, tel. +49 30 39 78 34 11, [email protected], www.hamburgerbahnhof.de. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €10/5.

MUSEUM FÜR FILM UND FERNSEHEN (FILM AND TV MUSEUM)Hooray for Hollywood, but remember that some of the personalities that gave it glamour and style came from Germany. Actors Marlene Dietrich and Peter Lorre, directors

Billy Wilder and Josef von Sternberg came out of a country with a strong fi lm-making tradition. Photo stills, footage, set designs and costumes provide glimpses of the familiar, and exhibits on Leni Riefenstahl’s shooting of Olympia (1936) and Nazi entertainment cq propaganda fi lms will impress ‘seen-that’ fi lm buff s. The museum ends with special eff ects and science fi ction.QE-4, Potsdamer Straße 2 (Sony Center), Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 300 90 30, www.deutsche-kinemathek.de. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon Admission €6/4,5.

MUSEUM FÜR NATURKUNDE (NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM)All the wonders of nature under one roof; a grand collection illustrating the evolution of life as well as the diversity and beauty of nature. The largest mounted dinosaur in the world towers over visitors in the main hall, and elsewhere there’s the aardvarks, the early 20th-century dioramas, meteorites, the most famous fossil of Earth history (the ancient bird Archaeopteryx lithographica), giant shells and the gorilla Bobby from the primates hall.QF-2, Invalidenstraße 43, Mitte, MU Naturkundemuseum, tel. +49 30 20 93 85 91, [email protected], www.naturkundemuseum-berlin.de. Open 09:30 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €6/3,50.

NEUE NATIONALGALERIEYou’d think that the art world had gone to minimalist extremes when passing Mies van der Rohe’s empty glass box of a museum; the 20th century treasures are all underground. The marvellous permanent collection features Otto Dix, George Grosz, Paul Klee, Wassily Kandinsky, Picasso and Leger, among others.QE-4, Potsdamer Straße 50, Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 266 42 42 42, www.smb.museum. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €8/4. Temporary exhibitions extra.

THIRD REICH BERLIN

Wilhelmstraße, the centre of government in Prussia, continued to be so under Nazi rule. Between Unter den Linden and today’s Niederkirchnerstraße, the only non-Reich structure in 1936 was the British Embassy, which still holds its ground today in a modern building. The sole remaining example of fascist architecture is the former Reichsluftfahrtministerium (Air Force Ministry) built in 1935 by Ernst Sagebiehl. The grey building that once struck fear into the heart of Londoners is now the Finance Ministry. Hitler’s New Reichs Chancellory stood on Voßstraße but was demolished after the war. Not to let the red marble of its obnoxiously long hallway go to waste, the Russians lined the nearby Mohrenstraße U-Bahn station with it. The center of Nazi terror was on Prinz-Albrecht-Straße, today’s Niederkirchnerstraße. The Topography of Terror exhibit explains the functions of the various offi ces – including the SS and Gestapo - that once occupied the site.


Mitte Mitte

Shopping

BOOKS BERLIN STORYThousands of Berlin-themed books as well as T-shirts and souvenirs. The knowledgeable staff can fi nd and order (or write) any Berlin book you’re looking for.QF-3, Unter den Linden 40, Mitte, MS/U Brandenburger Tor, tel. +49 30 20 45 38 42, www.berlinstory.de. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.

DEPARTMENT STORES ALEXA CENTREA mall at the eastern end of Alexanderplatz square, with five floors and 180 shops, restaurants and cafés. There’s a massive kids’ area with a cinema and the LOXX model train exhibition.QG-3, Grunerstraße 20 (Alexanderplatz), Mitte, MS/U Alexanderplatz, tel. +49 30 269 34 00, www.alexacentre.com. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00, lower level from 08:00. Food court also open Sun 11:00-19:00. LOXX open daily 10:00-19:00.

GALERIES LAFAYETTEThe 1990s rebirth of Friedrichstraße wouldn’t have been possible without this posh French department store. Architect Jean Nouvel’s building has a fabulous gaping glass funnel in the centre.QF-3, Friedrichstraße 76-78, Mitte, MU Französische Straße, tel. +49 30 20 94 80, www.lafayette-berlin.de. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.

FASHION & SHOES ADIDAS ORIGINALSAdidas’ fl agship store in Mitte’s trendiest shopping street has a sleek grey and white industrial look, and stocks the top products of the famed German brand, including retro sneakers and items that can’t be found elsewhere. Take

a seat in a barber chair to design your own shoes on the mi adidas screens. The selection of products on off er is changed often, making regular visits worthwhile.QG-2/3, Münzstraße 13, Mitte, MU Weinmeisterstraße, tel. +49 30 27 59 43 81, www.adidas.de. Open 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.

COMME DES GARÇONSChic Japanese design; fashion in the Black Shop and accessories next door.QF-2, Linienstraße 115, Mitte, MS Oranienburger Straße, tel. +49 30 28 09 58 80, www.comme-des-garcons.com. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun.

ONITSUKA TIGERIn a remarkable ambience of high quality materials and exciting design, combining traditional and modern Japan, Onitsuka Tiger presents the full variety of its Japanese shoe and apparel collections.QG-2, Alte Schönhauser Straße 20-22, Mitte, MU Weinmeisterstraße, tel. +49 30 24 63 21 03, www.onitsukatiger.com. Open 11:00 - 19:30, Sat 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun.

MARKETS BERLINER TRÖDELMARKTMost of the vendors at this antiques and craft market are well-organised, making fi nding that door handle, French glass vase, Turkish kilim, or amber necklace more of a shopping than a rummaging experience.QD-3, Straße des 17. Juni, Tiergarten, MS Tiergarten, tel. +49 30 26 55 00 96, www.berliner-troedelmarkt.de. Open Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.

KUNST UND NOSTALGIEMARKTLining the way to the Pergamon Museum are canal-side stalls carrying crafts and souvenirs including red-and-green Ampelmännchen products.QF-3, Am Kupfergraben, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstraße. Open Sat, Sun 10:00 - 16:00 Open Sat, Sun 11:00 - 17:00.

Hotels

OVER €200 ADLON KEMPINSKIThe reconstructed, historic Adlon hotel has views of the Brandenburger Tor and Under den Linden, unfussy 1920s-style rooms with cherry wood, black marble and rich fabrics, and the staff provides impeccable service. Often voted the best hotel in Germany and even Europe, this is in fact the only place to sleep in Berlin.QF-2, Unter den Linden 77, Mitte, MU Unter den Linden, tel. +49 30 226 10, [email protected], www.hotel-adlon.de. 375 rooms (304 singles €240 - 379, 304 doubles €216 - 478, 78 suites €531 - 7100). PHAUFLGKDCwW hhhhh

MUSEUMSINSEL

The cluster of majestic nineteenth century neoclassic buildings on the tip of the island in the Spree off ers the avid or the temperate museum-goer a number of impressive collections of art, history and ethnology, covering many facets of ancient and oriental culture, as well as their cross-overs into modernity.

ALTE NATIONALGALERIECézanne, Rodin, Monet, Degas and Liebermann are some of the artists whose works hang around this museum of 19th-century art. The temple-like structure itself was built in 1876, and is surrounded by a beautifully battered colonnade.QG-3, Bodestraße 1-3, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 266 42 42 42, www.smb.museum. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission €10/5.

ALTES MUSEUMThis neoclassic building by Prussia’s star architect Schinkel was custom-made in 1830 for the art collection of the royal Hohenzollerns. Classical antiquities were the focus, and today the museum uses pottery and sculptures to take you on a well-presented tour through ancient Etruscan, Greek and Roman history.QG-3, Am Lustgarten, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 266 42 42 42, www.smb.museum. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission €10/5.

NEUES MUSEUMBuilt in 1855, damaged in the war and only restored in 2009, the ‘New Museum’ is new again and is full of ancient art. The excellent Egyptian Museum and Papyrus Collection are housed here, with spectacular fi nds such as the famous busts of Queen Nefertiti and King Echnaton. The Pre- and Early History collection has fi nds from ancient Troy and Lycopolis to medieval Germany. One room exhibits eleven rediscovered statues that were considered to be ‘degenerate art’ by the Nazis.QG-3, Bodestraße 1-3, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 266 42 42 42, www.smb.museum. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Admission €12/6.

PERGAMON MUSEUMThe Pergamon has the best of Berlin’s classical antiquities: the Greek Pergamon Altar, the market gate of Miletus and the blue-tiled Ishtar Gate and processional way from Babylon. The Pergamon Altar’s enormous frieze depicts the battle between the gods and the giants, with gals like Athena, Aphrodite and Artemis wiping out their opponents like robed Charlie’s Angels. Near-East antiquities, with an emphasis on Assyria and Iran, and Islamic art round out the museum’s treasure chest. The audioguide has an instructive 30-minute highlights tour.QG-3, Am Kupfergraben, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 266 42 42 42, www.smb.museum. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Admission €12/6.

COLD WAR BERLIN

The physical division of Berlin during 28 years, and the development of two completely separated cities on both sides of the Wall that ran between them, has led to huge diff erences that cannot be erased in a matter of a few years. Key sights relating to this era are the Gedenkstätte Berliner Mauer in Prenzlauer Berg, Checkpoint Charlie in Mitte with the Haus am Checkpoint Charlie Wall museum, BlackBox Cold War, Wall Panorama and Stasi exhibition, and the Tränenpalast, the former border crossing beside Friedrichstraße station. Get insights into daily GDR life at the DDR Museum in Mitte and the Museumswohnung WBS 70 out in the suburbs.

International museum

opened daily: mon - sat 12 p.m. - 8 p.m.sun + holidays 10 a.m. - 8 p.m.

(24th December closed)

Potsdamer Platz

entrance: Leipziger Platz 7

Infos: 0700 - 325 423 75** (0700DaliBerlin) Tickets: www.DaliBerlin.de

(**0,14 /Min. from a landline, mobile communications vary, max 0,42 /Min.)|*only in combination with the entrance fee. Cannot

be combinded with other offers. Valid until May, 31th 2014.Hô

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With over 450 exhibits from privatecollections this permanent exhibition

provides general insight into Dalí’s virtuousmastery in almost all art techniques,

in Berlin’s lively city centre.

www.DaliBerlin.de

€

€


Mitte Mitte

HILTONMaybe it’s the excellent breakfast and not the privileged view on Gendarmenmarkt that keeps guests coming back. The formal rooms are supplemented by good restaurants and exotic spa treatments.QF-2, Mohrenstraße 30, Mitte, MU Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 202 30, [email protected], www.hilton.com. 591 rooms (singles €145 - 345, doubles €145 - 345, suites €220 - 1145). Breakfast extra. PHARUFLEGKDC hhhhh

HOTEL DE ROMEOverlooking Bebelplatz, this top-class hotel occupies a magnifi cent former bank building from 1889. Wooden panelling, marble and even shrapnel damage pervade the high-ceilinged lobby and rooms, and the bank’s vault is now a 20-metre pool.QF-3, Behrenstraße 37, Mitte, MS/U Brandenburger Tor, tel. +49 30 460 60 90, [email protected], www.hotelderome.com. 146 rooms (103 singles €395 - 495, 103 doubles €395 - 495, 43 suites €595 - 4100).

MARRIOTTTen fl oors of superb rooms and conference facilities overlooking the Platz. The lobby has a serenely spinning

3-tonne black granite globe, and the copper facade of one wall plays an unearthly light show. That plus a wellness centre and a classic Art Deco New York bar and grill make this one of Berlin’s fi nest hotels.QE-4, Inge-Beisheim-Platz 1, Mitte, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 22 00 00, www.marriott.com. 379 rooms (350 singles €159 - 219, 350 doubles €159 - 219, 9 suites €350 - 1200, 80 executive room €199 - 259). Breakfast extra. PHAFLGKDC hhhhh

RITZ-CARLTONA gilt-edged hotel with superlative services, gourmet dining and fake marble Corinthian columns lining a sweeping staircase in the lobby. The classic dark wooden bar opens with a ceremony every evening at 18:00 and serves over 400 fi ne fruit brandies.QE/F-4, Potsdamer Platz 3, Mitte, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 33 77 77, [email protected], www.ritzcarlton.com. 302 rooms (singles €250 - 360, doubles €280 - 440, 40 suites €330 - 5000). Breakfast extra. PTHARUFLGKDC hhhhh

WESTIN GRANDEnviably well-located and used in GDR times for Party bigwigs, the Westin is classically furnished, with a copy of the Adlon’s marble staircase situated in the lobby, a round pool, an upmarket restaurant and suites with butler service.QF-3, Friedrichstraße 158-164, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstraße, tel. +49 30 202 70, [email protected], www.westin.com/berlin. 358 rooms (25 singles €136 - 350, 273 doubles €136 - 375, suites €379 - 930, 15 junior suites €279 - 565, 1 presidential suite €986 - 1930). Breakfast extra. PHARUFLGKDC hhhhh

€150-200 HACKESCHER MARKTAfter a night of bar-hopping in Mitte, you’ll wish that this small hotel on a quiet street was your crash pad. Rooms are an odd mix of furnishings, including English wicker and Middle Eastern accents, but it’s a lovely spot all the same.QG-3, Große Präsidentenstraße 8, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 28 00 30, [email protected], www.hotel-hackescher-markt.com. 31 rooms (21 singles €120 - 180, 7 doubles €130 - 180, 3 suites €175 - 205). ALG hhhh

MANDALAExcellent rooms and apartments for both short and long-term stays. The Potsdamer Platz hotel location has great views over Tiergarten park and hosts the top-notch Facil restaurant and Qiu lounge; the suites at Friedrichstraße 185-190 are close to all the action.QE-4, Potsdamer Straße 3, Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 59 00 00 00, [email protected], www.themandala.de. 157 rooms (157 suites €130 - 5800). Breakfast extra. PHAUFLKDW hhhhh

€75-150 HONIGMOND & GARDEN HOTELSTwo meticulously restored buildings with sparsely furnished rooms with original wooded fl oors makes for a homey feel. The nearby Garden Hotel dependence (Invalidenstraße 122) has a garden with a lawn and goldfi sh pond for frolicking around in summer.QF-2, Tieckstraße 12, Mitte, MS Nordbahnhof, tel. +49 30 284 45 50, [email protected], www.honigmond.de. 24 rooms (singles €95 - 155, doubles €125 - 225). AG

PARK INN BERLIN ALEXANDERPLATZTowering 40 stories over Alexanderplatz, Germany’s third-largest hotel is as central as it gets. Business rooms are all renovated and stocked with a coff eemaker and ironing board. By far the best choice for the direction-impaired.QG-3, Alexanderplatz 7, Mitte, MS/U Alexanderplatz, tel. +49 30 238 90, [email protected], www.parkinn-berlin.com. 1012 rooms (318 singles €89 - 125, 671 doubles €89 - 125, 23 suites €130 - 185). Breakfast extra. POARFGKD hhhh

SCANDIC POTSDAMER PLATZThe large hotel between Potsdamer Platz and love-ly Gleisdreieck Park straddles the handy U2 metro line. Every fl oor has a season theme that determines the look of the halls and the furniture in the comfy rooms. The staff treats guests in a fresh, informal way, and the hotel is perfect for disabled travellers, and children. Free wifi .QE-4, Gabriele-Tergit-Promenade 19, Mitte, MU Mendelssohn-Bartholdy-Park, tel. +49 30 700 77 90, www.scandichotels.com. 561 rooms (doubles from €85, suites from €127). PTHAULKDCW

Opening hours:Platform: 10:00-20:00 Café: 11:00-19:00 Shorter opening hours during winter

360° PANORAMIC VIEW EXHIBITION CAFÉ

WITH THE FASTEST ELEVATOR IN EUROPE

TO THE BEST VIEWS OF BERLIN

O i h :

Potsdamer Platz 1 www.panoramapunkt.de

Exhibition

Views

of Berlin

PANORAMAPUNKT

PANORAMAPUNKTIt takes just 20 seconds on Europe’s fastest elevator to get shot up to Berlin’s best viewpoint, on the 24th and 25th fl oor of this red brick skyscraper. Architect Hans Kollhoff ’s magnifi cent 1930s-inspired building refers to New York’s skyscraping glory days but also resembles the Berlin bear, complete with a golden crown. On the top fl oors there’s a short fi lm and an exhibition about the amazing history of Potsdamer Platz square, which went from a world-class entertainment district to a Wall-divided wasteland and back again within a generation. The café and rooftop terrace off er great close-up views of Berlin’s highlights: Brandenburger Tor, the Holocaust memorial, Unter den Linden, the former Wall zone and Tiergarten park.QE-4, Potsdamer Platz 1, Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 25 93 70 80, www.panoramapunkt.de. Open 10:00-20:00, Nov-Mar 10:00-18:00. Admission €6,50/5, family ticket €15,50.

© Landesarchiv Berlin


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GERMAN APRILThis bistro is great value with a generous appetiser plate for two and various specials. The dining is a bit more formal out back, where tables get the white-linen treatment.QD-5, Winterfeldstraße 56, Schöneberg, MU Nollendorfplatz, tel. +49 30 216 88 69, www.restaurant-april.com. Open 10:00 - 24:00. €-€€. UNGBS

BAVARIUMA Bavarian restaurant oddly located in the basement of the Europa-Center mall by the Gedächtniskirche. Where buxom waitresses plonk down hearty German dishes and big glasses of Löwenbräu, Radler and Franziskaner beer, to the merry tune of oompah-music. How much more German can it get?QD-4, Tauentzienstraße 9-12 (Europa-Center), Charlottenburg, MU Kurfürstendamm, tel. +49 30 261 43 97, www.bavarium-berlin.de. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. TUG

KNESEAlt-Berliner, traditional ‘Old Berlin’ cuisine, is on off er at rustic Knese. Try the Königsberger Klopse, meatballs with potatoes, the pork knuckle or the calf liver with apples, onions and potatoes for a taste of the Berlin of yesteryear at reasonable prices. There’s also a selection of international meals and desserts for you to tuck in to. Wash it all down with some good South-African wine.QC-4, Knesebeckstraße 63, Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 88 41 34 48, www.restaurant-knese.de. Open 11:00 - 01:00. €€. TB

MARJELLCHENNot just any German restaurant, Marjellchen serves traditional dishes from the formerly German territories of Eastern Prussia, now part of Poland, Lithuania and Russia. Expect delicious Slavic-influenced dishes. Try the bartsch soup, followed by Köningsberger Klopse. Possibly the best thing about Marjellchen is the old-world feel; dark walls are hung with darker paintings, a record player crackles yesterday’s tunes and the owners stand at the bar.QC-4, Mommsenstraße 9, Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 883 26 76, www.marjellchen-berlin.de. Open 17:00 - 23:30. €€. TGBS

RENGER-PATZSCHUpscale German dining with a diff erence. The interior is kept casual and simple, with all focus on the people and the food. Serving regional cooking, you can order dishes such as sauteed mushrooms in chervil sauce, pan-seared pike-perch and a selection of tasty Alsatian fl ammekuchen.QD-5, Wartburgstraße 54, Schöneberg, MU Eisenacher Straße, tel. +49 30 784 20 59, www.renger-patzsch.com. Open 18:00 - 23:30. €€.

SCHÖNEBERGER WELTLATERNECome back to old West Berlin at this wood-panelled tavern on the southwest side of Viktoria-Luise-Platz. Schnitzel variations, Berliner Eisbein (pork knuckle with pea puree, sauerkraut, and boiled potatoes), Oma’s Rote Grütze (a vanilla pudding with stewed red berries), and warm apple strudel make up the menu of traditional Alt-Berlin and Brandenburg cuisine.QD-5, Motzstraße 61, Schöneberg, MU Viktoria-Luise-Platz, tel. +49 30 21 96 98 61, [email protected], www.schoeneberger-weltlaterne.de. Open 17:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 02:00. €. TEB

ZILLEMARKTIt’s easy to imagine Heinrich Zille, a local artist famous for his charming portraits of Berlin’s lower classes, stroll in and order a jellied boiled pork, stuff ed cabbage leaves or a Berliner Currywurst. Zillemarkt serves breakfast, home-

If ‘downtown’ to you means wide, traffi c-fi lled streets, crowds of shoppers, fi ve-star hotels and tall buildings, then Charlottenburg comes closest to fi tting the bill in Berlin. The Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtniskirche church, left as a ruin after the war, is the nexus of activity; between it and Zoologischer Garten station, over a billion euros is being invested in impressive highrises, hotels and offi ces.

Follow what becomes an increasingly silken ribbon down Kurfürstendamm (Ku’damm) and the setting becomes more genteel. West Berliners meet in the bars and cafés branching off Savignyplatz, even if the Szene has moved east. Nearby but isolated from the hoi polloi is Schloss Charlottenburg, the residence of King Friedrich I. This chapter also covers other parts of western Berlin: leafy Wilmersdorf and Schöneberg, the centre of gay Berlin since the days of Christopher Isherwood’s Berlin Stories. We’ve also included some nearby venues in Tiergarten (offi cially part of Mitte) here.

Getting thereCharlottenburg’s nerve centre is Zoologischer Bahnhof station, along the main west-east raised city railway and easily reached from Hauptbahnhof or Spandau. From here’s it’s a short walk to many hotels and sights, or else hop on the M29 bus, going east along Tauentzienstraße or west down Kurfürstendamm.

Pocket Walk: CharlottenburgExplore Charlottenburg from Zoologischer Garten station. Walk east past the Zoo to Breitscheidplatz for the ruins and modern reincarnation of the Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church. Stroll further east down Tauentzienstraße for the KaDeWe department store and other upmarket shops, or head west along Kantstraße to leafy Savignyplatz for calm cafés and refi ned dining, or southwest down grand old Kurfürstendamm for more shopping.


Renger-Patzsch

Wartburgstraße 54Berlin - Schöneberg

Open daily from 18:00Tel. 784 20 59

www.renger-patzsch.com

Local cuisine



made cakes. lunch and dinner, and you can down a Zillebräu beer in the glass-ceilinged bar.QC-4, Bleibtreustraße 48a, Charlottenburg, MS Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 881 70 40, [email protected], www.zillemarkt.de. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. TB

ASIAN SUKSANA short stroll from West Berlin’s shops and sights, Suksan is a cosy Thai restaurant decorated with ample bamboo poles and palmleaf roofs. Drop by for the lunch specials, or dine on spicey Thai dishes accompanied by wine or fresh coconut milk, perhaps followed by a cocktail.QD-4, Ansbacher Straße 4, Schöneberg, MU Wittenbergplatz, tel. +49 30 21 01 86 73, [email protected], www.suksan.de. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri 12:00 - 24:00, Sat 16:00 - 24:00, Sun 17:00 - 23:00.

AUSTRIAN OTTENTHALThe pleasure in this intimate, classy bistro is that of fresh, seasonal ingredients, often from the owner’s home town, Ottenthal. Daily specials might include foam of goose liver or venison pie with apple-celery salad. The portion of Wiener Schnitzel could feed two. Service is excellent, and you can rely on wine recommendations (the list is extensive). Wines and other products from Ottenthal such as pumpkinseed oil, are available for purchase. This is truly one of our favourite spots.QC-4, Kantstraße 153, Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 313 31 62, www.ottenthal.com. Open 17:00 - 01:00. €€€. VGB

SCHNITZELEINearly as far from central Berlin as Austria, Schnitzelei is well off the beaten track, but well worth looking up. No tacky alpine decorations here, but a light take on the genre, with oak patterns and subdued lighting creating a good vibe. There are delicious schnitzels in diff erent variations, though you may also want to try the German tapas.QB-3, Röntgenstraße 7, Charlottenburg, MU Richard-Wagner-Platz, tel. +49 30 34 70 27 78, www.schnitzelei.de. Open 16:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. €€. TVGBS

FINE DINING DIE QUADRIGAChef Sauli Kemppainen dishes up innovative Scandinavian cuisine in this intimate, Michelin-starred gourmet restaurant. The main room is in the style of a classic Berlin salon, with paintings from the Berlin Secessionist movement and KPM porcelain; the cherrywood chair design is by Frank Lloyd Wright, dating to 1904.QC-4, Eislebener Straße 14, Charlottenburg, MU Augsburger Straße, tel. +49 30 21 40 56 50, [email protected], www.brandenburger-hof.com. Open 12:00 - 14:00, 19:00-22:00, Mon, Sat 19:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. €€€€. EB h

FIRST FLOORA Michelin star has been the beacon over Matthias Dieter’s restaurant for years now, and visiting gourmands who can’t move well after a seven-course meal make a point of staying at the Palace. The cuisine has touches of France and

the Far East, and turbot with caviar or prawn is often on the menu.QD-4, Budapester Straße 45, Charlottenburg, MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 25 02 10 20, www.palace.de. Open 18:30 - 22:30. Closed Mon, Sun. €€€€. G h

HUGOSThe InterContinental’s Michelin-starred French restaurant on the 14th fl oor has stunning views across the park to Potsdamer Platz. Chef Thomas Kammeier’s cuisine is equally dazzling; expect subtle creations blending fi ne fl avours in the lightest of dishes.QD-4, Budapester Straße 2, Tiergarten, MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 26 02 12 63, www.hugos-restaurant.de. Open 18:30 - 22:30. Closed Mon, Sun. €€€€. TUGW h

INTERNATIONAL DIEKMANNHerr Diekmann was one of the fi rst to grace Berlin’s simple tables with some French fi nesse, even if it was in what began as a sandwich shop in 1976. Shelves and drawers of an old Kolonialwaren store line the walls, and Diekmann still uses French techniques to primp excellent ingredients. Always on the menu are oysters and a selection of French cheeses.QC-4, Meinekestraße 7, Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 883 33 21, www.diekmann-restaurants.de. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 18:00 - 01:00. €€€. UGB

DRESSLERA good place to go if you yearn to relive something of Berlin’s roaring 1920s. Expect Art Deco wooden paneling, large mirrors, and good bistro and proper restaurant meals served in a very relaxed atmosphere. The menu changes every week. Also in Mitte, at Unter den Linden 39.QC-4, Kurfürstendamm 207, Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 883 35 30, www.restaurant-dressler.de. Open 08:00 - 01:00. €€€. UGB

DUKECreative international crossover meals are served in the aptly named Ellington Hotel restaurant, set in a dazzling 1920s building near the Ku’damm. The open kitchen allows you to watch chef cook Florian Glauert create culinary treats.QD-4, Nürnberger Straße 50-55, Charlottenburg, MU Wittenbergplatz, tel. +49 30 683 15 40 00, www.duke-restaurant.com. Open 11:30 - 23:00. €€€-€€€€.

EINHORNA fabulous vegetarian lunchbar, with standing space only. Every day there’s a completely diff erent menu, with European and Mediterranean as well as Arab and Asian dishes.QC-4, Mommsenstraße 2, Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 881 42 41, www.einhorn-catering.de. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. €. NGS

SUKSANSUKSANSawatdi Kap – welcome to Suksan. Experience a temple for Thai food and cooking culture in the heart of West Berlin, offering varied dishes with captivating aromas and tasty combinations that will tickle the palate. Quality, freshness, and healthy and original ingredients are central to our dishes, without losing sight of modern cuisine. Under bamboo roofs, Suksan seats over 60 guests in Thai settings. Let us take you on a culinary trip

to the land of smiles.

Ansbacherstrasse 4(corner of Kurfürstenstrasse)

tel. 21 01 86 73, www.suksan.de.

ORIGINALTHAIFOOD

Ansbacher Strasse 4corner Kurfürstenstrasse

U-Bhf Wittenbergplatz

Telefon 030.21 01 86 73Telefax 030.21 01 86 88

www.suksan.de

RESTAURANT & COCKTAIL LOUNGE

100m to KaDeWe and ZOO Berlin

TRAVEL FAR.EAT AT HOME.

Mon-Fri 12:00-24:00Sat, Sun, Holidays 10:00-24:00

Tel. 030-881 70 40Bleibtreustr. 48a, Berlin-Charlottenburg

www.zillemarkt.de

Traditional German cuisine

Over 100 years ofcomfort and quality

ZillemarktCaféhaus • Restaurant

J J

Zillemarkt

Suksan



ITALIAN FRANCUCCI’SFrancucci’s kitchen churns out fresh, fresh food, with home-made pasta and bread and plenty of regional ingredients in dishes like the veal scallop with herbs, potatoes and black truffl es.QB-4, Kurfürstendamm 90, Charlottenburg, MU Adenauerplatz, tel. +49 30 323 33 18, www.francucci.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€. TVGBSW

LA FORCHETTAAn upmarket restaurant well within the city limits but overlooking lake Halensee. Only fresh Italian food is served here, including a delicious oven baked lamb. In summer, a romantic terrace is available.QA-5, Königsallee 5b, Wilmersdorf, MS Halensee, tel. +49 30 892 85 97, [email protected], www.la-forchetta-berlin.de. Open 12:00 - 24:00. B

LOCANDAA tiny restaurant where Gianni can be found welcoming guests, cooking, pouring wine, serving food and washing dishes, all the while singing along to Italian classics. The pasta, fi sh and meat dishes are simple, and all simply delicious. Ask for the three-course surprise menu. Opposite the Schaubühne theatre.QB-4, Lehniner Platz 2, Charlottenburg, MU Adenauerplatz, tel. +49 30 31 80 69 68. Open 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. €. TNGBS

ZWÖLF APOSTELThe alley next to the S-Bahn tracks leads to a grand interior with classicist decoration and angels on the walls. The Italian food - including wood-oven pizzas - served here is excellent, and from Monday to Friday the business lunch options off er good value. Also at Georgenstraße 2, under the S-Bahn track in Mitte.QC-4, Bleibtreustraße 49, Charlottenburg, MS Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 312 14 33, www.12-apostel.de. Open 08:00 - 01:00. €€. TNGBS

JAPANESE SACHIKO SUSHIAn innovative kaiten sushi restaurant - the oldest in town, dating back to 1995 - has little boats circling the restaurant with some of the best sushi in town. Not afraid to serve classic and new sushi varieties with world wines, here’s your chance to have bonito with Sauvignon Blanc, or tuna rolls with Riesling. Beneath the railway arches.QC-3, Jeanne-Mammen-Bogen 584, Charlottenburg, MS Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 313 22 82, www.sachikosushi.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 16:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon. €€. TGBS

SPANISH EL DORADODark woods and coloured tile work make a proper setting for this Spanish restaurant. The various steak cuts can weigh up to a kilo. The non-red meat dishes include Moorish and Catalan specialities and there’s also tapas if you just want to snack while watching the boulevard’s shoppers pass by.QC-4, Kurfürstendamm 203-205, Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 88 92 65 82, www.eldorado-steakhaus.de. Open 11:00 - 02:00. €€. B

CAFÉS CAFÉ AM NEUEN SEEThe perfect Berlin biathlon is riding a bike through Tiergarten park, rehydrating with beer here, and then renting a rowboat on the adjacent lake. This café, restaurant and bar serves a breakfast of champions until 16:00 as well as regional food, coff ee, cakes and cocktails. Food served till 22:00.QD-4, Lichtensteinallee 2, Tiergarten, MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 254 49 30, www.cafeamneuensee.de. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. €€-€€€. TUGB

CAFÉ IM LITERATURHAUSSome guests may be sporting three-piece suits, straw hats, polished canes and freshly fl uff ed pups, but you don’t have to be all that precious about eating at this literary hangout. Food runs from cheap sandwiches for aspiring writers and critics, to lamb. The 19th-century building has airy rooms that are pleasant to dine in on a sunny day.QC-4, Fasanenstraße 23, Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 887 2860, [email protected], www.literaturhaus-berlin.de. Open 10:00 - 17:00. €€. GB

CAFE KALWILA cosy and straight-friendly café in gay old Schöneberg. Pink sofas and antique tables are arranged below glittering chandeliers, overlooked by a dozen portraits of strapping moustachioed men. There’s fair trade coff ee, quality teas, cakes by Wunderkuchen, sandwiches, light meals and more.QD-4/5, Motzstraße 30, Schöneberg, MU Nollendorfplatz, tel. +49 30 23 63 88 18. Open 09:00 - 22:00. €€. ABW

GRENANDER MORNING GLORYPastries, muffi ns, croissants and rolls lie in waiting at the counter of this modern, earth-tone café. Great for breakfast, lunch or indeed something else to glorify your morning.QD-4, Wittenbergplatz 3a, Schöneberg, MU Wittenbergplatz, tel. +49 30 75 52 77 21, www.grenander.de. Open 08:00 - 22:00. €€. TUGBS

Nightlife

BARS ALT BERLINER BIERSALONA favourite for many foreigners - a huge bar with cosy corners as well as areas where wild sports fans can watch a large screen. The bar serves well-priced German and international food as well as big breakfasts. Groups are welcome - actually you can fi t 499 of your buddies plus yourself in here.QC-4, Kurfüstendamm 225, Charlottenburg, MU Kurfürstendamm, tel. +49 30 884 39 90, www.alt-berliner-biersalon.de. Open 24hrs. €€. TUEGBSW

GREEN DOORThis dimly-lit, cool bar doesn’t take itself too seriously. An undulating wall with a recessed shelf for drinks leads to an improbable end of Gingham-checked wallpaper. A padded, green leather door protects those prone to bumping into Café im Literaturhaus

MAROOUSHRefi ned Egyptian-oriental opulence with a modern twist and gourmet food. The combined restaurant, shisha lounge and cocktail bar has a luxurious and tasteful décor enhancing the equally exotic menu. Puff on a shisha as you await your meal or come on Friday or Saturday for ‘dinner and dance’, with belly-dancers, live music and a party atmosphere.QC-4, Knesebeckstraße 48, Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 887 11 83 35, www.marooush.de. Open 15:00 - 01:00. E



Charlottenburg & the WestCharlottenburg & the Westthings after a few rounds. Most of the crowd is thirty and up, and quite steady on their feet.QD-5, Winterfeldstraße 50, Schöneberg, MU Nollendorfplatz, tel. +49 30 215 25 15, www.greendoor.de. Open 18:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 04:00.

HEFNERThe most happening spot on Savignyplatz is this cool cocktail bar on the corner with Kantstraße. Though the lengthy cocktail menu includes all the favourites, Hefner prides itself on having the best selection of Martini cocktails in Berlin.QC-4, Kantstraße 146, Charlottenburg, MU Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 31 01 75 20, www.hefner-berlin.de. Open 16:00 - 03:00, Sat 13:00 - 03:00. NB

ZWIEBELFISCHThe name Zwiebelfi sch is, among other things, the term used by printers to label a single letter that rebels and appears in a font unlike the letters around it. Aging, but still-kicking liberals come here to rest the weight of their youthful ideals and trade wisecracks with long-time owner Hartmut Volmerhaus. Jazz or classic music is piped in, and a selection of papers and magazines helps stretch out the beer or coff ee. Hot meals, like goulash and Swabian Maultaschen are served up until 03:00. The tall tables abutting the bar are a brilliantly social arrangement.QC-4, Savignyplatz 7-8, Charlottenburg, MS Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 312 73 63, www.zwiebelfi sch-berlin.de. Open 12:00 - 06:00. €-€€. NBSW

JAZZ CLUBS A-TRANEConcerts at 22:00.QBleibtreustraße 1, Charlottenburg, MU Ernst-Reuter-Platz, tel. +49 30 313 25 50, [email protected], www.a-trane.de. Open 21:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 21:00 - 04:00. E

QUASIMODOBlues, jazz, funk, or soul in a casual cellar. To fi nd the place, go up to the terrace next to Theater des Westens and follow the stairwell to the left of the café. Concerts start at 22:00.QC-4, Kantstraße 12a, Charlottenburg, MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 31 80 45 60, [email protected], www.quasimodo.de. Open 21:00 - 02:00. ENGBW

PUBS IRISH HARPA well-established Irish pub serving all the usual pub grub favourites as well as soups, salads and a range of homemade burgers. On tap there’s Guinness, Kilkenny, and a choice of German beers. You can expect major sports events to be beamed on screens, and there’s quiz nights and live music too. The pub can be booked for special occasions.QB-4, Giesebrechtstraße 15, Charlottenburg, MU Adenauerplatz, tel. +49 30 22 32 87 35, [email protected], www.harp-pub.de. Open from 10:00. €-€€. EBW

UNION JACKA corner of Scottish highland in the heart of Berlin, this whisky pub is one of Berlin’s fi rst true pubs and continues to draw the punters in with a collection of 401 whiskys (from the best Scottish and Irish brands to Canadian and Japanese bourbon) and various English and Irish beers. Solid food is available too – home made snacks and and Walkers crisps.QC-4, Schlüterstraße 15, Charlottenburg, MS Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 312 55 57, www.unionjack-berlin.de. Open 19:00 - open end. Closed Sun Open from 19:00. Sun closed.

Sightseeing

LANDMARKS OLYMPIC STADIUMThe Olympic Stadium was originally built under the direction of architect Werner March to host the 1936 Olympic Games. A good example of bombastic fascist architecture, its size never fails to impress. The most striking changes are the blue track and the seemingly fl oating roof whose translucent skin off ers shelter for almost all of the 75,000 seats. On non-event days you can visit the stadium using a multi-language audioguide, or on an hour-long guided tour.QOlympischer Platz 3, Charlottenburg, MS/U Olympiastadion, tel. +49 30 25 00 23 22, [email protected], www.olympiastadion-berlin.de. Open 09:00 - 19:00 June - mid-Sep open until 20:00, Nov - mid-Mar 10:00-16:00. Admission €7/5.

SCHLOSS CHARLOTTENBURG (CHARLOTTENBURG PALACE)The largest royal residence in Berlin, named for Prussia’s fi rst queen. Though it began as a modest summer palace in 1695, today’s version, distinguished by its 505-meter facade and central tower, took its fi nal form in 1790. You can take a guided or audiotour of the luxurious and largely Rococo and Baroque apartments where an eye-glazing number of royal Friedrichs and Wilhelms resided. Also here is the largest collection of 18th century French painting outside France, plus a beautiful Baroque garden, mausoleum, and Belvedere teahouse with a porcelain exhibition. Take bus M45 from Wagner-Platz or Zoologischer Bahnhof.QA-3, Spandauer Damm 20-24, Charlottenburg, MU Richard-Wagner-Platz, tel. +49 30 32 09 14 40, www.spsg.de. Open 10:00-18:00; Nov-Mar 10:00-17:00; Mon closed. New Wing 10:00-18:00, Tues closed. Admission €12/8, New Wing €6/5. Photo permit €3.

CHURCHES GEDÄCHTNISKIRCHEThe ruined Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church, a stark reminder of wartime destruction, is West Berlin’s landmark attraction. Kept as an open wound, the severe acknowledgement of Ger-many’s culpability is declared on a plaque: ‘The tower of the old church serves as a remembrance of God’s judgement, which befell our people during the war years.’ The 1895 church was once a symbol of national pride: even synagogues contributed to its funding. Inside is a gilded mosaic of the Hohenzollern dynasty. The modern chapel and bell tower beside it were completed in 1961, and are worth entering on sunny days for the amazing blue stained glass windows. Concerts take place every week, many of them free.QD-4, Breitscheidplatz, Charlottenburg, MU Kurfürstendamm, tel. +49 30 218 50 23, www.gedaechtniskirche-berlin.de. Open 09:00-19:00.

MUSEUMS ALLIIERTENMUSEUM (ALLIED MUSEUM)The Allied Museum covers 50 years of West German Allied (US, British, French) relations in the US Army movie house Outpost. The prize exhibit is the original sentry box from the Checkpoint Charlie border crossing.QClayallee 135, Zehlendorf, MU Oskar-Helene-Heim, tel. +49 30 818 19 90, www.alliiertenmuseum.de. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Wed. Admission free.

Schlüterstr.15, 10625 Berlin - Charlottenburg, Tel. 312 55 57, www.unionjack-berlin.de, Monday to Saturday from 19:00

Open daily from 10:00

Giesebrechtstraße 15

tel. 22 32 87 35 fax. 22 32 87 36

[email protected] www.harp-pub.de

We serve culinary treats from the German, Irish

and international cuisines.• • •

Every Thursday from 20:00 join our popular

multimedia fun-quiz, in both German and English• • •

Fridays and Saturdays live music from 21:00• • •

Live screenings of sports events on big screens!

See www.harp-pub.de for our calendar of events.

Irish Harp

Union Jack

HOTELS IN BERLIN

Finding accommodation is not such a problem in Berlin; the city has hundreds of hotels and thousands of beds. And in a city this large, every place can call itself ‘central’. The hotel categories in this guide are based on the highest double room rack rate price, but actual prices often depend on the the season and booking method. Prices include VAT and breakfast unless mentioned otherwise. Apartment rentals are booming; renting one for a day or a month is usually much cheaper than checking into a hotel.


Charlottenburg & the WestCharlottenburg & the Westbikiniberlin.de. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sat 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun Terrace open 24hrs.

KAUFHAUS DES WESTENS (KADEWE)Europe’s largest department store, Berlin’s answer to Harrod’s has 64 escalators linking seven huge fl oors, with two fl oors devoted completely to gourmet food. Have oysters at the champagne bar to take the sting out of your shopping spree.QD-4, Tauentzienstraße 21-24, Charlottenburg, MU Wittenbergplatz, tel. +49 30 212 10, www.kadewe.de. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Fri 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:30 - 20:00. Closed Sun.

FASHION & SHOES ADIDAS PERFORMANCEA huge store selling the well-known Performance athlete’s range, including some items not on off er elsewhere, as well as Originals products and other leisure wear. Design your own colourful shoes with the hands-on mi-adidas touch screens, or test some trainers while doing computer sports games.QD-4, Tauenzienstraße 15, Chalottenburg, MU Kurfürstendamm, tel. +49 30 23 63 19 44. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun.

VERONICA POHLEFashion by 40 international designers, including Kenzo, Temperley London, Moschino, Milly and Catherine Malandrino, in a cool-chic boutique with competent and multi-lingual staff along the Ku-damm.QB-4, Kurfürstendamm 64, MU Adenauerplatz, tel. +49 30 883 37 31, www.veronicapohle.de. Open 10:30 - 19:30, Sat 11:00 - 18:30.

Hotels

OVER €200 DAS STUEThe luxurious, family-owned ‘living room’ hotel, set in the 1930s Danish embassy building, attracts an interesting mix of creatives and business visitors. The 1920s-style bar and many rooms overlook the zoo, with ostriches and antelopes peering back at you. The rooms and grand suites are spread across the old and new wings, adorned with beautiful wooden and copper details. A small pool can be found in the spa area, and there’s the fi rst-class Cinco restaurant.QD-4, Drakestraße 1, Tiergarten, MU Wittenbergplatz, tel. +49 30 311 72 20, www.das-stue.com. 80 rooms (70 doubles from €200, 20 suites €290-740). PHUFGKDCW

HÔTEL CONCORDE BERLINThe French-run, 11-story Concorde impresses with sleekly designed rooms with fi ne woods, contemporary art and fantastic views from the upper fl oors. The curved corner suites have sliding walls and elegant free-standing bathtubs.QC-4, Augsburger Straße 41, Charlottenburg, MU Kurfürstendamm, tel. +49 30 800 99 90, [email protected], www.concorde-hotels.com/concordeberlin. 311 rooms (singles €230 - 280, doubles €240 - 300, 44 suites €280 - 950). Breakfast extra.

INTERCONTINENTALNear transport options, the Zoo and Tiergarten park, the InterContinental off ers quiet nights in modern and spacious rooms, and conference facilities with intelligent business solutions. After work, there’s gourmet food at Hugos and live music at the Marlene Bar. Further relaxation options can be found in the large spa complex, with several saunas and fi tness facilities.QD-4, Budapester Straße 2, Tiergarten, MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 260 20, [email protected], www.interconti.com. 558 rooms (498 singles €165 - 350, 498 doubles €170 - 400, 60 suites €215 - 2500). Breakfast extra. PTHAUFLEGBKDCW hhhhh

KEMPINSKI BRISTOLThe elite Kempinski and Adlon are sister properties, but this is where well-travelled regulars feel more at home - out of the limelight, but still in upmarket lodgings on a swank corner of Ku’damm.QC-4, Kurfürstendamm 27, Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 88 43 40, [email protected], www.kempinskiberlin.de. 301 rooms (249 singles €265 - 326, 249 doubles €322 - 447, 52 suites €470 - 1800). Breakfast extra. PHARUFLGKDC hhhhh

PALACENear the Europa Center shops and the zoo, gourmands feast at the First Floor restaurant and guests schmooze in the conference rooms that include Tai-Ping carpets, oak

panelling and fi replaces. The staidly furnished rooms are large.QD-4, Budapester Straße 45, Charlottenburg, MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 250 20, [email protected], www.palace.de. 239 rooms (59 singles €200 - 300, 191 doubles €225 - 325, 32 suites €325 - 2150). PHARUFLGKDC hhhhh

SAVOY BERLINUtterly un-Berlin, this stylish Cuban-fl avoured abode once made Latin-music lover David Byrne a happy guest. Who knows who you’ll trade smoke rings with in the cigar shop near the clubby Times Bar.QC-4, Fasanenstraße 9-10, Charlottenburg, MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 31 10 30, [email protected], www.hotel-savoy.com. 125 rooms (45 singles €142 - 222, 62 doubles €152 - 232, triples €192 - 272, 16 suites €202 - 292). ARFKD hhhh

SWISSÔTEL BERLINEvery room here has a Lavazza espresso machine and suites are cranking with Bang & Olufsen stereos. When you’re done playing in your room, downtown western Berlin beckons. You’ll never want to go home.QC-4, Augsburger Straße 44, Charlottenburg, MU Kurfürstendamm, tel. +49 30 22 01 00, [email protected], www.swissotel-berlin.com. 316 rooms (219 singles €160 - 310, 219 doubles €160 - 310, 14 suites €310 - 480, 11 junior suite €260 - 410). Breakfast €21. PHARFLGD hhhhh

BRÖHAN MUSEUMA stellar collection of art deco, art nouveau, and art and craft design awakens post-modern sensibilities, blunted by so much IKEA and minimalism, to craftsmanship, whimsy and indulgent beauty. In addition to the permanent collection (spanning 1889-1939) of porcelain, lamps, vases, and furnishings, are paintings, including those by Peter Behrens and Bruno Paul, as well as special exhibitions.QB-3, Schloßstraße 1a, Charlottenburg, MU Sophie-Charlotte-Platz, tel. +49 30 32 69 06 00, www.broehan-museum.de. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €6/4.

MUSEUM FÜR ASIATISCHE KUNSTAlongside special exhibitions dealing with everything from Qing-dynasty painting to architecture, the Asian Art museum has an impressive permanent collection of Indian, Chinese, Japanese and Korean art and archaeology. Each tradition has its own gallery, and in the centre, a room dedicated to Buddhist art. Chinese and Japanese painting and calligraphy are of special interest, as well as Japanese woodcuts.QTakustraße 40, Zehlendorf, MU Dahlem-Dorf, tel. +49 30 266 42 42 42, www.smb.museum. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €6/3.

PARKS AND GARDENS TIERGARTENThis 255 hectare park full of paths, meadows, and waterways is the most genteel of Berlin’s parks, but it’s still a fi ne place for jogging, football, a picnic barbecue, or nude sunbathing (weather permitting). The Siegessäule (Victory Column) that stood in front of the Reichstag from 1873 until 1938 now serves as a roundabout and lookout point in the middle of the park. The park’s café and beer garden, Café am Neuensee, is at the southwestern end.QC/D/E-3/4.

Shopping

BOOKS BOOKS IN BERLINA lovely nook devotedly entirely to English-language books.QC-4, Goethestraße 69, Charlottenburg, MU Ernst-Reuter-Platz, tel. +49 30 313 12 33, [email protected], www.booksinberlin.de. Open 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.

SHOPPING CENTRES BIKINI BERLINOpening in early April, the Bikini Berlin ‘concept mall’ promises to be the shopping sensation of the year. Inside the renovated landmark 1950s building is a set of boutiques selling everything from fashion, beauty and electronics to art, plus a supermarket, restaurants and cafes. On the lower level there are 19 cool pop-up box shops - but perhaps best of all is the huge terrace with great views across the zoo.QD-4, Budapester Straße 38-50, Charlottenburg, MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 55 49 64 54, www.

www.senscity-albergo.de [email protected]


Prenzlauer BergCharlottenburg & the West WALDORF ASTORIABerlin’s newest luxury hotel, 118 metres high, occupies a prime spot near Kurfürstendamm and the Kadewe department store in western Berlin. Honouring its grand New York heritage, it’s decorated in lavish Art Deco style, with artworks and decoration in the spacious rooms, and a café and bar with a 1920s Berlin theme. The library on the 15th floor with its concierge and great views is a comfortable place to relax. The Les Solistes restaurant run by star chef Pierre Gagnaire offers fine dining and 650 wines.QC-4, Hardenbergstraße 28, Charlottenburg, MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 814 00 00, www.waldorfastoriaberlin.com. 232 rooms (doubles from €250). PHAUFLGKDCwW

€150-200 BLEIBTREUIt’s hard to tell the hip guests from the hip neighbours that share the deli and café fronting the boutique-lined street. The designer rooms operate by remote-control but are furnished using allergy-friendly, ecological, natural fabrics and furniture.QC-4, Bleibtreustraße 31, Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 88 47 40, [email protected], www.bleibtreu.com. 60 rooms (15 singles €115 - 157, 45 doubles €125 - 182). ARGK

GRAND HOTEL ESPLANADEOverlooking the Bauhaus museum between Kurfürstendamm and Tiergarten park, the modern Esplanade has bright, well-furnished rooms and impresses with a large glass-covered atrium, the Harry’s New York Bar and a sizeable spa and fi tness centre.QD-4, Lützowufer 15, Tiergarten, MU Nollendorfplatz, tel. +49 30 25 47 80, www.esplanade.de. 394 rooms (singles/doubles from €99, 40 suites from €139). PTHAUFLGKDCW hhhhh

€75-150 BERLIN, BERLINMostly known for its conference facilities, this large 1958 hotel is in a central but rather bland area just south of Tiergarten park. The glam period lobby and restaurant give way to comfortably furnished rooms, in a variety of styles. There’s live sports action in the bar, while peace can be found in the summer garden restaurant.QD-4, Lützowplatz 17, Tiergarten, MU Nollendorfplatz, tel. +49 30 260 50, [email protected], www.hotel-berlin.de. 701 rooms (103 singles €100 - 195, 569 doubles €100 - 245, 29 suites €220 - 900). PHARUFLGKD hhhh

BERLIN PLAZAThe Plaza has elegantly simple rooms equipped with all modern conveniences, such as allergy-free bedlinen and free wi-fi . The in-house Knese restaurant has solid traditional Berlin cuisine, and an attractive terrace.

QC-4, Knesebeckstraße 63, Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 88 41 30, [email protected], www.plazahotel.de. 131 rooms (singles €80 - 150, doubles €79 - 180, triples €105 - 200). HLGKW

BEST WESTERN PRESIDENTHuge leather reclining chairs, cosmetic tables and an old-time clubby lounge make this a smart choice for business travellers. Besides the restaurant and bar, there’s also a fi tness centre and multifunctional meeting rooms.QD-4, An der Urania 16-18, Schöneberg, MS/U Wittenbergplatz, tel. +49 30 21 90 30, [email protected], www.president-hotel.de. 178 rooms (25 singles €79 - 155, 153 doubles €96 - 183, 3 suites €189 - 305). Breakfast extra. PHARFGKD hhhh

ELLINGTON HOTELSet in a beautiful 1920s building near Kurfürstendamm and named after the American jazz legend, the Ellington’s rooms have clean, understated and elegant design, with the Tower Suites off ering great views. The Duke hotel restaurant serves up international cuisine in fabulous surroundings, and has regular jazz brunches.QD-4, Nürnberger Straße 50-55, Charlottenburg, MU Wittenbergplatz, tel. +49 30 68 31 50, [email protected], www.ellington-hotel.com. 285 rooms (singles €108 - 238, doubles €118 - 248, suites €168 - 428). PJHARUFLK

KU’DAMM 101Furnishings here echo the 1950s-70s, while 21st-century bi-colour rubber fl ooring is underfoot. Every room has designer chairs, and rubber toys in the white-tiled bathrooms, meant to emulate the Paris metro. The sunny top-fl oor breakfast room is just what you need to wake up.QB-4, Kurfürstendamm 101, Charlottenburg, MU Adenauerplatz, tel. +49 30 520 05 50, [email protected], www.kudamm101.com. 170 rooms (34 singles €101 - 161, 136 doubles €118 - 178). Breakfast extra. PHARULGBD hhh

SENSCITY HOTEL ALBERGOOnce a Russian Orthodox cathedral with onion domes until refurbishment in 1938, the corner building that now holds the Albergo is a good base for exploring western Berlin. Decorated fl amboyantly by Italian artists, the hotel has spacious rooms with terracotta tiles, cherry wood furniture and a top-fl oor breakfast room.QB-5, Hohenzollerndamm 33, Wilmersdorf, MU Fehrbelliner Platz, tel. +49 30 86 88 90, [email protected], www.senscity-albergo.de. 36 rooms (singles €75 - 125, doubles €85 - 135). TALGBKW

SYLTER HOFSylt may be a skinny island in the North Sea, but these suites in a high-rise are fat. For the cost of a normal room in Berlin, you get a fully equipped kitchen too (a supermarket is across the street) and rates go down for longer stays.QD-3, Kurfürstenstraße 114-116, Schöneberg, MU Wittenbergplatz, tel. +49 30 212 00, [email protected], www.sylterhof-berlin.de. 160 rooms (80 singles €69 - 120, 40 doubles €99 - 180, 40 suites €129 - 210). HAG hhh

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On a low hill northeast of Mitte, ‘Prenzl’ Berg’ is an old working-class district in the former East Berlin that came through the war relatively unscathed. After 1989, the cool brigade pounced on the area, and houses that were once home to East German punks were renovated in odes to pastel. The number of wine shops and young parents pushing

pricey prams indicates the level of gentrifi cation here. The best places to soak up the atmosphere are Kollwitzplatz, Helmholzplatz and along Kastanienallee. One of Prenzlauer Berg’s best attractions is the Kulturbrauerei culture centre, set in a 19th-century brewery complex. This chapter also covers some places in multicultural Wedding, just to the west.

Getting thereThe U2 from Alexanderplatz feeds crowds onto Senefel-derplatz and Eberswalder Straße, close to most attractions. From Museumsinsel and Friedrichstraße you can use tram M1 to Eberswalder Straße as well. U-Bahn station Bernauer Straße and S-Bahn station Nordbahnhof are most conven-ient for a stroll along the Wall Memorial to Mauerpark.

Pocket Walk: Prenzlauer BergStart walking uphill along Kollwitzstraße from U-Bahn station Senefelder Platz. From leafy Kollwitzplatz turn into beautiful Husemannstraße, which was already restored in GDR times, and left into Sredzkistraße where you’ll spot the Kulturbrauerei complex ahead; enter beside the tall chimney and wander through its courtyards to the northern exit. Cross Danziger Straße and amble down Lychenerstraße to pretty, café-lined Helmholtzplatz. Follow Raumerstraße west, turn left down Pappelallee and cross underneath the U-Bahn station to Eberswalder Straße; you’ll soon reach the popular Mauerpark and the top end of Bernauer Straße with its excellent Wall Memorial.

HOTEL

PRECISE MYER’SEntered from a quiet courtyard, Myer’s is an upmarket private hotel with smallish, classically furnished rooms overlooking the garden. On the ground fl oor, a tearoom has a pleasant summer terrace.QH-2, Metzer Straße 26, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Senefelder Platz, tel. +49 30 44 01 40, [email protected], www.myershotel.de. 51 rooms (8 singles €75 - 135, 33 doubles €85 - 185, 1 suite €195 - 345, 10 Premium €115 - 265). HARG


Prenzlauer BergPrenzlauer Berg

GERMAN DIE SCHULEModern and light German food on Berlin’s prime catwalk. Kastanienallee, also known as casting alley, is a perfect place to watch Berlin street style. Die Schule has a terrace facing the street and the airy interiors belie that these rooms used to be classrooms (hence the name). You can have all the German food classics, and even better: you can have them all at once: try German Kleinigkeiten, small samples of everything the local cuisine is famous for.QG-2, Kastanienallee 82, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49 30 780 08 95 50, www.restaurant-die-schule.de. Open 11:00 - 24:00. BW

RESTAURATION 1900Our Kollwitzplatz favourite, 1900 exhibits some fascinating photographs of the neighbourhood before (Trabant) and after (Smart) 1989. It serves excellent Berlin and German food, as well as some pasta and vegetarian options. Come on Saturday morning to watch locals shopping at the weekly market, and on Sundays to fi ll up at the all-you-can-eat breakfast buff et.QH-2, Husemannstraße 1, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49 30 442 24 94, www.restauration1900.de. Open 10:00 - 23:00. €-€€. TBSW

ZANDERThis award-winning restaurant is a fi ne blend of tradition, innovation, and casual professionalism. Using mainly regional products, Zander serves mouth-watering German and international cuisine and excellent wines in a stylish and intimate setting. Though zander (pike-perch) is a house speciality, the perfectly-composed set menus are highly recommended.QG-2, Kollwitzstraße 50, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Senefelder Platz, tel. +49 30 44 05 76 78, www.zander-restaurant.de. Open 18:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon. B

FAST FOOD KONNOPKE’S IMBISSThe Ziervogel family started selling their famous Wursts in 1930. This simple shack is a convenient stop for those spilling out of the Eberswalder Straße U-Bahn; the Imbiss is just south, beneath the tracks. To eat your Currywurst like a true native, order it ohne darm (without the intestine skin wrapping).QG-1, Schönhauser Allee 44b, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49 30 442 77 65, www.konnopke-imbiss.de. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. €.

INTERNATIONAL FLEISCHLUSTA spot for those with healthy lust for fl esh can grill ‘n chill. Staff in 1930s outfi ts serve excellent steaks, cooked anything from blue (extremely rare) to well done. For the undecided, there’s a mixed grill, while the thirsty can delve into the wine and cocktail menu.QH-1, Pappelallee 36, Prenzlauer Berg, MS/U Schönhauser Allee, tel. +49 30 44 67 54 14, www.fl eischlust-berlin.de. Open 17:00 - open end.

GUGELHOFDuring the early bloom of Kollwitzplatz’s gentrifi cation, the success of little Gugelhof was sealed by heads of state: Schröder, Fischer, Albright and even Bill Clinton made surprise visits. German, French, and Swiss dishes share the menu; this is where to try fl ammekuchen, a thin-crust Alsatian pizza. The atmosphere is lively and service is friendly.QH-2, Knaackstraße 37, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49 30 442 92 29, [email protected], www.gugelhof.com. Open 16:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. €€. A

ITALIAN PIZZERIA I DUE FORNIAtypical for Berlin, this Italian restaurant is not very chic, the service is rather cheeky, and the whole place has the feel of an overcrowded student canteen. But the cheap pizza is highly praised, and the lively, convivial atmosphere of i Due Forni is the perfect primer for a night out on the town.QG-2, Schönhauser Allee 12, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Senefelder Platz, tel. +49 30 44 01 73 33. Open 12:00 - 24:00. UB

JAPANESE SUSHI IMBISS AM WASSERTURMDiscounts at happy hour (weekdays 13:00 - 16:00) crowd this fi ve-table joint, but there’s takeout as well. Sake Maki, California Make and vegetarian items all run about €3. All sushi-lovers speak some Japanese, but if you need any explanations, the Japanese owner/chef and staff speak English.QH-2, Rykestraße 45, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Senefelderplatz, tel. +49 30 44 04 57 06. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. €€.

CAFÉS ANNA BLUMENamed after a lyrical poem and with a sexy Mucha fl ower girl on the wall, this is an excellent, relaxed café. Serving up coff ee, cakes, crepes, meals and the usual Berlin breakfasts, it’s one of the better spots for people-watching or just reading. Intriguingly, it also sells fl owers (Blume) from the connected shop next door – and the smell of coff ee and fresh fl owers combines very well.QH-2, Kollwitzstraße 83, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Senefelder Platz, tel. +49 30 44 04 87 49, www.cafe-anna-blume.de. Open 08:00 - 02:00.

SCHALL UND RAUCH‘Noise and Smoke’ is a great place to enjoy a breakfast buff et on lazy weekend mornings, or to down specials at the bar at night together with a variety of artists, students and young in-crowd. But it’s more than just a café - the adjacent hotel has modern and aff ordable double rooms.QG-1, Gleimstraße 23, Prenzlauer Berg, MS/U Schönhauser Allee, tel. +49 30 443 39 70, www.schall-und-rauch.de. Open 08:00 - 02:00.

Nightlife

BARS AUGUST FENGLERA neighbourhood bar if there ever was one, there aren’t just football tables downstairs, but a Kegelbahn (bowling alley) too. The team behind the big wooden bar is friendly, and the seating area is an undulating mass of coats and groups of friends yakking up a storm. DJs play classics, soul, disco, and funk in the small back dance room.QG-1, Lychner Straße 11, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, www.augustfengler.de. Open 19:00 - 05:00.

SANTIAGOThis cocktail lounge overlooking Kollwitzplatz has a somewhat dodgy interior – leather sofas and glitzy girl statues that wouldn’t look out of place in a nightclub – but manages to get the punters in with a range of attractively priced off ers like cocktails during the happy (before 20:00) and blue hours (from 01:00). There’s an eat-all-you-can dinner on Wednesday and brunch at weekends.QH-2, Wörtherstraße 36, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalderstraße, tel. +49 30 441 25 55. Open 16:00 - 03:00.

WEINSTEINAn older crowd savours an evening of conversation and wine at this cosy wine tavern. Pick a meal to help anchor the 40 vintages available by the glass. There are few better places to try the outstanding German whites that usually don’t make it out of the country and there’s also a selection of sherries.QH-1, Lychener Straße 33, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49 30 441 18 42, [email protected], www.weinstein.eu. Open 17:00 - 02:00, Sun 18:00 - 02:00.

WOHNZIMMERIf the TV show Friends had to relocate to Berlin, Phoebe would vote to hang out here. The large ‘living room’ is ideally set up for meeting people. Stools, chairs and GDR-era tables are constantly being shuffled to make room for the rumpled but attractive crowds. There’s coffee and pastries in the morning.QH-1, Lettestraße 6, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49 30 445 54 58, www.wohnzimmer-bar.de. Open 09:00 - 04:00.

CLUBS GEBURTSTAGSKLUBTwenty year-olds fill the two low-ceilinged rooms of this otherwise spacious cellar. Don’t miss the mad monthly drag party with Nina Queer. Like at many clubs in Berlin, you have to brave the walk down a dark courtyard.QH-2, Am Friedrichshain 33, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Schillingstraße, tel. +49 30 42 02 14 05, www.geburtstagsklub.de. Open Fri, Sat, Sun 23:00 - 06:00.


Modern and light German food on Berlin‘s catwalk no.1

Eberswalder Str. Rosenthaler PlatzU8U2

KASTANIENALLEE 82 | 10435 BERLINFON: (030) 78 00 89 [email protected]

DAILY 11.00 –24.00

Die Schule

TOURIST INFORMATION

PRENZLAUER BERG TOURIST INFORMATION CENTREPrenzlauer Berg’s district tourist information centre is inside the Kulturbrauerei complex. Staff advise about events, nightlife, guided tours and sights.QG-1/2, Schönhauser Allee 36, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49 30 44 35 21 70, www.tic-berlin.de. Open 11:00 - 19:00.


FriedrichshainPrenzlauer Berg

SODA CLUBIn the courtyard of the Kulturbrauerei complex, Soda is a fun club with an enthusiastic regular crowd. Salsa is played on Thursdays and Sundays (€5, starting off with a lesson hour), and on Fridays and Saturdays there’s five dancefloors with electro, crossover, black and dance classics - girls get in for free until 01:00.QSchönhauser Allee 36, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49 30 443 151 55, [email protected], www.soda-berlin.de. Open , Thu 20:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 07:00, Sun 19:00 - 04:00 Open Thu-Sun 19:00 - 04:00.

Sightseeing

LANDMARKS KULTURBRAUEREIFollow the yellow brick wall of this 19th-century brewery and you’ll eventually fi nd an entryway into a nightlife Mecca that resembles an Old Town setting. A cobblestone pedestrian way courses through the centre of the complex, whose 25,000 square metres is fi lled with bars, restaurants, clubs, galleries and a cinema. The only thing you won’t fi nd is freshly brewed beer; Schultheiss shut down production here in 1967. Soda Club is a both a restaurant and popular nightclub, and Kesselhaus and Alte Kantine host anything from readings to theater to live bands.QG-2, Schönhauser Allee 36-39, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalderstraße, tel. +49 30 44 31 51 52, www.kulturbrauerei.de.

MUSEUMS ZIMMERMEISTER BRUNZEL’S MIETSHAUSGentrifi cation has transformed many Prenzlauer Berg apartments into deluxe dream houses; this fascinating museum shows master carpenter Brunzel’s apartment in its original state, with extensive information about its construction, utilities, furnishing and the often squalid living conditions around 1900 in Prenzlauer Berg and Berlin.QH-1, Dunckerstraße 77, Prenzlauer Berg, MS Prenzlauer Allee, tel. +49 30 445 23 21, www.ausstellung-dunckerstrasse.de. Open 11:00 - 16:30. Closed Wed. Admission €2/1.

PARKS AND GARDENS MAUERPARKThe immensely popular ‘Wall Park’ has no greenery to speak of; this is an intensely used piece of former border strip that’s especially busy on Sundays when it hosts a fl ea market and the immensely popular Bearpit Karaoke (every second Sunday from 15:00), where anyone can grab the microphone and sing for a crowd of thousands.QG-1, Eberswalder Straße, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, www.mauerpark.info.

Shopping

BOOKS SHAKESPEARE & SONSAn excellent little living-room style bookshop that came to Berlin from Prague, selling used and new English-language books as well as coff ee, tea, cakes and snacks. Leaf through a classic novel while munching on banana bread.QH-1, Raumerstraße 36, Prenzlauer Berg, MS Prenzlauer Allee, tel. +49 30 40 00 36 85. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00.

FASHION & SHOES TAUSCHE TASCHEN

Bags with exchangeable fl aps in over 100 diff erent designs. Two fl aps are included and various insets equip the bag to suit any occasion.QH-1, Raumerstraße 8, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49 30 40 30 17 70, [email protected], www.tausche.de. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.

MARKETS FLOHMARKT AM MAUERPARKVegan snacks, bicycles, crafts, clothing, alternative souvenirs and antiques - it’s all available (though not particularly cheap) at the weekly Mauerpark fl ea market. Arrive early to avoid the crowds.QG-1, Bernauer Straße 63-64, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Bernauer Straße, tel. 0176 29 25 00 21, www.mauerparkmarkt.de. Open , Sun 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat Open Sun 09:00-15:00.

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Friedrichshain is a lively old workers district that has com-pletely been taken over by rad nightlife venues, graffi ti and leftist students moaning about Touri’s encroaching on their favourite watering holes. Tree-lined Simon-Dach-Straße is full of cafés and bars, while Boxhagener Platz hosts the pop-ular Sunday fl eamarket. In the former border zone along the river, the ‘MediaSpree’ development plans for offi ces, apart-ments and skyscrapers is passionately opposed by many vo-cal locals who fear they’ll lose public access to the river. This chapter also includes suburban sights east of Friedrichshain.

Getting thereFrom Mitte, hop on a train to S/U-Bahn station Warschauer Straße, or to U-Bahn station Frankfurter Tor. From Nordbahnhof or Prenzlauer Berg catch the M10 tram, known as the party tram at night.

Pocket Walk: FriedrichshainGet off the S- or U-Bahn at Warschauer Straße; enjoy the city panorama from the bridge and glance back at the dainty red-brick Oberbaumbrücke bridge before heading north into the district. Turn right on Revaler Straße and left on Simon-Dach-Straße for Friedrichshain’s most touristy stretch of bars and cafés. A right on Krossener Straße takes you to Boxi, Boxhagener Platz, scene of the excellent Sunday fl ea market. Walk north along Gärtnerstraße and Mainzer Straße to reach the grand Stalinist-style Frankfurter Allee. Follow this west (it becomes Karl-Marx-Allee) and turn right onto Friedenstraße for a stroll and a beer in Volkspark Friedrichshain.


GERMAN KEULEKeule, pronounced ‘coy-ler’ and berlinerisch for ‘bro’, is an authentic corner in an increasingly international district. It serves regional cuisine classics such as soljanka soup, a hefty farmer’s breakfast, traditional pork knuckle, cured smoked pork and berry compote dessert. Later on, there’s cocktails and sports on the large screen.QSimon-Dach-Straße 22, Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer Straße, tel. +49 30 22 34 55 01, www.keule-berlin.de. Open from 12:00. €€. AUB

Keule


FriedrichshainFriedrichshain

SCHNEEWEISSSchneeweiß is extremely stylish, very popular, and very, very white. The delicious Alpine and ‘new German cuisine’ on the menu here is easily a match for the chic interior, which has won accolades for its fantastic design. This is the place to go if you’re looking for a full-on dining experience, not just food.QSimplonstraße 16, Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer Straße, tel. +49 30 29 04 97 04, www.schneeweiss-berlin.de. Open 18:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 01:00. €€. TGBS

ASIAN GLORY DUCKExcellent Vietnamese-style Peking duck. This gorgeous new place serves crispy, freshly grilled duck, served with ginger-mango sauce, orange sauce, red curry and other toppings.

Or go for Vietnamese standards such as Pho or one of the vegetarian options. There’s a good selection of drinks and Asian cocktails too. The design alone is reason to drop by; the dark Feng Shui interior has interesting perspective lines, there’s a large harbour scene on one wall and the toilets are decorated with 13000 psychedelic stickers.QI-4, Sonntagstraße 31, Friedrichshain, MS Ostkreuz, tel. +49 30 63 96 53 31, www.gloryduck.de. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. €€. AUBSW

INTERNATIONAL SAN DIEGO STEAKHOUSEGreat steaks and drinks at low prices with friendly service – what more does a meat-lover want? There’s a good choice of beef and other meats, even a few vegetarian options.QI-3, Karl-Marx-Allee 141, Friedrichshain, MU Frankfurter Tor, tel. +49 30 42 02 37 77. Open 11:00 - 24:00. €. TUNGBS

CUPCAKE BERLINThe very fi rst thing that we learnt to bake together with our mothers is now a fashionable little dessert snack with its own café dedicated to it. Try ‘The King’ cupcake (with Elvis’ favourite ingredients), the sweet ‘Pretty in Pink’ or any of the other 20-odd creations. There’s a good breakfast and coff ee served at Cup Cake too.QJ-4, Krossener Straße 12, Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer Straße, tel. +49 30 25 76 86 87, www.cupcakeberlin.de. Open 12:00 - 19:00. TUVNGBSW

CAFÉS KAFFEELADENThe perfect coff eeshop – small and relaxed, with groovy wallpaper. The laden serves fabulous coff ee, tea, Indian chai and home-made cakes.QI-4, Simon-Dach-Straße 41a, Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer Straße, tel. +49 30 29 04 89 16. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. UNGBS

MACONDOMacondo was the setting of García Márquez’ novel 100 Years of Solitude, and you could say that its languid tropical atmosphere perseveres in this wonderful ‘reading café’. There’s old furniture to sink in to, views over the Sunday market, good coff ee and original South American mate tea, sipped through a silver straw. Bring a book, and time.QI-4, Gärtnerstraße 14, Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer Straße, tel. +49 30 54 73 59 43, [email protected], www.macondo-berlin.de. Open 15:00 - 02:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 02:00. BW

Nightlife

BARS CRACK BELLMERA barn of a bar amidst all the clubs in the formerly industrial RAW compound. Crack Bellmer is not just a place for drinking however; there’s fi lm screenings, and a good-sized space for dancing to DJs at 80s or swing nights. Find the entrance at the southern end of Simon-Dach-Straße.QI-4, Revaler Straße 99, Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer Straße, www.crackbellmer.de. Open 19:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon. UNB

CLUBS BERGHAINA legendary techno club. Pretty much anything goes on the main dance floor, in the Panorama Bar and in the dark rooms of this huge old power plant. The doorman picks from the queue of hopefuls to create the right mix, so parties are always varied and exciting. Arrive early Sunday morning for the best atmosphere. There are concerts and events on weekdays too, and in summer an outdoor Diskogarten.QI-3/4, Am Wriezener Bahnhof, Friedrichshain, MS Ostbahnhof, tel. +49 30 29 36 02 10, www.berghain.de. Open Fri 24:00 - Sat 12:00, Sat 24:00 - Mon 09:00. UNGBW

SISYPHOSA legendary electro, techno and house club in an industrial setting, far away from the rest of the club scene. Wear mad clothes, plan to stay the night and just undergo it all. Tram N°21 from Ostkreuz to the Gustav-Holzmann-Straße stop.QHauptstraße 15, Lichtenberg, MS Ostkreuz, www.sisyphos-berlin.net.

GAY NIGHTLIFE DIE BUSCHEDon’t be fooled by The Bush’s name, this dance club is not just for lesbians. This gay club dates back to GDR days.QI-4, Warschauer Platz 18, Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer Straße, tel. +49 30 296 08 00, www.diebusche.de. Open Wed 22:00-05:00; Fri, Sat 22:00-07:00. Admission €3.50-6. UENGB

Shopping

FASHION & SHOES TAUSCHE TASCHENBags with exchangeable fl aps in over 100 diff erent designs. Two fl aps are included and various insets equip the bag to suit any occasion.QKrossener Straße 19, Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer Straße, tel. +49 30 34 71 11 50, www.tausche.de. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.

MARKETS FLOHMARKT AM BOXHAGENER PLATZThe fl eamarket on the Boxi may be the funkiest place to trawl though junk. There’s everything from 1970s tape recorders to Polish art posters and second-hand clothing.QJ-4, Boxhagener Platz, Friedrichshain, MU Frankfurter Tor, tel. +49 162 292 30 66. Open , Sun 10:00 - 18:00 Open Sun 10:00 - 18:00.

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030 / 63 96 53 31 // gloryduck.de

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ASIAN KIMCHI PRINCESSThough this is not Berlin’s fi rst Korean restaurant, Kimchi Princess is being hailed by the capital’s gourmets as the fi rst one to serve authentic dishes – that is, not drowned in cream and sauce like most Asian food here. It’s indeed excellent and spicy, and as a result it can be diffi cult to fi nd a free table in the evening.QH-4, Skalitzer Straße 36, Kreuzberg, MU Görlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 163 458 02 03, www.kimchiprincess.com. Open 18:00 - 01:00. €€. TUGBSW

SAROD’SKreuzberg’s friendliest Thai restaurant. The food is excellent, healthy, fresh and gluten-free, with some unusual options on the extensive menu such as the Lab (minced meat with roast rice, coriander and spices). There’s a good selection of wines too.QFriesenstraße 22, Kreuzberg, MU Gneisenaustraße, tel. +49 30 69 50 73 33, www.sarods.de. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. €€. TGBSW

AUSTRIAN JOLESCHExcellent Austrian cuisine and wines in a quirky corner of Kreuzberg. Jolesh, a classy yet good-value restaurant, is named after ‘Tante Jolesch’, a Viennese auntie who loved to cook. It serves a great Wiener Schnitzel as well as dishes like goulash and Kaiserschmarrn, chopped-up pancakes with

sugar and fruit jam. Breakfast is served until 17:00, so take your time for brunch. Reservations recommended.QH-4, Muskauer Straße 1, Kreuzberg, MU Görlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 612 35 81, www.jolesch.de. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 09:30 - 24:00. €€. GB

RIEHMERSThe elegant and understated Riehmers restaurant serves a fantastic Wiener Schnitzel (breaded veal escalope), amongst seasonal dishes like roast pike perch and crepes with roast apricots. The dining room is kept bare and simple, while the calm summer terrace in the garden overlooks a historic apartment complex for Prussian offi cers.QF-5, Hagelbergerstraße 9, Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30 78 89 19 80, www.riehmers-restaurant.de. Open 18:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon. €€-€€€. TGBSW

Thanks to a large Turkish community and more hip-pies, anarchists and alter-native folks than you can shake a bong at, Kreuzberg feels neither east nor west. It was the black sheep of West Berlin, literally cor-nered up against the death strip and left alone to play loud music and draw on the walls. By now, the pro-testing students of 1968 have grown grey alongside

the Turkish immigrants. Every year since 1987, Kreuzberg relives its 15 minutes of fame during the traditional May Day political demonstrations, which invariably turn into a long night of stone-throwing and burning cars. Otherwise, Kreuzberg is a perfectly safe district to wander through, and it’s all about backgammon at the men’s clubs, café-sitting along Landwehrkanal, and ambling down the popular Ora-nienstraße and Bergmannstraße drags.This chapter also covers areas south of Kreuzberg: leafy Treptow west along the river Spree, the Tempelhof airport-turned-park which attracts thousands of visitors in summer, and the upcoming Neukölln district. Here, the Kreuzkölln area around Reuterstraße is increasingly attracting hipsters, artists, artsy boutiques and weird nightlife spots.

Getting thereThe Bergmannstraße area is best reached from Friedrichstraße station on the U6; get off at Mehringdamm, or at Platz der Luftbrücke for the Viktoriapark. For the gritty end of Kreuzberg hop on the U8 from Alexanderplatz and pop up at Kottbusser Tor. The Kreuzkölln bars are within pubcrawling distance of Schönleinstraße and Hermannplatz stations, on the same line.

Pocket Walk: KreuzbergKreuzberg is best explored in two parts. From Platz der Luftbrücke station walk west to Viktoriapark and climb the Kreuzberg for views north over the city. Descend eastwards and walk along genteel Bergmannstraße, perhaps visiting a café or the market hall, before walking south to Columbiadamm for access to the the former Tempelhof airport, now a wonderful park.Start a tour of the fascinating eastern end of Kreuzberg at Kottbusser Tor U-Bahn station; wander north through ‘little Istanbul’ to Oranienplatz and follow the park to the Engelbecken pond where you can follow the former Wall along Bethaniendamm to Mariannenplatz, a centre of Berlin subculture. Stroll down Waldemarstraße to café-lined Lausitzerplatz and cross under the U-Bahn line to lively Görlitzer Park. From here, go north into Falckensteinstraße to discover more of Kreuzberg’s street art, or head south along Ohlauer Straße and across Landwehrkanal into the trendy ‘Kreuzkölln’ district for cupcakes and cocktails.

Restaurants & Cafés PAGODESimply one of the best Thai restaurants in town. It feels crowded, steamy and noisy, but that’s just part of the authentic self-service atmosphere; wait

till you sink your teeth in the fantastic food. The open kitchen uses fresh vegetables and herbs that are fl own in from Bangkok; all the Thai classics are present. There’s seating indoors and in the basement room, as well as outside. Ask if you like it hot.QF-5, Bergmannstraße 88, Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30 691 26 40, www.pagode-thaifood.de. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €. VBS

Thai restaurant

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Thai restaurant

Sarod’s Jolesch


KreuzbergKreuzberg

FAST FOOD

GLÜCK TO GOThis unusual fast-food restaurant was inspired by a trip to India’s Gujarat province and serves happiness to go: delicious protein-rich vegetarian/vegan burgers, fries with ayurvedic spices, and healthy juice concoctions; all home-made with organic and regionally sourced ingredients. The delicious Orient Express burger has beet root, spices and special date chutney, and there’s three other burgers to choose from. Finish off with a low-fat Shrikhand yoghurt. Set menus from €6-8,50.QF-5, Friesenstraße 26, Kreuzberg, MU Gneisenaustraße, tel. +49 30 623 10 04, www.glueck-to-go.de. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. €. B

ITALIAN GORGONZOLA CLUBAn In Your Pocket favourite, serving the best and biggest carpaccio we’ve had, and with lovely seating in the green outdoor courtyard. The prices for the fresh pastas, pizzas and other dishes are by all means reasonable, and there are additional changing dinner options too. For after-dinner cocktails simply go next door to the Würgeengel bar.QH-4, Dresdener Straße 121, Kreuzberg, MU Kottbusser Tor, tel. +49 30 615 64 73, www.gorgonzolaclub.de. Open 18:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 02:00. €. B

OSTERIA N°1Next to Viktoriapark, this neighbourhood fi xture has a fantastic Biergarten bordered by lemon, cherry and olive trees. Classic regional cuisine is prepared by cooks from diff erent parts of Italy, and everything is made fresh to order. Order a pasta with Toscan hare ragout or salmon in orange sauce. Perhaps the most child-friendly place in town, too. Choose from six diff erent lunch menus from €7.QF-5, Kreuzbergstraße 71, Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30 786 91 62, www.osteria-uno.de. Open 12:00 - 01:00. €€. B

VICOLO BERGMANNTasty Sicilian food is served at this rustic restaurant on the sunny side of the street. Fresh quality meat, seafood and vegetables are used to make the authentic pastas, pizzas or the meat and fi sh dishes, and there’s home-made bread too. The small uncluttered space with randomly exposed bricks is decorated with newspaper cuttings. Don’t miss the sinfully sweet Sicilian desserts.QF-5, Bergmannstraße 88, Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30 69 00 44 88, [email protected], www.vicolo-bergmann.de. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€.

CAFÉS CAFÉ AM ENGELBECKENOpposite the impressive, partially-restored St. Michael’s church is a pond, sunk into a depressed parkway that was once a canal. Hidden away at the reedy edge of the pond is a sunny terrace café. View of the water and the rustling tall green reeds makes this a peaceful respite from all things city while still being near the heart of Kreuzberg (and can you believe this area was once fi lled with rubble, and part of the Wall’s death strip?). Pizza and snacks are served and they off er a choice of cocktails.QH-4, Michaelkirchplatz, Mitte, MU Heinrich-Heine-Straße, tel. +49 157 88 94 70 91, www.cafe-am-engelbecken.de. Open 10:00 - 24:00. €. TUNGBSW

Osteria N°1

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BERGMANN CURRYA friendly fast food joint with qual-ity organic Currywurst, fries, meat balls and more. The menus include the upmarket ‘Rockefella’ dish (served on porcelain, with a glass of champagne), and there’s vegan wurst and burgers, and sweet po-

tato chips too. If you dare, ask for a drop of searing hot chilli sauce from the bottles on the ‘board of pain’.QBerg-mannstraße 88, tel. +49 50 56 51 54, www.bergmann-curry.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00.


KreuzbergKreuzberg

KUCHENKAISERA melting pot for Berliners, their friends and visitors since 1866, the “cake emperor” is famous for its cakes and tarts, which were sent exclusively by the Hindenburg to New York in the 1920s. The restaurant also has a wide variety of German specialities and international dishes. There’s a great choice of breakfasts, a low-cost lunch, and a huge brunch on Sundays. A must-see in Berlin.QG/H-4, Oranienplatz 11-13, Kreuzberg, MU Moritzplatz, tel. +49 30 61 40 26 97, www.kuchenkaiser.de. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00. €€. B

Nightlife

BARS GALANDERA wonderfully classic bar, furnished with 1920s-style fauteuils and woodwork. Apart from beer, Galander has an excellent selection of wine and can mix some quite unusual cocktails for you. Occasionally the piano is played too. Recommended for a quality night out.QF-4, Grossbeerenstraße 54, Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30 28 50 90 30, www.galander-berlin.de. Open 18:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon. E

MILCHBARIt is the foam of beer that lines the upper lip of patrons of Milchbar, home to punks, students, and aging alternative types still loyal to the sounds of punk, ska, thrash, and hard rock. The crowd is not so anarchic as to not want to cheer on their teams when football games are screened. The murals and dark décor can heighten your wooziness if you’ve had one round too many.QH-4, Manteuff elstraße 41, Kreuzberg, MU Görlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 611 70 06, www.milchbar-berlin.de. Open 17:00 - 04:00. NBW

WÜRGEENGELPronounced woor-ge-en-gel and named after Bunuel’s fi lm El Ángel Exterminador, this dark brown bar is a great place for a drink and a snack. The tapas list has a dozen tasty

options, while the cocktail menu has over 50 reasons to delay your departure. To round it all off , there are Cuban and other cigars to enjoy.QH-4, Dresdener Straße 122, Kreuzberg, MU Kottbusser Tor, tel. +49 30 615 55 60, www.wuergeengel.de. Open from 19:00. €€. B

CLUBS SO36Live bands perform nearly every night at this institution that’s home to any alternative lifestyle, from gay Turks and metal heads to hardcore punks and goth vegans. On pop-ular club nights, like the Ugly X Bad Taste Party or Gayhane, show up before 01:00 or face a long wait with the friendly door staff .QH-4, Oranienstraße 190, Kreuzberg, MU Görlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 61 40 13 06, www.so36.de. Check their website for opening times. UENG

WILD AT HEARTRock on. One of Berlin’s rare live-music venues brings in hardcore and punk bands touring the planet. There’s an occasional DJ night as well. Booths and seating in the front rooms make conversation manageable. Bring earplugs for the stage area.QH-5, Wiener Straße 20, Kreuzberg, MU Görlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 610 74 701, www.wildatheartberlin.de. Open 20:00 - 04:00. ENB

Sightseeing

LANDMARKS TEMPELHOF AIRPORT TERMINAL (ZENTRAL-FLUGHAFEN)The Tempelhof Airport terminal, now used for events, was con-structed in the 1930s, but the interior of the massive 1300-me-tre-long complex was never fi nished. The history is impressive: the Prussian army paraded here, in 1909 Orville Wright broke records by fl ying higher and longer than ever before, and in 1948 the fi rst round of the Cold War was won when the Allied airlift beat the Soviet blockade. Two-hour English-language tours take you from the apron and the main hall, down into the air raid bunkers and onto the roof.QPlatz der Luftbrücke, MU Platz der Luftbrücke, tel. +49 30 200 03 74 41, www.tempelhoferfreiheit.de. Guided tours in English on Sat at 15:00, Sun at 10:30. Tickets €12/9, children €6.

MUSEUMS BERLINISCHE GALERIEThis museum for modern art, photography, architecture, and artist archives concentrates 120 years worth of creativity forged in Berlin. Artists represent the Secession, Expressionist, Dada, New Objectivity movements, and those representing the divided Berlin. Giants of German art include Heinrich Zille, Otto Dix, George Grosz, Hannah Höch and Wolf Vostell.QG-4, Alte Jakobstraße 124-128, Kreuzberg, MU Hallesches Tor, tel. +49 30 78 90 26 00, www.berlinischegalerie.de. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue. Admission €8/5, first Mon €4. Free for visitors under 18.

WELTRESTAURANT MARKTHALLEWithin a historic market hall building, the rustic Markthalle restaurant is long and tall, with wainscoting, simple wooden furniture and a bar that locals belly up to. It’s a restaurant that doesn’t let its looks carry it: the kitchen takes pride in its nouvelle takes

on German and Austrian standards. The menu changes weekly, but count on Spätzle, Schweinebraten (braised pork), and apple strudel. Breakfasts run from Russian to American-style, and as late as 16:00. After dinner, check if anything is going down in the Auster Club in the cellar.QH-4, Pücklerstraße 34, Kreuzberg, MU Görlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 617 55 02, www.weltrestaurant-markthalle.de. Open 10:00 till late. €€. B


KreuzbergKreuzberg

DEUTSCHES TECHNIKMUSEUM (TECHNOLOGY MUSEUM)One of Berlin’s best museums is unmistakably recognisable by the Douglas C-47 plane suspended above the main building. The huge complex set in and around an old freight station rail depot has planes, trains, cars, bikes, computers, phones, radios and much more. Outside there are windmills and a brewery. There’s a hands-on Spectrum science centre for children too.QF-4, Trebbiner Straße 9, Kreuzberg, MU Gleisdreieck, tel. +49 30 90 25 40, www.sdtb.de. Open 09:00 - 17:30, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €6/3,5.

JÜDISCHES MUSEUM BERLIN (JEWISH MUSEUM)The famous zinc-plated fortress designed by Daniel Libeskind contains a moving perspective on the many ways in which German life and Jewish history are intricately interwoven. The interior contains dark ‘voids’ for contemplation, but the exhibits cover much more than the Holocaust chapter of Jewish history in Germany.QF-4, Lindenstraße 9-14, Kreuzberg, MU Hallesches Tor, tel. +49 30 25 99 33 00, www.jmberlin.de. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Mon 10:00 - 22:00. Admission €5/2,50, special exhibitions €4/2, combined ticket €7/3,50.

MARTIN-GROPIUS-BAUDusty pink brick, gilded mosaics, stucco work run riot - this is the work of Great Uncle Gropius, not Walter ‘Bauhaus’ Gropius. Completed in 1881, the beauty once held an arts and crafts museum. Today the Martin-Gropius-Bau hosts excellent touring exhibitions.QF-4, Niederkirchnerstraße 7, Kreuzberg, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 25 48 60, www.gropiusbau.de. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Tue.

TOPOGRAPHIE DES TERRORS (TOPOGRAPHY OF TERROR)Beside a souvenir-ravaged stretch of Wall, the cellars are all that remain of the palace housing the Reich Security (SS) Offi ce. The fascinating exhibition in the trench and the ad-jacent pavilion and park uses models, texts and photos to highlight the topography of the Third Reich police, military and security groups that were headquartered in this area, and discusses their organisation and the terror they cast across Europe. The most important lesson to take home is perhaps that these organisation only managed to thrive thanks to the continuous cooperation of many institutes and citizens. Set aside 2-3 hours to do it justice.QF-4, Niederkirchnerstraße 8, Kreuzberg, MU Kochstraße, tel. +49 30 25 45 09 50, www.topographie.de. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Admission free.

PARKS & GARDENS TEMPELHOFER FREIHEITWhere else can you run for fi ve minutes with your eyes closed? Berlin’s most amazing space is this historic and wide open airport just south of Kreuzberg, which closed in 2008 and was opened as a park in 2010. Now the runways and taxi lanes are used by bikers, inline skaters and kiteboarders; the fi elds around them are used by rare breeding skylarks (from April-July), picnickers, barbecuers, artists, kite-fl yers, gardeners and dog-walkers. There’s even a Biergarten at the northern end. Note that turnstiles allow exit from the park after closing time as well. Also easily accessed from U-Bahn stations Tempelhof and Boddinstrasse.QF/G-6, Columbiadamm, MS/U Tempelhof, www.tempelhoferfreiheit.de. Open March 06:00-19:00, April & Sept 06:00-20:30, May & Aug 06:00-21:30, June & July 06:00-22:30, Oct 07:00-19:00, Dec, Jan 07:30-17:00, Feb & Nov 07:00-18:00. Admission free.

VIKTORIAPARKBefore heading up the hill, crowned with Karl Friedrich Schinkel’s memorial to the Napoleonic Wars, go to the corner of Kreuzbergstraße and Großbeerenstraße for an eyeful of the park’s waterfall, constructed in the late 19th century. Kids stripped to their knickers wade in between the shallow, tiered levels. 65 metres above, people lean back against the graffi ti-laden monument to take in the panoramic view. Towards the back of the park, past a playground and off the Bacci fi eld, is the Golgotha beer garden. Running parallel to Kreuzbergstraße is a small petting zoo where children and goats get to meet and bleat.

Friesenstraße 26Berlin-Kreuzberg tel. 896 202 52

Mon - Sat: 11 - 21 • Sun: 12 - 19

www.glueck-to-go.dewww.facebook.com/GluckToGo

Der Wellfood-Imbiss

BERLINISCHE GALERIE

The Berlinische Galerie is one of the newest muse-ums in the German capital and collects art from Berlin dating from 1870 to the present day – with both a local and international fo-cus. Its outstanding collec-tions include Dada Berlin, the Neue Sachlichkeit (New Objectivity) and the East-ern European avant-garde. The art of the divided and reunifi ed city of Berlin pro-vides another focus.

Dorothy IannoneThis Sweetness Outside of Time. Paintings, Objects and Books 1959 to 2014Until 2 June Dorothy Iannone’s oeuvre includes painting and visual narrative, autobiographical texts and fi lms. Since the 1960s she has been seen as a pioneering spirit against censorship and for free love. The Berlinische Galerie shows her unique artistic opus in a major retrospective. Guided Tour in English: 2 June at 15:00.

Nik NowakEcho. GASAG Art Prize 201411 April – 30 June Nik Nowak (*1981 Mainz) has been awarded the GASAG Art Prize 2014. His projects investigate strategies for fi ll-ing space acoustically. At Berlinische Galerie Nowak has continued his work with sound objects and experimen-tal compositions. Guided Tour in English: 5 May at 15:00.

Art in Berlin 1945 until nowNew presentation of the collectionUntil 23 June The focus in our current presentation of the collection lies on painting, graphic art, sculpture, photography and architecture from the end of the Second World War to the present day. Key works in the collection are gathered thematically in four stylistic blocks: “Expressive”, “Con-structive”, “Realistic” and “Conceptual”. Guided Tour in English: 5 May at 15:00.

Markus DraperFrom the CollectionUntil 23 June The monumental installation Windsor Tower (2007) by Markus Draper (Görlitz, 1969) joins recently acquired paintings and a video-installation. Guided Tour in English: 7 April at 15:00.

Alte Jakobstraße 124–128

10969 Berlin

Wed–Mon 10am–6pm

www.berlinischegalerie.de

www.facebook.com/berlinischegalerie

BERLIN’S MUSEUM OF MODERN ART

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Dorothy Iannone, from: Dialogues (unnumbered), 1968, Sammlung Andersch, Neuss, © Dorothy Iannone, Photo: Markus Hawlik, Berlin


City tours River tours

BERLIN UNDERWORLDS

The Berlin Underworlds Association allows you to experience Berlin´s history from an unusual perspective, through its underground installations dating back to the Cold War, World War II, or earlier. Though predominantly in the spaces below Berlin´s Gesundbrunnen station, tours are also off ered in several other complexes that are usually not accessible to the public. With prior notifi cation, tours can be arranged for groups of minimum 20 people at other times.The following tours are held in English; they also take place in German and Spanish at other times, and various tours are held in Dutch, French, Italian and Danish.

Tour 1: Dark Worlds – A bunker from the Nazi era. Mar-Nov Mon 11:00 and 13:00, Wed-Sun 11:00; Dec-Feb Mon 11:00 and 13:00, Thu-Sun 11:00.Tour 2: From Flak Towers to Mountains of Debris. Enter a devastated albeit fascinating underground world. Apr 1 - Oct 31, Thu-Sun 16:00.Tour 3: Subways, Bunkers, Cold War – a political his-tory of Berlin from an unusual perspective. Mar-Nov Tues 11:00 and 13:00, Wed-Sun 13:00; Dec-Feb Thu-Sun 13:00.Tour M – Breaching the Berlin Wall: Subterranean escapes from East to West Berlin. Mar-Nov, Sun 10:30.

For further information see www.berliner-unterwelten.de. Tickets €10/8, Tour M €13/10 (no reservation required); the meeting point is at the southern entrance of the Gesundbrunnen U-Bahn station at Brunnenstraße 105, tel. +49 30 49 91 05 17.

BERLINER UNTERWELTEN E.V.Society for the Exploration and Documentation of Subterranean Architecture

Berlin from below Cold War and WW II bunker toursDifferent tours every day • see: www.berliner-unterwelten.de Subway: Gesundbrunnen (U8), southern entrance-hall • Brunnenstraße 105

There’s a story on every corner in Berlin, though you’ll need a guide to hear it. It’s a huge, fascinating city, but lacks a real Old Town-type area. Attractions are fairly far-fl ung, so plan your itinerary and get acquainted with the excellent public transportation. If you’re here for a limited amount of time, we highly recommend you join one of the walking or cycling tours to get your bearings and see the main sights.

BUS, CAR & PLANE TOURS BERLIN CITY TOUROpen-top doubledecker buses circle the main sights in about two hours; the green ones have live English commentary; red ones have audioguides. Board at Kurfürstendamm 14, the Town Hall or Brandenburger Tor and hop-on or hop-off as you like. There’s also a narrated ‘Wall & Lifestyle’ tour taking in the main Wall sights and some trendy districts.Qtel. +49 30 68 30 26 41, www.berlin-city-tour.de. Tickets €15/12/5.

CITY CIRCLE BUSESSeveral tour bus companies operate hop-on hop-off double-decker bus City Circle tours lasting 2.5 hours. Buses run every 10 minutes, with narration in a dozen languages. Kurfürstendamm 220 and Alexanderplatz are the two main starting points, but you can get on and off at some 20 stops.Qtel. +49 30 88 56 80 30, www.berolina-berlin.com. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Tickets €22/11. Afternoon ticket (from 13:30) €16,50/11.

TRABI SAFARIDrive your own Trabant; you are quickly shown how to operate the revolver-like gearshift and then off you go on a slow, one-hour trip through the eastern part of town in a column of up to six farting Trabis. Choose from a fleet of 100 colourful cars.QF-3, Zimmerstraße 97, Mitte, MU Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 27 59 22 73, www.trabi-safari.de. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Tickets €79-89 per person.

After fl owing a bucolic 400km from the Czech border region to Berlin, the river Spree goes out with a bang before disappearing into the Havel near Spandau. Cutting a curvy passage through Berlin, it provides tremendous views of the Dom cathedral, the Reichstag and the government district and the Berlin Wall near Ostbahnhof. Some of the Spree is diverted along park-lined canals, and Berlin has more bridges than Venice or Amsterdam.Short city centre cruise tours depart regularly from the boat landings near the Museumsinsel, Friedrichstraße, Hauptbahnhof station and the Haus der Kulturen der Welt in the park. The 3.5-hour Brücke (bridges) tours cruise past all the city centre sights, down Landwehrkanal and past the beautiful Oberbaumbrücke. Here we list your options with English narration. Sail away.

REEDEREI BWSGBesides the regular, short City Spreefahrt tour between the Haus der Kulturen der Welt and the Mühlendammschleuse locks, BWSG has a daily 2,5-hour East Side Tour that takes in the remains of the Wall and new developments in Eastern Berlin.QG-3, Spreepromenade, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 651 34 15, www.bwsg-berlin.de. Tickets €10,50/5,25; East Side tour €21/10,50.

REEDEREI RIEDELRiedel’s panorama ships off er 1-2 hour Stadtkernfahrt city centre tours up to 20 times per day, departing from near Hauptbahnhof, the Haus der Kulturen der Welt and Märkisches Ufer. The 1-3 hour Spreefahrt tour goes around all the main sights. The 2-3.5 hour Brückenfahrt tour sails several times daily from Märkisches Ufer. There’s an additional evening cruise.QE-3, Willy-Brandt-Straße (Ludwig-Erhard-Ufer jetty), Mitte, MS/U Hauptbahnhof, tel. +49 30 693 46 46, www.reederei-riedel.de. Tickets €10-20/5-10.

APP

10245 Berlin-Stralau, near Tunnelstrasse 36Tel. (030) 246 47 99 60

www.schiffskontor.de

... e.g. Moonlight-Trips with Aphrodite or Oskar

CHARTERTRIPS ON HISTORICAL BOATS

MS SCHIFFSKONTORRent an antique boat and sail just about anywhere on Berlin’s waterways. There’s the rustic open-top Oskar from 1930, or rent

the elegant Italian Afrodite, a pink beauty from 1950 in which you’ll look dashing with dark sunglasses and a fl owing scarf.Qtel. +49 30 246 47 99 60, www.schiff skontor.de.

REEDEREI WINKLERWinkler’s one-hour Stadtrundfahrt tours depart up to 10 times daily from beside Friedrichstraße station. The 3-3.5 hour Spreefahrt river tours from Schlossbrücke in Charlottenburg take in the river beyond the city centre sights. There are evening departures too, and check the website for the special culinary and party cruises.QF-3, Reichstagufer jetty, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstraße, tel. +49 30 349 95 95, www.reedereiwinkler.de. Tickets: Stadtrundfahrt €12/10, Spreefahrt €19-21/17-19.


Street RegisterAckerstraße F/G-2Adalbertstraße H-4Admiralstraße G/H-5Albrechtstraße F-3Alexanderplatz G-3Alexanderstraße G-3Alexanderufer F-2/3Alexandrinenstraße F-4Alt-Moabit C-3/E-3Alte Jakobstraße F-4Alte Schönhauser Straße G-2Altonaer Straße D-3Am Friedrichshain H-2Am Karlsbad F-4Am Kupfergraben F-3Am Ostbahnhof H-4Anhalter Straße F-4Arndtstraße F-5Augsburger Straße C/D-4Auguststraße F/G-2Axel-Springer-Straße F-4Barnimstraße H-2/3Baruther Straße F-5Bayerischer Platz D-5Bebelplatz F-3Behrenstraße F-3Belforter Straße G/H-2Bergmannstraße F/G-5Bernauer Straße F/G-1/2Bethaniendamm H-4Beusselstraße C-2Bismarckstraße B/C-3/4Bleibtreustraße C-4Blücherstraße F/G-5Bodestraße F-3Bötzowstraße H/I-2Brandenburger Tor F-3Breitscheidplatz C-4Brückenstraße H-3/4Brunnenstraße F/G-1/2Bülowstraße E-4/5Bundesallee C-4/6Charlottenstraße F-3/4Chausseestraße F-2Choriner Straße G-2Christinenstraße G-2Danziger Straße G-1/I-2

Dorotheenstraße F-3Dresdener Straße G-4Dunckerstraße H-1Ebertstraße F-3Engeldamm H-4Erkelenzdamm F-4Ernst-Reuter-Platz C-3Fasanenstraße C-4/5Fehrbelliner Straße G-2Fischerinsel G-3Französische Straße F-3Friedensstraße H-2/3Friedrichstraße F-3/4Gartenstraße F-1/2Gendarmenmarkt F-3Georgenkirchstraße H-2/3Georgenstraße F-3Gertraudenstraße G-3Geschw.-Scholl-Straße F-3Gipsstraße G-2Gitschiner Straße F-4Glinkastraße F-3Gneisenaustraße F/G-5Görlitzer Straße H/I-4/5Görlitzer Ufer I-5Gormannstraße G-2Greifswalder Straße H/I-1/2Grolmannstraße C-4Großbeerenstraße F-5Große Hamburger Straße G-2/3Gruner Straße G-3Hallesches Ufer F-4Hardenbergplatz C-4Heidestraße E-2Heinrich-Heine-Straße F-4Heinrichplatz H-4Hohenstaufenstraße D-5Immanuelkirchstraße H-2Invalidenstraße E-3/G-2Johannisstraße F-3John-Foster-Dulles-Allee E-3Kaiserdamm A/B-4Kaiserin-Augusta-Allee B/C-2Kantstraße B/C-4Karl-Liebknecht-Straße G-3Karl-Marx-Allee G/H/I-3Kastanienallee G-2

Kl. Hamburger Straße F-2Kleiststraße D/E-4Knaackstraße H-2Knesebeckstraße C-4Kochstraße F-4Kollwitzplatz H-2Kollwitzstraße G/H-2Konstanzer Straße B-4/5Köpenicker Straße H/I-4Kottbusser Damm H-5Kottbusser Straße H-5Krausnickstraße G-3Kreuzbergstraße F-5Kurfürstendamm A-5/C-4Kurfürstenstraße D/E-4Landsberger Allee H/I-2Lausitzer Straße H-4/5Legiendamm H-4Leipziger Platz F-4Leipziger Straße F/G-4Leuschnerdamm H-4Lindenstraße F/G-4Linienstraße F/G-2Lobeckstraße F-4Luisenstraße F-2/3Lützowufer D/E-4Manteuff elstraße H-4/5Marburger Straße D-4Mariannenplatz H-4Marienstraße F-3Markgrafenstraße F-3/4Martin-Luther-Straße D-4/6Matthäikirchstraße E-4Mauerstraße F-3/4Maybachufer H-5Mehringdamm F-5Mehringplatz F-4Meinekestraße C-4Melchiorstraße H-4Metzer Straße G/H-2Mittelstraße F-3Möckernstraße F-4/5Mohrenstraße F-3Molkenmarkt G-3Mollstraße H-2/3Mommsenstraße B/C-4Monbijoustraße F-3

Motzstraße C/D-4/5Mühlendamm G-3Mühlenstraße H/I-4Mulackstraße G-2Museumsinsel F-3Muskauer Straße H-4Niederkirchnerstraße F-4Niederwallstraße F-3Nollendorfstraße D/E-5Oberbaumstraße I-4Olivaer Platz B-4Oranienburger Straße F/G-2/3Oranienplatz F-4Oranienstraße F/G-4Otto-Braun-Straße G/H-3Otto-Suhr-Allee B/C-3Pappelallee G/H-1Pariser Platz F-3Paul-Lincke-Ufer H-5Perleberger Straße D/E-2Platz der Vereinten Nationen H-3Platz vor dem Neuen Tor F-2Potsdamer Platz E-4Potsdamer Straße E-4/5Prenzlauer Allee H-1/2Prinzenstraße F-4Pücklerstraße H-4Puschkinallee I-5Quedlinburger Straße B-3Rathausstraße G-3Reichenberger Straße G-4/I-5Reichpietschufer E-4Reichstagufer F-3Reinhardtstraße F-3Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz G-2Rosa-Luxemburg-Straße G-2/3Rosenthaler Straße G-2/3Rykestraße H-2Saarbrücker Straße G-2Savignyplatz C-4Schiff bauerdamm F-3Schloßplatz F-3Schloßstraße B-3Schlüterstraße C-4Schöneberger Straße F-4Schöneberger Ufer E-4Schönhauser Allee G-1/2

Schönleinstraße H-5Schumannstraße F-3Seydelstraße F-4Simon-Dach-Straße I-4Skalitzer Straße G-4/I-4Sophienstraße G-2/3Spandauer Damm A/B-3Spandauer Straße G-3Sredzkistraße H-2Stralauer Allee I-4Stralauer Platz H-4Stralauer Straße G-3Straßburger Straße G-2Straße der Pariser Kommune I-3/4Straße des-17. Juni C/E-3Stresemannstraße F-4Südstern G-5Tauentzienstraße D-4Tieckstraße F-2Tiergartenstraße D/E-4Torstraße F/G-2Tucholsky-Straße F-3Turmstraße C/D-2Uhlandstraße C-4/5Unter den Linden F-3Urbanstraße G/H-5Veteranenstraße G-2Voßstraße F-4Wadzeckstraße G/H-3Waldemarstraße H-4Wallstraße F/G-4Warschauer Platz I-4Warschauer Straße I-3/4Wassertorplatz F-4Weinbergsweg G-2Weinstraße H-2/3Werderstraße F-3Wiener Straße H/I-4/5Wilhelmstraße F-3/4Winterfeldtplatz D-5Winterfeldtstraße D/E-5Wörther Straße G/H-2Yorckstraße E/F-5Zimmerstraße F-4Zinnowitzer Straße F-2Zionskirchstraße G-2Zossener Straße F-5

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IndexAapka 21Adidas Originals 28Adidas Performance 40Adlon Kempinski 29Admiralspalast 9Aigner 20Alba Berlin 6Al Contadino Sotto Le Stelle 22Alexa Centre 28Alliiertenmuseum 39Alpenstueck 19Alt Berliner Biersalon 37Alte Nationalgalerie 28Altes Museum 28Anna Blume 45April 33A-Trane 38Aufsturz 22August Fengler 45August II 22Babylon Mitte 9Barcomi's Deli 22Bavarium 33Berghain 49Bergmann Curry 52Berlin, Berlin 42Berlin City Tour 58Berliner Dom 26Berliner Residenz Konzerte 9Berliner Trödelmarkt 29Berlinische Galerie 55Berlin Plaza 42Berlin Story 28Best Western President 42Bikini Berlin 40Black Box Cold War 26Bleibtreu 42Blue Man Group 10Books in Berlin 40Borchardt 20Brandenburger Tor 24Bröhan Museum 40Café am Engelbecken 53Café am Neuen See 37Café im Literaturhaus 37Cafe Kalwil 37Café Rix 54Central Kino 9CineStar IMAX & Original 9City Circle Buses 58Clärchens Ballhaus 24Comme des Garçons 29Crack Bellmer 49Cupcake Berlin 48Dalí - The Exhibition at Potsdamer Platz 26Das Stue 40Deutscher Dom 26Deutsches Historisches Museum 27Deutsches Technikmuseum 56Die Busche 49Diekmann 35Die Quadriga 34Die Schule 44Digital Eatery 22DomCurry 20

Dressler 21, 35Duke 35Einhorn 35El Dorado 37Ellington Hotel 42English Theatre Berlin 11Eschschloraque Rümschrümp 22Eventim 12Facil 20FC Union Berlin 7First Floor 34Fischers Fritz 21Fleischlust 44Flohmarkt am Boxhagener Platz 49Flohmarkt am Mauerpark 46Francucci's 36Französischer Dom 26Friedrichstadt-Palast 10Füchse Berlin 7Führerbunker 26Galander 54Galeries Lafayette 28Ganymed 21Geburtstagsklub 45Gedächtniskirche 39Gedenkstätte Berliner Mauer 27Gemäldegalerie 27Gendarmenmarkt 25Glory Duck 48Glück To Go 52Gorgonzola Club 52Grand Hotel Esplanade 42Green Door 37Grenander Morning Glory 37Gugelhof 44Habel Weinkultur 19Hackesche Höfe 9Hackescher Markt 31Halle Tanzbühne 11Hamburger Bahnhof 27Hebbel am Ufer 11Hefner 38Hekticket 12Hertha BSC 7Hilton 30Hinterm Horizont 10Honigmond & Garden Hotels 31Hôtel Concorde Berlin 40Hotel de Rome 30Hugos 35InterContinental 41Irish Harp 16, 38Jolesch 51Jolly 20Joseph Roth Diele 19Jüdisches Museum Berlin 56Käfer Dachgarten 20Kaffee Burger 23Kaffeeladen 49Kamala 20Kaufhaus des Westens 40Kempinski Bristol 41Keule 47Keyser Soze 19

Kilkenny Irish Pub 16, 24Kimchi Princess 51Knese 33Koka 36 12Komische Oper 9Konnopke's Imbiß 44Konzerthaus Berlin 9Kookaburra 12Ku'Damm 101 42Kulturbrauerei 46Kumpelnest 3000 23Kunst und Nostalgiemarkt 29La Forchetta 36Locanda 36Macondo 49Mandala 31Marjellchen 33Marooush 36Marriott 30Martin-Gropius-Bau 56Mauerpark 46Maximilians 19Mein Haus am See 23Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe 26Milchbar 54Monsieur Vuong 20MS Schiffskontor 59Museum für Asiatische Kunst 40Museum für Film und Fernsehen 27Museum für Naturkunde 27Mutter Hoppe 19Neue Nationalgalerie 27Neues Museum 28Neue Synagoge 25Newton Bar 23Nikolaiviertel 25Nola’s am Weinberg 21Olympic Stadium 39Onitsuka Tiger 29Oranium 21Oscar Wilde 24Osteria N°1 53Ottenthal 34Pagode 51Palace 41Panorama Café 20Panoramapunkt 30Papagena 12Paris-Moskau 21Park Inn Berlin Alexanderplatz 31Pergamon Museum 28Pizzeria i Due Forni 45Potsdamer Platz 25Precise Myer's 43Prenzlauer Berg Tourist Information Centre 45QIU Lounge 23Quasimodo 38Radialsystem V 12Reederei BWSG 59Reederei Riedel 59Reederei Winkler 59Reichstag 25

Reingold 23Reinhard's 22Renger-Patzsch 33Restauration 1840 19Restauration 1900 44Riehmers 51Ritz-Carlton 31Roter Salon 23Sachiko Sushi 36San Diego Steakhouse 48Sankt Oberholz 22Santiago 45Sarod's 51Savoy Berlin 41Scandic Potsdamer Platz 31Schall und Rauch 45Schloss Charlottenburg 39Schneeweiß 48Schnitzelei 34Schöneberger Weltlaterne 33Schwarzwaldstuben 19SensCity Hotel Albergo 42Shakespeare & Sons 46Sisyphos 49Skoda 29SO36 55Soda Club 46Sophieneck 22Sphere 20Staatsoper im Schillertheater 9Suksan 34Sushi Imbiss am Wasserturm 45Swissôtel Berlin 41Sylter Hof 42tausche Taschen 46, 49Tempelhof Airport Terminal 55Tempelhofer Freiheit 56Tiergarten 40Tipi am Kanzleramt 11Topographie des Terrors 56Trabi Safari 58Traube 22Union Jack 39Van Long 20VAU 21Veronica Pohle 40Vicolo Bergmann 53VOX 21Waldorf Astoria 42Week-End Club 24Weinstein 45Weltrestaurant Markthalle 54Westin Grand 31Wild at Heart 55Wintergarten Variété 11Wohnzimmer 45Würgeengel 54Zander 44Zillemarkt 33Zille-Stube 19Zimmermeister Brunzel's Mietshaus 46Zum Nussbaum 19Zur Letzten Instanz 19Zwiebelfisch 38Zwölf Apostel 36

Directed by and featuring CHRISTOPH HAGEL, DDC COMPANY („Got to Dance“ finalists 2013) and Top-Artists of BASE Berlin

19 February – 8 June 2014Wed – Sat 20:00 · Sun 18:00Tickets from € 24,50

S U I T A B L E F O R I N T E R N A T I O N A L V I S I T O R S

Just print your tickets yourself: www.wintergarten-berlin.de · Ticket Hotline: +49(0)30 - 588 433

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