SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed-back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.

Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions.

Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/privacy.

369369

OUR READERSMany thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Adriaan van Dijk, Adrian Ineichen, Adrien Bitton, Adrien Ledeul, Agapi Galenianou, Alan & Lynn Taylor, Alan Keltner, Alberto Ibanez, Alexis Haneke, Alfred Schupp, Amanda Löwenberg, Amir Qaredaghi, Ana Hocevar, Ana Louro, Andrew Coker, Andrew Rerttman, Angus Lee, Ankur Agarwal, Anna Zavyalova, Anne Ataii, Anton Kerst, Arlo Werhoven, Arne Gerberding, Aurélien Grollemund, Bas Geelen, Basia Jóźwiak, Bastiaan Bijl, Basudeb Banerjee, Behnaz Shaabani, Bojan Bokal, Cale Lawlor, Catherine Waters, Chevallier Elodie, Chiara Pentini, Christian Kayed, Christina Gade, Cinzia Mina, Damjan Sinigoj, David Cassan, David Droob, David Treller, Desislava Slavcheva, Dominik Hetzer, Edda Senior, Edo Willemse, Elise Vonk, Elizabeth van Tilborg, Eloise de la Croix, Ester Vila, Eugenio Ariztia, Eva Anita Steiger, Farnoush Sheykhani, Florian Siebeck, Franca Gilissen, Franco Pagnoni, Frank Westerhof, Frans Ewals, Geert van Waveren, Gert Fisahn, Gilda Gazor, Greg Minshall, Hadrien Cazeaux, Helen Carmichael, Helena Foito dos Santos, Helena Henneken, Henry Bacon, Hojat Kermani Nejad, Hon Chiu Vincent Ko, Ian Thomson, Ioannis Mamoukaris, Jaap Hooijkaas, Jacek Jancza-rek, Jan Setnan, Jan-Pieter Visschers, Jascha de Ridder, Jason Pemberton, Jeanne Watt, Jenny Hess, Jessie Toose, Jim Lowther, John Pasturel, Jonas Keil, Joris Tieleman, Julia Dorenwendt, Julian Madsen, Kaldia Douag, Kamran Hasani, Katharina Lüke, Kay

Martin, Klaas Flechsig, Larissa Chu, Leigh Dehaney, Leonie Gavalas, Lianne Bosch, Lisandra Ilisei, Luis Maia, Luzius Thuerlimann, Maarten Jan Oskam, Maksymilian Dzwonek, Manfred Henze, Marc Verkerk, Marcel Althaus, Marei Bauer, Marianne Schoone, Mario Sergio Dd Oliveira Pinto, Marjolijn Polman, Martin Hausmann, Mary Gavan, Mehmet Gavremo-glu, Michael Chow, Mike van kruchten, Mina Rahimi, Mirka Badinska, Mohammad Afshinfar, Mohammad Ebrahimi, Mohsen Rezaie-Atagholipour, Momo Nedderwedder, Monica Coppi, Monica Santosuosso, Monika Marek, Nga Bellis, Nicholas James, Nick Lubout, Olav Wissink , Oleg Zhernovoy, Olivia-Petra Coman, Olivier Drouin, Parniyan Fakharzadeh, Parto Shahvandi, Paul Downing, Paul Faust, Paul Tjiam, Paul-Noël Dumont, Petros Mouchas, Phuong Tran, Pier Giorgi, Regi & Andi Keller, Regine Fisahn, Remko Donga, Rens Geerse , Reto Vogt, Ricardo Puerto, Richard & Joan Williams, Roderick van de Weg, Roëlla de Ruiter, Ronald De Hertogh, Rouhollah Fallahi, Roya Moradifar, Ryan Mckechnie, Ryan Teo, Ryo Kakiuchi, Sadra Beygi , Sebastian Lopienski, Shahireh Nozari, Simon Coombe, Simon Walo, Simone Zoppellaro, Siska D’hoore, Stefan Gruber, Stefanie Mikkers, Stela Prodanovic, Stephane Baudemont, Susanne Janssen, Svein Skalevag, Sveta Selivanova, Terry Hooper, Thessi Summer, Thibaud Marcesse, Thomas Nash, Thomas Sarosy, Thomas Schneider, Tim Rom, Tobias Leupold, Tobias Wolski, Tom De Mits, Tomasz Ko-zaczek, Ursula Streit, Vida Pirlou, Xavier law, Xin Tian Yong, Yao Zhang, Yasi Ayat, Yorian Bordes

Behind the Scenes

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

370

BEHIN

D THE SCEN

ES

WRITER THANKSSimon RichmondMany thanks to the following for their assistance in preparation for and during my research in Iran: Andrew Burke, Gabe Kaminski, Laili Sadr, Mathew Scott, Yi-Juan Koh, William Lodder, Navid, Sogand, Matin, Shirin, Ali, Farah, Ramin, Armin, Masoud, Jalal and Berzhad.

Jean-Bernard CarilletA huge thanks to everyone who helped out and made this trip an enlightenment, especially Mojtaba, Eric, Amir, Ibrahim, the young couple met on Qeshm and all the people I met on the road. At Lonely Planet I’m grateful to Helen for her trust, and to the hard-working editors. At home, a gros bisou to Eva and lots of love to Morgane, whose support was essential.

Mark ElliottMany, many thanks to gallant guides Shahram and Mojtaba, to Helen, Dylan and Megan for making things possible and to Sally Kingsbury and my unbeatable parents for so much love and support. Thank you also to countless kind Iranians and travellers who were so generous with their time, hospitality and information, notably Vali, Reza and family, Rino, Ahmad, Amir, Jalal, Mohammad and Akbar.

Anthony HamA big thank you to my editor, Helen Elfer, for trust-ing me to write about such a wonderful part of the world we both love. And to my co-authors – Mark Elliott, Jean-Bernard Carillet, Simon Richmond, Jenny Walker and Steve Waters – who together represent some of the finest writers writing guidebooks anywhere.

Jenny WalkerIran is acknowledged as a country of wonders – and this includes the legendary hospitality extended to visitors. A general thanks, then, to all who helped contribute to the information in the Central Iran chapter. Specific thanks to Bijan Nabavi for setting the scene, to Mostafa Ramezan-poor for attention to detail and most especially to Mojtaba Heidari for his extreme efforts in extreme circumstances – not forgetting his signature coffee stops! Biggest thanks to beloved Sam (Owen), husband, co-researcher and fellow traveller.

Steve WatersThanks to all the beautiful Iranian people who smoothed my way, picked me up when I was miles from nowhere, bought me tea and chocolates, or chelo kabab, who taught me lessons in humility, patience and honesty, who told me subversive jokes, made me laugh, shared their food and perse-vered with my mangled Farsi. And thanks to Rahel, Kaz, Hamish, Megan and Roz for being yourselves.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSClimate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrol-ogy and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344.Cover photograph: Masjed-e Sheikh Lotfollah (Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque), Esfahan, JPRichard/Shutterstock ©

THIS BOOKThis 7th edition of Lonely Planet’s Iran guidebook was researched and written by Simon Richmond, Jean-Bernard Carillet, Mark Elliott, Anthony Ham, Jenny Walker and Steve Waters. The previous edition was written by Andrew Burke, Virginia Maxwell and Iain Shearer. This guidebook was produced by the following:

Destination Editors Helen Elfer, Lauren KeithProduct Editors Joel Cotterell, Anne MasonSenior Cartographer David KempBook Designer Nicholas ColicchiaAssisting Editors Sarah Bailey, Imogen Bannister, Carly Hall, Ali Lemer, Kristin Odijk, Gabrielle Stefanos, Ross Taylor, Saralinda Turner

Assisting Cartographer Julie DodkinsCover Researcher Naomi ParkerThanks to Jordan Hallewell, Indra Kilfoyle, Kate Mathews, Claire Naylor, Karyn Noble, Martine Power, Kirsten Rawlings, Alison Ridgway, Shadi Salehian

371

Index

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

12 imams 307

AAbyaneh 157-8accommodation 336-8, see

also individual locationslanguage 362-3

activities 20-1, 338-40, see also individual activities, locations

Afghanistan, travel to/from 351

Afin 242Ahmedinejad, Mahmoud

291-2Ahvaz 144AIDS 360air pollution 67, 330, 361air travel

airlines 351airports 350to/from Iran 350-1within Iran 353

Alamut Castle 121Alamut Valley 15, 118-22,

120, 15Alborz Mountains 12,

72-3, 12alcohol 305Ali Sadr Caves 131Andimeshk 139Arab people 218, 293Aras River Valley 95-7archaeological sites 20

Belqays 271Choqa Zanbil Ziggurat 12,

142, 12Haft Tappeh Archaeo-

logical Site & Museum 140-1

Harireh 215Hegmataneh Hill 131-2Mt Bisotun 130

Naqsh-e Rajab 210Naqsh-e Rostam 210Pasargadae 210-11Persepolis 11, 207-10,

208, 11Qal’eh Salosel 143Shushtar Historical

Hydraulic System 142Susa 140Takht-e Soleiman 103, 105Taq-e Bustan 127

architecture 20, 310-14Ardabil 97-100, 98area codes 17, 348Armenia, travel to/from

96, 351art 48, 318-19art galleries, see also

museumsAb Anbar 64Art Centre Galleries 64Assar Art Gallery 64Fine Art Museum 49Gallery Mellat 64Iranian Artists’ House 64Jahan-Nama Museum &

Gallery 49-50Muzeh Sanati 233Seyhoun Art Gallery 64Tehran 12, 64, 12Tehran Museum of

Contemporary Art (TMOCA) 46-7

Ashura 22, 1362Asiatic cheetahs 115, 328Astane Sq 147atashkadehs, see fire

templesATMs 344Azerbaijan, travel to/from

95, 351Azeri people 293

BBadab-e Surt travertines

251

badgirs 186, 223, 313Kashan 154Tehran 38Qeshm Island 223Yazd 182, 183, 184, 185,

186Bagh-e Sangi stone garden

232Baha’ism 308Bajgiran 257Baluchi people 294Bandar Abbas 219-22, 221Bandar-e Lengeh 219Bandari people 218bathrooms 349bargaining 19Bavanat 211-12Bayazeh 181bazaars 14, 21

Bandar Abbas 220Bazaar (Kashan) 151Bazar-e Bozorg 160-1, 8Bazar-e Sartasari 232-3Bazar-e Vakil 196-7Caravanserai Azizolaof

260Covered Bazaar

(Kermanshah) 128Covered Bazaar

(Qazvin) 114Grand Bazaar (Tehran) 39Old Bazar (Qom) 147Sa’d-al Saltaneh

Caravanserai 113Semnan Bazaar 252Tabriz Bazaar 14, 85-6, 14Zanjan Bazaar 100

Bazargan 80bazaris 295bicycle travel, see cyclingBijar 136-7birds 328-9, 330Birjand 243-4Bishapur 212Bisheh 138Bisheh waterfalls 138

Bisotun 130boat travel 353-4Bojnurd 270-1books 274, 321-2Boq’eh-ye Khajeh Rabi 258border crossings 351-2

Afghanistan 351Armenia 96, 351Azerbaijan 95, 351Iraq 352Pakistan 352Turkey 81, 91, 352Turkmenistan 255, 352

bridgesBand-e Lashkar 143Khodaafarin Bridge 97Mir Baha-e Din Bridge 101Pol-e Chubi 167Pol-e Ebrahimabad 98Pol-e Jajim 98Pol-e Khaju 166Pol-e Shadorvan 142-3Pol-e Shahrestan 167Si-o-Seh Pol 166Tabiat Bridge 41

budget 17bus travel 356

to/from Iran 352within Iran 354-5

business hours 17, 345

Ccalendars 348calligraphy 318camel trekking 241caravanserais 313

Bisotun 130Caravanserai Azizolaof

260Dehnamak 254Kashan 151Kuhpayeh 178Pichebon Caravanserai

119Robat Qarehbil 257

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

372

IND

EX C-H

caravanserais continuedSa’d-al Saltaneh

Caravanserai 113Shush 141Zafaraniyeh 271Zein-o-din 194-5

car travel 352, 355-6driving licences 355fuel 355hire 355insurance 355

carpets 315-18castles & fortresses

Alamut Castle 121Arg-e Karim Khan 197Arg-e Rayen 242Arg-e Tabriz 86Behestan Castle 102Ghal’e-ye Portoghaliha

228Lamiasar Castle 121-2Maku Fortress 80Narin Castle 194Narin Ghale 181Qa’en Castle 244Qal’eh Babak 97Qal’eh Rudkhan 111Qaleh Tarikhi 243Saryazd Fortress 195

cathedrals, see churches & cathedrals

cavesAli Sadr Caves 131Karaftu Caves 104Katale Khor Caves 101Khare Namaki 223Khorbas Caves 225Quri Qaleh Cave 126

cell phones 16, 349central Iran 32, 146-212,

148-9accommodation 146climate 146food 146highlights 148-9travel seasons 146

Chahar shanbe-soori 22, 299

Chahkooh Canyon 224Chak Chak 194Chelgerd 177children, travel with 340

health 361Choqa Zanbil Ziggurat 12,

142, 12

Christianity 309churches & cathedrals

Armenian Evangelical Church 133

Dzor Dzor Chapel 80Kantur Church 114Kelisa-ye Vank 167Maryam Church 98Qareh Kalisa 80Sarkis Cathedral 47St Mary’s Church 87St Stephanos Gregorian

Church 133cinema 323-5climate 16, 22-3, 340climbing 338-9

Alborz Mountains 115Ardabil 98Farhad Tarash 130Ganjnameh 137Kelardasht 113Khorramabad 145Maku 80Meygoon 73Mt Damavand 74Mt Tochal 51Zagros Mountains 177Zendan-e Soleiman 104

Colourful Mountains 101-2consulates 341-2crafts 157, 319

golabtoun douzi 226credit cards 345cultural considerations, see

also women travellersclothing 18, 333-4etiquette 18-19, 334-5food 305photography 346ta’arof 300

culture 21, 295-301currency 345, 346customs regulations 341cycling 338, 353

Kish Island 215

Ddangers, see safe travelDarband 253Darbansar 73Dasht-e Kavir 178-82Dasht-e Lut, see Kaluts, theDeh Salm 241diarrhoea, traveller’s 360diptheria 360disabilities, travellers

with 349

diving & snorkelling 338Hengam Island 224Kish Island 215

Dizin 72-3Dorud 138Dorud-Andimeshk Railway

138-9drinks 304-5

Eearthquakes 327, 333economy 295-6Eid al-Fitr 22electricity 339, 341embassies 341-2emergencies 17, 342

language 364environmental issues

329, 330Eresk 242Esfahan 158-76, 164

accommodation 168-71drinking & nightlife 173food 171-3information 174-5itineraries 167shopping 173-4sights 159-68tours 168travel to/from 175travel within 175-6walking tours 169, 169

Esfandiar 242Esfarayen 271-2etiquette 18-19events, see festivals &

eventsexchange rates 17

FFahraj 195Fajr International Film

Festival 22Farahzad 181-2Farsi 362-8Ferdosi, Hakim

Abulqasim 321festivals & events 22-3

Ashura 23, 136Chahar shanbe-soori

22, 299Eid al-Fitr 22No Ruz 22, 299, 347-8Sizdah be Dar 299

films 274, 325fire temples 15, 309, 15

Ateshkadeh-ye Esfahan 168

Kerman 236Niasar 157Pir-e-Sabz Fire Temple

194Yazd 184

Firuz Abad 212food 10, 20, 302-5

desserts 303-4dizi 303Gilan cuisine 108kababs 302-3, 19language 363-4

football 65, 297

GGanjnameh 137gardens, see parks &

gardensGarmarud 119-21Garmeh 13, 180, 13Garmsar 254-5gay travellers 342-3Gazor Khan 121geography 326-7Ghal’e-ye Portoghaliha 228golabtoun douzi 226Golestan National Park 257Golestan Palace 37-9Gonbad-e Kavus 256-7Gorgan 247-52, 250guides

Bojnurd 271Dasht-e Kavir 179Esfahan 168Kashan 155Kerman 234-5Kermanshah 128Mashhad 260Persepolis 210Qazvin 115Rasht 106-7Shiraz 202Shush 141Tabriz 87-9Yazd 186-7

HHafez 15, 321haft seen 299Hamadan 131-6, 132hammams

Hammam-e Ali Gholi Agha 166

Hammam-e Khan 151Hammam-e Sultan Mir

Ahmad 153Hammam-e Vakil 197Khan Hammam 123

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

373IN

DEX H

-M

Safa Hammam 115Haogand 242Haram-e Razavi 13, 258,

263, 264, 13Harireh 215Hazrat-e Masumeh 147health 359-61

insurance 359medical services 359vaccinations 359

Hengam Island 224Henna Mill 186hepatitis 360hiking, see trekkinghistory 276-92

1979 revolution 286-9Achaemenids 277Ahmedinejad era 291-2Alexander the Great 279BuAli 135Elamites 276Esfahan 159First Persian Empire

277-9Green Movement 292Hormoz Island 227, 228Imam Reza 260Iran-Iraq War 289Islam 280-2Khan, Genghis 282Khan, Kuchuk 105Khan, Reza 285-6Mashhad 257-8Medes 276medicine 135Mongols 282-3Nader Shah 284northeastern Iran 247Pahlavi dynasty 285-6Parthians 279-80Persepolis 207-8Qajar 284-5Sabbah, Hasan-e 122Safavids 283-4Sassanids 280Second Persian Empire

280Seljuks 282Shiraz 196Silk Road 281Tabriz 84-5Tehran 36Third Persian Empire

283-4US embassy siege 289

hitching 356HIV 360holidays 346-8Hormoz Island 227-9

HosseiniehsAminiha Hosseiniyeh 114Amir Chakhmaq Mosque

Complex 183Biglar Beigi Tekyeh 128Takieh Mo’aven ol-Molk

127Howraman 125-6

Iice houses

Meybod Yakhchal 194Yakkchal Moayedi 233Zafaraniyeh 271

Imam Reza 260imamzadehs

Holy Shrine of Imam Khomeini 75

Imam Zadeh Jafar 185Imamzadeh Abdullah 143Imamzadeh Saleh 50Imamzadeh Shah-e

Abdal-Azim 75-6Imamzadeh Zeid 39Imamzadeh-ye Ali Ebn-e

Hamze 201Imamzadeh-ye Hossein

(Hamadan) 133 Imamzadeh-ye Hossein

(Qazvin) 114Imamzadeh-ye Yahya

256immigration 350insurance 343, 355, 359internet access 343internet resources 17Iraq, travel to/from 352Islam 306-8itineraries 24-6, 24, 25, 26

Esfahan 167Tehran 36

JJavaherdeh 112Jolfa 94-5Jolfa Sq 168Judaism 309

KKalat 270Kaleybar 97Kaluts, the 240-2Kandovan 94Kang 269Karaftu Caves 104Kashan 151-7, 152Katale Khor Caves 101Kazerun 212

Kelardasht 112-13Kerman 232-9, 234-5Kermanshah 127-30, 129Khal Khal 100Khan, Reza 285-6Khan-e Abbasian 153Khan-e Boroujerdi 152Khan-e Lari 184Khan-e Tabatabaei 152Kharanaq 193-4Khare Namaki caves 223Khatami, Mohammad 291Khayyam, Omar 321Khomeini, Ayatollah

Ruhollah 286, 287, 288-9

Khonik Olya 242Khonik Sofl 242Khorbas Caves 225Khorramabad 144-5Khoy 81Khur 180-1Kish Island 214-19, 216Kong 219Kuhdasht Salt Mine 254Kuhpayeh 178-9Kurdish language 127Kurdish people 293

LLaft 223Lahijan 109-10Lake Orumiyeh 85language 362-8

accommodation 362-3emergencies 364food 363-4glossary 367-8Hurami Kurdish 127transport 365

legal matters 343-4LGBTI travellers 342-3literature 320-2Lors people 294Lut Desert, see Kaluts, the

Mmadrasehs

Madraseh va Masjed-e Sepahsalar 40-1

Madraseh-ye Chahar Bagh 165-6

Madraseh-ye Khan 201Masjed-e Jameh

(Zanjan) 100Masjed-e Agha Borzog

151-2Mahan 239-40

Mahdishahr 253Makhmalbaf, Mohsen 324Maku 80-1malaria 360maps 344Maraqeh 84Marghoob 242Marivan 137-8Mashhad 257-68, 259, 261

accommodation 260-2activities 260drinking & nightlife 265entertainment 265-6food 262-5information 266-7shopping 266sights 258-60tours 260travel to/from 267-8travel within 268

Masjed-e Jameh (Esfahan) 162-3, 163

Masjed-e Shah 159-60, 161, 160, 5

Masjed-e Sheikh Lotfollah 161-2

Masuleh 110-11mausoleums

Alaviyan Dome 133Aramgah-e Hafez 201Aramgah-e Sa’di 201Aramgah-e Shah

Ne’matollah Vali 239Aramgah-e Shah-e

Cheragh 200-1Bogh’e-ye Sayyed Mir

Mohammed 200-1Boq’eh-ye Khajeh Rabi

258BuAli Sina Mausoleum

132, 135Chalapi Oghli

Mausoleum 103Gonbad-e Sabz 259-60Haram-e Razavi 13, 258,

263, 264, 13Holy Shrine of Imam

Khomeini 75Imamzadeh Shah-e

Abdal-Azim 75-6Nader Shah Mausoleum

258-9Oljeitu Mausoleum 103Poets’ Mausoleum 87Sheikh Safi-od-Din

Mausoleum 97-8Mesr 181-2Meybod 194Meymand 231-2Mo’allem Kalayeh 121

374

IND

EX M-P

mobile phones 16, 349money 16, 17, 344-5mosques

Ali Mosque 166Amir Chakhmaq Mosque

Complex 183, 10Azim-e Gohar Shad 263Blue Mosque (Tabriz) 86Haftado Tan Mosque 258Haji Fakr Mosque 98Hosseiniyeh Mosque 100Imam Khomeini Mosque

(Tehran) 39Jameh Mosque

(Ardabil) 98Jameh Mosque (Qa’en)

244-5Khanum Mosque 101Masjed Imam (Semnan)

252Masjed-e Agha Borzog

151-2Masjed-e Imam 233Masjed-e Jameh

(Esfahan) 162-3, 163Masjed-e Jameh (Fahraj)

195Masjed-e Jameh

(Hamadan) 133Masjed-e Jameh (Na’in)

179Masjed-e Jameh

(Natanz) 158Masjed-e Jameh

(Qazvin) 114Masjed-e Jameh

(Sanandaj) 123Masjed-e Jameh

(Semnan) 252Masjed-e Jameh (Tabriz)

86Masjed-e Jameh (Yazd)

182-3Masjed-e Jameh

(Zanjan) 100-1Masjed-e Nasir-al-Molk

198-200Masjed-e Shah 159-60,

161, 160, 5Masjed-e Sheikh

Lotfollah 161-2Masjed-e Vakil 197Mirza Ali Akbar Mosque

98Nabi Mosque 114Rasul-Ullah Mosque 101

Mossadegh, Mohammad 286, 287

motorcycle travel 352, 355-6

driving licences 355fuel 355hire 355insurance 355

mountaineering 338-9Mt Damavand 74-5Mt Hezar 242Mt Shahjahan 271Mt Tochal 51museums 20

Ahmad Shahi Pavilion 50Anthropology Museum

(Mashhad) 259Anthroplogy Museum

(Qazvin) 114Asef Mansion 123Automobile Museum 50Azarbaijan Museum 86BuAli Sina Mausoleum

132Carpet Museum of

Iran 47Chehel Sotun 113-14Decorative Arts Museum

of Iran 166Film Museum of Iran 50Fine Art Museum 49Gilan Rural Heritage

Museum 106Glass & Ceramics

Museum 40Haft Tappeh

Archaeological Site & Museum 140-1

Imperial Library Museum 49

Iran Holy Defense Museum 41-2

Iranian Art Museum Garden 50

Isfahan Music Museum 167-8

Islamic Museum 40Jahan-Nama Museum &

Gallery 49-50Kashani National

Museum 154Kavir Ethnology Museum

179Khan-e Zinat ol-Molk 197Lotfolla Sheik-al-Islam

Mansion 123Madraseh va Masjed-e

Sepahsalar 40-1Malek National Library &

Museum 40Mirror & Lighting

Museum 185

Moshtari-ye Moshtaq Ali Shah 233

Museum & Art Gallery of Ahmad Nadalian 228

Museum of Iranian Fine Arts 197

Museum of the Holy Defence 233

National Museum of Iran 40

Niyavaran Cultural- Historic Comple 49

Niyavaran Palace 49Persepolis Museum 209Qajar Museum 86Qazvin Museum 114Qsar Garden Museum 42Rakhatshor-Khaneh 101Ramsar Palace Museum

111Rasht Museum 106Reza Abbasi Museum 47Royal Costume

Museum 49Sa’d Abad Museum

Complex 48Shahriyar House

Museum 87Sheibani’s Museum of

Fine Arts 152Susa Museum 140Treasury of National

Jewels 40, 41US Den of Espionage 42Yazd Water Museum 183-4Zanjan Archaeology

Museum 100Zeilo Museum 194

music 65, 322-3

NNader Shah

Mausoleum 258-9Na’in 179-80Naqsh-e Jahan (Imam)

Square 9, 159, 9Naqsh-e Rajab 210Naqsh-e Rostam 210Natanz 158national parks & reserves

329-30newspapers 339nomadic people 11, 294, 11northeastern Iran 32, 246-

72, 248-9accommodation 246climate 246food 246highlights 248-9travel seasons 246

No Ruz 22, 299, 347-8nuclear power 158Nushabad ‘Underground

City’ 154

OOld Deyhuk 242opening hours 17, 345Orumiyeh 82-4, 82outdoor activities, see

activities

Ppainting 318Pakistan, travel to/from

352palaces

Apadana Palace 209Ardashir’s Palace 312Audience Palace 211Bagh-e Naranjestan

197-8Chehel Sotun 113-14Cyrus’ palace complex

211Darius’ Palace 140Golestan Palace 37-9Green Palace 49Hasht Behesht Palace

166Kakh-e Ali Qapu 162Kakh-e Chehel Sotun

163-5Khorshid Palace 270Masoudieh Palace 40Niyavaran Palace 49Palace of 100 Columns

209Private Palaces

(Persepolis) 209Qal’eh-e Doktar 212Ramsar Palace Museum

111White Palace 48-9

Palangan 126Parishan Lake 212parks & gardens

Akhbarieh Garden 243Bagh-e Dolat Abad 185Bagh-e Eram 201Bagh-e Fin 153-4Bagh-e Nazar 196Bagh-e Sangi stone

garden 232Bagh-e Shahzde 239-40Darius’ garden 211Elgoli Park 87Iranian Art Museum

Garden 50Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

375IN

DEX P

-T Nazhvan Cultural &

Recreational Resort 168

Park-e Jamshidiyeh 50Park-e Laleh 47Park-e Mellat 50Park-e Shahr 41Qsar Garden Museum 42

Pasargadae 210-11passports 350Paveh 126Peacock Throne 41people 9, 21, 275, 293-4Persepolis 11, 207-10,

208, 11Persian Gulf 32, 213-29,

214accommodation 213climate 213food 213highlights 214travel seasons 213

Persian people 293photography 346Pigeon Tower (Meybod)

194Pigeon Towers (Esfahan)

168pilgrimages 266planning

budgeting 16-17calendar of events 22-3climate 16Iran basics 16-17, 18-19Iran’s regions 31-2itineraries 24-6, 24,

25, 26tours 29-30travel seasons 16, 22-3visas 27-30weather 16

poetry 15, 320, 321politics 274-5pollution 330population 275, 293-4postal services 346public holidays 346-8

QQa’en 244-5Qalaat 178Qazvin 113-18, 116Qeshm Island 222-7, 224Qeshm Island Geopark

223-4Qeshm Town 223Qom 147-50, 150

Rrabies 360radio 339Radkan 269-72Rageh Canyon 232Rainbow Valley 227Ramazan (Ramadan) 347Ramsar 111-12Rasht 105-9, 106Rayen 242-3Razmiyan 121-2religion 275, 306-9Rey 75-6Reza, Mohammad 285-6Reza Shah 285-6rock climbing 339Roein 271Rumi 321

SSabbah, Hasan-e 122Sabzevar 272Sa’di 321safe travel 332-5, see also

women travellersdeserts 241environmental hazards

360-1LGBTI travellers 342-3road safety 355-6southeastern Iran 232

saffron 266Sanandaj 122-5, 124Sari 247Saryazd 195savaris 357-8Semnan 252-4Sepid Dasht 138-9Sepidan 177-8Shah Mohammad Reza

Pahlavi 285-7Shahmirzad 253Shahr-e Kord 176-7Shahrud 255-6Shemshak 73Shibderaz 224Shiism 307-8Shiraz 195-207, 198-9

accommodation 202-4drinking & nightlife 205food 204-5information 205-6shopping 205sights 196-202tours 202travel to/from 206, 207travel within 206-7

Shush 139-41

Shushtar 141-4Silk Road 281skiing 12, 339-40, 12

Alborz Mountains 72-3Tehran 51-2Zagros Mountains 177

snorkelling, see diving & snorkelling

soccer 65, 297Soltaniyeh 103southeastern Iran 32, 230-

45, 231accommodation 230climate 230food 230highlights 231travel seasons 230

sports 65, 297Sufism 308Sunnism 307-8swimming 215

TTabriz 84-94, 88

accommodation 89-90activities 87drinking & nightlife 91-4food 90-1information 92sights 85-7tours 87-9travel to/from 92-3travel within 93-4

Takab 103-5takiehs, see HosseiniehsTalezang 139taxis 356-7tea 110, 304Tehran 31, 34-76, 35, 38,

44-5, 52-3, 56accommodation 34, 53-8activities 50-3climate 34courses 53drinking & nightlife 61-4entertainment 64-5food 34, 58-61highlights 35information 67-8itineraries 36shopping 65-6sights 37-50tours 53travel seasons 34travel to/from 68-9travel within 69-72walking tours 43, 43

telephone services 348-9

time 16, 349tipping 19Tochal Telecabin 50-1toilets 349tombs

Aramgah-e Hafez 201Aramgah-e Sa’di 201Aramgah-e Shah

Ne’matollah Vali 239Aramgah-e Shah-e

Cheragh 200-1Bogheh-ye Sayyed

Roknaddin 185Bogh’e-ye Sayyed Mir

Mohammed 200-1Borj-e Qorban 133Chalapi Oghli

Mausoleum 103Haram-e Razavi 258,

263, 264Hazrat-e Masumeh 147Holy Shrine of Imam

Khomeini 75Imamzadeh Shah-e

Abdal-Azim 75-6Oljeitu Mausoleum 103Sheikh Safi-od-Din

Mausoleum 97-8Tomb of Artaxerxes

II 209Tomb of Artaxerxes

III 209Tomb of Cyrus 211Tomb of Daniel 140

Toudeshk 178-9tourist information 349tours 29-30

Bojnurd 271Dasht-e Kavir 179Esfahan 168Kaluts, the 241Kashan 154-5Kerman 234-5Kermanshah 128Mashhad 260Persepolis 210Qazvin 115Qeshm Island 225Rasht 106-7Shiraz 202Shush 141Tabriz 87-9Yazd 186-7

towersAllah-Allah tower 97Azadi Tower (Borj-e

Azadi) 42Borg-argavan Shah 270Dakhmeh-ye

Zartoshtiyun 186

376

IND

EX P-Z

towers continuedGonbad-e Jabaliye 233-5Gorgan Tower 247Kolah Farangi Tower 143Milad Tower 47Mil-e Gonbad tower 256Radkan Tower 269

train travelto/from Iran 352-3within Iran 358

travel seasons 16travel to/from Iran 350-3travel within Iran 353-8traveller’s diarrhoea 360trekking 338, 340

Alamut Valley 15, 119, 15Ardabil 98Hamadan 133Kelardasht 112Qazvin 115Tabriz 87Tehran 51

Trump, Donald 275tuberculosis 360Turkey, travel to/from 91,

91, 352Turkmen people 294Turkmenistan, travel to/

from 255, 352turtles 223, 224

UUnesco World Heritage

Sites 310Akhbarieh Garden 243Armenian monasteries 87Bagh-e Chehel Sotun

165Bagh-e Dolat Abad 185Bagh-e Eram 201Bagh-e Fin 153-4Bisotun 130Choqa Zanbil Ziggurat

12, 142, 12Darius’ garden 211Dzor Dzor Chapel 80Meymand 231-2Mil-e Gonbad tower 256Naqsh-e Jahan (Imam)

Sq 9, 159, 9Oljeitu Mausoleum 103Persepolis 11, 207-10,

208, 11Qareh Kalisa 80Sheikh Safi-od-Din

Mausoleum 97-8Shushtar Historical

Hydraulic System 142Susa 140Tabriz Bazaar 14, 85-6, 14Takht-e Soleiman 103,

105

Vvacations 346-8Valley of Stars 224Valley of the Statues 227-8vegetarian travellers 305villages 20visa extensions 29visas 16, 27-30

Wwalking, see trekkingwalking tours

Esfahan 169, 169Tehran 43, 43Yazd 188, 188

weather 16, 22-3, 341weights 339western Iran 14, 31, 77-145,

78-9accommodation 77climate 77food 77highlights 78-9travel seasons 77

wildlife 223, 257, 327-9windtowers, see badgirswomen in Iran 297-301women travellers 333-5

health 361

YYazd 10, 182-93, 184

accommodation 187-90, 190

drinking & nightlife 191entertainment 191food 190-1information 192-3shopping 191-2sights 182-6tours 186-7travel to/from 192, 193travel within 193walking tours 188, 188

ZZafaraniyeh 271Zagros Mountains 11, 176-8Zanjan 100-3, 101Zayandeh River 166-7Zein-o-din 194-5Zendan-e Soleiman 104Zoroastrianism 15, 308-9,

see also fire templeszurkhanehs 297

Mashhad 265-6Saheb A Zaman

Zurkhaneh 183

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

37 7N

OTES

378

NO

TES

379N

OTES

380

NO

TES

381N

OTES

382

Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin

Sento Hot Baths/Onsen

ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

DivingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

AirportBorder crossingBus

CyclingFerry

Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro station

Petrol stationSubway stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

LighthouseHut/Shelter

Beach

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

Reef

Canal

Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

Glacier

Mudflat

Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

Camping

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour

SkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian overpass

Secondary

Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

Gate

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

Shopping

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Note: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book

Map Legend

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Jenny WalkerCentral Iran A member of the British Guild of Travel Writers and the Outdoor Writers and Photographers Guild, Jenny has written extensively on the Middle East for Lonely Planet for more than a decade. With her husband, Wing Com-mander (retired) Sam Owen, she also authored Off-Road in the Sultanate of Oman – a country they have made their home for nearly 20 years.

Steve WatersWestern Iran Travel and adventure have always been Steve’s life, and he couldn’t imagine a world without them. Steve has been using Lonely Planet guidebooks for more than 30 years in places as diverse as Iran, Central Asia, Kamchatka, Tuva, the Himalaya, Canada, Patagonia, the Australian Outback, NE Asia, Myanmar and the Sahara. Little wonder then that he finally got a gig with the company! Steve has contributed to Iran, Indonesia and the past four editions of Western Australia, and

come any September you’re likely to find him in a remote gorge somewhere in the Kimberley.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Published by Lonely Planet Global LimitedCRN 5541537th edition – September 2017ISBN 978 1 78657 541 8© Lonely Planet 2017 Photographs © as indicated 201710 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona-ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

OUR WRITERSSimon RichmondTehran Journalist and photographer Simon Richmond has specialised as a travel writer since the early 1990s and first worked for Lonely Planet in 1999 on their Central Asia guide. He’s long since stopped counting the number of guidebooks he’s researched and written for the company, but countries covered including Australia, China, India, Iran, Japan, Korea, Malaysia, Mongolia, Myanmar (Burma), Russia, Singapore, South Africa and Turkey. For Lonely Planet’s website, he’s

penned features on topics from the world’s best swimming pools to the joys of urban sketching.

Jean-Bernard CarilletPersian Gulf Jean-Bernard is a Paris-based freelance writer and photographer who specialises in Africa, France, Turkey, the Indian Ocean, the Caribbean and the Pacific. He loves adventure, remote places, islands, the outdoors, archaeo-logical sites and food. His insatiable wanderlust has taken him to 114 countries across six continents, and it shows no sign of waning. It has inspired lots of articles and photos for travel magazines and some 70 Lonely Planet guidebooks,

both in English and in French.

Mark ElliottSoutheastern Iran, Northeastern Iran Mark Elliott had already lived and worked on five continents when, in the pre-Internet dark ages, he started writing travel guides. He has since authored (or co-authored) around 60 books including dozens for Lonely Planet. He also acts as a travel consultant, occasional tour leader, video presenter, speaker, interviewer and blues harmonicist.

Anthony HamPlan Your Trip, Understand and Survival Guide chapters Anthony is a freelance writer and photographer who specialises in Spain, East and Southern Africa, the Arctic and the Middle East. When he’s not writing for Lonely Planet, Anthony writes about and photographs Spain, Africa and the Middle East for newspapers and magazines in Australia, the UK and US.

OVERPAGE

MORE WRITERS

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’