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by Elisabeth-Charlotte Bohn

Basic Garment analysis

by Elisabeth-Charlotte Bohn

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All around view

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Introduction 4Technical basics 5-7Fabrics 8-11Resea=rch question 12-13Conclusion 14Sources 15

Content

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This booklet contains the analysis of the car coat, which is divided into two parts: First of all, technical details and used fabrics are going to be explained in depth. To be more pre-cise, historical facts and technical information identify the purpose of each of the coats elements.

The second part is about answering the research question of ‘The car coat: Fade or famous?’The car coat had its peak already decades ago, when it was mainly used for car driving purpose in the 60s. Therefore, I started to wonder about the car coat’s fame nowadays: Can the car coat still be considered a popular or an old-fashioned piece of clothing?

My research question hints mostly to contemporary issues which are going to be discussed in depth, such as the role of the car coat on the cat walk and in movies. In addition, a closer look has been taken on the changes within the car industry in terms of car design and specialised car fashion.

Introduction

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The colour choice of the coat is connected to the era’s spirit: Sample images of 60s art, design and advertisement show a neutral colour trend and a favour for brown tones. Moreover, the civil rights movement lead to an infl uence of the African cul-ture, its fashion and colour.

Coat type, Car coat/OuterwearWeight: 2,6 kgSize: 46Era: 60s-/70sBrand: London Fog, Baltimore

Overview

Coat type, Car coat/Outerwear

Brand: London Fog, Baltimore

Coat type, Car coat/Outerwear

OverviewOverviewOver“The natural look was in.” (Ed Jim Hei-mann, 60s Fashion)

Caramel Beige

Chocolate Olive

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Horn buttonsFunctioning? The buttons help to fasten the coat.

Origin? Those buttons origin from animals such as cow, buffalo or goat. Therefore, mer-chants are mostly based in Asian countries such as India or China who offer horn plates in various sizes and colours.

Quality? Those buttons can be of poor quality, due to negligence of animals.

Price? The price is costly with up to twice as much as a regular button.

Positioning? The four horn buttons help to identify this coat as a men’s one, due to its positioning on the right-hand side. In the past, with the left part on top of the right part, this buttoning allowed men easiest access to weapons in order to retrieve them as quick as possible.

Coat type

Characteristics? Its shortened lengths above the knees made the car coat a convenient choize for car driving purpose. Also, still long enough to cover up the bottom, it kept the body warm and save. Other features are its A-line fall and the squared box shape with a fl attened front.

A-line shape

Practical purpose? Its shape creates room around the hips which allows to move freely.

Infl uences? With the “hemlines as the barometer of progress” ( Ed.Jim Heimann, 60s fashion) and the introduction of the “micro-mini” in 1969 there was a privilege for shortened designs.

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New woolWhat does it mean? The trade-mark provides practical Informa-tion which identifi es the coat as an high-delicate garment. Additionally, the woolmark + R sign resembles the high quality of pure (100%) new wool. Its also a long-lasting piece of clothing with a solid col-our fastness. As a result, the washmachine wash-ing isn’t allowed, because it might damage the material and lead to shrinking.

The chainFunction? The chain functions as a coat hanger, but has a decorative purpose as well.

OpeningPurpose? The v-opening guarantees legroom which makes it comfortable to wear. Also, the open space makes the car driving more safe.

PocketsWhy? The large-scalled pockets allow enough space for the car keys.

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Temperature, the Satin helps to regulate to the temperature, whilst a fur filling

would be to warm.

Price, Satin lining is a cost saving alterna-tive to fur.

Convenience, for practical reasons the satin lining makes it more convenient to take the jacket on and off. Also, it has a pleas-ant feel on the skin.

The lining, Satin weave

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The lining, Faux fur

Temperature, labelled as an outer-wear design this coat is made for coldly sea-sons. Especially during winter month the faux fur functions as an protection against freezy temperatures and keeps the body tempera-ture up-to-date.

Costs, the faked version is a cost-saving alternative to real animal fur.

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Balanced twill houndstooth

The HoundstoothWhat? A houndstooth pattern can be identified by its shepherd checks with jagged edges. Moreover, contrasting colours form a two-toned textile pattern.

Where? Nowadays the houndstooth covers a wide range of products where it can be found, starting with clothing up to home decoration and animal care.

How? The pattern is either been made by a specific knit-ting technique or with the help of a stitching pattern. Best yarn choizes for the making-of process is mercerized cotton such as Thaki yarn. It has the advantage of durability, colour saturation and a shiny surface as well.

When? Houndstooth has a Scottish origin, where it was used into woolen men clothes end of the 19th century. It was the former prince of Wales Edward VIII. who made the pattern popular in the 1930s. Chanel integrated the hound-stooth pattern among the high society in the 80s. Nowadays its considerd to be a classical pattern that is worn independ-ent of class or age.

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Pattern peaksThe houndstooth pattern was featured by many other designers during its era of the 60s. Additionally, a revolutionary graphic design scene and an general interest for art and culture sparked a preference for graphical elements. Latest, the houndstooth pattern celebrates a huge comeback and is for exam-ple worn by celebrities.

Checked suit in 1930

Geoffrey Beene, ad in 1960

Camaro car model by Chevrolet in 1960

Issey Miyake, f/w 2011

Lady Gaga, in Salvatore Ferragamo, 2012

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Zegna f/w 2012

The car coat: fade or famous?

Nowadays the car coat still seems to be present within various pret-a-porter collections such as Zegna, Burb-erry and Kenzo as an example. Designers play with different patterns such as stripes or plaits and vary within the materials and colours used. As a result, the car coat has become an all-rounder that seems to be transformed into a modern fashion item. which in the end means that the car coat has lost its original purpose.

Kenzo S2011

Past: Cadillac presents the spirit of the 70s, cadilla ad in 1970

Present: Latest advertisement of the cts coupe, Cadillac.

Burberry Prorsum f/w 2011

A fact thats also been supported by having a closer look at the changes within the car industry.: Firstly, con-vertible cars were more popular during the 60s, while nowadays there is a preference for cars with a closed roof top. This development has made an negative im-pact on the car coat’s necessity and in turn influenced its demand.

In order to answer this question I decided on various factors that con-tribute to the car coat’s popularity. Therefore, I started to do comparisons between past and present situations based on the following factors: Look, car industry and movie.

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Certain type of coats such as the trench have become famous within movies. However, films in which the car coat is featured are hard to find and its appearance easily forgotten.

Also, among highly-recognised car manufacturers which pro-duce highly-specialised car fashion, the car coat isn’t present within those collections.: There is the tendency to substitute the car coat by various short jacket types.

Avantgarde jacket for men, Maserati Windbreaker for females, Porsche Bomber jacket for men, Ferrari Lamb leather jacket, Ferrari

George Clooney and Paola Bonacelli in “The American” (2010), wearing car coats against snow protec-tion.

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Conclusion The car coat: Fade or famous?

Overall, the car coat cannot catch up with the popular-ity level that it ones had., because the era’s have changed. First of all, people had less choices to choose from in terms of fashion, which means that there was a bigger market gap for the car coat. Moreover, the car design and a general hype around the car favored the car coat in the 60s, so that it was needed and being produced more often.

Nowadays the car coat doesn’t belong to any popular culture anymore such as movies, because its look isn’t memorable enough. However, its been modernised and does still suit a fl exible lifestyle.

In the end the car coat is still present, but not necessar-ily famous. Its name has been drowned out by the large amount of alternatives that are offered.

the 60s, so that it was needed and being produced more

memorable enough. However, its been modernised and

In the end the car coat is still present, but not necessar-ily famous. Its name has been drowned out by the large

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Books

Heimann. J., 2005, 60s cars-Vintage auto ads. Taschen, Koeln.

Heimann, J., 2007, 60s fashion Vintage Fashion and beauty ads.Taschen, Koeln.

2007, Clothing technology-5th edition.europa-Lehrmittel publisher, Haan gruiten.

Holborn M., 2008, Issey Miyake.taschen, Koeln.

1989, Miles O’Donnol SH., American costume 1915-1917, United States.

Cabrera A., 2010, What I learned at fashion school. Grand central, US.

Websites

Mode Parade, From: http://barimavox.blogspot.com/2011_03_01_archive.html [retrieved 20th March 2012.]

Made Man, http://www.mademan.com/mm/what-houndstooth.html [retrieved 22nd february.]

Sewnowwhat, http://sewnowwhat.wordpress.com/2008/01/11/houndstooth-2/ [retrieved 22nd february].

Myimageexpert, http://www.myimageexpert.com/mens_fall_coat_guide.html [retrieved 16th february 2012].

Ehow, http://www.ehow.co.uk/about_7237905_car-coat_.html [retrieved 12th february 2012].

LondonFok, http://www.londonfog.com/Heritage.asp [retrieved 12th february 2012].

Porsche, From: http://shop1.porsche.com/germany/women/pullo-ver/wap937xxx0b/ [retrieved 03rd March 2012]

Ferrari, From: http://store.ferrari.com/en/clothing/?page=2 [re-trieved 03rd March 2012]

Cadillac, From: http://www.cadillac.nl/modellen/cts/cts-coupe.html [retrieved 03rd March 2012]

Zegna/Kenzo/Burberry, From: style.com [retrieved 28th february 2012]

Dry clean only, From: http://www.wisegeek.com/can-i-machine-wash-dry-clean-only-clothing.htm [retrieved 23rd february, 2012]

Magazine

Leslie G., 2010, Houndstooth Sleeveless shell.Cast On, p.16.

Radio

2010, Greg carpenter : Remember the car coat?: Radio programme, 101.9 lite fm, 13th feebruary.

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