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Its fascinating to see the relevance of ancient Japanese philosophy even today, as it resonates across the natural theatre of Arima Onsen, and ricochets off the Spartan, zen-inspired homes of this hilltop town. As it turns out, Arima Onsen, which lies in the Kobe region of Japan, is not only the countrys oldest natural hot springs spa-town, but is also a slice of mystique, folklore and philosophy.

Im sitting at the quaintly decked out, yet ultra-modern luxury ryokan, the Arimasansoh Goshobessho Hot Springs resort, waiting for an induction into the ancient Japanese tradition of onsen (hot springs) community bath. My eyes wander towards a bright, somewhat circular emblem across the room.

Its like a wheel - a circular device with spokes that converge at a central point, Kazushige Kanai, the young scion of Arima Onsens most prominent business families, follows my gaze and attempts to explain. He introduces himself as CEO apprentice for his familys ancestral

properties, the Arimasansho Goshobessho resort and ancient parent property, Tocen Goshoboh, before continuing.

What do you see at the centre of the wheel? Nothing! he says passionately. Its an empty space - a functional nothingness. Its functional because this nothingness is what makes the wheel useful to man. How would you attach the wheel to anything if it wasnt for this empty space in the centre?

He continues, According to Japanese philosophers, people, and things, should have a certain emptiness at the core, in order to understand, appreciate and serve a purpose. The wheel-like emblem for our resort follows the same philosophy.

Arimasansoh Goshobessho, the hot springs spa resort thats responsible for launching us into the throes of philosophy, is innocuously tucked away atop the steep slopes of Arima, just a few steps from his familys ancient spa, Tocen Goshoboh. The latter was established as far back as the 12th century Kamakura period in

JAPANS OLDEST SPA TOWN PROVIDES FOR A SPIRITUAL ZEN HONEYMOON GETAWAY.

LESS IS MOREBY PRIYANKA PRADHAN

A file photo of the founding family of the ancient Tocen

Goshoboh, Arima Onsen.

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The hot spring community bathhouse (separate for both sexes)at Arimasansoh Goshobessho,Arima Onsen.

One of the many natural hot springs in Arima Onsen.

Interior of the Arimasansoh Goshobbesho onsen resort spa in Spring.

Japanese history, lying adjacent to the only hot-spring bathhouse of Arima at the time.

Today, with more than 30 inns and onsen resorts, Arima Onsen is known to be a haven for alternative therapy as well as spirituality. For Arima locals, however, the therapeutic powers of hot springs are mythical.

According to the history of the ancient Tousen Jinja (shrine) in Arima, two Shinto gods discovered Arima Onsen more than 1300 years ago. When they passed by the town, they happened to see three injured crows drink water from an onsen pool - they were immediately healed, much to the astonishment of the gods. Legend has it that these three crows of Arima were then considered supernatural and became the only birds permitted to live in the town.

A few yards uphill from the Goshobessho, lies the same shrine, which takes more than 50 rugged stone steps to climb. Cloaked in silence, the shrine houses the protecting deity of Arima Onsen and has the three crows carved into the entrance doorway. Wooden wishing plaques called Ema brush against each

other and water gushes out of an elaborate tsukubai (stone basin), marking the only two sounds heard across the compound. A peek inside the sanctum sanctorum reveals a very simple and beautiful design, with a prominent empty space in the centre, reiterating the ancient Japanese perspective of less is more.

Back at the resort, Im staring at another sparsely furnished space - the community onsen bathhouse. Im wondering whether to plunge into the pool of steaming hot, reddish-gold waters of the onsen, or simply return to the reassuring confines of my villa. My trepidation is mainly because Im told that one can only take a dip in this onsen completely in the nude - a very common community bath custom in onsen tradition, but a bit of a culture shock to me.

Lying before me is the Kinsen, or golden hot-spring, one of the three types of natural springs found in Arima. The strongly basic ferruginous sodium chloride spring is known for its beauty benefits, as the thermal water leaves the skin extremely smooth and moisturised. Therapeutic effects of this onsen include healing of external wounds, menstrual

Im wondering whether to plunge into the pool of steaming hot, reddish-gold waters of the onsen, or simply return to the

reassuring confines of my villa.

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disorders and infertility in women, chronic digestive disease, rheumatism and even motor paralysis. It is also known to help in therapy for active tuberculosis, malignant tumours, severe heart disease and anaemia, among other acute ailments.

The hot springs in Arima surface from up to 60 metres underground, at temperatures more than 98 degrees Centigrade, Kanai informed me earlier. Special pipes are then used to route it straight to the bath houses of our two properties, where the temperature is controlled at around 40 degrees

Centigrade. A walk around the town, which is small enough to be explored entirely on foot, uncovers a number of active onsen sources, seen steaming and whistling out of long pipes. Spices, condiments, confectionery, and tea are sold at every corner of the narrow, steeply sloping main street, which was once the path of a flowing stream across the town. Local life is simple and relatively uninterrupted by the world outside, shielded by Mount Rokko and wrapped in the rich heritage of the traditional onsen. However, the esoteric charms of

this ancient spa town have attracted travellers from across the world, including some who even set up a small Western colony here, in the pre-World War II era. As for me, I did eventually take a plunge into the onsens hypnotic waters and in doing so, surrendered myself to a unique spiritual experience one that stayed with me long after the effects of the onsen had worn off.

How to Get There Emirates flies direct and daily from Dubai to Osaka. The business class service aboard the Airbus A380 offers the perfect start to the spa vacation.With the chauffer-driven service from your doorstep to the Emirates business class lounge in Dubai, and from in-flight services to regionally-inspired onboard gourmet dining, the Emirates business class service aims to be a seamless luxury travel experience. Emirates also flies daily between Dubai and Doha, Qatar.

Where to StayArimasansoh Goshobessho, Arima Onsen.Guests have the option to choose between villas or two-storey maisonettes at the resort, established on the site of the ancient Arima Kiyomizu temple. Both types of stay offer views of the Kiyomizu lake or the Taki river and come with private thermal rooms and access to the community onsen. www.goshobessho.com/en

Inside the gates of the Arimasansoh Goshobessho hot springs resorts 1.2 acre estate.

A traditional zen garden inside the Arimasansoh Goshobessho.

One of 10 luxury villas at the Arimasansoh Goshobessho, Arima Onsen.

The hot springs in Arima surface from upto 60 meters underground, at temperatures

more than 98 degree centigrade.