You are invited to festive San Antonio, Texas for CSA’s 41st Annual Meeting and National Symposium. Enjoy warm weather and a friendly atmosphere while taking part in the week’s scheduled activities, including research presentations, panel discussions, and specialty workshops.

San Antonio is still the top tourist destination in Texas for a host of good reasons. The famous Riverwalk is crowded with great restaurants, friendly ducks, and beautiful views. San Antonio has become a hotbed of foodies and chefs experimenting with all kinds of cuisines. Mariachi music echoes through the streets of downtown. This family-friendly city has something for everyone! Whether you are a “repeat defender” from the 1992 San Antonio CSA Symposium, or a new-comer to the city, get ready for old favorites, new experiences, and a grand time à la mode.

Hotel: Marriott Plaza San AntonioThe Marriott Plaza has had a change of name and an upgrade in amenities, but it is the same hotel CSA utilized for the 1992 symposium. The beautiful grounds with the strolling peacocks and pheasants, charming historic buildings on the grounds, and pool will tempt you to stay outside rather than attend the presentations.

The Marriott Plaza is within walking distance of the Riverwalk, La Villita Historic Art Village, the Alamo, the Hemisphere Park, the Institute of Texan Cultures, King William Historic District, and a host of other attractions.

Weather: It’s Texas. We fully believe in testing your ability to brave the elements by trapping you in meat-locker standard hotels before tossing you into the outdoor sauna. If you bring a raincoat, it won’t rain. If you don’t, it will. Texas believes in irony. Summer begins in South Texas somewhere between January and April. So the late May temperatures will likely be warm. High temperatures are typically in the mid-80s (or warmer) and lows in the mid-60s. To check before you leave home: http://www.weather.com/weather/today/l/78205:4:US

Costume Society of America’s41st Annual Meeting and National Symposium

May 27-May 30, 2015The Southwestern Region of the Costume Society of America

welcomes you to

San Antonio, TexasLalon Alexander and Theresa Alexander, Symposium Co-Chairs

Edie Sanford-Tuazon, President, Southwestern Region

KEYNOTE SPEAKERThis year we are happy to welcome Paul Tazewell, renowned costume designer.

Paul has many years of experience designing. He has designed extensively in the United States and internationally for theatre, dance and opera. Selected credits include:

Broadway: Most recently, Paul has been working on Doctor Zhivago, but other credits include A Streetcar Named Desire (Tony Award nomination), Memphis (Tony Award nomination), In the Heights (Tony Award nominee), The Color Purple (Tony Award nominee), A Raisin in the Sun, Caroline, or Change (Lucille Lortel Award nomination, Outstanding Costume Design), Boston Marriage (Lucille Lortel Award nomination, Outstanding Costume Design), Bring in ‘Da Noise, Bring in ‘Da Funk (Tony Nomination), On the Town, Def Poetry Jam, Elaine Strich at Liberty, Fascinating Rhythm.

Off-Broadway: Flesh and Blood, Harlem Song, Dina Was, City Center Encores! Li’l Abner, Once Around the City, Before It Hits Home, Playboy of the West Indies (Lincoln Center Theatre). Joseph Papp Public Theatre: Boston Marriage, One Flea Spare, Henry V, Venus, Blade to the Heat.

Regional: Arena Stage, The Guthrie Theatre, The Goodman Theatre, LaJolla Playhouse, Center Stage, Hartford Stage, Long Wharf Theatre, Seattle Rep, Trinity Rep, Cincinnati Playhouse, The Alliance Theatre, Milwaukee Rep, Glimmerglass Opera, New York City 2SHUD��2SHUD�7KHDWUH�RI�6W��/RXLV��3DFLÀF�1RUWKZHVW�%DOOHW��%RVWRQ�%DOOHW�

Award and honors include: Lucille Lortel Award for On the Town, two Helen Hayes Awards for Outstanding Costume Design (The African Company Presents Richard III and Peer Gynt), a Michael Merritt Award, and the AUDELCO Award for Harlem Song, the TDF Irene Sharaff Young Master Award and a Princess Grace Fellowship.

Paul is a graduate of North Carolina School of the Arts and NYU Tisch School of the Arts.

1RWH�WKDW�WKH�&6$�RIÀFH�ZLOO�EH�LQ�WKH�/D�3OXPD�5RRP�DQG�DYDLODEOH�during regular business hours.

Silent Auction items are prefered pre-mailed, but should be taken to the &6$�RIÀFH�LQ�WKH�/D�3OXPD�5RRP�EHWZHHQ��DP�DQG��SP�LI�\RX�EULQJ�

them with you.

Additional information about Tours, Workshops, Awards, the Angels Project, and other events given after the schedule.

The following events are held at the Marriott Plaza, unless otherwise specified.

Monday, May 25th

6:00pm-7:30pm Angels meeting - Victoria’s House

Tuesday, May 26th

8:00am-6:00pm Angels Project: the Heritage Museum, Seguin, TXThe Heritage Museum in Seguin, a small town 45 minutes from San Antonio, is the recipient of this year’s project.

6:00pm-10:00pm Board meeting – Cavalier Room

7:30pm-8:30pm Board dinner (break during meeting) - Victoria’s House

Wednesday, May 27th

9:00am-12:00pm Board Meeting - Cavalier Room

9:00am-9:15am Pre-Symposium Tour to New Braunfels (German Texas) - Meet bus at designated point (return about 4pm).

9:00am-11:00am Care of Collections Workshop: Hair Today, Gone Tomorrow: Paper Hair for Mannequins - Arciniega Room

12:00pm-4:00pm Care of Collections Workshop: Couture du Jour: Examining Couture Construction with Claire Shaeffer - Pavo Real A/B

2:00pm-4:00pm Care of Collections Workshop: Just Bead It: Bead Embroidery Repair - Victoria’s House

12:00pm-8:00pm Registration - La Villita Foyer

SYMPOSIUM SCHEDULE

Wednesday Continued

12:00pm-8:00pm Scarf Trade - La Villita FoyerLast year we traded shoes…this year we are moving up the body and trading scarves. Bring one or more scarves to contribute to the selection and take one home that is more to your liking! If you forget to bring one, just contribute $5 to the donation pig.

1:00pm-4:00pm Endowment Trustees Meeting - Cavalier Room

4:30pm-5:30pm First Time Attendees Meet and Greet - Conference D

5:30pm-8:00pm Opening Reception - Conference Center CourtyardReception sponsored by the Marriott Plaza*Cash bar available.

6:00pm-7:00pm Costume Showcase (during reception) - Conference Center Courtyard

Thursday, May 28th

7:15am-8:15am Breakfast - La Villita C

7:15am-8:15am Committee Meetings - La Villita C

8:15am-11:00pm Registration - La Villita Foyer

8:15am-11:00pm Scarf Trade - La Villita Foyer

8:30am-9:50am Session 1A - Pavo Real A/B1. 3D Printing Stage Magic: Digitally Sculpted Notions and Décor

Joe Kucharski2. Defending the Right to Ownership: The circulation of a pair of serpent

headdresses Denise Nicole Green

3. Best Practices in the Collection of African Dress: The Mary Warren Collection Heather Marie Akou

8:30am-9:50am Session 1B – Cavalier Room1. Thin is In; Fat is Out: The Language of Early 20th Century Beauty and

BeyondCarmen N. Keist and Marcella Martin

2. The Fashion StylistCatherine Amoroso Leslie

3. Exhibiting the IndividualChristina Frank

Thursday Continued

8:30am-9:50am Session 1C – Conference D1. Kilts in Scotland Today: Nationalism, Culture, Class, and Commerce

Jacqueline Field2. 6WUHHW�IDVKLRQ�VW\OHV�LQÁXHQFH�E\�&KLQHVH�FXOWXUH

Li King and Shu-Hwa Lin3. Florence Eiseman and Helen Lee: A Look at Mid-Twentieth Century

Children’s Wear DesignJennifer Farley Gordon and Sara Marcketti

10:00am-11:00am Welcome/ Millia Davenport Publication Award Presentation - La Villita B/CA Queer History of Fashion: From the Closet to the CatwalkValerie Steele, editor

11:00am-12:00pm Lunch - La Villita B/C

12:15pm-12:30pm Load buses for McNay Museum and Speakers - Meet Bus at designated point

1:00pm-2:30pm Keynote Speaker Paul Tazewell

2:30pm-3:30pm Award of Excellence in Professional Costume Design/Technology Presentation

Deborah Nadoolman Landis, PhD

3:30pm-5:30pm Explore McNay Museum on your own

5:30pm -5:45pm Meet buses to travel to the Witte Museum

6:00pm-7:30pm Witte Museum ReceptionA reception with drinks and food from Picante Grill. *A cash bar will be available.

7:45pm-8:00pm Meet buses to return to hotel

Friday, May 29th

7:15am-8:15am Breakfast - La Villita C

7:15am-8:15am Regional Committee Meeting - La Villita C

8:15am-5:30pm Registration - La Villita Foyer

8:15am-5:30pm Scarf Trade - La Villita Foyer

8:30am-5:00pm Silent Auction - La Villita A/B

Friday Continued

8:30am-10:10am Session 2A - Cavalier1. The Fashionable Side of Churchill Weavers

Adam MacPharlain2. “For She’s Got a Handsome Pair”: L. Candee & Company Rubber Shoes

Arlesa Shephard3. The Growth of the Ready-to-Wear Industry in California

Shelly Foote4. Virginia Woods Bellamy: Knitting Designer and Fashion Innovator

Susan M. Strawn and Ann W. Baaten

8:30am-10:10am Session 2B - Pavo Real A/B1. Archiving the Twenty First Century Designer

Dana Goodwin and Joy Davis2. A Flapper’s Dilemma: Altering a 1920s Beaded Dress

Jacqueline WayneGuite3. A “Primer of Problems”: Millinery Industry Struggles During the

1920s-1950sJennifer Farley Gordon and Sara Marcketti

4. The World According to (the Men of) The Illustrated Milliner, 1900-1920Nadine L Stewart

8:30am-10:10am Session 2C - La Villita CScholar’s Round Table - Credit Where Credit is DueA discussion on intellectual property.

9:00am-10:15am Poster Set Up Time - Victoria’s House

10:15am-11:15am Poster Session - Victoria’s House1. Exploring the Application of Virtual Design Software in Historic

Costume and Textiles CollectionsDilia Lopez-Gydosh

2. Teaching Survey of Historic Costume: Innovative Learning ApproachesSara B. Marcketti

3. Exploring Chinese Design Theory from Dragon RobesShu-Hwa Lin

4. The Importance of Hats in Children’s LiteratureBeverly Chico

5. Visible Signs: Sign Language in Costume on StageLeslie Littell

6. Egyptian Ceiling CoatPhyllis Bell Miller

7. Exploration of 3D Texture Design Techique with Organza FabricHelen S. Koo and Seoha Min

8. Robe de Style RevisitedCasey Stannard

9. The Feminine Gaze: Female Fashion Photographers from Midcentury AmericaMarie Botkin

Friday Continued

11:30am-1:00pm Lunch - La Villita Foyer - sit out on the grounds, in the foyer, OR

11:30pm-1:00pm Extra Seating For Lunch - Arciniega House

1:00pm-2:40pm Session 3A - Cavalier1. From Washington DC to Washington State: Mollie Parnis and the

Fashioning of Lady Bird JohnsonAnnette Becker

2. Hats Off To Lila Carla Anderson Perez, University of the Incarnate Word

3. The Michel Arnaud Fashion Photography ArchiveMeghan Grossman Hansen

4. A Hidden History: Zelda Wynn ValdesNancy Deihl

1:00pm-2:40pm Session 3B - Pavo Real A/B1. 0DOH�)DVKLRQ�LQ�WKH�&LW\�RI�*XDGDODMDUD�GXULQJ�WKH�3RUÀULDWR

Beatriz Bastarrica Mora2. Men’s Nineteenth Century Period Patterns: Preserving the Craft

Judi Dawainis3. Analysis of Three Machine-Knitted Men’s Coats from the Late

Eighteenth CenturyTaylor McClean

1:00pm-2:40pm Session 3C - La Villita C1. Deceptively Practical: Hair Dressing and Hair Care During the Last

Quarter of the Eighteenth Century Abigail Cox

2. Chemise Dresses and Embodiment Practices in France 1778-1799 Anne Bissonnette

3. “To her Ribbands and Lace, and Caps give a Grace”: Fashioning Gender in Eighteenth-Century Women’s Caps Sarah Woodyard

2:40pm-3:10pm Break - La Villita Foyer

3:20pm-4:40pm Session 4A - Pavo Real A/B1. Hidden Treasure: The Importance of Dress at Turtle Bay Exploration

Park Heather Vaughan Lee

2. The Politicization of Fashion in Virtual Queer Spaces: A Case Study of Saint Harridan and Tomboy Tailors Kelly Reddy-Best

3. )DVKLRQ�DQG�,GHQWLW\�LQ�WKH�7ZHQW\�ÀUVW�&HQWXU\�1HWZRUN�Mindy Meissen

3:20pm-4:40pm Session 4B - La Villita CPanel Discussion: Teaching Fashion History: Pedagogy and PracticeHolly Kent

Friday Continued

5:30pm-8pm Fundraiser and Tea Reception at Historic Villa FinaleMembers of CSA will have the opportunity to tour an amazing 1876 home in the King William Historic District while enjoying a traditional tea on the beautiful grounds of the home. *A cash bar will be available.

8:30pm-10:00pm Churros con Chocolate and Chardonnay Endowment Donors Reception (by invitation only, please)

Saturday, May 30th

7:30am-9:00am Silent Auction Pickup - La Villita A

7:45am-8:45am Breakfast - La Villita C

9:00am-5:00pm Marketplace - Conference Center C/D

9:00am-12:00pm Registration - La Villita Foyer

9:00am-12:00pm Scarf Trade - La Villita Foyer

9:00am-9:45am Stella Blum Presentation - La Villita B/CDressing the Diaspora Militant: Loyalist Uniforms and Loyalist Identity in the Revolutionary AtlanticMatthew Keagle, ABD: Bard Graduate Center

10:00am-10:45am Richard Martin Exhibition Award Presentation - La Villita B/CInspiring Beauty: 50 Years of Ebony Fashion FairCo-curators: Joy Bivins and Virginia HeavenChicago Hisory Museum, Chicago, Illinois

11:30am-1:00pm Lunch-Regional Meetings - La Villita B/C

1:15pm-2:00pm Awards - La Villita B/C

2:00pm-5:00pm Closing/Annual Meeting - La Villita B/C

5:00pm-8:00pm Board Meeting - Cavalier

Sunday, May 31st

7:45am-8:00am Pickup for Post-Symposium Tour - The Missions of Old San Antonio - Meet bus at designated point (return around 2pm).

8:45am-9:00am Pickup for Post-Symposium Tour - Dream Makers: Studios of San Antonio - Meet bus at designated point (return around 1pm).

Detailed Information about Workshops, Tours, Speakers, and Events

Pre-Symposium - Tuesday2015 Angels Project

The Seguin-Guadalupe County Heritage Museum in Seguin, a small town 45 minutes from San Antonio, is the recipient of this year’s project. This invaluable work will be coordinated by CSA angels Margaret Ordonez and Martha Grimm and gives you a chance to volunteer for a good cause. The clothing and textile collection is typical of a local history museum (wedding dresses, military and sports uniforms, quilts) but there is one extremely unusual group of clothing, a collection of dresses from the seven Timmerman sisters. These seven sisters all lived together on a ranch, never married, and made their own clothes: apparently from one bolt of fabric at a time since they all dressed alike! This is a museum that can use the Angels’ help with their collections since they have an extremely small staff. Food and housing will be provided for our volunteers by friends of the museum and staff. If you would like to volunteer, contact the Angels Project Volunteer Coordinator, Patti Borrello, 269-321-0410, C. 269-352-0432, patti.a.borrello@wmich.edu

WednesdayPre-Symposium Tour: German Texas

Explore the German Heritage of Texas in New Braunfels

*HUPDQ\�LV�SUREDEO\�QRW�WKH�ÀUVW�FRXQWU\�RQH�WKLQNV�RI�DV�VHQGLQJ�LPPLJUDQWV�WR�7H[DV��EXW�EHJLQQLQJ�in 1830s, tens of thousands of Germans came to Texas. Even today, German Texans are the third largest ethnic group in the state. New Braunfels was founded in 1845 and many examples of German vernacular architecture are still in use. First stop is at the Sophienburg Museum where visitors are encouraged to LPDJLQH�WKH�FRXUDJH�WKDW�LW�WRRN�WKH�ÀUVW�*HUPDQ�LPPLJUDQWV�WR�FURVV�WKH�RFHDQ�DQG�PDNH�WKHLU�ZD\�LQWR�Central Texas to establish a new colony at the edge of Indian territory. There is also a fun gift shop.

After a German Texas lunch at a local restaurant, more German treasures can be seen at the Heritage Museum, a collection of historic structures relocated to an 11.5 acre site. The 1858 Breustedt-Dillen house is an early Texas farmhouse of typical German fachwerk construction; it houses a collection of over seventy pieces of Texas Biedermeier furniture (circa 1845 – 1880). An 1850s limestone and log structure with a summer kitchen and smokehouse and a furnished 1847 two room dog-trot cabin illustrate two of the housing styles of early Germans. A barn houses a collection of antique furniture maker’s tools as well as a miniature replica of the Scholl Cabinet Shop.

/LPLWHG�WR�WKH�ÀUVW����DSSOLFDQWV��&RVW�����HDUO\�ELUG�RU�����ODWH�UHJLVWUDQW��6DPH�SULFHV�IRU�PHPEHU��student, non-member, or guest. The tour will leave Wednesday at 9:00 am from the hotel and return around 4:00 pm. *Bring money for your German lunch.

Wednesday Contd. - Care of Collection Workshops

Hair Today, Gone Tomorrow: Paper Hair for Mannequins Arciniega Room 9:00am-11:00am

What to do with that Bald Mannequin. Learn how to easily (and inexpensively) create appropriate hairstyles out of watercolor paper or wired ribbon. The session will be taught by Sallie Thomas and Carol Canty, of the famed “Witte Wonders”.

/LPLWHG�WR�WKH�ÀUVW����DSSOLFDQWV��&RVW�����HDUO\�ELUG�RU�����ODWH�UHJLVWUDQW��6DPH�SULFHV�IRU�PHPEHU��student, non-member, or guest.

Couture du Jour: Examining Couture Constructions Pavo Real A/B 12:00pm-4:00pm

Created for royalty and the unbelievably wealthy, haute couture encompasses meticulous workmanship, exquisite fabrics, and beautiful ÀW��7KURXJK�H[WHQVLYH�UHVHDUFK�LQ�PXVHXP�FROOHFWLRQV��FRXWXUH�workrooms, and her private collection, Claire has discovered many haute couture secrets. She will bring along some of her favorite designs from Chanel, YSL, Givenchy, and Dior and take you behind the seams to examine their construction.

An independent researcher, Claire Shaeffer is a nationally known and respected designer, teacher, and author of 20 books and DVDs. Her books include: Couture Sewing Techniques, The Couture Cardigan Jacket: Sewing Secrets of a Chanel Collector, and Sewing for the Apparel Industry. She designs Claire Shaeffer’s Custom Couture Collection for Vogue Patterns, writes regularly for several magazines and teaches couture workshops in Palm Springs, CA. She was awarded the Professional Association of Custom Clothiers Lifetime Achievement Award in 2003 and the American Sewing Guild Hall of Fame Award in 2011.

/LPLWHG�WR�WKH�ÀUVW����DSSOLFDQWV��&RVW�����HDUO\�ELUG�RU�����ODWH�registrant. Same prices for member, student, non-member, or guest.

Just Bead It: Bead Embroidery Repair Victoria’s House 2:00pm-4:00pm

How to repair damaged bead embroidery of prevent further damage from occuring. Learn how to tell the difference between chainstitch (tambour) embroidery and traditional needle bead embroidery, how to stop damage in progress, and how to repair already incurred damage. Hands-on lesson taught by Lalon and Theresa Alexander of Elephant Embellishments.

/LPLWHG�WR�WKH�ÀUVW����DSSOLFDQWV��&RVW�����HDUO\�ELUG�RU�����ODWH�registrant. Same prices for member, student, non-member, or guest.

Afternoon Tours on Your Own

Heart of Downtown

Texas’s top attraction is the Alamo, located just blocks from the hotel. Explore it and then catch a trolley down to the Mercado to shop followed by a margarita at one of its two fun Mexican restaurants. Or stop off at San Fernando Cathedral, begun in 1738 by WKH�&DQDU\�,VODQGHUV���,WV�PDJQLÀFHQW�DOWDUSLHFH�ZDV�installed in 2011 as part of the most recent renewal project. Or wait until evening and see the beautiful sound and light show illustrating the history of San Antonio projected on to its walls.

The Riverwalk

The Riverwalk, second only to the Alamo as San Antonio’s most well known attraction, is now fully landscaped along a 14.5 mile route from the southern most mission, Espada, to Brackenridge Park. About two miles up river from the hotel is the former Pearl Brewery, now home to the Culinary Institute of

America’s San Antonio campus, and some of the city’s best restaurants, shops, and bars. Access to the Riverwalk is just two blocks from the hotel. You can walk, rent a bicycle or even kayak (south of downtown) the entire length of the Riverwalk and enjoy the diversity of San Antonio’s neighborhoods and environment. Get on a River Taxi and ride the length of the river from downtown to the Pearl and enjoy the many sights that are visible or get off at one of the many stops, including the Museum of Art and a variety of eating and drinking establishments, then catch a ride back to the hotel.

King William Area

Just cross César Chavez Street and in a couple of blocks you will be in the fascinating King William area, ÀUVW�ODLG�RXW�LQ�WKH�����V���7KH�HDUOLHVW�KRXVHV�RI�WKH�����V�DQG�����V�DUH�VLPSOH�RQH�VWRU\�EXLOGLQJV�ZLWK�thick masonry walls, shutters, and porches. Later structures built by the German elite feature various Victorian high styles, including Second Empire, Romanesque Revival, and Italianate. Two homes built in the 1870s are open to the public: the Steves House and Villa Finale, where the Friday afternoon tea will take place.

Hemisfair Park

Also just blocks from the hotel is Hemisfair Park with historic houses, a children’s playground, a revolving restaurant atop the tower and the Institute of Texan Cultures that showcases the ethnic diversity of Texas through photographs and artifacts, including plenty of textiles.

A Suggested Evening Event

There are plenty of restaurants and bars in downtown San Antonio to enjoy in the evening but something special to San Antonio is the Arneson River Theater Fiesta Noche del Rio. Again, just a short walk from your hotel, you can enjoy the colorful sights and sounds of this annual presentation featuring folkloric music, dancing and costumes of Mexico, Spain, Argentina and Texas. Sponsored by the Kiwanis club it raises thousands of dollars for local children’s charities. There will be performances at 8:00 on both Friday the 29th and Saturday the 30th. It might be a good idea to go ahead and order your tickets since it always sells out fairly quickly. KWWS���ÀHVWDQRFKHVD�FRP�

Museums The Institute of Texan Cultures on Hemisfair Plaza (across the street from the hotel)

Exhibits and collections interpret the rich cultural tapestry that makes this state what it is today. Long-term and rotating exhibits present stories of Texans past and present, with an emphasis on the heritage of the many different peoples who chose to make this their home. Two special exhibits during May focus upon contributions of Arab-Americans and the lives of Sikhs who have lived in Texas since 1900. www.texancultures.com

Briscoe Western Art Museum

Located at 210 W. Market and accessible by the Riverwalk or by trolley, the Briscoe showcases artifacts and art of the west. www.briscoemuseum.org

San Antonio Fire Museum

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McNay Museum

/RFDWHG�DW������1RUWK�1HZ�%UDXQIHOV��WKH�0F1D\�LV�WKH�ÀUVW�PRGHUQ�art museum in Texas. Its collection focuses upon 19th through 21st century European and American paintings, sculptures, and photographs but also includes holdings in Medieval and Renaissance DUW��RQH�RI�WKH�ÀQHVW�FROOHFWLRQV�RI�SULQWV�DQG�GUDZLQJV�LQ�WKH�Southwest, the art of New Mexico and the exceptional Tobin Collection of Theatre Arts. www.mcnayart.org

San Antonio Museum of Art

SAMA is a comprehensive art museum but its collection of Latin American art from the colonial period to the present day makes it a “have to” visit for anyone interested in this area. It is accessible on foot via the Riverwalk or by water taxi. https://www.samuseum.org

Witte Museum

The Witte at 3507 Broadway is accessible by city bus. It is the oldest museum in San Antonio and focuses upon history, science and the art of Texas. Currently undergoing a major remodeling, the HEB Body Adventure, an interactive exhibit area focused upon health and wellness and the South Texas Heritage Center are both open. Both are family friendly. wittemuseum.org

During Symposium Events Thursday

Millia Davenport Publication Award Presentation: A Queer History of Fashion: From the Closet to the Catwalk - Valerie Steele, editor

La Villita B/C 10:00am-11:00am

A Queer History of Fashion: from the Closet to the Catwalk deals with WKH�LQÁXHQFH�RI�/*%7�SHRSOH�RQ�IDVKLRQ�IURP�WKH���WK�FHQWXU\�WR�WKH�present, not only as fashion designers, but also as trendsetters and creators of gay styles that had an impact on fashion.

Valerie Steele is director and chief curator of The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology, where she has personally organized more than 20 exhibitions since 1997, including The Corset, London Fashion, Gothic: Dark Glamour, Shoe Obsession, Daphne Guinness, A Queer History of Fashion, and Dance and Fashion. She is also founder and editor in chief of Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body & Culture��WKH�ÀUVW�SHHU�UHYLHZHG��VFKRODUO\�MRXUQDO�LQ�)DVKLRQ�6WXGLHV���

Steele combines serious scholarship (and a Yale Ph.D.) with a rare ability to communicate with general audiences. She is author or co-author of more than 20 books, including Fashion and Eroticism, Paris Fashion, Women of Fashion, Fetish: Fashion, Sex and Power, The Corset: A Cultural History, Gothic: Dark Glamour, Japan Fashion Now, The Impossible Collection Fashion, The Berg Companion to Fashion, and Fashion Designers A-Z: The Collection of The Museum at FIT, as well as contributing essays to publications, such as Fashion and Art and Impressionism, Fashion & Modernity. Her books have been translated into Chinese, French, German, Italian, Portuguese, and Russian.

As author, curator, editor, and public intellectual, Valerie Steele has been instrumental in creating the PRGHUQ�ÀHOG�RI�IDVKLRQ�VWXGLHV�DQG�LQ�UDLVLQJ�DZDUHQHVV�RI�WKH�FXOWXUDO�VLJQLÀFDQFH�RI�IDVKLRQ��6KH�KDV�appeared on many television programs, including The Oprah Winfrey Show and Undressed: The Story of Fashion. Described in The Washington Post as one of “fashion’s brainiest women” and by Suzy Menkes as “The Freud of Fashion,” she was listed among “Fashion’s 50 Most Powerful” by the Daily News and as one of “The People Shaping the Global Fashion Industry” in the Business of Fashion 500 (2014).

Valerie SteelePhoto Credit Aaron Cobbett

Thursday Continued

Keynote Speaker Paul TazewellMcNay Museum Auditorium 1:00pm-2:30pmPlease see pg 2 for speaker information

Award of excellence in Professional Costume Design/Technology Presentation: Deborah Nadoolman Landis, PhD

McNay Museum Auditorium 2:30pm-3:30pm

Deborah Nadoolman Landis, costume designer and historian, received an MFA in Costume Design from UCLA and a PhD in the History of Design from the Royal College of Art, London. Her distinguished career includes the horror/comedy Burke & Hare (2010), the classic Animal House (1978), An American Werewolf in London (1981), Raiders of the Lost Ark (1981), Coming to America (1988, for which she was nominated for an Academy Award™), and the costumes for the groundbreaking music video Michael Jackson’s Thriller (1983). Most recently, she received the 2015 Edith Head Award for the Advancement and Education of the Art of Costume Design and spoke during the 17th Costume Designers Guild Awards.

Professor Landis is the author of many books including Screencraft/Costume Design (Focal Press, 2003), Dressed: A Century of Hollywood Costume Design (Harper Collins, 2007), Hollywood Sketchbook: A Century of Costume Illustration (Harper Collins, 2012), FilmCraft: Costume Design (Ilex Press, 2012) and the 2012 catalogue for the landmark exhibition, Hollywood Costume, which she curated at the Victoria & Albert Museum in London, and is on tour now at the Phoenix Art Museum. She is currently curating an exhibition on the television series Mad Men for The Museum of Arts and Design in New York opening in 2015. Deborah Nadoolman Landis served as a two-term president (2001-2007) of the Costume Designer’s Guild, Local 892, of which she has been a member for more than 35 years. She is a Governor for the Academy of Motion Picture Arts & Sciences.

Professor Landis holds the David C. Copley Chair and is the Founding Director of the David C. Copley Center for Costume Design at UCLA’s School of Theater, Film and Television.

Visit to the McNay Museum 3:30pm-5:30pm

The McNay is home to the outstanding Tobin Collection of Theatre Arts. Drawn from the extensive collection are two exhibits which have been held RYHU�VSHFLÀFDOO\�IRU�WKH�&6$�YLVLW���´'HVLJQ��7KHDWUH�DQG�)DVKLRQµ�IHDWXUHV�costumes and designs from Diaghilelv’s Ballet Russes and “All the Rage in Paris” focuses on pochoir, a hand stenciling technique that produces vibrant FRORUV�DQG�EROG�SDWWHUQV�DQG�ÁRXULVKHG�LQ�WKH�SHULRG�RI�WKH�%DOOHWV�5XVVHV��Rare volumes and portfolios from the Tobin Collection and hats and evening ZUDSV�IURP�WKH�:LWWH�0XVHXP·V�+LVWRULF�&ORWKLQJ�&ROOHFWLRQ�UHÁHFW�WKH�gorgeous designs and colors of the prints and the fashions they inspired.

The space for key note speaker and costume award ceremony has been graciously donated by the McNay Museum.

Deborah LandisPhoto credit: David X

Prutting/BFAnyc.

Reception at the Witte Museum 6:00pm-7:30pm

A reception at the Witte Museum in the Memorial Auditorium will give guests a chance to enjoy the beautiful landscaping around the museum that backs on to the San Antonio River and to enjoy drinks and food from Picante Grill. Guests may visit the B. Naylor Morton Research and Collections Center for a special showing of the of the highly embellished gowns and trains worn by the Order of the Alamo royalty during Fiesta. The museum is undergoing major remodeling at this time and the viewing of the royal gowns is a special treat for CSA members courtesy of the collections staff.

The space for the reception has been graciously donated by the Witte Museum.

Friday

Scholar’s Roundtable - Credit Where Credit is Due

La Villita C 8:30am-10:10am

The 2015 Scholars Roundtable will focus on intellectual property. The panelists will frame issue from their different perspectives. Topics will the include fair use of published works, access to images for teaching, exhibition, or publication, concerns about copyright, and design piracy. The discussion will then be opened to the audience, with the panelists providing questions, answers, moderation or instigation as needed. Friday

Marriott Plaza La Villita ballroom and interior of Victoria’s House

CSA Fundraiser:Afternoon Tea at Villa Finale

5:30pm-8pm

On Friday, May 29th, members of CSA will have the opportunity to tour an amazing 1876 home in the King William Historic District while enjoying a traditional tea on the beautiful grounds of the home. Villa Finale, the former home of Walter Mathis, local preservationist and inveterate collector, now belongs to the National Trust for Historic Preservation. The home itself is an excellent example of the mixed architectural styles that abound in the area, and the inside is a veritable treasure chest of antiques.

The collection of more than 12,000 objects includes Russian icons, hat pins, snuff boxes, cigarette cases, pill boxes, serving platters, elaborate chandeliers, cow-shaped creamers, beer steins, retablos, knives, paintings, letter openers and Texana. A collection of Napoleonic materials is believed to be one of the most complete in the country. There are no uncovered surfaces in this home! However, in honor of the CSA special event, space has been made for displays of appropriate historical clothes selected from the Witte Museum’s collection. YLOODÀQDOOH�RUJ�

High tea will be served amidst the tours. *A cash bar will be available.

Tickets for the fundraiser are $75-80 per person. /LPLWHG�WR�WKH�ÀUVW����SHRSOH��9LOOD�)LQDOH�LV�ORFDWHG�DW�����.LQJ�:LOOLDP�6WUHHW��6DQ�Antonio, TX 78204 and is easily reached by walking along the river.

Dress: Dress for Afternoon Tea. This can be contemporary dress or you can honor the house’s early days of construction by wearing period dress from the eras spanning 1876-1914. Hats are welcome, but please wear lawn-appropriate shoes.

Photo Credits: Interior Ray Perez; Exterior Carol Highsmith

Saturday

Stella Blum Presentation:Dressing the Diaspora Militant: Loyalist Uniforms and Loyalist Identity in the Revolutionary AtlanticMatthew Keagle, ABD: Bard Graduate Center

La Villita B/C 9:00am-9:45am

Uniforms of Americans that remained loyal to Britain during the American Revolution survive in disproportionate numbers to those of their foes in the young United States, leaving a surprisingly rich material record for a dispossessed people. This presentation seeks to add a material dimension to the growing perspectives on loyalists by examining the lives and afterlives of their clothing. The result of UHFHQW�UHVHDUFK�LW�ZLOO�VXJJHVW�KRZ�D�VRSKLVWLFDWHG�DUWLFXODWLRQ�RI�PLOLWDU\�GUHVV�UHÁHFWHG�OR\DOLVWV·�VRFLDO�and political understanding of themselves in the broader imperial world during a time of crisis.

Matthew Keagle is the Curator of the Fort Ticonderoga Museum, and a PhD Candidate at the Bard Graduate Center. His research focuses on the material and cultural history of military dress in the 18th century Atlantic world.

Richard Martin Exhibition Award Presentation:Inspiring Beauty: 50 Years of Ebony Fashion FairCo-curators: Joy Bivins and Virginia HeavenChicago Hisory Museum, Chicago, Illinois

La Villita B/C 10:00am-10:45am

Inspiring Beauty: 50 Years of Ebony Fashion examines the history of the traveling fashion show, produced by Chicago’s Johnson Publishing Company, that brought the world’s best fashion to majority black and female audiences in the United States, Canada, and the Caribbean. With more than VL[W\�ÀYH�FDUHIXOO\�VHOHFWHG�HQVHPEOHV��WKH�H[KLELWLRQ�captures the style, performance, and aesthetic excitement that Ebony Fashion Fair delivered for ÀYH�GHFDGHV��7KH�H[KLELWLRQ�H[SORUHV�KRZ�WKH�VKRZ�helped create new images of blackness as well as the vision of Eunice Johnson—her relationships with icons of the fashion industry and her promotion of African American fashion talent. Ultimately, the exhibition celebrates the power of fashion to inspire and transform.

Joy Bivins served as exhibition curator for Inspiring Beauty: 50 Years of Ebony Fashion Fair. Bivins has been a curator at the Chicago History Museum since 2003 and has worked on diverse exhibitions that examine the city and the nation’s history. Virginia Heaven served as the Consulting Costume Curator and is an Associate Professor of Fashion Studies at Columbia College Chicago.

Inspiring Beauty: 50 Years of Ebony Fashion

Post Symposium Tours

Post Tour #1 The Missions of Old San Antonio

San Antonio de Valero (The Alamo) is the number one tourist attraction in Texas for both in and out of state visitors. However, it LV�RQO\�RQH�RI�WKH�ÀYH�PLVVLRQV�WKDW�ZHUH�HVWDEOLVKHG�DORQJ�WKH�6DQ�Antonio River from 1719 to 1731. Join a local historian on Sunday, May 31st and visit each of the four downriver missions to understand the important roles they played not only in the establishment of the city, but also the beginning of ranching and vaqueros (cowboys). The approximately four hour tour includes Mission Concepción, the oldest unrestored stone church in America and San José, known as the queen of missions for its size and beauty. San Jose has a visitor center that, together with the reconstructed grounds, provides insight into the everyday life of the missionaries and Indians. While all four of the missions are under the care of the National Parks Service, each church is an active parish with its own community. At San José, joyous

mariachi mass music pours out the doors of the church during the noon service. The southern most missions, San Juan de Capistrano and Espada, are the smallest but in many ways the most interesting. The tour will also stop to investigate the remnants of WKH�DFHTXLD�V\VWHP�WKDW�SURYLGHG�ZDWHU�WR�WKH�PLVVLRQV�DQG�WKHLU�ÀHOGV�DQG�WR�VHH�WKH�oldest aquaduct in the United States. http://www.nps.gov/saan/index.htm

/LPLWHG�WR�WKH�ÀUVW����DSSOLFDQWV��&RVW�����HDUO\�ELUG�RU�����ODWH�UHJLVWUDQW��6DPH�prices for member, student, non-member, or guest. The tour will leave Sunday at 7:45 am from the hotel and return around 2pm. *Bring money for a Mexican breakfast near the missions.

Post Tour #2 Dream Makers: Studios of San AntonioTour the private studio of Javier Castillo, one of the dressmakers who create the highly embellished gowns worn during San Antonio’s Fiesta. Then on to the studio of Jane Dunnewold, professional artist, teacher, and author of Art Cloth: A Guide to Surface Design on Fabric (Interweave 2010). Jane’s passions include the psychology of artistry and meaning. She is especially interested in writing and making as integral aspects of the creative process. Wind up at the outstanding Starline Costumes, owned by CSA’s own award winning Barbara Moore, creator of many mascots for businesses and sports teams, including the Air Force Academy “Bird.” For more than 40 years, Starline has costumed operas, plays and innumerable Halloween parties.

/LPLWHG�WR�WKH�ÀUVW����DSSOLFDQWV��&RVW�����HDUO\�bird or $30 late registrant. Same prices for member, student, non-member, or guest. The tour will leave Sunday at 8:45am from the hotel and return around 1pm.

Hotel Information

Marriott Plaza555 S. Alamo Street,San Antonio, Texas 78205(210) 229-1000www.marriott.com/satpl (info page)

For RESERVATIONS, click HERE:Book your group rate: 41st Annual Costume Society of America Meeting & Symposium

OR Call 1-800-228-9290 and give the code CSA and our property, Marriott Plaza – San Antonio or the group name, Costume Society of America. You can also visit www.marriott.com/satpl and enter the group code csacsaa in the group code box.

*Be aware that there are TWO Marriotts within a few blocks of each other in downtown San Antonio. Please ensure that you have selected the Marriott Plaza for reservations and that you tell taxi/shuttle drivers/GPS programs which Marriott.

The CSA room rates are:

Single and double rate = $149

There will be an additional $20.00 per person per night for each additional guest over double occupancy, up to four (4) people total per room per night.

Hotel room rates are quoted per room per night and are subject to applicable state and local taxes at time of check in. Taxes are currently 16.75% but are subject to change, plus a .76% franchise recovery fee(1 to 2 people rate of $149 will be: $149.00 + $24.96 + $1.13 = $175.09)

Over the dates of the conference the group will be guaranteed the lowest rate in-house excluding previously negotiated volume corporate business and /or government accounts or other similar agreements.

Reservations must be received by May 5, 2015 to assure CSA rates. Any UHVHUYDWLRQ�UHTXHVWV�UHFHLYHG�DIWHU�0D\���������LQFOXGLQJ�PRGLÀFDWLRQV�DQG�DGGLWLRQV�ZLOO�EH�DFFHSWHG�RQ�a space and rate available basis.

Wi-Fi: There is a complimentary level of Wi-Fi available in in all guestrooms and public spaces that allows users to check email, Facebook, and simple internet activities. Additional bandwidth can be purchased in your guestroom for $12.95/day.

Travel to the Marriott Plaza

By Car: The hotel is located between IH 37 and IH 10 and is easily accessible from either.Parking: Hotel self parking is $15 per day, Valet is $35 per day.

By Air: The San Antonio International Airport (SAT) is 9 miles North of the hotel. The hotel does NOT provide any proprietary shuttle service. However, there is a city-run shuttle service to downtown hotels. Please check here for prices and reserations: https://citytoursinc.com/airport-shuttle. Taxis to the hotel run approximately $28 each way. Website for airport ground transportation: http://www.sanantonio.gov/SAT/GroundTransportation.aspx

3KRWRV�RI�WKH�0DUULRWW�3OD]D�ÀUH�SLW�DQG�historic courtyard areas.

Registration InformationFees received by April 5, 2015 Apr 6 - May 5

Early Late

Full Symposium: May 27-30, 2014Wednesday evening-Saturday: Includes opening reception, 3 breakfasts, 3 lunches, Costume Showcase, Thursday Museum Visit/Reception, plus Symposium Abstracts

Member, full conference $ 375.00 $ 475.00Student Member, full conference $ 300.00 $ 400.00Non-Member, full conference $ 450.00 $ 550.00

Two Day Registration (either Thurs/Fri or Fri/Sat)Thursday-Friday: Includes 2 breakfasts, 2 lunches and museum tour/receptionOR Friday-Saturday: Includes 2 breakfasts and 2 lunches

Member $ 250.00 $ 300.00Student Member $ 200.00 $ 250.00Non-member $ 275.00 $ 325.00

One Day Registration (any given singular day)Wednesday: Includes Opening reception and Costume ShowcaseThursday: Includes breakfast, lunch, museum tours & receptionFriday: Includes breakfast and lunchSaturday: Includes breakfast and lunch

Member $ 175.00 $ 200.00Student Member $ 125.00 $ 150.00Non-member $ 225.00 $ 250.00

ExtrasCare of Collections Workshops

Hair Today, Gone Tomorrow: Paper Hair for Mannequins with Sallie 7KRPDV�DQG�&DURO�&DQW\��/LPLWHG�WR�WKH�ÀUVW����DSSOLFDQWV�

Wednesday,

$ 25.00 $ 30.00

Couture du Jour: Examining Couture Construction with Claire 6KDHIIHU��/LPLWHG�WR�WKH�ÀUVW����DSSOLFDQWV�

$ 30.00 $ 35.00

Just Bead it: Bead Embroidery Repair with Lalon and Theresa $OH[DQGHU��/LPLWHG�WR�WKH�ÀUVW����DSSOLFDQWV�

$ 25.00 $ 30.00

Pre-Symposium Tour��*HUPDQ�7H[DV��/LPLWHG�WR�WKH�ÀUVW����applicants.Member or Guest $ 80.00 $ 85.00

Fundraiser and Afternoon Tea at Historic Villa Finale - Member or Guest

$ 75.00 $ 80.00

Post Symposium Tours'UHDP�0DNHUV��6WXGLRV�RI�6DQ�$QWRQLR��/LPLWHG�WR�WKH�ÀUVW����applicants.Member or Guest $ 25.00 $ 30.00

7KH�0LVVLRQV�RI�2OG�6DQ�$QWRQLR��/LPLWHG�WR�WKH�ÀUVW����DSSOLFDQWV�Member or Guest $ 25.00 $ 30.00

Guest pass for Costume Showcase $ 30.00 $ 35.00

Guest pass for Keynote speaker and Witte Reception $ 60.00 $ 65.00

Cover our Bum Campaign:Would you like to help with the symposium this year? Be a symposium sponsor! You can opt to add a small donation to your registration and help out through the following levels to help Cover our Bum:

Pantaloon Level $ 10.00 $ 10.00Petticoat Level $ 25.00 $ 25.00

Pannier Level $ 50.00 $ 50.00Golden Corset Level $ 100.00 $ 100.00

Register Online: HERE(the URL is: https://netforum.avectra.com/eWeb/DynamicPage.

aspx?Site=CSA2&WebCode=EventDetail&evt_key=0b5429ff-413f-4c1f-a888-1fff28339e92 )

All registration is Online this year. However, if you need assistance please contact the 1DWLRQDO�2IÀFH�EHORZ�

Questions? We’re here to help: QDWLRQDO�RIÀFH#FRVWXPHVRFLHW\DPHULFD�FRP

or 706-615-2851

or 800-CSA-9447

Silent Auction+HOS�XV�UDLVH�IXQGV�WR�VXSSRUW�SURMHFWV�DQG�VHUYLFHV�WKDW�EHQHÀW�&6$�PHPEHUV�³�DQG�ZHHG�RXW�\RXU�bookshelves and closets at the same time! Please donate costume related books and magazines, wearable art, vintage treasures, lace, trims, jewelry, buttons, scarves and accessories, and other items of interest to &6$�PHPEHUV���,Q�JHQHUDO��WKHVH�VKRXOG�ÀW�LQWR�WKH�ZLQQLQJ�ELGGHU·V�VXLWFDVH���'RQDWLRQV�RI�SURIHVVLRQDO�services are also welcome. Donations are tax deductible, and you will receive an acknowledgment letter for your records.

3OHDVH�PDLO�\RXU�GRQDWLRQ�V��DKHDG�RI�WLPH�LI�SRVVLEOH��-XVW�VWXII�DV�PXFK�DV�SRVVLEOH�LQWR�D�ÁDW�UDWH�ER[�

Donation Form

Name

Address

City State Zip Code

Daytime Phone Alternate Phone

Email

Business, institution or individual to be listed in credits and acknowledgments:

Item Description Value Reserve Price(optional)

Check ifbringing tosymposium

Check ifmailing itemin advance

Mail form and donation by May 18, 2015 to: Michaele Haynes 1810 W. Mulberry San Antonio, Texas 78201

Questions? Contact: Michaele at 210-884-8139 or mthurgoodh@juno.com

1RWH��� ,Q�H[FHSWLRQDO�FDVHV��DQ�XQVROG�LWHP�PD\�EH�UHWXUQHG�LI�WKH�GRQRU�VSHFLÀHV�EHIRUHKDQG�DQG�SLFNV�LW�up or pays postage.