AMISOFT ECS-22W - · PDF fileFoam Volume (mL) 0. 50. 100. 150. 200. 250. 300. 350. ECS-22W. SLES. Sar. CMT. SSC. ... AMISOFT ® ECS-22W. ... product outstrips the sulfate product in

Research Institute for Bioscience Products & Fine Chemicals AJINOMOTO Co., Inc.

AMISOFT® ECS-22W Amino Acid Based Surfactant

for Natural Cosmetics & Sulfate-Free Personal Care Products

In-Cosmetics 2015

Nana Haraya

Cosmetic Group Research Institute for Bioscience Products & Fine Chemicals

Ajinomoto Co., Inc.

Innovation Seminars April 14th, 2015


Outline

• Background – Natural and Sulfate-Free Trend – Challenges for Formulating without Sulfates

• Properties of AMISOFT ® ECS-22W

– Mildness for Skin – Skin Conditioning Effect – Foamability

• Applications

– Sulfate-Free Shower Products – Natural Shower Products

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European Market Natural Personal Care Products

• The market has been growing at a fast rate. - Growing consumers demand for natural/organic personal

care products - New entrants and new product launches.

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Natural Personal Care Product Claims

Mildness

Free from

Eco-friendly &

Sustainable

Natural Green

DEA, preservatives, sulfates, PEG-derivatives silicones….

Harshness-Free Irritation-Free

Gentle

• Natural products feature a “free from” trend.

Skin Compatibility

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Impression


0%

5%

10%

15%

20%

2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014

Asia PacificL. AmericaM. East & AfricaN. AmericaEurope

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Sulfate-Free Cleansing Products

Source: Mintel GNPD

Rate

of N

umbe

r of N

ew L

aunc

h

Clai

m w

ith S

ulfa

te-fr

ee (%

)

Since 2007

• It has grown significantly and has spread to numerous regions in the last 3 years.


Sulfate-Free Cleansing Products

BSP-0060E-6

“Amino acid” shampoo

“Surfactant”-free

Sulfate-free / non-sulfate

• Similar concepts are pervading worldwide – Sulfate-free / non-sulfate in North America – “Surfactant-free” in Southeast Asia – “Amino acid” shampoo in Japan


Alkyl Ether Sulfates

LES (AES, “sulfate”) • The first choice for shower products / shampoos.

– Good foamer in a wide pH range – Suitable for liquid products in terms of solubility and thickening

property • Developed as a soft “mild” surfactant against AS (SDS) • Always contains certain amount of SDS as an impurity

When SDS is absorbed into the skin, it is known to cause protein denaturation, inhibition enzymes.

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SDS


What You Want?

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By shifting to Sulfate-free formulations

What You Expect

Labels with Sulfate-free Claims

Milder, more Gentle Products

Natural / Sustainable Message

What You DON’T Want to Give up Easy Formulations:

Viscosity & Transparent

Cost increase

Foamability

Struggling to make sulfate-free products.


R N H

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AMISOFT®

AMINO ACID BASED SURFACTANT

• AMISOFT® ECS-22W – INCI: Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate

Natural Mild with excellent conditioning effect

Performance

AJINOMOTO’s Sulfate-Free Surfactant Solutions

NEW

Eco-friendly & Sustainable

the desired properties as primary surfactant for sulfate-free products


AMISOFT® is Derived from Natural Origins

• AMISOFT®

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H2N COO-

COO-

Glutamic acid

HN COO-

O

COO-

Vegetable-origin fatty acid

Na+

Na+


AMISOFT® is Derived from Natural Origins

BSP-0060E-- 11

H2N COO-

COO-

Glutamic acid

Vegetable-origin fatty acid

• AMISOFT®

• AMISOFT® ECS-22W is being produced in Indonesia, considering starting materials availability.


Natural Foaming Surfactant AMISOFT®ECS-22W

Natural

Extremely mild

• Rapid Biodegradation Eco-Friendly

• Good performance at the skin-neutral pH (pH 5 ~ 6) High skin compatibility

• A comfortable and soft feeling to the skin during and after use with minimum skin dryness

Conditioning / moisturizing feel

• Suitable for clear products • Excellent lathering properties and creamy & dense luxurious

foam

High performance

Ideal as a primary surfactant of sulfate-free products

NEW

12


Properties of AMISOFT® ECS-22W


100 1000 10000

ECS-22SB

Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate

Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate

Decyl Glucoside

CAPB

SLES

SMES

TC50 (µg/mL)

Mildness of AMISOFT® Cytotoxicity

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Sodium Lauroyl Methylaminopropionate

Cytotoxicity test of neutral red method. Tested as a 12wt% of solution. pH value was determined based on maximum foam volumes. TC50 : concentration causing a 50% growth reduction.

TS Data Sheet No. 0101-3940E

• AMISOFT® is an extremely mild surfactant.

AMISOFT®

Mild


Biodegradability of AMISOFT ®

0

20

40

60

80

100

0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7Days

Biod

egra

dabi

lity

(BO

D d

egra

datio

nra

te、

%）

　　　　　　　LS-11

　　　　　　　GCK-12

Sodium Methyl LauroylTaurateSodium Lauryl Phoshate

Sodium Laureth Sulfate

Sodium Laurate

aniline<Method>

OECD guideline (Modified MITI guideline) <Result>

Biodegradability of AMISOFT and AMILITE is better than that of other surfactants. (60% BOD degradation rate in six days) Reference : Kawasaki and Takino Fragrance Journal ,19(10), 45(1991)


Biodegradation Profile

• AMISOFT® is highly biodegradable.

AMISOFT®

AMILITE®

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Impact of AMISOFT® on Skin Moisture • AMISOFT ® does not cause skin dryness after heavy wash

<Test Surfactants> A : AMISOFT (10 wt% active) B : Sodium Laureth Sulfate (10 wt% active) TS Data Sheet No. 0101-2051E

0

10

20

30

0 2 4 6 8 10

Conductance(μS)

Wash Cycle

CS-22

SLES

AMISOFTAMISOFT®

BSP-0060E-- 16 :consecutive decrease in skin moisture.


• AMISOFT® does not remove skin natural moisturizers so much from skin.

Retain more NMF by AMISOFT®

0.0

0.2

0.4

0.6

0.8

1.0

1.2 amount of NMF before washing

N=4, mean±S.D.

Amino acids PCA

Rel

ativ

e am

ount

of N

MF

in th

e sk

in a

fter w

ashi

ng

SLES Soap AMISOFT® SLES Soap AMISOFT®

BSP-0060E-- 17 NMF:Natural Moisturizing Factor TS Data Sheet No. 0101-3630E


• Excellent foaming and foam stability

Foam Volume and Stability of AMISOFT® ECS-22W

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Foam

Vol

ume

(mL)

0

50

100

150

200

250

300

350

ECS-22W

SLES Sar CMT SSC CAPB CB LAA DPG

0 min. 5 min.ハンドミキサー法、35℃、水道水、1.2wt% active、pH 5.8 1.2% active, 35oC, tap water (water hardness: 60ppm as CaCO3),pH5.8

AMISOFT® ECS-22W

SLES：Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Sar：Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate, CMT：Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate, SSC：Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate, CAPB：Cocamidopropyl Betaine, CB：Coco-betaine, LAA：Sodium Lauroamphoacetate, DPG：Decyl Glucoside


Applications of AMISOFT® ECS-22W

Benefits in Sulfate-Free Shower Products

Natural Shower Products

Mild Easy Formulations

Good Foamability


• A sulfate-free product with AMISOFT® is very mild.

Cytotoxicity: Sulfate-free Prototype Formulation

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wt%Anionics (active) 6.0Cocamidopropyl betaine (30%) 15.0Sodium lauroamphoacetate (32%) 4.7Citric acid pH 5.8Water balance

100.0


100 1000 10000

AMISOFT® ECS-22SB

Sar

Ise

CMT

SLES

TC50 (mg/mL)

AMISOFT®

Mild

Comparison (as primary surfactant) AMISOFT® Sar：Sodium lauroyl sarcosine Ise：Sodium cocoyl isethionate CMT：Sodium cocoyl methyl taurate SLES：Sodium laureth sulfate

Mild


KNS-054-21W (wt%)AMISOFT® ECS-22W (30%) 20.0COCAMIDOPROPYL BETAINE (30%) 15.0SODIUM LAUROAMPHOACETATE (32%) 4.7GLYCERYL CAPRATE 2.0SODIUM CHLORIDE 0.3PEG-150 DISTEARATE 0.4CITRIC ACID to pH5.8PRESERVATIVES 0.3WATER BalanceFRAGRANCE 0.05

100.0

Guide Formulation 1: Sulfate-free Shower Gel

Clear appearance

Suitable viscosity 7,700 mPa・s

• By using AMISOFT® ECS-22W, good viscosity and clarity can be achieved easily.

Mild Easy Formulations

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• AMISOFT® product outstrips the sulfate product in terms of foam value and stability.

Foamability of Sulfate-free Formulation

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40

50

60

70

80

90

250

260

270

280

290

300

310

ECS-22WSar Ise CMT SLES

Foam

Sta

bilit

y (%

)

Foam

Vol

ume

(mL)

AMISOFT® ECS-22W

sulfate-free formulation

5% as is, 35oC, tap water (water hardness: 60ppm as CaCO3)

Foamability Mild Easy Formulations


• Excellent lathering properties and creamy & dense luxurious foam • Exhibits excellent performance as a primary surfactant of sulfate

free products

Foam Appearance of Sulfate-free Formulation

SLES AMISOFT® ECS-22W

Foamability Mild Easy Formulations

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Guide Formulation 2: Natural Cleansing Formulation

• ALL Natural (ECOCERT certified) CSAN-5W (wt%)AMISOFT® ECS-22W (30%) 10.0DECYL GLOUCISIDE (30%) 10.0GLYCERYL CAPRATE 0.2DISODIUM COCOPOLYGLUCOSE CITRATE 5.0XANTHAN GUM 1.0CITRIC ACID to pH5.8CAE 0.2WATER Balance

100.0

Clear appearance Suitable viscosity 5,000 mpa・s

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Summary

AMISOFT® ECS-22W… – Natural – Eco-friendly & Sustainable – Economical – Mild with excellent conditioning effect

• Excellent foaming properties and luxurious creamy & dense foam

• Ideal as a primary surfactant can be utilized as main surfactants, or even as an additive.

• Exhibits excellent performance as a primary surfactant of sulfate free products

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http://sore.hontonano.jp/eco-green-sustainable/814-eco-elements.html


Thank you for listening ！

R N H

• AMISOFT® ECS-22W – INCI: Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate

AMINO ACID BASED SURFACTANT

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Documents

AMISOFT ECS-22W - · PDF fileFoam Volume (mL) 0. 50. 100. 150. 200. 250. 300. 350. ECS-22W. SLES. Sar. CMT. SSC. ... AMISOFT ® ECS-22W. ... product outstrips the sulfate product in