AMERICAN REINVENTION Hickey Freeman Expands for Falldesigner David Hart as creative director. In 2013, Grano Retail Holdings bought all the tangible assets of the Hickey Freeman brand

ONES TO WATCHWho to keep an eye on in

Milan and New York. Pages MW4 and MW10

Matt BomerThe actor looked the part of a winner, showing savvy style at the Golden Globes. Page MW12

MAN OF THE WEEK

January 15, 2015

Multifaceted Milan

Designers such as Brioni’s Brendan Mullane are blending sartorial elegance with a touch of the street for their fall

collections. For more on the inspirations for designers showing in Milan beginning Saturday, see pages MW6 and MW7.

ONES TO WATCHWho to keep an eye on in

Milan and New York. Pages

by JEAN E. PALMIERI

HICKEY FREEMAN is planning a double-whammy for fall.

The venerable men’s wear label will in-troduce two additional product categories — sportswear and a younger-skewed col-lection — designed to complement its core tailored clothing offering.

The younger line will be called h by Hickey Freeman and is being designed and marketed by Hickey Freeman Tailored Clothing under the direction of Arnold Brant Silverstone, president and chief cre-ative offi cer.

At the same time, Authentic Brands Group and W Diamond Group are relaunch-ing Hickey Freeman Sportswear and tapped designer David Hart as creative director.

In 2013, Grano Retail Holdings bought all the tangible assets of the Hickey Freeman brand — including its factory in Rochester, N.Y. — from W Diamond, and signed a 40-year license with Authentic Brands, which purchased the Hickey Freeman trademark as part of its 2012 acquisition of HMX Group, to produce the brand. W Diamond is Authentic’s licensed partner for Hickey Freeman Sportswear.

While the ownership may seem confus-ing to the outside world, Jarrod Weber, vice president of men’s fashion for Authentic Brands, said: “The experience to the con-sumer is seamless. We have a team of part-ners that work together under the direction of ABG (the owners of the brand) who col-lectively create the vision and execute to the very high standards we set.”

The vast bulk of Hickey’s business continues to be tailored clothing, and Silverstone said bookings for the spring season — its fi rst foray back into the market since the ownership change — were up 29 percent. In addition to a design overhaul, Grano also invested millions into revamp-ing the branding and marketing of the long-standing label. Hickey does more than $100 million in sales at retail.

Silverstone said the idea for h by Hickey Freeman came from retailers asking for a quality product at more affordable price points to appeal to a younger customer. In the past, Hickey Freeman had offered Hickey to appeal to the younger customer, but that product has been discontinued.

“It wasn’t my intention to launch an-other label within six months of Hickey Freeman,” Silverstone said. “But we saw a hole out there, and if we didn’t fi ll it, some-one else would have.”

Silverstone characterized h as “young and cool but understandable. Everything out there now is either an extreme fi t, the qual-ity is terrible or it’s incredibly expensive.”

AMERICAN REINVENTION

{Continued on page MW8}

Hickey FreemanExpands for FallLabel o� ering younger clothing line and new sportswear collection

Men’s WeekWWD THURSDAY, JANUARY 15, 2015MW2

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by ALESSANDRA TURRA

AFTER A long career in women’s wear, Rodolfo Paglialunga is taking the plunge into men’s in a big way.

Paglialunga, who was appoint-ed creative director of Jil Sander in April, cut his teeth at Romeo Gigli in the early Nineties, before joining Prada, where he spent 10 years in various roles, ultimate-ly rising to the post of women’s wear design director. In 2009, Paglialunga left the fashion label to join Vionnet as creative direc-tor. On Jan. 17, he’ll unveil his fi rst men’s collection for Jil Sander at

the company’s Milan showroom.“Jil Sander’s heritage is so strong

that sometimes it’s better not to pay too much attention to it to avoid the risk of being intimidated,” said the designer, expressing his admiration for the work of the brand’s founder, who in 2013 left the company after her third comeback. “I try to create the collections from my own point of view, following my instinct and focusing on what I like.”

For his fi rst attempt in the men’s wear business, Paglialunga said he focused on real clothes for real men.

“I tried to build the collection to make it easily approachable

by customers,” he said. “I didn’t want to create the image of an ab-stract, idealized man. I wanted to

inject a sense of real life.”Paglialunga said he worked

with luxury fabrics, which are part of Jil Sander’s tradition, such as cashmere and double wool. These were mixed with more contempo-rary and innovative materials to create clothes that are more func-tional and practical.

“I didn’t stick to a specific, statement silhouette,” Paglialunga said, adding that more fi tted pieces will be matched with more relaxed styles in the outfi ts.

The sophisticated color palette based on classic men’s tones, such as black, blue, brown and bur-gundy, are combined with brighter hues, especially in the most in-formal part of the collection. For this, Paglialunga was inspired by workwear, especially for a range of

pieces in a vintage French cotton which was formerly used for labor-ers’ uniforms.

The mostly monochromatic out-fi ts will be juxtaposed with coats, pants and blazers in micro-geo-metric prints that combine differ-ent patterns.

Knitwear will also play a piv-otal role in the collection and will include slightly felted cashmere pieces that are still “soft, rich and cozy,” said Paglialunga, who also worked a vintage triacetate yarn for sharp-cut sweaters in bright tones.

In addition, the designer cre-ated a footwear range, consisting of shoes which, while inspired by chunky work styles, have a luxury, polished look. These include loaf-ers, derbies and booties with light-weight rubber soles.

Jil’s New Man

Brioni Marks 70 Years With Runway Return by LUISA ZARGANI

MILAN — “I feel like a kid in a candy shop and I want to take people into our dream.”

Two and a half years into his position as creative director at Brioni, Brendan Mullane hasn’t lost his fascination with the storied Italian house, which turns 70 this year. On the contrary, the British designer is gearing up for the brand’s evening event on Monday with visible delight. For the fi rst time in years, Brioni will return to the runway with a show to be held at Milan’s Castello Sforzesco, the imposing 15th century castle restored by the Sforza family.

Deeply respectful of the brand’s his-tory, Mullane is possibly less intimated by the pressure of the industry today than he is by the original found-ers of the company: master tailor Nazareno Fonticoli and entrepre-neur Gaetano Savini, whom he views as in-novative and ground-breaking, expressing his nervousness to live up to them. “Brioni was the fi rst company to hold a men’s runway show back in 1952 in Florence, at the famed Sala Bianca at the city’s Palazzo Pitti,” said Mullane, who is based in Rome, during a recent interview here. “There were no male models at the time, they put their sales assistants in suits. They held a show on an airplane, they sat their guests with feet in water, fi lling the Waldorf-Astoria with water,” said Mullane, his eyes widening, still marveling at how the family “thought out of the box.” The designer was referring to a legendary fashion show at the iconic New York hotel, where the fountains were transformed into the runway.

“They held a show in Japan in 1963 and they didn’t speak any Japanese,” he added. “They were go-getters.

“So, what do we do next? We also want to always step up to the challenge, offer something unexpected, do things different-ly, leave a mark with one-of-a-kind experi-ences,” explained Mullane of his decision to return to the runway. “It’s our grand re-tour to mark our birthday.” While he was mum on details about the show, he re-vealed the theme centers around “the nine years it takes to become a [Brioni] tailor.”

Theatrics aside, Mullane underscored how Brioni fi rst challenged traditional tailoring standards, introducing brighter colors and in-novative fabrics and silhouettes. “Silk worn in the evening was an abomination at the time,” he noted, as were bright colors and graph-

ics. His effort is to return innovative designs to the brand, leveraging the artisans’ craft at Penne, in central Italy, where the company is based. “They love and thrive on challenges. We offer a sartorial product, but that is no reason to be boring,” he said. The designer has been engaged in making Brioni contem-porary — “not necessarily modern, but right for today.” Once again, he noted the founders’ forward-thinking ways. “They created a new silhouette, the column look, a streamlined jacket with tapered trousers in the Fifties.”

Mullane said he changed his way of work-ing around the artisans in the atelier and touted how Brioni has been able to indus-trialize an artisanal process. An additional value of the brand, he said, is that Brioni “was never damaged; it’s the epitome of ev-

erything that is beautiful in Italy.”

Assessing his own work, he said he believed he had succeeded in “taking off a few layers of dust,” and that he has “managed to seduce the high-end tastemakers.”

Mullane admitted that “20 percent” of his brain was business-oriented so he is working closely with Brioni’s new chief executive officer, for-mer Bottega Veneta ex-ecutive Gianluca Flore, who joined Brioni in November, succeeding Francesco Pesci. “He has a clear understanding of creativity and is very di-rect, like me, not gray,”

said Mullane of Flore. “He understands the beauty and potential of the brand.” This po-tential is made more visible to customers through the recent evolution of the brand’s retail network. After the opening in June of a sprawling new fl agship in Milan, a new unit in Rome was unveiled in the Via del Babuino, near the Spanish Steps, replacing the brand’s historical venue in Via Barberini. A store also opened in Beijing in December.

Once a go-to brand during the Dolce Vita era, counting customers including Hollywood stars such as Clark Gable and the Kennedys, Mullane is intent on “polishing the [Brioni] diamond” and establishing “what” the Brioni man is. “This is not about wealth, but under-standing the level of refi nement. You don’t see them, but you know there are between 3,000 and 5,000 stitches in a suit, or be-tween 7,000 and 15,000 stitches in a tuxedo,” Mullane said. And even though customers today are “more competitive, more diffi cult, no pushovers,” Mullane strives to provide a “seductive emotional turn, that is the real power — clothes that are able to seduce and that you cannot live without.”

by SAMANTHA CONTI and NINA JONES

LONDON — Stores shopping London Collections: Men said that while no major trends emerged during the four-day showcase, there was an abundance of sharp, salable clothing on offer and the lineup was a strong one.

Coach, Burberry, Tom Ford and J.W. Anderson were among the top labels on retailers’ lips. “We fell in love at Burberry, where the bohemian man had the look of a Cambridge student from the 1950s,” said Jason Broderick, fashion director of men’s wear, sports and watches at Harrods.

“Tom Ford modernized further and there was so much denim in the collection, and we also loved Coach. It was sporty, modern and we’d love to have it in-store,” said Broderick, adding that Alexander McQueen’s cropped, sporty jack-ets were a refreshing sight.

“The collection overall was slightly more youthful and col-orful, and we liked the emblems and the sparkle,” said Broderick, adding that Hardy Amies and Gieves & Hawkes were among the tailored clothing highlights.

Nelson Mui, men’s fashion di-rector at Hudson’s Bay Co. said the trends that appeared in London have been “bubbling around” for a few months, such as textured fabrics, military touches, the Seventies feel that started with women’s wear last year and the bo-hemian vibe in the air. “You see a lot of interplay between men’s and women’s trends developing.”

Mui also pointed to the up-coming Thea Porter exhibition at the Fashion and Textile Museum, the fi rst-ever show of work by the grand-mother of boho chic.

He called the Coach collection “an amazing debut with a very coherent, strong idea” and said the J.W. Anderson collection was “a knockout. It was very, very distinc-tive, androgynous with Seventies ideas but defi ed categorization. I’m interested to see what it’s like in the showroom,” he said.

He also pointed to Burberry’s strong accessories and to the broad range of brands on the runway, from the more commercial Tiger of Sweden, Coach and Moschino to tailored Savile Row brands such as Richard James and Hardy Amies. “We’re looking to increase the presence of British brands at the stores,” he said.

Stephen Ayres, head of fashion buying and merchandising at Liberty, said there wasn’t an overriding trend running through the showcase, but “military elements were present and volume remains important; trousers remained looser and wider, coats

were oversized and proportion was gener-ally more generous. Fringing was popular as a detail, be it on accessories, or hem-lines of shirts and tailoring and denim fea-tured heavily in many collections.”

He cited Oliver Spencer and YMC, Craig Green and Nasir Mazhar among the top labels showing, along with Christopher Kane — who is doing appointments in Paris — and Christopher Raeburn. “Our overall budgets for London will be planned up versus last year,” he said.

What most struck him about the week was “the sheer volume of product on show…from emerging young designers to the luxury [labels] and the more classic brands of Savile Row.”

Terry Betts, buying director of men’s wear at Selfridges, pointed to loose tailor-ing as one of the evolving trends on the London runway over the past few seasons.

“Agi & Sam and Craig Green opted for looser fi ts on both outerwear and tailored pieces. Wide-leg trousers that just skim the ankle have been a recurring look throughout the week,” he said, adding that the store was adding Craig Green to its mix of designers.

“We also saw a shift in streetwear, with Nasir Mazhar and Christopher Shannon both developing their aesthetic and giving their collections a new edge of refi nement — tailored jackets, shirts and fi tted trousers all made an appearance.”

He said the shearling jacket would no doubt be the “piece for the season,” with J.W. Anderson, Coach, James Long and Burberry all presenting options. “LC:M con-tinues to champion London as an important and increasingly relevant men’s wear desti-nation. For me, this was the best one yet.”

Merchants ApplaudLondon’s Retro Turn

Runway looks from AlexanderMcQueen and Coach.

Brendan Mullane

Rodolfo Paglialunga

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Two brands to check out in Milan.

FOR MORE IMAGES, SEE

WWD.com/menswear-news.

by LUISA ZARGANI

MILAN — “We don’t want to be revolution-ary at all costs.”

That’s the opinion of Pal Zileri design-er Mauro Ravizza Krieger, who is being charged with revamping the label under new owner Mayhoola for Investments. Ravizza Krieger knows that when attempting to re-juvenate a storied brand, updates are nec-essary, but these updates can’t override the brand’s “essence.”

Ravizza Krieger’s design efforts match those of Paolo Roviera, chief executive offi -cer of the Italian men’s wear brand since last June. “There are very few companies that know how to do this kind of product at this level,” said Roviera, a former Ermenegildo Zegna Group executive who was tapped to provide a management structure to a fi rm that was essentially modeled as a family company.

“I have worked on mapping out the mar-ket, needs and opportunities, starting with the product,” said Roviera, whose goal is to double Pal Zileri’s market share in fi ve years. Developing the U.S. market is also a top priority for the fi rm. Global revenues in 2014 totaled 100 million euros, or $118.3 mil-lion at current exchange.

The new course of the company will be un-veiled with a performance and video art event called “Avant Craft” on Sunday in Milan.

Mayhoola for Investments, an investment vehicle backed by a private investor group from Qatar that also controls Valentino, last February acquired a majority stake in Forall Confezioni SpA, which produces Pal Zileri and also holds licenses for Moschino and Cerruti 1881, which are currently being phased out. The focus now is on Pal Zileri, which was founded in 1970 in Quinto Vicentino, Italy. It was previously owned by a group of Italian entrepreneurs, including the Barizza, Bellet, Miola and Ghiringhelli fami-lies, along with the Egyptian Arafa Holding.

The latter still holds a minority interest.“Our investors have no rush to cash out,

and we want to become key players in men’s wear [by offering better] visibility with con-sumers, trading up our distribution and fur-ther raising our quality,” said Roviera, who interned at Pal Zileri 15 years ago.

In the Eighties, Forall collaborated with Luciano Soprani, Verri, Antonio Fusco, Krizia, Trussardi and Moschino to produce and distribute its men’s lines. The company went on to expand in the Nineties and devel-oped Pal Zileri into a classic, highly crafted brand that uses top fabrics ranging from cash-

mere and guanaco to vicuna and is available in more than 70 countries. The brand had ex-panded to include a bespoke collection; Lab, a younger-skewed label; a more informal line called Concept; accessories, and fragrances. Since coming on board, Roviera has stream-lined the six collections into two — the signa-ture line and the younger Lab.

“This is an extraordinary company — just a bit dusty,” said Ravizza Krieger, who has worked with Caruso, Loro Piana, Herno and Luciano Barbera. “Now we need to cre-ate products [to fi t the needs of the market.] We need a fresh mentality without forfeiting our tradition.” To wit, Ravizza Krieger is en-hancing the sartorial heritage typical of the brand’s area — Italy’s northern Veneto region — by offering clean lines, a modern fi t, a sim-ple and linear aesthetic and updated fabrics and colors. Ravizza Krieger said the name of

the tailor in charge of a suit would be sewn in to convey a personal and artisanal touch.

Retail prices start at $1,500. The collec-tions are made in Italy.

Today, the company’s business is more tilted toward the Middle East, Russia, eastern Europe and the U.K., but Roviera is looking to expand in the U.S. The latter accounts for only around 7 percent of sales and “it should represent 20 to 25 percent,” he noted.

Roviera is also redeveloping Pal Zileri’s distribution network, which today counts 30 directly operated and 75 franchised stores, and more than 500 multibrand units. “We are changing the quality of the locations and our store concept, and not necessarily eye-ing more doors,” Roviera said. The company is remodeling and expanding its London boutique on New Bond Street, which will be completed in the third quarter of 2015.

Pal Zileri to Update With Eye to Past

ONES TO WATCHEDMUND OOIEdmund Ooi is about to make his debut at Milan Men’s Fashion Week with a runway show at Giorgio Armani’s theater on Saturday . Ooi is the latest young designer to be offered a venue by Armani.

Born and raised in Penang, Malaysia, Ooi discovered his passion for fashion thanks to his mother, who used to run a tailoring atelier. There, Ooi cut his teeth, before moving to Antwerp where he got a fashion design degree at the prestigious Royal Academy of Fine Art. After graduation, Ooi joined Mugler’s men’s wear design team and in August 2013, launched his namesake brand.

“At the beginning I made everything by myself at home,” Ooi said. “Slowly, my line started to grab attention and now it’s about to embark on its new journey.”

Strongly motivated to “break boundaries in men’s wear by adding fun and experimental elements,” Ooi developed a fashion vision where fun details are worked with a tailoring approach, allowing him to develop creative yet wearable collections.

He describes the fall/winter 2015 collection as “very personal.” Ooi started with some elements of costumes from the late 18th century and the early 19th century, which he digitalized with a contemporary approach. But he didn’t fi nd the fi rst

samples convincing. “My clothes looked very controlled, clean and sharp, so I started shredding everything,” he said. “The fi nal results are quite interesting because I couldn’t keep my control freak personality out of the way, so everything ended up in a ‘controlled shred.’”

The lineup’s standouts include a wool coat that was hand-shredded seam by seam; high-end jacquard knits; eye-catching pieces decorated with rubber sequins, as well as knitted collar scarves. Wholesale prices range from 90 euros, or $106.50, for small accessories, to 800 euros, or $947, for the most

elaborate outerwear pieces.Edmund Ooi collections are sold in

multibrand stores across Europe and Asia, but the designer’s goal is to expand to the United States. — ALESSANDRA TURRA

OMOGENEAlexis Giannotti launched his men’s wear label Omogene in 2013 with the goal of making an artistic statement that is rooted in the past but projects into the future.

As the brand’s name implies, Nineties culture — skateboarding, punk music and street art — creates a homogenous mix in Giannotti’s aesthetic. It is fi ltered through a romantic lens and aims to break down the barriers between formal and casualwear in collections that blend retro sportswear and futuristic tailoring.

Based in Monte Carlo, Giannotti received his bachelor degree in literature and arts before moving to Florence to study architecture. After 2 1/2 years, Giannotti changed course, dropping architecture for a master’s degree in marketing and communication at the Polimoda fashion institute.

“I love to say that I have been designing for 28 years, because all the things I’ve learned and seen since my birth have infl uenced the way I think and perceive the world around me,” Giannotti said. “Like a sponge does with liquids, I do absorb a

lot of inspirations from different sources.”

For fall, the designer was inspired by Franz Kafka’s “The Metamorphosis” novella and in particular the writer’s ideas of

change and mutation.Referring to the shape

of the buglike creature described by Kafka in the book, Giannotti focused on curved silhouettes particularly

evident in the cocooning outerwear pieces, such as a collarless wool coat, a Nineties-inspired soft leather bomber jacket with orange lining and a vinyl parka lined with technical mesh. These are all embellished with rounded pockets and details that are also found on the pants, which include rubberized

denim styles and leather trousers with

an elastic waistband. The offering is completed by long-sleeved T-shirts and sweatshirts. These include a turtleneck model with a combination of fabrics on the front, as well as cotton styles showing colorful frogs printed to create a camoufl age pattern.

Wool outerwear retails for 535 euros, or $633, while leather pieces will sell for

700 euros, or $828.50.— A.T.

A look from Pal Zileri.

Edmund Ooi will unveil his line during Milan Men’s Fashion Week.

Omogene aims to blur the lines between formal and casualwear.

Mauro Ravizza Krieger

Paolo Roviera


THE STREETS OF MILANFrom streetwear references to sartorial elegance, designers showing at Milan Men’s

Fashion Week will offer an eclectic take on the season. — ALESSANDRA TURRA

“Gray.” — Italo Zucchelli, men’s

wear creative director, Calvin Klein Collection

“Homage to the original Moncler down jacket.”— Thom Browne, creative

director, Moncler Gamme Bleu

“Irreverence.”— Andreas Melbostad, creative director,

Diesel Black Gold

“Essential cuts and graphic details characterize the wardrobe

of my fashion week ’15-’16 man, a sophisticated aviator who

transcends historical references through a minimalist, contemporary interpretation of his own identity.”

— Andrea Pompilio

“Luxury sportswear with Nordic infl uences.”— Alessandro Dell’Acqua, founder and creative director, N°21

“Lines chasing geometric graphics.”

— Silvia Venturini Fendi, men’s creative

director, Fendi

“Exploring the themes of exaggerated motion and clear, easily interpreted

detail to produce drama, tension, exuberance and grandeur, this season

[my] vision is an eclectic hybrid of decorative art and romantic expressions

of confi dence and masculinity.”— Roberto Cavalli

“The superhero is the

protagonist of Tom Rebl’s

new collection, representing

the perfect union between

myth and modern reality,

bravery and nobility.”

— Tom Rebl

“A cold day circa 1503, a rhinoceros has reached the European courts. (From Albrecht Dürer to Federico Fellini.)”

— Kean Etro, men’s wear creative director, Etro

“Au Jour le Jour will put its men’s game show on, which is inspired by a famous board game. Featuring exclusive materials, cult graphic works and unusual rockabilly accents, the collection puts the accent, as always, on the research on materials and colors defi ning our style concept.”— Mirko Fontana and Diego Marquez, creative directors, Au Jour le Jour

“This collection is a mélange of inspired imagery, a collection in motion, as we follow this season’s muse, the artist, on his journey through trans-Siberian-Manchurian territories.” — Angela Missoni, Missoni

“Where technology meets tailoring.” — Z Zegna creative team

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THE STREETS OF MILANFrom streetwear references to sartorial elegance, designers showing at Milan Men’s

Fashion Week will offer an eclectic take on the season. — ALESSANDRA TURRA

“Gray.” — Italo Zucchelli, men’s

wear creative director, Calvin Klein Collection

“Homage to the original Moncler down jacket.”— Thom Browne, creative

director, Moncler Gamme Bleu


Diesel Black Gold

“Essential cuts and graphic details characterize the wardrobe

of my fashion week ’15-’16 man, a sophisticated aviator who

transcends historical references through a minimalist, contemporary interpretation of his own identity.”

— Andrea Pompilio

“Luxury sportswear with Nordic infl uences.”— Alessandro Dell’Acqua, founder and creative director, N°21

“Lines chasing geometric graphics.”

— Silvia Venturini Fendi, men’s creative

director, Fendi




of confi dence and masculinity.”— Roberto Cavalli

“The superhero is the

protagonist of Tom Rebl’s

new collection, representing

the perfect union between

myth and modern reality,

bravery and nobility.”

— Tom Rebl



“Au Jour le Jour will put its men’s game show on, which is inspired by a famous board game. Featuring exclusive materials, cult graphic works and unusual rockabilly accents, the collection puts the accent, as always, on the research on materials and colors defi ning our style concept.”— Mirko Fontana and Diego Marquez, creative directors, Au Jour le Jour

“This collection is a mélange of inspired imagery, a collection in motion, as we follow this season’s muse, the artist, on his journey through trans-Siberian-Manchurian territories.” — Angela Missoni, Missoni

“Where technology meets tailoring.” — Z Zegna creative team

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“The new Trussardi collection defines a

sense of elegance, which is fragile and strong, melancholy

and delicate, nostalgic and contemporary at the same time. Gaia Trussardi looks at a

portrait of Kurt Cobain — a starting point for the collection — and she is not interested in the

public figure of the self-destructive

rock star, she looks at the fragility of the

man, expressed in idiosyncratic and deeply lyric

styles.”Gaia Trussardi,

creative director,

Trussardi

Men’s Week WWD THURSDAY, JANUARY 15, 2015 MW7


Diesel Black Gold

“Upstate/Downstate New York.” — Michael Bastian




of confidence and masculinity.”— Roberto Cavalli



“From Sardinia to New York

in a taxi ride. A journey

from the rural wilderness of

a Sardinian village to the

sharp reality of the Manhattan urban jungle.”

— Antonio Marras

“I combined new textures and different

materials for a new sartorial daywear, made

contemporary by street details.”

— Ermanno Scervino

“Urban warrior.”— Philipp Plein

“ ‘Art after midnight.’

Street art, the expression

of an artistic concept that

emerges through graffiti.

Bad boys or artists?

Contemporary artists locked

in a limbo between fame

and infamy.— Federico

Curradi, creative director, Iceberg

“The atmosphere is that of Milan during the Sixties, when countless

structural and technological changes occurred. An atmosphere

characterized by economic recovery and that all-Italian

magic consisting of pragmatism, elegance and bravery.”

— Jay Vosoghi, creative director, Boglioli

“Space Rocket and Space Robot. Dynamite explosions. Rockabilly ’50 versus rapper ’80. Jukebox versus guitars. Memphis versus Art Deco.” — Massimo Giorgetti, founder and creative director, MSGM

“Here is the English

gentleman passing through India

looking for Koh-i-Noor, traveling

through the Mughul dynasty

all the way to Queen Victoria’s

rule, using the fair play he learned

on the cricket field, meaning concentration

and elegant rigor. When he

walks on the Rajasthan roads,

he has a West End of London

allure and an open, self-aware

heart, lacking the conceit and

arrogance of colonialists.”— Stella Jean

“The vision of a charming collection, part of a total living concept devoted to ideal beauty. A journey through time, seeking to create a new vitality and diversity. A research on elegant fabrics to make life more fascinating through clothes. Nothing more.” — Massimo Piombo

“Refined elegance is the essential prerogative to define a collection that evokes faraway cultures, making them perfect for a crowded metropolis.” — Tom Notte and Bart Vandebosch, creative directors, Les Hommes



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H is targeted at the 25-to-45-year-old, with the “sweet spot” of 25 to 35. The majority of the offering is separates, but suits are also offered and they’re all made in America at the brand’s Rochester factory. A smattering of sportswear pieces and furnishings are also being pro-duced and made-to-measure will also be of-fered. Shirts will be made in Newark, N.J., and the ties — all 2 3/4 inches wide — in Brooklyn. Denim will be sourced from Cone in North Carolina and outerwear will either be pro-duced in Rochester or Manhattan.

Suits, which are half canvas, will retail for $895, and there are around 125 swatches available for the clothing. A Hickey Freeman suit is full canvas and would retail around $1,500. Even so, Silverstone said there’s more than four hours of handwork in each garment.

The logo is a modified Gothic “h” and the rest of the label reads: American tailoring, established 1899. One version has a needle running through it. The label is chocolate leather with metal ends.

“It’s a balance of rawness and finesse,” said Negi Darsses, vice president of mar-keting and communications. “We did focus groups and found there’s a lot of awareness of the Hickey Freeman name.” Young men liked the brand’s authenticity and heritage.

There will be three distinct stories for the launch season, all named after neigh-borhoods or locations in Brooklyn, which is

the inspiration for the collection. The first is Brooklyn Navy Yard, which will be the more basic offering. Silverstone said that while blue blazers and charcoal and navy suits will be part of the mix, there will be youthful twists such as camouflage linings.

The second, Red Hook, is targeted to a “waspy, New England guy,” he said, with a lot of grays, chocolates, tans and camels. The final offering is Greenpoint, which is “more aggressive” in its silhouette and styling. “It’s edgy,” he said, pointing to the printed double-face blazers, boiled wools and washed fabrics.

Key pieces include a plaid peacoat with a quilted lining and a navy flannel shawl-collar tuxedo with a light blue paisley lining.

H will be shown starting this week in the company’s 57th Street showroom, and Silverstone said the plan is to target around “50 new cool boutiques” as well as the la-bel’s existing retail base.

The David Hart-designed Hickey Freeman Sportswear will make its debut next week at Liberty Fairs in New York and will also be shown during New York Men’s Day, a compi-lation of presentations spearheaded by Erin Hawker, owner and founder of Agentry PR, during New York Fashion Week next month. Hawker has been brought on board to handle publicity for the Hickey sportswear.

Hart launched his own eponymous label with ties in 2009 and branched into sports-wear in 2013. His background includes Ralph

Lauren, Tommy Hilfiger and Anna Sui.For Hickey, Hart has created a collection

of luxurious casualwear pieces that encom-pass sweaters, knitwear, sport shirts, outer-wear, soft coats, casual trousers and denim. Fits are modern but not skinny. “The Hickey guy is more sartorial,” Hart said.

“Hickey Freeman Sportswear is age-rel-evant, luxurious American sportswear with a point of view,” said Doug Williams, chief executive officer of W Diamond. It’s tar-geted to the guy who may be a “king of in-dustry” on Wall Street during the week but needs something to wear on the weekends in Litchfield County. “We wanted to capture the spirit of that man and fill another part of his lifestyle.”

Williams said he was familiar with Hart’s work and “his point of view was exactly what we wanted to accomplish.”

He also tapped apparel industry veteran Marty Staff, now president of branded de-velopment for the Siskind Group, to work on the development of the sportswear col-lection. “Marty’s role is to shepherd the business with the best specialty stores in America and build an American point of view,” Williams said.

“We’re making a 110-year-old brand rel-evant again,” Staff said.

This is the first such collaboration for Hart, whose grandfather and father were fans of Hickey Freeman. He called the brand “an icon in men’s wear” and said he is hon-ored to “add to its rich history.”

For his first collection, Hart said he “looked at photos of the early days of avia-

tion.” During a preview at the Hickey Freeman store on Tuesday, Hart pointed to the “great military details” that he used in the line. For example, there’s a slub twill M65 field jacket that he showed over a rag yarn popover and featherwale corduroy pants. Fisherman’s sweaters and donegal puffer vests in flecked wool illustrate Hart’s love of “texture.” He’s also offering a light-weight waxed canvas macintosh coat in a mustard color and sweaters in hues ranging from bright orange to oxblood. There are calfskin leather bombers, cotton slub hen-leys, washed five-pocket stretch twill pants.

“We’re focusing on luxe fabrics, where we see white space,” Hart said, adding that he views the collection as the “American version of Cucinelli or Isaia.” Sizing will be small, medium and large.

The collection, which Hart said is a tight capsule, is manufactured in Europe. Williams said the relationship with Hart will be “ongoing” as W Diamond works to expand the brand’s reach. “We’re partnering with great people to develop amazing product and deliver to the consumer what they can’t find anywhere else.”

Prices are consistent with the other Hickey Freeman product. The leather bomb-er will sell for around $1,400; wovens will be $175 to $195; and a Cowichan sweater will sell for $1,000.

Williams said he hopes to open 50 retail accounts in the first season and double that by the end of the first year. “Ultimately, we’d like to have 250 locations in the U.S. and Canada,” he said.


{Continued from page MW1}

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Hickey Freeman Branching Out for FallLooks from the Hickey Freeman Sportswear collection.

Looks from h by Hickey Freeman.

David Hart



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GROVERMost new brands, if not all, strive to eventually become an entire lifestyle label. Grover, a small company based out of Los Angeles, refutes that notion.

“I don’t want it to be a lifestyle brand, no,” said Matthew Jung, founder of the basics line, which will be shown at Capsule. “If you pretend that a T-shirt is a lifestyle, then you’ve already lost your vision.”

Jung, who started the surfwear line Wellen while he was a junior studying business at Whittier College, decided he wanted to stick with a foundation when creating his new line. “I wanted to create something that was easy, wearable and a staple in your everyday,” he said. “We’re not a vintage Americana brand nor are we a contemporary Japanese brand, either.”

The brand, which focuses on T-shirts, henleys and underwear, is a passion of the Wellen team that works on Grover as well, Jung said. “We’re not profi table, but we believe in this.”

Price points start at $58 for a T-shirt, $90 for technical sweatshirts

and $120 for fl eece.“We’re making good stuff — not

in China, but in Los Angeles — and not selling it for an ultraexpensive price,” he said.

The name of the brand, as Jung explained it, comes from a friend’s friend. “He’s awesome and lives this rad life. The name’s also unique, and it’s hard to imagine or fi gure out who he is,” Jung said.

For the next season, the brand will introduce a weekender bag made out of old postal service bags with leather accents. There will also be acid-washed items,

prints and the introduction of a gold Grover bear

imprinted on items.The brand is sold at

Steven Alan, American Rag and multiple specialty boutiques across the country.

While the brand continues to grow,

Jung said he aims to expand slowly and cautiously.

“We’re not building a simple brand as an afterthought,” he said. “We’re building something as a

foundation.” — DAVID YI


GAMARELLO/YANKEE DOG DENIMNicholas Gamarello is an overachiever. He’s a designer, painter, illustrator and, now for fall, he’s launching not one but two new men’s labels at Liberty Fairs.

The fi rst will be called simply “Gamarello” and is being described as a “timeless, new, traditionally modern, lifestyle-driven luxury men’s wear collection.” It will include jackets, trousers, printed woven shirts, three-in-one neckwear, hats and handmade leather bags. The pieces are designed to stand on their own but at the same time fi t into a man’s existing wardrobe.

“My goal is to fi nd the balance between unique editorial pieces that are functional, wearable and that have a sense of utilitarian purpose,” Gamarello said. “The thought is to take fashion pieces that are familiar, yet evolved; pieces that look very simple, but on further inspection are quite complicated.” For example, he explained, what looks like a simple, single-breasted blazer is designed to have the comfort of a worn-in denim jacket. “When you put it on, you immediately know that this is anything but typical,” he said.

Prices for Gamarello include tailored jackets for $900 to $1,660 and shirts for $290. Pants start at $900 and ties are $120.

Then there’s Yankee Dog Denim, a collection that pays homage to American workwear.

“It’s a tribute to the working man, the blue-collar worker who made America,” he said. “It’s about the artistry, craftsmanship and handiwork that was required to build America. It’s what I consider a cornerstone of American fashion today.”

The denim is loomed by hand in North America and key silhouettes in the jeans include regular, skinny and vintage-relaxed, all a bit fuller than the slim styles that are prevalent today. They’re available in a basic wash called “rinse,” which looks like a rigid, natural indigo denim but without the stiffness, and the “vintage,” which Gamarello describes as “more of a mid-range wash.” In all models, “there will never be artifi cial bells and whistles, no whiskers or streak marks on knees or bottoms. Yankee Dog is just a believable pair of jeans, with a beautiful wash, a little heritage and character.” There is, however, a patented branded belt loop on the back of each pair.

The logo of the collection is an amalgam of two terriers, Lulu and

Winnie, who serve as “the gatekeepers and heart of our denim,” he said.

In addition to the jeans, Yankee Dog has also transformed his original

art onto screen-printed T-shirts and fl eece,

and there are also casual woven work and ranch shirts, footwear and hats. Sweaters and bags are planned for the future. Prices for Yankee Dog

range from $180 to $270. Both collections

are targeting better specialty and

department stores. — J.E.P.

ONES TO WATCH Brands to check out at the New York trade shows.

TAILORBYRDTailorByrd is branching out. The line was started 12 years ago strictly as a shirt brand, but over the years has expanded into a full sportswear collection. For fall, it will take the plunge into tailored clothing, and it has brought former Adolfo executive Stewart Golden onboard to spearhead the effort.

“We’re going to bring forward a new look for the middle market,” said chief executive offi cer Larry Stemerman. “We tested it in some stores for spring, but the real launch will be for fall.” The collection will be shown at the MRket show.

Suits will retail for $595 to $795, depending upon fabric, while sport coats will be offered at $299 to $499. The model is soft with a sloped shoulder and a fuller armhole for a comfortable fi t. The silhouette is not super slim, but modern and tailored. It’s not targeted to the young hipster, but to a more classic customer looking for an update. Dress shirts will also be offered in 100 percent cotton

and non-iron fabrications.“We think there’s a void for

luxury products at the entry level,” Stemerman added. Many of the offerings have retro features, such as buckles on the side of fl annel pants or vests with an opening for a pocket watch. Most of the fabrics are from Italy and the garments feature a lining with the brand’s signature bird printed on it. More than 100 fabrics will be offered, but key looks will include sport coats in brushed cotton or double-face fabrics and a high-performance travel blazer in blue or

black. A waffl e-knit blazer will be offered in a variety of colors, and there’s also a sweater-

blazer, which is a key piece, according to Golden.

Although there will be a selection of suits, “most of the business will be in sport coats,” Stemerman said.

The tailored clothing is licensed to Greystone International Group, a subsidiary of a large Chinese hedge fund. It will be manufactured by Dewhirst in London, a 134-year-old brand that has worked with Marks & Spencer and Thomas Pink, among others.

— JEAN E. PALMIERI

CAMBRIAGrowing up on a New Mexico ranch meant that Cambria Harkey spent most of her time sewing together leathers, creating halters for horses and perfecting a saddle stitch.

“It was mostly something to do since I had a lot of time on my hands,” she said.

Little did she know that years later, she’d repurpose those childhood skills into a full-fl edged business. Today, the Austin-based designer, who moonlights as a photo director for the music festival production agency C3 Events, has created a growing hand-sewn leather goods business.

“It started out as a hobby for me, creating custom leather bags for my friends. People would always say, ‘Oh, it’s Cambria’s bag,’” she said of the unoffi cial launch in 2011. The name stuck, and the business began to thrive as local Austin boutiques like By George asked to pick it up.

Today, the brand is sold in specialty stores across the U.S., including Bird in Brooklyn, and the line includes leather weekenders or messenger bags, wallets, and card and iPad cases. Prices range from $184 for a card case to $1,954 for a weekender.

All of the products are locally made by artisans

Harkey has trained to sew and stitch, with leathers like bison and sheepskin.

“What makes our designs so special and different is that it’s simple and clean, nothing too extravagant,” she said. “A lot of the leather I use doesn’t have too much fi nish . I keep it natural.”

For the new season,

Harkey, who will be showing at Project New York, will continue to create her best-selling products while attempting to grow the brand at a steady pace — she only produces 30 bags per style.

“I’d love to keep adding more people to the team, but for now, the brand is simple: it’s very pure luxury out of Austin,” she said. “I want to always keep the custom side of the business as well and make sure that quality is always the best.”

— D.Y.

TailorByrd is expanding into

tailored clothing.

Grover is aiming away

from being a “lifestyle”

brand.

Just 30 Cambria bags are produced

for each style.

Looks from Gamarello and

Yankee Dog Denim.

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Man ofTHE WEEK

The Golden Globe winner for best supporting actor in “The Normal Heart” also won the style show on the red carpet with his midnight blue, shawl lapel tuxedo.

The width of the hand-tied bow tie is proportional to the width of the lapel, but a bigger tie would actually work better to frame his face.

The tuxedo is a little bit tight around the chest. Maybe it’s all those push-ups he did for Magic Mike. We wouldn’t mind seeing him in the sequel.

The ultimate James Bond pocket

square. Miss Moneypenny would

be proud.

The one-inch cu� shows

sartorial excellence.

The narrow-cut straight leg works perfectly with

his proportions and elongates his 6-foot frame.

On someone else, a shiny Chelsea Boot with

a bit of a heel would be a no-no, but on him, it

shows a wild side.

The formfi tting blazer is defi nitely a modern cut, but for a man with his looks and body, he could pull o� a traditional, double-breasted peak-lapel and appear even more powerful.

There is absolutely nothing wrong with his face — he

has the perfect jawline, eyebrows, everything. Sigh.


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Champion Collaborating With Capsule Designers

THE YMA FASHION Scholarship Fund Geoffrey Beene National Scholarship Awards Dinner made history last week, raising more than $3.4 million at its annual event at New York’s Waldorf Astoria hotel.

More than 150 college students from across the country were flown in to receive their awards, each receiving $5,000, with four special winners re-ceiving $30,000 and fi ve others $10,000, thanks to the group’s association with the Geoffrey Beene Foundation. The top winners of the evening were hand-ed their trophies and awards by former Yankees hurler Mariano Rivera.

“Literally, we change the lives of the kids,” said Doug Evans, executive direc-tor of the YMA Fashion Scholarship Fund. “This is not needs-based, it’s talent-based. What usually happens is that we place them at internships all across the country, then they usually get job offers there.”

Ken Wyse, president of licensing and public relations at PVH Corp. and chair-man of the organization, agreed.

“I call this the normal person’s CFDA,” he said. “I was here when it was 400 people and $300,000 and now it’s over 1,300 people and $3 million for scholarships. We are fueling the future leaders of the industry here tonight so that they can see success and achieve it.”

To become successful, said Doug Ewert, chief executive offi cer of Men’s Wearhouse and recipient of the night’s Retailer of the Year Award, one needs to take chances. “It’s always about push-ing the envelope and learning from mis-takes and then learning from new mis-takes,” he said. “You can’t ever be afraid of taking risks.”

The night’s event also honored Ruben and Isabel Toledo, the latter was nominated for a Tony Award for her work on the Broadway musical, “After Midnight.” They were presented their award by Patti LaBelle, who had a hard time reading the teleprompter but rose to the occasion nonetheless. “I have no script, so I’m just going to say: ‘Hey, girl, hey, man,’ ” she said, embracing the de-signers in a bear hug.

“It’s not about us tonight, it’s about the students and the industry coming together for the next generation,” said Isabel Toledo. “Everyone’s gotta do work for themselves,” her husband added.

“You have to dream it up fi rst. But also, without people helping us we wouldn’t be here either. From Polly Mellen at Vogue to Bill Cunningham [of the New York Times], they all helped.”

The same sentiment came from Chip Bergh, the president and ceo at Levi Strauss & Co. who was being honored with the AMY Award. He was present-ed his award by a former YMA scholar who is now an assistant merchandiser

at Levi’s. “The best story of the night is Courtney introducing me,” Bergh said.

“There’s a point in your career where you want to do for others what they have done for you,” he added. “I spent 25 years at Procter & Gamble and my men-tors helped shape who I was.”

Bergh, who admitted he wasn’t as fa-miliar with retail when he took the job three years ago, said he reached out to Mickey Drexler of J. Crew to gain knowl-edge of the industry.

“When I joined the industry I kept hearing the name Mickey Drexler. So I cold-called him and was like, ‘I’ll fl y to New York City just to have breakfast with you.’ He taught me about the im-portance of the merchant, the role the merchant should be playing out of the organization. We even walked stores to-gether. How invaluable is that?

“The point is, you’re never too old to learn, and if you stay humble, you’ll get far,” he said.

— DAVID YI

by JEAN E. PALMIERI

CHAMPION HAS PARTNERED with the Capsule Show to create Champion Select, a new collection that will be sold exclusively at select Urban Outfi tters stores and online later this month.

Champion Select tasked three up-and-coming designers — New York’s Timo Weiland, London’s Craig Green and Copenhagen’s Wood Wood — to offer a mod-ern interpretation of the Champion brand. The special edition line, which is for men and women, will be unveiled during the Capsule show in New York next week.

Champion Select uses the brand’s heri-tage fabrications and branding to offer el-evated, fashion-forward, active-inspired looks. Each designer visited the Champion archives for inspiration and chose their fa-vorite fabrics to use in the capsule. They were also inspired by their own personal associations with the brand over the years.

“It has been a pleasure to collaborate with three of the hottest designers from around the world to create these limited-edition pieces that em-brace the Champion DNA while interpreted through the individual designer lens,” said Carla Mota, Champion brand design director.

She said the orga-nizers of the Capsule show brought the idea to Champion and they worked together to pick the designers. “We selected three in-dependent designers based on their unique aesthetic,” Mota said.

Craig Green, whom she called the current “It” boy of London, “is pretty avant-garde with a minimalistic aesthet-ic. His looks are almost more like sculpture,” she said.

Wood Wood’s back-ground is “hip-hop street culture,” she said, while Weiland’s offering is “more tai-lored, and references the music scene of the Sixties.” Weiland produced a men’s bomber with athletic detailing and a workwear feel that she especially liked.

Prices include a men’s jacket from Timo Weiland for $109, pants for $89 and a hoodie for $69, while a women’s jacket is $129, a dress is $119 and a skort is $79. Wood Wood’s men’s jacket is $89, a fl eece is $69, a women’s dress is $119, a cropped T is $59 and a bra top is $49. Craig Green’s selection includes a men’s sweatshirt for $69, men’s shorts for $79

and a women’s dress for $119.

Champion Select will be sold begin-ning Jan. 26 at Urban Outfi tters stores in the U.S. and Canada as well as Space Ninety 8 in Brooklyn and on the retailers’ Web site. Wood Wood will also be selling it exclusively in its stores in Europe.

Ted Marlow, chief executive officer of Urban Outfi tters, said: “No doubt we have ended up with unique interpretations that will be appreciated long after the current fashion moment. Our crew enjoyed work-ing with the creative teams at Champion, Wood Wood, Craig Green and Timo

Weiland to develop the collection. With the importance of active sportswear in today’s wardrobe, working with an iconic athletic brand such as Champion and the design teams served up by Capsule couldn’t have come at a better time as far as our custom-er’s closets are concerned.”

Moto said Champion always seeks to innovate and “look for unique ways to evolve.” Other collaborations include a successful multiseason capsule with Todd Snyder. “We’ve been superinspired by this and it’s something we will want to revisit.”

YMA Dinner Raises $3.4M

Caputo Joining Boston TradersDDK/BOSTON TRADERS has brought vet-eran designer Anthony Caputo on board in the new position of senior vice president of design and merchandising.

Caputo will lead the overall design and merchandising for DDK, and will serve as creative director for the company’s fl ag-ship Boston Traders brand. He will also develop private-label and branded offer-ings for key retailers.

Caputo was formerly vice president of men’s design for LF USA and also held senior creative posts at Calvin Klein and Joseph Abboud.

He will work closely with the company’s existing design talent: Lenor Romano in New York and Robert Aubuchon in Montreal. Romano, who is spearheading the sweater and knitwear design for the company, will continue to design and market her collec-

tion for better men’s specialty stores and will work with Caputo to build the Boston Traders brand in North America and abroad.

Paul Rosengard, chief executive offi cer of DDK, said: “Any time you can add some-one of Anthony’s caliber to your team it is a great move.” The two had worked together at LF USA.

DDK founder and co-owner Hershey Gold added: “The addition of Anthony is a major step forward in the evolution and growth of DDK. We are particularly ener-gized by what we know he can bring to our Boston Traders brand.”

DDK markets branded and private-label products to moderate and better department stores, specialty stores, mass merchants and others in North America and Europe. Its stable of brands include Boston Traders, Caribbean Joe, Lenor Romano and Utex. — J.E.P.

MATT BOMER: A-

The Golden Globe winner for best supporting actor in “The Normal Heart” also won the style show on the red carpet with his midnight blue, shawl

James Bond pocket

Moneypenny would

sartorial excellence.

The narrow-cut straight leg works perfectly with

his proportions and elongates his 6-foot frame.

On someone else, a shiny Chelsea Boot with

a bit of a heel would be a no-no, but on him, it

shows a wild side.

There is absolutely nothing wrong with his face — he

has the perfect jawline, eyebrows, everything. Sigh.

MATT BOMER: MATT BOMER: MATT BOMER: MATT BOMER: MATT BOMER: MATT BOMER: MATT BOMER: MATT BOMER: MATT BOMER: MATT BOMER: MATT BOMER: MATT BOMER: MATT BOMER: MATT BOMER: MATT BOMER: MATT BOMER: MATT BOMER: MATT BOMER: MATT BOMER: MATT BOMER: MATT BOMER: MATT BOMER: MATT BOMER: MATT BOMER: MATT BOMER: MATT BOMER: MATT BOMER: MATT BOMER: MATT BOMER: MATT BOMER: MATT BOMER: MATT BOMER: MATT BOMER: MATT BOMER: MATT BOMER: MATT BOMER: MATT BOMER: MATT BOMER: MATT BOMER: MATT BOMER: MATT BOMER: MATT BOMER: MATT BOMER: MATT BOMER: MATT BOMER: MATT BOMER: MATT BOMER: MATT BOMER: MATT BOMER: MATT BOMER: MATT BOMER: MATT BOMER: MATT BOMER: MATT BOMER: MATT BOMER:

Looks from the capsule collection.

Joseph Abboud with Julie and Doug Ewert.

Documents

AMERICAN REINVENTION Hickey Freeman Expands for Falldesigner David Hart as creative director. In 2013, Grano Retail Holdings bought all the tangible assets of the Hickey Freeman brand