© 2011 Mintel Group Ltd. All Rights Reserved.

Air, Water, Earth:Beauty Innovation and the Elements

in-cosmetics Asia, December 2011

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Every day at Mintel…

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• Mintel mega trend – Down to Earth

• Products containing air, water and earth

• Evolution of launch numbers and the share of product categories

• Examples of relevant products launched in the last 12 months

• What’s next

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Agenda

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Beauty Trend: Down to Earth

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Treating consumers as educated and

interested collaborators

Simplifying textand “stripping

back” claims to tell straightforward,

direct stories about plant-based

ingredients

Use of sustainable sourcing and maintaining

biodiversity in the production

Straightforward product stories

“Free-from”claims

Balancing different natural

and organic certifications

Practical aspects of

green beauty and

sustainability

Mastering challenges of

green chemistry(sustainable, biodegradable

formulas)

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Green Beauty Claims Report Growth in 2010

Green claims in BPC by # of new products, global: 2007 – YTD 2011

Skincare is the leading category for green beauty, and Europe (led by France) is the region where the most new green beauty products are launched.

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Source: Mintel Beauty InnovationGlobal beauty and personal care launches with eco-friendly package, eco-friendly product and carbon neutral claims, 2007-YTD 2011

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Recycling and the Environment Matter in Beauty

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Source: Mintel Oxygen Natural & Organic Personal Care - Europe - December 2010

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All Natural and Organic Personal Care Products are…

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Source: Mintel Oxygen Natural & Organic Personal Care -Europe - December 2010

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All Natural and Organic Personal Care Products are… (US)

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Source: Mintel Oxygen Natural & Organic Personal Care -US - March 2010

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All Natural and Organic Launches gain ground in Europe and Asia

Naturalized launches shown by region in BPC by # of new products, global: 2007 – YTD 2011

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Source: Mintel Beauty InnovationGlobal beauty and personal care launches with all natural and/or organic claims, 2007-YTD 2011

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Air

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Air

• The use of oxygen in products has gone beyond product names to become a key ingredient in its own right

• Looks at products that promise to deliver oxygen to the skin cells

• The use of oxygen in delivery systems was started by premium facial skincare brands but is now in masstige and mass market brands too.

• The trend has also migrated to bodycare, haircare and shower products

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Evolution of products containing oxygen, by subcategory

Skincare accounts for most oxygen claims. The number of productsfeaturing oxygen had steadily increased until Q1/2 2011,

but has dipped slightly in the last 5 months

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Contain oxygen

With time-released retinol and oxygen to boost the skin's

metabolism and protect against external stress factors such as free

radicals

Cooling, hydrating formula contains stimulating caffeine, skin-reviving oxygen and vitamin C to deflate

puffiness under the eyes

Enriched with anti-pollution, oxygen-rich chlorophyll to detoxify the skin each time the product is used. Also features organic plant water said to melt into the skin

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La Prairie Cellular Power Charge Night

Serum, €345

Bliss Triple Oxygen Instant Energizing

Eye Gel, $50

Bourjois Bio-Detox Foundation Cream,

€15.49

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Products with oxygenating properties, by category

Oxygenating claims are mostly made by skincare andcolour cosmetics. Q3/4 2010 saw a spike in such products due the

launch of complete oxygenating ranges.

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Oxygenating products

Said to give cells an oxygen boost with Oxygenine to counteract the

natural decrease of the oxygenation of cells

Features saccharomyces cerevisiae extract, said to have regenerating

and oxygenating actions, and peptides for added firmness

Lancer’s CRT Oxygen Technology Liposome complex contains ingredients that help to provide oxygenation while

combating the effects of Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS)

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Dr. Pierre Ricaud Radiant Complexion

Day Cream, €25

Bakel Cool Eyes Intensive Treatment,

$118.50

Lancer Skincare Nourish Am/Pm Nourishment

Cream, $100

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Oxygenating

Lotion is said to prepare, soothe, oxygenate and replenish, providing the optimal delivery of its advanced

fruit stem cells and increasing collagen and elastin levels

Features organic-certified Chlorophyllin Hordeum Complex

which has oxygenating and antioxidant properties

Contains marine collagen and vitamin E to hydrate the skin and

oxygenate the cells

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Andalou Naturals Age-Defying Facial Lotion Daily Defense, $14.99

Alorée Chlorocosmétic Facial Scrub Kit, €11

Norma Maliandi Bio Relax Hydro Oxygenating Cream,

AR$42 / $10

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Water

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Water

• Fresh sources of water plumbed for their specific benefits

• Thermal spa waters

• Pure inland water from Arctic and Alpine springs and glaciers

• Deep sea water from the Arctic and Pacific Oceans

• Polynesian lagoons

• Plant water

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Carbonated spa water to hydrate

Three Balancing Lotion Mask, JPY6825

• Mask said to feature carbonated spa water, organic essential oils, botanical water and plant extracts to hydrate, firm and suppress excessive sebum.

• It is claimed to regulate the balance between moisture and oil, prevent dryness and keep skin healthy, leaving it refined, translucent and smooth with a relaxing aroma.

• The 100% organic cotton sheet has 12 cutting areas for a perfect fit to skin.

• The 85% natural product is free from synthetic fragrance, synthetic colouring, paraben and GM ingredients, and was not tested on animals.

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Evolution of product launches featuring glacial water

The use of glacier water is increasing. There was a bit spike in Q3-Dec 2011, and the year has seen a total increase of 10% overall.

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Glacial snow melt water from the Alps

Pat's Snow Translucent Moisturizing Liquor, CNY149 /

$24

• Formulated with pure white complex essence, a blend of edelweiss and glacial snow melt water from the Alps, carob seed extract, hyaluronic acid and portulace oleracea extract

• The product is said to be easily absorbed into skin to prevent melanin formation and transmission, while accelerating skin regeneration, for a crystal snow-white, purified and nourished complexion

• The range is designed to provide 24-hour whitening care

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Glacial water from Mont Blanc and the Himalayas

Contains Lucas of France's spring water and Himalayan glacier water,

also known as life water.

Contains mineral-rich ionised glacial water from Mont Blanc for skin-

compatible moisturisation

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Garden Bamboo Skin Lotion, $23

Wetherm Protease Make-Up Removing Oil, CNY78 / €8.46

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Glacier water for anti-ageing

Chdeco Himalayan Purify Pure Nutrient All About BB

Cream, CNY46 / $7

Dr. Grandel Men Revitaliser, €32

Formulated with glacier water claimed to improve the appearance of fine lines and

help shrink enlarged pores

Pure glacial water and essential minerals are said to moisturise and refresh the skin, giving a youthful, dynamic and

revitalised appearance

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Deep sea, ocean and lagoon water

While launches with glacier water are increasing, those with lagoon, ocean and sea water have decreased slightly

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Ocean water

Formulated with deep ocean water, containing magnesium and sodium, to

deliver shine and health to the skin

Contains 100% Hawaiian ocean water, which is said to contain 300 times more

minerals than still water

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Saem Ardent Lady Perfection Proof BB Balm SPF27 PA++,

KRW16000 / €10.31

ICS Relaxing Aroma Shower Cologne, KRW19500 /

€12.50

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Polynesian lagoon water

Formulated with Polynesian lagoon water, which is rich in calcium and magnesium, to boost the skin's natural moisturising system and cellular vitality, slowing down the formation of signs of ageing

Features an active substance of cherry blossom extract to moisturise tired, dry and rough skin; and Polynesia lagoon water which contains rich

minerals and has a moisturising effect

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Nature Republic Bath & Nature Cherry Blossom Moisturising Body Lotion, KRW6600/ €4

Carita Ideal Hydratation, €40

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‘Mineral rich’ sea water

Features sea water mineral, said to increase the vitality of the fibroblasts,

epidermis keratinocytes and cell cohesion

Contains spring sea water, rich in minerals, to increase collagen IV levels and strengthen the skin, leaving it soft

and smooth

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Bio-Woman BB Magic Lotion, THB161 / $5.22

Visoanska Source Première Cleanser, €45

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Earth

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Earth

• Volcanic sand, rock and ash

• Clays - green, white or red, sourced from the Amazon, Tuscany, Morocco and India

• Carbon - fullerenes

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Features 100% pure RareMinerals ActiveSoil Complex

bareMinerals Purely Nourishing Moisturizer, $28

The range is formulated with 100% pure RareMinerals ActiveSoil Complex, a powerful blend of 72 essential macro and micro minerals with energising and revitalising benefits.

Extracted from nutritionally dense virgin soil, the proprietary complex is said to provide high antioxidant protection and significantly improve the appearance of skin.

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Evolution of product launches featuring volcanic properties

Skincare claimed 89% of launches featuring volcanic ingredients. There are no records of colour cosmetics featuring volcanic sources. This year, the number

of volcanic launches rose by a third compared to 2010

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Giorgio Armani Crema Nera Extrema Obsidian Mineral High

Recovery Elixir , CNY2080 / $312

Contains Extrema: a survival ingredient born on seabed volcanoes

• The anti-ageing serum contains Extrema, a survival ingredient born on seabed volcanoes that is claimed to be a powerful antioxidant which fights external aggression and protect the skin cells' DNA. It also contains a brightening Crystal Complex and renewing OMC3 (Obsidian Mineral Complex, a combination of four vital minerals: iron, silicon, sodium and potassium)

• The serum is said to provide triple recovery from the signs of ageing, reducing wrinkles, diminishing sagging and decreasing dark spots

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Volcanic and coastal sand

Formulated with Tahitian sand, salts and fine pumice to scrub away dry rough skin

and calluses, and marine extracts for antioxidant action

Features volcanic sand from Polynesia, which acts on the skin like a delicate

smoothing and toning scrub to eliminate dead skin cells

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Bottega Verde Talasso Smoothing & Softening Conditioning Scrub, $27

Crabtree & Evelyn La Source Warming Foot Smoother,

£16 / $25

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Volcanic rock

Contains volcanic rock extract from Tahiti, described as a natural source of nourishing essential trace elements, to revitalise tired,

stressed skin, and accelerate cell metabolism

Formulated with volcanic rocks that are designed to smooth the skin without destroying its

protective hydrolipidic film

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Bernard Cassière Soin Mineral Feet Care Volcanic Rocks Feet Scrub, €20.75

Artdeco Pure Minerals Ultra Moisture Eye Cream, €19.50

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Volcanic ash

The shampoo is enriched with Polynesian white ginger and volumising volcanic ash

Volcanic ash said to exfoliate, lift away dead skin cells, and revitalise the skin as well as reducing fine lines, wrinkles and

crow's feet

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Sella Volcanic AshMud Mask, $60

David Babaii for WildAid Amplifying Shampoo,

NZD30 / $25

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Evolution of products featuring clay

Over half the launches featuring clay are skincare products, and 1 in 4 are colour cosmetics. In 2011 clay launches increased 9%

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Red and white clay

Contains a new generation microfilm and 100% natural white clay

powders

Formulated with red clay to improve sallow, dull complexions and

asphyxiated skin

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Sisley Radiant GlowExpress Mask,

$102

Clarins Everlasting Compact Foundation, €37

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Formulated with Indian clay to cleanse pores, lift away dirt and

impurities and remove toxins from the skin

Each shadow is richly pigmented with Amazonian clay for pure

colour pay-off, silky application and long wear

Infused with natural buttersand oils, and Moroccan lava clayto add shine and prevent frizz

KeSARI Pore Minimizing Indian Clay

Masque, $29.50

Tarte for True Blood Collector's Palette ,

$52

Serge Normant Meta Form Sculpting Pomade, $25

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Indian, Amazonian and Morrocan clay

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Evolution of products featuring fullerenes

Fullerenes are predominantly a feature of skincare. Although launch numbers are still relatively low there has been a 30% increase in 2011

and the ingredient is moving into new areas.

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Etude House Sweet Heart #3 Ceramide Moisture Care Face Capsules , IDR148000/$17

Nanoce BB Sorbet Spray Foundation, JPY1890 / €17

Dr. Morita Red Wine Essence Eye Mask, SGD12.90 / $10.37

Fullerenes

Includes skin-nourishing ingredients, encapsulated in gelatin for convenience and improved preservation

The lightweight BB foundation is enriched with

moisturising ingredients and collagen as well as

fullerenes

Contains red wine polyphenols, ceramide,

collagen, hyaluronic acid, fullerenes, platinum, vegetal placenta and idebenone to

tighten, repair and regenerate the skin.

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Evolution of EGF (Epidermal Growth Factor) product launches

Almost all launches featuring EGF were in skincare products. Launch numbers YTD exceeded 2010 launch numbers by 18%

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EGF from barley grown in Icelandic water and natural volcanic soil

DNA EGF Renewal DNA Scar Therapy, $45

• The DNA EGF collection is the creation of Dr Ronald L. Moy, a scientist, dermatologist and cosmetic surgeon.

• Epidermal Growth Factor (EGF) is based on a patented technology, and is bio-engineered from barley grown in pure Icelandic waters and natural volcanic pumice soil. It is claimed to have exceptional integrity, quality, stability and effectiveness.

• The range is said to target the signs of ageing by diminishing wrinkles, brown spots and discoloration, leaving skin, clear, firm, radiant and healthy.

• The product is also said to minimise the appearance of scars with DNA repair enzymes and beta glucan.

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What’s next?

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What’s next?

So, while some restaurants have offered menus of

mineral waters for some time, the beauty

industry has now come on board too. Next stop, cloud juice, otherwise known as rainwater?

Waters with varying mineral, vitamin and pH levels add an ingestible complement to skincare and haircare products, adjusted according to

daily conditions

Water droppers will adjust pigment loads in make-up or the strength

of fragrances

Shots of skincare or haircare actives

designed to be added to water will take up

minimal luggage space and offer customisable

programmes

Using water as a starting point, new

products will provide a bridge between Mintel’s

Nutribeauty and Deconstructio trends

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Next generation: beauty water supplements?

The drink is said to feature four times more minerals than standard water

Designed to be portable, the product is available in Berry Pomegranate, Peach

Tea, Strawberry Watermelon, Fruit Punch, Mango Peach and Sweet Tea variants

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MiO Liquid Water Enhancer, $3.99

Sure Beauty Water, KRW1000/ $0.89

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Next generation: beauty water supplements?

Bottled with a new technology that reduces the water molecules in size, energising the oxygen molecules, raising activated oxygen levels by

700 times.

Provides 90mg of caffeine per serving, said to be the amount as in a cup of coffee

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Vitality Avitae Caffeinated Water

pHerformance Water,$1.38

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+44 20 7606 4533vrudd@mintel.com

Vivienne RuddHead of Beauty and Personal Care Insights