Africa & Middle East Textiles issue 3 2012

Textile dye marketlooking upAmélioration dumarché decolorants textiles

Pleins feux sur l'Afrique du Sud

Sportswear de haute technologie

Révue de l'ITMA Asie + CITME 2012

Spotlight on South Africa

High-tech sportswear

ITMA ASIA + CITME 2012 review

ISSUE THREE/2012TROISIÉME EDITION/2012

Pleins feux sur l'Afrique du Sud

Sportswear de haute technologie

Révue de l'ITMA Asie + CITME 2012

Spotlight on South Africa

High-tech sportswear

ITMA ASIA + CITME 2012 review

ITMA 2012 weaves a success story

Textile dye marketlooking upAmélioration dumarché decolorants textiles

AFTEX Issue 3 2012 Cover_cover.qxd 07/09/2012 14:06 Page 1

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DEVELOPMENTS 4News of recent textile projects, markets and contracts

SPOTLIGHT ON SOUTH AFRICA 6It’s turnaround time for South African textile manufacturers

DYES AND CHEMICALS 10Textile dyes market headed for a brighter tomorrow

TEXTILE PRINTING 13Advancements in screen and digital printing

ITMA ASIA+ CITME 2012 REVIEW 15ITMA Asia 2012 sees overwhelming response

APPAREL AFRICA 17Olympics 2012 breathes innovation into sportswear

DEVELOPPEMENTS 4Revue des récents projets textiles, marches, contrats

PLEINS FEUX SUR L’AFRIQUE DU SUD 6C'est le temps de rotation pour les fabricants textiles sud-africains

COLORANTS ET PRODUITS CHIMIQUES 10Le marché de colorants textiles dirigé vers un avenir plus brillant

L’IMPRESSION TEXTILE 13Progrès dans l’impression d’écran et numérique

RÉVUE DE L’ITMA ASIE + CITME 2012 15L’ITMA Asie 2012 – un grand success

RÉVUE D’HABILLEMENT 17L'innovation dans le sportswear grâce aux Jeux Olympiques 2012

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Couverture: Colorants et produits chimiquesInset: I’ITMA Asie+ CITME 2012

Cover: Dyes and chemicalsInset: ITMA Asia+ CITME 2012

CONTENTS

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AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE THREE/2012 3


TEXTILE NEWS

German firm to invest in Zambian textile sectorTHE ZAMBIAN TEXTILE sector will soon receive in-vestments from Germany-based firm Conventium Inter-national Limited.The company’s managing director, Klaus Ehrhardt, dis-closed in an interview recently that his company has al-ready conducted feasibility studies with regard to investingin textile industries in Zambia. The firm has also showninterest in investing in Zambian medical sector.Ehrhardt added that his company was interested inbuying cotton from the Zambian cotton growers for itsown factories and spinning mills in Turkey. The com-pany also has plans to set up a modern textile facilityin Zambia, he said.“This move must be seen as the initial step in order to learnmore about the Zambian economy. We also want to studythe cotton supply levels among the local farmers beforemaking any gigantic move,” said Ehrhardt.Conventium has plans to set up a sewing factory forwomen’s casual garments such as T- shirts, leggings, skirtsand sweat shirts.“The move will be directed to fulfill the company’s visionto meet the growing demand for various clothing gar-ments, especially for women,” he added.

Iran may soon drawinvestments from IndiaTHE GROWING TEXTILE market of Iran has beendrawing a lot of foreign investments in recent times.India has been planning to join the race soon by boost-ing export of textiles to Iran.“We are eyeing newer markets which have been initi-ated couple of years ago... Especially, tapping the po-tential of the Middle East, CIS (Commonwealth ofIndependent States) and Iran markets have been on ourcards. The scope is immense,” said the Indian unioncommerce secretary S R Rao.Besides these countries, he said, there is also the possi-bility of exporting Indian textiles to China, which itselfis deemed as the largest textile exporter in the world.

Cotton output surpasses targetin ZimbabweZIMBABWE’S COTTON PRODUCTION has surpassedinitial targets in spite of an impasse in prices, said a seniorofficial from the ministry of agriculture.“The cotton output stood at 316,000 tonnes, surpassing tar-gets despite the price impasse,” said Ngoni Masoka, theministry’s permanent secretary. In the 2012 national budget,cotton output was projected to reach 286,000 tonnes.Early this year, cotton farmers were holding onto their cropprotesting against the poor prices that were being offered.Merchants were offering a price of US$30 per kg, whichwas unacceptable to farmers. The government later inter-vened and set the minimum price at US$77 per kg.

Graf awarded Supplier of the Year 2012 titleSWISS COMPANY GRAF+Cie AG, has been namedthe Supplier of the Year 2012. The director president ofJingwei Textile Machinery Co. Ltd, Yao Yuming, handedover the award to Graf recently. The company was judged on parameters like engage-ment, quality of service and the long-term close co-operation with clients.A statement from Graf+Cie AG said, “We take greatpleasure in having received the appraisal of JingweiTextile Machinery Co. Ltd. as ‘Supplier of the Year2012’. We appreciate the cooperative relationship withJingwei Textile Machinery Co. Ltd. and view thisaward as recognition of our efforts to achieve cus-tomer satisfaction.“It is our key aim for the future to provide our cus-tomers with high quality, innovative and sustainableproducts and to further strengthen the cooperation,”

September 2012

13-16 4th Islamic Fashion, Apparel and Accessories Fair ISTANBUL, TURKEY

www.demosfuar.com.tr.

25-27 16th IAW Trade Fair for Retail Promotions and Imports GERMANY www.iaw-messe.de/trade-fair.aspx26- 29 FIMAST 2012: International Textile Machinery and Accessory Trade Show BRESCIA, ITALY

www.fimast.com

October 20123 - 6 IGATEX Pakistan 2012 LAHORE, PAKISTAN

www.igatex.pk

4-5 2012 Sustainable Textiles Conference HONG KONG

www.textileexchange.org

4- 6 Technotext-2012, 2nd International Exhibition &

Conference on Technical Textiles MUMBAI, INDIA

www.technotexindia.in

11 Military/Other Government Agency Textile/Apparel Conference NORTH CAROLINA, USA

www.internationalmarketsolutions.com

18- 20 2012 SGIA Expo, Las Vegas Convention Center LAS VEGAS, USA

www.sgia.org

22 - 24 Cinte Techtextil China SHANGHAI, CHINA

www.messefrankfurt.com.hk

22-24 China International Knitting Trade Fair SHANGHAI, CHINA

www.chinaknitting.com.cn

November 20121- 2 Hong Kong 2012, Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre HONG KONG

www.ica-ltd.org

4 - 6 ITMF Annual Conference 2012 HANOI, VIETNAM

wwww.itmf.org

7-9 5th International Technical Textiles Congress IZMIR, TURKEY

http://web.deu.edu.tr/ttk2012

7- 9 IFAI Expo Americas 2012 BOSTON, USA

www.ifai.com

13- 15 Filtration International Conference & Exposition PHILADELPHIA, USA

www.inda.org

15 -16 TCL2012, the International Conference on

Textiles Coating and Laminating 2012 VALENCIA, SPAIN

http://www.technical-textiles.net

23- 24 2nd International Conference on Textile & Apparel (ICTA-2012) DHAKA, BANGLADESH

www.icta.textiletoday.com

DECEMBER 20122-7 India ITME 2012 - 9th India International Textile Machinery Exhibition MUMBAI, INDIA

www.india-itme.com

JANUARY 20139- 12 Heimtextil: International Trade Fair for Home and Contract Textiles FRANKFURT, GERMANY

www.heimtextil.messefrankfurt.com

29- 31 VISION 2013 Consumer Products Conference ORLANDO, FLORIDA

www.inda.org/events

MARCH 20131 Outlook Asia 2013 NEW DELHI, INDIA

www.edana.org

28-30 MEGATECH Pakistan 2013 LAHORE, PAKISTAN

www.megatechpakistan.com

TEXTILE CALENDAR / CALENDRIER

Further information on these events can usually be obtained from the Embassy

(Commercial Office) of the country in question.

Des renseignements plus complets sur ces évènements peuvent être demandés de l’Ambassade (Bureau Commerciel) du pays en question

4 AFRICA AND MIDDLE EAST TEXTILES ISSUE THREE/2012


THE US CONGRESS has voted to renew the AfricanGrowth and Opportunity Act (AGOA) and extend it bythree years, just two months before its was set to expire.The act has supported thousands of jobs in Africa’sclothing sector in recent years due to the number of ben-efits it has provided African textile manufacturers.If the provision failed to get an extension, a large per-centage of African countries would have temporarily, ifnot permanently, lost duty-free access for clothing itemsexported to the US.AGOA, which was first passed in 2000, has provided in-centives for African nations to open up their economiesand build free markets. About 40 African countries havebeen eligible for AGOA benefits up until now. The re-newed legislation has also made South Sudan eligible forthe benefits.The act offers substantial trade preferences that allow al-most all goods produced in the AGOA-eligible countriesto enter the US market duty free. AGOA’s effectiveness,however, has depended on its third country-fabric (TCF)provision, which was set to expire in September 2012.Under the TCF provision, lesser-developed beneficiarycountries enjoy an additional preference in the form ofduty-free access for apparel made from fabric originatinganywhere in the world.Kenyan President Mwai Kibaki said, “The AGOA exten-

sion will lead to an expansion in exports from Kenyaand the whole of Africa to the US markets besides pro-moting a high-level dialogue on trade and investment-re-lated issues.“The act, which was signed into law 12 years ago, hasencouraged economic integration and stimulated jobgrowth in the country,” he added.The uncertainty that prevailed until recently over whetheror not the act would be extended was having a severe im-pact on the African textile industry.Manufacturers in Lesotho and Swaziland had been lay-ing off workers in anticipation of a fall in demand.

TEXTILE NEWS

US Congress votes to renew textile trade act with Africa

AGOA supports thousands of jobs in Africa’s clothing sectordue to the number of benefits it offers to textile manufacturers

SOUTH AFRICAN MINISTERof economic developmentEbrahim Patel has called for apush to the textile industry to en-sure creation of jobs in the sector. The rising job losses and man-agement-worker conflicts haveresulted in a series of negativeimpacts on textile industry acrossthe African continent. Patel said at a briefing in Preto-ria, “South Africa needs a deeppartnership between business andlabour to help the clothing andtextile industry preserve and cre-ate jobs.”South Africa could also benefitfrom a surge of investments fromthe Middle East textile investors,he added. Patel was extremely positiveabout new government supportpolicies that encouraged technol-ogy upgrade and said it wouldhelp in stemming job losses.

SA minister calls forpush to textile sector


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S03 AFTEX Issue 1 2012 Dyes & Chemicals_calendar.qxd 07/09/2012 14:26 Page 17

SPOTLIGHT ON SOUTH AFRICA

It’s turnaround time for SouthAfrican textile manufacturersThe boom in South African consumer market has led to a surge in textile imports. The domestic clothing and textile businesses have responded to the rush by trying to attract foreign investments with specialised products

THE RISE IN competition faced by South African industrialists after endingof the Multi Fibre Arrangement, which determined quotas on the amount

developing countries could export to developed countries, has now dissolved.The textile and clothing sectors are much fitter as a result and responding to animport surge in South Africa with innovation and specialisation.

On the face of it, the latest international trade figures are disappointing. Helddown by Chinese competition and ‘difficult’ markets in both Europe and NorthAmerica, textile (fabric and fibre) exports have more or less remained stablesince 2000 at around US$250mn per year.

However, overseas clothing sales have steadily tumbled to below theUS$200mn mark while imports have soared from roughly US$223mn in 2000to a massive US$1363mn in 2010 according to the WTO figures.

World Cup has been the major fuel to the import rush in the country andChina is the biggest player in influencing this sports-fuelled surge. However,other African countries have also been targeting the apparently booming SouthAfrican consumer market.

This has all been paid for, of course, by a relatively small general trade gapsustained by all those profitable hard-mineral exports to China, in particular.But, based on this year’s hard-commodities performance that situation could beon the change.

The domestic textiles and clothing businesses represented by major worldperformers such as Associated Spinners, Da Gama Textiles, CordustexManufacturing and the various Frame enterprises have certainly shrunk overall,but they are still going out of their way to attract foreign investment for futuregrowth based on their specialised niche products such as technical-gradesynthetic fibres and top-end garments and furnishing fabrics.

Most of this capital quest is successfully being targeted at sovereign wealthfunds and Far Eastern sources, who value South Africa’s membership of the

USA’s African Growth & Opportunity Act and its sophisticatedinfrastructure, including IT and banking services, in particular.

An estimated billion dollars-plus has been spent on thesesince the mid 1990s, when the prospect of threatening post-

MFA change started to loom.In this move forwards, of course,

today’s Rainbow Republic isn’talone. As a new-found ‘BRICS’member South Africa is one ofvery few medium-sized/middle-income, but still emerging,economies in Africa. As such it

regards labour-intensive textile-based production as somewhat 20th

century in flavour, even though it stillmakes a hugely positive difference to the

employment figures. Like Mauritius, the economic base of South Africa has

moved on. That very prosperous island state’sclothing exports have shrunk by nearly a third

since the turn of the century, too.Of course a lot depends with what’s

happening with the economy overall, both at

home and abroad. Fairly steady growth has been maintained through most ofthis handy ten-year review period, with a sustainable but not exciting (by sub-Saharan standards!) 2.5-3.0 per cent being forecast for 2012. Consumer pricerises are being kept around the higher five-point mark, and interest rates havebeen falling satisfactorily recently.

Meanwhile, the all-important international value of the Rand – whichinfluences trading conditions throughout southern Africa, as well as the exportspromoted by the SA Textile Industry Export Council – has reached a welcomefour-year low against the dollar, currently around R8.30 to the dollar comparedwith an export-crippling R6.77 just a year ago.

The much-respected domestic banking system has managed to miss out onmost recent global woes, and the only really dark cloud on the business horizonis the appallingly high level of unemployment, which of course affects female

Domestic textiles and clothing businesses have shrunk overall, but they are still goingout of their way to attract foreign investments with their specialised products


S02 AFTEX 3 2012 Country Feature_Layout 1 07/09/2012 11:54 Page 6

SPOTLIGHT ON SOUTH AFRICA

textile and clothing workers more than most.Business-conditions surveyors like the World Bank/IMF, World Economic

Forum (specifically their very useful African “Competitiveness” rankings) andErnst & Young (“Attractiveness”) consistently rate South Africa highlycompared with its sub-Saharan competition.

Some note that in terms of size of economy Nigeria is now catching up fast.But, the appointment of Nkosazana Dlamimi-Zuma, a South African, as the headof the influential African Union in July was a real feather in the nation’s cap.

Against this mixed background, the industry’s Export Councilpoints out that the combined yarn and fabric, clothing, technicalmaterials and home furnishing industries “are among the mostestablished sectors of the South African manufacturing economy…[having] gained international recognition for specialisation.”

The official DTI body stresses the special service it offers tosmall, micro and medium enterprises, black economic businessesand those run by women. This is particularly important for theimport-threatened clothing business under today’s particularlychallenging conditions.

“Based on our South African and African history we can meetyour requirements for products that require something different,”they confidently say (www.satiec.co.za for more details; footwearand leather products are looked after by a separate Export Council).

The only dedicated textile and clothing trade fair we could findfor the remainder of this year is the combined “Garments &Textiles Johannesburg” ( with “Fashion & Accessories”) eventwhich is being held in the business capital from 28-30 November.

Significantly, this is organised by Global Sources of HongKong, so it will presumably focus on the booming business withChina (call +852 8199-7308 for details). For news of more general

trade-promotion events such as the “Indaba” series visit www.eventseye.comWe’ll leave the last word to SATIEC’s own website and its incorporated link

to www.designafrica.info and the eight-nation Design Africa initiative. “A newgeneration of designers … is coming to the fore and they are ready to show theworld the continent’s true talent. Whether you are a traditional textilemanufacturer, design is the value proposition, and if you are a designmanufacturing company, seeking global exposure or a buyer … now is the timeto make your mark”. ❑


Yarn and fabric clothing, technical and home furnishing materials are among the sectors of the SouthAfrican manufacturing economy that have gained international recognition for specialisation

KOREA WILL NOW be able to share its experience in textilemanufacturing with Ethiopia through the Ethiopia-Korea Textile Co-operation Centre, which was recently opened in Addis Ababa.

Speaking at the inaugural ceremony, Ethiopia’s industry ministerTadesse Haile said the centre would play a vital role in supporting thetextile industry and also help in achieving technology transfer.

He said the new establishment would aid the development of Ethiopia’stextile industry, and also extend support to the private sector to help it raiseits competiveness.

Textile and apparel sectors lead the list of priority industries recognisedas the key drivers of industrialisation policy in Ethiopia’s five-year Growthand Transformation Plan (GTP), said Haile.

Korea’s rich experience in rapid industrialisation, especially indevelopment of green industrialisation, and the lead role of the governmentin this regard, would help Ethiopia in realising the GTP, he added.

During the last Ethiopian fiscal year, the domestic textile industryin Ethiopia contributed about US$90mn to the country’s economy,Haile said.

He added that by the end of the GTP period, the industry was expectedto earn US$1bn from the export market annually.

Jae Do Moon, Korean deputy minister for international affairs, ministryof knowledge economy, said Korean assistance on textile front wouldgreatly contribute to sustainable economic growth of Ethiopia. Hementioned that Korea would extend support on the front of textiletechnology transfer.

South Korean Ambassador to Ethiopia, Jong Geun Kim, said the twocountries have shared bilateral trade ties for over past six decades and theinauguration of the centre would further bolster Korea’s existing trade tieswith Ethiopia.

Ethiopia-Korea Textile Co-operation Centre launched in Addis Ababa

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TEXTILE NEWS


THE BIGGEST TEXTILE factoryin the Middle East has opened inthe emirate of Fujairah in UAE. Theplace which used to boast of its portand beachside resorts can now betermed as a throbbing textile tradehub.The plant was built at a cost ofDh225mn (US$61.2mn) by the Azer-baijan government, in partnershipwith the Fujairah Government andpromises to produce 10,000 tonnes ofcotton yarn each year.The chief executive of United TextilesFZE, a new company running theplant located inside Fujairah FreeZone, Raj Kumar Kak said, “Withinthe UAE, we believe that Fujairah hasalways provided the best facilities toforeign investments.”Relatively low overhead costs and ex-cellent road and connectivity werealso important factors that influencedour decision,” he added.The 44,250 sq m factory has a capacityof 45,600 spindles and can employ aworkforce of about 225 people.The yarn will be used as a raw mate-

rial for industries such as clothing andgarment-making, as well as knittingfurniture fabrics.Produce from the factory will be ex-ported to markets in Asia, the UnitedStates, North Africa, Europe and theMiddle East.The opening ceremony of the factorywas held in June. “Built with the lat-est technologies, the plant is thebiggest textile unit in the Gulf Co-op-eration Council (GCC) and the Mid-dle East,” said Kak, in a speechaddressed to Sheikh Hamad bin Mo-hammed, Ruler of Fujairah, duringthe opening ceremony.“By way of this plant, United Textileslooks forward to making a positivecontribution to the regional economy,”he added.General manager of Fujairah FreeZone, Sharif Al Awadi informed thatthere were 2,600 factories and compa-nies operating in the free zone. He added that the new textile facilitywould create around 20 new posi-tions in senior management for UAEcitizens.

Fujairah is quietly growing its econ-omy and expanding industries as dif-ferent sectors receive heavyinvestment from the local governmentand partners located overseas.Three major malls are expected tolaunch in Fujairah this year, signifi-cantly adding to the retail land-

scape and ensuring residents nolonger have to travel to other emi-rates to shop.Created in 1987, Fujairah Free Zonehas become a popular base amongmanufacturing companies thanks toits close proximity to the port andinfrastructure for exporting goods.

Biggest textile factory in Middle East opens in Fujairah emirate

Facilities for foreign investments, low overhead costs and excellent connectivity hasled United Textiles FZE to set up the plant in Fujairah

THE TEXTILE MARKET inTurkey’s northwesternprovince of Bursa has beenagog with activity in the firstsix months of 2012. Textile and garments worthUS$884.9mn were exportedduring the period said a reportfrom the Anatolia NewsAgency.

The exports from Bursa inready-made clothing andgarments dropped 6.29 percent, while those in textiles rose9.98 per cent in the period.

The total export figure oftextiles, ready-made clothingand garment sectors increasedfrom US$844.6mn in first half of 2011 to US$884.9mn in first half of 2012.

According to figures from the Uluda Exporters’ Associations, textileexports rose from US$574.3mn in the first half of 2011 to US$631.6mn in thefirst half of 2012.

Ready-made clothing and garment exports decreased from US$270.3mn toUS$253.3mn in the same compared period.

The province exported textiles to 116 countries and autonomous regions andto nine free zones. Ready-made exports reached 112 countries and autonomousregions and seven free zones. The exports figure for June was US$107.8mn, anincrease of 10.47 per cent from the same month last year, while ready-madeexports decreased by 1.37 per cent to US$47.6mn.

Turkey’s textile export up in first half of 2012

THE DUBAI CENTRAL Laboratory (DCL) at Dubai Municipality has is-sued a set of new public health and safety requirements and specificationsrelated to textile products.Amin Ahmad Amin, head of consumer product laboratory, told Gulf Newsthat the new set of requirements ensured that materials were free of sub-stances that could be transmitted to the human body and pose health riskslike cumulative skin diseases and sores.To ensure that the requirements were followed, Amin said that DCL had fa-cilities to check the stability of colours and tints used in textile items and as towhether the textile will be damaged by sweating or exposure to light or wash-ing, as those also came under the risks to human health and environment.Other tests that textiles would undergo at DCL include checking the type ofcloth, examining pH-value that may cause skin allergies, presence of aller-genic formaldehyde compounds and tests to measure concentration of heavytoxic elements, remains of pesticides and harmful hazardous amines. Aminadded that DCL would provide the facilities to conduct tests.Hawa Abdullah Bastaki, director of Dubai Central Laboratory, said, “DCLissues the new requirements and specification as a step to achieve the strate-gic vision of Dubai to become a Green City. This comes after carrying outanalysis of UAE’s environment conditions and after thorough study of bestinternational practices.”Many federal and local bodies — Roads and Transport Authority (RTA),Dubai Electricity and Water Authority (DEWA), Dubai Police and TheArmed Force, to name a few — have expressed their interest and concern inthe new initiative, Hawa said. She explained that those organisations have started cooperating with DCLto make their uniform’s textile material suppliers abide by the new set ofspecification.

New safety rules for Dubai textile industry

Bursa’s textile exports rose from US$574.3mn inthe first half of 2011 to US$631.6mn in the firsthalf of 2012 according to reports

S02 AFTEX 3 2012 Country Feature_Layout 1 07/09/2012 11:54 Page 8

TEXTILE NEWS

THE AFRICAN COTTON sector, which wasravaged by problems last year, is set to receiveaid from India to recover from the crisis.India has launched a US$4.66mn programme to develop the cotton industry across the African continent.The plan will initially cover seven countries acrossthe continent, SK Makhijani, economic counsellorin the Indian High Commission in Abuja, Nigeria,told IANS.The seven countries are Benin, Nigeria, Chad,Burkina Faso, Mali, Malawi and Uganda, Makhi-jani said, adding, “The entire project is valued atUS$4.66mn and it covers the period from January2012 to December 2014.”Experts claim African producers have not beenable to improve their production over the past fewdecades. Alejandro Plastin, an economist of the In-ternational Cotton Advisory Council (ICAC), saidAfrican cotton production declined from a peak oftwo million tonnes in 2004-05 to just a milliontonne in the three seasons up to last year.“African cotton accounted for seven per cent ofworld cotton production at its peak, while it ac-counts for only five per cent now,” added Plastin.Notwithstanding the low production, he said,

“African cotton is perceived to be of higherquality than cotton from many competingorigins and to have fewer neps because ofhand picking. However, African cotton hasa strongly negative perception for contami-nation and delays in delivery linked topoor roads, railroads and ports.“Furthermore, most African cotton is stillhand-classed, while competing exportersmake full use of high volume instruments.However, the greatest challenge forAfrican cotton is its declining interna-tional competitiveness due to decliningyields,” Plastin said.Despite the increase in production observed overthe last three decades, the total area under produc-tion globally always fluctuated around 33mnhectares.“Consequently, increase in production wasdriven by increase in yields. In particular, in-creases in yields from the 1990s to the 2000swere driven by the adoption of better productionpractices around the globe and adoption ofbiotechnology in major producing countries.This is what kept Africa's production very lowbecause it had not been able to keep up with the

changes in the sector,” Plastin added.Last year, Payhounni Bebnone, vice president ofthe African Producers of Cotton Association (AP-roCA), said in a meeting of the Africa cotton pro-ducers in Cotonou, Benin, that the industry acrossthe continent was “facing many different chal-lenges. Efforts in some countries to find solutionshave rather contributed to worsening of the situa-tion.” He identified access to land for productionas one of the main problems. “Most of the landwas leased and there was insecurity to tenure. Thishas affected programmes to promote better farm-ing practices,” Bebnone said.

African cotton sector to receive assistance from India


The greatest challenge for African cotton currently is its declininginternational competitiveness due to falling yields


TECHNOLOGICAL INNOVATIONS,GROWING consumerism, population growth

and changing perceptions about fashion is set toinfluence the textile dyes market in a big way. Areport tabled by the Global Industry Analysts (GIA)entitled ‘Textile Dyes: A Global Strategic BusinessReport’ has projected that the textile dyes marketwill touch US$5.9 billion by 2017.

Over the last five years, the dye manufacturingindustry has had to cope with several challenges. In2008-2009, all textile chemical companies had to

deal with marked increases in feedstock prices andlow demand from the textile sector. Due to theindustry being highly raw material intensive, theprofit margins were also adversely affected.Moreover, increasing pricing pressures, as well ashigh energy and transportation costs, coupled withcapacity under-utilisation resulted in a lot of highsand lows, according to GIA. A key trend in thetextile dyes market has been the migration ofproduction facilities from high cost bases in the USand Europe to low cost Asian countries.

The textile dyes market is looking at a brightertomorrow as a result of innovative developments ineco-friendly dyes and chemicals as well as growingpreferences for enhanced performance from newmaterials. Dye manufacturers and textile producersare developing innovative products and processes tocomply with strict environmental regulations.Research and development spending have also beenrecognised as an important factor to underpin suchinnovations.

According to GIA, the largest and fastestgrowing market for textile dyes is the Asia-Pacificregion. Within this region, China, Taiwan andKorea have a stranglehold in disperse dyes, withChina in top position in the production and export ofreactive, direct, disperse, acid and basic dyes.

India holds a dominant position in the productionof reactive dyes. The Indian dye industry is growingfast with help from its developed chemical industrycoupled with high-entrepreneurial skills andsufficient availability of feedstock. In terms ofvalue sales, GIA states that fibre-reactive dyesrepresent the largest segment in the global textiledyes market.

It was clear from the developments introduced atITMA 2011 that the message that innovation in eco-friendly dyes and chemicals can lead to dramaticimprovements in sustainability had been taken onboard. These improvements are measurable in termsof the saving in water quantity, energy and processingtime, all of which have positive impact on profitmargins and international competitiveness because ofthe cost saving that such benefits produce.

Global competitiveness in textile dyeing,printing and finishing is highly dependent upon theeconomics of textile wet processing, machineutilisation and productivity. Embracing newtechnology will be the key to future survival andgrowth, and innovation in dyes and chemicals willbe important in this connection.

Recent developmentsThe projected growth in the dyes market hasfostered a lot of developments in the sector. Clarianthas recently introduced a new acid dyestuff,Lanasyn Flavine F-5G, which is metal-free andprovides an outstandingly brilliant yellow colourwhen applied to polyamide, wool and their blends.Brilliance of colour is an important criterion formany fashion end-uses, especially in the sportswearand swimwear sectors. As Lanasyn Flaxine F-5G isperfectly compatible with Clariant's Lanasyn

DYES & CHEMICALS

Textile dyes market headed for a brighter tomorrow


The textile dyes market is looking at a brighter tomorrow as a result ofinnovative developments in eco-friendly dyes and chemicals.

By Ian Holme

S03 AFTEX 3 2012 Dyes & Chemicals_Layout 1 07/09/2012 11:48 Page 10

DYES & CHEMICALS

Turquoise M-5G, this dye combination now offers textile designers, dye houses and textile printers theopportunity to produce exciting bright green shades. This opens up new design and fashion opportunitiesin bright yellows and greens on polyamides and wool which were previously not possible.

Both Lanasyn Flavine F-5G and Lanasyn Turquoise M-5G exhibit tone-on-tone rate of strike toprovide high colour build-up without any mutual blocking. The response of these two dyestuff to pHchanges is similar so that the combination is ideally suitable for pH shift dyeing using Opticid VAN liq c(Clariant). Another important aspect of the performance of this dyestuff combination on 80/20polyamide/elastane swimwear is high colour fastness to light as a self-shade, together with tone-on-tonefading of Lanasyn Flavine F-5G when used with Lanasyn Turquoise M-5G.

Lanasyn Flavine F-5G is said to exhibit the highest brilliance of all non-fluorescent acid yellowdyestuffs currently available. Brilliant yellows and greens can now be dyed on polyamide and wool tomatch similar colours dyed on cellulosic fibres using reactive dyes. Lanasyn Flavine F-5G exhibits highwet fastness properties on polyamides and wool and is recommended for application to polyamide,polyamide/elastane and wool textiles. This novel yellow acid dyestuff from Clariant is also suitable foruse in CMYK printing systems.

Nylosan Brilliant Red S-3R is again a new, unique dyestuff from Clariant which claims to outperformexisting milling red dyestuffs and, in addition, offers far superior build-up for the deepest red shades.

Eminently compatible with Clariant's range of Nylosan S dyestuffs, this new dyestuff offers greatlyenhanced colour fastness and build-up compared with CI Acid Red 131 and CI Acid Red 249. On 80/20polyamide 6/elastane fabric, Nylosan Brilliant Red S-3R has demonstrated superior colour fastness overCI Acid Reds 131 and 249 in the AATCC Cold Water text, ISO 105 E04 alkaline perspiration, and ISOCO6 B25 wash fastness test.

Clariant has also introduced three new Foron S-WF disperse dyestuffs for polyester dyeing. ForonTurquoise S-WF is a brilliant blue/turquoise dyestuff which is recommended for use as a self-shade for

sportswear or as a combinationelement for bright green shades.Foron Vermillion S-WF is a verybrilliant red dyestuff providinghigh tinctorial strength coupledwith the highest colour fastnessto wet treatments on sportswear.

The third dyestuff, ForonAtlantic Blue S-WF is agreenish-blue dyestuff offering ahigh reverse on cotton. Thisdyestuff can be used as acombination element for greenand blue shades and can be usedfor control of metamerism,shifting shades greener underincandescent light sources.

Critical Colours SolutionPale to medium shades of olive, grey, red-brown, khaki and beige are some of the most difficult colours dyedon cellulosic textiles using reactive dyestuffs. The solution for such critical shades according to EverlightChemical Industrial Corporation (Taiwan) is their Critical Colors Solution based on their Everzol CSdyestuffs that provide exceptional dyeing compatibility in exhaust dyeing.

The Everzol CS range includes Everzol Yellow CS, Everzol Red Brown CS, Everzol Olive CS andEverzol Grey CS. All these Everzol CS dyestuffs provide enhanced colour fastness to light andchlorinated water and, in addition, offer confident laboratory to bulk reproducibility and right-first-timedyeing performance.

DyStar have introduced a novel and innovative reactive dyestuff, Levafix Dark Blue CA, designed as ahigh colour fastness to light dyestuff for pale-medium blue depths of shade. It is also intended for usewith DyStar's Remazol RGB/Ultra RGB dyestuff combinations, especially where an economical high


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Over the last five years, the dye manufacturing industry hashad to cope with several challenges. In 2008-2009, all textilechemical companies had to deal with marked increases infeedstock prices and low demand from the textile sector.

Due to the industry being highly raw material intensive, theprofit margins were also adversely affected

Dyestuffs and chemicals from Clariant


light fastness blue component is needed. LevafixDark Blue CA also exhibits high colour fastness toozone and nitrogen gases, coupled with goodperspiration light fastness as in the NIKE PLF (ISO105 B07) test.

Levafix Dark Blue CA meets the requirements ofmany market challenges. The market requiressatisfactory high performance with regard to colourfastness, ecological/toxicological issues andsustainability impact, as well as decreasing costs.Levafix Dark Blue CA provides the dyer withcolour confidence in terms of its high colourfastness to light under different agencies, as well asproviding controlled coloration performance. Inaddition, the reactive dyestuff is flexible from theviewpoint of application technology. Levafix DarkBlue CA is applicable by exhaust, cold pad-batchand most continuous dyeing processes. It offersbalanced migration, level dyeing and very goodreproducibility, high fixation on cellulosic fibresand good wash-off behaviour.

In this connection, Levafix Dark Blue CA issuitable for the newly-developed Sera Eco Washprocess developed by DyStar. This utilises aninnovative textile auxiliary product, Sera Fast C-RD, which is a wash-clearing additive that imparts apronounced wash-accelerating action. This additivespeeds up the removal of hydrolysed reactivedyestuffs at 60°C. This enhanced wash-clearingsystem saves on water, energy and processing timeas well as exerting a major impact on machineproductivity and on sustainability.

Tri-reactive dyestuffsHuntsman Textile Effects has introduced its AviteraSE range of tri-reactive dyestuffs for exhaustapplication to cellulosic textiles. Its use can becombined with Hutntsman's Gentle Power BleachSystem developed jointly with Genencor enablingcotton to be bleached at 65°C under neutral pHconditions. Thus, low-temperature bleaching can befollowed by warm ultra-short reactive dyeing usingAvitera SE dyestuffs and using a high-performancewash-clearing additive Eriopon LT. As a result, wetprocessing is conducted at temperatures that neverexceed 65°C. The Huntsman Textile Effects AviteraSE trichromat is based on Avitera Yellow SE (CIReactive Yellow 217), Avitera Red SE (CI ReactiveRed 286) and Avitera Deep Blue SE (CI ReactiveBlue 281). Avitera Yellow SE is a non-photochromic golden yellow, Avitera Red SE is abrilliant bluish-red and Avitera Deep Blue SE is agreenish-casted deep blue dyestuff offering goodbuild-up on cellulosic fibres.

Huntsman's Avitera SE reactive dyes are basedupon novel chemistries and are particularlydesigned for the production of medium-to-darkshades. The high-aqueous solubility of theAvitera SE dyestuffs ensures that they areapplicable via ultra-short dyeing and wash-offcycles. The wash-off process time is markedlydecreased because of the high degree ofexhaustion and fixation of the Avitera SE

dyestuffs on cellulosic fibres. As a result, thesenovel reactive dyestuffs provide a drasticreduction in water consumption, savings in energyand other natural resources, savings in processingtime and decrease in carbon dioxide emissions,ensuring cleaner production.

Four new Drimaren reactive dyestuffs have beenintroduced by Clariant, namely, Drimaren DarkBlue HF-CD, Drimaren Blue K-RB, DrimarenGolden Yellow HF-CD and Drimaren Red CL-4B.Especially developed for application via cold pad-batch and continuous dyeing, Drimaren Dark BlueHF-CD is also suitable for exhaust dyeing. Thisdyestuff is suitable for use as an element of theDrimaren HF-CD trichromat for medium-darkshades on cellulosic fibres. This dyestuff has highstability to atmospheric pollutants and also goodcolour fastness to light, chlorine and peroxide.

The other blue reactive dyestuff, DrimarenBlue K-RB, is a brilliant blue suitable for royal

blue and violet shades when used in combinationwith Drimaren Red K-4BL or Drimaren Violet K-2RL. Drimaren Blue K-RB and Drimaren RedCL-4B (which is a highly concentrated brilliantred dyestuff) are both suitable for allcombinations with Drimaren HF/HF-CDelements and are applicable by cold pad batch,continuous and exhaust application methods.Drimaren Red CL-4B can be used as atrichromatic element for economicalcombinations such as Drimaren Yellow CL-2R,Drimaren Aquamarine HF-CD and DrimarenDark Blue HF-CD. Drimaren Golden Yellow HF-CD (Clariant) is a very highly-concentrateddyestuff that is suitable for all tones. It exhibitscolour fastness properties and is a main trichromatelement in the Drimaren HF-CD range. DrimarenGolden Yellow HF-CD can be applied via semi-continuous, continuous and exhaust methodsproviding a good dyeing performance. ❑

DYES & CHEMICALS


Global competitiveness in textile dyeing, printing and finishing is highly dependent upon the economics of textile

wet processing, machine utilisation and productivity. Embracing new technology is key to future survival and

growth, and innovation in dyes and chemicals is important in this connection

Dye manufacturers have introduced a series of dyestuffs that provide a brilliant colouring to polyamide, wool andtheir blends


L’IMPRESSION TEXTILE

Progrès en sérigraphie et en impression numériquepar Ian Holme

LE SECTEUR DE l’impression sur textile repose encore principalementsur la sérigraphie, notamment sur l’impression en sérigraphie par rotative

pour les longs cycles de production. La technologie mécanique pour lasérigraphie par rotative a été développée à un très haut niveau, mais desdéveloppements technologiques de la sérigraphie actuelle continuent devoir le jour.

Lors du dernier salon ITMA 2011 de Barcelone, Stork Prints (Pays-Bas)a présenté un nouveau type NovaScreen® pour le secteur de la sérigraphiesur textile. Il s’agit en fait d’un ajout à la gamme existante d'écrans Nova quicomprend Nova 135, Nova 165 et Nova 195. Les différences entre ces troistypes d’écran en nickel électroformés sont présentées dans le tableau 1.

Le rapport entre la superficie ouverte/le nombre de mailles et l’épaisseurde l’écran est proche à cause du développement du nickel pendant leprocessus de fabrication de l’écran. Pendant la fabrication de l’écran, lenickel se développe à partir du mandrin, à la fois vers le sommet et vers lescôtés. Ainsi la superficie ouverte diminue avec l’augmentation du nombre demailles et l’épaisseur du filtre.

Stork Prints est un expert de l'électroformage de nickel pour la fabricationd'écrans. Ils ont développé leur technologie de fabrication d'écrans enorientant la croissance du nickel principalement dans la directionsupérieure. Cela permet de conserver une certaine finesse dans la formebarrière de l’écran et d’obtenir des écrans profilés. De cette façon, StorkPrints est parvenu à repousser les limites de la sérigraphie par rotative enmodifiant le rapport entre taille des trous/nombre de mailles et épaisseur del’écran. Il en résulte un nouvel écran Nova, le NovaScreen 195-19%, qui aune superficie ouverte plus grande pour une taille de maille donnée parrapport aux écrans Nova précédents. L'écran Nova 195-19% a uneépaisseur de 115 microns, une taille de trou de 57 microns et unesuperficie ouverte accrue , désormais de 19%.

Stork Prints affirme que la nouvelle conception de ce NovaScreen 195-19% permet de mieux contrôler le transfert de la pâte d'impression sur letissu. Cette conception spécifique de l'écran permet aux flux de pâte detrous adjacents de se rejoindre pour donner une répartition homogène dela pâte sur le tissu. Le NovaScreen 195-19% peut être utilisé pour maintenirla pâte d'impression sur la surface du tissu, comme l’exige l'impressionpigmentaire , en appliquant une faible contrainte de cisaillement à l'intérieurde l'écran. En outre, grâce à un contrôle approprié des paramètresd'impression, il est également possible d'effectuer une impression parpénétration, comme cela est nécessaire pour appliquer des colorantsréactifs .

L'imprimabilité avec le NovaScreen 195 à superficie ouverte de 19% estaméliorée et une moindre pression d'impression est nécessaire pouratteindre une bonne couverture du tissu . Le fait de pouvoir contrôler laformation d'impression à la surface du tissu est un avantage pour

l'impression pigmentaire, car, en évitant la pénétration dans le tissu, on peutobtenir un rendu des couleurs supérieur et un toucher plus doux. Une taillede trou plus large assure qu’en impression réactive, on puisse obtenir unetransvision complète avec un grand volume de pâte. Le NovaScreen 165-19%, qui a une taille de trou de 67 microns contre 52 microns pour leNovaScreen 165-16%, a une superficie ouverte supérieure et peut donnerdes nuances vraiment profondes et des teintes pleines grâce a u grandvolume de pâte appliqué .

Dans un développement séparé, Stork Prints a introduit un autrenouveau type écran, à savoir le modèle RM à mailles aléatoires. Bien quela taille des trous soit de 79 microns, comme dans l'actuel PentaScreen 125de Stork Prints, et que le nombre de trous soit comparable à celui duPentaScreen 125, les formes des trous sont désormais plus profilées. Il enrésulte un écoulement de pâte et une application légèrement plus élevés, cequi se traduit par une amélioration sensible de l’imprimabilité .

Une caractéristique importante du nouvel écran Random Raster(RR125) est la capacité d’éviter les effets de moiré en sérigraphie. Le m oirépeut se produire lorsqu’une structure d’écra en treillis normal et la structurede grille d'une trame en ligne correspondent. Les deux structures régulièresdonnent lieu à des effets d'interférence, ce qui entraîne alors l'apparition d'unnouveau et troisième motif, généralement un effet de moiré souvent observécomme un motif de rayures en diagonale .

Le nouvel écran Random Raster évite les effets de moiré , parce que lestrous ne sont pas disposés en lignes droites comme dans les écransclassiques. Dans l'écran Random Raster, la position de chaque trou estlégèrement décalée, ce qui provoque une perturbation de la régularité,évitant ainsi l'apparition du troisième motif ( moiré). Le nouvel écran RR125de Stork Prints évite également les problèmes de motifs de rosette forméslà où des cercles de points de trame sont disposés autour d'un point central.Cet effet de rosette perturbe les dessins géométriques aléatoires,notamment quand on veut représenter une structure de tissage ou d’écorce. Le débit plus élevé de pâte dans l'écran RR125 se traduit par despoints plus lisses et donne des impressions en demi-teinte plus douces ainsiqu’un renforcement du contraste dans les zones de trames, ce qui accentuel’impression de relief dans les motifs de trame géométriques.

Le secteur de l’impression numérique continue à se développer à un

TEXTILES AFRICAINS ET DU MOYEN ORIENT 3EME EDITION/2012 13

Les encres numériques à sublimation thermique J-Next Subly JXS-65, basées sur lecyan, le magenta, le jaune et le noir absolu, sont idéales pour l'impression

Tableau 1 Détails des NovaScreens® (Stork Prints)Type Épaisseur Superficie Taille des trous

NovaScreen (microns) ouverte (%) (microns)

Nova 135 120 22 % 88Nova 165 115 19 % 67Nova 195 115 16 % 52


L’IMPRESSION TEXTILE

rythme extraordinaire , et les derniers développements exposés dansle hall 7 par des imprimeurs textiles en provenance de l'Inde , du Brésilet de la Turquie ont suscité un vif intérêt à l'ITMA 2011 . Naturellement,la Chine domine tout le marché traditionnel mondial de l’impressiontextile avec environ 28 milliards de mètres-carrés, ce qui représente 30%de la production mondiale. L’Inde (17,5%), les autres pays d’Asie(18,8%), les Amériques (12,9%) et l’Europe, la Russie, la CEI (11,1%). Àl'heure actuelle, le Moyen-Orient et les pays africains ne produisent que9,7 % environ du marché de l'impression textile traditionnelle, et lepassage à l'impression numérique pour exploiter les opportunitésd’impression hors sérigraphie par rotative pourrait s’avérer un choixjudicieux pour de nombreux imprimeurs textiles de ces régions .

Les principaux développements en matière d’impression numérique àjet d’encre reposent sur des têtes d’impression piézo industrielles quirendent possible une vitesse d'impression élevée. En outre, le coût desencres d’impression a baissé, ce qui rend encore plus réalisable unalignement du coût au mètre carré sur celui de la sérigraphie pour lespetits et moyens volumes de production.

Il existe maintenant un certain nombre de têtes d'impression à grandevitesse pour l'impression à jet d'encre des textiles. Parmi les imprimantesnumériques à grande vitesse présentées à l'ITMA 2011, on trouve laVega 600-16 d’ Hangzhou Honghua, la Qualijet K16 de Meccanica, laSérie JP et la Lario de MS Italy, la ReNOIR EVO de Reggiani et laSphene 24 de Stork Prints.

Cependant, il existe aussi beaucoup d'autres têtes d'impressiondisponibles sur d'autres imprimantes numériques à grande vitesse. Onpeut citer notamment la Kappa Durst 180 qui utilise la tête Gen 4 deRicoh, la Nassenger Pro 1000 (tête KM 1024 ) de Konica Minolta, laMonna Lisa EVO (tête DX5 d’ Epson) de Robustelli et la ZimmerColaris (tête 508GS de Seiko). Xennia Technologies a aussi sesimprimantes Osiris et Emerald, tandis que Mimaki a sa machine conceptTX 600-1800 .

Ces nouvelles machines d'impression numérique s'appuient surune technologie de tête d'impression de pointe couplée à l'évolution desformulations d'encre pour contrôler le point produit. Pour des vitessesélevées d'impression numérique, la fréquence de tir des têtes à jetd'encre doit être élevée. Cela a conduit à des modifications au niveau dela formulation des encres, car les encres de nouvelle génération ontdésormais une viscosité supérieure. Depuis peu, la viscosité des encresest passé de 3 à 5 mPas à 7 à 15 mPas. Cette augmentation de laviscosité de l'encre a été obtenue par l'ajout de glycols pour atteindre10 à 15 mPas mais a eu un effet secondaire important . Essentiellement,les quantités relatives de colorants dans la formulation des encres ont étéréduites, avec un impact négatif sur la qualité d'impression. On assistedonc à une diminution de l’intensité des couleurs des images, associée àun comportement médiocre du séchage des encres dans lessubstrats du fait de la forte teneur en glycol .

Pour pallier ces inconvénients, Sawgrass Technologies adéveloppé et breveté de nouvelles encres à base d'eau pour lesconditions de vitesse élevée de l'impression à jet d'encre. Les encresSawgrass commercialisées sous la marque RMI (Rheological ModifiedInks) assurent une impression numérique à grande vitesse à desfréquences de tir extrêmes, offrant une intensité remarquable descouleurs et un séchage contrôlé des encres dans les substrats. Ceci aété obtenu en intégrant différentes familles chimiques baptisées RM quisont compatibles avec les encres d'origine et qui changent lecomportement rhéologique des encres en conditions de cisaillementélevé .

Des formulations d'encre courantes présentent une rhéologienewtonienne, la viscosité restant constante quelle que soit la vitesse decisaillement . En revanche, les encres RM de Sawgrass Technologies ontun comportement pseudoplastique non newtonien. Ainsi, la viscosité del'encre diminue avec l'augmentation du taux de cisaillement; c’est ce

que l’on appelle l'effet pseudoplastique. Du fait de ce phénomène, l'encreliquide RMI forme des couches cylindriques coaxiales en conditions decisaillement élevé, par exemple sous tir à haute fréquence du jet d'encre.De cette façon, on obtient une plus grande capacité de contrôle de laformation des points .

Les encres à l'eau RMI innovantes de Sawgrass Technologiescontiennent généralement de 20 à 40 % de moins de glycols et jusqu'à80% de plus de colorants que les encres actuelles. On obtient ainsi unequalité d'impression améliorée en termes d'intensité des couleurs et denetteté, tandis que le comportement de séchage amélioré permetd'augmenter la vitesse d'impression et facilite l'opération d'impressiondans sa globalité .

Jaysynth (Inde) a présenté des encres acides à moyenne et hauteviscosité DIGITEX ainsi que des encres pigmentaires pour l’impressionen grand format . Leurs nouvelles encres CMYK + pigmentairesblanches à faible et haute viscosité pour l’impression DTG (directe survêtement) ont été lancées lors du récent salon FESPA Digital deHambourg, en Allemagne.

J-Teck 3 Srl a présenté ses nouvelles encres J-Next Subly JXS-65 quisont considérées comme une gamme d'encres numériques deconception nouvelle, qui offrent une plus grande stabilité de la moléculed'encre. Ces nouvelles encres sont réputées capables de répondre auxexigences de configuration de toutes les imprimantes piézo utilisées pourla sublimation thermique. Les encres numériques à sublimationthermique J-Next Subly JXS-65, basées sur le cyan, le magenta, le jauneet le noir absolu, sont idéales pour l'impression sur tout type de papiercouché en vue d’ un transfert ultérieur sur des tissus de polyester et depolyester mélangé pour des applications telles que vêtements desport, drapeaux et bannières .

MS Italy et Stork Prints ont récemment annoncé un accord de co-opération pour le développement et la production de systèmesnumériques d'impression à jet d'encre. Ainsi, Stork représentera lesmachines MS au niveau international, y compris les machines de la sérieJP et les machines Lario de MS, tout en commercialisant ses propresmachines à production élevée, dont la S phene Stork .

Stork Prints a développé la gamme d'encres Quasar pour lamachine LARIO de MS qui peut imprimer à une vitesse de 20 à 30mètres linéaires par minute. Les encres réactives et acides de Quasarsont basées sur la propre technologie d’impression numérique à un seulpassage de Stork développée pour la machine DSI et qui utilise destechniques brevetées pour empêcher la formation de rayures. L’encreReAcid de Quasar est actuellement utilisée sur la première machineprototype LARIO de MS qui a été installée dans une imprimerie desérigraphie de Côme, exploitée par Tintseka Ink. Stork a égalementélargi sa gamme d'encres acides Nubula pour têtes d'impressionKyocera en introduisant une nouvelle encre réactive Deep Black quiserait plus efficace que l'encre acide classique. La gamme d’encresNebula de Stork est compatible avec l'imprimante numérique Sphenede Stork ainsi qu'avec les machines ReNOIR de Reggiani , et les sériesMS JP6 et MS JPK . ❑

14 TEXTILES AFRICAINS ET DU MOYEN ORIENT 3EME EDITION/2012

Stork Prints a développé la gammed'encres Quasar pour la machineLARIO de MS


THE THIRD EDITION of ITMA ASIA +CITME 2012, the region’s leading textile

machinery exhibition, met with a tremendoussuccess with a record number of visitors andexhibitors participating in the event. The show washeld at Shanghai New International Expo Centre(SNIEC) from 12 to 16 June 2012.

Despite the difficult global economic climate,the exhibition registered 92,000 visitors from 94countries over five days, up 12 per cent from the2010 show. Over 20 per cent of the visitors camefrom outside of China.

Following the tradition of ITMA and ITMAASIA exhibitions, only manufacturers of textilemachinery and accessories were qualified to takepart in the show.

Of the overseas visitors, India led the pack,reflecting the rapid growth of its textile industry.Following closely were trade visitors from Japan,Indonesia, Iran and Pakistan.

The combined show was put up by CEMATEXand its Chinese partners — the Sub-Council ofTextile Industry, CCPIT (CCPIT-Tex), China TextileMachinery Association (CTMA) and ChinaInternational Exhibition Centre Group Corporation(CIEC).

Stephen Combes, president of CEMATEX, said,“We are delighted with the response. The hugeturnout of visitors has demonstrated that buyers inthe region still remain upbeat about the potential ofthe Asian textile market. It also reaffirms thereputation of ITMA ASIA + CITME as the mosteffective business platform in China for the industry.

He added, “The opportunities presented byChina’s market remain an attraction for machinerymanufacturers. We are glad to see many leadingtextile manufacturers gathered at the show with awide range of textile machinery and solutions. Weare overjoyed to see that ITMA ASIA + CITME hasremained an important and effective platform for

them to reach out to the vibrant Asian market,especially the enormous Chinese market.”

The show attracted 1,283 exhibitors from 28countries and economies who presented their latesttextile machinery and related technology.

For many exhibitors, the exhibition was aneffective platform to have face-to-face meetings andto network with industry players from the region.

An exhibitor at the show, Fritz Mayer, thepresident of Karl Mayer TextilmaschinenfabrikGmbH, said, “We benefited greatly from ourparticipation at ITMA ASIA + CITME as it had atargeted audience and enabled us to feel the pulse ofthe industry. Most of the visitors are serious buyersand we are extremely happy with the businessopportunities gained from this show.”

Ye Maoxin, vice president of China Hi-TechGroup Co, Ltd said, “We are very satisfied with ourparticipation in the exhibition, and the efforts madeby the organisers to bring in quality visitors. Many

ITMA ASIA 2012

The exhibition registered 92,000 visitorsfrom 94 countries over five days, up 12 percent from the 2010 show (Images: ITMA Asia+ CITME 2012)

ITMA Asia 2012 seesoverwhelming responseDespite the global economic slowdown, the mega textile expo hosted in China was seen brimming withenthusiastic visitors and exhibitors



of the local and overseas visitors were seriousbuyers. Hence, we are pleased to continue tosupport future editions of the combined show.”

Delighted with the response to the ITMA ASIA+ CITME series, the showowners have announcedthat the collaboration will continue for the next twoeditions. Beijing Textile Machinery InternationalExhibition Co. Ltd and MP International Pte Ltdhave also been re-appointed as organiser and co-organiser, respectively of the next two shows.

Wang Shutian, president of CTMA, said, “ITMAASIA + CITME is a vital event in the calendar oftextile machinery shows and we are very happy tocontinue to present the best technologies from botheast and west to Asian buyers.”

Rieter’s ripplesThe Rieter exhibition stand A10 in Hall W2 saw anoverwhelming visitor turnout from across theworld. The customers enjoyed the comfort of beinggiven competent advice on spinning systems at theReiter stand.

The visitors showed a lot of interest in the new E80 comber, the four end spinning systems and theirareas of application. The machine’s combing area isenlarged by 43 per cent. This achieves flexibilitywith regard to excellent yarn quality, higherproduction and additional savings with comber noil.The economical G 32 ring spinning machine alsogenerated great interest amongst the visitors.

Stäubli’s successStäubli, a leading manufacturer of high-speed textilemachinery, displayed its innovative products andservice solutions at the ITMA Asia + CITMEexhibition in Shanghai. The products featured:

Active warp control systems: Innovative shedforming technologies with Jacquard machines,

high-speed dobbies and cam motions as well asautomatic drawing-in machines and warp tyingsystems.

Active weft control systems: Magic weftpatterning solutions on heavy-duty weavingmachines.

Active electronics control: Under the brandname DEIMO, the Stäubli Group also offeredelectronic controllers for textile machinery.

The Stäubli exhibition booth was agog withactivity and enjoyed a positive feedback fromcustomers around the globe.

The solutions for active warp, weft andelectronics control were designed for meetingmarket needs and help end users streamline their

operations using automated machinery andtechnology to maintain repeatability andreproducibility at the highest quality and lowest cost.

Karl Mayer’s innovationOnce again, KARL MAYER exhibited at ITMAAsia + CITME as one of the main technicalpioneers in the field of warp knitting machines andwarp preparation machines.

The visitors were treated to an innovativemachine show at the company’s stand, B 10 in hallE 5. Two high-speed warp knitting machines andtwo lace machines with new performance featuresin terms of efficiency and flexibility were thehighlights at the stall.

A Wefttronic® with a new performancedemonstrated its capabilities for producingtechnical textiles. This raschel machine with parallelweft insertion has a working width of 213" andcomplements the widths of 268", 176" and 138" thathas been available until now.

For the warp preparation sector, KARL MAYERshowcased its Nov-O-Matic 2 with Isotens creel.This automatic sectional warping machine is settingnew standards in quality and productivity forproducing long production warps as well as forprocessing batches with short running lengths.

Oerlikon’s nextgen machinesOerlikon showcased some of the best automationtechnologies at the ITMA Asia + CITME. The newZinserRing 71 and ZinserImpact 71 generation ofmachines presented at the show promised deliveryof any desired yarn at a guaranteed quality and at anunrivalled price-performance relationship.

The ZinserImpact 71 was presented tocustomers for the first time at the show. Thecompact spinning machine was on display incombination with the Autoconer X5 at the firm’sexhibition booth at the show. ❑

ITMA ASIA 2012

The show attracted 1,283 exhibitors from 28 countries and economies who presented their latest textile machinery andrelated technology


Over 20 per cent of the visitors at theshow came from outside China


OLYMPICS 2012’S IMPACT on design andtechnology used in sportswear has been

tremendous. All major sportswear brands launchedcustom designed products to ensure the efficiencyof sportspersons was enhanced and comfort andstyle was maintained. The innovations are boundto have a lasting effect on the make of sportswearin times to come.

SwimwearSpeedo launched a new high-tech swimwearcollection for the 2012 Olympics. While suits, capsand goggles were conventionally designed, thebrand ensured that the products were engineered ina way that all three elements generated a unifiedsystem that secured FINA (FédérationInternationale de Natation) approval.

Speedo claims its combined FASTSKIN3Racing System will enhance both comfort andhydrodynamic efficiency by a full body passive dragreduction of up to 16.6 per cent, an 11 per centimprovement in swimmers’ oxygen economyenabling them to swim stronger for longer, andachieve a 5.2 per cent reduction in body active drag.

The Super Elite suit of Speedo incorporatesHydro K-Zone 3D fabric with multi-directionalstretch characteristics to give the swimmer ease andfreedom of movement. The flat surface structurehelps deliver a 2.59 per cent reduction in skinfriction drag. This is complemented by Pulse-Flexfabric used on the shoulders and panels, whichallowes high-stretch in one direction to allowfreedom of movement in key areas. The fabricconstruction of Pulse-Flex delivers a two per centdecrease in skin friction drag while the durable C6water repellent finish minimises water absorption.

Incorporated within the Hydro-K Zone 3D fabricis Investa’s premium swimwear fibre, Xtra LifeLYCRA®, which is ten times more resistant tochlorine than standard elastane. Varying decitexesare knitted throughout the fabric to create graduated

compression across different body zones.A ‘Body Stability Web’ constant seam

framework allows greater stability, improvingstroke and enhancing the effectiveness of starts and

turns by up to three per cent, while an IQ FIT ‘snapback’ waistband on the male jammer eliminates theneed for drawstrings and ensured a flatter, moreefficient profile.

Niki Tait takes a look at high-tech sports clothing developed by big brands acrossthe world for Olympics


APPARELAfrica and the Middle East

Niki Pro TurboSpeed suit 2

Olympics 2012 breathes innovation into sportswear

S04 AFTEX 3 2012 Apparel_Layout 1 07/09/2012 11:57 Page 17

For female suits, Speedo developed a uniquearmhole entry system making it easier to put onwhile maintaining the best possible fit andmaximum fabric coverage, optimising the suit’shydrodynamic properties.

The new racing system was developedfollowing extensive research and developmentby Speedo’s own in-house Aqualab facility,working with elite level athletes and coaches,sports scientists, global hydrodynamics expertsand optical engineers around the world. Therewere three levels of technology, each tailored tothe needs of swimmers of differing abilities:SUPER ELITE for professional athletes; ELITEfor advanced competitors; and PRO forintermediate swimmers.

Caps and gogglesThe Speedo FASTSKIN3 Cap is the world’s firstto feature IQ Fit Cap Profile, designed usingaccurate three dimensional head mapping data.Made to fit head and face contours exactly, itpromises optimum comfort, improved hydrodynamicperformance and ease of use. When combined withthe Speedo FASTSKIN3 Super Elite Goggles, fullbody drag force is reduced by 5.7 per cent.

The brand also designed a special hairmanagement system for swimmers with long hair.The Speedo Hair Management System, a bondedfabric cap with a non-slip edge is structured to holdand shape longer hair to fill the gap at the curve ofthe neck so that it enhances the swimming formand improved hydrodynamics.

Also designed utilising 3D head scanning data,the FASTSKIN3 Super Elite Goggles incorporatesa unique IQ FIT seal and strap and dive streamouter profile that improves the contours of theswimmer’s head. This helps reduce localised forceby up to 63.4 per cent, minimising the risk ofgoggle movement during a swim. The goggles alsofeature a hydroscopic lens that offers 180 peripheral vision.

Light weight sportswearNike announced a series of cutting-edge,lightweight performance innovations, designedfor the track, basketball court and other sports,including Nike Flyknit and Nike ProTurboSpeed uniforms.

Nike’s Project Swift has evolved and refinedits Nike AeroSwift technology over the past 12years, incorporating more than 1,000 hours ofwind tunnel testing, with the aim of maximisingvelocity for elite athletes. As a result, the newNike Pro TurboSpeed suit, which is made withapproximately 82 per cent recycled polyesterfabric, using an average of 13 recycled plasticbottles per suit, enables an athlete to run 0.023seconds faster. During 2012, the new suit will beused by athletes from the USA, Russia,Germany, and China for international teamcompetitions and by NIKE-sponsored athletes inindividual competition.

Features include:• Zoned Aerodynamics: NIKE has used a similar

principle to golf ball’s dimples, which aredesigned to help the ball go farther and faster, tohelp reduce the aerodynamic drag of the athlete.Wind tunnel data has been used to strategicallyplace patterns and surface architectures on keyareas of the athlete’s form to assist aerodynamicdrag reduction.

• Zero Distraction: The interior surface of NikePro TurboSpeed has been made as smooth, evenand uninterrupted as possible. Elastics and edgefinishes on the outside of the garment and aninnovative waistband have been used toeliminate bulkiness and abrasions.

• Superior Lightweight Performance:Lightweight materials have been combined withdesign principals of reduction andsimplification to create lighter suits, therebyhelping increase overall speed.

Specific products were developed for distance,sprint, and field events, each offering a differentdegree of support and adjustability. Theyincorporate Dri-FIT moisture management whilestrategic colour blocking is used to help visuallycapture movement.

Sports shoesTo accompany the new sports suit, a range ofspecially-engineered shoes were developed forspecific sports events. One of these is the NikeZoom Superfly R4 which is equipped withdynamic super strong Flywire cables that movewith the foot, offering support and comfort whileminimising weight and bulk.

The cables individually wrap around the footand connect to the laces for a more personalised fitand improved lockdown. An ace-span liner hasbeen designed to give a smooth seamless interiorfor comfort against the skin, while an ultra-thinTPU film overlays provide additional support inkey areas while maintaining the shoe’s super-lightweight feel.

The rigid Pebax® plate with eight spikereceptacles provide maximum power and tractionwhilst a thin phylon midsole wedge offersimproved impact cushioning while keeping thespike light and low to the ground.

The inspiration for Nike Flyknit, another Nike

HIGH-TECH SPORTSWEAR

The Speedo FASTSKIN 3 racing system


Christian Moreau gymnastic wear


innovation, was born from repeated runnerfeedback. The brand wanted to develop a shoe withthe qualities of a sock with a snug fit that goesvirtually unnoticed to the wearer. However, all thefeatures that make a sock desirable have proven tomake them a bad choice for a running upper.Inherently dynamic materials like yarn tend tohave no structure or durability.

Four-years of research on micro-engineeringstatic properties into pliable materials with teamsof programmers, engineers and designers wereneeded to create the proprietary technologyrequired to create a new knit upper. The next stepswere to map out precisely where the specific yarnand knit structures were needed to incorporatesupport, flexibility and breathability into one layer.

The result was a precision fit, lightweightand virtually seamless upper, engineered in onepiece and one layer. With all the structure andsupport knitted in, the Nike Flyknit Racer’supper and tongue weighes only 34 gm and a

complete size 9 shoe weighes just 160 gm,making it 19 per cent lighter than the NikeZoom Streak 3, a shoe worn by first, second andthird place athletes in the men’s marathon at the2011 World Championships.

The Nike Flyknit Racer was worn by runnersfrom Kenya, Great Britain, Russia and the US inthis spring’s marathons and the Olympics, whilethe Nike Flyknit Trainer+, developed as aneveryday running shoe, weighing a total of 218 gm(7.7 ounces), will bring the weight and fit benefitsof Nike Flyknit to runners of all levels.

Another knitted running shoe was introducedby Adidas. The adiZero Primeknit shoe launchedfor Olympics is the brand’s first one-piece upperperformance runner. It used a new seamlessengineering technology making the complexproduct beautifully simple.

The company said, “adiZero Primeknitharnesses groundbreaking technology, the likes ofwhich have never been seen before. Seamless

engineering technology has gone into the makingof the product which was launched for the 2012Olympic Games.”

Software for sportswearSeveral high-tech software were used in the

making of the performance-enhancingsportswears. Tukatech’s TUKA3D is easy to use,

three-dimensional CAD software which helped indeveloping sportswear and active wear forcompanies like Dick’s Sporting Goods, Academy,Reebok, Nike and others. It is used to createcustom-fit models, build life-like digital clothingsamples, and adjust these based on virtual fit.

Tuka3D software takes a digital (CAD)pattern and a set of fabric values such as stretch,weight, etc. and creates a digital sample of thegarment, draped on a 3D virtual fit model, usingthe latest in cloth simulation technology. Usersof Tuka3D provide the software with the pattern,the type of fabric, the measurements and shapeof the fit model, and the software will accuratelycreate the sample.

TUKA3D includes an animation capabilitywhich can work for all kinds of sports animationsincluding soccer, jogging, cycling, ice skating andseveral other sports, to assist its customers invisualisation and fit analysis for their active wear.It can show a sample-in-motion that allows avirtual review of the design, fit, athletic movementand artwork placement in advance of the actualgarment being cut and sewn.

TUKA3D can create many virtual samples inmuch less time than it would take to physicallymake and deliver an actual garment. It alsoprovides a multitude of data about a garmentunavailable elsewhere. Garments can be viewedfrom multiple angles using lighting effects. Prints,patterns, and logos can be accurately and easilyapplied. Digital 2D patterns together with a set offabric values can be converted into realistic 3Dsamples that accurately simulate the weight,stretch, colour and other values of any fabric.Animation enables drape and movement of agarment to be seen. Images and videos can beshared with customers and clients before anyphysical sample is made.

Special features are included in the TUKAcadsoftware which make it particularly useful formaking patterns used to create the performanceand warm up apparel used by Olympic athletes.These include the “scale and shrink” function thatallows compression apparel manufacturers toautomatically adjust patterns to incorporate stretchpercentages of performance fabrications. Thesoftware allows for “made-to-measure” custom fitadjustments to be made to patterns through half-size grading. Artwork that needs to be seen on thefinished apparel and engineered for production onTC2 KX-16 3D Body Scanner


Nike Flyknit racer



pattern cutwork pieces can be copied directly tothe digital pattern pieces for logo placements,numbering, country flags, etc.

Another software that has been extensivelyused for sportswear manufacturing and design isLectra’s CAD software. Christian Moreau is a bigpropagator of the software. Since 1984, thecompany has been creating fashionable, high-quality sportswear for competitive gymnastsincluding the 2012 Olympic teams from Romania,Ukraine, and Germany.

Each year, the company produces and sellsmore than 130,000 leotards and other gymnasticsclothing and accessories worldwide, usually ondemand, and its unique patterns and styling are keyto its success.

However, increasing the complexity of theproducts caused development and productionchallenges for the company. Converting so manyimaginative sketches into usable, practical patternsin a wide range of sizes required not only atalented patternmaker, but also a powerfultechnology solution.

To address many of these problems the company

now use Lectra’s CAD software. A useful product ofthe company is Modaris, Lectra’s pattern-makingand grading solution, which has the ability to helppattern-makers to assign interdependency to specificpattern pieces, and create multiple gradesautomatically from previously graded basic blocksduring development. This eliminates repetitive tasks,guarantees accuracy even after patternmodifications, and results in high-quality patterns inrecord time, even for complex leotard designs whichmay contain ten or more pieces each, includingappliquéd motifs which also need to be graded.

DiaminoFashion Expert, Lectra’s marker-making solution, provides fast and easy interactivenesting as well as fully automated markersrespecting garment and fabric constraints, such asthose presented by multidirectional stretch velours.Using this system the company is currentlyachieving a 78 per cent fabric utilisation even withits unusual shapes and small runs, a figure which iscontinuing to improve. The cutting schedule hasalso improved with the system used in automaticmode, as staff are freed up to do other work.

One more use of technology in making of thehigh-tech sportswear that deserves a mention is the

[TC] ² KX-16 body scanner. It has the capability ofscanning a body in seconds and rapidly producinga true-to-scale 3D body model. It was used forscanning Speedo’s Olympic swim team members.This fifth generation 3D body scanner, with 20sq.ft. footprint and 16 sensor design, is twentytimes cheaper and ten times smaller than TC2’sfirst body scanner launched in 1997. Theplacement of sensors around the body at fourspecific heights and at four specific angles wasfirst developed with the NX-16 scanner,predecessor to the KX-16. The softwarefunctionality includes:• Automatic body measurements at over 400

unique points• Manual measurement software features• Automatic 3D digital avatar creation from the

scan including face texturing from a photo• Virtual Fashion features to allow virtual try-on

of garments within seconds• Body shape and body composition (body fat)

analysis tools• Fully private scan mode with computer voice

instructions and self-scan control button• Colour scan data• Low sensitivity to room light or sharp colour

contrasts on the scan subjects• A yield of more than two million data points at

full body resolution.

The software analyses body size, shape, andfeatures of tens of thousands of individuals sothat the most accurate and complete body scanscould be taken of any subject. The 3D bodyscanners have been used for human body surveysover the past twenty years, but the NX-16 andKX-16 scanners are the first scanners designedusing data from those same surveys. The smallfootprint is crucial with the new depth sensors asthe data quality is excellent close to the body, butis not as good further away. ❑


3D sports annimationfrom Tukatech


TUKA3D can create manyvirtual samples in much

less time than it would taketo physically make and

deliver an actual garment. Italso provides a multitude of

data about a garment unavailable elsewhere


TEXTILE NEWS


GE HAS ANNOUNCED an expansion of its eVentfabrics collection with the introduction of eVentDVL waterproof fabric, a new textile technologyand fabric line that is engineered for lightweight,high-performance rainwear for outdoor andaerobic activities.

eVent DVL (direct venting lite) features theproven air permeable and breathable performance ofthe patented membrane used in all eVent fabrics.

The inaugural collection of eVent DVL fabricincludes lightweight textiles that are ideal formaking unlined garments for light duty use inactivities such as hiking, climbing, cycling, runningand cross-country skiing.

Its breathable nature makes eVent DVL suitablefor high-energy output sports where excess bodyheat and moisture is readily generated and there isless demand for the durability of heavier weightfabrics. According to the compnay, this new lineexpands and complements the entire eVent fabricscollection used in apparel, sports gear and footwearby a number of companies globally.

“eVent DVL fills the market’s continuingdemand for light waterproof breathable fabrics,”said Glenn Crowther, product line leader for eVentfabrics. “eVent DVL waterproof fabric offers theultimate combination in rainwear in the form of it’sair permeability, breathability and 100 per centwaterproof nature. We believe it is best in class by

all measures for activities and seasons that call forlightweight, packable rainwear,” added Crowther.

The membrane technology, with its millions oftiny pores, allows “direct venting” of the body’s heatand moisture through the fabric, yet is waterprooffrom the outside. The fabric’s membrane is

laminated to lightweight face fabrics for use injackets, pants and other products.

The technology in eVent DVL waterprooffabric improves upon the performance of whatare commonly called 2.5-layer fabrics,according to Crowther.

“eVent DVL waterproof fabric stands alone inthis class of fabrics because it does not use apolyurethane coating to protect the membrane fromcontamination,” explained Crowther.

“Polyurethane, applied as a coating, clogsthe pores of the membrane and impedesairflow. In eVent fabrics, by comparison, theindividual fibrils forming the membrane aretreated so the pores remain open — or airpermeable — and heat and moisture can passthrough directly. That is GE’s Direct Ventingtechnology,” added he.

“Originally developed in the 1990s for high-efficiency industrial air filtration, GE’s ventingmembrane technology was found to be highlyeffective in waterproof fabrics for apparel —letting sweat out but keeping rain and elementsat bay — and eVent fabrics were launched to themarketplace in 1999,” said a statement from GE.

The patented technology that protects themembrane and retains its porous air permeablestructure is found only in eVent fabrics and now inthe new eVent DVL waterproof fabric.

GE plans to expand eVent DVL waterproof technology

The new line complements the entire eVent fabrics collection used in apparel, sports gear and footwear by a number of companies

DENIM MANUFACTURING WORLDWIDE isheaded for a complete change with introductionof a ‘greener chemistry’ process described at the16th annual Green Chemistry & EngineeringConference held in Washington.

The process, called Advanced Denim, canproduce a pair of jeans using up to 92 per cent lesswater and up to 30 per cent less energy thanconventional denim manufacturing methods,according to Miguel Sanchez, a textile engineer atClariant, a company based in Muttenz (nearBasel), Switzerland, that developed AdvancedDenim.

In addition, it generates up to 87 per pent lesscotton waste, which is often burned, addingcarbon dioxide and other greenhouse gases tothe atmosphere.

Unlike conventional denim productionmethods, which require up to 15 dyeing vats andan array of potentially harmful chemicals,Advanced Denim uses just one vat and a newgeneration of eco-advanced, concentrated, liquidsulfur dyes that require only a single, sugar-basedreducing agent. All other production steps areeliminated, according to Sanchez.

If just 25 per cent of the world’s denim jeanswere dyed with this technology, Sanchez said, itwould save enough water to cover the needs of 1.7

million people every year. That’s equivalent toabout 2.5 billion gallons of water every year. Italso would forestall the release of 8.3 million cum of wastewater, save up to 220 million kW hoursof electricity and eliminate the release of acorresponding amount of carbon dioxideemissions into the atmosphere annually.

“Advanced Denim wants to go beyond thetechnologies that are today considered standardfor obtaining denim material,” Sanchez said.

“We offer new possibilities for enlarging thenumber of tones and effects currently achievable,make production more simple and efficient, and allthis with the minimal use of resources,” he added.

Denim manufacturing goes green with Advanced Denim technology

Advanced Denim can produce a pair of jeans using up to 92 per cent less water and up to 30 per cent less energy thanconventional denim manufacturing methods


TEXTILE NEWS


FUNCTIONALISED TEXTILES FOR securitypersonnel to wear at workplace have a lot more tooffer than uniform appearance, comfort andsuitability for harsh environment conditions.

Protection from harmful radiations, dirt, odourand other harmful elements are often integratedinto the textiles for safety and hygiene.

Textiles with UV radiation protectionClothing with integrated sun protection is anexample for textiles designed to keep harmful UVradiation away. The textile fibres contain titaniumdioxide which is also used in sun protectioncreams, providing the wearer with a particularlyhigh level of UV protection. Because clothingcovers most of the body, it is predestined forprotection from harmful UV radiation.

Different measurement methods exist fordetermining the UV protection factor UPF (UltraViolet Protection Factor) which corresponds tothe sun protection factor in creams. Themeasurements, according to UV Standard 801,are particularly realistic as they take into accountfactors such as the change in UV protection oftextiles through wearing and cleaning.

Textiles with dirt and odour protectionNature's so-called lotus effect has been known forsome time. Dirt on the leaves of the lotus plantcan easily be washed off with water.The basic principle has also been used for textilesfor some time. Until now, the surfaces of thematerials were additionally finished withhydrophobic (water-repellent) micro and nanostructures. Researchers have now developed thelotus effect further: The nano particles are directlyincorporated during production of the fibre,making the dirt-repellent effect resistant tointensive wear.

Another option for the use of nano particlesis to embed silver into materials. Theantimicrobial effect of silver has been known forcenturies; one of its uses is water purification. Itcan be embedded into the fibres or applied byvapour-depositing.

Textiles for (in)visibilityThe functionalisation of textiles can achievemany other remarkable properties. An examplefrom textile research is the textile materialwhich effectively shields infrared radiation(IR) and is intended for use in the uniforms ofarmed forces.

Until now, IR-absorbing vat dyes incamouflage print ensured that the wearers weremostly “invisible” to the CCD sensors (charge-coupled device – a light sensitive electroniccomponent) of night vision devices.

The absorption capacity of the dye particlesquickly reaches its limits, though. Dotation(embedding) or coating of chemical fibres withindium tin oxide nano particles (ITO) allowssignificantly more efficient absorption of heatradiation, achieving a higher shielding effectthan conventional camouflage prints.

ITOs are transparent semiconductors whichare also used in touch screens for smartphones.The challenge for many researchers was to fusethe ITO particles with the textiles in a way thatdoes not negatively affect their other propertiessuch as the physiological comfort.

Furthermore, it has to be ensured that thetextile finish is resistant to washing, scrubbingand weathering.

High-tech textiles for security personnel

ITALIAN TEXTILE MACHINERY has set a benchmarkin global research for innovative technologies designed toreduce textile production costs and stop harmful impacton environment.

The ACIMIT green label certification was introducedby the Association of Italian Textile MachineryManufacturers (ACIMIT) at the ITMA ASIA + CITME2012, as part of its “Sustainable Technologies” project.

The certification aims at identifying the energy andenvironmental performances of textile machinery. Inparticular, it points out the quantity of equivalent emissionsof carbon dioxide (Carbon Footprint - CFP) producedduring a machine’s operation.

Subsequently, the association chose RINA, aninternational certification body, to define and validate theprocess for issuing the ACIMIT green label.

Manufacturers participating in the “SustainableTechnologies” project are in fact obliged to adhere toimplementation measures and operating instructions on themeasurement of energy and environmental performancesdeclared by the green label.

RINA does not just limit itself to defining regulatorymeasures, since it also inspects and verifies their correctapplication, thus providing a guarantee of the accuracy of theperformance indicators reported on the ACIMIT green label.

Each year, a sampling of 20 per cent of all themachinery producers participating in the project will besubjected to a monitoring procedure by RINA, which willcontrol procedures for the measurement of parameters andthe operating conditions of machines on which the greenlabel is being affixed.

The sampling inspection by RINA of green labels issuedis a guarantee for all green label machinery produced inaccordance with ACIMIT’s own specifications.

This year, RINA has verified green labels at 6machinery manufacturers, out of the 34 which have thus farused this process. On 25 June, RINA released the certificateof conformity for the green label issuing process.

With the green label certification procedure,Italmachinery manufacturers can provide potentialcustomers verifiable information on the performance oftheir machinery.

ACIMIT green label gets RINA acknowledgement

DSM, PRODUCER OFDyneema® fiber, has introducedDM 20, which is designed forproduction of strong ropes thatprovide strength, stiffness anddurability for deepwater mooringropes.

A company official said, “DM20 is an innovative fibre thatredefines the capability of HMPEropes and forms the basis ofDyneema® Max Technology.”

This technology is developed forthe production of deepwatermooring ropes for oil and gasproduction facilities. “These ropesare ideal for all rope applicationsrequiring resistance to permanentloads,” the official added.

DSM introduces fibrefor deepwater moorings

Brother Internationale Industriemachine GmbH................................................ 5

Erhardt+Leimer GmbH......................................................................................11

Industrial Development Corporation ................................................................23

Madeira Garnfabrik ..............................................................................................9

Rieter Machine Works Ltd. ................................................................................24

Vetri Engineers .................................................................................................... 7

AD INDEX


A catalyst to the South African clothing and textiles industryThe South African textile, clothing, leather and footwearmanufacturing sectors are signifi cant employers withinthe South African economy in that they are highly labour-intensive with a low job creation cost when compared toother manufacturing industries.

The IDC’s Textiles Unit (SBU) provides support to a variety of sector enterprises, ranging from clothing and leather goodsmanufacturing, to the production of natural and syntheticfabrics, and the creation of home décor.

As a primary source of development fi nance for the sector,the IDC’s Textiles Unit provides loans and equity fi nance tosector projects and businesses that exhibit economic merit,as well as assists with the turnabout of troubled businessesthat have a clear recovery potential. The focus is on bothworking capital and capital equipment expenditure relatedto start-ups, including the expansion and modernisationof existing businesses. An additional element of supportfor existing sector players is the approved low interest ratefi nancing scheme.

The Unit has a proactive strategy that includes analysis of the entire industry value chain in order to identify projectopportunities; the encouragement of investment incapacity-building activities to support sector sustainability;litlit

the contribution to an enabling environment throughco-funding and co-project development; and the closecooperation with textile sector-specifi c schemes suchas the Development Funds Department (DFD), whichmanages the dti’s Production Incentive Programme(PIP), and the Clothing and Textiles CompetitivenessImprovement Programme (CTCIP) incentive scheme.

The IDC is an integral part of the solution to overcomingthe textile sector challenges. It has adopted an overarchingand enterprising role that seeks to drive industrialdevelopment and nurture sector growth. Key to thisstrategy is the development of regional capacities andcapabilities in textile production, and where necessary,to act as a catalyst in sector consolidation, collaborationand expansion.

The IDC is committed to supporting the development of this vibrant sec enching itself in the clothingsector, thr y clustersand groupings; facilitating link etail sectorand reg ticipating in thegimplementation of C rammes (CSP).ple

Chillibush7273IDC

To apply online for funding of R1 million or more go to www.idc.co.za

Telephone: 086 069 3888Email: [email protected]

AFTEX 3_Layout 1 07/09/2012 12:29 Page 1

Rieter . The Comfort of Competence www.rieter.com

Settle back and relax – thanks to Rieter

Feel at ease and indulge in the comfort of truly tailored support. Our profi cient personnel are at your service – from the very fi rst meeting seamlessly through to operations of your spinning mill plant. Rest assured – Rieter provides all four spinning system technologies and will advise you with competence on the best investment in terms of economy and market impact. Benefi t from our expert services and enjoy the comfort of partnership with Rieter.

The Comfort of Competence

AFTEX 3_Layout 1 07/09/2012 12:30 Page 2

Documents

Africa & Middle East Textiles issue 3 2012