“LUCIAN BLAGA” UNIVERSITY OF SIBIU

ACTA UNIVERSITATIS CIBINIENSIS

Vol. LVIII

Technical series

Sibiu, 2009

LUCIAN BLAGA UNIVERSITY of SIBIU

ACTA UNIVERSITATIS CIBINIENSIS

Vol. LVIII

Technical series

Sibiu, 2009

Editorial Board Textile Technologies Department, Hermann Oberth Faculty of Engineering, Lucian Blaga University of Sibiu, Romania Raluca BRAD Lecturer Ioan NEAGU Professor, PhD. Diana COMAN Associate Professor, PhD. Advisory Board (reviewers) Vasile BLASCU Prof. PhD., Faculty of Textiles and Leather Engineering, Iaşi, Romania Costea BUDULAN Prof. PhD., Faculty of Textiles and Leather Engineering, Iaşi, Romania Ji-Huan HE Prof. PhD., Donghua University, China Jiří MRÁZEK Prof. PhD., Technical University of Liberec, Czeh Republic Radko KOVAR Prof. PhD., Technical University of Liberec, Czeh Republic Crişan POPESCU Prof. PhD., DWI an der RWTH Aachen e.V., Germany Carmen LOGHIN Prof. PhD., Faculty of Textiles and Leather Engineering, Iaşi, Romania ISSN 1583-7149

CONTENTS A Wearable Sensor System for Diagnosis of Heart Abnormalities Georgios PRINIOTAKIS

3

Behaviour of Textiles under High Frequency Martin BÍLEK, Petr TUMAJER

8

Seam Defects Analysis in Jeans Manufacturing Raluca BRAD

14

Comparative Analysis of Different Construction Methods for Toiles for Clothing Articles Anca-Mădălina IRIDON

19

Conductive Polyaniline/Silver/Cotton and Polyaniline/Cotton Composite Fabrics Ayşe Selcen ADAMHASAN, Ayşegül UYGUN, Pablo MONLLOR, M. Ángeles BONET

24

Methode for Creating the Spatial Forms using 3D Bi-cubic Surfaces Mariana DRIŞCU

30

Modification of Textile Surfaces by UV Excimer Laser Irradiation Narcisa VRÎNCEANU, Diana COMAN, Ioan NEAGU

34

New Types of Yarns Used for the Knitting of Hosiery Alina FLOCA

39

Optimization of System Groove-Sinker-Cam Martin BÍLEK, Jiří MRÁZEK, Tarek TOMEH

45

Principles of Transforming the Base Patterns of Children’s Clothing Ioan NEAGU, Diana COMAN

51

Experimental Analysis of the Mechanisms of Sewing Machine Karel PEJCHAR, Jaroslav BERAN, Martin BÍLEK, Pavel NĚMEČEK

55

Research Regarding Textile Articles with Microcapsules and Thermo-Regulating Properties Marius BUTUC, Costea BUDULAN, Mirela BLAGA

61

Research Regarding the Pilling Effect on Fabrics Obtained from Mixed Yarns Milena DINU, Alina FLOCA

67

Study of Seam Strength on Knitted Fabrics Alina FLOCA, Dorin VLAD

72

Study of the Finishing Processes Influence on the Shrinkage of Knitted Fabrics Diana COMAN, Alina FLOCA

78

Sweatshops in the Spotlight Călin DENEŞ, Valentin GRECU

83

Technological Aspects Viewing the Footwear’s Spatial Designing Cornelia IONESCU LUCA

89

The Morphological Changes and Mechanical Properties of the Polyamide 6 (PA6) Fibres Vasile BLAŞCU

94

Washing Behavior of Chitosan-Cotton Fabrics Dyed with Direct Blue 106 Bárbara MICÓ, Pablo MONLLOR, M. Ángeles BONET, Pablo DÍAZ, Ignacio MONTAVA

100

The Polyamide Fibres under UV Radiations Vasile BLAŞCU

103

Wetting Characteristics Improvement of Some Textile Materials by UV Laser Treatment Diana COMAN, Narcisa VRÎNCEANU

108

Cotton Fabric Structure Influence on Microcapsules Deposition Eva BOU, Pablo MONLLOR, M. Ángeles BONET, Pablo DÍAZ, Ignacio MONTAVA, Jaime GISBERT

113

Principle of Device for Manufacture of Non-Woven Textiles Martin KONEČNÝ, Ladislav ŠEVČÍK, Jaroslav HANUŠ, Pavel RYDLO, Martin DIBLÍK

117

Continuous Improvement Methods for Products and Processes in Textile Companies Eugenia VERZEA, Ion VERZEA, Costea BUDULAN

123

Production of Novel Surfaces by Electrospinning Rajkishore NAYAK, Rajiv PADHYE, Lyndon ARNOLD, Saniyat ISLAM

128

Diversifying Drawings For ‘Surface Magic’ Textile Prints Marin FLOREA, Cristian MATRAN

138

The Design Of The Derived Diagonal Weaves Using Weavemaker One Marin FLOREA, Cristian MATRAN

142

A WEARABLE SENSOR SYSTEM FOR DIAGNOSIS OF HEART ABNORMALITIES

Georgios PRINIOTAKIS

Technological Education Institute of Piraeus, Department of Textile Engineering, Athens, Greece

Abstract: The paper presents the design and implementation of wearable sensor system capable of recording heart signals for abnormalities detection. The sensor elements, the acquisition and eventually the microcontroller system are integrated to the textile frame. The sensors are made from latest generation conductive yarns giving excellent wearability and electrical properties as well. In the area of health, there are many cases that it is necessary the continuous monitoring of the patient. In clinical bibliography there are a numerous cases that only after long continuous monitoring vital malfunctions were discovered. For years, measuring life-signs has been limited to what can happen inside a lab, inside a doctor’s office, inside a trainer’s room. More than just being bound to a clinician’s office, it’s been tied to expensive and invasive procedures that unduly affect results. Smart prototype make possible for the wearer’s vita; functions to be monitored in real time. Keywords: Wearable sensor, conductive yarns, smart garment, ECG, on-line monitoring

BEHAVIOUR OF TEXTILES UNDER HIGH FREQUENCY

STRESS

Martin BÍLEK*, Petr TUMAJER**

*Department of Textile Machine Design of Technical University of Liberec, Czech Republic ** Department of Textile Technology of Technical University of Liberec, Czech Republic

Abstract: This paper deals with a theoretic and an experimental analysis of the textile materials mechanical properties from viewpoint of the weaving process. The textile material is a viscoelastic material. The theoretical part this paper includes the description of the various rheologic models. Further, the theoretical part deals with a interaction between the weaving machine beat-up mechanism and the textile material. The experimental part describes the special testing equipment for simulation of the textile materials stress during the weaving process, has been devised in the Weaving Laboratory of Technical University of Liberec. The results of the measurements on this equipment and the results of the theoretical part are confronted in the conclusion of this paper. Keywords: textile materials, deformation, high frequency, rheologic model, weaving, shed opening

SEAM DEFECTS ANALYSIS IN JEANS MANUFACTURING

Raluca BRAD

Lucian Blaga University of Sibiu Abstract: The seam defects category is the most important class of jean defects. The workmanship defects in order to keep the quality process under control must be studied and documented. Our paper has categorized and analyzed the jeans seam defects. The presented results can be extrapolated to other garments process control in order to increase the product quality. Keywords: quality assurance, seam defects, jean manufacturing process

COMPARATIVE ANALYSIS OF DIFFERENT CONSTRUCTION METHODS FOR TOILES

FOR CLOTHING ARTICLES

Anca-Mădălina IRIDON

Textile Technology Department, „Lucian Blaga” University of Sibiu, Romania

Abstract: The present paper presents a comparative analysis of different construction methods for toiles for the product “men’s coat” for the age group 20-29 years, represented both in table form and graphically. Keywords: anthropometry, textile, clothing, design method

CONDUCTIVE POLYANILINE/SILVER/COTTON AND POLYANILINE/COTTON COMPOSITE FABRICS

Ayşe Selcen ADAMHASAN1, Ayşegül UYGUN2, Pablo MONLLOR3, M. Ángeles BONET3

1Faculty of Engineering and Architecture, Department of Textile Engineering, University of Suleyman Demirel, Isparta/Turkey

2Faculty of Arts and Sciences, Department of Chemistry,Universıty of Suleyman Demirel, Isparta/Turkey

3Technological University of Valencia, Textile and Paper Department, Alcoy/Spain

Abstract: Conductive polyaniline (PANI)/silver/cotton and PANI/cotton composite fabrics were prepared by in-situ chemical polymerization method using (NH4)2S2O8 as oxidant, aqueous HNO3/AgNO3 and 1 M HCl solutions as synthesis media, respectively. Properties of composite fabrics were investigated by washing and rubbing tests acording to ISO standarts. Surface morphologies of (PANI)/silver/cotton and PANI/cotton the composite fabrics were observed using scanning electron microscopy (SEM). Electrical resistance value of the PANI/cotton composite fabrics was determined as 15x103 ohm/cm. Also electrical resistance value of the PANI/cotton/AgNO3 composite fabrics was determined as 15x105 ohm/cm. The resistance values of the composite fabrics were investigated with changing aniline ratio. Keywords: conductive fabrics, polyaniline, silver, chemical polymerization

METHODE FOR CREATING THE SPATIAL FORMS USING 3D BI-CUBIC SURFACES

Mariana DRIŞCU

Faculty of Textile, Leather and Industrial Management, "Gh.Asachi" Technical University, Iaşi

Abstract: In the paper is presented the designed methodology of the three-dimensional forms, individual to the footwear product. In this way, are used the most developed shape’s design methods in the assisted graphic, methods used in creating a CAD 3D system. Keywords: footwear, shape, surface, shoe last

MODIFICATION OF TEXTILE SURFACES BY UV EXCIMER LASER IRRADIATION

Narcisa VRÎNCEANU, Diana COMAN, Ioan NEAGU

Textile Technologies Department, "Lucian Blaga" University of Sibiu, Romania

Abstract: Today, pulsed UV laser is one of the most commonly used non-contact and environmentally friendly treatment techniques in modifying surface properties of textile polymers.Viscose, polyamide, polyester fabrics were irradiated with 248 nm femtosecond KrF Excimer Laser. The surface characterization of the textile materials before and after laser treatment was performed by electronic microscopy (SEM, AFM) and sessile-drop contact angle (water permeability) analyses. It has been demonstrated that the nanostructuring of some textile polymers can greatly change the hydrophilic properties. Keywords: UV Excimer laser treatment, textiles, microstructuring, surface properties, water contact angle

NEW TYPES OF YARNS USED FOR THE KNITTING OF HOSIERY

Alina FLOCA

"Lucian Blaga" University of Sibiu, Romania

Abstract: This paper presents the yarns used for the knitting of hosiery and their properties. It highlights the new basic materials which have been created in order to fulfil the features characterising these products, such as: hygroscopicity, thermal insulation, comfort while wearing, anti microbial properties and production technology with minimal prejudice to the environment. Keywords: yarns, hosiery, properties of yarns

OPTIMIZATION OF SYSTEM GROOVE – SINKER – CAM

Martin BÍLEK, Jiří MRÁZEK, Tarek TOMEH

Department of Textile Machine Design of Technical University of Liberec, Czech Republic

Abstract: This article is concerned with the dynamics of the needle in needle groove of a circular-knitting machine. There is described a mathematical model of the system groove of the needle cylinder – sinker – cam. In compliance with this analysis, the motion equation of the sinker has been devised, and according to this equation, a model in the program MATLAB/SIMULINK has been compiled. Dynamic effects upon the sinker have been analyzed for varied geometries of stitch cams. In addition to cinematic dependencies in question, the simulation by means of mathematical model has also served to ascertain the limits of jamming of the sinker in the groove for individual cam geometries. Keywords: needle, mathematical model, optimization, circular knitting machine, needle groove

PRINCIPLES OF TRANSFORMING THE BASE PATTERNS OF CHILDREN’S CLOTHING

Ioan NEAGU, Diana COMAN

Lucian Blaga University of Sibiu, Romania

Abstract: The paper presents the main methods of transforming the clothing products for children, for each age groups: layette, toddler, children and junior. There are emphasized the influences of the type of product and the age of the wearer over the design method. Taking into account that some transformation methods of the base construction are specific also to adult clothing products, there are presented in detail the principles used for modifying the position of the waist line and of the product width. Keywords: children, clothing, textile materials, pattern construction, easy-fitting supplements, pleats.

EXPERIMENTAL ANALYSIS OF THE MECHANISMS OF

SEWING MACHINE

Karel PEJCHAR, Jaroslav BERAN, Martin BÍLEK, Pavel NĚMEČEK

Technical University of Liberec, Czech Republic

Abstract: This paper is concerned with experimental analysis of the behaviour of mechanisms of sewing machines. There has been carried out mapping of the sound field in the vicinity of the sewing machine, in order to locate the source of impact loading and to establish the overall hygienic loading of the machine. Based upon this analysis, the acceleration of the needle bars has been measured. These two measurings have led to the conclusion that it is the cam mechanism which most contributes to the noise and impact loading. Keywords: experimental analysis, sound field, acceleration of the needle bars, cam mechanism, impact loading

RESEARCH REGARDING TEXTILE ARTICLES WITH MICROCAPSULES AND THERMO-REGULATING

PROPERTIES

Marius BUTUC, Costea BUDULAN, Mirela BLAGA

Universitatea Tehnică „Gh. Asachi”, Iaşi, România

Abstract. One of the basic attributes of apparel products accepted by the client is to ensure him a feeling of comfort by the time of using. Apart from aesthetic aspect, comfort depends on sensorial feelings which results from the contact of apparel worn and the skin, as well as on physiological feelings caused by the clothing’s ability to ensure required heat protection, the possibility to lead out water vapors and carbon dioxide from the skin’s surface, and to protect the skin against the noxious activity of the environment. Micro-encapsulation is an upcoming technology that textile manufacturers are looking to keep ahead of the competition. Companies in this sector are challenged to find innovative materials that provide benefits. Proprieties like easy-care, anti-microbial, anti-static, flame retardant, thermal and moisture control are now ubiquitous as consumers come to expect high performance from their everyday wear. The race is now to find new ways of adding performance features and value to textile products

Keywords: micro-encapsulation, cosmeto-textiles, phase change materials (PCM’s), added value, benefits.

RESEARCH REGARDING THE PILLING EFFECT ON FABRICS OBTAINED FROM MIXED YARNS

Milena DINU, Alina FLOCA

“Lucian Blaga” University of Sibiu, “Herman Oberth” Engineering Faculty Abstract: The paper presents the comparative analysis of the pilling phenomenon for fabrics made of 50% acrylic and 50% wool Ttex 36x2, knitted in different structures. The tests have been performed with the Nu-Martindale tester model 864. The results obtained after friction stress with a number of cycles between 125 and 7000 are presented and analysed.

Key words: friction stress, mixed yarns, pilling effect, Nu-Martindale tester, dry-cleaning

STUDY OF SEAM STRENGTH ON KNITTED FABRICS

Alina FLOCA, Dorin VLAD

Textile Technologies Department, “Lucian Blaga” University of Sibiu, Romania

Abstract: The aim of this paper is the comparative analysis of seam strength for a few stitches used to assemble knitted panels. Tests were made according to SR EN ISO 13935-1 for different method of stitches, by changing the number of stitches/cm. Keywords: tests for knits, elastic seam, seam’s elongation, seam’s strength

STUDY OF THE FINISHING PROCESSES INFLUENCE ON THE SHRINKAGE OF KNITTED FABRICS

Diana COMAN, Alina FLOCA

Textile Technologies Department, "Lucian Blaga" University of Sibiu, Romania

Abstract: Shrinkage after washing and drying is an important aspect and this is why it will be taken into account when designing, because the knit product undergoes finishing operations. This paper presents a study on the shrinkage of knitted fabrics made in flat and rib geometry of natural protean yarns: wool, cashmere and silk. Knit samples have been conditioned, afterwards they have undergone washing and drying. These operations targeted to obtain a soft touch and to ascertain the shrinkage in washing and drying in vertical direction, direction of wales (Cv) and also in horizontal direction, direction of rows (Co).

Keywords: knitted fabrics, finishing, shrinkage, washing

SWEATSHOPS IN THE SPOTLIGHT

Călin DENEŞ, Valentin GRECU

Economical Engineering Department, "Lucian Blaga" University of Sibiu, Romania

Abstract: The paper aims to bring a new perspective to the pubic opinion about garment factories in third word countries, known as sweatshops. This is a reaction to the highly publicized anti-sweatshop campaigns. We try to answer to the question: are sweatshops a reason for poverty or a sign that the countries who host them are on the right path towards economic progress? Keywords: sweatshops, garment factories, poverty, economic progress.

TECHNOLOGICAL ASPECTS VIEWING THE FOOTWEAR’S SPATIAL DESIGNING

Cornelia IONESCU LUCA

Technical University “Gheorghe Asachi” of Iassy, Romania

Abstract: In the paper there will be presented technological aspects of the spatial designing, using requests of traction, of extension, of compression, of circumvolution, witch have as effect the creation of some deformations that remain in the materials that the footwear are made of.

Keywords: footwear, manufacturing materials, spatial designing

THE MORPHOLOGICAL CHANGES AND MECHANICAL PROPERTIES OF THE POLYAMIDE 6 (PA 6) FIBRES

Vasile BLAŞCU

Technical University, Faculty of Textile and Leather Engineering

Iaşi, Romania

Abstract: Dynamic mechanical measurements were carried out on PA 6 fibre treated with heat and swelling agents to produce changes in the crystalline morphology. The original smectic hexagonal crystal form was changed by heat treatment and phenol treatment to an unoriented and oriented -crystalline form, respectively, and by I2/KI treatment to a preferentially oriented -crystalline form. The behavior of the a mechanical loss peak located at about + 700 C was investigated. This peak was independent of frequency on the low-temperature side of the peak but markedly frequency-dependent on the high-temperature side. The low-temperature side of the peak probably represents a thermodynamically controlled “melting” or bond-breaking process which frees molecular unites to participate in a viscoelastic relaxation process which is the controlling factor in the high-temperature side of the peak. Keywords: Polyamide 6 fibres, dynamic mechanical measurements

WASHING BEHAVIOR OF CHITOSAN-COTTON FABRICS DYED WITH DIRECT BLUE 106

Bárbara MICÓ, Pablo MONLLOR, M. Ángeles BONET, Pablo DÍAZ, Ignacio MONTAVA

Unversidad Politénica de Valencia, Textile and Paper Department, Alcoy/Spain.

Abstract: Chitosan is a biopolymer with bactericide behaviour and environmentally healthy. We have padded chitosan solutions through cotton fabrics and we have tested bactericide effect, dyed them and colour fastness test. Keywords: Bactericide, dye, cotton, chitosan.

THE POLYAMIDE FIBRES UNDER UV RADIATIONS

Vasile BLAŞCU

Technical University, Faculty of Textile and Leather Engineering Iaşi, Romania

Abstract: An attempt has been undertaken to assess the effect of UV radiation on the molecular and super-molecular structure of polyamide fibers that are characterized by various macroscopic features, colors and additives. Based on the measurements performed, the general conclusion can be drawn that UV radiation under the exposure conditions used in our experiments causes changes in both the molecular and super-molecular structures of the investigated fibers. The extent of these changes is clearly dependent on the initial fiber structure, the modifiers added and the macroscopic features. Keywords: Textile fibers, Polyamide fibers, UV radiations, Molecular and super-molecular structure

WETTING CHARACTERISTICS IMPROVEMENT OF SOME TEXTILE MATERIALS BY UV LASER TREATMENT

Diana COMAN, Narcisa VRÎNCEANU

Textile Technologies Department, "Lucian Blaga" University of Sibiu, Romania

Abstract: Performance and comfort properties of the irradiated textiles could be largely affected by laser irradiation as these properties could have been changed if the surface is modified. Different textile materials (viscose, polyamide and polyester fabrics) were irradiated with 248 nm femtosecond KrF Excimer Laser. The surface characterization of the textile materials before and after laser treatment was performed by optic microscopy techniques (stereomicroscopy, SEM) and sessile-drop contact angle (water permeability) analyses. The paper showed the efficiency of the laser in surface microstructuring, as well as the possibility to control the wetting properties of textile materials. Keywords:textile surface modification, laser irradiation, contact angle measurement, hydrophilicity

COTTON FABRIC STRUCTURE INFLUENCE ON MICROCAPSULES DEPOSITION

Eva BOU, Pablo MONLLOR, M. Ángeles BONET, Pablo DÍAZ, Ignacio MONTAVA, Jaime

GISBERT

Universidad Politecnica de Valencıa Alcoy/Spain.

Abstract: From 90´s years microcapsules have been introduced in textile field. They can introduce new properties to textiles. Because of their potential, industry shows some interest about how to work in industrial process with them. In this work we demonstrate that fabric behave as a filter when microcapsules dispersions are padded through cotton fabrics. Keywords: Microcapsules, suitability, cotton, size.

PRINCIPLE OF DEVICE FOR MANUFACTURE OF NON-WOVEN TEXTILES

Martin KONEČNÝ, Ladislav ŠEVČÍK, Jaroslav HANUŠ, Pavel RYDLO, Martin DIBLÍK

Technical University of Liberec, Czech Republic

Abstract: The article shortly describes our device, which produces 3D non-woven textiles. There are technical textiles bonding with quasi yarns. Quasi yarns are mechanical method of fixation 3D textiles structures without reinforcing nets. Principles of mechanical bonding of nonwovens generally supposed to be less energy demanding and environment friendly when compared with chemical or thermal bonding. New technique and device that apply quasi yarns for surface fixing are described in this article. Keywords: quasi yarn, 3D non-woven textiles, mechanical bonding, surface fixing

CONTINUOUS IMPROVEMENT METHODS FOR PRODUCTS AND PROCESSES IN TEXTILE COMPANIES

Eugenia VERZEA, Ion VERZEA, Costea BUDULAN

“Gheorghe Asachi” Technical University, Iasi,, Romania

Abstract: Any action focuses on continuous improvement of products’ quality, productivity and competition. How can these be accomplished? From our point of view, the answer is the following: the accomplishment process shall be considered, not only the resulting product! Therefore, it shall be used a strategy in which the value system shall be based on reasoning, behaviour, style, relationships with producers, clients and suppliers. Starting with management features related to Romanian textile companies, the hereby study shall focus on highlighting application concepts/ principles and expected results from various continuous improvement methods of quality, so that they can be aggregated in an improvement global action of processes and products, especially in respect of textile companies from Romania.

PRODUCTION OF NOVEL SURFACES BY

ELECTROSPINNING

Rajkishore NAYAK, Rajiv PADHYE, Lyndon ARNOLD, Saniyat ISLAM

School of Fashion & Textiles, RMIT University, Melbourne, Australia Abstract: Electrospinning is a simple and versatile technique applicable to a wide range of polymers and solvents for the production of materials in nanometer scale. The nanofibrous materials produced by electrospinning process exhibit novel properties. The small fibre diameter, high surface area and the porous structure of the electrospun surfaces enable them for a wide range of applications such as wound dressing, tissue engineering scaffolds, vascular grafts, filters, membranes and sensors. In this article the principle, the process and the factors affecting the electrospinning process have been described. The properties, applications of electrospun fibres and the limitations of electrospinning process have also been highlighted. Keywords: Electrospinning, Electrospun nanofibre, Nanosurface, Polymer solution

DIVERSIFYING DRAWINGS FOR ‘SURFACE MAGIC’ TEXTILE PRINTS

Assistant Designer Marin FLOREA, Lecturer Cristian MATRAN PhD. Eng.

"Lucian Blaga" University of Sibiu.

Abstract: Graphic opportunities in the development of print’s drawings and repeating decorative surfaces using the ‘Surface Magic’ software. CAD solution in developing collections for industrial applications. Keywords: Print drawings, Surface Magic, design.

THE DESIGN OF THE DERIVED DIAGONAL WEAVES USING WEAVEMAKER ONE

Assistant Designer Marin FLOREA, Lecturer Cristian MATRAN PhD. Eng.

"Lucian Blaga" University of Sibiu.

Abstract: ‘WeaveMakerOne’ is an integrated system CAD-CAM for dobby looms. The system allows the design of structural drawings in weaving, the analysis and the design of structure, and the control of the weaving machines. Keywords: ‘WeaveMakerOne’, CAD-CAM, weaving machines, ratieră electronic dobby looms, woven structures, weaving report, drawings, models.