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THE HOPE PIONEER

ACE COMES BACK *

ition for Frocks Promises Wide Popularity.

Is No Attempt to Relieve the line of Evening Gowns When «v Are Deeply Decollete.

h!s time it is quite apparent to :h« casual observer, states a i writer, that old lace has come s own again and that there is a on of feeling against the severe ine except by women who know ook extremely well in such se-It is not especially trying when

acolletage is square, but when or V-shaped it takes a woman

remarkably regular features to

Oriental Frock for Dinner and Theater, of Bright Blue Satin and Slack Thread Lace. The Bodice Is >f the Latter. The Girdle Is Caught >y a Placque of Colored Beads.

•ry it off. This refers to day frocks. iere is no attempt to relieve the ckline of evening gowns when they e deeply decollete, as the bodice is rely of heavy or opaque material. The introduction of an afternoon ack, which now means a frock worn r lunch as well as tea, but not for e ordinary purposes of shopping or' itriotic work, with a deep U-shaped jcolletage half filled in with a flat ifHe of lace, has met with sufficient jpuiarity to insure a reasonable leasure of success, and one hears on very side the expression of pleased cceptance with a fashion that gives ne a chance to have the face soft-ned. Against this judgment there are a

iost of objectors who insist that the evere neckline is smart and that the >ther is out of the picture, but as soon is enough well-dressed women adopt he advancing method then she who is >ut of the picture will be in it. It is uerely a question of the eye. We are the victims of visual familiarity with objects. Otherwise there would not be that complete change in the fashions which occurs season in and out.

MITTENS ARE IN GAY COLORS

BLACK VEILS ARE PREFERRED

Color Takes Lead for Universal Be-comingness—Blue Also a Strong

Favorite With Women.

The possibilities of the veil are prac­tically unlimited. Chosen with care with regards to color, size and design, a veil has power to make even the plain­est women startlingly attractive. On the other hand, a veil can make a really pretty woman hopeless.

Perhaps the most important consid­eration is color. Black must take the lead for universal becomingness. After that comes blue ; but It must be quite a dark blue, and preferably of a coarse undotted mesh. The blue veil is be­coming to blonde and brunette alike, and is wonderfully effective in sug­gesting fineness and clearness of skin. Most trying of all though, is the white veil. Only she who knows her type to perfection and has proved the hecom-teffness of the white veil should at­tempt it. But brown veils for charm­ing red heads by all means 1

As to size or shape, the unimpeach-ably groomed person may go in for the long flowing veil, hanging loose from the face. But the average woman, if she would look her trlggest best, m#?t have her veil snug.

Unbeautifying splashy scrolls of the all-over kind are usually not the choice of the carefully dressed woman, no matter how modish the pattern. The same thing is true of dots. Dots well spaced on a veil carefully arranged have a positive fascination. But you know the funny side of a dot mis­placed, don't you?

CHIC NEW SWEATER BLOUSE

Garment Devised With Purpose of Conserving Wool, but Without

Giving Up Good Points.

An extremely serviceable and jaunty garment is the new combination sweat­er blouse, devised by some one who wanted to conserve wool without giv­ing up the good points of the sweater.

A blouse of some gay striped silk is first made according to a pattern that opens down the front with fronts that fold back and join in a wide sailor col­lar. But the sailor collar is not made of the silk. Instead, it is made of wool of some color that goes well with the strikes in the silk, as are wide cuffs foT the sleeves and a foot wide hip sec­tion that forms a tight-fitting peplum for the blouse. To put it on it is sim­ply pulled over the head. It is charm­ing to wear with the walking suit skirt, and the wool is placed just where the additional warmth under the suit coat might be most welcome of frosty mornings.

DUVETYN COAT FOR SERVICE

Woolen Hand Coverings Are Seen in Large Variety; Often Match

Scarf or Cap.

One reason put forward for the vogue for mittens is that one cannot carry a niulf and carry a bag, and every patriotic wouian simply must carry a bag these days. Another rea­son. and one that holds tru'j of the woman of moderate income, is that fur is high and a new mull' is out of the question. Then a lot of women are doing outdoor work who never liid it before. Tliey are exposed to the cold nipping air of morning and evening on their way to and from vol­unteer or paid work. They drive uutoinobiles and "conduct" street cars and act as messenger boys and collect bills, and for this work they need to have a protection for their hands that is more substantial than the kid glove or fabric glove of other days.

Hence the mitten! The prediction was made some

months ago that the smartly dressed woman would be wearing shaggy an­gora gloves and mittens and some peo­ple shrugged their shoulders and felt sure that there was nothing that would tempt the well-dressed woman away from the conventional kid. Surely the fact that they had almost doubled in price would not have this effect on the woman who took dressing serious­ly. But the vogue has come, and where well-dressed women are seen In outdoor attire there one also sees woolen gloves and woolen mittens. They are made in the gayest colors, often to match a woolen scarf or cap, and as the season advances they will be even more in evidence than they are now.

Linings Are Colored. A notion reminiscent of the blouses

of several seasons ago, when many colors were transfused by means of many linings placed one above the oth er, is shown in some clever blue blouses of georgette through which red, canary or petunia shows part of the way to the yoke and again for cufTs and collar.

1 *

This effective and <serviceable duve-tyn coat will appeal strongly to many. Who can resist the immense beaver collar and the "triple" pockets?

OF INTEREST TO WOMEN More than 6,000 women served as

drivers and aids in the American Ited Cross motor corps service. The khaki uniform was discarded and a new one of Ited Cross Oxford gray substituted.

The first girl "bell hops" in Mon­tana have been engaged at a hotel in Missoula, where the innovation has made a profound sensation among the ranchers and cowboys.

Of the 30,000 women enrolled In the department of nursing of the Bed Cross 700 have been assigned to the federal public health bureau, or to Ited Cross service in this country.

Swiss girl singers, sometimes assist­ed by boys, gave street concerts in the principal towns and cities to raise money for a fund for the comfort ol the soldiers guarding the borders of Switzerland.

SB

Oar Part in Feeding the Nation (Special Information Service United States Department of Agriculture.)

MORE CENTRAL BODIES OF FARMERS URGED.

fr"

Members of a County Farm Bureau Discussing Seed Corn With the County Agent

PUN FOR MORE CEHTRflL RODIES

One of Country's Needs, Says Secretary of Agriculture in

Recent Statement.

STRENGTHEN FARM BUREAUS

War Proved Power of Organizations That Plan Farm Work in Com­

munities—More Than a Mil-lion Members Enrolled.

One of the points of strength In America's agricultural organization has been found during the war to be central organizations of farmers to plan and develop the best methods of farming for their region. That these organizations are to be of even great­er usefulness in the era of peace is Indicated in a recent statement ad­dressed by the secretary of agricul­ture to the farmers and agricultural forces of the United States.

As ono thing that seems clear, the secretary noted the need of perfect­ing the organization of agricultural agencies for the purpose of intelli­gently executing such a program as may seem wise.

"We should not only have the best possible organization and co-opera­tion of the department of agriculture, the agricultural colleges, the state de­partments of agriculture and farmers' associations," said the secretary, "but we should especially strengthen the local farm bureaus and other organi­zations which support so effectively the extension forces and assist them In their activities. The perfecting of this organization is highly desirable, not only during the continuance of the present abnormal conditions, but also for the future. The local, as well as the state and federal agen­cies, are of supreme importance to the nation in all its activities designed to make rural life more profitable, healthful and attractive, and, there­fore, to secure adequate economic production, efficient distribution and necessary conservation."

Supporting County Agent Work. The county organizations, known as

county councils, county bureaus of ag­riculture, or farm bureaus, often em­ploy a county and a home demonstra­tion agent and aid them in their work. They usually are composed of farm­ers and others in the county interest­ed in agriculture.

At present there are more than 1,000,000 farmers who are members of organizations assisting the county agent in his work.

In the South. In the South special emphasis is

laid upon community organizations of farmers. These are increasing rap­idly and involve the work among men, women and children. The ten­dency and general policy of the work In most of the Southern states is gradually to form central county or­ganizations, composed of representa­tives of the community organizations, to deal, in co-operation with the coun­ty agents, with such problems as are county-wide in their nature.

Farm Bureaus in the North. In the Northern and Western status

the county organization is usually known as a farm bureau. The farm bureau is a nonpartisan, mon-sectarian, nonsecret organization rep­resenting the whole farming popula­tion of a county, men and women alike, and acting as a clearing house for every other association interested In work with rural people. Its pri­mary purposes nre:

(1) To bring to the agent the coun­sel and advice of the best farmers In the county as to what ought to be done and how to do it.

(2) To provide an organization for easily and quickly reaching every community in the county with infor­mation of value to that community or to the county as a whole.

(3) Te provide a plan for organ­

ized self-help, enlisting the co-opera­tion of all farmers interested in car­rying out a county agricultural pro­gram of work.

Membership is open to all residenta of the county directly interested in agriculture, men and women alike. A small membership fee (usually $1) is charged.

While the original conception of the farm bureau was as an aid to county-agent work, it was quickly realized that it has a broader field, and now It is coming to be recognized as the offi­cial agricultural body interacted in promoting all that pertains to a bet­ter and more prosperous rural life.

How to Organize. Farmers interested in organizing

county central bodies to work for bet­ter agriculture may obtain plans and other information from their state ex­tension director at the state agricul­tural college, or from the states rela­tions service, United States depart­ment of agriculture.

Finding Good Ground-Water. Good ground water is the Ideal sup­

ply for farms, according to Farmers' Bulletin 941, "Water Systems for Farm Homes," recently issued by the United States department of agricul­ture.

Any fanner about to put down a deep or expensive well, and who ie uncertain of the depth and the quan­tity or quality of the water likely to be encountered, should describe fully the location and conditions of his project to national or state geological authorities and ask for advice. Times without number, wells have been sunk to great depths in the belief that eventually a plentiful supply would be reached, only to find that water was not there, or that it was unfit for use, or that a mere hole or sump had been created which served but to drain water from relatively near the surface. There is no short cut and no better guide in this matter than information as to the kind, thickness, porosity, and dip of the strata of the region and of the results obtained in neighboring wells, study of the land slopes and character of the vegeta­tion, and examination for evidences of seeps and springs.

Regarding the use of a forked wil­low, hazel, or peach stick for locating underground water, it can be said safely the method is without merit, although so-called forked-stick artists from their experience and observation of surface conditions usually are bet­ter able to judge of the probabilities of ground water than is the average person not thus trained. So also, there is little to recommend certain patented automatic water finders which are based upon the possible, but largely conjectural, proposition that electrical exchanges between the earth and atmosphere are stronger in the vicinity of subterranean waters.

HOW TO TRANSFER BEES |

The keeping of bees in box hives or log "gums" is unprofit able. The care that bees need in order to gather a fair crop of honey can be given only if the beekeeper is able to examine the the bees and to move the combs as needed.

Probably one-third of all the bees in the United States are in hives without movable combs, and to assist the owners of such colonies to get them in proper hives the United States depart­ment of agriculture has pre­pared Farmers' Bulletin 961, "Transferring Bees to Modern Hives." Various methods are given, some one of which will be possible to any beekeeper, so that there is no reason for de­lay in making the bees produc­tive.

J Unless the bees are properly managed after transfer there is

+ little advantage in movable-4« frame hives. This requires a * study of beekeeping as well as •£ promptness and cai«. Direc-J tions for handling bees arc given ? in other publications of the de-

j £ partment.

1 * A TTTTTl 'TTTTTT'rTTTTTTTTTT'l'f?

"CAMOUFLAGE" By MISS SUE NORRIS.

Harley Cox had achieved what the other boys thought a most enviable fame—he was the biggest social suc­cess In the Wilton summer colony. Many fellow rivals wondered just how he did it and didn't hesitate to in­quire. But Harley was unable to oifer Itny practical assistance along this line. It wasn't In the poor boy's power to tell how the trick was turned.

The girl favored with his luvitation was considered especially lucky. Was It any wonder, then, that all of Wil­ton's folks stood aghast at the thought of Harl showing such a marked pref­erence for the society of Arline Serl? True, that girl was a sweetly refined little thing and reasonably popular; but when one considered the wide range of selection available to a man of Harl's standing it was startling to know that he preferred the little gov­erness In the Parkman family. Harl and Arline were slowly rounding the eurve, which would bring them in direct vision of the Parkman ve­randa.

* • * » •

"You may leave me here, Harl," saidi, Arline.

"But why should that be necessary, Arline? I want to prolong my happf-ness by seeing you to the very steps. Perhaps Mother Parkman will invite me to tea."

"Well said, little boy, but very much out of order after I have told you of my decision."

"Great guns, Arline, do you—can you think that I would consider any differ­ence in social position a barrier? You're a governess with a college ed­ucation which is the equivalent of wine. We have common interests and should be very happy. Why dig up stuff concerning social and financial differences which don't count at all?"

Upon reaching the piazza Harl shook bands with Mrs. Parkman, saying at the same time. "Congratulate me. Mother Parkman. I've found 'the' lady 1"

• • * * • Harl, armed with flowers and candy

ibnde a morning call at the Parkman home. Upon learning that Arline had made a hurried departure on an early morning train, leaving no city address after her, Ilarl attempted to gain pos­session of himself sufficiently to leave the llowers and sweets for an invalid aunt in the household and depart.

* * * * *

The spacious rooms of the Granville hone were ideal for the' social pur­poses' to which they were frequently subjected. Mrs. Granville was famous because of her very successful social gatherings. Tonight's dance was no exception.

Harley Cox respectfully excused himself from the very lively gath­ering of younger debutantes to an­swer the summons of his hostess, Sirs. Granville.

"Now Harl, my boy," said Mrs. Granville, "look your finest. I want you to meet my best beloved niece.

So saying, Mrs. Granville led the way to the farther end of the room. Arriving there she secured the atten­tion of one of the most attractive ol' a group of girls and said, "Arline, I want to present—"

But she wasn't able to get any fur­ther for both Arline and Harley in­sisted upon taking up all of the talk­ing space available.

Briefly explaining that he had made Arline's acquaintance, Harl quickly took her out of the crowd.

Gaining a quiet corner, Harl de­manded an explanation of Arline's sud­den departure from Wilton.

In her quiet way Arline said, "Yes. Harl, I do owe you an explanation, 1 know. As to my residence, since Aunt Martha's breakdown I have been living here with her. She is such a dear and so Indulgent that'I am able to find plenty of time to write here.

"Perhaps I don't understand, Arline, What work do you mean? Do you still teach?"

"Oh, no, I am finishing up my book. When you met me I was working after hours on the most vital part of my story. There being no kiddies at home I wanted to go somewhere where I might make their acquaintance in or­der to secure atmosphere for my story.

"Why then did you let me believe that you were really a governess? Furthermore, why did you run away when I needed you most, Arline?"

"I allowed you to continue in er­ror about my position as governess since I felt happy to know that you cared regardless of my social position.

"Indeed," said Harl, "then I pltiyed 'second fiddle!' Although a man isn't ordinarily interested in the welfare of his rival, I'd like to ask how the book panned out."

"Well, the publishers were satisfied with earlier installments of it and are anxious to have me send the later part. But I've lost my ambition," she added a little wistfully.

"And the cause of this loss of am­bition, Arline? Why has the once so particularly important book come .into disfavor?"

"Because it's nearly been to blame for my losing something more essential than the hook," answered Arline with a telltale'blush.

"Blessed book," answered Harl while he boldly took the girl in his arms. "Were it not for it, I might never have met my dream girl."

This, they both seemed to think, would have beeu a most alarming trag­edy. <CopyrlRlii. tDIS. Iiy McClure Kowspapei

Syndicate.)

GATHER YE ROSES! Happiness Never a Thing 0n»

Lightly Casts Away.

Too Beautiful, Even Though Evanes­cent, to Be Pasted By When Ona

May Hold It, If Only for the Moment.

We were coming home from a din­ner party together, my friend and L It was late at night-and rather rainy„ and as we sat together in the damp* almost empty trolley car, my friend? spoke very suddenly and seriously, writes Margaret *E. Songster In the-Christian Herpld.

"Just now," she said, "I've a chance-to be very happy. But I'm almost afraid to take It!"

The rain beat In a futile manner against the car windows. I listened to-it for a momefit before I spoke.

"Why?" I questioned at last—"why-are you afraid to take your chance— to be happy?"

"Because," answered ray friend, and' her eyes looked far away—past the car and the rain, even—"because I'm. afraid that it won't last'."

When it is autnmn and the leaves: are crimson and gold-colored and very beautiful, we know, even as we admire-them, that they will be brown and withered some day. But that does not keep us from loving their glorious col­ors.

It's like that, too, with flowers, and springtime, and the blue sky of sum­mer. We know that the flowers will fade away and that springtime will go> and that there will be winter storm clouds where there were once sparkles-of sun.

And so this is the answer to my friend and to other friends of miue:

Never be afraid to grasp at happi­ness because it may not last. For hap­piness is as beautiful as the flowers of spring and the sky of summer and the vivid leaves of autumn. And even though It might not last, happiness Is-too beautiful to pass by with never a glance.

And then, as the philosopher said, and as we know, don't be sure, as you take your chance at happiness, that it will not stay. Look around your cir­cle of friends, look at your business-associates, loolj, at the casual crowds and note the average of happy faces Is rather high. You'll see more smiles, I think, than frowns; more merry face® than sad ones!

Don't be afraid to take a chance at happiness because you fear that it is-too beautiful to last. Take your chance, instead, arguing that happiness-is too beautiful not to last!

Dead Man Upright at Machine Gun. Stories of the scenes of the battle­

fields are told in a letter received by Mrs. II. E. Wilson of Middle avenue, Wilmerding, I'a.. from her son, Pri­vate Gordon Wilson of the One Hun­dred and Ninth Ambulance corps.

Walking over the battlefield in search of wounded men. he wrote, he found himself staring into the muzzle of a German machine gun, with a German soldier at the breech. Drop­ping into a shell hole, Private Wilson remained there for half an hour, not daring to move. Finally, as darkness approached, he decided to crawl away. He lost his way, he says, and did not know where he was until he was again looking at the German machine gun and the lone soldier behind it. This time*he was In a position.to see better and recognized at once that the soldier was dead. A bullet fired by an American rifleman had penetrated his forehead, probably just at the time he was preparing to pour a volley into-the advancing columns.

Washtub Punishment. A cigarette carelessly thrown away

by a guard caused discomfort to a squad of engineers at Camp Shelby, Miss., says a letter received by Mr. and Mrs. E. Borton, Indianapolis, from their son, George K. Borton of the en­gineers.

Borton and six comrades awoke about midnight to find their tent in flames. They were driven into the chilly night air in sleeping apparel. » Soldiers from nearby tents hurried to the rescue with blankets and Private Borton ran a hundred yards for wa­ter. The* fire department arrived in time to soak the cots. The following morning the guard of the squad was ordered to wash seven pairs of trou­sers as a punishment for dropping tlfce cigarette near the tent. >

Earth a Blue Star. Observations of the dark part of the

moon were made by Professor Lowtll at the observatory at Flagstaff, Ariz., says the New York World. The dark part of the moon is lighted only by the faint light reflected by the earth, and the color of this light would be the color with which the earth shines to the other heavenly bodies. This color proved to be blue, which was to be ex­pected, as the atmosphere, as'we see it, is blue, and it is the earth's atmos­phere whlcji chiefly would be visible to other planets. Thus the earth is a blue star.

A Solemn Thought. "Just think of it, my friend." said

the everlasting worrier, "in the arc­tic regions the nights are sometimes six months lonja" /

"Well, what of it?" asked his friend as he adjusted his flu mask and a smile at the same time.

"Just Imagine the eonsternntlon of :i poor Eskimo wife when her husband calls up to tell her he will be nway all night to sit up with a sick friend."

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