A CONTINUING AND ONGOING DEVELOPMENT (Including Some ...nrpwilson.co.uk/chapter 13.pdf · Herbs, Spices & Seasonings In the recipes that follow later, the seasonings have been given

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CHAPTER THIRTEEN

MEAT PRODUCT AND MEAT PREPARATION

MANUFACTURE -

A CONTINUING AND ONGOING DEVELOPMENT

(Including Some Sample Recipes)

Recipes do vary from country to country and even from region to region within a country and no

list of recipes can be taken to be exhaustive. Included here are just a few suggested basic recipes

gathered over a longish period of time and which may be of interest to those involved with meat

processing. In view of the ever changing nature of legislation relating to the description (and

indeed in some cases the content) of meat products and preparations, the reader is advised to

make the necessary checks that for the sale of any products which are going to be made, the

demands of legislation which may be current at that time is being met for those products which

are being made.

Recipes in themselves are constant. The quantities of each item remain quite constant in ratio to

each other for each ingredient but the total quantities of each ingredient in the recipe can vary

depending upon the total finished quantity of product aimed at. In the sample recipes included

here, the quantities used are quite small (generally too small for large production purposes, the

base usually being a single weight unit, in the main, metric weights to conform with more

modern weighing) but these may be expanded as needed for the production involved.

Before discussing the recipes themselves though it is necessary to briefly consider some of the

ingredients (other than meat) that may be used in the products. Herbs, seasonings, spices and

fillers are often taken for granted but they can, in themselves, be quite an interesting subject to

study.

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Herbs, Spices & Seasonings

In the recipes that follow later, the seasonings have been given in quantities for the various

individual products. However, quite often some recipes (NOT those shown here) will require a

given quantity of „stock seasoning‟. Stock seasonings are seasonings that are used quite regularly

and, to aid the operator, a larger quantity of seasoning is prepared in advance following the basic

recipe requirements. Once prepared, it may only be necessary to say (using as an example, in the

Beef Sausage No.2 recipe) that a mix of 6kg of meat requires a total of 500g of seasoning. This

„bulk mixing‟ eliminates an element of time for weighing out each individual seasoning for the

product. In using this example it would be possible to mix say, 2.8 kg of salt, 2.1 kg of Ground

White Pepper, 700g of Ground Nutmeg and 350g each of Ground Ginger, Ground Mace, Ground

Sage and Ground Cayenne. This would give a stock of 7 kg of stock seasoning, enough for about

14 mixes of sausages. It can save time but it can also lead to errors. In the example given, the

quantities of Ginger, Mace and Cayenne are comparatively quite small and if the mixing isn‟t

quite as good as it needs to be or if one of the seasonings tends to ‟settle‟ during storage it may

lead to any individual sample of the mix receiving quantities which don‟t quite match the

quantities in the recipe. Will this today‟s batch be the same as tomorrow‟s batch? It may indeed

be quite similar, or it may be significantly different. Is the risk worth it? Some people do believe

in stock seasonings and some people say that it does work. It is up to the individual to decide if

they feel confident with such a system, or is it perhaps better to just take a little more time and

trouble to get the recipe right every time.

This section will give some brief information on the various herbs, spices and seasonings but

they are not separated out into sections of herbs – spices and seasonings. Salt (sodium chloride),

while being a very definite seasoning is quite separate as a mineral in its own rights and is again

not included in the list. In general it can be taken that „herbs‟ are generally the fresh leaves,

flowers or seeds of various plants. „Spices‟ (and to a large extent, „seasonings‟) are the dried, and

perhaps ground down versions of some of the herbs. Any of the dried spices and seasonings may

be very much subject to „ageing‟ and it is best not to stock large quantities of any of these

items, preferably obtaining fresh supplies on a regular basis since the effect of ageing may often

be a noticeable loss in flavour.

Bay Leaves

These are the leaves of a small evergreen bush that grows throughout Great Britain and they

contain a volatile oil that has quite a pleasant odour. They are best used fresh although quite

often they are obtained in the dried form that unfortunately has lost a certain amount of flavour.

Mainly they are used in brines but they may also be used where meat is being cooked but care

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should be taken to ensure their removal from the cooking prior to any further process.

Black Pepper (& White Pepper) [Whole, Ground or Crushed]

These are a product usually from more tropical areas of the world notably Malay, Singapore,

Penang and the West Indies. The Black pepper is the fruit of a climbing plant piper nigrum and

is then dried before being sold either whole or as a crushed or ground product (Crushed pepper

and ground pepper are similar but the breaking is carried out to provide a seasoning being

required for slightly different purposes). White Pepper These are produced from the same plant

but are a more mature version, again being dried prior to use.

Cayenne

Sometimes referred to as Cayenne Pepper it is prepared mainly from Capsicum minimum and

capsicum annuum that are dried and ground.

Cardamon

This is prepared from the seeds of the plant Elettaria cardamomum that is found around the

Indian sub-continent. The seeds are ground and are used sparingly in some Continental type

sausages

Celery Seeds

These are the dried fruits of the celery plant Apium graveolens. That is usually imported from

Southern Europe and India. Their main use is in items such as liver sausage although it is a

useful spice to try with some other products. Care must be taken to ensure that it is „celery seeds‟

that are used and NOT celery salt. The latter is merely some ground celery seed mixed with salt

and has a much less pronounced flavour but does increase the saltiness of the product.

Cinnamon

This is obtained from the dried inner bark of the stems of Cinnamomum zeylancium that is

again found in the Indian sub-Continent. It is used occasionally in some cooked pork products.

Cloves

These are the dried flower buds from the plant Eugenia caryophyllata that comes from Zanzibar,

Madagascar and Penang. These are quite often used „studded‟ into the outside when baking hams

while the ground cloves are useful for including in brawn, black puddings and occasionally in

liver sausage.

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Coriander

This is the herb Coriandrum sativum and the seeds of the plant are dried and may be used whole

or ground. It is a useful spice and can be used in a number of sausages, namely good quality pork

sausages and frankfurters. The leaves of the plant are best used fresh when possible and can be

included in products such as brawns and some potted meats

Garlic

This is the bulb of the plant Allium sativum and is obtained from many of the countries

bordering the Mediterranean areas as well as South America and the Indian Sub-Continent. It is

well know as a powerful seasoning agent and is essential in many Continental type products and

can, if used sparingly; also provide piquancy to some English products.

Ginger

This is a part of the rhizome of the plant Zingiber officianale Roscoe that is found in the West

Indies, India and parts of Africa. Although the ground version is useful in adding a „little extra‟

to many pork products and sausages, some shredded ginger may also be occasionally tried in

brawns and potted meats.

Juniper Berries

These are the dried fruits of the coniferous shrub Juniperus communis that can be found in the

British Isles. Once again, their general use is in the makeup of brines.

Mace & Nutmeg

Both of these are obtained from the fruit of the tree Myristica fragrans. This tree can be found in

Penang, Sumatra Java and the West Indies. The fruit once ripe, splits into two parts, the redder

outer part called the „arillus’ and in the centre there is a brown seed. The arillus is stripped away

and dried to form mace while the seeds after drying are cracked open to reveal inside the nutmeg.

Although from the same plant the two seasonings are different and each one deserves the respect

due for the flavours that they can impart.

Marjoram

This is obtained from the leaves of the plant Marjorana hortensis that is found in the British

Isles. The leaves again may be used in many pork products either fresh or in sausages when dried

and ground.

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Mint

Mint is a genus of about 25 species (and many hundreds of sub species or varieties) of flowering

plants in the family Lamiaceae (Mint Family). Many of the species have a distribution across

Europe, Africa, Asia, Australia, and North America. The leaf, fresh or dried, is the usual source

of mint for cooking. Fresh mint is usually preferred to dried mint where possible but is usually

found to be quite acceptable. Mint is not widely used in manufactured products but its

distinctive taste does lend itself on some occasions. In British cookery though, mint sauce is

quite popular with lamb.

Mustard.

Mustard flour is a product of the ground seeds of the mustard plants Brassica sinapioides (Black

Mustard) and Brassica Alba Boissier (white mustard). These plants are grown in many

countries around the world. The products of this substance are sometimes used in some sausages

but can be quite volatile and should be used with some care.

Onion

This is the bulb of the plant of the lily family Allium cepa. Often described as being a

„vegetable‟ rather than a herb it is a fact that without the distinctive flavour that the onion can

give, many foods would become less interesting. Its use is invaluable in many products both as

fresh, diced onion, dried kibbled onion and as onion powder.

Pimento

Pimento is also known as allspice, which is in itself quite a misnomer since that name implies

that it is a mixture of many spices while in fact it is actually the berry of the tree, Pimenta

officinalis that is grown mainly in the West Indies. This is a different spice to the American

Pimento (also sometimes mistakenly called allspice) that is a form of Paprika. The ground

Pimento spice is used in many Continental type sausages.

Pistachio

This is a product of the tree Pistacia vera that grows around the Mediterranean area and when

dried and ground can be very useful in products such as galantines. The production of galantines

can be quite complex, almost „works of art‟ in some cases and while they may be of some

interest to some meat producers of fine cooked meats, the modern demand is very limited and

recipes for this kind of product has not been included in the appendix. They can however

provide a definite impact when prepared and displayed properly.

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Rosemary

Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) is a woody, perennial herb with fragrant evergreen needle-

like leaves. It is native to the many parts of Europe. It is also a member of the mint family

Lamiaceae, which also includes many other herbs. The fresh and dried leaves are used

frequently in many meat products and other cookery as a herb; they have a bitter, astringent taste,

which complements a wide variety of foods. Again, like mint, Rosemary is a popular

accompaniment to Roast lamb.

Sage

The plant Salvia officinalis is grown in the British Isles and the leaves may be used in the

production of sausages and stuffing mixes, usually in the dried form but provided that they are

„well chopped‟ before use they can provide a very useful product.

Thyme

Another plant grown in the British Isles, Thymus vulgaris is, like sage a product that can be used

either in the fresh or the dried form but once again it is the leaf that is being used and if used

fresh, it must be chopped well before use.

Truffles

These are an edible fungus but the English type is Tuber aestivum and is usually found near the

roots of trees where they are hidden under leaf mould. These are quite an expensive product and

while they may be useful in some game products their use in general meat production is limited

by their cost.

Binders

Cereal binders used in English sausages are added to the meat mix along with water and

seasonings in order to „bind‟ together the meat in the sausage and, to some extent, to absorb

some of the residual fats & juices coming from the meat content of the sausage. A further factor

that is associated with the binder is that of helping to reduce the overall manufacturing costs of

the sausage. This latter point though should ideally be of only a marginal consideration since,

all binders do, to some extent, carry some of the cereal flavour into the sausage and it is pointless

to produce a sausage that no one wishes to buy or eat at a very low cost merely by using an

excess of binder. The quantity of binder permitted (or more accurately the meat content) of the

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sausage is quite strictly controlled by legislation and even when used at permissible levels some

„taste‟ carried from some of the cereals may be noticeably detectable. Binders do have their uses

but to use theme simply to produce a ‟cheap‟ product is simply a means of reducing demand and

their sales growth. In a similar way, during many cooking processes, „cornflour‟ is often used as

a thickening agent to sauces and soups but while definitely achieving the target of thickening,

cornflour can be quite easily detected in the taste of the finished product where it has been used

excessively. In saying all of this though, binders in themselves have a taste which can be quite

pleasing to the palate and, when mixed with appropriate seasonings and meat they can enhance

the overall flavour of the sausages. The binders do have another characteristic that can be a

critical point in sausage manufacture. They do absorb water (and meat juices) and this factor

must be evaluated along with the individual taste factors of the various binders as the moisture

and meat juices can help to develop some of the succulence of the sausage in its entirety.

Binders though are not only used in sausages and nor are they always of a cereal type. Some

cereal binders are found to be a very useful part in the manufacture of some cooked meat

products while blood plasma, albumen and some meat emulsions (made largely from connective

tissues) can be found in the recipes for many continental type sausages and meat products. Other

continental type sausages have the „binding‟ effect of the sausage created by the processes of the

sausage manufacture and indeed, their costs may be effectively reduced by introducing some

considerable amounts of water (in the form of ice) during their manufacture, but again, where

cost becomes involved it is quite common for the quality to suffer, and ultimately the desirability

and therefore the sales.

Rusk,

Perhaps the most common of the cereal binders used in the English type of sausage is that of

rusk. Rusk is manufactured from wheat flour and water that is baked into quite large „slabs‟ that

are subsequently ground down to produce a fairly even sized granule. Some rusks are asked for

as a „fine‟ rusk and in such products, the grinding takes the particle size down. A good rusk can

absorb up to twice its own weight of water but it can often prove to be a false economy to try to

aim at „maximum absorption‟ of water. Once the water has been added and mixed into the rusk

there is a noticeable rise in temperature of the mix. Ideally, the rusk should have the water added

perhaps an hour before its use and after mixing it can be stored under chill conditions.

Although many would disagree, the author believes that a more uniform overall mix is achieved

if the weighed, dry seasoning is added and mixed into the weighed, dry rusk. The soaked rusk

should then be well mixed with the meat prior to filling. Some people recommend the seasoning

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being added to the meat with the rusk being added last. Others suggest that the seasoning should

be added only after the meat and rusk have been mixed. Each person may have some valid points

to consider but generally the author‟s opinion is that if the seasoning is added and mixed into the

dry rusk that is then soaked then the equal coating of the seasoned rusk onto the meat produces a

much more consistent product.

Bread,

Although not now as common as a sausage binder, bread used to be a very popular binder and is

worthy of mention. It is usual for the bread to be „staled‟, or left to dry for three or four days

after baking before being ground to create the „crumbs‟ that are needed. Many people used to

claim that the use of bread as a binder improved the flavour of the finished sausage but once

again, this may be simply a preference of taste. The water absorption of bread is slightly less

than that of rusk, being 1 to 1½ parts water to 1 part bread.

Farina

Farina, or potato flour, when used is more common in being chosen for cooked sausages

although again, some people do prefer the binding action that it gives. The absorption of water is

similar to bread but the rate of absorption can appear to be much quicker.

Soya Flour

Produced from the Soya bean this product used as a meat binder, in controlled quantities, can

have some quite surprising effects. As the protein content of the Soya can be quite similar to that

of meat it can be difficult to detect where the Soya content isn‟t too high. Again, the absorption

rate is similar to that of bread but it can be variable depending upon the size of the grind of the

soya flour. It can be obtained as flour and it can also be obtained in a granular form.

During the period of the Second World War it was sometimes used by some less scrupulous

manufacturers who, recognising the protein properties of Soya used this to mask the shortage of

meat. Analysis at that time was somewhat restricted but modern analysis methods can now detect

its presence much easier in a sausage mix.

Blood Albumin (or plasma)

The collected blood from the slaughter process (when not used fresh for black puddings etc.) can

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be processed to separate the plasma (that includes the white blood cells) from the erythrocytes

(mainly red blood cells. The general term for the collected plasma is the „blood albumin‟ and this

is used, particularly on the continent as a binding agent in some of their sausages. Due to its

highly perishable nature it has traditionally had a very short shelf life and needed to be treated

with extreme caution. Now though it is collected and stored in a more stable, dried form and it is

also occasionally used in the preparation of emulsions made from rinds (and sometimes some

other connective materials). The dried red blood material (rather than fresh blood) is also now

more commonly used in the manufacture of black puddings etc due to its more convenient

storage form as a dried product.

Emulsions

In the section dealing with the tumbling of meat a brief mention was made of the „emulsion‟ that

was created by the process from the mechanical action and the subsequent reactions of the actins

and myosin's of the muscle tissues along with the salt and water. A similar process, but

variously utilising fats, muscle and connective tissue can be brought about to create an emulsion

and that emulsion may then be used as a form of binder in some sausages and meat products. Fat

emulsions, meat emulsions and rind emulsions are though, in themselves, all different. The

subject of emulsions can be quite a detailed study in itself so a brief description of emulsions

follows but those more interested in the subject should consider the more specialised and detailed

reading that is available. In general terms, an emulsion is an intimate mixture of two immiscible

liquids, one of them (the disperse phase) being dispersed in the other (the continuous phase) in

the form of fine droplets. Meat emulsions are normally emulsions of oil in water, water being the

continuous phase. This is when two immiscible liquids are adjacent to each other and interfacial

tensions exists at the interface, i.e., the two liquids wants to „pull apart‟ from each other. In an

emulsion the area of interface is very great and consequently so is the interfacial tension. This

implies that energy has to be introduced into the system when an emulsion is formed. The higher

the interfacial tension, the more energy is required to achieve emulsification, and the greater the

desire on the part of the emulsion to reverse the system, i.e., for the oil particles to coalesce

eventually into one and to separate from the water. Emulsifying agents are substances that

reduce interfacial tension and make easier the formation of emulsions. Because of their structure

they have an affinity for both oil and water. Meat proteins are natural emulsifying agents, due to

the nature of the amino acid side chains situated along their lengths, some of which are lyophylic

and others hydrophilic. The emulsifying agent in an emulsion coats the surface of the fat droplets

reducing the interfacial tension. (Ref: Meat & Meat Products – factors affecting quality control,

N.R.P. Wilson et al 1981 ISBN 0-85334-951-7: and Ref: Evans, F.G. BFMIRA Scientific and

Technical Circular No. 71, 1971)

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PI E S A ND PA S T RI E S

Pies and pasties all require one very basic element each, the pastry. Pastry itself can vary to suit

the different products and individual tastes but, however, some basic pastry recipes are given

here. Experimentation by slight variation of the various ingredients may create a product that

has a more „preferred‟ taste or perhaps be more suitable to a particular product or even locality

and also the tastes of that locality.

Rough puff pastry is not perhaps used very widely with meat products but as there is some use of

it, some mention must be made, and a recipe is given. In order to produce a „good‟ rough puff

pastry though it does require some considerable time and certainly a fair amount of effort (unless

a pastry rolling machine is close at hand). Although time and effort are to be expected from

workers in the meat industry the cost of that time and effort must be considered against the

potential gains that are available for the time/effort outlay. A more acceptable method nowadays

(except where the larger scale production of products using rough puff pastry is contemplated) is

to „buy in‟ readymade rough puff pastry or puff pastry (sometimes called flaky pastry), probably

in frozen blocks. Rough puff pastry and flaky pastry are not the same product but to a limited

extent, flaky pastry can be used in place of rough puff pastry but rarely can rough puff pastry be

used in place of flaky pastry.

In a similar vein, suet crust pastry is not a product widely used in meat products (steak and

kidney puddings perhaps being the main item that does use it) but again a basic recipe is given in

case it may be needed by someone.

Short Crust Pastry.

4 kg Plain flour

1¾ kg Lard or margarine (butter may be preferred but for commercial purposes

lard or margarine are usually used)

20g Salt (This is a commodity which is currently under severe scrutiny on

health grounds and if an acceptable taste is achieved by using less, do so

but do NOT compromise taste for absolutely no reason).

Water For this amount of pastry about 300ml to 400ml should be quite adequate

but It may be found with some pastries that different batches of pastry

(and perhaps even flours) do require slightly different amounts of water to

achieve an accepted consistency so do add the water gradually and also

have more water available in case more may be needed to be added should

it be required.

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Method

Put the flour and salt into a bowl (in the case of modern flours, sifting of the flour, although

recommended by many recipes is now rarely necessary) add the fat (which may be put in as

slices or small chunks) and rub the fat into the flour until the mixture begins to crumble into a

breadcrumb like appearance. (One method seen, but not tried by the author, is to have the lard in

a frozen state and then to shred it for adding to the flour. It is claimed that this method enables a

more even mixing.) Add the water gradually and continue mixing until the pastry forms a fairly

firm mass. Empty onto a floured surface and knead to complete the mix but don‟t over knead.

Use as required in the recipe. An increase in the quantity of fat makes a „shorter‟ pastry and

reductions in the amounts of fat makes a pastry, which is less „short‟. The pastry once made may

be either used immediately, or be placed into a chiller for a short time prior to use, thus making it

slightly more firm to handle.

To make a cheese pastry, 250g of grated cheese should be added to each 1kg of flour used. For

best results a fairly mature type of cheese is preferred. This is added after the fat has been

rubbed into the flour but before the water is added. Cheese pastries can be used to make Cheese

and Onion pasties which are similar to Cornish pasties but obviously having a cheese and onion

filling. Products such as this appears to have an even stronger regional preference so no recipe

is given here but this kind of recipe is quite easy to develop to suit the „local‟ demand.

H O T WAT E R P A S T R Y

(This type of pastry is often preferred for use in making pork pies and by some people for

making steak and kidney pies, both of which may be required to hold a „gravy‟ or liquor once

baked.

3½ kg Plain flour

1.25 kg Lard (melted)

20g Salt (do remember the point of scrutiny of salt levels for health reasons)

1.4ltr of near boiling water.

Due to the temperatures of the water and the hot fat DO TAKE EXTREME CARE when

producing this pastry.

Put the flour and the salt together in a bowl making a „well‟ in the centre of the mix. Melt the

lard until it is quite hot but take care with this as hot fat can cause more „burn‟ to skin than

boiling water since it does achieve a higher temperature and will stick to the skin. Boil the

water. (Some recipes suggest mixing the lard with the water and bringing it all to the boil. In

theory this may sound ideal but when water containing fat reaches the boiling temperature of the

water, the mixture may „spit‟ tremendously and serious injury can result). Add the melted lard

and most of the boiling water into the flour/salt mix and beat well with a wooden spoon (if a

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mixing machine isn‟t being used) until the mixture clings together in a ball and leaves the sides

of the bowl cleanly. Do not attempt to mix this mixture by hand, very hot fat has been used

and the mix being prepared may cause injuries). If the mixture is still „dry‟, then add the

remainder of the water. The reason for this is that additional water may be added but water

cannot be taken out once added. This is another good reason for not putting the water with the fat

to heat up since all of the fat should be used but not necessarily all of the water. Put the finished

product onto a floured surface and leave to cool before using in the recipe. It can help to chill

the product down prior to use as this makes it more workable.

.

S U E T C R U S T PA S T R Y

3.0 kg Plain flour & 50g baking powder (or alternatively use 3.0kg self-raising flour)

25g Salt

1.25 kg Shredded beef suet

2 ltr. Cold water

Method

Mix together the flour, baking powder and salt in a bowl, stir in the suet and then bind with the

water to form a soft mix. Turn out onto a floured surface and knead only lightly prior to use.

This mix can be used in making steak and kidney puddings (or indeed can be used for some meat

pies although it is less popular than the first two pastries). Do note that the salt level in this recipe

is quite high and in view of modern demands may need to be reduced.

Rough Puff Pastry.

3.0 kg Plain flour

0.75 kg Lard

1.00kg Margarine

20g Salt

1.5ltr Cold water

Method

(The mix of lard and margarine can be varied, some recipes suggesting all margarine, other

recipes suggesting the majority of margarine and less lard. The mix has to be developed to

suit the product that sells best). Some recipes advise the addition of some lemon juice to make

this pastry but that can usually be regarded as an „optional item‟.

Mix the flour and the salt and then add the fats that have been cut up into small pieces and stir

into the mix but DO NOT rub it in as is done with the other pastries. Add enough water to make

it into a stiff dough mix and then turn the mix out on to a floured rolling board. Roll some of the

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mix (enough for one rolling) out into a narrow strip and then fold the strip into three, in doing so

turning the „block‟ of rolled pastry through one quarter so that the open ends are facing you.

Roll out the pastry again into a strip and fold again then turn to make the open ends face you

again. This action needs to be done three or four times to complete the process. The finished

rolled pastry should then be placed into the chiller to rest for about 30 or 40 minutes before its

final use.

P O R K P I E S

In making pies, ideally a pie forming machine is needed for any large quantity production.

Simple, hand operated machines are available with the „blocking‟ head heated either by gas or

electricity. However, some pies can be made without the aid of such machines, the „hand raised‟

pork pie being in itself quite a popular selling pie. In making a small hand raised pie, while not

absolutely essential it is again made easier if a pie forming tin (or ring) is used and if a wooden

„block‟ can be made up for use with the tin or „ring‟. This kind of block needs to be about 3

times the height of the pie to be made (which is the depth of the tin) and about 10 or 15mm less

than the diameter of the tin being used (to enable a thickness of pastry at the sides). If the block

is made with a „ring‟ turned in on one end it does make it more obvious which way up it is to be

used! The ring end is not where the pastry is put on it! The block needs to be made of a hard

wood (to enable it to maintain a good standard of hygiene) and be well smoothed down in order

to prevent any pieces of wood getting into the pies. As a rough guide when getting material ready

it can be useful to remember that a small pie e.g. a 227g (8oz) pie will contain about 114g (4oz)

of pastry and 114g (4oz) of meat (here giving imperial weights as well as metric weight for a

traditional British product). The pastry (usually hot water pastry) is rolled out, fairly thick (the

thickness will become easier to determine for the person making them as they progress) and then

may be laid over the well-floured forming block. Form the pastry to the block until it is of a

thickness that permits the tin to be put over it. Turn over the tin, with the block and pastry still in

it and carefully remove the block. The tins then have a pastry cavity to hold the meat. After

filling the cavity with meat the edges of the pastry around the top of the pie are wetted with

water and a pastry lid can be placed on top. Using either a „crimping tool‟ (or even a normal

dining fork) crimp the pastry lid to the rest of the pie before trimming off any surplus pastry from

around the edges. Large pies are difficult to make without using a block and „pie tin‟ but small

pies can also be made as follows without a tin. Prepare the hot water pastry as usual and allow

starting to chill. Roll an approximate amount [let‟s say 114g (4oz) of pastry for a 227g (8oz pie)]

into a fairly even „ball‟. Chill the pastry balls for a time; about an hour is usually enough to get

the firmness needed. Take the „ball‟ and put the two thumbs into the centre of the ball and form

a „cup‟, turning frequently to ensure that the sides have a reasonably even thickness (similarly to

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how a potter can be seen doing with clay - although the potter has a moving turntable to help the

work). Make sure that the sides are tall enough to take the meat that will be used and place the

meat into the cup. Take a small piece of rolled out pastry to use as a lid and, after wetting the

insides of the top of the pie with water, using fingers and thumbs crimp the edges before

trimming off any surplus pastry from around the top. Some people making small hand raised

pork pies don‟t use a separate lid but instead, after filling the pie, bring the wetted pastry edges

together to seal. In the opinion of the author, which is after all only one opinion, the use of a

separate lid does give a better finished appearance. Once lidded, the pastry top of the pie can be

brushed with some beaten egg mix to enable the top of the pie when baked to have a nice „golden

brown‟ colour. In the case of pork pies it is usual to have a lightly seasoned „meat jelly‟‟ ready

which can be poured into the pie through a small hole broken through the top of the piecrust after

baking. The jelly can be made using pork bones and pig trotters, boiled in water until the rind is

quite soft on the trotters. Once the jelly has been strained away from the bones/trotters it should

be re-boiled with the addition of perhaps a very slight seasoning of salt & pepper. Meat jelly it

must be remembered though can be an ideal growth medium for bacteria and so strictest

standards of hygiene must be maintained. The meat jelly MUST be boiled before use (and then

be permitted to cool a little before putting in the pie) and all implements used must be as near

sterile as possible.

Pork Pie suggested Meat Recipe

The filling for a pork pie has various devotees. Some prefer the meat to be cured (and therefore

having a pinkish colour when cooked) while other insist that the meats used should never be

cured. Some people making pork pies make both kinds to try and satisfy both markets but

usually it is preferable to settle on one or the other and seek to gain a reputation for the product

that you make really well. If the cured type is chosen then the meat needs to be cured prior to

cooking and this may be done either by the use of a „curing mix‟ being spread on the meat

(usually after the first mincing) or by cutting the meat into small pieces and keeping it in a brine

for a short time, usually overnight is enough time but it does depend on how small the pieces of

pork are cut (to enable penetration of the brine). The major variation that this causes is in the

quantity of salt to be used in the seasoning (since the brine or the curing mix will already have

incorporated some salt). Some recipes may be found to include the addition of some cereal or

binder and while this may aid the margin of profit that can be achieved, do try the quality of the

end product before attempting such changes. As with sausage recipes it will be found that there

are many variations on the possible seasonings that can be used.

15

Meat Ingredients:

3kg Pork shoulder meat (70 – 75% Visual lean [V.L.])

3kg Pork belly meat (60%V.L)

1½ kg Pork back fat

(With the modern trend in demands to reduce the fat contents of foods, a variation may be made

where the pork back fat is replaced with a further 1½ kg of pork belly but do try the taste first

since it may be found that the change may be one sacrifice too many).

Where curing mix or brine is used: Where no curing mix is used

(presuming the meat to have been brine cured)

250g Salt 500g Salt

250g ground White Pepper 250g ground White Pepper

75g ground Mace 75g ground Mace

75g ground Sage 75g ground Sage

75g ground Cloves 75g ground Cloves

50g Ground Cayenne 50g ground Cayenne

50g ground Coriander 50g Ground Coriander

(It must be remembered that with the curing (With no curing mix the meat mix

will the meat mix will have a pink colour when have a gray colour when cooked),

cooked).

Method.

Mince the pork shoulder on a fine plate (about 5mm) and the pork belly (and back fat if used) on

a coarser plate (say 10mm). If the meat is to have cure added, spread the meat out and cover

with the cure mix and mix in well. For the meat that has a cure, leave the meat to cure at

least overnight but if the meat is not to be cured then after the various meats have been minced

for the first time the process continues as follows: Mix in well all of the seasonings and then

mince again on a coarse plate (again a 10mm plate) when it will be ready for filling into the pies.

Some people have been known to include some forms of binders such as rusk as an extender

(profit extender?) but if a reputation for quality is sought it may be more advantageous to sell a

really „meaty‟ pie. For another slight change or variation, a „Gala‟ pie would include whole

boiled eggs being layered into the meat mixture before sealing on the lid and baking. Large scale

manufacture of this kind of product can involve further processes to make a „longer‟ Gala pie in

which the egg is pre-formed and laid, almost like a sausage, along the length of the pie. For

small scale production standard boiled eggs in the pie are normally quite acceptable.

16

Steak & Kidney Pies,

Steak & Kidney Puddings,

Minced beef (and Minced Beef & Onion Pies)

Steak & Kidney pies and Minced Beef Pies (sometimes with extra onion added to make it

conform to a minced beef & onion pie but they are basically the same product) both follow

similar procedures, the main difference being in the fillings used. Again, for the purposes of

production it is easier to have a machine to „block‟ out a base and also to crimp on the lid.

However, the pies can again be made without a machine by using a simple pre-formed

aluminium disposable pie tin. The pastry being rolled out and fitted into the tin before the filling

is done. The top of the pie again is wetted with water and, after filling, a lid applied and crimped

to fasten to the pie base before removing any surplus pastry. This is followed by egg washing

with a beaten egg or beaten egg and milk mix on the top of the finished pie for baking. It is

suggested that a short crust pastry be used for this product (but as mentioned, some people

preferring a hot water pastry while others use the traditional cold water pastry) but it is in fact

fairly common for puff pastry to be used for the lid, particularly where the pie is produced in a

dish and the „baked lid‟ is placed on top for serving. The cooking process is quite similar for

both the steak & kidney and the beef and onion mixes. A minced beef pie can be made by using

the similar ingredients but by reducing the onion from 2kg to ½kg if required

Ingredients: (Steak & Kidney Pies) Ingredients: (Minced Beef & Onion Pies)

4kg Lean diced beef (about 10 to 15mm dice) 4kg Lean beef minced through a 5mm plate 1kg Beef kidney, cored, trimmed and diced 2 kg Onion (diced).

(again a fairly small dice) 2 ½ ltr Water

½kg Diced onion 100g Salt;

3 litres Water . 30g White pepper; 100g Salt; 20g Ground sage

30g White pepper; 10g Cayenne

20g Ground sage

10g Cayenne

STEAK & KIDNEY PIES

Melt some fat in a pan and lightly fry the onion until it is becoming soft and „clear‟ in

appearance. Strain the onion of most of the fat and place the beef, kidney, onion and water in a

pan with the seasoning and bring to the boil then allow to simmer for 30 to 40 minutes. If after

this time the gravy isn‟t thick enough, add a small quantity of Cornflour mixed with caramel (to

colour) and a little cold water to provide a thickener for the gravy. Remove the mix from the

heat and allow it to cool before filling into the pie shells that are then covered with a pastry lid

which may be crimped to seal. The completed pies, after being brushed with an egg mixture

17

should be baked at 190°C for about 30 to 40 minutes (when the tops of the pies should be a

golden brown colour.

MINCED BEEF & ONION PIES

Melt some fat in a pan and lightly fry the onion until it is becoming soft and „clear‟ in

appearance. Strain the onion of most of the fat and place the beef, onion and water in a pan with

the seasoning and bring to the boil then allow the mix to simmer for 30 to 40 minutes. Again if

the gravy isn‟t thick enough, a small quantity of Cornflour may be added mixed with caramel (to

colour) and a little cold water to provide a thickener for the gravy once it has boiled again.

Remove the mix from the heat and allow it to cool before filling into the pie shells that are then

covered with a pastry lid which may be crimped to seal. The completed pies, after brushing with

a beaten egg mix should be baked at 190°C for about 30 to 40 minutes (when the tops of the pies

should be a golden brown colour. Other variations on this kind of pie may include steak &

mushroom and even a beef & vegetable pie but if a larger range of products are needed for

the business a simple questionnaire for customers (obviously with some suggestions in it) enable

the products made to match the demands of the customers in the area. The development of the

recipe can be a useful project for the trader to test out their skills to match the needs of the

business. Whatever is done though, DO write down the recipe for comparison later.

STEAK & KIDNEY PUDDINGS

With this product the suet crust pastry is required. The meat mix is prepared as for the Steak &

Kidney Pies. Once again, ideally a small machine is used to „block out‟ the pastry for the

pudding. However, once again, the pastry can be rolled out and then be formed on the inside of a

small pre-formed disposable aluminium pudding dish prior to filling (but although it can be done

for this item it does become far less commercial to do so as the shape of the pudding dishes can

take a few minutes to get a good „form‟ of pastry). It may also be found to be slightly more

difficult as suet crust pastry can be far less forgiving when trying to form or mould it. Fill the

base and after wetting the edges a lid can be applied and be crimped to hold it in place. Once

again, ideally the finished product will be cooked in a steam oven but in the absence of this piece

of equipment they may be placed onto the base of a large pan with water about halfway to two

thirds of the way up the pudding container. The pan is put on the heat and the water brought to

the boil and then the pan is covered and the lid placed on the pan while it simmers for at least 30

minutes. Remove from the heat and allow the puddings to cool before refrigerating. The

finished puddings may be „cooked‟ off by the customer following a similar process to that for the

cooking method shown here. It is advisable to provide some cooking advice for the customer on

selling the puddings.

18

Cornish Pasties

Ingredients:

5kg lean lamb 200g salt

(beef may be used as an alternative) 60g white pepper

5kg potatoes 25g Coriander

1kg onions 25g Sage

1kg carrots

Method

The meat may be either minced through a coarse plate or diced quite small. Preferences for

either method appear to vary with each person who makes these products. Try both ways and

choose the one that you prefer. Cook the meat for about 20 minutes simmering gently. Lightly

pre-cook the vegetables (do not fully cook them or they will „mash‟ during the further

processing) and then dice the vegetables or mince through a 10mm plate. Again the two ways,

mince or dice, do appear to depend on the individual preference. In some cases the vegetables

have been known to have been sliced thinly prior to light cooking after which they are strained of

water and mixed with the meat and seasoning. In some Cornish pasties recipes some swede has

been known to be used as a replacement for some of the potato to give a slightly different taste

and texture. Again, try the different ways to find a product that suits your own (or your

customers) taste. Mix the seasoning well with the meat/vegetable mixture and set aside. Again,

personal preference appears to indicate to some people that a short crust pastry should be use

while others prefer a rough puff pastry. The authors‟ preference is for short crust pastry.

Whichever pastry is used though, roll out the pastry and cut into circles (usually about 6” (15cm)

in diameter) but the size may vary depending on the size of Cornish pasty wanted. Place some of

the filling on one half of the pastry and after wetting the edges of the circle well with water, fold

the pastry over to make the seal with the other edge of the circle and then crimp the edges

together to hold the seal. Brush a beaten egg, or egg and milk mixture over the finished pasty‟s

and bake at 180°C for 30 minutes or until the crust is a golden brown.

Once again further varieties can be developed within the general framework of this product and

may include items such as steak pasties, cheese & Onion Pasties etc. The customer preference

must dictate the range and types of product best suited to the particular business.

19

Sausage Rolls

Ingredients & Method:

Usually a simple Pork Sausage (but other types of sausage or sausage meat may be used if

required. Indeed it may often be found that a different flavoured sausage meat can make a

serious difference to the finished product). Once again there may be a preference for either short

crust or rough puff pastry and this is a matter of taste, possibly on this occasion falling in favour

of rough puff pastry.

Roll out the pastry and cut lengthwise to give strips about 12cm to 15cm wide. Place either

skinless sausages, or sausage meat rolled out to about 15 to 20mm diameter rolls, lengthwise on

the pastry not quite at the centre of the width of the pastry. Wet the pastry down both external

lengths and then bring the top „flap‟ down over the roll of sausage meat and crimp closed

(usually leaving a short crimped „flap‟. Cut the sausage rolls into the length required (for a

single sausage roll and then brush the top with beaten egg, or egg and milk mixture. Bake at

180°C for about 30 minutes until they are golden brown in colour.

SAUSAGES, SALAMI AND OTHER MEAT DELIGHTS

Sausages, a name, and a product, that has so many different meanings to so many people.

Depending upon the country, the region within a country and even the local tastes or even

preferences within such a region, a sausage is capable of being a staple food requirement for

many people. The meat content itself can vary so very much, from 100% meat content (less a

fraction perhaps for spices and seasonings) or the cheap and cheerful „banger‟ with perhaps a

questionable meat content which can at best satisfy only the least discriminating of tastes. It may

be strongly spiced, very lightly spiced, mouth-wateringly full of the taste of herbs, be smoked, be

eaten cold or be eaten hot. A sausage may contain the meats only from one animal species or it

may include a mixture of meats from several species. However, a sausage should never be a

repository for old, dark, discoloured meat or meat of either questionable quality or origin. A

good sausage deserves only the best ingredients in it since a good sausage can indeed become

either the basis of a memorable meal or indeed a quality snack in itself or equally, the basis of a

good ongoing business, or a recipe for disaster.

Some meat trade skills may have diminished along with the number of “local butchers‟ shops”

over the past few decades. One of those skills was the manufacture of the „in house sausage‟.

Some retailers have realised this error and do try to regain that ground, along with the reputation

20

for a local „high quality sausage‟. Many of the small shops that do try to produce their own

sausages will almost certainly have a mincing machine but it is possible that they may be

unlikely to have the benefit of a bowl chopper. Therefore, in the following recipes, where

possible, a method of production without using a bowl chopper has been included for some kinds

of sausages. Once binders have been joined by the meats, fats and seasonings a good mixing by

hand and second mincing of it all can produce in most cases a satisfactory product. While a

bowl chopper is ideally recommended for making many sausages, and is indeed necessary for

some sausages (some Continental sausages and salami‟s in particular require that an emulsion be

created and the only practical way to do this is with the use of a bowl chopper), other general

type sausages can adequately be made using a mincing machine and hand-filling machine (or

even a simple nozzle attachment fitted to the mincing machine).

Bowl choppers themselves can vary in the types of work that they are capable of and in the

recipes that follow the bowl chopper referred to is a simple 3 or 6 blade machine, not a high

powered vacuum bowl chopper as may well be used by the large specialist manufacturer. Where

bowl chopping is included in the following suggested methods, the amount of time in the bowl

chopper has been given in terms of „revolutions‟ of the bowl. This though itself may be

dependent to a large extent on the actual bowl chopper being used and it is advisable to check the

mixture until quite confident that the number of revolutions suggested in this text does bear a

reasonably accurate relation to the mix required and the bowl chopper being used. Obviously,

once the operator is used to the mix being achieved with the bowl chopper, amendments can be

made to the recipe in order that a consistency of mix will be achieved for the all of the sausages

produced, possibly by means of counting the number of bowl chopper revolutions to achieve this

mix.

As mentioned, it is possible to fit a filling nozzle onto a small mincing machine but while this

may well suffice to try and examine the potential of „in house sausage‟ production it could well

appear to be somewhat „penny pinching‟ if the demand for the product is proved. Small hand

operated filling machines‟, either vertical or horizontal cylinder types are quite readily available

and are not costly. If the product is correct and creates a demand then the initial expense can be

well worth the outlay.

Some of the recipes here do include sausages that require smoking and here there may be a little

more of a problem for the small shop. However, the recipes have still been included just in case

the small shopkeeper should at some time decide to expand a little and perhaps include smoking

facilities in their expansion. Some small modern smoke units can be acquired which do not

require a large amount of space but they do need to be situated in an area which can be ventilated

fairly easily. With a number of the sausages that require smoking there is also a slight problem,

though not insurmountable, in that of „cure mixes‟. Saltpetre itself (sodium nitrate) which is

21

often referred to as one of the basic components of curing can now only rarely be obtained

(due to its other use as an ingredient in the making of explosives!), so although a mix using

Sodium nitrite is usually suggested as an alternative this substance is also difficult to obtain

(for similar reasons) so it may probably be easier incorporate instead a proprietary curing mix

as a substitute, always of course ensuring that it does contain some of the similar

ingredients. This message has been repeated on each of the recipes as a reminder for those

who do seek to experiment.

Recipes it must be remembered are merely recorded „suggestions‟ of ingredients and methods of

producing a consistent product. In many cases it is worth experimenting with a recipe in order to

discover they type of product that a particular market demands. Some markets may prefer less

seasoning, others, more seasoning. In most of the following suggested recipes the quantity of

salt has generally been reduced in order to comply with current trends in reducing the Sodium

(mainly in the form of salt) intakes in the diet. Similarly, the amount of fat suggested in some

old recipes is far higher than the quantities suggested here. Reductions have again been made in

order to try and conform to the modern trend of „reduced fat content‟ but do remember that

many meat research bodies in the past have demonstrated a positive relationship between the

mouth watering aroma of cooking meat with a higher fat content. Some reductions then may be

necessary but it should be remembered that while this may satisfy the health conscious it may not

always satisfy the „taste‟ of the customer. It is always best to „try‟ the recipe yourself and, if in

your opinion it requires adjustment, do just that - but do record the details of the adjustment. The

customer in the end count is the person who keeps the business going so that taste MUST be

paramount. Sometimes it can be found that a slight change in „taste‟ can be found to be

favourable and increase demand. While this is true, it must be remembered that the opposite

may also be true, that a change of taste may deter customers. In order to avoid this, any changes

in recipe formulation should be noted by a slight change in name, in order that customers may be

aware. They may be interested in providing feedback information on the changed taste. Any

such feedback should be listened to and acted upon.

Little has been included on sausage casings. These can in themselves be worth a discussion by

themselves as the preference for „natural‟ casings against „collagen‟ or the „synthetic‟ type is fast

becoming legend.

In general, narrow natural casings (from about 15mm upwards to about 28mm) are obtained

from the sheep intestines, varying in diameter where the larger of them may overlap slightly

with the smaller of the pig intestines (which start at about 30mm and go up to about 45mm). The

bung, from both sheep and pigs did use to be traditionally used for the production of liver

sausages and some other cooked sausages and some salami products. Sheep stomachs, notably

22

the first stomach or Rumen, while not being a true „sausage casing‟ is now often associated with

the container for the production of haggis. Beef casings being larger, where used were

associated with the very large types of cooked sausages with a diameter of up to 70mm. All of

the natural casings are normally obtained in a salted pack where the casings are supplied in

bundles that have been preserved in a coarse salt and need to be well soaked to remove some of

the salt before use.

Of the synthetic casings there are cellulose casings, collagen casings, fibrous casings and some

plastic types of casings where they may be supplied pre-coloured or printed if required so that

they represent the name of the supplier when the products are sold. The range of the various

synthetic casings is large and the manufacturers of these products are only too willing to offer

advice on their usage. Once again, it can be a case of trying both kinds, natural and synthetic

and then making up your own mind but it is worth bearing in mind that most top of the range

quality sausages do tend to stick to using natural casings. That doesn‟t mean that synthetic

casings are wrong, just that they haven‟t been utilised for those products.

Just a few recipes follow merely, as suggestions, but as has been said earlier, this list should not

be taken as anything like a „full listing‟ since many variations may be found, even for the

sausage recipes that are given here, and there are certainly many more types of sausages and

meat items than the ones that have been suggested in the following samples. If a „new product‟ is

made by varying a recipe, either one of these or any other, DO write down the details so that in

years to come people may be able to enjoy the product that you have developed. Secrets may

have some benefits but secret recipes can eventually deny others the pleasure of a successful

product that you may have developed. Once again the change in public awareness of health

aspects must be stressed and do examine the salt levels and the fat levels to see if they can be

adjusted to provide products that are more „acceptable‟ but do not put at risk the reputation of the

product by adjusting the recipe to conform with perhaps only one or two „occasional‟ customers

while denying the preferred product to the majority of your customers.

23

Fresh Sausages

PORK SAUSAGE (1)

(Meat & Binder) (Spices & Seasonings)

3 kg lean pork 75g Salt,

1½ kg Skinned Belly Pork 25g Ground White Pepper,

½ kg Pork Back Fat 10g Ground Mace,

½ kg Rusk 10g Ground Nutmeg

1 kg Water 10g Ground Coriander

Method without using Bowl Chopper

Mix the seasoning with the dry Rusk and add the water, mix well and set aside. Mince the lean

meat through a fine mince plate (3mm if possible) and mince the Belly Pork through a coarser

plate (perhaps 10mm). Thoroughly mix the meat with the damp seasoned rusk and mince again

on the coarser plate before filling into hog casings and linking. Leave the linked sausage to „set‟

for a minimum of 2 hours

Method using Bowl Chopper

As above but after mincing all of the meats for the first time on the different plates put the meat

into the bowl chopper and run for 3 revolutions. Add the seasoned binder evenly across the mix

in the bowl chopper and run for a further 4 revolutions. Fill as above

PORK SAUSAGE (2)


5.5kg Lean Pork 100g Salt

1kg Rindless pork belly 25g Ground White Pepper,

1kg Rusk 20g Ground Mace,

2 kg Water 10g Ground Ginger,

10g Ground Sage


Mix the seasoning with the dry Rusk and add the water. Mix well and leave to stand for 10

minutes. Mince the meat first on a 5mm plate and then on a fine plate (about 3mm If possible).

Put the seasoned Rusk with the meat and mix well before mincing again on a fine (3mm) plate

before filling into hog casings before linking. Leave the linked sausage to stand for at least 2

hours.


As above but after mincing all of the meats on the 5mm plates put the meat into the bowl

chopper and run for 3 revolutions. Add the seasoned binder evenly across the mix in the bowl

chopper and run for a further 4 revolutions. Fill as above

24

PORK SAUSAGE (3)


61/2 kg Lean Pork 75g Salt,

1 kg Rindless pork belly 35g Ground White Pepper

1½ kg Rusk 10g Sage

21/2 kg Water 10g Ground Pimento,

10g Ground Marjoram


Mix the seasonings with the dry rusk and add the water and mix thoroughly. Leave to stand for

about 10 minutes. Mince the meat on a medium plate (about 5mm) and add the rusk seasoning

mixture and mix well before re-mincing on the same size plate and filling into hog casings and

linking. Leave the linked sausage hanging in the chiller to let them „set‟ for a minimum of 2

hours.


As above but after mincing all of the meats for the first time on the 5mm plates put the meat into

the bowl chopper and run for 3 revolutions. Add the seasoned binder evenly across the mix in the

bowl chopper and run for a further 4 revolutions. Fill as above

TOMATO PORK SAUSAGE


5 kg lean pork 100g salt,

1 kg rindless belly pork 20g Ground Nutmeg

1 kg Rusk 20g Ground Mace,

1½ kg water 20g Ground Sage

250g Concentrated tomato puree ** **Note: Some recipes replace the tomato puree with 2 cans of chopped plum tomato but the puree does appear to

give a more noticeable flavour and be a preferable method.




mixture (including tomato puree) and mix well before re-mincing on the same size plate and

filling into hog casings and linking. Leave the linked sausage hanging in the chiller to let them

„set‟ for a minimum of 2 hours.


As above but after mincing all of the meats the first time put the meat into the bowl chopper and

run for 3 revolutions. Add the seasoned binder evenly across the mix in the bowl chopper and

run for a further 4 revolutions. Fill as above.

25

CUMBERLAND SAUSAGE


4½ kg Lean Pork 100g Salt

2 kg Skinned Belly Pork 25g Ground Black pepper

1 kg Pork Back fat 10g Ground Rosemary

½ kg Rusk 10g Ground Thyme,

¾ kg Water 10g Ground Nutmeg

10g Dried Ground Sage

5g Cayenne Pepper


This is intended to be a coarse cut, high meat content sausage and doesn‟t always have any rusk

as a binder. However, it is always better with these particular sausages, to at least minimise the

binder and keep the meat content high. Mix the seasoning with the dry rusk and then add the

water. Mix well and put aside for about 10 minutes. Mince the all the pork and fat through a

medium to coarse plate (about 10mm) and add all of the seasonings, mix well before mincing

again on a 10mm plate. Fill into sheep casings. This sausage is laid out in a „ring‟ and is not

(normally) linked. Leave the sausage to set for 2 to 3 hours.


As above but after mincing the all the pork and fat (keeping them separate) through a medium to

coarse plate (about 10mm) put the pork into the bowl chopper and run for 2 revolutions. Add the

seasoned binder evenly across t he mix in the bowl chopper with the minced fat and run for a

further 2 revolutions. Fill as above

LICOLNSHIRE SAUSAGE


4 ½ kg Lean Pork 100g Salt,

1kg Pork belly (rindless) 90g Dried Sage,

¾ kg Rusk 30g Ground White Pepper

1¼ kg Water




mixture and mix well before re-mincing on the same size plate and filling into hog casings and

linking. Leave the linked sausage hanging in the chiller to let them „set‟ for a minimum of 2

hours.


As above but after mincing the all the meat through a medium plate (about 8mm) put the meat

into the bowl chopper and run for 3 revolutions. Add the seasoned binder evenly across the mix

26

in the bowl chopper and run for 3 revolutions. Fill as above

CHIPOLATA SAUSAGE


5½ kg Lean Pork 200g Salt,

1¾ kg Pork Back Fat 50g Ground White Pepper,

1 kg Rusk 20g Ground Coriander

2 kg Water 10g each of Ground pimento, Nutmeg,

& Thyme

5g Ground Cayenne


Mix the seasoning with the dry rusk then add the water, mix well and put aside for about 10

minutes. Mince all of the meat and fat through a fine mince plate (about 3mm if possible), mix

the seasoned binder with the meat and mix well before re-mincing through the same plate. Fill

into fairly narrow sheep casings. Link the filled sausage at about 16 sausages to the lb and leave

to set for about 2 hours.


As above but after mincing the all the pork and fat through a 3mm plate place it into the bowl

chopper and run for 4 revs. add the seasoned binder evenly across the mix in the bowl chopper

and run for a further 3 revolutions. Fill as above

COCKTAIL SAUSAGES


5½ kg Lean Pork 250g Salt,

1¾ kg Skinned Pork Belly 100g Ground White Pepper,

1 kg Pork Back Fat 28g Ground Coriander

1 kg Lean Beef 25g Ground Mace,

1 kg Rusk 10g Ground Nutmeg,

2 kg Water 10g Ground Thyme

5g Ground Marjoram Some recipes suggest that the same ingredients that are given for the chipolata can be used but ideally, the

cocktail sausage needs to carry a little more salt and spice. Equally, some recipes will suggest even greater

quantities of salt and pepper than are shown here so it is worth doing some experiments to see what kind of

market is asking for them. Do remember though the implications in the current climate of health awareness of

the excesses of salt in a product.


Mix the seasoning with the dry rusk then add the water, mix well and put aside for about 10

minutes. Mince all of the meat through a fine mince plate (about 3mm if possible), mix the

seasoned binder with the meat and mix well before re-mincing through the same plate. Fill into

fairly narrow sheep casings. Link the filled product to create about 32 sausages to the lb (my

27

apologies for going Imperial on this occasion) and leave to set for about 2 hours.


As above but after mincing the all the pork and fat through a 3mm plate place it into the bowl

chopper and run for 4 revolutions, add the seasoned binder evenly across the mix in the bowl

chopper and run for a further 3 revolutions. Fill as above

BEEF SAUSAGE (1)


4kg Lean Beef 200g Salt,

1kg Rindless Pork belly 75g Ground White Pepper,

1kg Rusk 50g Ground Ginger

2kg Water 50g Ground Mace,

50g Ground Nutmeg

50g Ground Sage,

25g Ground Coriander


Mix the seasonings with the dry rusk, add the water and mix well then put aside for about 10

minutes. Mince the beef through a 5mm plate and fat through a 10mm plate and mix in the

seasoned rusk. Mix well and re mince through the 10mm plate. Filling can be either into Hog

casings or medium to wide sheep casings.


As above but after mincing the all the beef and fat (keeping them separate) put the beef into the

bowl chopper and run for 2 revolutions. Add the seasoned binder evenly to the mix in the bowl

chopper and run for 2 revs. Add the minced fat and run for a further 2 revolutions. Fill as above

BEEF SAUSAGE (2)


4 ½ kg Lean Beef 200g Salt,

11/2kg Rindless Pork belly 150g Ground White Pepper,

1½ kg Rusk 50g Ground Nutmeg,

3 kg Water 25g each of Ground Ginger,

Ground Mace, Ground Sage &

Ground Cayenne


Mix the seasonings with the dry rusk, add the water and mix well then put aside for about 10

minutes. Mince the beef through a 3mm plate and the fat through a 10mm plate and mix in the

seasoned rusk. Mix well and re mince through the 10mm plate. Filling can be either into Hog

casings or medium to wide sheep casings.

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As above but after mincing the all the beef and fat (keeping them separate) put the beef into the

bowl chopper and run for 3 revolutions. Add the seasoned binder evenly across the mix in the

bowl chopper and run for 2 revolutions. Add the minced fat and run for a further 2 revolutions.

Fill as above

PRODUCTS REQUIRING SOME COOKING BEFORE SALE

BLACK PUDDING


7 kg Fresh Pigs Blood 500g salt,

3½ kg Pork Flare Fat 225g Ground White Pepper,

750g Pearl Barley 125g Ground Pimento

600g Flour 125g Ground Coriander,

750g Oatmeal 125g Ground Mustard,

1kg Onion 35g Celery Seeds

Method

If using Fresh blood, do make sure that the blood has been „well stirred‟ to ensure that it is free

of any „stringiness‟. If you are using dried blood, reconstitute or mix as the instructions given

with the product being used. Put the blood into a large bowl. Dice the onion and lightly cook in

water, strain and put aside. Cut the flare fat into small diced size pieces and scald and strain. Put

the fat aside. Put the pearl barley, flour, oatmeal, onions, fat and seasonings into the blood and

mix well ensuring a good even mix throughout. Using a wide hog casing and a funnel (inserted

into the end of the casing, fill the mixture into the casing. Tie off into rings of about 1lb using

string and cook at 82°C for about 45 minutes. Do not cook at high temperatures as this may

cause the puddings to burst. The cooked pudding can be tested to see if it is cooked by inserting a

needle into one of the rings. If there is no material oozing out, the puddings are cooked.

Alternatively, use a thermometer and ensure a deep product temperature of at least 72°C. Hang

the cooked puddings and after allowing cooling, then chill overnight. An alternative more

commonly seen on the continent of Europe includes the addition of some cooked, skinned pigs

tongue cut into small pieces being put in the mixture before filling. This does not appear to be as

popular in Mainland U.K. Consider the salt content here in view of current demands and then try

various slight adjustments to produce an acceptable product both to satisfy both taste and public

awareness reasons.

29

HAGGIS


4kg Cooked lamb pluck meat 100g Salt

(Lungs, heart, liver & melt) 50g Ground white pepper

1½kg Beef suet 25g Ground Nutmeg

2kg Oatmeal

750g Diced Onion

Method

Using a lamb pluck, remove windpipe (trachea) and the major bronchial tubes and retain the

heart, liver, melt (spleen) and some of the softer parts of the lungs. Dice all of these into

reasonably large pieces and with the onion, place into water and bring to the boil. Simmer for

about 20 minutes and then strain. Mix the oatmeal into a paste using some meat stock and mix

all of the ingredients together before mincing on a 5mm plate. Fill the mixture into sheep

bungs (or stomach) and sew up any openings. Put the filled haggis into water and bring to the

boil and gently cook allowing about 45 minutes per ½ kg of product. Remove from the boil and

cool the haggis before refrigerating.

PRODUCTS DEFINITELY NEEDING A BOWL

CHOPPER

From here, the mincer continues to be required but with many items it is impractical to try and

produce the products without the aid of a bowl chopper. The texture of the finished product

requires the action that can be achieved by bowl chopping and this texture cannot be simulated

by mincing alone. No method will therefore be shown for „making without a bowl chopper.’

POLONY


4½kg Lean Pork 100g Salt,

1kg Pork Back Fat 50g Ground White Pepper,

½ kg Rice Flour 20g Ground Mace,

½ kg Rusk 20g Ground Coriander,

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1kg Boiling Water 10g Ground Nutmeg

10g Ground Cinnamon

Method

Scald the rice flour with the boiling water and then put the lean pork into the bowl chopper and

run for 3 revolutions, add the seasoning and run for a further 2 revolutions. Add the scalded rice

flour fat and the dry rusk and run for a further 3 or 4 revolutions. Fill the mixture into beef

runners, tying off at about 500g lengths that are then tied into rings. Place the filled rings into

water at 82°C and cook for 40 minutes. Dip the cooked rings into a polony red dye mixture

which is held at the same temperature and then cool in iced water to start the setting of the

mixture and hang the rings in a chiller to finish the setting overnight.

LIVER SAUSAGE (1) (non-smoked)


3½kg Trimmed Pigs Liver 150g Salt,

3kg Pork Back Fat 50g Ground White Pepper,

225g Cornflour 35g Marjoram,

½ kg Onion (Diced) 25g Powdered Garlic

10g Ground Pimento,

10g Ground Nutmeg,

Method

Dice the liver and scald. Dice all of the fat and place with all of the other ingredients into the

bowl chopper. Run the bowl chopper until the mixture is reduced to a fine paste. Fill the mixture

lightly into large hog casings (or 50mm collagen casings) tying off into rings of about ½ kg or

„sticks‟ of about ½ kg and cook at 82°C for 45 to 50 minutes with a light weight on top of them

in order to keep them below the surface of the water. Remove & place into cold water for initial

chill. Remove from the water and spread out in chiller overnight to complete the chill and set.

HASLET


3kg Lean Pork 250g Salt,

1½kg Pork Back Fat 50g Ground Black Pepper,

2kg Trimmed Pigs Pluck 50g Ground Sage

(Lungs, heart, & liver) 50g Coriander,

2kg Onions 25g Powdered Garlic

1½kg Water

1kg Rusk

Pigs Caul Fat

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Method

Mix the seasonings with the dry rusk then add the water, mix well and put aside. The pigs‟ pluck

must be trimmed of the major cartilaginous tissue of the bronchial vessels. Cut the pluck into

smallish pieces, mixing the various items well though (lungs, heart and liver) and put aside. Skin

and dice the onion and put aside. Dice the pork back fat before scalding and put aside. Place the

meat and seasoned rusk and diced onion into the bowl chopper and run for 3 revolutions. Add the

diced fat and run for a further 3 revolutions. Remove from the bowl chopper and, laying a piece

of caul fat onto a work surface, form some of the mixture into a loaf shape and place onto the

caul fat, wrapping the remainder of the caul fat around it. Place the wrapped „loaves‟ into a

roasting tin and roast in a moderately hot oven 200°C for 1 hour or until the loaves are well

browned on top (in particular) and have an internal temperature reading of over 73°C. Remove

from the oven and allow an initial cool before chilling overnight. Some recipes suggest painting

the outside of the hot finished loaves with a caramel mixture to enhance colour but this should

not be necessary.

DRIED AND/OR SMOKED MEATS & SAUSAGES

A number of the following recipes require a ‘curing mix’ to be added to the prepared meat prior to further

processing. This is added at least 12 hours and sometimes 24 hours (or more) before in order to achieve the

marinating effects needed on the meat. It will be noticed that in general they require the inclusion of saltpetre

(sodium nitrate) in this mix. However, saltpetre itself cannot easily be obtained, so although a mix using

sodium nitrite is suggested here, in view of this problem it may probably be easier to accept that the use of a

proprietary curing mix will have to be substituted. This should be acceptable, always ensuring of course that

the mix does also contain some of the other, or similar, ingredients.

LUNCHEON MEAT


1½kg Lean Beef 100g Salt,

1½kg Lean Pork 20g Dextrose,

1kg Beef or Pork fat 20g Ground White Pepper,

¾kg Rusk 10g each of Ground Nutmeg,

400 g Rice Flour Ground Mace &

1¼ kg Water Ground Coriander,

Method

Mix the seasoning with the rice flour and dry rusk, add the water, mix well and put aside. Mince

the beef and pork on a medium to fine plate (about 3mm or 5mm) and mince the fat on a 10mm

plate. Put the pork and beef mince in the bowl chopper and run for 4 revolutions then add the

soaked, seasoned rusk/cornflower mix and run for a further 2 revolutions. Add the minced fat

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and run for another 2 revolutions. Take out the mix and fill either into a beef bung or a 100 to

120mm synthetic casing. Cook the filled luncheon meat in water at 83°C for 1¼ hrs If the

luncheon meat is to be smoked, cook for 1¾ hrs if un-smoked. Hot smoke for about 2 hrs

(optionally select the product here, smoked luncheon meat or un-smoked luncheon meat, there

may be a local preference) .

SAVELOYS


3kg Lean Beef or Pork 250g Salt,

2kg Lean Pork 100g Ground White Pepper,

1kg Pork Fat 10g each of Ground Mace, Ginger

2kg Rusk and Cinnamon

3kg Water

Method

Mix the seasonings with the dry rusk, add the water and mix well then put aside for 10 minutes.

Mince the meats and the fat on a fine plate (about 3mm) keeping the fat separate from the lean

meat. Put the lean meats into the bowl chopper and run for 3 revolutions, add the seasoned,

soaked rusk and run for 2 more revolutions. Add the minced fat and run for another 3

revolutions. Take out the mix and fill into hog casings and twist-link to allow the product to be

hung from a rod in the smoke chamber. To twist link, taking a sausage length, grip and nip then

twist the sausage to the right. Leave another sausage length and then nip and twist to the left,

laying the linked sausage on the table to create a „loop‟ laid on the table, with care, place a rod

through the loop and lifting both ends of the rod take the hanging sausages to the smoke

chamber. Smoke in a fairly hot smoke for about 30 minutes and then place the smoked sausage

into hot water at 83°C to cook for a further 30 minutes. Remove from the cooker and after

allowing an initial cooling period place into the chiller for 2 hours to chill down.

POTATO SAUSAGE


2kg Lean Beef 70g Salt,

1kg Lean Pork 30g Ground White Pepper,

1kg Pork Back Fat 30g Ground Mace,

3kg Boiled, Peeled Potatoes 15g Ground Ginger,

½ kg Onion 10g Ground Sage

Method

Cube the Pork Back Fat. Mince the Beef, Pork and Potatoes through an 8mm mince plate and

place into the bowl chopper with the seasoning and the cubed back fat. Run the bowl chopper for

4 or 5 revolutions to mix well but do not break the mix down too fine. Fill into hog casings and

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then hold in a brine solution for about 4 hours. Twist-link the filled skins to make into sausages

each of about 6 inch in length. Cook gently at about 83°C for 20 minutes and then give a light

smoke of about 1 hour.

BOLOGNA

Curing Mix: 225g Salt, 25g Sodium Nitrite (e250), 10g Brown Sugar 20ml water


4½ kg Beef 60g Ground White Pepper,

1½ kg Pork Back Fat 30g Ground Nutmeg,

1kg Plain Flour 10g each of Ground Ginger,

1kg Cornflour Mace, Coriander and

½kg Rusk Marjoram

4kg Iced Water

Method

Using a coarse plate (10mm or 15mm) mince all of the Beef and mix well with the curing

mixture and leave to cure for 48 hours. Mix the seasonings with the dried cereals and then add

the water ensuring that a good mix is achieved. This should result in a smooth paste. Dice the

Pork Back Fat. Put the cured meat into the bowl chopper spreading the seasonings and the

flour/corn flour/rusk water paste evenly. Run the bowl chopper for about 4 revolutions and then

add the diced Back Fat and run for a further 3 or 4 revolutions. Fill into beef bungs or synthetic

casings then smoke for 3 hours in a heavy smoke. The smoked sausage should then be cooked in

water containing an approved brown dye at a temperature of 80°C for 3 hours. The finished

product needs to have an initial cool before being chilled to 2 to 4°C ready for sale.

LIVER SAUSAGE (2)

(Meat) (Spices & Seasonings)

4½ kg Pig Liver 225g Salt,

1kg Skinless Pork belly 30g Ground White Pepper,

1kg Bacon Fat 15g Garlic,

½ kg Onion 10g each of Ground Ginger,

1kg Pork bones or and Marjoram,

Boned pig heads 5g ea of Ground Cinnamon &

Ground cloves

Method

Place each of the items, Pork belly, Bacon fat and bones into a segmented pan (or alternatively

use cooking nets, each item being held in a separate net.) and cook, barely covering with water.

Cook the bones for 2 hours, the belly for 40 minutes and the bacon fat about 15 minutes. Peel

34

and dice the onion and fry off in lard and then, along with the raw liver, mince on a fine plate

(about 3mm) and place into the bowl chopper. The Pork Belly and bacon fat are minced through

a coarser plate (about 10mm) and then, along with the seasoning added to the bowl chopper. Run

the bowl chopper for a minimum of 8 revolutions until the entire mass is a fine paste. Fill the

mixture into hog bungs and cook at 75°C for 1½ hrs. Chill the cooked sausage and when cooled,

cold smoke at 45°C for 5 to 6 hours. With this kind of product, the water used in the initial

cooking is sometimes further boiled to reduce and a little may be added when the mixture is

going into the bowl chopper.

ITALIAN TYPE SALAMI

Curing Mix: 125g salt, 20g Sodium nitrite (e250), 30g Brown Sugar, 20ml water


3kg Lean Beef 50g Ground White Pepper,

5kg Lean Pork 50g Whole White Peppercorns,

2kg Pork Back Fat 30g Fresh Garlic

Method

Mince the beef through a 10mm plate along with the garlic, mix well and return to the chiller for

at least three hours. Mince the pork through the 10mm plate and then mince the beef again, this

time through a 3mm plate. Thoroughly mix the meat with the cure mix (the mixing is very

important and it is necessary that it is well mixed) and the seasoning and pack the mixture in

trays in layers about 6” deep. Leave the mix packed in the trays to permit the cure to take effect,

which is usually about 2 days (and the meat will start to take on a brighter red colour). Fill the

mix quite tightly into hog bungs and after filling wrap the outside with good string at 20mm

intervals. Leave the sausages hanging to set for a further 48 hours then cool smoke for 12 hours.

The finished salami should be hung with plenty of breathing space around them and left to

mature for 8 to 10 weeks.

CERVELAT

Curing Mix: 150g salt, 20g Sodium nitrite, 20ml water


9kg Lean Beef 55g Ground White Pepper,

2¾kg Boneless Hand of Pork 20g Coriander, 10g each of

Ground Nutmeg, Ground

Cardamom &

Ground Marjoram

Method

Mince the beef and the pork through a 10mm plate and in order to get a good even mix, spread

35

all of the mince out on a table and mix in well the cure and the seasoning. Pack the mix into a

storage tray and hold for 48 to 72 hours. Mince again on a 3mm plate and fill into hog casings

and twist link into 12 to 14” links to prepare for smoking. Cool smoke the sausages for 12 hours

at about 50°C and chill with a water spray. Hang the sausage to mature for about 1 week.

FRANKFURTERS

Curing Mix: 200g salt, 25g Sodium nitrite, 30g Brown Sugar, 20ml water


7 kg Pork 75g Ground White Pepper,

3½ kg Lean Beef 15g Ground Mace,

3½ kg leg of Beef 15g Ground Coriander,

3 kg Cooked pork rind 15g Ground Ginger,

1 kg Farina 15g Ground Marjoram.

4 kg crushed ice

Method

All of the beef and pork may be minced on a coarse mince plate (10mm) and the curing mixture

added, ensuring a thorough mixing. Leave the cured meat to rest for 24 hours. Place all of the

meats into the bowl chopper and run it for 6 or 7 revolutions. Mix the seasoning with the cereal

and, with the bowl chopper running, add the seasoned cereal. Add the cooked rind and then the

crushed ice and keep the bowl chopper running until all of the water has been taken up. Fill the

mixture into sheep casings and twist link them so that they can be suspended on a rod. Leave the

rods of sausages to dry off for about 1 to 1½ hrs and then smoke to achieve the desired colour.

Cook the smoked sausage in water at 75°C for 20 to 30 minutes then plunge into cold water

before placing into chill.

CHORIZOS

Curing Mix: 150g salt, 15g Sodium nitrite, 30g Brown Sugar. 250ml white vinegar


3kg Lean Beef 50g Ground mild Paprika,

3kg Lean Pork trim 25g Ground Red Pepper,

2¾kg Fat Pork Trim 25g Chilli Powder,

10g Cinnamon &

10g Fresh Garlic,

Method

Mince the beef through a 5mm plate and the pork through a 10mm plate. Mix both meats

together thoroughly and add the curing mixture (with the vinegar) ensuring that a thorough mix

is achieved. Pack the meat into a tray to hold for the curing period (48 to 72 hours) until the meat

achieves a good deep red colour. After curing, spread out the meat, add the seasoning and mix

36

again quite thoroughly before filling into hog casings, twist linking into sausages of about 6 to 8”

in length. The linked sausages are smoked for about 6 hours at a medium temperature of about

65 to 70°C. Hang the smoked sausage with plenty of air around them to mature for about 5 to 7

days. This is just one recipe for Chorizo sausages but there are many, many more. Some of the

recipes relate the sausage to various individual countries, such as Portuguese, Spanish and

Mexican etc. It can be quite interesting to try some of the different recipes and to taste the

difference!

CACCIATORI SAUSAGES (small salami)

Curing Mix: 75g salt, 15g Sodium nitrite, 20g Dextrose, 20ml water.


3kg Pork leg 75g Milk Powder

1½kg Lean Beef (Chuck) 20g Coriander Seeds

¾kg Pork back fat 10g each of Black Pepper, White

Pepper, Mace & Garlic

Method

Make sure that all of the meat and fat is well chilled, probably as low as –4°C before mincing.

Mince on a coarse plate, about 10 or 12mm, keeping the meat separate from the fat. Mince the

fat and the meat again but through a 4mm plate, still keeping them separate. Mix the starter

culture with the water and then mix all of it with the meat and then refrigerate for 8 hours. Mix

the rest of the seasonings with the fat and then mix the fat in with the meat ensuring a thorough

mix is achieved. Fill into beef runners or alternatively 45mm collagen casings and twist link at

about 15cm lengths to put onto a smoking rod and in doing so it may help later to incorporate

a continuous length of string in the linking to connect all of the sausages. Smoke for about 12

hours at 80°C and then remove and leave to dry at ambient of about 50 to 60°C. The sausages

may develop a fine white mould during their ageing which is quite normal. A weight loss of

some 30% will occur before they are fully ready.

THURINGERS (1)

Curing mix: 150g Sodium nitrite, 50g Dextrose, 25ml vinegar


2.0kg Beef chuck 50 g Salt

1.5kg Beef plate meat 20g Black pepper

1.5kg Pork shoulder 5g each of Ground Ginger,

50ml water whole mustard seed and

Ground Nutmeg

Method

Coarse mince the beef (on a 10 or 15mm plate). Mix the curing mix with the beef and refrigerate

37

for at least 2 hours. Mince the beef with the pork through a 3 or 4mm plate and mix the rest of

the ingredients (along with the water) into the minced meats and refrigerate again for a further 2

hours. Fill the mix into hog casings and link the filled sausage to put it onto a smoking rod.

Allow the filled sausage to come to room temperature. Place a bowl of water in the smoke

chamber and pre-heat the smoker to 38°C. Place the rods of sausages into the smoker and take

the temperature up to 70°C and maintain at this until an internal temperature of the sausage of at

least 65°C is achieved and then maintain this for a further 30 minutes. Remove the sausages from

the smoker and allow the temperature to reduce to room temperature before storing in the chiller.

FAGGOTS (SAVOURY DUCKS)


3kg Beef trim (60%V.L.) 200g Salt,

3kg Pork trim (60%V.L.) 35g Ground White Pepper,

1½kg Rusk 35g Ground Ginger,

1kg Onion chopped 35g Ground Sage

Pigs Caul Fat (if available 30g Ground Coriander

About 2kg Stock 20g Ground Nutmeg

The stock can be from the meat stock left from the cooking process or from stock generated in the making of

brawn. If it is stock left from making brawn, adjust the seasoning to compensate after carrying out a taste test).

Method

Place the meats and the diced onion in a large pan and cover well with water and stock. Bring to

the boil and simmer for 1½ to 2½ hrs. Strain off the liquor and reserve. Mince all of the meats

through a 5mm plate and mix some of the liquor with the rusk to produce a good mix which is

not too wet. Mix all of the minced meat well with the soaked rusk. If the bowl chopper is used

care should be taken not to „over mix‟ and make the mixture too fine. Take the mixed product

and form into about 3oz balls. Each of the balls should be wrapped with a small portion of caul

and placed fairly tightly into a roasting dish. If caul fat cannot be obtained then the formed balls

will just be packed into the roasting tin. Add a little of the liquor over the top of the finished

faggots in the roasting tin to minimise the risks of „burning on‟ and bake in a fairly hot oven,

about 180 to 200°C for 30minutes or until a good golden brown colour is achieved on the tops of

the product.

BRAWN


3 Pigs Heads (split) 100g Salt,

12 Pigs Trotters 30g each Ground White Pepper

3kg Ox Cheek Ground Nutmeg, Ground

2kg Pork rind (de-fatted) Cloves & Ground Sage

38

10 bay leaves (tied in a small muslin bag).

Method

Remove the brains and the eyeballs from the head. Using a knife split the trotters into halves put

all of the Meat ingredients into standard brine and cure for 2 days. Remove the meat from the

brine, rinse well under cold water and place in a large pan and cover with cold water. Add the

seasonings. Bring to the boil and simmer for about 4 hrs ensuring while it is doing so that the

water level doesn‟t fall too low. As soon as it is possible to strain the liquor off do so, keeping

the liquor for use later. Remove the meat from the bones but discard any hard gristle or large

pieces of fat. Remove and discard the muslin bag containing the bay leaves. Using a coarse

mince plate (about 10mm) mince the meats (or if preferred, cut into small pieces by hand) and

place into a pan for later use. Re-boil the liquor to reduce by about ½ and add the meat to the

liquor and again take the temperature up to boil. Taste and, if needed, adjust seasoning

(particularly salt) and pour the mixture into a large container to cool and set. The finished

product should empty out quite easily for slicing.

POTTED MEATS


3kg Beef shin (or leg of beef) 75g Salt,

1kg pig Head meat 30g each of Ground White

1kg Pork rinds Pepper, Coriander and Mace

15g Ground Marjoram

Method

As with the Brawns, it is better if the meat items can be cured in a standard brine for a short time.

Remove the meats from the brine and rinse well under cold water. Place in a large pan and cover

well with cold water, add the seasoning and bring to the boil. Simmer the meat for about 4 hours

and then remove from the heat, strain off the liquor and then re-boil the liquor to reduce by about

1/3rd

. Mince all of the meat through a fine plate (about 3mm) and put back into a pan, adding

some of the reduced liquor and bring back to the boil. Decant the mixture into small containers

and leave it to cool before refrigerating.

PATE

Pate can in fact be many different things to many people and the range of pates that can be

produced can be quite enormous. That pate is both a popular and enjoyable meat product goes

without saying. However, some pates are made with liver; some are not made with liver; some

are made with game; some are made with fish. It would not be sensible to try and give a range

of recipes here just as it would not be sensible not to give at least one recipe as a suggestion.

Certainly the one given here can work quite well but as with many of the recipes that have been

given already, do be ready to experiment and adapt the recipe, remembering each time to write

39

down what the recipe actually was. If possible include a few comments noting the reaction of

anyone who has tested it to both the taste and the texture, remembering that some people prefer a

coarse pate while others will only accept a smooth pate. The suggested recipe here is for a

chicken and bacon pate and, as one of the final processes is carried out in a blender, the degree of

coarseness or fineness can to some extent be left to the individual taste. Usually, for a shop, the

amount of pate made at any one time is quite small so the quantities here reflect that point and, in

blending, for a shop the use of a domestic type of blender may be adequate but for commercial

purposes of course a larger and more robust machine would need to be used.


1.0kg Chicken livers 10 gloves of garlic finely chopped

500g finely chopped onion 20g Salt

250g streaky bacon 20g Marjoram

20ml red wine (optional) 15g Black Pepper

15g Ground Nutmeg

Method

In a large pan, slowly at first, cook the bacon over a low heat and, without adding any extra fat,

gradually increase the heat and cook until the bacon is crisp then remove it, drain off any residual

fat and crumble the bacon, setting it aside while reserving all of the dripping. Add the chicken

livers, chopped onion and chopped garlic to the some of the reserved dripping in the pan (still

retaining some of the dripping for later) and cook over a medium heat, stirring constantly for

about 5 minutes or until the chicken livers lose their red colour and become a grey/brown colour.

Cool slightly and then add the crumbled bacon and the seasonings and half of the wine (if used).

Blend the mixture to achieve the consistency required and then return to a pan to take the

temperature of the product back up to above 75°C. If the mixture is very thick, add some more of

the wine before pouring or spooning into an appropriate container that has had the remains of the

dripping „washed‟ all over the inside. Refrigerate overnight and then turn the container over to

release the moulded pate onto a dish. The layer of dripping on the inside of the container should

ease the release of the finished pate but if there is a problem, place the container in a slightly

larger container of hot water to soften the dripping before emptying it out.

THURINGERS (2) [Summer Sticks]

Curing mix: 50g Sodium nitrite, 90g Dextrose, 15g Lactacel


3kg Lean beef (85 90%VL) 125g salt ; 90g sugar

1.5kg Beef flanks or beef trim 90g Sugar

20g Ground White Pepper

10g ea., mustard powder; Paprika;

40

Ground Caraway Seeds;

Ground Nutmeg and

Monosodium Glutamate

Method

Coarse mince the meat (10 or 15mm plate) mix all of the seasonings with the curing mix and mix

well with the beef then refrigerate for at least 2 hours. Mince the mixed minced meat, seasonings

and cure through a finer plate (3 or 4mm) and fill into sheep casings (or 15 to 19mm collagen

casings and link the filled Casings onto a smoking rod. Place the linked sausages into a pre

heated smoker and maintain heat until a core temperature of the sausage reaches 72°C and

continue smoking for a further 30 minutes. Remove and hang the linked sausage to cool to

room temperature before placing in the chiller.

SPICY GARLIC BEEF STICKS

Curing mix: 30g Sodium nitrite, 100g Dextrose, 15g Lactacel


3kg Lean beef (85 90%VL) 25g Salt

1.5kg Beef flanks or trim 20g Ground White Pepper

35g Paprika

15g Mustard powder

15g Garlic

10g Ginger

Method

Coarse mince the meat (10 or 15mm plate) mix all of the seasonings and curing mix with the

beef and refrigerate for at least 2 hours. Mince the mixed minced meat, seasonings and cure

through a finer plate (3 or 4mm) and fill into sheep casings (or 15 to 19mm collagen casings and

link the filled Casings onto a smoking rod. Place the linked sausages into a pre heated smoker

and maintain heat until a core temperature of the sausage reaches 72°C and continue smoking

for a further 30 minutes. Remove and hang the linked sausage to cool to room temperature

before placing in the chiller.

MORTADELLA

Curing Mix: 125g Salt, 20g Sodium nitrite, 30g Brown Sugar 20ml water

(Meat) (Spices & Seasonings

4kg lean pork 40g Sugar

4kg lean beef 30g Ground White Pepper

1kg Pork back fat (1) 30g Whole White Peppercorns

1kg Diced pork back fat (2) 20g each of Garlic, Ground Coriander &

41

Ground Marjoram

15g Ground Cloves

Method

The beef, pork and pork back fat (1) are all minced through a 5mm mince plate and, while being

kept separate, approximate parts of the cure mixture are added to each of the items that are then

mixed well and trayed up separately to cure for about 48 hours. Scald the white peppercorns and

leave to soak for about 1½ hrs. Put the cured beef in the bowl chopper and run for about 5 or 6

revolutions then add the cured pork and cured fat and after adding the seasoning (and

peppercorns) continue the bowl chopper for a further 5 or 6 revolutions. Add the diced pork back

fat (2) and run for 2 or 3 revolutions to mix well. Fill into hog bungs or synthetic casings and tie

off. The filled sausage should be tied with string to create a criss-cross pattern (it is possible to

use a small size meat netting for this purpose, but that is not traditional!). Let the filled, tied

sausage set for 5 or 6 hours before smoking. The rested mortadella should be smoked at first for

about 10 to 12 hours at a temperature of 50°C and then the temperature needs to rise to about 70

to 72°C for a further 12 hours when the internal temperature should have reached at least 65°C.

It is preferable, whenever possible to leave the smoked mortadella to cool in the smoke house

after it has been turned off for a further 5 or 6 hours when it may be removed to a chiller.

Other ‘Non-Sausage’ Products

TERRINES


2kg Skinless Streaky Bacon 25g Salt,

2kg Pork Tenderloin 20g Ground Thyme,

2kg Pigs Tongues 20g Ground Black Pepper,

(Cooked / skinned) 20g Ground Coriander,

1kg Skinned Belly Pork 10g Ground Marjoram

1kg Pig Liver

1kg Chopped Onion

¾ kg Chopped Mushrooms

½ kg Farina

Method

Spread the streaky bacon and stretch before then carefully laying across the bottom and sides of a

terrine or loaf tin, leaving some of the bacon hanging well over the sides. Butterfly the pork

tenderloin lengthwise and lay it between greaseproof paper and gently flatten with a butchers

mallet (or fat basher) and put aside. Slice the tongues lengthways into about 1cm thick slices.

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Mince the pork belly and liver and put aside. Gently fry the onion and mushrooms in butter for

about 5 minutes then add the minced meat, liver, farina and seasoning and mix well. Take some

of the minced mixture and make an even layer in the terrine, add a layer of pork tenderloin, a

layer of the mince mixture, a layer of pigs tongue, a layer of mince mixture and carry on until the

terrine is full. Bring the ends of the streaky bacon back over the top of the filled container so

that the complete top is covered with the streaky bacon and then cover the terrine with foil and

stand in a roasting tin which contains about 1” of water and bake for 2½ hours at 160°C.

Remove from the oven and place a weight on top of the terrine while it cools. Once the terrine

has fully cooled down, remove the weight and the foil, invert and empty out onto an appropriate

tray. This type of product may prove to be very popular but it may also have a limited demand

so it may be advisable to adjust some of the recipe to produce smaller quantities to begin with.

Documents

A CONTINUING AND ONGOING DEVELOPMENT (Including Some ...nrpwilson.co.uk/chapter 13.pdf · Herbs, Spices & Seasonings In the recipes that follow later, the seasonings have been given