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1 The Best Full-DayTours
05_384374-ch01.qxp 11/13/08 10:38 PM Page 5
COPYRIG
HTED M
ATERIAL
101
101
80
280
RUSSIANHILL
NOB HILL
CIVICCENTER SOMA
NORTHBEACH
CHINATOWN
FINANCIALFINANCIALDISTRICTDISTRICT
FISHERMAN’SFISHERMAN’SWHARFWHARF
RUSSIANHILL
NOB HILL
CIVICCENTER SOMA
NORTHBEACH
CHINATOWN
FINANCIALFINANCIALDISTRICTDISTRICT
FISHERMAN’SFISHERMAN’SWHARFWHARF
Powell-Hyde Cable CarPowell-Hyde Cable Car
Market St.
Market St.
9th St.9th St.
8th St.8th St.
10th St.
10th St.
11th St.
11th St.
Howard St.
Howard St.
Bryant St.
Bryant St.
Brannan St.
Brannan St.
Townsend St.
Townsend St.
Berry St.
Berry St.King St.
King St.
4th St.4th St.
5th St.5th St.
Folsom St.
Folsom St.
3rd St.3rd St.
Delancey St.
Delancey St.
2nd St.
2nd St.
Harrison St.
Harrison St.
Harrison St.
Harrison St.
Mission St.
Mission St.
1st St.1st St.
Steuart St.
Steuart St.Fremont St.
Fremont St.
Beale St.
Beale St.M
ain St.
Main St.
Spear St.
Spear St.
Gra
nt A
ve.
Gra
nt A
ve.
Kear
ny S
t.Ke
arny
St.
Bat
tery
St.
Bat
tery
St.
Fron
t St.
Fron
t St.
Sans
ome
St.
Sans
ome
St.
Mon
tgom
ery
St.
Mon
tgom
ery
St. D
rum
m S
t.D
rum
m S
t.
Embarcadero
Embarcadero
North Point St.North Point St.
Bay St.Bay St.
Francisco St.Francisco St.
Lombard St.Lombard St.
Greenwich St.Greenwich St.
Filbert St.Filbert St.
Union St.Union St.
Jefferson St.Jefferson St.
Beach St.Beach St.
AquaticAquaticParkPark
Chestnut St.Chestnut St.
Sacramento St.Sacramento St.
Clay St.Clay St.
Washington St.Washington St.
California St.California St.
Pine St.Pine St.
Bush St.Bush St.
Sutter St.Sutter St.
Post St.Post St.
Van
Nes
s A
ve.
Van
Nes
s A
ve.
Van
Nes
s A
ve.
Van
Nes
s A
ve.
Vallejo St.Vallejo St.
BroadwayBroadwayTunnelTunnel
Tayl
or S
t.Ta
ylor
St.
Mas
on S
t.M
ason
St.
Pol
k St
.P
olk
St.
Lark
in S
t.La
rkin
St.
Hyd
e St
.H
yde
St.
Hyd
e St
.H
yde
St.
Leav
enw
orth
St.
Leav
enw
orth
St.
Pow
ell S
t.P
owel
l St.
Stoc
kton
St.
Stoc
kton
St.
Geary St.Geary St.
O’Farrell St.O’Farrell St.Ellis St.Ellis St.
Eddy St.Eddy St.
Turk St.Turk St.
Golden Gate Ave.Golden Gate Ave.McAllister St.McAllister St.
Jone
s St
.Jo
nes
St.
SouthSouthParkPark
San San FranciscoFrancisco
BayBay
Columbus Ave.
Columbus Ave.
Pacific Ave.Pacific Ave.Jackson St.Jackson St.
Dav
is S
t.D
avis
St.
Market St.
Market St.
Green St.Green St.
WashingtonWashington Square Square
“Crookedest Street”“Crookedest Street”
MosconeMosconeConventionConventionCenterCenter
AT&TAT&TParkPark
UnionUnionSquareSquare
JustinJustinHermanHermanPlazaPlaza
EmbarcaderoEmbarcaderoCenterCenter
TransbayTransbayTransitTransit
TerminalTerminal
Ferry BuildingFerry Building(World Trade(World Trade Center) Center)
Pier 19Pier 19Pier 17Pier 17
Pier 15Pier 15Pier 9Pier 9
Pier 7Pier 7
Pier 5Pier 5Pier 3Pier 3
Pier 1Pier 1
Pier 35Pier 35
Pier 33Pier 33
Pier 31Pier 31
Pier 27Pier 27
Pier 23Pier 23
Pier 45Pier 45Municipal Municipal Pier Pier Pier 43 1/2Pier 43 1/2
Pier 43Pier 43 Pier 41Pier 41PIER 39PIER 39
GhirardelliGhirardelli Square Square
Yerba BuenaYerba BuenaGardensGardens
Powell-Hyde Cable Car
Market St.
15th St.S. V
an N
ess
Ave
.Fo
lsom
H
arri
son
Ala
bam
a
9th St.8th St.
10th St.
11th St.
Howard St.
Bryant St.
Potr
ero
Ave
.
Brannan St.
Townsend St.
Alameda St.
Division St.
Berry St.
Channel St.
King St.
4th St.
5th St.
Folsom St.
3rd St.
Delancey St.
4th St.
6th St.
7th St
3rd St.Illinois St.
2nd St.
Harrison St.
Harrison St.
Mission St.
1st St.
Steuart St.Fremont St.
Beale St.M
ain St.Spear St.
Gra
nt A
ve.
Kear
ny S
t.
Bat
tery
St.
Fron
t St.
Sans
ome
St.
Mon
tgom
ery
St. D
rum
m S
t.
Embarcadero
North Point St.
Bay St.
Francisco St.
Lombard St.
Greenwich St.
Filbert St.
Union St.
Jefferson St.
Beach St.
AquaticPark
Chestnut St.
Sacramento St.
Clay St.
Washington St.
California St.
Pine St.
Bush St.
Sutter St.
Post St.
Van
Nes
s A
ve.
Van
Nes
s A
ve.
Vallejo St.
BroadwayTunnel
Tayl
or S
t.
Mas
on S
t.
Pol
k St
.
Lark
in S
t.
Hyd
e St
.H
yde
St.
Leav
enw
orth
St.
Pow
ell S
t.
Stoc
kton
St.
Geary St.
O’Farrell St.Ellis St.
Eddy St.
Turk St.
Golden Gate Ave.McAllister St.
Jone
s St
.
China B
asin
SouthPark
San Francisco
Bay
Columbus Ave.
Pacific Ave.Jackson St.
Dav
is S
t.
Market St.
Green St.
Washington Square
“Crookedest Street”
MosconeConventionCenter
AT&TPark
UnionSquare
JustinHermanPlaza
EmbarcaderoCenter
TransbayTransit
Terminal
Ferry Building(World Trade Center)
Pier 19Pier 17
Pier 15Pier 9
Pier 7
Pier 5Pier 3
Pier 1
Pier 35
Pier 33
Pier 31
Pier 27
Pier 23
Pier 45Municipal Pier Pier 43 1/2
Pier 43 Pier 41PIER 39
Ghirardelli Square
Yerba BuenaGardens
RUSSIANHILL
FINANCIALDISTRICT
FISHERMAN’SWHARF
NOB HILL
CIVICCENTER SOMA
NORTHBEACH TELEGRAPH
HILL
CHINATOWN
7
Union Square
Ride the Powell-Hyde Cable Car
Lombard Street
Fisherman’s Wharf
1 Coit Tower
North Beach
Mario’s BohemianCigar Store
Chinatown4
3
2 6
5
8
1
2
3
4
5
6
8
7
1/4 mi
0.25 km
0
0N
6
The Best in One DayTh
e B
est
Full-
Day
To
urs
05_384374-ch01.qxp 11/13/08 10:38 PM Page 6
1 Union Square. Start your tour at the shopping and commercialhub of San Francisco. The squareitself, named for a series of violentprounion mass demonstrationsstaged here on the eve of the CivilWar, is an oft-used art and music exhi-bition space. Restored for $25 millionin 2002, all that remains from the oldsquare is the 90-foot (27m) VictoryTower, dedicated by Theodore Roosevelt after the Spanish-American War. @ 30 min; bestbefore 9am. Union Sq. is btw. Post,Geary, Stockton & Powell sts. BART:Powell or Montgomery. Bus: 2, 3, 4,or 38 to Powell St. or 30 or 45 toGeary St. Cable car: Powell lines.
2 ★★= Ride the Powell-Hyde cable car. Head to thecable-car turnaround at Powell andMarket streets and await the Powell-Hyde line. The first of these engine-less cars made its maiden voyage in
1873. The cable car will take youover Russian Hill. Pay attention asyou crest Hyde Street at GreenwichStreet: you’ll catch your first breath-taking glimpse of the San FranciscoBay and Alcatraz Island. @ 30 min;best before 9:30am. Powell & Marketsts. $5 per ride.
3 ★ Lombard Street. “Thecrookedest street in the world” is infact not even the crookedest streetin San Francisco (Vermont St. btw.20th and 22nd sts. in Potrero Hill ismore crooked!). The zigzags wereadded in the 1920s, as the street’s27-degree pitch was too steep forcars. Cars are only permitted todescend, but pedestrians can takethe stairs up or down on either side.The street is loveliest in spring, whenthe hydrangeas are in bloom. @ 30min.; best weekday mornings. Lom-bard St. (btw. Hyde & Leavenworthsts.). Cable car: Powell-Hyde line.
7
This full-day tour introduces you to San Francisco’s best-known neighborhoods—Union Square to scenic Fisherman’s
Wharf, historic North Beach, and vibrant Chinatown. Once you arriveat Fisherman’s Wharf, you can do the rest on foot, but public trans-portation options are listed just in case. START: BART/Muni at Powell or
Montgomery. Bus 2, 3, 4, or 38 to Powell Street or bus 30 or 45 to
Geary Street. Cable car on Powell lines.
The Best in
On
e Day
RUSSIANHILL
NOB HILL
CIVICCENTER SOMA
NORTHBEACH
CHINATOWN
FINANCIALDISTRICT
FISHERMAN’SWHARF
RUSSIANHILL
NOB HILL
CIVICCENTER SOMA
NORTHBEACH
CHINATOWN
FINANCIALDISTRICT
FISHERMAN’SWHARF
Powell-Hyde Cable Car
Market St.
9th St.8th St.
10th St.
11th St.
Howard St.
Bryant St.
Brannan St.
Townsend St.
Berry St.King St.
4th St.
5th St.
Folsom St.3rd St.
Delancey St.
2nd St.
Harrison St.
Harrison St.
Mission St.
1st St.
Steuart St.Fremont St.
Beale St.M
ain St.Spear St.
Gra
nt A
ve.
Kear
ny S
t.
Bat
tery
St.
Fron
t St.
Sans
ome
St.
Mon
tgom
ery
St. D
rum
m S
t.
Embarcadero
North Point St.
Bay St.
Francisco St.
Lombard St.
Greenwich St.
Filbert St.
Union St.
Jefferson St.
Beach St.
AquaticPark
Chestnut St.
Sacramento St.
Clay St.
Washington St.
California St.
Pine St.
Bush St.
Sutter St.
Post St.
Van
Nes
s A
ve.
Van
Nes
s A
ve.
Vallejo St.
BroadwayTunnel
Tayl
or S
t.
Mas
on S
t.
Pol
k St
.
Lark
in S
t.
Hyd
e St
.H
yde
St.
Leav
enw
orth
St.
Pow
ell S
t.
Stoc
kton
St.
Geary St.
O’Farrell St.Ellis St.
Eddy St.
Turk St.
Golden Gate Ave.McAllister St.
Jone
s St
.
SouthPark
San Francisco
Bay
Columbus Ave.
Pacific Ave.Jackson St.
Dav
is S
t.
Market St.
Green St.
Washington Square
“Crookedest Street”
MosconeConventionCenter
AT&TPark
UnionSquare
JustinHermanPlaza
EmbarcaderoCenter
TransbayTransit
Terminal
Ferry Building(World Trade Center)
Pier 19Pier 17
Pier 15Pier 9
Pier 7
Pier 5Pier 3
Pier 1
Pier 35
Pier 33
Pier 31
Pier 27
Pier 23
Pier 45Municipal Pier Pier 43 1/2
Pier 43 Pier 41PIER 39
Ghirardelli Square
Yerba BuenaGardens
Riding a cable car is one of the best ways to see San Francisco up close.
05_384374-ch01.qxp 11/13/08 10:38 PM Page 7
8Th
e B
est
Full-
Day
To
urs 4 ★★ Fisherman’s Wharf. San
Francisco’s most-visited destinationis filled with history and a multitudeof activities. Although the wharf hasplenty of tacky souvenir shops andoverpriced restaurants, it offerssome lovely vistas that make a visitwell worth it. The following minitourpoints you to the wharf’s most
scenic aspects and minimizes timein the crowds. Hyde & Beach sts.www.fishermanswharf.org. Bus: 10,30, or 47 to Van Ness Ave. & N. PointSt. or 19 to Polk & Beach sts. Cablecar: Powell-Hyde line to Fisherman’sWharf or Powell-Mason line to Taylor& Bay sts. Streetcar: F to Jones &Beach sts.
The
Bes
t Fu
ll-D
ay T
ou
rs
Jefferson St.Jefferson St.
Mason St.
Mason St.
Bay St.Bay St.
Francisco St.Francisco St.
Lombard St.Lombard St.Lombard StLombard St.
Stockton St.Stockton St.
Powell St.
Powell St.
Taylor St.Taylor St.
Jones St.Jones St.
Leavenworth St.
Leavenworth St.
Hyde St.
Hyde St.
Larkin St.Larkin St.
Polk St.Polk St.
Van N
ess Ave.
Van N
ess Ave.
Beach St.Beach St.
North Point St.North Point St.
Bay St.Bay St.
Francisco St.Francisco St.
Chestnut St.Chestnut St.
The Embarcadero
FISHERMAN’S WHARFFISHERMAN’S WHARF
Joe DiMaggioJoe DiMaggioPlaygroundPlayground
Naatt’ll HHissttoorriicaall PParkk BBounndary
SAN FRANCISCOSAN FRANCISCOMARITIMEMARITIME
NAT’L HISTORICAL PARKNAT’L HISTORICAL PARK
Beach
MunicipalMunicipalPierPier
Hyde StreetHyde StreetPier Pier
RussianRussianHill ParkHill Park
GhirardelliGhirardelli Square Square
VictorianVictorianParkPark
FortFortMasonMason
AquaticAquaticParkPark
San FranciscoSan FranciscoArt InstituteArt Institute
“Crookedest“Crookedest Street” Street”
S a n F r a n c i s c o B a y
Pier 45Pier 45
Pier 47Pier 47
Pier 43½Pier 43½Pier 43Pier 43
Pier 41Pier 41
PIER 39PIER 39
S.S. S.S. Jeremiah O’BrienJeremiah O’Brien
Powell-H
yde LinePow
ell-Hyde Line
Powell-Mason Line
Powell-Mason Line
Jefferson St.
Mason St.
Bay St.
Francisco St.
Lombard St.Lombard St
Stockton St.
Powell St.
Taylor St.
Jones St.
Leavenworth St.
Hyde St.
Larkin St.
Polk St.
Van N
ess Ave.
Beach St.
North Point St.
Bay St.
Francisco St.
Chestnut St.
The Embarcadero
FISHERMAN’S WHARF
Joe DiMaggioPlayground
Nat’l Historical Park Boundary
SAN FRANCISCOMARITIME
NAT’L HISTORICAL PARK
Beach
RussianHill Park
VictorianPark
FortMason
AquaticPark
“Crookedest Street”
S a n F r a n c i s c o B a y
Pier 45
Pier 47
Pier 43½Pier 43
Pier 41
PIER 39
S.S. Jeremiah O’Brien
Powell-H
yde Line
Powell-Mason Line
San FranciscoArt Institute
MunicipalPier
Hyde StreetPier
Ghirardelli Square
4A
4D4E
4F
4H
4B
4C
4G
100 yds
100 m
0
0N
Cable Car
Cable CarTurnaround
Fisherman’s Wharf
B Victorian Park is where you’llalight from the cable car. You’ll seearts and crafts for sale as you walktoward C Ghirardelli Square,built in 1893 as Domingo Ghirardelli’schocolate factory. When the factorymoved in the 1960s, the buildingbecame a National Historic Landmarkand a mall. D The MaritimeMuseum (p 23), a three-story ArtDeco structure shaped like an oceanliner is slated to reopen in 2009 aftera major restoration. A walk along theE Municipal Pier affords views ofthe Golden Gate Bridge. The FHyde Street Pier (p 22) holds
refurbished antique ships, including a19th-century square-rigger. Walk tothe end of the pier to take in the viewof the Golden Gate Bridge. G TheCannery, once a fruit-canning facil-ity, now houses shops, restaurants,and the National Maritime VisitorsCenter. H Order a crepe from thecart in the Cannery courtyard. Nowfortified, you can brave the crowds at I PIER 39. Look for the infamoussea lions that have lived by the piersince 1989. @ 2–3 hr.; go in themorning to beat the crowds; bring ajacket—it can be chilly year-round.
05_384374-ch01.qxp 11/13/08 10:38 PM Page 8
Coit Tower crowns Telegraph Hill.
7 Mario’s Bohemian CigarStore and Cafe. Pick up sand-wiches and enjoy them in Washing-ton Square Park (p 54) across thestreet. 566 Columbus Ave. (at UnionSt.). y 415/362-0536. $.
5 ★ Coit Tower. The 210-foot(64m) landmark atop Telegraph Hillwas erected in 1933 with $125,000bequeathed by local character LillieHitchcock Coit, who wished to addbeauty to the city. Inside the tower’sbase are murals by several artists,many of whom studied under DiegoRivera. Commissioned as part of theNew Deal’s Works Project Adminis-tration, the murals have a proworkermotif that caused a stir in their day.Pay the fee to climb the tower: a 360-degree city view awaits you. While onTelegraph Hill, look for the flock ofwild green parrots, descendents ofescaped pets. @ 45 min. y 415/362-0808. Admission to the top $4.50adults, $3.50 seniors, $2 kids 6–12.Daily 10am–6pm. Bus: 39.
6 ★★ North Beach. The immi-grants from Genoa and Sicily whofounded the Bay Area’s fishingindustry settled into North Beach inthe 1870s—establishing a plethoraof Italian restaurants, cafes, andbakeries. In the 1950s, the area’scafes and bars became a haven forwriters and artists from the BeatGeneration (p 30). Today the neigh-borhood is a combination ofMediterranean warmth andBohemian spirit. For more on thisarea, see p 52. @ 1–2 hr.; bestMon–Sat from 11am–4pm. Sun andearly mornings shops are closed.Bus: 39 to Washington Sq.
8 Chinatown. The most denselypopulated neighborhood in San Fran-cisco, Chinatown is also one of themost fascinating. Take a walk downGrant Street to find shops filled withcreative, eclectic knickknacks. China-town locals shop on Stockton Street,which is teeming with grocery stores,herb shops, and vendors of ceremo-nial items. (See p 58 for a completetour of this colorful neighborhood.)
@ 1–2 hr.
9The B
est in O
ne D
ay
Pier 39’s sea lions bathe, bark, and splash about—it’s one of the best shows in town,and it’s free.
05_384374-ch01.qxp 11/13/08 10:38 PM Page 9
Fell St.Fell St.
Oak St.Oak St.
McAllister St.McAllister St.
Oct
avia
Blv
d.
Oct
avia
Blv
d.
Hayes St.Hayes St.
Market St.
Market St.
15th St.15th St.
Haight St.Haight St.
Page St.Page St.
Gue
rrer
o St
.G
uerr
ero
St.
9th St.9th St.
8th St.
8th St.10th St.
10th St.
11th St.
11th St.
12th St.
12th St.
Howard St.
Howard St.
Brannan St.
Brannan St.
Bryant St.
Bryant St.
Townsend St.
Townsend St.
Alameda St.Alameda St.
Berry St.
Berry St.
King St.
King St.
4th St.
4th St.
5th St.5th St.
6th St.
6th St.
7th St.7th St.
Folsom St.
Folsom St.
Folsom St.
Folsom St.
3rd St.
3rd St.6th St.6th St.
7th St.7th St.
3rd St.3rd St.
2nd St.
2nd St.
Harrison St.
Harrison St.
Mission St.
Mission St.
Mission St.
Mission St.
1st St.1st St.
Fremont St.
Fremont St.
Beale St.
Beale St.M
ain St.
Main St.
Spear St.
Spear St.
Gra
nt A
ve.
Gra
nt A
ve.
Kear
ny S
t.Ke
arny
St.
Bat
tery
St.
Bat
tery
St.
Fron
t St.
Fron
t St.
Sans
ome
St.
Sans
ome
St.
Mon
tgom
ery
St
.M
ontg
omer
y
St.
Dru
mm
St.
Dru
mm
St.
Embarcadero
Embarcadero
North Point St.North Point St.Bay St.Bay St.Bay St.Bay St.
Francisco St.Francisco St. Francisco St.Francisco St.
Lombard St.Lombard St.Lombard St.Lombard St.
Greenwich St.Greenwich St.Greenwich St.Greenwich St.
Filbert St.Filbert St.
Union St.Union St. Union St.Union St.
Jefferson St.Jefferson St.
Beach St.Beach St.
Chestnut St.Chestnut St.Chestnut St.Chestnut St.
Buc
hana
n St
.B
ucha
nan
St.
Buc
hana
n St
.B
ucha
nan
St.
Lagu
na S
t.La
guna
St.
Oct
avia
St.
Oct
avia
St.
Gou
gh S
t.G
ough
St.
Lagu
na S
t.La
guna
St.
Gou
gh S
t.G
ough
St.
Fran
klin
St.
Fran
klin
St.
Fran
klin
St.
Fran
klin
St.
Washington St.Washington St.
Sacramento St.Sacramento St.
Clay St.Clay St.
Van
Nes
s A
ve.
Van
Nes
s A
ve.
Vallejo St.Vallejo St.
BroadwayBroadway TunnelTunnel
Tunn
elTu
nnel
Tayl
or S
t.Ta
ylor
St.
Mas
on S
t.M
ason
St.
Pol
k St
.P
olk
St.
Lark
in S
t.La
rkin
St.
Hyd
e St
.H
yde
St.
Leav
enw
orth
St.
Leav
enw
orth
St.
Sutter St.Sutter St.
Post St.Post St.
California St.California St.
Pine St.Pine St.
Bush St.Bush St.
Pow
ell S
t.P
owel
l St.
Stoc
kton
St.
Stoc
kton
St.
Geary St.Geary St.
O’Farrell St.O’Farrell St.
Eddy St.Eddy St.
Ellis St.Ellis St.
Jone
s St
.Jo
nes
St.
Turk St.Turk St.
Golden Gate Ave. Golden Gate Ave.
Columbus Ave.
Columbus Ave.
Pacific Ave.Pacific Ave.Pacific Ave.Pacific Ave.
Jackson St.Jackson St.Jackson St.Jackson St.
Market St.
Market St.
Green St.Green St.
Vallejo St.Vallejo St.
Green St.Green St.
S. Van N
ess Ave.
Embarcadero
S O M AS O M A
TENDER-TENDER-LOINLOIN
JAPANTOWNJAPANTOWN
HAYESHAYESVALLEYVALLEY
NOB HILLNOB HILL
CHINATOWNCHINATOWN
FINANCIALFINANCIALDISTRICTDISTRICT
TELEGRAPHTELEGRAPHHILLHILL
UNIONUNIONSQUARESQUARE
RUSSIANRUSSIANHILLHILL
NORTHNORTHBEACHBEACH
FISHERMAN’SFISHERMAN’SWHARFWHARF
CIVIC CENTERCIVIC CENTER
F-Market Streetcar
F-Market S
treetcar
F-Market S
treetcar
To theTo theMissionMission To Potrero HillTo Potrero Hill
Pier 33Pier 33
Pier 19Pier 19Pier 17Pier 17
Pier 15Pier 15
Pier 9Pier 9
Pier 7Pier 7 Pier 5Pier 5
Pier 3Pier 3
Pier 1Pier 1
Pier 35Pier 35
Pier 31Pier 31
Pier 27Pier 27
Pier 23Pier 23
Pier 45Pier 45 PierPier43½43½
Pier 43Pier 43
Pier 41Pier 41Municipal Municipal
Pier Pier
UnionUnionSquareSquare
San Francisco
–
Oakland
Bay Bridge
AquaticAquaticParkParkGOLDEN GATE GOLDEN GATE
NAT’L REC. AREA–NAT’L REC. AREA–FORT MASONFORT MASON
MosconeMosconeRec. CenterRec. Center
LafayetteLafayetteParkPark
WashingtonWashington Square Square
SouthSouthParkPark
S a n F r a n c i s c o B a yS a n F r a n c i s c o B a y
Mis
sion
St.
MosconeMosconeConventionConvention
CenterCenter
FerryFerryBuildingBuilding
PIER 39PIER 39
JapanJapanCenterCenter
GhirardelliGhirardelliSquareSquare
Yerba Buena Yerba Buena GardensGardens
AT&TAT&TParkPark
Fell St.
Oak St.
McAllister St.
Oct
avia
Blv
d.
Hayes St.
Market St.
15th St.
Haight St.
.
Page St.
Gue
rrer
o St
.
9th St.8th St.10th St.
11th St.
12th St.
Howard St.
Brannan St.
Bryant St.
Townsend St.
Alameda St.
Berry St.
King St.
4th St.
5th St.
6th St.
7th St.
Folsom St.
Folsom St.
3rd St.6th St.
7th St.
3rd St.
2nd St.
Harrison St.
Mission St.
Mission St.
1st St.Frem
ont St.Beale St.
Main St.
Spear St.
Gra
nt A
ve.
Kear
ny S
t.
Bat
tery
St.
Fron
t St.
Sans
ome
St.
Mon
tgom
ery
St
.
Dru
mm
St.
Embarcadero
North Point St.Bay St.Bay St.
.
Francisco St. Francisco St.
Lombard St.Lombard St.
Greenwich St.Greenwich St.
Filbert St.
Union St. Union St.
Jefferson St.
Beach St.
Chestnut St.Chestnut St.
Buc
hana
n St
.B
ucha
nan
St.
Lagu
na S
t.
Oct
avia
St.
Gou
gh S
t.
Lagu
na S
t.
Gou
gh S
t.
Fran
klin
St.
Fran
klin
St.
Washington St.
Sacramento St.
Clay St.
Van
Nes
s A
ve.
Vallejo St.
Broadway Tunnel
Tunn
el
Tayl
or S
t.
Mas
on S
t.
Pol
k St
.
Lark
in S
t.
Hyd
e St
.
Leav
enw
orth
St.
Sutter St.
Post St.
California St.
Pine St.
Bush St.
Pow
ell S
t.
Stoc
kton
St.
Geary St.
O’Farrell St.
Eddy St.
Ellis St.
Jone
s St
.
Turk St.
Golden Gate Ave.
Columbus Ave.
Pacific Ave.Pacific Ave.
Jackson St.Jackson St.
Market St.
Green St.
Vallejo St.
Green St.
S. Van N
ess Ave.
Embarcadero
S O M A
TENDER-LOIN
JAPANTOWN
HAYESVALLEY
NOB HILL
CHINATOWN
FINANCIALDISTRICT
TELEGRAPHHILL
UNIONSQUARE
RUSSIANHILL
NORTHBEACH
FISHERMAN’SWHARF
CIVIC CENTER
F-Market Streetcar
F-Market S
treetcar
To theMission To Potrero Hill
Pier 33
Pier 19Pier 17
Pier 15
Pier 9
Pier 7 Pier 5
Pier 3
Pier 1
Pier 35
Pier 31
Pier 27
Pier 23
Pier 45 Pier43½
Pier 43
Pier 41Municipal
Pier
UnionSquare
AquaticParkGOLDEN GATE
NAT’L REC. AREA–FORT MASON
MosconeRec. Center
LafayettePark
Washington Square
SouthPark
S a n F r a n c i s c o B a y
Mis
sion
St.
MosconeConvention
Center
FerryBuilding
PIER 39
JapanCenter
GhirardelliSquare
Yerba Buena Gardens
AT&TPark
280
101
101
101
80
80
14
13
6
12
11
98
7
54
3
12
10
1/4 mi
0.25 km
0
0N
Ferry to Alcatraz Island
Red & White Fleet Bay Cruise
F-Market Streetcar
Ferry Building
Ferry Plaza Farmers Market
Taylor’s Refresher
Embarcadero Promenade
Garden Court
San Francisco Museum of Modern Art (SFMOMA)
SoMa
Yerba Buena Center for the Arts
Civic Center
Zuni Café
Suppenküche
1
4
3
5
8
7
2
613
14
9
12
11
10
10
The Best in Two DaysTh
e B
est
Full-
Day
To
urs
The
Bes
t Fu
ll-D
ay T
ou
rs
05_384374-ch01.qxp 11/13/08 10:38 PM Page 10
1 ★★★ Alcatraz Island. Thistiny island, less than 11⁄2 miles(2.4km) offshore, beckons onlookerstaking in the vista of the SF Bay. It’shard to believe this scenic rock oncehoused the country’s most hard-ened criminals, including Al Capone,“Machine Gun” Kelly, and RobertStroud (the Birdman). Spanish for“pelican,” Alcatraz was so named in1775 for the birds that nested on itsrocky shores. From the 1850s to1933, the U.S. military used Alcatrazas a fort, and in 1934 the govern-ment converted it into a maximum-security prison. Given its sheer cliffsand surrounded by frigid waterswith treacherous currents, Alcatrazwas considered inescapable. How-ever, the prison’s upkeep cost a for-tune, as all supplies had to come byboat. In 1962 three prisoners didescape; the prison was shut downthe next year. The island remainedunoccupied until 1969, when Native
Americans seized it to publicizeAmerican Indian rights’ issues. Theywere expelled in 1971. Today, theNational Park Service manages Alca-traz. The boat trip to Alcatraz takesyou over chilly waters away from thevibrant city; you arrive and walkuphill to the barren former prison. Inthe audio tour former guards andinmates recount riveting tales ofprison life and spectacular escapeattempts. (Note: I highly recom-mend purchasing the ticket thatincludes the informative audio tour.)From October to mid-February, youcan tour the island itself on a walk-ing path. Evenings, the more expen-sive Alcatraz After Hours tour isespecially eerie. @ 2–3 hr., includingferry ride. Take the 1st ferry of theday, if possible. Wear a jacket &walking shoes; it’s an uphill walkfrom the ferry landing to the prison(motorized carts carry visitors withdisabilities). The ferry sells snacks,
11
If you have two days, take the one-day tour outlined aboveon the first day. For your second day, you should start by going
to jail! For many, a visit to Alcatraz is a major highlight. However, pre-reserved tickets are required. If you’re unable to get tickets ahead oftime, I’ve listed an alternative bay cruise. Following Alcatraz (or thecruise), you’ll get a taste for the city’s epicurean delights, as well asits rich artistic and cultural life, in SoMa and the Civic Center. You’llwant the whole day for this tour. START: Pier 41, Fisherman’s Wharf.
Cable car Powell-Mason. Bus 30. Streetcar F.
The Best in
Two
Days
Fell St.
Oak St.
McAllister St.
Oct
avia
Blv
d.
Hayes St.
Market St.
15th St.
Haight St.
Page St.
Gue
rrer
o St
.
9th St.8th St.10th St.
11th St.
12th St.
Howard St.
Brannan St.
Bryant St.
Townsend St.
Alameda St.
Berry St.
King St.
4th St.
5th St.
6th St.
7th St.
Folsom St.
Folsom St.
3rd St.6th St.
7th St.
3rd St.
2nd St.
Harrison St.
Mission St.
Mission St.
1st St.Frem
ont St.Beale St.
Main St.
Spear St.
Gra
nt A
ve.
Kear
ny S
t.
Bat
tery
St.
Fron
t St.
Sans
ome
St.
Mon
tgom
ery
St
.
Dru
mm
St.
Embarcadero
North Point St.Bay St.Bay St.
Francisco St. Francisco St.
Lombard St.Lombard St.
Greenwich St.Greenwich St.
Filbert St.
Union St. Union St.
Jefferson St.
Beach St.
Chestnut St.Chestnut St.
Buc
hana
n St
.B
ucha
nan
St.
Lagu
na S
t.
Oct
avia
St.
Gou
gh S
t.
Lagu
na S
t.
Gou
gh S
t.
Fran
klin
St.
Fran
klin
St.
Washington St.
Sacramento St.
Clay St.
Van
Nes
s A
ve.
Vallejo St.
Broadway Tunnel
Tunn
el
Tayl
or S
t.
Mas
on S
t.
Pol
k St
.
Lark
in S
t.
Hyd
e St
.
Leav
enw
orth
St.
Sutter St.
Post St.
California St.
Pine St.
Bush St.
Pow
ell S
t.
Stoc
kton
St.
Geary St.
O’Farrell St.
Eddy St.
Ellis St.
Jone
s St
.
Turk St.
Golden Gate Ave.
Columbus Ave.
Pacific Ave.Pacific Ave.
Jackson St.Jackson St.
Market St.
Green St.
Vallejo St.
Green St.
S. Van N
ess Ave.
Embarcadero
S O M A
TENDER-LOIN
JAPANTOWN
HAYESVALLEY
NOB HILL
CHINATOWN
FINANCIALDISTRICT
TELEGRAPHHILL
UNIONSQUARE
RUSSIANHILL
NORTHBEACH
FISHERMAN’SWHARF
CIVIC CENTER
F-Market Streetcar
F-Market S
treetcar
To theMission To Potrero Hill
Pier 33
Pier 19Pier 17
Pier 15
Pier 9
Pier 7 Pier 5
Pier 3
Pier 1
Pier 35
Pier 31
Pier 27
Pier 23
Pier 45 Pier43½
Pier 43
Pier 41Municipal
Pier
UnionSquare
San Francisco
–
Oakland
Bay Bridge
AquaticParkGOLDEN GATE
NAT’L REC. AREA–FORT MASON
MosconeRec. Center
LafayettePark
Washington Square
SouthPark
S a n F r a n c i s c o B a y
Mis
sion
St.
MosconeConvention
Center
FerryBuilding
PIER 39
JapanCenter
GhirardelliSquare
Yerba Buena Gardens
AT&TPark
Take a tour of Alcatraz (aka “The Rock”), once the most infamous prison in the U.S.
05_384374-ch01.qxp 11/13/08 10:38 PM Page 11
but there’s no food on the island.Pier 41, Fisherman’s Wharf. y 415/773-1188 for information; 415/705-5555 to reserve tickets. www.nps.gov/alcatraz. Admission with audiotour $16 adults, $14 seniors over 62,$11 kids 5–11; without audio tour$12 adults, $9.75 seniors over 62,$8.25 kids 5–11. Admisson pricesinclude ferry. Winter daily9:30am–2:15pm; summer daily9:30am–4:15pm. Ferries run everyhalf-hour. Arrive 30 min. beforedeparture in summer (45 min. in win-ter). After-hours tours depart at 6:15& 7pm in summer & 4:20 & 5:10pmin winter. Bus: 30. Cable car: Powell-Mason line. Streetcar: F.
2 ★ Red & White Fleet BayCruise. If you are unable to prere-serve Alcatraz tickets, take a 1-hourbay cruise with audio narration.You’ll travel under the Golden GateBridge and around Alcatraz whileyou take in dazzling views. @ 1 hr.Pier 431⁄2. y 415/673-2900. www.redandwhite.com. Tickets $20 adults,$16 seniors over 62 & kids 12–18,$12 kids 5–11, free for kids under 5.Check the website for discount fares.Bus: 30. Cable car: Powell-Masonline. Streetcar: F.
3 ★ F-Market Streetcar. Sev-eral streetcars travel along MarketStreet, but the F line also heads
along the scenic waterfront. Itsstreetcars are imported from aroundthe world, including vintage carsfrom Europe and turn-of-the-20th-century trolleys from other U.S.cities. @ 15 min.; avoid rush hour(M–F, before 9:30am & 4:30–6:30pm).Board at Beach & Stockton sts.; exitat the Ferry Terminal loop. Fare $1.50adults, 50¢ seniors & kids 5–17.
4 ★★ Ferry Building. This 1898building reopened in 2003 after a 4-year, multimillion-dollar renovation.Outside, you’ll see a 240-foot (73m)clock tower. Inside is a collection ofrestaurants and gourmet-foodstores offering artisan cheese, hand-crafted chocolates, and other spe-cialty foods that will make yourmouth water. Make your way to theback of the building for a look at thestately Bay Bridge. @ 1 hr. 1 FerryBuilding (at the Embarcadero & Mar-ket St.). www.ferrybuildingmarketplace.com. Mon–Fri 10am–6pm; Sat9am–6pm; Sun 11am–5pm. Bus: 2, 14,or 21 to Steuart & Market sts. Street-car: F or any Market St. streetcar tothe Ferry Bldg. or Embarcadero.
5 ★★★ Ferry Plaza FarmersMarket. On Saturday and Tuesday,local farmers and food producersset up booths around the FerryBuilding. On Saturday mornings, themarket teems with locals stocking
12Th
e B
est
Full-
Day
To
urs
Take a trip back in time on a vintage F-market line streetcar.
05_384374-ch01.qxp 11/13/08 10:38 PM Page 12
6 Taylor’s Refresher. Order anall-natural burger with sweet potatofries and sit at the outdoor picnictable. (See p 113 for full review.)Ferry Building Marketplace. y 415/328-3663. $.
up on organic fruits and vegetables,naturally raised meats, fresh-bakedgoods, and so on. Saturday also fea-ture trailer cars out back, fromwhich city restaurants serve gour-met breakfasts. Given the penchantfor using local, organic, and natu-rally raised produce and meats atmany San Francisco restaurants—not to mention homes—this marketis a hallmark of city life. @ 1 hr. 1Ferry Building (at the Embarcadero &Market St.). Tues 10am–2pm; Sat8am–2pm.
bronze plaques embedded in thesidewalk, which are imprinted withphotographs, drawings, poetry, andhistorical facts about the waterfront.
@ 30 min.–1 hr.; avoid weekdayafternoons 4–6pm when traffic isheavy. Return to Market St. to catchthe F-Market streetcar to the Mont-gomery St. station, or walk.
8 Garden Court. The extrava-gant Palace Hotel astounded SanFranciscans and bankrupted itsowner, who allegedly committedsuicide a day before the grandopening in 1875. Three decadeslater the hotel was ravaged by firefollowing the 1906 earthquake. Thehotel was restored and reopened in1909, unveiling the magnificent Gar-den Court with its domed ceilingmade from 80,000 panes of glass.After admiring the glass ceiling, stepinto the Pied Piper bar to admire the$2.5-million Maxfield Parrish paint-ing of the same name. @ 20 min. 2New Montgomery St. (at Market St.).
y 415/546-5089. www.gardencourt-restaurant.com. Mon–Sat 6:30am–11am and 11:30am–2pm; Sun break-fast 6:30–9:30am; Sun brunch10am–2pm; Sat tea 1–3pm. BART/Muni: Powell or Montgomery.
9 ★★★ San Francisco Museumof Modern Art (SFMOMA).In 1995, SFMOMA moved into its
13The B
est in Tw
o D
ays
The glass ceiling of the Garden Court is a glittering masterpiece.
7 ★★ Embarcadero Prome-nade. The city developed thislovely stretch of waterfront after the 1989 earthquake destroyed theugly elevated freeway that onceobscured the view. The wide side-walk and bayside scenery make thisa favored destination for pedestri-ans, bikers, and runners. Notice theEmbarcadero Ribbon, a 21⁄2-mile(4km) continuous line of glassencased in concrete, as well as the13-foot-tall (4m) metal pylons and
05_384374-ch01.qxp 11/13/08 10:39 PM Page 13
$62-million home, designed by Swissarchitect Mario Botta. The permanentcollection includes over 15,000 worksby Henri Matisse, Jackson Pollock,Georgia O’Keeffe, and others. The firstmajor museum to recognize photog-raphy as an art form, SFMOMA alsohas numerous excellent examples byAnsel Adams, Man Ray, and others.
@ 11⁄2 hr.; weekdays are the best timeto visit. 151 3rd St. (btw. Mission &Howard sts.). y 415/357-4000.www.sfmoma.com. Admission $13adults, $8 seniors over 62, $7 studentswith ID, free for kids under 13. Half-price Thurs 6–8:45pm. Free to all 1stTues of the month. Thurs 11am–8:45pm; Fri–Tues 11am–5:45pm.Closed Wed & major holidays. Opensat 10am in summer. Bus: 15, 30, or 45.BART/Muni: Montgomery St.
0 ★★★ SoMa (South of Mar-ket). This former industrial areasouth of Market Street has becomea major center for art and culture.While the SFMOMA and YerbaBuena Center for the Arts, detailedin bullets 9 and !, are the culturalanchors of the neighborhood, you’llfind numerous other museums andgalleries here. I list my favoriteamong them in the minitour below.
@ 2–4 hr. Visit any time during
daylight hours, although SFMOMA isclosed Wed.
! ★★★= Yerba BuenaCenter for the Arts (YBCA).The YBCA transformed an area oncefilled with dilapidated buildings intoSan Francisco’s artistic center. Takea moment to stroll through the tran-quil grounds and contemplate thesoothing Martin Luther King, Jr.Memorial Fountain. From May toOctober, you might enjoy a free concert on the grassy Esplanade.Among the structures here, the gal-leries building designed by PritzkerArchitecture Prize–winning architectFumihiko Maki contains several exhi-bition spaces, while the theaterbuilding hosts dance, music, andtheater performances. Kids willenjoy Yerba Buena’s playground, ice skating rink, bowling alley, andZeum, a high-tech museum for chil-dren. @ 11⁄2 hr.; best time to come isduring daylight hours. y 800/978-2700. www.ybca.org. Ice skating andBowling Center: 750 Folsom St.
y 415/820-3532. www.skatebowl.com. Zeum: 701 Mission St. y 415/777-2800. www.zeum.com. Admis-sion $8 adults, $7 students & sen-iors, $6 kids 3–18, free for kids under3. Wed–Sun 11am–6pm.
@ ★★ Civic Center. Less than adecade after the 1906 earthquakedestroyed City Hall, San Franciscocompleted an ambitious new admin-istrative and cultural center ingrandiose, Beaux Arts style. It con-tains City Hall, with its 308-foot-tall(94m) dome; the homes of the SanFrancisco Symphony, Opera, and Bal-let; the main public library; the AsianArt Museum; and other notablebuildings. For more details on theCivic Center, see the neighborhoodtour on p 48. @ 1 hr.; best time tovisit are weekdays during daylighthours. Most Civic Center buildingsare bordered by Hayes, Franklin &Hyde sts. & Golden Gate Ave.
14Th
e B
est
Full-
Day
To
urs
SFMOMA’s skylight is just one of its archi-tectural highlights.
05_384374-ch01.qxp 11/13/08 10:39 PM Page 14
15The B
est in Tw
o D
ays
Geary St.Geary St.
O’Farrell St.O’Farrell St.
3rd St.
3rd St.
4th St.
4th St.
New Montgom
ery St.
New Montgom
ery St.
Yerba Buena Lane
Yerba Buena Lane
Annie St.
Annie St.Mark
et St.
Mark
et St.
Howard St.
Howard St.
Natom
a St.
Natom
a St.
Min
na St.
Min
na St.
Stevenso
n St.
Stevenso
n St.
Jess
ie St.
Jess
ie St.
Miss
ion St.
Miss
ion St.
Kearny St.Kearny St.
Grant A
ve.G
rant Ave.
Yerba BuenaYerba BuenaGardensGardens
JessieJessieSquareSquare
Yerba BuenaYerba BuenaCenter for the ArtsCenter for the Arts
GalleryGallery
Yerba BuenaYerba BuenaCenter for the ArtsCenter for the Arts
TheaterTheater
SFMOMASFMOMA
MetreonMetreonMoscone CenterMoscone Center
SouthSouth
Moscone CenterMoscone CenterNorthNorth
Moscone CenterMoscone CenterWestWest
Geary St.
O’Farrell St.
3rd St.
4th St.
New Montgom
ery St.
Yerba Buena Lane
Annie St.Mark
et St.
Howard St.
Natom
a St.
Min
na St.
Stevenso
n St.
Jess
ie St.
Miss
ion St.
Kearny St.
Grant A
ve.
Yerba BuenaGardens
JessieSquare
Yerba BuenaCenter for the Arts
Gallery
Yerba BuenaCenter for the Arts
Theater
SFMOMA
MetreonMoscone Center
South
Moscone CenterNorth
Moscone CenterWest
10C
10D
10E
10B10A
100 yds
100 m
0
0N
Pedestrians onlySoMa
At the A Cartoon Art Museumyou’ll find antique political cartoons,vintage Disney animation cels, andmore. 655 Mission St. y 415/227-8666. www.cartoonart.org. Admission$6 adults, $4 students & seniors, $2kids 6–12, free for kids under 6. Daily11am–5pm. The B California His-torical Society has artwork detail-ing California history, includingphotographs by Ansel Adams. 678Mission St. y 415/357-1848. www.californiahistoricalsociety.org. Admis-sion $3 adults, $1 students & seniors,free for kids under 5. Wed–Sat noon–4:30pm. Among the cool things at the
C Museum of the AfricanDiaspora is a three-stories-tall
image of a young girl composed ofthousands of photographs. 685 Mis-sion St. y 415/358-7200. www.moadsf.org. Admission $10 adults, $5 students & seniors, free for kidsunder 13. Wed–Sat 11am–6pm; Sun11am–5pm. The D Contempo-rary Jewish Museum opened inspring 2008 in an arresting buildingdesigned by Daniel Libeskind. 736Mission St. y 415/655-7835. www.jmsf.org. The E Museum ofCraft and Folk Art features folkart from around the world. 51 YerbaBuena Ln. (at Mission St. btw. 3rd &4th sts.). y 415/227-4888. www.mocfa.org. Tues–Sun 11am–6pm;Sat–Sun 11am–5pm.
Treat yourselves to dinner at
# Zuni Café (1658 Market St.;
y 415/552-2522; $$$; see p 116),an SF institution and one of the firstpurveyors of innovative California
cuisine. For a festive—andcheaper—alternative, enjoy heartyGerman fare and refreshing beers at
$ Suppenkuche (601 Hayes St.;
y 415/252-9289; $$; see p 113).
05_384374-ch01.qxp 11/13/08 10:39 PM Page 15
280
101
1
1
1
1
80
101
101
101
101
Lake
St.
Lake
St.
Cle
men
t St.
Cle
men
t St.
Gea
ry B
lvd
.G
eary
Blv
d. Linc
oln
Way
Linc
oln
Way
Irvi
ng S
t.Ir
ving
St.
43rd Ave.43rd Ave.
36th Ave.36th Ave.
34th Ave.34th Ave.
30th Ave.30th Ave.
25th Ave.25th Ave.
14th
St.
14th
St.
Dub
oce
Ave
.D
uboc
e A
ve.
17th
St.
17th
St.
17th
St.
17th
St.
16th
St.
16th
St.
Stanyan St.Stanyan St.
Ashbury St.Ashbury St.
Masonic St.Masonic St.
Castro St.Castro St.
Church St.
Dolores St.
South South Van Ness Ave.
Che
stnu
t St.
Che
stnu
t St.
Lom
bard
St.
Lom
bard
St.
Bro
adw
ayB
road
way
Cal
iforn
ia S
t.C
alifo
rnia
St.
Cal
iforn
ia S
t.C
alifo
rnia
St.
Gea
ry B
lvd.
Gea
ry B
lvd. Tu
rk S
t.Tu
rk S
t.
Gol
den
Gat
e A
ve.
Gol
den
Gat
e A
ve.
Fulto
n St
.Fu
lton
St.
Oak
St.
Oak
St.
Hai
ght S
t.H
aigh
t St.
Van Ness Ave.Van Ness Ave.
Polk St.Polk St.
Hyde St.Hyde St.
Taylor St.Taylor St.
Grant Ave.Grant Ave.
Stockton St.Stockton St.
Kearny St.Kearny St.
Battery St.Battery St.
Colum
bus Ave
.
Colum
bus Ave
.
3rd St.
3rd St.
1st St.
1st St.
4th St.
4th St.
5th St.
5th St.
6th St.
6th St.
7th St.
7th St.
8th St.
8th St.
9th St.
9th St.
10th Ave.10th Ave.
8th Ave.8th Ave.
6th Ave.6th Ave.
Jack
son
St.
Jack
son
St.
Sutt
er S
t.Su
tter
St.
Post
St.
Post
St.
Gea
ry S
t.G
eary
St.
Folsom
St.
Folsom
St.
Harriso
n St.
Harriso
n St.
Bryant S
t.
Bryant S
t.
Park Presidio Blvd.Park Presidio Blvd.
Arguello Blvd.Arguello Blvd.
Presidio Ave.Presidio Ave.Lyon St.Lyon St.
Fillmore St.Fillmore St.
Gough St.Gough St.
Sacr
amen
to S
t.Sa
cram
ento
St.
Franklin St.Franklin St.
Cal
iforn
ia S
t.C
alifo
rnia
St.
Divisadero St.Divisadero St.
Irvi
ng S
t.Ir
ving
St.
Fulto
n St
.Fu
lton
St.
Mark
et St.
Mark
et St.
Mark
et St.
Mark
et St.
Uni
on S
t.U
nion
St.
Mar
ina
Blv
d.M
arin
a B
lvd.
Howard St.
Howard St.
Great HighwayGreat Highway
Fell
St.
Fell
St.
10th St.
10th St.
Powell St.Powell St.
Lincoln Blvd.
Arguello Blvd.
Lin
coln Blvd. A
ve
.
Poin
t Lo
bos
Ave
.
Parn
assu
s A
ve.
John
F. K
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lvd
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oln
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t.
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36th Ave.
34th Ave.
30th Ave.
25th Ave.
14th
St.
Dub
oce
Ave
.
17th
St.
17th
St.
16th
St.
Stanyan St.
Ashbury St.Masonic St.
Castro St.
South
Che
stnu
t St.
Lom
bard
St.
Bro
adw
ay
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iforn
ia S
t.
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lvd. Tu
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t.
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den
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e A
ve.
Fulto
n St
.
Oak
St.
Hai
ght S
t.
Van Ness Ave.Polk St.
Hyde St.
Taylor St.
Grant Ave.
Stockton St.
Kearny St.
Battery St.
Colum
bus Ave
.
3rd St.
1st St.
4th St.
5th St.
6th St.
7th St.
8th St.
9th St.
10th Ave.
8th Ave.
6th Ave.
Jack
son
St.
Sutt
er S
t.
Post
St.
Gea
ry S
t.
Folsom
St.
Harriso
n St.
Bryant S
t.
Park Presidio Blvd.
Arguello Blvd.
Presidio Ave.Lyon St.
Fillmore St.
Gough St.
Sacr
amen
to S
t.
Franklin St.
Cal
iforn
ia S
t.
Divisadero St.
Irvi
ng S
t.
Fulto
n St
.
Mark
et St.
Mark
et St.
Uni
on S
t.
Mar
ina
Blv
d.
Howard St.
Great Highway
Fell
St.
10th St.
Powell St.
Lincoln Blvd.
Arguello Blvd.
Lin
coln Blvd.
Poin
t Lo
bos
Ave
.
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assu
s A
ve.
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16
The Best in Three DaysTh
e B
est
Full-
Day
To
urs
05_384374-ch01.qxp 11/13/08 10:39 PM Page 16
4 de Young Café. Grab a sand-wich made with fresh local ingredi-ents and enjoy it al fresco next tothe resplendent sculpture garden.50 Hagiwara Tea Garden Dr. y 415/750-2614. $.
1 ★ The Marina. Start your dayin this charming San Francisconeighborhood, where parentspushing strollers share the sidewalkwith young urbanites buying theirlattes before hopping on the bus to work. Window shop at the many boutiques before steppinginto the Grove (p 47). Fortify your-selves with a good breakfast beforetrekking the bridge. For more onChestnut Street, see p 46. @ 45min. Chestnut St., btw. Fillmore &Divisadero sts.
2 ★★★ Golden Gate Bridge.At any time of day, gleaming in sun-shine or draped in wispy white fog,this imposing red structure span-ning the narrow opening into theSan Francisco Bay—with thewooded Presidio on one end andthe golden Marin Headlands on theother—is a site to behold. Crossingthe bridge itself offers breathtakingviews of the SF skyline, the bayflecked with picturesque sailboats,and the area’s striking, hilly geogra-phy. If you don’t want to walk all theway across, you can head part ofthe way and then return. You canalso take a bus back. For moredetails, see p 39. @ 11⁄2–2 hr.; bestin the morning or midday, before thewind picks up. Bus: 28. Catch buswestbound on Lombard St. and exitat south end of Golden Gate Bridge.
3 ★★★ Golden Gate Park. Thepark itself is lovely but what reallymakes it special are the multitude ofattractions located within it; myfavorite is the de Young Museum.Visit the de Young first, so you can
grab lunch at the cafe (see nextstop). Then check out the CaliforniaAcademy of Sciences in its brand-new, very green home. After that,stroll through the serenely beautifulJapanese Tea Garden and the fasci-nating Conservatory of Flowers. Fora complete description, see theGolden Gate Park tour on p 89.Don’t miss the free trip up the deYoung’s observation tower forpanoramic city, park, and MarinHeadlands views.@ 2–3 hr. Bus: 28.Catch bus southbound; exit on Pre-sidio Park and Fulton St. and walkeast 4 blocks to de Young entrance.
17
For those who can stay three days in the city, we recommendthat you spend the third day visiting one of San Francisco’s most
celebrated landmarks, the Golden Gate Bridge. You’ll take in breath-taking views from there, as well as from the de Young tower inGolden Gate Park and again from the Top of the Mark in historic NobHill. Dress warmly. START: Chestnut and Fillmore streets. Bus 22 or 30.
The Best in
Three D
ays
Lake
St.
Cle
men
t St.
Gea
ry B
lvd
. Linc
oln
Way
Irvi
ng S
t.
43rd Ave.
36th Ave.
34th Ave.
30th Ave.
25th Ave.
14th
St.
Dub
oce
Ave
.
17th
St.
17th
St.
16th
St.
Stanyan St.
Ashbury St.Masonic St.
Castro St.
Church St.
Dolores St.
South Van Ness Ave.
Che
stnu
t St.
Lom
bard
St.
Bro
adw
ay
Cal
iforn
ia S
t.
Cal
iforn
ia S
t.
Gea
ry B
lvd. Tu
rk S
t.
Gol
den
Gat
e A
ve.
Fulto
n St
.
Oak
St.
Hai
ght S
t.
Van Ness Ave.Polk St.
Hyde St.
Taylor St.
Grant Ave.
Stockton St.
Kearny St.
Battery St.
Colum
bus Ave
.
3rd St.
1st St.
4th St.
5th St.
6th St.
7th St.
8th St.
9th St.
10th Ave.
8th Ave.
6th Ave.
Jack
son
St.
Sutt
er S
t.
Post
St.
Gea
ry S
t.
Folsom
St.
Harriso
n St.
Bryant S
t.
Park Presidio Blvd.
Arguello Blvd.
Presidio Ave.Lyon St.
Fillmore St.
Gough St.
Sacr
amen
to S
t.
Franklin St.
Cal
iforn
ia S
t.
Divisadero St.
Irvi
ng S
t.
Fulto
n St
.
Mark
et St.
Mark
et St.
Uni
on S
t.
Mar
ina
Blv
d.
Howard St.
Great Highway
Fell
St.
10th St.
Powell St.
Lincoln Blvd.
Arguello Blvd.
Lin
coln Blvd. A
ve
.
Poin
t Lo
bos
Ave
.
Parn
assu
s A
ve.
John
F. K
enne
dy D
r.
See
inse
t
The
Embarcadero
LIN
COLN
PA
RK
UN
ION
SQ
UA
RE
Aqu
atic
Park
GO
LDEN
GA
TE N
ATI
ON
AL
RECR
EATI
ON
AL
ARE
A
GO
LD
EN
GA
TE
PA
RK
BUEN
AVI
STA
PARK
PAN
HA
ND
LE
Bake
rBe
ach
Chin
aBe
ach
Ocean Beach
SO
MA
CO
W H
OLL
OW
Fort
Mas
on
CIV
IC C
ENTE
R
Coit
Tow
er
Cliff
Hou
se
TH
E P
RE
SID
IO
HA
IGH
T-A
SH
BU
RY
WES
TER
NA
DD
ITIO
N
HA
YES
VA
LLEY TH
EM
ISS
ION
JAP
AN
TOW
N
TEN
DER
-LO
IN
CH
INA
-TO
WN
FIN
AN
CIA
LD
ISTR
ICT
RU
SS
IAN
HIL
L
NO
RTH
BEA
CH
TELE
GR
AP
HH
ILL
THE
MA
RIN
A
PA
CIF
IC H
EIG
HTS
Sa
n F
ra
nc
isc
o B
ay
PA
CI
FI
C
OC
EA
NCr
issy
Fiel
d
Pres
idio
Golf
Cour
se
Ala
mo
Squa
re
INN
ER S
UN
SET
OU
TER
SU
NS
ET
OU
TER
RIC
HM
ON
D
INN
ERR
ICH
MO
ND
FIS
HER
MA
N’S
WH
AR
F
Ferr
yBu
ildin
g
SFM
OM
ALe
gion
of
Hon
or
San
Fran
cisc
o–O
akla
ndBa
y Br
idge
Mos
cone
Conv
enti
onCe
nter
Yerb
a Bu
ena
Gar
dens
AT&
TPa
rk
Uni
vers
ity
ofSa
n Fr
anci
sco
City
Hal
l
Ghi
rard
elli
Squa
rePa
lace
of
Fine
Art
s/Ex
plor
ator
ium
Japa
nCe
nter
Gol
den
Gat
e
Bri
dge
Fort
Poi
ntPI
ER 3
9
Calif
orni
aA
cade
my
of S
cien
ces
de Y
oung
Mus
eum
Stand on the Golden Gate Bridge andlook up—its bright red steel arches seemto touch the sky.
05_384374-ch01.qxp 11/13/08 10:39 PM Page 17
The view of the Transamerica Buildingfrom Nob Hill.
8 Top of the Mark. Head to the 19th floor lounge at the MarkHopkins Intercontinental, located on the site of a former Nob Hill man-sion. Make a toast and admire thepanoramic city view. Number 1 NobHill. (at Mason & California sts.)
y 415/392-3434. $$$. •The fountain in Huntington Park standswatch in front of Grace Cathedral.
5 Nob Hill. This neighborhood isnamed for its once wealthy residents,or “nabobs” as the elite of San Fran-cisco were known. The “Big Four” rail-road barons of the Southern PacificRailroad—Leland Stanford, Mark Hop-kins, Charles Crocker, and Collis Hunt-ington—built their ostentatiousmansions here in the late 1870s. Theywere all destroyed in the fire followingthe 1906 quake. Today some of thecity’s most prestigious hotels occupyNob Hill. @ 20 min. Taylor & Sacra-mento sts. From GG Park, take bus 33or 44 to California St., then take bus 1to Nob Hill. You’ll pass the Richmondand Pacific heights neighborhoodsalong the way.
6 ★ Grace Cathedral. Followingthe destruction of the Crocker man-sion in 1906, Crocker’s familydonated the land to the EpiscopalChurch to build Grace Cathedral.Completed in 1964, it’s built fromreinforced concrete beaten toachieve a stonelike effect. The doorsare stunning replicas of Ghiberti’sbronze Doors of Paradise in the
Baptistry of Florence; inside, the1840 organ and the stained-glasswindows impress. @ 25 min. 1100California St. (at Taylor St.) y 415/749- 6300. www.gracecathedral.org.Free admission.
7 Huntington Park. The man-sion of David Colton, another South-ern Pacific Railroad magnate, washere until he sold it to Collis Hunt-ington in 1892. The mansion burnedfollowing the 1906 quake, and Hunt-ington donated the lot to the city.The city used the land to createHuntington Park. Framed by thegranite walls that were once part ofthe Colton estate, the park is anoasis in a very urban section oftown. @ 15 min. Taylor & Californiasts. Bus: 1. Cable car: all lines.
18Th
e B
est
Full-
Day
To
urs
05_384374-ch01.qxp 11/13/08 10:39 PM Page 18
