MEETINGS: Fourth Thursday each month, 7:00 p.m. * Unless otherwise noted WHERE: San Joaquin County Building 2707 Transworld Drive Stockton, California *NEXT MEETING: Thursday, August 25

th, 2016

PRE MEETING DINNER: Denny’s Restaurant

Arch Road location 5:30 p.m.

STOCKTON CACTUS & SUCCULENT SOCIETY

C/O BRIAN POOT

5617 ANADA COURT

SALIDA, CA 95368

STOCKTON CACTUS & SUCCULENT SOCIETY

NEWSLETTER

AUGUST 2016

2016 BOARD:

President: Lesley Slayter (209) 679-3078 lesley_shores@yahoo.com

Vice President: Mary Bertken (209) 669-8846 mombquilt@yahoo.com

Treasurer: Roelyn Poot (209) 599-7241 billroelynpoot@gmail.com

Secretary: Faye Sutton (209) 620-5406 sutton5591@charter.net

Board Members: Jerry Slayter, Dawn Dalyce & Kathy Ackerman

Newsletter: Brian Poot (209) 679-8899 jeffgordonfan24@sbcglobal.net

BOARD MEETINGS: Please note, board meetings will now be held the second Wednesday of each month, at 7:00 p.m., except in December, or if that date conflicts with something else. Anyone is welcome to attend, but please call first to let them know you will be coming to make sure of the date. Thanks!

We can always use new ideas & opinions for the club, as well as help

with behind the scenes stuff. If you are interested, please come to a

board meeting. Thx!

MEMBERSHIP INFORMATION: Individual $20/yr Family $25/yr Contributing $35/yr Patron $50/yr

Membership runs January-December. Complimentary Jan. & Feb. issue if unpaid.

All dues should be sent

to the treasurer before

the February general

meeting.

CALENDAR:

August 10th - Board Meeting at the Poot’s 7:00 p.m. 25th - General Meeting 7:00pm: JD Wikert - "How about Haworthia"

September 14th - Board Meeting at the Poot’s 7:00 p.m. 22nd - General Meeting 7:00pm: Country Store October 14th - Board Meeting at the Poot’s 7:00 p.m. 22nd - General Meeting 7:00pm: TO BE DETERMINED

OTHER UPCOMING EVENTS: (not club related)

None

SUNSHINE REPORT:

HAPPY BIRTHDAY to: Roelyn Poot, Lesley Slayter, Maria Clausing,

Troy McQueen Jr. & Earl Lindgren.

THIS MONTHS MEETING: J.D. Wikert Our speaker for the August meeting will be J.D. Wikert. His presentation is titled: "How about Haworthia". J.D. will discus various aspects about members of this genus. The presentation will include information regarding taxonomy, distribution, cultivation, and propagation as well as providing pictures of many of the more readily available species as well as hybrids and cultivars. You might have seen J.D. speak in previous meetings about Stapeliads, Dudleya, Gasteria, Sedum, Senecio, and Adromischus and this talk will follow a similar format. Members are encouraged to bring their own Haworthia for the mini-show and to share their own Haworthia experiences with the club.

J.D. will bring the raffle plants, and have plants for sale, so be sure to bring your cash.

*Reminder to Monica, Autumn, Harry & Joanna, this is your month to bring refreshments.

*Reminder that we need someone to volunteer to be the greeter this month.

*Reminder to bring your own boxes for any plants that you buy or win.

LOOK FOR VARIETY IN SUCCULENT GARDENS: by Joan Morris 08-16-16

The beauty of nature is often seen in the almost infinite variety of plants. One way to experience that variety, said Brian Kemble, curator at the Ruth Bancroft Garden in Walnut Creek, Calif., is through experimentation and discovery. Kemble said no one knew for certain whether some of the succulents and cactuses at the Ruth Bancroft Garden could be grown in this climate. But through experimentation, including some failures, the garden world has learned just how adaptable plants can be. For example, Kemble said, Bancroft is fond of gasterias, which are native to the coast of South Africa, where it is never subjected to freezing temperatures. But Bancroft wanted to try them and in doing so, learned the gasterias, also known as tongue plants, do very well in our colder climate. They thrive in the shade, but when they were planted in partial sun, they produced different colors — red, purples and oranges. “You don’t learn without trying,” said Kemble.

Here are some tips for your succulent garden:

• Don’t think you know all about a plant because you have one variety. For an interesting garden, branch out. • Learn all you can about a plant to improve your chances of growing it successfully. Plant information — soil, sun and water requirements — are included with plants sold at Ruth Bancroft Garden and other botanic gardens. • There is great joy and excitement that comes from planting a small plant and seeing it grow. Succulents are slow growers, but they are worth the wait as they reveal themselves over time. • You can’t generalize about succulents. To diagnose problems, such as too much water or not enough, you have to consider the specific plant and species, and its individual needs. The plant will tell you what it needs. • It’s important to preserve plants in native habitats. Some are so rare and grow in such a small area that should disaster befall them, they would be lost forever. Botanic gardens help preserve plants by propagating outside those areas, and we can help by growing them in our gardens and supporting their continuance. • Gardens are not static. They grow and create their own changing conditions, meaning that we need to consider those changes and adjust when we can. • If you need to move a plant in your garden, be aware of what that might mean to the plant. If you move it from shade to sun, it may sunburn, and you may be moving from its protection against frost. • If you need to move a plant to a sunnier area, do so in degrees by draping it with three pieces of shade cloth, removing one layer every week. This will give the plant a chance to adjust to the new site. • If you’re planting in heavy clay soil, amend it with mulch and compost, and add in rocks to improve drainage. You also can build mounds using well-draining soil and rocks, and plant in those. The mounds also will add visual interest to your garden. • Succulents are slower growers and are not heavy feeders. You probably don’t need to fertilize, but if you do, use a diluted amount, about half of what is recommended for other plants.

JULY MINI SHOW RESULTS:

Novice Division, Cacti: 1st - Joan Stewart w/ Opuntia fulgida v. mamillata

2nd

- Ron Bradshaw w/ Monvillea spegazzinii

Novice Division, Succulent: 1st - Ron Bradshaw w/ Fockea sp.

Novice Division, Blooming: NON ENTERED

Advanced Division, Cacti: 1st - Barbara Coelho w/ Opuntia zebrina reticulata monstrose

2nd

- Barbara Coelho w/ Opuntia microdasys crestata

Advanced Division, Succulent: 1st - Barbara Coelho w/ Haworthia viscosa

2nd

- Barbara Coelho w/ Haworthia limifolia varigata

Advanced Division, Blooming: NON ENTERED

Open Division, Cacti: 1st - Bill Poot w/ Mammillaria bocasana "Fred"

Open Division, Succulent: 1st - Brian Poot w/ Pachypodium namaquanum

Open Division, Blooming: 1st - Roelyn Poot w/ Adenium obesum

Allied Interest: 1st - Ron Bradshaw w/ Dishgarden

2nd

- Barbara Coelho w/ Dishgarden

3rd

- Barbara Coelho w/ Succulent planter

MONTHLY MINI SHOW: OPEN TO ANY CLUB MEMBERS THAT WANT TO SHOW PLANTS! The mini show, held at the general meetings, is a time when you can bring your plants, to compete against other members’ plants. There are 10 categories: Cacti & Succulent, (Open, Advanced & Novice Divisions), Bloomers (anything in bloom, also three divisions) & Allied Interest (dish gardens or natural planters). You may bring up to 2 from each category. The forms for judging are available to take home so that you can fill them out prior to the meeting if you wish, or there will be some at the meeting as well. The plants are judged by the members attending that meeting; whoever receives the most votes wins that months mini show & will get their name in the next newsletter. The person(s) receiving the most votes at the end of the year will receive a gift from the club.

WE ENCOURAGE ALL MEMBERS TO BRING PLANTS TO SHOW THROUGHOUT THE YEAR!

FYI: The mini show categories are Novice - those with fewer than 5 years of showing in the mini-show. Advanced – those who have shown for more than 5 years in the mini-show & does not sell more than $300 in plants a year. Open – those who sell more than $300 in plants a year. Also you must own the plant for at least

6 months before you can show the plant in the mini show.

Brian Poot, Mini show coordinator

THE A TO Z OF GROWING SUCCULENTS: by Carol Bucknell 08-16-16 Succulents are one of the most popular plant groups in contemporary gardens, and it’s not hard to see why. They’re easy to grow, tough, drought tolerant and child’s play to propagate. And succulents are the perfect plant for containers, courtyards and roof gardens as they take intense sunlight and wind exposure in their stride. But like all plants, they still need the right growing conditions and care to put on their best performance. Pay a little attention to their needs and the succulents in your garden will reward you with sculptural style and year-round performance. Here are a few rules of green thumb to get you started.

Protect them from cold Although some succulents will cope with cold temperatures if their soil and leaves are kept dry, most do best if they’re sheltered from frost. Planting against a north-facing wall is a good option in cooler regions. If in containers, move succulents under the eaves of the house, a tree or onto the verandah if frosts are likely in your area. Stonecrops (Sedum) and houseleeks (Sempervivum) are some of the least frost-tender succulents while some yucca, Echeveria and Haworthia will tolerate light frosts.

Keep out of the rain Prolonged exposure to rain during cold winter months is anathema to most succulents. If their leaves are allowed to take up too much moisture, succulents become more vulnerable to frost damage. And the leaves of some low-growing species such as echeveria are liable to rot in very rainy weather. Choose a planting spot under the eaves or close to a wall for your succulents, or erect a temporary cover for winter protection. Super porous soil mixes will also help succulents survive in rainy regions.

Get the soil right Very free-draining, aerated soil is key to growing succulents well, both in the ground and in containers. If your soil is heavy clay you are better off growing succulents in pots. There are a variety of commercial potting mixes for succulents available now, or you can make your own by mixing a light potting mix with, crushed pumice, gravel or lava rock (4 parts potting mix to one of pumice, etc). A gravel mulch will also help prevent rotting in the stem of the plant. You can plant succulents into garden beds, provided the soil is well drained and doesn’t become too cold during winter. BONUS TIP: Adding pumice to the soil will help drainage, and mounding plants above soil level is also a good idea. Don’t forget that north-facing, sloping sites are ideal for succulents too.

Water carefully Succulents are xerophytes, which means they have adapted naturally to very little rainfall by storing water in their stems and leaves. However, they still do need to be watered, especially if they are growing in pots. Check the soil is reasonably dry before watering, as waterlogged soil is fatal to succulents. Soak well as you would other plants, but do it less often and always check for dryness beforehand. BONUS TIP: If the leaves look wrinkled it’s likely your succulent is too dry.

Feed sparingly Some gardeners never feed succulents, but the occasional feed can improve their growth and looks considerably. With potted succulents particularly, rain will leach out the nutrients in container mixes and these need to be replaced. Use a cacti and succulent fertiliser – or a quarter to half of the recommended amount of an all-purpose fertiliser – 3-4 times a year, but not during your succulent’s winter dormancy.

Monitor light levels Bright light is essential for succulents to maintain a good shape indoors or out. If conditions are too shaded, they can become stretched with lanky growth. But not all succulents do well in hot sunny conditions. Some do better if they receive only a few hours of morning sun in high summer, particularly in warmer areas. Letting them become too hot and parched can have a detrimental effect on leaf colour and shape. In hot north-facing gardens, it’s a good idea to protect succulents with shade cloth or, if planted in pots, moving them under a tree. Continued on next page.......

THE A TO Z OF GROWING SUCCULENTS: Continued

Keep an eye out for pests Succulents may be tough but they are not immune to pests. If soil conditions are good and they are well fed and watered, this should not happen too often. Aphids can be a problem with flowers and new growth, while mealy bugs will often set up shop in between leaves. In rainy weather, powdery mildew can also attack succulents, and in very warm weather ants like to invade potted plants. Although these pests and diseases may not kill your succulents, infestations need to be controlled as you would with any plant, to ensure their health and good performance. Try organic sprays such as neem oil on aphids and mealy bugs.

Propagate new plants Most plants look better in large groups, and succulents are no exception. Propagating most succulents is quite easy. Some will produce ‘pups’ around their base like these echeveria, many sempervivums and aloes do. Others, such as Gasteria and widow’s-thrill (Kalanchoe), will grow new plants from leaves and stems. Use a coarse medium such as pumice when propagating leaf or stem cuttings.

Plant in containers Succulents are ideal container specimens, many happy to grow in the same pot for years without needing to be repotted. Some succulent species will tolerate less light than others, so if you choose the right species you can grow succulents outside and indoors in pots. Getting the potting mix right (see above) is crucial, and you need to check drainage holes regularly to avoid wet soil rotting plants.

Group with like-minded plants The sculptural form of succulents can make a wonderful contrast with grasses and perennials. Always choose plants that tolerate the same free-draining, dry conditions as this makes maintenance easier and works better aesthetically. Combining larger succulents such as Agave and yucca with ground covers like stonecrops and

Echeveria's also very effective.

SUN-LOVING SUCCULENTS ARE A HOT ADDITION TO YOUR HOME: by Marni Jameson 07-23-16 I had just set my travel bags down in my daughter’s new place in Houston, a second-floor duplex she’s renting while she goes to grad school, when I lit on the containers of succulents she had around the place. “These are fabulous,” I said, feeling slightly marginalized, since, after all, I had come over the hill from Florida like the cavalry to help her decorate, and now was seeing that, perhaps, (was it possible?) she didn’t need my help. “I can’t keep anything alive,” Paige said, confirming we’re related. I thought about the two fried flower pots flanking my back door, which I had just replanted for the third time this summer. I had burned through both the sun impatiens I planted in June and the wild roses I planted a few weeks later. I had just put in some geraniums, which were already struggling and would surely be toast by the time I got back from my weekend away. At that point, I was planning to turn the large planter pots into botanical burial grounds with little grave markers: Here lie the noble remains of Impatiens and Rose, which valiantly gave up their lives in the vain pursuit of beauty, RIP. “Where did you get this idea?” I asked my daughter. “I think succulents are really cool,” she said. “They’re all over Pinterest, and in all the millennial lifestyle blogs.” “Tells you where I haven’t been,” I said, feeling now both marginalized and out of date. “They don’t die, and they come in a bunch of colors. Plus, you always said, you should have something living in every room.” “I did?” “Yes.” “Well, I agree with myself.” “Besides, I can’t afford some fancy blown-glass bowl for the coffee table, or fresh flowers every week.” “Your daughter is right on target,” said Tim Obert, live goods merchant for Home Depot, whom I called to find out if this succulent fixation was truly a trend. He confirmed it.

Continued on next page.......

SUN-LOVING SUCCULENTS ARE A HOT ADDITION TO YOUR HOME: Continued “Succulents are popular, especially among millennials,” he said, adding that sales in that category have been trending up steadily for the past five years. “They’re cool and hip partly because they are perceived as not so traditional.” “You mean where we moms might have put begonias, hydrangeas, azaleas or roses, millennials are putting succulents?” “Millennials lean toward less showy gardens,” said Obert. “They are more minimalistic.” “Which makes my generation gluttonous, overdone heathens,” I said, feeling now marginalized, out of date and excessive. “We are even seeing them in wedding bouquets,” he said. “I may be old fashioned, but that’s taking it too far.” What also makes succulents hot sellers is that they are dummy proof, said Obert. “They work well indoors and out, look good year round, are low maintenance, require little water, can take the heat, thrive on neglect and need no-to-low fertilizer. And, unlike fresh flowers, succulents can last for years, even decades.” I am paying attention. I tell Obert about my frazzled flowerpots. Succulents are a perfect planter choice for hot patios, said Obert, adding that he has succulents outside his home in San Diego. “That doesn’t count,” I said. “You can put a Popsicle stick in the ground in San Diego and it will grow. “I have one blooming now,” he said. I had to admit, Paige was onto something. Youth today. Sometimes they teach you stuff. Here’s what to know if you want some succulent savvy:

• Let the sun shine on. Succulents thrive in a wide range of climates, said Obert. The only weather they really don’t like is freezing. Indoors or out, these plants like a sunny spot.

• Don’t overwater. The most common mistake people make is watering them too much. Succulents are designed to get along without water. Give them a small sprinkle every two to three weeks.

• Keep roots dry. Plant succulents in soil that allows good drainage, so roots don’t stay wet, he said. Use cactus mix, not regular potting soil.

• Plant with like plants. Plant succulents alongside other xeriscape plants. Don’t mix them with annuals or traditional shrubs, because the soil and care levels differ.

• Go for high-low looks. When creating a succulent planter, use a mix of heights, textures and colors. A taller centerpiece plant, such as aloe, agave or jade, creates a good focal point. Around that add shorter specimens like echeveria or kalanchoe. Near the edge, add a trailing variety, like fishhook or string of pearls, which cascade.

• Mix color and texture. Though all succulents flower, if minimally, their appeal is not in their blooms, but in their varied color, texture and leaf shapes, Obert said. Put velvety grey next to crisp green and darker green or purple. Some varieties actually change color, and get darker depending on their sun exposure. Echeveria comes in lavender, firestick comes in orange and yellow. Choices are getting even better as breeders develop more varieties that better tolerate cold climates, and come in more colors and textures.

• Go for cover. Some succulents, including those in the sedum family, like dragon’s blood, make excellent, drought-tolerant groundcovers, and can be a more water wise alternative to grass.

• Divide and multiply. One of the characteristics of succulents is that they are easy to propagate, said Obert. Just break off a piece and stick it in the ground.

• Neglect them. The best way to care for your succulents is to leave them alone. Now, that’s my kind of

plant.

JULY MEETING 2016 - PHOTO'S BY BRIAN POOT