1

WESSEX BRANCH WESTERN FRONT ASSOICATION

BATTLEFIELD TOUR “CHEMIN DES DAMES” 14 th -17 th SEPTEMBER 2017

We departed from Pimperne on our 14th Battlefield Tour at 0500

hours on a dark, chilly and autumnal Thursday morning. Reunited

once again with Derek our driver from Mainline, accompanied by

his wife, we drove towards Salisbury. Stopping there, more

members joined our tour party which was completed at Fleet

services with the addition of another member. Leaving thirty

minutes later, we resumed our journey and made very good

progress arriving at the Dover Ferry terminal at 0915 hours. Being

ahead of schedule and passing through passport control we boarded

the P & O Ferry ‘Spirit of Burgundy’ which sailed for Calais at

1030 hours. Passing by the entrance into the harbour and viewed from the starboard side, there is

an imposing War Memorial at the end of the quay commemorating three British regiments who

participated in the Defence of Calais in May 1940. The text of the inscription reads: ‘To The

Glory Of God And In Memory Of All Riflemen Of The King’s Royal Rifle Corps, The Rifle

Brigade And Queen Victoria’s Rifles Who Fell Defending Calais May 23-26 1940’. Docking at

1115 hours (French time), after a comfortable channel crossing we drove out of the port along

the A26 towards Lens.

Exiting the A26 we turned on the D937 and made a stop at Souchez to visit the ‘Lens 14-18’

War & Peace History Centre, a new museum dedicated to the Great War situated at the bottom

of the hill of Notre-Dame-de-Lorette. We were greeted at the entrance to the museum by a

friendly and enthusiastic staff. Designed by Pierre-Louis Faloci, the building is a complex

structure of black concrete cubes – called chapels. The exhibition, produced by Yves Le Maner,

sets out in thematic and chronological order the progression of the First World War, using

museographic techniques, film, photographs, artefacts, letters and maps. Visitors are able to

access, the records of 580,000 soldiers, commemorated on the Ring of Remembrance – The

International Memorial of the Notre-Dame-de-Lorette, inaugurated on the 11th November 2014.

The Wessex Branch WFA was the first branch to visit the museum which everyone enjoyed and

found interesting. It is worthy of inclusion into an itinerary of a future battlefield tour.

Leaving at 1515 hours and continuing on D937 we had good distant views of the Double

Crassier and passed by a number of large First World War Cemeteries. In Cabaret Rouge British

Cemetery there are 7,650 burials of British Empire servicemen, over 50% of them are

2

unidentified. The cemetery gets its name from a nearby café built in red brick with red roof tiles

which was totally destroyed in May 1915. The cemetery was begun in March 1916 and

continued to be used until September 1918. In May 2000 the remains of an unknown Canadian

soldier was removed and re-interred in a tomb at the foot of the National War Memorial in

Canada. His original grave in still marked in the cemetery.

La Targette British Cemetery Neuville-St-Vaast, formerly known as Aux-Rietz Military

Cemetery contains 638 burials of the First World War, 41 of them unidentified and 3 Second

World War graves, only one of which is identified. The cemetery begun in April 1917 was used

by Field Ambulance units until September 1918.

Nearly one-third of the casualties are artillerymen. La

Targette French Cemetery, Neuville-St-Vaast,

contains 11,443 burials of the First World War and

593 of the Second World War. Most of the former

casualties were killed during the Second Battle of

Artois fought in May and June 1915. French colonial

troops are buried in a Muslim section. Remains of the unidentified of both world wars were

placed in an ossuary. Both of these cemeteries, adjacent to each other occupy a land area of over

50,000 square metres.

Neuville-St-Vaast German Military Cemetery is the largest German military cemetery in France.

Containing 44,833 burials of which 8,040 are unidentified and lie in a mass grave. The majority

of the burials were concentrated here from other cemeteries north and east of Arras between

1919 and 1923. A large monument was erected in the cemetery after the war to commemorate

soldiers of the Hanoverian Infantry Regiment No.164.

We remained on the D937 and drove into Arras for a one hour break taking the opportunity for a

walk and refreshments. Leaving Arras at 1545 hours re-joining the A26 we motored on until we

reached the Vis-en-Artois Memorial and Cemetery, at Haucourt. Prior to getting off the coach

Rod gave a talk about the cemetery and memorial. He gave brief biographical details about three

posthumous Victoria Cross recipients, who are commemorated on the memorial ~ Corporal

Allan Leonard Lewis VC 8th Battalion, Northamptonshire Regiment, Chief Petty Officer George

Prowse VC DCM “Drake” Battalion, Royal Naval Division and Sergeant Frederick Charles

Riggs VC MM 6th Battalion, York and Lancaster Regiment. Members then spent time in the

cemetery and looking at the memorial panels before we departed there at 1715 hours. A pleasant

early evening drive took us towards Reims. At 1845 hours we arrived at our hotel in Tinqueux

3

on the outskirts of Reims. Assigned to our rooms with time to freshen up, after which members

then gathered together for an evening meal before retiring to bed.

After breakfast on Friday morning we left our hotel a 0900 hours looking forward to a full day’s

battlefield tour beginning at Fort de la Pompelle. Before we got off the coach Martin outlined

the history of the fort and the fighting which took place in this sector during the war. Situated

beside the D931 the fort also known as Fort Herbillon was one of a series of forts in Séré de

Riviéres system built between 1880 and 1883. General Raymond Séré de Riviéres (1815-1895)

was the originator of this system to build a series of forts along the frontiers and coast of France

as a defensive barrier’s against potential invaders. Most were obsolescent by 1914 but the

principle of fortified towns as defensive screens which could be used for counter-attacks or as a

defensive curtain to block the progress of an aggressor remained extant. Surrounding Fort de la

Pompelle is a dry moat which was covered by two level caponiers designed to provide flanking

fire on any belligerent trying to cross the moat. The fort’s main armament of 6 x 150mm guns, 4

x 138mm guns, plus smaller artillery pieces and machine guns was garrisoned by 270 artillery

troops. In 1913 the fort was demilitarised but on the outbreak of the First World War it was

reinstated and fully garrisoned. The Germans occupied Fort de la Pompelle on the 4th September

1914 but were driven out by the French on the 26th. The fort became an important part of the

French defensive network around the Reims. Although assaulted and subjected to intense

German shellfire it remained in the possession of the French throughout the war.

In 1916 Tsar Nicholas II sent two Russians brigades to support the French in defending the fort

and a French naval unit was deployed nearby to bombard the German lines. In the spring of

1918 during the Second Battle of the Marne the German launched three attacks, supported in

June with tanks. These assaults were repelled by the 1st Colonial Infantry Corps. At the end of

the First World War the fort was abandoned and put up for sale in 1955. Purchased by the

Fedération Nationale André Maginot they sold it to the city of Reims for one franc! Fort de la

Pompelle had been classed as an historic monument in 1922 and is now a museum which

opened in November 1972, having been renovated and the structure stabilised. For the First

World War centennial events Reims city authorities financed essential repairs, refurbished the

interior and improved visitor facilities.

By the side of the wide pathway leading to the fort’s entrance is a demarcation stone, marking

the furthest line reached by the Germans in 1918. They were created by the sculptor Paul

Mareau -Vauthier (1871-1936) and erected along the 650-kilometre front from the Belgian coast

to the Franco-Swiss border. They were paid for by charitable donations and in Belgium there are

4

22 and 96 in France. The La Pompelle marker was paid for by the Mexican Association of War

Veterans. The New Mexico Infantry Regiment of three battalions were mobilised for war on the

24th April 1917 and the regiment became part of the 40th Division of the American National

Guard. They were reorganised into the 143rd Machine-Gun Battalion and the 115th Train HQ &

Military Police Battalion. The First New Mexico Artillery were assigned to the 146th Field

Artillery Regiment, 66th Artillery Brigade in the 41st US Infantry Division and after arrival in

France entered the front lines with the Americans in July 1918. When the 40th Division arrived

in France they became a depot division for training and supplying reinforcements drafts to

depleted American front line units. Two hundred Mexicans fought in the ranks of the French

Colonial Corps in Reims sector in 1918. Displayed in an open area in front of the fort are two

artillery pieces one French the other Italian. In the glorious morning sunshine we had a group

photograph taken in front of the Russian Memorial, erected in September 2012.

Fort de la Pompelle museum has a magnificent collection of artefacts and memorabilia displayed

throughout the underground passages and side

chambers. Forming the centrepiece of the

collection are over 100 pickelhaubes,

headdresses, emblems and arms of the Imperial

German Army spanning the years 1870-1914,

assembled by Charles Friesé (1901-1970). An

inveterate collector he was born in Paris, served

in the latter stages of the First World War and the

French Moroccan Campaign of 1921-23 as an engineer officer. During the Second World War

he was Deputy Mayor of Nantes and from 1947 to 1962 the cities architect. His first class

collection of 560 items was donated to the Fort de la Pompelle museum. All the members spent

a pleasurable time in this splendid museum and had plenty to talk about when we got back into

our coach.

We left the fort at 1145 hours and drove back towards Reims along the D944 and passed by

some of the 1,146 mile-stone markers of the La voie de la Liberté – Liberty Road. This

commemorative way beginning at Sainte-Mére-Eglise marks the route of the Allied Forces

advance from D-Day in June 1944 across northern France to Bastogne in southern Belgium.

Continuing along the D944, we crossed the Aisne and passed through the village of Berry-au-

Bac where at a roundabout leading to junction 14 of the A26 is a monument to the French

Armoured Corps. Standing beside Schneider CA tank, Martin gave a detailed and fascinating

talk about the formation of the French Tank Corps and their attack on the Chemin-des-Dames.

5

The memorial stands on the site, which was

once known as Le Choléra crossroads from

where the tanks advanced in their first

operational deployment on the opening day of

the Nivelle offensive, the 16th April 1917. [he

name given to the crossroads originates from a

farm called La Ferme du Cholera. Major Louis

Bossut who led the attack was killed along with

his tank crew. Despite the bravery displayed by the

tank crews in advancing towards the German line it

was a disastrous day for the French Armoured Corps,

both in lives and equipment. General Jean Baptiste

Estienne who had the foresight to realise the potential

of tanks and that their use could be a decisive factor in

battle is also commemorated by an impressive

memorial situated on the green lawn aisle leading up to the French Armoured Corps Memorial.

Moving on from the French Armoured Corps Memorial we stopped at the village of La Ville-

aux-Bois-les-Pontavert passing by a British cemetery. La Ville-aux-Bois British Cemetery has

564 burials of which 413 are unidentified, and two of the Second World War and one

Frenchman. Approaching the village on the D89 we were temporarily held up by the French

police as there had been a remembrance service at the memorial to the 2nd Devonshire Regiment.

In the area over the weekend there was a celebratory rugby tournament between French and

British clubs. As we waited in the coach we watched those who had attended service stroll past

us including villagers, three of them carrying French standards of military associations, British

Army personnel and players of various rugby clubs. Waved on by the police our coach stopped

near the large and impressive memorial to the 2nd Devonshire Regiment.

The regiment fought a defensive action against an overwhelming attack by the Germans on the

27th May, 1918. Chris gave a detailed account of the action and about some of the participants,

many of whom were killed including the commanding officer. Following this talk Phil gave an

informative talk about the 5th (Gibraltar) Battery RFA and its history who, fought in the same

action in the nearby Bois des Buttes and suffered similar heavy losses. A plaque on the wall of

the Marie, opposite the 2nd Devonshire Memorial records these events. For their heroic deeds

and sacrifice the 2nd Devonshire Regiment and 5th (Gibraltar) Battery RFA were awarded the

Croix de Guerre avec Palme en Bronze by General Denis Auguste Duchêne (1862-1950) who

6

commanded the French 6th Army. The ribbon is still worn today on the No.1 and No.2 Dress of

the 5th Battery RFA and the Rifles maintaining a proud

remembrance of those who fought on that day. During the

earlier remembrance service wreaths had been placed around

the memorial by the 12 Regiment RA Rugby Team, Trojan

RFC, 2 Royal Hampshire Regiment, Cowbridge RFC and by

local residents. After a suitable period of reflection we

continued our drive admiring the panoramic views of the

French countryside as we steadily ascended the hill side of the

Chemin-des-Dames towards the California Plateau.

The Chemin des Dames – literally the ‘ladies path’ is part of

the D18 and runs east and west in the department of the Aisne between in the west the N2 Laon

to Soissons motorway and in the east the D1044 at Corbeny. Approximately 30-kilometres long

it traverses a ridge between the valleys of the Aisne and Ailette rivers. The name originates from

the 18th century when the daughters of Louis XV , who were known as the ‘Ladies of France’

used this route to travel between the Château de Boves, on the Ailette river and Paris. During the

First World War three battles were fought along the Chemin des Dames: First Battle of the

Aisne in 1914 – Anglo-French counter offensive following the First Battle of the Marne; Second

Battle of the Aisne in 1917, during the Nivelle Offensive and the Third Battle of the Aisne in

1918, during Operation Blücher part of the German Spring Offensive. The sacrifice of lives in

the intense fighting in the Chemin-des-Dames sector is reflected by the number of memorials

and cemeteries to be found in the area. It is a sobering thought that only 50% of the casualties

buried in those cemeteries are identified.

Travelling towards the California Plateau Rod subjected us to a ‘bit of culture’. Firstly we

listened to La Chanson de Craonne – The Song of Craonne sung by Emma Liebel. This 1917

anti-war song was banned in France until 1974. Sung by French soldiers who mutinied after the

failure of the Nivelle offensive at the Chemin des Dames in the spring of 1917. It was also

known by the first line of the chorus – Adieu la vie (Goodbye to Life).

The village of Craonne was obliterated during the war and was not rebuilt. The new modern

village of Craonelle was built nearby at the foot of the Chemin des Dames. Martin spoke about

the village and the terrible consequences of the war quoting facts and figures. Driving along the

D18 we passed the Basque Memorial unveiled on the 30th September 1928 commemorating the

people of the Basque country who died on the Chemin de Dames in the First World War. There

7

is also a statue of Napoleon looking down from the Chemin des Dames onto what would have

been the scene of one his battles in 1814. The whole length of the D18 road which runs along

the Chemin des Dames is marked by continuous blue lines on either side of the road.

Arriving at the eastern end of Chemin des Dames the California Plateau overlooks the villages

of Craonne and Craonelle. The name given to the plateau probably derives from a 19th century

property owner Henri Vasnier (1832-1907) a wine merchant and art collector, who lived near

Craonne. With interests in vineyards, farming, forestry, quarrying, zoology he also cultivated a

botanical garden. Some sources refer to the fact that Henri called his botanical garden

‘California Garden’ others that his home was called ‘California’ either way California Plateau

perpetuates the name associated with Henri Vasnier.

By the orientation table on the top of the hill with its scenic and panoramic views all the way to

Reims, Rod spoke about the battles fought in 1917. The Chemin des Dames and surrounding

area, a natural fortress was incorporated into the German defensive line and the California

Plateau was a sought after strategic prize during the war. With a network of underground tunnels

and fortified caves the whole area today is associated with Nivelle’s failures.

The plateau after the war was classed by the French as a ‘Red Zone’ and farming and forestry

was banned due the detritus of war. Although a small area is still closed to the public for reasons

of safety, today it is a French National Forest and

Arboretum and a haven for visitors and walkers.

On completion of Rod’s talk members had free

time to walk around the forested hill top following

a circular route. About one-third of the way round

is a high wooden observation tower where the

views from the top are outstanding particularly on

a sunny day. A heavy shower did not dampen spirits and those who chose to do so, continued

their walk around the woodland pathway. There is a neglected memorial about half-way round,

the inscription of which was difficult to read but it was possible to make out a reference to the

34eme Regiment d’Infanterie. Set into the hillside more-or-less opposite the orientation table on

the opposite of the D18 road there used to be a large bronze sculpture, four metres high by Haïm

Kern (born 1930) and entitled ‘They Did Not Choose Their Graves’. It was stolen in 2004 and

only a small piece of bronze remains, hardly noticeable on the plinth. More about this will be

mentioned later. With Friday’s programmed itinerary completed there was time available with

Derek’s co-operation for a relaxing drive along the whole of D18.

8

9

Displays in the Fort de la Pompelle

Museum

At the cross-roads of the D18/D967

is the village of Cerny-en-

10

Laonnois. In 1914 the only building here was a sugar factory, which was strongly fortified by

the Germans. On the 5th September 1914, General Joseph Joffre (1852-1931) launched an

offensive, supported by the British, which reached the Aisne River between Venizel and Berry-

au-Bac on the 13th. Brought to a halt the following day the British began digging trenches on the

southern slopes of the Chemin des Dames between Vendresse and the Cerny-en-Laonnois sugar

factory. Each of the combatants strove to penetrate their opponent’s defensive line between

Cerny-en-Laonnois and Craonne throughout the remaining months of 1914. The Germans in

early 1915 captured the Chemin de Dames during an attack in the Dragon’s Cave and began

fortifying the position. Two years later Nivelle’s failure led to his replacement by Pétain who

with limited objectives between the Aisne and Ailette regained lost ground. In May 1918 the

Germans launched Operation Blücher to recapture the position. In October a counter-offensive

of the Second Battle of the Marne forced the Germans to retreat.

By the roadside of the D18/D967 cross-roads is a non-denominational chapel – Memorial of the

Chemin des Dames – which was officially opened on the 22nd April 1951 to commemorate all

the units and those who were killed in the battles of 1917. French veterans, Jewish organisations,

the Catholic and Protestant churches initiated the building of this chapel. There is a lantern for

the dead facing the chapel as a remembrance of the sacrifice of the fallen in defending their

homeland. Close by the chapel is an impressive Greek style pillar erected in memory of the 1st

Battalion, Loyal North Lancashire Regiment who were killed in their attack on the sugar factory

in September 1914. There is also a memorial to the French 38th Division d’Infanterie who

participated in the battles along the Chemin des Dames in September 1914 and autumn of 1917.

Across the D18 road, opposite the chapel is Cerny-en-Laonnois French National Cemetery

containing 5,150 burials of which 2,386 lie in ossuaries and 54 Russian casualties. The cemetery

was created in 1919, completed six years later and renovated in 1972. The adjacent German War

Cemetery, opened in 1924 contains the remains of 7,526 Germans, of which 3,533 are in

individual graves, 46 are unknown and 3,993 remains were placed in an ossuary.

Continuing in the direction of Soissons, Martin brought to our attention some the memorials as

we passed by them. At the western end of the Chemin des Dames at the intersection of the

N2/D18 is a 14-metre high Calvary with a figure of Christ 3-metres long known as the Cavalry

of the Guardian Angel. Inaugurated on the 14th September 1924 in remembrance of soldiers who

were killed in the battles of the Chemin des Dames and Malmaison, it was restored in 1977.

Close to the roadside shortly before the Fort Malmaison on the D18 is a memorial to the

Regiment of Colonial Infantry. The Regiment on the 23rd October 1917 captured the quarries of

11

Bohéry, then part of the trench lines on the Chemin des Dames and all their objectives. The

memorial was inaugurated on the 8th July 1934.

The Fort at La Malmaison was built c.1877 as part of the defence line guarding Paris. In 1886

the French chose the fort to test the power of artillery shells as cannonballs had become

obsolete. Two hundred shells were fired at the ramparts and walls of the fort and the unexpected

destructive power of the shells surprised all those who were present. To effect temporary repairs

concrete was poured over the damaged sections. Financial considerations prevented upgrading

of the fort and in 1912 all the guns were removed and the structure put up for sale. As the

Germans advanced in 1914 the French abandoned the fort. The Germans however incorporated

the ruins into their defence of the Chemin des Dames. General Phillippe Pétain (1856-1951)

having replaced General Robert Nivelle (1856-1924) was of the opinion that a small scale

victory would raise the morale of his troops. He ordered General Maistre (1858-1922),

commander of the 6th Army to capture the western end of the Chemin des Dames including Fort

Malmaison. General Maistre had available tanks, aircraft and two thousand guns. Before the

French troops advanced on the 23rd October 1917 a bombardment on the 17th reduced the fort to

rubble. The operation was a limited success and satisfied with the outcome General Pétain halted

the advance on the 25th. The casualties sustained by the French were 2,000 dead and 14,000

wounded and missing. The German casualties were estimated to be over 20,000 with 13,000

taken as prisoners. The German line had been seriously weakened and fearing another French

offensive they abandoned their positions along the Chemin des Dames the following week. On

the 27th May, 1918 the Germans retook the ruined and desolate fort and the Chemin des Dames

ridge. In late September the French re-captured the fort and subsequently drove the Germans

from the Aisne. At Moulin de Laffaux is the Monument de Crapoullets – The Trench Mortar

Monument commemorating 12,000 trench mortar operators (Crapoullets) who died on the

Western Front during the First World War. There is also a memorial to the French Fusilier

Marins as well as other numerous memorials, both private and to French units. Leaving the D18

we turned on to the D23/D95 and drove through Bucy-de-Long a lovely French village in the

department of the Aisne and from there joined the N31 back to Reims arriving at our hotel by

1730 hours.

Saturday morning dawned fine and sunny as we set out along the D944/D925. The sun was

gradually penetrating the autumnal mist that still cloaked the flat rolling countryside. Martin

outlined the day’s itinerary, drawing our attention to the area of the Aisne that the BEF held in

1914. At the village of Pontavert is The Beaurepaire French National Cemetery, begun in 1915

and enlarged after the Armistice. It contains over 7,000 French burials, 67 British of which 32

12

are unidentified and 54 Russians. The remains of 1,364 French soldiers lie in a mass grave and

within the cemetery is a memorial to the 31eme Regiment d’Infanterie. Pontavert was totally

destroyed during the war and rebuilt during the years after the Armistice. At the village of

d’Oeuilly is the Cimetiere Militaire Francais, which contains 1,159 burials. There is also a

memorial in the cemetery to the 1/163eme Regiment d’Infanterie who, were killed in 1917. As we

drove through Bourg-et-Comin, where the British 1st Division crossed the Aisne in September

1914, Martin explained to us the details of the operation. At Pont-Arcy there is an iron bridge

which replaced the original bridge destroyed by the Germans in the First World War.

Our first stop of the day at 0930 hours was made at Soupir No.1 and No.2 French and German

cemeteries on the D925. There was an evocative atmosphere in these cemeteries as mist still

hung over the rows of headstones. Soupir French Military Cemetery No.1 originated from a

nearby Casualty Clearing Station in 1917 used by the French and German troops. In 1920 the

cemetery was enlarged by the concentration of graves from smaller cemeteries. There are 7,806

French casualties, 1 Belgian and 1

Russian in the cemetery. (The

Russians fought in this sector in

1917). Approximately half of the

French casualties are buried in

individual graves and three mass

graves contains the remains of

3,088 and four common graves

contain 266 brought in from

cemeteries at Vieil-Arcy, Athies-sous-Laon, Glennes and Pargney-Filain. With so many bodies

from each of the combatants found on the battlefields the German Military Cemetery adjoins the

French Cemetery. There are no barriers or obstacle between them only the stone material of the

crosses, differentiate the two sides. Bodies continued to the recovered long after the war was

over and continued to be concentrated in No.1 Cemetery.

However, it was necessary in 1934 to create Soupir No.2 Cemetery on the opposite side of the

D925 road. British casualties were buried in local churchyards and the Italians created their own

separate cemetery nearby. The German section was enlarged in 1920 as remains were brought in

from 143 locations within a 30-kilometre radius to the cemetery. The latter contains 11,089

casualties of which 5,134 have individual graves, 19 of them unknown and 5,995 lie in a mass

grave in the centre of the cemetery. Only 794 were identified and are commemorated on plaques

around the mass grave. Those buried here were killed in the Soissons-Reims sector in 1914,

13

1917 and 1918. In 1972 the original wooden crosses were replaced by stone. The French section

of Soupir No.2 Cemetery contains 2,829 soldiers and civilians killed during First and Second

World Wars. Among the burials are two unknown British casualties, five Belgian, twenty-seven

Russians and one German. In 1954, 545 French casualties who died in May-June 1940 were

buried in the cemetery. The remains of thirty-three Belgian civilians killed during the Second

World War were brought in from Communal Cemeteries at Laon and reinterred in the cemetery.

A five minute drive from Soupir No.1 and No.2 cemeteries brought us to Soupir Italian

Cemetery. In front of the cemeteries

entrance gate Martin briefed us about the

reasons why the Italians had fought in

France. The cemetery contains 592 Italian

casualties who died in the Chemin-des-

Dames sector. In the centre of the cemetery

are two large bronze open book monuments

either side of a flag pole. The inscriptions, in

French and Italian commemorate the 9,000

Italian soldiers of the 2nd Army who were killed in France during the war. At the far end of the

cemetery is a sculpture by Fernando Cian (1889-1954). Inaugurated in 1921 the monument was

initiated by Italian women to commemorate all Italians who had died in France.

On leaving the Italian cemetery we drove to Vailly-sur-Aisne and stopped at Vailly British

Cemetery. Standing beside the Cross of Sacrifice Rod related to us the history of the cemetery

and gave biographical details about some of the casualties in the cemetery. On conclusion of his

talk we held a short service of remembrance. Mandy and Roger laid a wreath on behalf of the

Wessex WFA Branch at the Cross of Sacrifice and after a two minute silence the oration was

given by Steve. Members were then free to look around the cemetery.

A posthumous recipient of the Victoria Cross, Captain Theodore Wright 56th Company, Royal

Engineers is buried here. The award of the Victoria Cross was announced in the London Gazette

of the 14th November 1914 for his gallantry at Mons in attempting to demolish a bridge over the

Mons-Conde canal and at Vailly where the 56th and 57th Companies built a pontoon bridge

across the Aisne during the night of the 13th-14th September, 1914 for the 5th Cavalry Brigade to

cross. The cavalry were forced to withdraw from the town under heavy artillery fire and Captain

Wright was mortally wounded whilst making repairs to the bridge. His Victoria Cross medal

group are on display at the Royal Engineers Museum at Brompton, near Chatham in Kent along

14

with his original battlefield grave cross and letters donated

by his descendants in 2004.

We left Vailly and drove up the D15 onto the Chemin des

Dames to visit the onsite museum at the Cavern du Dragon,

arriving there at 1130 hours for a mid-day guided tour.

Erected over and above an opening into the Carriére de la

Creute, a 16th century limestone quarry is the contemporary

concrete and glass building housing the museum of the

Cavern du Dragon. In the local dialect a quarry is known as

a CREUTE. Members enjoyed a welcome break and hot

drinks before a charming young French lady led us down to

the entrance of the cavern and tunnel system. During the

First World War the Germans converted the quarry into an underground fortress – named the

Drachenhöhle – Dragon’s Lair where some of the bloodiest fighting on the Western Front took

place. It is now a place of pilgrimage for the descendants of those who died here.

As we moved on through the cavern our attention was drawn by our guide to the marks made by

the tools of the stone masons and inscriptions on the roof in black. Numerous artefacts are on

display along with modern works of art paying tribute to those who fought and died in the

Cavern du Dragon. One chamber has series of red lanterns symbolising the souls of the dead.

The guide gave us interesting talk about the Battle of Creute in January 1915 and the two day

offensive which resulted in significant casualties for both sides. The Germans snidely renamed

the Battle of Creute, the Battle of Craonne of 1915 as a consequence of a battle fought a century

before when Napoleon defeated Prussian and Russian troops. She also described the Nivelle

offensive of April 1917 with all its tragic consequences – the Second Battle of the Aisne (16th-

25th April 1917) – in which the French objective was to break the 80-kilometre long German

defensive line between Reims and Soissons, by breeching the Chemin des Dames. The Germans

held the high ground, 80-metres above the French below. French casualties between the 16th-

25th amounted 134,000 and Nivelle was replaced by Pétain. German casualties were similar to

those of the French. On the 25th June, the French captured the Cavern du Dragon. During the

battle the Germans renamed La Creute quarry Drachenhöhle – Dragon’s Lair – Cavern du

Dragon from the flame of their flamethrowers emerging out of the quarry’s entrance seemingly

like flames out of a dragon’s nostrils! Two of the underground chambers are listed as dangerous

due the unstable lime stone structure, munitions and bodies still lie entombed after 100 years. It

is with regret our guide commented, that the museum staff cannot safely extricate these bodies

15

for burial. We emerged after 1½ hours into bright sunlight from a first class informative guided

tour and very much appreciated by the members.

Given a short break we gathered together on the viewing veranda looking down over the slopes

of the Chemin des Dames to hear a talk by Phil on artillery tactics during the war, with an

emphasis on Colonel Georg Bruchmüler (1863-1948) who influenced the development of the

use of German artillery on the field of battle. Erected on the observation platform on the 16th

April, 2017 is a sculpture “They Didn’t Choose Their Graves” by Haïm Kern replacing that

stolen from the California Plateau. A notice by the

sculpture explains: ‘A work of art commissioned by the

State for the 80th anniversary of the Armistice of 11

November 1918, this sculpture by Haïm Kern called “Ils

n’ont pas choisi leur sépulture” and erected in November

1998 on the Plateau de California in Craonne, was stolen

on August 2004. In order to repair the shameful outrage

to the memory of the thousands of soldiers to whom it

pays tribute and commemorate their sacrifice on the

Chemin des Dames, the State, with support from the

Aisne Department Council, authorised the artist to create

a new work of art at the Dragon’s Cave.’ Adjacent to the

car park area are memorials to the 164th Division, the 4th Regiment of Zouaves for their bravery

at the Ferme de la Creute and another unusual tribute composed of nine modern wooden

sculptures set into the hillside overlooking the valley below.

Our next visit was to Vendresse British Cemetery and on the coach Rod gave an interesting talk

about the personalised inscriptions on the headstones. When we arrived at the cemetery it was

difficult for Derek to find a place to park and for members to safely get off the coach. However,

with flexibility and common sense we drove back to Soupir French Cemetery No.1.

In warm afternoon sunshine Noel talked about his great-uncle who was killed by shell fire at La

Cour de Soupir farm, about one-third of the way up the southern slopes of the Chemin des

Dames in September 1914. He read extracts from the Coldstream Guards war diary about the

incident when the section his uncle was a member of came under intense artillery fire. The

farmhouse was demolished and the men sheltered in a small cavern in the hillside which also

was hit by enemy shell fire and fatally wounded his great-uncle.

16

The change to our itinerary gave us the opportunity to visit Soupir Churchyard Cemetery. On the

14th September 1914 the Brigade of Guards cleared the village of Soupir of Germans and further

fighting continued at La Cour de Soupir farm, north-west of the village. There was a dressing

station at Le Château des Baudouin and at the farm.

The Germans re-took the village between the 2nd and 6th November 1914 and held it for most of

the war, close to the front line. There are 36 British casualties of which 6 are unidentified in the

churchyard. The church was open and on entering we were welcomed by some local villagers

who were arranging a small exhibition about the Soupir in the First World War. We watched a

very good power-point display about Soupir and the daily life of its inhabitants during the war.

Our friendly banter and broken French established a good relationship and we offered to lay a

Wessex Branch WFA wreath in the church. It became apparent that the villagers had a ‘cunning

plan’. We were led out of the church, across the road and up a steep pathway to the Communal

Cemetery where there are two CWGC plots containing 17

burials all dating from September-October 1914 brought in

from small burial sites near the north-west corner of the

village of Vailly. This is where the villagers preferred us to

lay the wreath. Noel laid the wreath at the Cross of Sacrifice,

followed by a short service of remembrance. The Château

mentioned earlier was demolished after the war and all that is

left of its 50-hectacres site is a section of a trifold archway

standing alone in a field. This delightful interlude was another

first for our branch and upheld our battlefield tour cultural

credentials.

We left the village at 1615 hours and with sufficient time available we drove into Reims along

the D967/N31 crossing a bridge over the Aisne at Fismes. The bridge was erected by the state of

Pennsylvania to commemorate the service of the American 28th Division who built a bridge at

the location during the First World War.

17

By 1700 hours we had parked behind Reims cathedral and

members had 1½ hours of free time to themselves to explore

the bustling city. The cathedral is built on the site of the 5th

century church where the Frankish King Clovis was baptised.

The church was destroyed by fire in the 13th century and the

building of the cathedral began at the beginning of the 14th

century. It is arguably one of the finest examples of French

Gothic architecture in France. Many of the original stained

glass windows were destroyed and a few have been replaced

by modern ones.

Marc Chagall (1887-1985) designed three windows for the axial chapel in 1974 and Imi

Knoebel born in 1940 likewise designed three more which were installed in 2015. Re-joining the

coach at 1825 hours it was a relatively short drive of twenty minutes to our hotel at Tinqueux

and a quiet relaxing evening following a memorable day.

Memorial Reims Cathedral

Having had a fulfilling Sunday morning breakfast we loaded our luggage onto the coach and

left Tinqueux at 0900 hours. A short break was taken at Rumaucourt on the A26 before crossing

the border into Belgium to complete our programmed itinerary and arrived at the town of

Veurne at 1235 hours. We visited the Vrij Vaderland – Free Fatherland – Experience Centre in

the City Hall situated on the Grote Markt. The exhibitions focus is not on battlefields but on a

small area of Belgium – the Belgian Sector – which was not occupied by the Germans in 1914.

Veurne became the unofficial capital of Belgium and the City Hall became the HQ of King

Albert I and his government from where they planned Belgium’s future conduct during the war.

Each room in the museum recounts the daily life of the citizens, soldiers, doctors, nurses and

refugees who lived and worked behind the front line Veurne. Using modern exhibition

techniques, scenography, conventional displays of photographs and maps the exhibition has a

calm atmospheric quality.

As the German army advanced into the Westhoek region the Belgian army stubbornly mounted

a brave and heroic defence at the River Yser. King Albert I gave instructions to implement the

plan of Karel Cogge for the Yser plain to be flooded on the 28th-29th October 1914 and brought

to a halt the German advance. A room is dedicated to Marie Curie and her daughter who came to

Veurne and set up an early X-ray machine and equipment to help the wounded and injured

soldiers. The story of Emile Ferfaille, a military officer who murdered his pregnant fiancée is

18

graphically described. He was found guilty of the offence and sentenced to death. An

executioner was brought in from Paris and on the 26th March 1918 he was publicly guillotined in

Veurne. Emile Ferfaille was the last man to be beheaded in Belgium. This was another excellent

exhibition and museum visit and afterwards members had free time to experience Belgian

hospitality.

The churches of Saint Walburgerkerk and Saint Niklaaskerk are two splendid examples of

Flemish architecture. The former can trace its origins back to a 10th century church, later

destroyed by Norsemen. In the 12th century the church was rebuilt in the Romanesque style but

was burnt down in the 13th. The building of the present church in the early Gothic style began in

the 14th century and was not fully completed until the 20th century. There are several 17th century

triptychs in the church and a number of large religious paintings. There is much to see in this

magnificent church including Flemish stalls and a beautiful pulpit depicts St John’s vision at

Patnos. Saint Niklaaskerk originates from the 12th century with a section in the early Gothic style

added in the 13th and 14th centuries. There are three naves dating to the 15th century which were

extended three hundred years later. The tower was restored in the 19th and in the mid-20th

century the vaulting and roof was refurbished. There are also a number of splendid paintings by

Flemish artists among them a 16th century triptych depicting the crucifixion by Jan van Amstel.

The Martyrdom of St Barbara by Louis de Deyster is another fine example from the 15th century.

The Stations of the Cross around the church in alabaster span date from the 14th to 18th centuries.

Just off the Grote Markt square is a tablet recording the presence in Veurne of Belgian forces

under King Albert I. Opposite is a Memorial to Karel Cogge (1855-1922) the supervisor of the

Polder Noord Watering Service in Veurne who planned the flooding of the Yser plain. Visitors

to Veurne would not be disappointed by the architecture and

historic places of interest in the town. There are a number of

cafés and restaurants around the Grote Markt, the latter

described by one member as a ‘mini Ypres’.

We left this lovely town at 1500 hours and drove to the ferry

terminal at Calais and boarded the P & O Ferry ‘Spirit of

Burgundy’ which sailed at 1715 hours. We disembarked at

1730 hours (UK time) and left Dover making a brief stop at

Fleet services where one of our members left us. Three others

alighted at Salisbury and continuing onward the coach

19

reached Pimperne at 2200 hours and from where the remaining members dispersed to their

homes.

The 14th Battlefield Tour was another first class tour with many unforgettable highlights and

experiences. Thanks must be extended to Derek our driver for his skilful and safe driving and to

Martin, Chris, Phil, Noel and Rod for their informative and knowledgeable talks. This

memorable battlefield tour and its success was made possible by the determination and

enthusiasm of Martin and Judy to whom all on this tour are very grateful and deserve our

unending thanks. Finally, for all those combatants of the First World War who in death are now

equal their sacrifice is not forgotten by the Wessex Branch WFA.

Roger .G. Coleman

Sources: Commonwealth War Graves Commission Web-Site ~ www.cwg.org

Wikipedia Web-Site ~ www.wikipedia.org

First World War Web-Site ~ www.webmatters.net

Before Endeavours Fade by Rose E.E. Combs MBE. Published by Battle of Britain International

Limited – Twelfth Edition. ISBN 1 870067 62 2

VCs of The First World War – 1914 by Gerald Gliddon. Published by Alan Sutton Limited

1994. ISBN 0 7509 0565 4

Museum & Exhibition Leaflets

Michelin Map Guide No.306 ~ Aisne, Ardennes & Marne

+++