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C O P ! 3
DED I C A T ED T O ! ! DEC EA S ED ! OT H ER ,
! R S . A N N A ! E L I A B OO! E R .
E n tered accord ing to A ct of C ongress on ! une 23d , 1 89 2 .
i ng . to have publ i shed a thorough scien t i fic t rea t i se on the art of barberi ng ,th is book has
been i ssued . We have endeavored to supply th is gre at demand by a work con ta i n ing several photograph ic cas ts i l l us t ra t ing al l the various posi t ions needed i n honi ng
,s t ropping , shaving and
ha i r cu t t i ng . The fol low i ng poi nts o f i n forma t ion are those which the au thor has wrough t ou tthrough a l ong l i fe of tedi ous , though successfu l pract ice and hard study . The author , as a thor ‘oughly accompl i shed man ipul ator i n every phase o f barbe ring , fearl ess ly offers th is work to theshrewdest cri t ic i sm of the most e ffic ient barbers i n the l and . He also guaran tees tha t the barberappren t ice wi l l find i ts e fficiency boundless ; a work i n which al l the fi ne r par ts of the trade a ret re ated i n de tai l .
! et the read i ng mat ter i s plain , simple , comprehen s ive , conc i se , to the po in t and exhaus t i ve .
I t i s furt her guaran teed the appren t ice tha t by procuri ng a copy o f thi s work , he wi l l be a ble to acqu i re h i s t rade a t a cos t i ncomparably smal l , both i n t ime and money . and be benefi ted i n an ines t imably grea ter degree th an he cou ld possi bl y o therwi se be
The s tuden t o f T H E S E C R ET O F BA R B E R I N G wil l al ways have an au then t i c reference
1IN order to meet the enormous pub l i c dem and and one wh ich becomes more and more press
near a t h and for consu l ta t ion u n t i l he becomes thoroughly profic ien t ; whereas , on the otherhand , the appren t ice withou t the aid o f T H E S E C R E T O F BA R B E R I N G i s obl iged to depend uponh i s ever - fad ing memory ; and to learn h i s t rade after al l by h is own efforts , s t ruggl in g th rough along series of u npard
-onable blunders . Trust i ng that th is work wi l l be of serv ice to my countrymen , I rema i n ,
Respect fu l ly yours,
B E N ! A ! I N WooDsO N B OO ! E R .
F ig l
IN TR ODU C TOR ! TAL ! O N B AR B E R IN G
ARBE RS‘poles have , accord i ng to custom , th ree colors , each of which has i ts mean i ng . Themorigi n of th is pole was as fol lows : I n anc ien t t imes or years remote from the presen t , whenthere were but few i f any surgeons prope r , the barber combi ned w i th his own profess ion , that
of surgeon or “ l eech .
! I n d iseases of al mos t every nature , the pa t i en t was bled ; so i n order to showwhere surge ry was pract iced
,the barber ’s pole came i n to use , a pole wi th t he colo rs , red ,
whi te andb l ue the red represen t ing the blood and predom ina t i ng over the other colors and giv ing not ice thata surgeon dwel t w i th i n . The whi te was to represen t the nerves , and the bl ue , to represen t the ve i ns .
T H E H A I R
S E NO WATE R on the ha i r excep t when real ly necessa ry , wh ich is on ly when one is undergoi ng the process of shampooing , or when cu tt i ng a pompadour . Wate r wi l l u tte rly ru i nmost heads of hai r , by remov ing the oi l secreted by the oi l glands , thus destroy ing the
natu ral gloss,and leav ing the hai r rough
,refractory and unatt ract ive . ! o reover , for the same reason
i t causes the h a i r to fal l ou t .There i s onl y the mo t i ve o f vani ty to impel one to use water on the hai r . Therefore my ad
mon i t ion i s to comb the ha i r d ry , t ra in ing i t the way i t sho uld go by frequen t combi ng and brush ing ,
G OOD WOR !
\Ve admi t tha t many a man i s doi ng fai rly good work i n barbe ring , but a be tter knowledgeof the various parts o f barbering , would qual ify h im to do mos t exce l len t work . There are p len tyof average men engaged i n the tonsorial p rofession , as i n a l l other k i nds o f busi ness , but what i Smos t needed are the excel l en t workmen .
G ive barbering you r undiv ided at ten t ion unt i l you master i t . Not unt i l then wou ld i t be advisabl e to study on any other l i ne o f though t . I t would be a great de triment to your own i nteres ti n reach ing the h ighest a t tainmen t i n barberi ng . One i s not so apt to cu t a subj ect when shaving i f
6
ra ! ors are kept sharp . When in good condi t ion they cu t the beard wel l ; when dul l they a re l ike lyto cu t the face .
U se your best razors a t' a l l t imes , on a l l c l asses of t rade , and have none other than good ones ;i t pays i n the end, at the beginni ng and a l l alm g . I t i s th e besr way to ad ver t i se. G ood toal s , in
good condi t i on , wel l man ipul a ted , are i ncen t ives to work of the hi ghest class , which stands alone ,and wins ou t over al l o ther forms of barbe ring .
P R E PAR ATOR ! WOR !
HOSE who star t out to acqu i re a knowl edge of the art of barberi ng ,should fi rs t have a pre
paratory course before e nte ri ng i n to the rea l work of barber i ng . The preparatory part ofthe work comes i n the form of shaving necks , combing and dressi ng the ha i r, la the ri ng an d
ba th ing faces and necks,and st ropping and hon i ng razors . The l ast two named requ ire a great dea l
of pract ice .
S T R O P P I N G A N D H ON I N G
N S T R OP P I N G ,_
u se an old razor that can not be u t i l i zed for shaving purposes , because a goodrazor would soon become worth less , as t he resu l t of too much heat produced by fr ic t io n fromconstan t pass i ng of the blade over th : s trop for the t ime n ecessary for one’s prac t ice . This ex
erc ise i n st ropping should be kept up at i n te rvals un t i l such sk i l l i s a t ta ined that in t urn i ng the razori t may be passed ove r the st rop wi th great veloci ty , wi thou t i nj u ring the st rop by cut t ing i t . T henwhen turn ing to the real work you may be able to apply the razor to the srrop accurate ly and decisively . I t i s wel l for me to state here the obj ec t of st ropp ing . The obj ect of st ropping i s to ge t thebenefi t of the temper the blade con ta ins , the greater port ion of which i s s tored up in the thi ckes tpart o f the blade , techn ical l y termed the back of the razor . Hence s tropping becomes necessary i norder to draw i t down to the edge , which i s done by the frict ion caused by stropping . Then
,when
razors are la id aside i n the best possible cond i t ion , and al lowed to remain for any reasonable t ime ,they wi l l not cu t wel l unt i l they are stropped agai n , for the s imple reason tha t the temper t ravels backto the th ickest part of the blade and leaves the thi n edge compa rat ive ly wi thou t temper . Thereforethe razor should nor be held too fl a t on the st rop bu t ti pped at a n angle o f abou t te n degrees i n orderto concen tra te the temper r ight a long the edge of the blade . Th is is the most e ssen t i a l poi n t i nst ropping
,that of hold ing the razor obl iquely upon the strop !See F ig . i ! , t urn i t upon i ts back ,
s tropping both s ides al ike !See Figs . 1 2 which represen t the two s trokes necessary i n st ropping .
The fi rs t s troke !See F ig . i ! , drawi ng the razor towards you upon the strop , the back of the razortowards y ou . No . 2 represen ts the second stroke sending i t from yon
,the back of the razor from you
a lways turn in g i t upon i ts back .
HON IN G
of hon ing . The exerc ises i n hon i ng , must be pract iced at i n te rvals , with an old razor , i n orderto become proficien t i n the man ipu l at ion o f the blade upon the hone , bo th to and fro ,
edge to andedge from
,as i s requi red in the actual pract ice of hon ing . This pract ice should be kept up unt i l one
i s fami l ia r wi th the movements so ve ry necessary in sh arpen i ng razors . \Vhen th is h as been aecom
p l ished , the tools that a re to be emp loyed i n actual serv ice may be ven tured upon . To hone razorswel l , the hone must neve r be held i n the ha nd or u pon any th ing that is unsteady , bu t must be uponsome th ing sol id
,that wi l l not give a particle
,so as to pu t an edge upon the bl ade evenly . I n tu rn
i ng the razor upon the hone . turn i t upon i ts back . Always apply i t even ly to the hone , boths ides of the razor , to and fro ,
hold i ng i t ! at on the hone , but do no t draw it squarel y towards youbu t i n a pos i t ion represen ted by F ig . 3, Fig . 4 represent i ng the st roke from you . Now i n begi n !
n ing to hone a razor,fi rst d iscover what i t n eeds . P oss i bly i t may ha ve n icks i n the edge . Ord i
nary hon ing would not do i n th i s case,bu t the n icks must fi rs t be taken ou t . They are not always
v isibl e to the naked eye ; so the safest way to be sure abou t these l i t t le bu t i mportan t ma tters , i s , tomoiste n the thumb or finger nai l by touch i ng i t to y our tongue and draw ing the edge of the razoracross the moi stened nai l . I f there are any de fects i n the bl ade , you wi l l ce rta i nly find them by resort ing to th is method . A great many barbers use the end o f the finger to test a razor
,even to te l l
when i t is sharp,but that i s a very u nsat i sfac tory way as the end of the finger i s not sol i d enough .
When the razor passes ove r i t,i t g ives way too much for one to ascerta in the d ifficu l ty . Therefore I
FOR THIS l i ne of thework , a spec ia l t rai n in g i s needed also , preparatory to mas ter ing the art
9
advise you to use the thumb or finger n ai l i n order to d iscover these de fec ts . These n icks a re takenout by stand ing the razor almost perpendicu la rly upon the hone and operat ing i t i n that posi t i on .
! ust where the n icks are should be the only part of the razor to come i n con tac t wi th the hone . I nth is way the n icks are removed i n much less t ime than by the ol d way of l ay i ng the bl ade ! at upo nthe hone
,and hon i ng an hour or more .
Now , as to hon i ng razors for serv ice , F igs . 3 and 4 represen t the two imp )rtan t posi t i ons i nhon ing , when the bone rests upon a table , bench or whateve r may be used . Figure 3 represen ts thefi rst stroke towards you . The razor has been tu rned upon i ts back
,and F ig . 4 now represents the
second stroke i n hon i ng . This i s to be kept up unt i l the razor i s perfectly sharp . From the begi nn i ngof th is exercise , mois ten the thumb or finger n a i l frequent ly and draw the edge of the razor across i tl i gh tl y . At fi rst i t may seem rough . bu t as you go farther on w i th the intel l i gence that F igs . 3 and 4a fford , you wi l l not ice th at the edge i s becoming smoothe r and that i t begins to adhere to the moi stened finger na i l . C a rry i t al l the way from the hee l to the poi nt , over the nai l , and you w i l l observethe edge as i t i s comi ng on and can te l l what part of the bl ade needs the most honi ng . As th is process i s kept up , the blade s t icks the t ighter to the nai l , wh ich is fi rm enough to te l l you when theedge i s sha rp , or n i cked or rough . So, when the razor adheres from hee l to poi n t , i t i s i n very fi necond i t ion , and i s techn ical ly ca l l ed a “ wel l honed razor . " I n Fig . 3, the edge i s drawn towardsyou , in Fi g . 4 the edge goes from you . I n th i s pos i t ion unusual care should be used as i t i s not ashandy to apply the razor to the hone i n th i s st roke as i n the s troke tha t appl ies i t to the hone i n Fi g3, consequen t ly the stroke shown in F ig. 4 , often goes i ts route w i thout cu tt i ng away a part ic le ofthe materi al of the s ide of the razor for which th i s s troke is i ntended
,and bu t one s ide i s honed and
I O
the razor i s condemned , when the fau l t i s i n the operator and not i n the implemen t . This i s the caseactua l hon i ng an d actua l stroppi ng are the essen ti a l features and are real l y i nd i spens ible i n goodshav ing .
Then when is a razor honed ! When i t st icks closel y to the moistened finger nai l . How thendo you strop a razor ! By t ippi ng i t a l i t tle occas ional ly when usi ng the str0p . !See Fi g. Th isfigure represents the stroke towards you i n wh ich case t he blade i s he ld i n a n ob l ique pos i t ion uponthe srop ,
no part touch ing the st rop bu t the edge i tse l f.
STR O P P IN G
OW,a fte r razors are honed , the next th ing i s the st ropping . The strops used are usual ly
th ree i n n umber,the ca nvas and two o ther finer or fini sh i ng strops . The canvas i s the
fi rs t to be used and a very brisk st ropping shou ld be given to al l fresh ly honed razors , uponth is strop . Fig . 2 represen ts the bri sk forward st roke
,u t i l i z i n g the whole st rop i n th is st roke . The
back o f the blade i s sen t front and i s j ust the reverse of the stroke represen ted by Fig . i . I nst ropping
,the razor is manipu la ted to the reverse o f i ts posi t i on i n honi ng ; the back o f the bl ade ,
comes to and the back goes from ; i n hon ing the edge of the bl ade comes to and the edge goes from .
S trops shou ld al ways be kept i n good orde r . C anvas s trops shou ld be loaded w i th beeswax . Takea bal l of beeswax and rub i t thoroughly upon th i s s t rop ,
fi l l i ng i ts pores and pol i sh i ng off with the
I I
back of a razor or any smooth art icle of meta l and i t i s ready for use . Occas ional ly apply latherw i th brush and scrape w ith back of shears . Other s trops should have o i l occas ional l y and a smal lamoun t o f beeswax . These finer strops should be cle aned qu i te ofte n and kept i n good order . Dur
i ng the opera t ion of shaving the process of s tropping shou ld be kept up,
“
for , as a general th ing ,barbers do not s trop the i r razors o ften enough . Then agai n ; one or two strokes are i nsu fficien t forra ! ors i n constan t serv ice .
I !
S H A VIN G
OW , having our st rops and razors i n good order , I cal l your a t te nt ion to the real work ,the
Shaving of the man i n the chai r . L ather the face fi rst and rub i t i n to the beard thoroughly ; then , with warm wate r, wash the beard , thus soften i ng the hai r and get t ing i t i n to good
cond i t ion : then lather the second t ime,and the Shav ing begins . Herei n i s the “secre t of barberi ng .
!
Atten t ion i s cal led to the n i ne figures, 5 to 1 3 i ncl usive wh ich represen t the fi rst n i ne importan t
pos i t ions in Shaving the fi rs t t ime ove r . I n t hese n i ne pos i t ions , the b lack upon the subj ec t ’s facerepresen ts the l a ther so i t may be pl a i nly seen j ust how far the barber may shave i n tha t posi t ion inwh ich lie i s working w i thout doi ng i nj ury to the subj ec t‘s face . Fig . 5 shows where the la ther hasbeen shaved off ; the face i s bare as i n any ord i nary case of shav ing . To shave farther than th is cu tshows , i n the pos i t ion i n wh ich the barber is stand ing , would not be w ise , so i n order to further thecause i n Shaving , Fig . 6 shows the next posit ion real l y necessary . Here i s one tha t shou ld teach agreat lesson , both inshav ing and i n the man ner the razor i s he ld i n the hand . The stroke i n th is cu tis backhanded
I wi l l say for you r conven ience here , that almost a l l the movements i n Shavi ng , are wr is
movements , and not whole arm movements ; so i n th i s backhanded shaving , l e t the arm be as s teadyas poss ibl e , bu t l e t the wris t move w i th u nusual ve loc i ty , and pract ice no long strokes , bu t ord inaryones . I n long stroke shaving the razor i s fed t oo fast , and cannot cu t wel l . I n cases where razorsdo , they are rare ones . I n the case wh ich Fig . 6 represents you w i l l n ot i ce that the barber has
shaved around to the m iddle of the chi n . Thi s 1 5 very essent i al , for i f i t be no t shaved fu l ly h alfway
,when coming around from the oppos i te side
,as is shown i n figure t o , one would be very ap t to
cu t the subject ’s face . Here is where the work mus t mee t evenly from both s ides o f the face . A nyo ther way would fa i l to accompl ish the des ired resul t . Shave w i th the gra in , or the way the beardgrows
,as much as possible . Th is i s the bes t way for shavi ng the fi rst t ime ofi
'
; but a fter that . for
close shaving . shave agains t and across the grain as the case sugges ts i tsel f for the safe ty and comfort of the pat ron .
F ig . 7 shows j ust how far down on the neck one shou ld shave and no far ther ; for i n n i ne tyn i ne cases out o f one hundred
,the beard run s down only j ust so far as 1 5 shown in F ig . 7 . Shav ing
down as is shown is necessary,fo r i t i s best to shave w i th the heard or w i th the grain the fi rs t t ime
ove r . Fig . 8 i s the fourth pos i t i on . I t i s the sa fest and best . I t cal l s for more t ime i n stepp ingaround the chai r than any other i n execut i ng th is par t o f the work
,tha t of shav ing up w i th the
beard as i t grows on the neck . I n reference to the th ird posi t ion,shou ld one shave al l the way
down the neck , the resul t wou ld be a very sore neck , badly broken ou t and covered w i th pimples . Soi t becomes necessa ry to resort
_to the a id of the fourth posi t ion . A l though many barbers haveadopted the overhand . u pward stroke as i s shown in Fig . I 7 ,
fourth pos i t i on i n close shavi ng, in
order to save the t ime i t requ ires to step around the chai r,bu t i t i s not a sa fe th ing to do . . Thi s
pos i t ion,Fig . I 7 , i s on ly a relat ive pos i t ion i n close shav i ng . Fig . 9 requ i res the face to be tu rned
toward you and the backhanded forward movemen t con t inued , an exact repe t i t ion of the hold ing ofthe razor as i s seen in F ig . 6
,and shows j ust how far one can execu te the work wh i le remain ing i n
1 4
posi t i on 5 The bl ack wh ich represen ts the l ather upon the face of the subj ect cont i nues to d imin ishand ou tl i nes the work i n the manner i n wh ich al l shav ing as a p rofessi on shou ld be done . So youmay observe from Fig . 1 0 , tha t the work has been ex te nded to the ch i n of the subj ect and is un i tedw i th the work al ready executed i n the fi rst four pos it ions , omi tt ing the oth . Observe
,during the
process of shav ing , i n a l l th e various posi t ions how the razor is he l d in the hand . I t i s necessary toknow th is and h igh ly necessary to pract ice i t unt i l i t i s perfected , i f barbering is to be vour avoca t ion .
F ig . 1 r shows just how far to shave down on the neck . I t i s the same i n ten t as Fi g . 7 , onlyon the opposi te s ide of the face and backhanded shaving j ust as far as the beard grows down the neck .
Fig . 1 2 d ispenses w i th the l ather save what l i t t le rema ins upon the uppe r l i p as i s shown i n Fig . 1 3.
Fig . 1 2 rep resents shaving upwards on the neck . This incl udes the fi rst n ine importan t posi t ions inshavi ng the fi rst t ime over . Fig . 1 0 has , i n some i nstances , a mi nor pos i t ion i n un i t i ng the work ofthe two sides of the face at the ch in i n shaving the fi rst t ime over . That posi t i on i s when the workhas been un i ted at the ch in . U nderneath i t shou ld be shaved by whatever posi t i on you may des i reor by ra is ing the ch in of the subject and us ing the hee l of the razor general ly . F ig . I 3 represen tsshavi ngthe uppe r l i p , backhanded strokes .
These n i ne posi t ions w i l l remove the heard of any one who has to be shaved and i n manycases are pe rfect ly sat i sfactory to h im who wan ts to be shaved only once over, but does not answerfor al l , so , having gi ven the facts upon the subj ec t of shaving for the fi rst t ime over , we shal l ca l l atten tion to our next which i ncludes close shaving .
x5
C L O S E S HAV IN G
Fi fteen of the best and most impor ta n t pos i t i ons i n close shaving are here descri bed . Immed i‘
a tely after the subj ect h as been shaved over the fi rst t ime,ri nse the face wel l w i th water in orde r to
clear awav al l the soap from the face , “ so that i t may not smart when the second ope ra t ion i n closeshavi ng beg i ns .
I n case of close shaving,have a piece o f al um i n the hand , moisten the hand and take hold of
the a l um . This preven ts the hands sl ipp ing . L ose as l i t t le t ime as poss i b l e after r ins ing the face»for the beard soon dries and becomes hard agai n .
I n order to avoid this,F ig . r4 shows the barber a t work upon the s ide o f the face that was
fi rs t sh aved . Th is i s a very importan t pos i t ion . Shave wh i le the heard i s soft , always carry i ng asmuch water as possib l e on the face during the en t i re process of close shav ing , or after the l ather hasbeen washed off. This wa ter keeps the razor from burn ing the face and causing i t to smart , as , i nsome cases
,happens even when the shavi ng was done i n some of the best shops and by
some of the best art i sts i n the land . Often t imes barbers se t a man 's face on fi re,comparat ive l y speak
i ng by l athering one s ide and ‘shaving i t and le avi ng the other side bare.then l athering the bare si de
and immediate ly sh aving i t . I n no case of th i s k i nd can one make t ime i n shav ing or give comfortto your patron , for beards cannot , as a general rule , be pu t i n condi t ion
’ i n so l i tt l e t ime as th i s proce ssof shaving requ i res , so i t i s best a t a l l t imes to la ther the whole face , unless one cal l s for a dry shave
r6
which i s done by so ften ing the beard w i th warm water and not us ing any lather a t a l l , con t in u i ng touse warm water through the whole process .
While shavi ng le t the razor b l ade l i e almost fl at o n the face . I t cu ts m uch be t te r , for i n mostcases or wi th a great many barbers
,the razor s tands up a t much too grea t an angle , poss i bl y fi fteen
degrees. I t seems reasonab le to say that i n such a posi t ion i t i s scrap i ng and not shavi ng .
Fig . 1 5 i s a re l at ive posi t i on to Fig . 1 4 , t i ghten i ng the sk in of the face as you w i l l observe fromleft hand of barber a t work i n th i s pos i t ion , t ighten ing the sk in of the face be ing ve ry essen ti al i n al lforms of shaving and one shou ld not become neglectful i n th is .
WATE R I N S HAV IN G
One importan t pract ice—a lways use as great an amoun t of wate r as i t i s possible to use comfortably . I n Fig . 1 5 the barber is sh avi ng upward unde r the chi n and on the neck and i n cases wher ebeards grow round i n a c i rcle under the chi n as beards often do
,a form of shavi ng cal led “ rol l ing the
fl esh " as seen i n Fig . 20 i s the bes t to adopt whe n work ing in pos i t i on 1 5 or any other posi t ion i nwh ich i t may be adopted . By thi s way of shav ing , the subj ect can be t reated w i thou t inj u ry .
Fig . 1 6 i l l ustrates shav i ng nearest side of face wi th backhanded strokes and wrist movement ,arm steady . Fig . 1 7 i s a re lative pos i t ion used often i n shaving the fi rst t ime over do i ng same work
1 7
as F ig 8 The posi t i on of th e le ft hand ,F ig . 1 8 shows spread ing the face , with the forward stroke of
the razor wh ich 1 5 held in a slant ing posi t io n . This s lan t ing posi t ion wh ich cove rs al l s tyl esOf sb aving
,can be used to advan tage more frequent ly than any other pos i t ion i n the e nt i re work . The
spread i ng of the sk i n and the slant ing of the razor when 1 11 serv 1ce are two very importan t factorsi n the execut ion of good shav ing Fig . 1 9 i s used onl y i n close sh av ingand i s an overh and , amb idexterous s troke and 1 5 the only stroke that can successful ly take away al l the beard from along the j awbone of the face , which gives com for t to so many who desi re close sh aving . This amb idexterouss troke i s the one i n wh ich the whole arm movemen t is brought i n to pl ay , and shou ld be pract iced agrea t dea l as i t i s very di fficul t to master , bu t can be mastered and w i l l become as easy as any others t roke 1 11 barber ing . I n th is pos i t ion one may pla i n ly see how the razor i s to be held 1 11 t he hand whenshavi ng
,the handle pass i ng be tween the l i t t l e finger and the one nex t to i t and be tween the thumb
and forefinger This 1 5 the correct way A gain 1 t may be : seen i n'Fig . 1 7 . Note the facts for they
are of untold value to h im who fol l ows barbering as an avocation . One may become weary of themany posi t i ons I give i n h igh class barberi ng , and the talk that becomes necessa ry to u n fold : to youthe Secre t of Barbering ; bu t never theless tha t
“does not det ract any th ing from the value ;
of .th is work .
So I shal l con t inue w ith the remain ing n ine posi t ions,the fi rs t ofwh ich i s F ig . 2 0 . This figure i s used
i n very close shavi ng and is cal led rol l i ng the ! esh .
! I n th is manner of man ipu la t i ng the face ,the heard i s forced ou t from i ts - cel l s and can be cut off withou t pai n , as close as i s possible to have i tcu t , and whe n plenty of water i s used , faces are kep t i n good condi t ion and the work . i s ge neral l y satis factory .
‘Some faces wi l l not s tand th is method of close shav ing s : ! ! ou may know th is by the ap
1 8
pearance of l i tt l e red blotches ,or whi te pimples a day or so after shaving . The fol lowing two F igs .
2 1 and 2 2 come under the head of very close shavi ng . This process is cal led “knead ing the face .
"
I n Fig . 2 1 in very close shavi ng the sk i n i s drawn out and over the four fi ngers which are underneath the folds of the sk i n “and ou t of v iew . These four fingers a re push i ng the sk in up andcrowding out the beard
,and the thumb , a l l of wh ich may be seen , i s d rawing the uppe r su rface to a
level so that the ra ! or may pass over and do the work for which th i s pos it ion cal l s . A great manymen can never fee l comfortable after shavi ng because t hey can , when shaved feel beard along underthe n eck as Fig . 2 1 shows and is above men t ioned . Fig . 2 1 is
“k nead ing the face ;
! so i s Fig . 2 2 .
There cannot be a vest ige of beard left upon the face or neck when one resorts to the method of closeshav ing as represented by Fig . 2 2 , a form of knead ing the face that stands by i tself al one in th iscase as represented by F ig . 2 2 . The thumb and forefinger spread the face or neck and the three fingers are underneath as the sk i n i s drawn
,work ing the beard ou t tha t i s too deep seated to be
caugh t any other way .
Fig . 23 i s the pos i t ion in shav ing the upper l ip , draw ing the razor toward you , Fig . 24, shav
ing the l ip a l so w i th backhanded st rokes , shaving from . Fig . 2 5 i n very close shavi ng shows tha tbu t very l i t t le of the razor bl ade can be seen for the reason that the thumb has been moved down theblade a lmost to the end of i t . No one knows bu t those who fol low th i s sty l e of shav i ng , the comforti t g ives to the subject be i ng shaved and w i th what grace and ease the bea rds can be amputated byhold ing the ra! or in th is manner . This manner of holding the razor is h ighly recommended and canbe adopted in many a posi t ion i n shaving . A l l work i n close shaving is usual ly against the gra i n or
1 9
across i t . Thissystem of close shav ing i s useful to persons who have shaved for many years , ra therthan be nefici a l . to younger: men,
and persons who know not the resul ts fromyears of steadysh av i ng.
I n rare cases and general ly w ith elderlymen , close shav ing may be carr ied down!
on theneck , shavingal so agai nst the gra i n or agai nst the bea rd or across the beard un t i l the neck i s perfectly cl ean of anyheard at al l , wi thout doi ng har,m bu t no t often 18 th is the case .
Fig . 26 ,i n close shaying
,i l lustra tes pi nch ing up the face . Tighten ing, ano ther formof
kneading the face , i s useful and should be pract iced . F ig . 2 7 i l lu s trates k neadi n g the face .
'
l h is
i s no t_
a longthe j awbone bu t under the neck , where menwho shave c lose l ike to have thi s part ofthe work done wel l . T he thumb i s undernea th in thi s case , pushing the heard but of the ce l ls, wh i lethe razor passes over it and se 1 ers, i t so deeply th at when the sk in i s re l axed there can no t be left apar t icl e
,o f beard . Fig . 28 comple tes the work . Here the barber shaves downward and not a vest“
ige of beard remains . These fi fteen posi t ions i nclude what i s called .rol l ing t li e ! esh
"“
and “knead ingthe face , ! both o f which g i 1 e comfort to your patrons and are soo th ing and re freshing . These fif»
teen pos i t ions are indeed the mos t beau t i fu l ones i n sh avi ng , to h im who has pa t ience towork themout . There should be pl en ty o f t ime al lowed 1 11 which to shave one
, iinless a ! u ick shave is des i redby, thel
pa tron or some o ther cause prevents the barber from t arry ing long w i th h i s custome r . P lentyof t ime i n most cases gives comfort and genera l sat isfac tionto the pa trons
. !
Therefore i t endearsthem , to your pl ace o f busmess ; whereas a great many leave a shop neve r to return because of sol i ttl e t ime given in shaving
. Hav ing sa id enough along the l i neof shavmg, andknownig.
that what facts the Secret.
of B arc om
20
be ri ng fa i l s to give , your own prac t ical expe rience wi l l impart , as these al ready given are the mostimportan t , we therefore concl ude shav 1ng and ca l l a t ten t ion to hair cu t t i ng .
H A IR C U T T ! N G
fi rst sty le i s represen ted by F ig . 29 . This and the remai n ing three figures—30
31 and 32—are h igh class soc ie ty work , and known as swel l - hai r cu t t i ng . The designs forswel l h a i r cu t t ing run as fol l ows : ! uarte r moon , hal f moon and ful l moon
,al l of which
represen t the moon’s phases .
F ig . 29 represen ts a quarte r moon in temple work as a swel l fin ish i n h igh class barbering andis very beaut iful and much pre ferred by many to any other styl e i n swel l ha i r cut t i ng . This cutextends on ly hal f way around the temple , o r about ha l f as far as 3o
’s work shows . Fig . 30 repre
sents a h al f moon in temple work as a swel l fin ish i n h igh class ba rbe ring and is very much to beadmi red as it i s becom ing i n many cases
,and most especia l ly for pe rsons who have ful l growth ove r
the temples , bu t can not be used in al l cases of ha i r cutt ing because , as before i n t imated , al l templeshave not a ful l enough growth of ha i r for the l ine of survey wh ich th is h al f moon is designed toshow . Square -c u t temple work and pointed temple work , o r any other sty le o f temple fin ish one may
2 !
adopt,does not belong i n the category of swel l ha i r - cutt ing and are no t rated as h igh cl ass soc iety
work,but decidedly in fe rior to i t . Therefore , Figs . 29 and 30 are th ’b most importan t of al l the
des igns in temple work .
“Fig . 31 shows a ful l moon cu t and is paramoun t to al l other sty les of cu tt ing the hai r
,and can be used to a great advan tage in any sty le o f hai r cutt ing , and should be
general l y adopted . I n the case o f a good ful l moon the hai r i s combed down over the forehead andcut off as much on one side as the o ther . The l ine of survey shou ld begin , say at the le ft h ightemple
,as the cut shows
,and extend down in a ci rcle to the eyes and across and upon the r ight h igh
temple i n just as even p roport ions as is poss ible for i t t o be . Then let the hai r be combed ou t o ftenand ends cu t where ir regu la r in orde r th at th is work , the ful l moon . may be t rue , ne i ther s ide le ftlonger than the other . I n th is way the hai r never bothers one by getti n g down in h is eyes and canbe parted in the middle or 0 11 e ither s ide w i th the best poss ible resu lts . I n these sty les o f ha i r cu tt ing I deem i t w ise to ment ion th is fact , tha t the ha i r must be al lowed to grow out ful l al l over thehead
,then when cut t ing the ha i r you may give the head the desi red shape as shown i n Fig . 32 .
This is a pu ff cut , fu l l moon , back and front , quarte r moon , temples . ! ou may be ab l e to sat isfy ina reasonable measure your trade w i th mechan ical ha i r cutt ing and with mechan ica l sh aving
,bu t they
w il l be muchi
bette r sati sfied w i th art i st ic h ai r cutt ing and ar t ist ic shav ing . There fore , be i tremembered that i n these sty les of swel l h a i r cutt ing , the hai r must not be cu t off too h igh up theback of the head , as the head then loses i ts shape , but must be l eft long so as to come ent i rel y downover the mole o f the head , the work al l be ing done at the base o f the head , and around the s ides ,never cutt in g the hai r close enough for the scalp to show through
,for where the sca lp i s shown that
k ind of work comes under the head of “ t igh t hai r cut t ing . Then we read i ly d iscover th at we have
L OFC .
two systems o f hai r cutt in g , n amely “t igh t ! hai r cutt ing,and long ha i r cu tt ing , of which the
des igns i n swel l society work as represented by cu ts or Figs . 29 , 30 , 31 , 32 gove rn them al l . ForFig . 32 there are other des igns for fin ish ing the neck wh ich are not here in i l l us t rated . They aremen tioned , as sty les for fin ishi ng the neck , i n the fol lowing order , round , wh ich means a ful lmoon , as you see in Fig . 32 ,
“ long branch,
! which i s shaving down the sides of the neck,and
“square , which is shapi ng the neck squarel y across . The cl ippers are usual l y used on the neck inthe case of sh aping the neck “ long branch st 1
’ le , i n o rde r that the l ine o f survey 0 11 e i ther sideshou ld be b rough t out even ly and wi thout ragged edges . And in al l cases of shaping the neck andtemples let the l ine of su rvey extend far enough in to the hai r , so that the des ired e ffect may beperfect ly clea r
, for wh ich th is l i ne is most avai l able .
Fig . 33 and the fol lowing Figs . 34, 35 and 36 are represent in g work of a h igh order i npompadour ha i r cutt i ng
,wh ich i n th is case is “ t ight ! hai r cutt ing . The cl ippers , o f what ever
length may be desi red,are used on the back and sides o f the head , as may be seen i n Fig . 35 , far up
0 11 the temples as al l cl ippe r work should be done , i n o rder tha t the work may be systemat ic and alsocorresponding with the t ightness of the cl ippers wh ich the head wi l l show , the cl ippers be ing thefi rst step taken i n th is sty le of hai r cut t ing ; the next is Fig . 33: the hai r shou ld be combed outthoroughly and cut off i n the shape of a ful l moon as seen 0 11 Fig . 31 . C u t far up , almost to theedge o f the scalp . Notice the l ine drawn across the forehead of Fig . 33. Al l the ha i r cut awaywould leave the forehead bare , i ts appearance then would be unbecoming , but nex t moisten the hai rt hat remains so as i t may s tand up wel l , and then take pos i t ion beh ind the chai r as seen i n Fig . 35 ,
and afte r hav ing combed i t al l up,beg in where the c l i ppers left off and work forward wi th the comb,
23
always combi ng toward you . C u t the hai r down about the lengt h you des ire the pompadou r andcomb i t down agai n
,and move forward to the fron t and begi n to comb up again , at the same t ime
sh ingle off the front , wh ich , when done just r i ght , makes a beaut i fu l oval sh aped pompadou r cu t , asseen i n Fig . 35 . Not square a t al l , but oval i n sh ape , which is proper . Then by jo in in g the cl ipperwork and th at o f the shears , as is shown by Fig 35 , i n th is case the barber is jo i n ing the work together , a very ted ious task and one that requ i res a great deal of at tent ion before the work is madesmooth .
Fig .
“
36 shows the barbe r tak ing obse rvat ions o f the way the hai r l ies ; i n look ing th is way thesl ightest defect can be pl ai n ly seen and taken out . Fig . 34 ,
the ba rber combs and brushes up thepompadour
,and h is work is fin ished
,as the workmansh ip is oval i n shape and un iform in sty le and
is the only shape for up - to - date pompadour hai r cutt ing,as shown in F ig . 34 .
TIGHT HA IR C U TTIN G .
The Secret o f Barberi ng wi l l now in troduce to you i ts l ast sty le of h ai r cutt ing which comesunder the form of
“ t igh t h ai r cut t ing and is known as a “crown cu t . ! Th is sty le is very su it ablefor boys , mil l men , factory men , coal m iners, ra i l road men or those engaged in an y work i n wh ichthe head gets d i rty very qu ick ly . With th is cu t the head can be kept clean w ith much less effortthan wi th any other style except ing the pompadour .
r4
Fig . 37 and Fig . 38“ show the work as it i s bei ng execu ted“u i crown hai r cu tt i ng . Fig
. 37
shows the foretop for boy s , the design i s a ful l moon . I n th is cu t you may not ice that the ha i r i scut shorte r fo r boys than for men ; for boys the ful l moon comes about half way down the forehead ,for men it shou ld come down to the eyes , or near i t , as shown in F ig . 31 . Fig . 38 shows that thepart icu lar and al l impo rt ant featu re i n t igh t " ha i r cutt ing is be ing executed
,that of j o in ing togethe r
perfectl y the work of the cl ippe rs and that of the shears .
! I S C E L L AN E O U S B AR B E R IN G .
Avo id . using rotten soaps on faces . The cause of soaps soften ing i n the mug , or rott ing , i sth at the general way of many workmen is to place a new cake of soap on top of one nearly used upm the mug . This lets the wate r i n under the whole business and i t w il l decay i n a few days—i f shopi s kept warm,
wil l sou r . This shou ld not be done bu t remnants of cake of soap should be taken onof mug and mug washed and dried , and the new cake beaten out , i f too smal l , so as to fi t the mug andplaced in pe rfectl y d ry and the r emnant 0 11 the top of i t . Al l the soap is used then
,none wasted and
always i n good condi t ion .
C lean towels , clean shop and clean sel f and pleasing atti tude are cri t ici sms t hat shou ld governi f success is ant ici pated .
When t rimming beards almost any sty le cl ippers can be used on the neck i n orde r to maketa nea t j ob .
2 5
C U R L ! N G T H E ! U S TAC HE .
The best way is to use t issue pape r and rol l the mustache around i t just as you wou ld wrap astring around a match . When t ight enough pl a i t the end of the pape r and let i t stand awh i le , i fcrimpers are preferred don’t h ave them too hot , that breaks the ha i rs off
Shampooing the head once eve ry week or oftener, has a great tendency to i ncrease dandruff,therefore absta in from so much S hampooing . I t takes away too much of th e n atu ral o i l o f the hai r .I n cases where i t becomes necessary to shampoo very often qu i te a dea l of o i l o r v asal ine should beused afte rwards . E gg S hampooing is the best . Break whole egg in to a cup or smal l bowl ; to th isadd a smal l amount of bay rum , a l i tt le witch - hazel and Florida water ; to th i s add enough shampoo so asto make a good l ather and bea t a l l together . Beat i t wel l , then saturate the hai r and scalp , thoroughlyrubbing the head w ith a rough brush used for that purpose , then ri nse . A dry shampoo is onegiven i n the chai r 'without putt ing the customer’s head und er the water spou t . Rinse the head wel lw i th towels un t i l al l i s clean
,j ust as he s i ts i n the barber chai r . There are many who do not l ike .
the water spout .Razors
‘
should not have thorough hon ing oftener than once a week ; i f they do not hold up wel lh ave the hone handy and in a moment’s t ime
,to and fro across the hone
,the edge w i l l come on per
fectly l After the face is l athered , in th is way the edge can be put properly on the razor before the1ather
_
dries, and‘by touch ing i t up as aforesa id one razor may be made to execute for one whole week.
the heav iestWorkapperta in ing to barbe ring .
26
C O N C L U S 'l O N .
Having given you the facts in h ai r cutt ing,shav ing , hon ing and stropping , as they came to
me during fi fteen years of arden t study and from practical experience, my obl at ions I now renderyou th rough the columns of th is l i tt le book . The Secret of Barber ing wi l l conclude with the fol lowing adv ice :
Who loves h i s t rade with al l h is hea rtHas learned one secret of the a rt ,
The ! ey i s here i n black and whiteThe ! ey that opes the door to l igh t ,The ! ey th at tu rns the lock o f fame :On her fai r t ablet wri te you r name .
! our wel lBOO ! E R .
P D 6 2 28
