LETTERS TO T H E EDITOR The Congo

Y NAME is John-Henry Staner; I am staying in the Belgian Congo

rrom seven years already, and as I am a nature lover and even that 1 have often hunted. I am always reading Africano wi th great pleasure.

As you know, the Belgian Government in the Congo hzs created some National Parks. game and forest reserves. They were very well kept before the emanci- pation of the Congolese in 1960.

In 1961. the Congolese soldiers did . hunt even in the Albert National Park

that is one of the most prolific and beautiful game reserves in the world. But now, they are destroying every Forest and game reserve of the Congo.

A t 30 miles of Bukavu, on the road leading to Walikale, Is a w ~ d e forest and game reserve that is called Kahusi. It is: unique In the world t o see gorillas. And, as you know, gorillas are in exrinc- tion.

There were also many elephants that could be hunted al ter having paid about 2.000 Belgian Fr. Now, the Congolese National Army (ANC) i s kllling every

. elephant and even sometimes gorillas, in the reserve.

Every rhree days-believe me-onc or two elephants are killed-but this rime by private hunters. 50 that the big game is in total extinction in the Kahusi Reserve, as well as in every game reserve in the Congo.

Belore, elephants could be seen many time-ven from the road. But now, the elephants and the gorillas are so rare that they can scarcely be seen.

Please do something to prevent the terrible massacres, to avoid the complete exelnction of elephan-and maybe gorillas--in the Kahusi game and forest reserve.

I think you for the help you wil l surely give l a the Kivu.

CONGO. JOHN-HENRY STANER

Little informotion is being received in East Africa concerning the fore of the Congogameporks, ond Mr. Stoner's letter-despite its deplorable news- i s very welcome.

It has been forworded by the East Afr~can W~ldlife Soc~ety to the International Union for rhe Canservotion of Nature, wrth the $vest that the ollegotions be in-

rfrgated urgently. Meanwhrlc, rr picture received from

Tom Frredrnmn, of New York's PIP agency. telis w h ~ is happening m the Congo Republic's neighbur . Angola. It shows one o f the Angoion rebels with the nmorns of o sloufhtercd bvffolo.

W E WELCOME-

Icrters of general ir~teress uhou~ Africa, its wildlife, irs his f ory, itspeoplr. Addre.~s then, please, to: AFRICA N A , B0.y 91110, N a i r a h i ,

Kenya.

Leopard WAS very pleased to see Mr. John

Nicholl*. Ietter-and your news item- concerning the alarming lashion trend for leopard skin roars,

Readers might be interested t o know of a new movement called "Beauty without Cruelty" that is concerned not only wi th the wearing of trapped fun. but also rbe cruel exploitation or animals for the msmetic trade, e.g. civet cat. musk deer and, indirectly, beaver and whales.

Tests are also a r r i e d out on rabbh ' eyes i n order te determine any harmful effects of chemlcals used in hair sprays, shampoos, etc.

Elire fashion shows are held from time to time and Boutiques are opening up in various parts c~ f the country. In each case. it is shewn that it is quite un- necessary for women to dress up in skins-even in cold tlirnatez-or smear animal excretions on their hair and faces.

For further information. please wri te to Lady Qowding, Oakgates. South- borough, Tunbridge Wells. Kent, England. There are other branches in

Australia, Canada. Japan, New Zeatand and USA.

(Miss) MARJORIE BUCHANAN CARDROSS. SCOTLAND.

HAVE been in Kenya lor eighteen months and at every opponun iq I

have availed myself of the wonderful Atitities to photograph and watch East Ahcan wild life in the nUWK!MUS game park , etc.; but as yet I haven't seen, o r photographed. leopard and would dearly love t o before I leave-which.unforru- nately. 3s i n the not-too-distant future.

Please could you advise me, which of the Kenya game reserves would give me the best chance of achieving my object? 1 realise that. in some ways. rhis is rather a difficult request, as the leopard is mainly nocturnal and retiring in its habits.

! thank you in anticipation and would like t o thank you also for the many hours of pleasure AFRICAHA has given me since it started. When E get home t o England I shall look (orward t o my copy every quarter: unfortunate that it is nor a monthly magazine.

T. A. C. BATTEN, C p l F RAF. EASTLEIGH, BFPO 10.

Old hmnds soy simply that there is no guorontee anywhere, but thm they recommend Seronero os offering the very best ehonces.

Although over 50 trapped leopard were rejeosed into Nairobi Nationul Pork in recent months, the Warden reports chot they are se!dorn see0 m daylight. But perhaps other photo- graphers have some tips for Serviceman Batten.

IContinrwd on page 3)

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Suggestion S AN AMERlCAN subject w i th a A great lore for East Africa. I was as

worried as anyone by the army distur- bances which took place earlier in the year.

A t the time, I was in the States and the reports which D read in our national newspapers suggested that the blaod was running t h ~ c k in the gutters.

I got back here a week after the muti- nies had been resolved and was flabber- gasted t o see just how exaggerated had been the news reporrs and just how oeaceful. deasant and sunny Nairobi looked on my return.

There is so l i t t le any of us can do to counteract bad Press, but might I suggest that every tourist and visitor to

thts country who has seen for himself just what a lovely and peaceful @ace this is. s i ts down and writes just one letter to a friend at home telling him,so?

It would only take five minutes-and a few cents-to wr i te such a letter. But w i th all the thousands who come here every month. it could produce a great flow of accurate information which would be 5 T immense help to the governmenu of East Africa and t o the tourist industry, upon whom the country's economy so much depends.

RAY R Y A N

Mount Kenya Safari Club,

Nanyuki, Kenya.

Brief points I W O U L D be interested in some old I coins of the East African area i f you have a publication on them. a r if some collector would care t o contact me.

C. R. KNIGHT, Jr. Box 638, Niland, California, USA.

An article on Eost Africun coins is plonned for the next issue of bfricana. but collectors mrghr cure t o contact Reader Knight direct.

AY I take this opportunity to ' congntu la~e you wi th this mag- azlne. I always look forward t o it.

Could there be some articles wr i t ten about the arts o f Kenya? Many thanks beforehand.

T. L. FCAASNOOT Amsterdam.

Certa~nly-and thank you for tellrng us whor you would like to find in Africana. In this issue, Reoder FFoosnoor will f indon oxt~cleon Kenya's music. ECENTLY. an ex-game warden

from Kenya gave me r copy of AFRICANA. which I thought was a most delightful magazlne and one which I would like te take regularly.

It made me nostalgfc. l lived in Kenya for some years.

B E T Y E PULLEN-URRY Widenham Park, Narat.

Th~ha~, mo'om, wns e.racf/y n9hur we intend~d for ALL wko've seen ERX! Africa.

Man? reud~rs find they can keep nostalgirnl~v in roucl~ with aversens frienrls, roo, bs sending them o 5 t h -

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1)l F + H I \

March, 1964 Number 9

Edirorinl and Adu~r~i.~ernenr O ~ ~ C P S : Ntttion Hotrse, Yirroria S I I ~ P ~ ~ , Bo.r 901 0, Nairobi. Kenyi~

Editor: CHARLES HA YES Emf African Wildlife Soriaty's Rcpresentutive:

ERIC RISLEY Associute fititor: TONY IRWIN

Aclver~isemenf ~Warruger: ALTHEA TEBBU7T North Ameriron Advertisenlent representdives:

1. 8. Powers, Inc., 551, SrJllt Avcnrre, New Ynrk 17, USA. re/: M~~rrny Hi11 2- 1935. Cahles: J A YBEPO CY

Circ~tlation Mnnugcr: FAUST PEREIRA

* THERE CAN BE no more sarisfying work than that a t the helm

of a growing magazine on Africa. In all its facets, this continent provides a glittering scene for portrayal in words and pictures.

But AFRICANA bas an extra pride-its association with members of the East African Wildlife Society throughout thc world. Here is the i ntercontincntal drive towards realism in conser- vation, the excitement of a battle against senseless destruction, the thrill af successful teaching.

The danger of extinction which surrounded Africa's wildlife still exists; but, in East Africa, leaders of the mainland countries have plcdged thcrnselves to defcnd this priceless heritage.

Tanganyika's President Nyerere, Uganda's Dr. Milton Obote and Ken ya3 Prime Minister, Mr. Jomo Kenyatta, have each associated themselves-as Patrons or the Society-with the fight to preserve wildlife from the tragic slaughter which threatened to destroy wit hour replacing.

They have invited the world to share with East Africans the magnificence and beauty of wildlife in these countries, to shake off the compiications of modern life and to feast for awhile on the sight of Nature's endowment.

But if-for you, at this moment-this cannot be, AFRTCANA will bring you the story of East Africa and will help you take part in wildlire conservation. wherever you may be.

Sincerely. CHARLES HAYES *

In this issue- POKC

Cover Picture: Eland by Bill W i l ~ n

Letters to thc Editor . . . . . . .. A . . . . . . . 1, 3 Mammals of Madagascar . . . . . . hv Ceci! WttI~b, C. M.Z.S. . . . . .. 6 B i d finding in Fmt Africa

I Y ~ John Williams . . . . .. - . . . .. 12 The elusive Walia lbcx

h.u Le.rlie Rrown . . . . . . .- .. . . . . 13 The new-look safari

hy Torty Irwin . . . . . . . - .. . . . . 17 The romance o l Mawi place names . . . . . . kv Lord C'lrtrrrE Hanrilwi . . - . . . 20 Kenya's National Parks

bx Eric Risle)] . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 Special supplement :

T ~ P Road to Mombaxn . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 . . . . Architect's hazards - - . . . . . . . . . . 29

The hisrory of Man . . . . . . . . . . . . GIIW nnli Bnrbwa Isaac 3 5 You can't compete with elephant

.. I)!? FUIIV Hitgl~cs . . .. -. . - .. . . 38 The mystery 06 Aksum

hv Clor1e.v Ha)w .. . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 Arrica's nlusical herimgc

S ! . L r ~ i ( l r l n S ~ . l ~ a .. . . . . . . . . . . . . 43 The Society's Notes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 East Afrtca'~ finest year . . . . . . . . 11y Det~is Mfltl~ews, 0. B. E. . . . . 48 Dramatic cofour . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51 * Prrhlislterl qrmr l~r ly 1 y Africatt L ~ c Publications Crd. ant[ printell b-v Eusr Afiiru~i Pri11rer.r Xmn.~# Lrd., Nairobi. lQ Africans, Nairobi.

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T H E A UTHO R - f n r r e ~ . l y C u r - ?or of Mrrmtnal.~ otid Birds irr rile

Londo~nrr Zoo. Superinre~~cfen~ of the Dlrhlin Zoo atrd tocia-v C~truror of R~p'~~li1e.v in Noirohi's Coryndan M~r.~eur~-has ~.rperierzc~ of Madn- Rn,rmr dnring hach- rc, 1929.

A t rhat lime, he ~VCIS n t? i~inhpr of an Anglo- Atnericun z~nlogicu/ P X ~ P -

dition /r7nking a rollerrion cf lily I

tnumn~nls ond wa1erf011-I.

A~aiaj,~, in 1 933. Mr. Wchh c~olJ~r.t~d var~tfbwl ancl r ~ p t i l ~ s in Mndngc~sc~r; hut. on a fhird e,~ploratinn itr 1939. IFP found Irinrs~lf wor?imr ri~.il captil*~ of rlrp Frencf~ rulrrs-stranded in o hosrile cormtry, with alt~rosr no monry.

L n s ~ jor 2f yenr.r EU r l r ~ oursjd~ wlorld, M r . Wchh sei:~d a srrzirfrre opporr~mily re srtfdy rcmoiP Ma&- gaaFrar . . . nnd fu prespnt collrrrion.~ ro the Lo~rdoit Nnfurnl Hr:F/or.v Mtrsrurn ~rhrtr he MOCIS -rjlraJ[v Jrced. it1 1945.

His hook cover iw this period is ~!ll i l l~>d " A W n ~ r c f ~ r ~ r jtr rlrp M find".

T HE NATURAL HISTORY of the great island o f Madagascar has been kept dark, so to speak, as Tar as t l ~ c

English-reading public is concerned. Even today, (here is no popular illustrated book, in English, on the uniquc bird life of Madn- gascar, nor for that matter on i t s equally strangc mammals-a situation that has no paraIlcl anywhere else in thc world.

TI lc pcriod I spent in enforced captivity in Madagascar save me an opportul~ity to exptore remote, inaccessible regions and to make systema~ic coIlections ob the Icsser- known smalt nocturnal mammals for the Natural History Museum. London.

Thc net result was an unqualified success. Indeed. lack o f funds was an advantage, sincc 1 was not tied to transport. roads end sucl~ comforts as a tent. I t enabled me to walk to the remotest areas. through t l ~ e extrcrncly hilly, forested country of the east. sleeping always in native hamlets, in favour- able cotlecti~~g pounds and living almost wholly on rice.

The process was continued throughou~ the wcst. sou th-wesr and south-the latter region containing Madagascar's most primitive tribes. Ncvcr did 1 have a companion, interflreter or guide. or permanent porters.

The laucr were hired from villngc to village. For two-and-a-haIf years. I was lost to the outside world and even to friends in Mada- gascar. Altogether, 1 staycd done in the remote villages and hamlets of eight different tribes and many sub-tribcs.

From 1942 onwards. life was not w ~ t h o u t its excitcments. But this is not all adventure story. I mention 2111 this n~erely to explain how I became familiar with the wildlife .of 1 Madagascar.

Owing to i ts mountainous nature and great size (nearly 1.000 miles by 300 miles) and also to its languages and transport problems, this country can be rather be- wildering to the new arrival.

There arc more or less three distinct zones of vcge~ation : FIRST. the cvcrgreen rain forests, which exkcrid along the eastern dopes for tl-te _greater length of the island, Much of this is now second-growth, or has been divested of its big timber. SECONDLY, the western deciduous forcsts, which extend from the far north to the south- west. These have suffered much from fire owing to the arid conditions prevailing from May to November and are consequently vcry patchy at the present time. THIRDLY, tlie sub-desert scrub o f the south and soutli-west, This region is subject to prolonged drourhts, but has a wealth or endemic vegetation-some of it bizarre in the extreme-whicfi has adapted itself to these conditions.

It is here that the Giant Aepyarnis Formerly roamed. This was a fli_ghtlcss bird-bigger atid much more massive than our ostrich. Fragments of its eggs ate not uncommon and. occasionally, nil entire specimen is unearthed.

The contents of one 18 Ib. egg 1 handled 1% rrc probably fossilized, but i t s shell was w~rhout a blemish.

The central higliland region, like the east, ir vcry hiIly but has been denuded almost entirely of its indigenous forest.

Today, one sees only introduccd eucalyptus and mimosa trees. The area was formerly inhabited by some queer creatures which are known now only by their sub-fossil remains, of which perhaps the most remark- able were thc @ant Icmurs.

The existing lemurs cover a wide range of forms and species and arc the most con- spicuous of Madagascar" wildlife. The true lemurs (belonging to the genus lemur) are nlt diurnal and take the place of our monkeys. AIE have long muzzles, giving tlre head a rather fox-like appearance.

The best known outside o f Madagascar is prohabl y thc prctty Ring-Tailed Lemur (L . corm). from he dry south-west, which has been smuggled out more than any other species Tor sale to zoos and as private pets.

Thc largest of the true lemurs is the Ruffed Lcrnur (L. variegalrr.~) rrom the eastern n~inrorcsts. I t is an impressive animal, normally black and white, but there Is a rufous phase. Tile call of a single animal sounds like a dog-fight and reverberates through the Forest in an alarming fashion.

One of the most interesting of this g n u s i s thc Black Lemur (L. tnai-am) which is t h e only one in which the sexes differ in colour- and !his markedly so. The male is entirely black, with yellowisl~ eyes. whereas the female is reddish-brown, with white ear- tufts and a yellowish-white tail.

They look lovely in their naturat home of evergreen trees which are often studded with the long racemes of white waxy flowers of the Angraecum and other epiphytic orchids which abound in Madagascar.

Most of the true lemurs are known to zoos all over the world, but there are others which are practically unknown outside their homc country. This applies particularly to the family inririiclap.

These are largish animals whiclr all pro- press in an upright position when on the ground. in a somewhat similar manner to the Gibbon Monkcys OF Asia.

They are mainly leaf-eating, but also TIIP s p r t ~ f ~ f ( v Rirrr-Trrrlerl Lr~nrtr E.\, fiienrl(v, ot- consume bark, flowers and herrics. The best !mr.fivr ( r n r l 1il.r.v in MmIfgascar'~ dry snrrflr-

wr.t!ethn urn. ( A picfrrrr /),v Dm klrrrfktt.) known are the Sifakas. o f which there arc two species. They have Tong tails and are mainly white with black faces. the trunk of a tree quite ncar the ground and

"freeze". 'erreaux's Sifnkn* which prefers d~ TIlus they remain motionless the

conditions, is found Shrou~hout the western :-,-~.,_-_-___ -E on or got too near i n making tion. forests and in the south wl~erevcr there is ~ L ~ l ~ ~ ~ ~ rnTG:

J tall scrub-often many milts from water. I n this latter area they seem to favour Then they off% leaping localities where the extraordinary DEdieria to trunk rather than into the thick bus]l predominates. N~~~ the winter nights branches which would hinder their mode of are cold and. in the early morning. one may PrOgrCSS. see a whole troop of sifakas, sitting with Thc last member or this family-the hands on knees, facing the sun to warm their lndris (Indri indri)--is perhaps the one of

J bellies. the greatest aterest. It is diurnal, is the largest - of dl the lemurs, is practically tailless Gd,

One ' had as a pet was most and like the rest of the family, waIks i n an u p lovcd tile bark of eucalyptus trees. The lcask right position. known of this family is i he Woolly Lemur ( A arrl,i lu,tirer, which is also long-tailed I t is confined to certain parts of the eastern but cntircly nocturllal its fur is short and Torests and is certainly uncommon. I often

vcsy thick, the hair; being reddish with !lewd its distant wailing cries as 1 strotled along some forest footpath, but rarcty of 3 close-UD view.

4 I C. Practically nothing is known about this A~~~~ thk ~ ~ t ~ i ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ k ~ tribe, many are

very rare animal. During all the time I spent tile lerends the Indtis and its , in various parts of the eastern forests. I came is taboo. I rs local name is hahacnraA

across it only 011 a few occasions and cnch father the time a pair was sleeping in thick undergrowth One is this animal is of on the forest floor.

\I, { I vhf? p l ~ f i r ( ~ y ~ (1p11v(I ( t k <I I ~ 1 1 1 1 \ ' S1j11hn origin-an unfaithful woman (and her child)

,,! rl tCI,U ,,-,,, nlllll,( lp-j When disturbed these strange animals having bcen clianged into an animal (now t l r ~ S I I I ~ . run upright a short distance. thcn cling to the IndrTs) as punishment.

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MADAGASCAR

MAMMALS (Cn~trinued.frorn page 7$

It is firmly believed that the hnbncnto practises midwifery and that when a mother is about to give birth, the relatives galllet round and massage her with certain leaves.

When the baby is born it is put through a test to see if it will be a lucky baby, or otherwise-a ritual, practised until recently by the tribes themselves.

Belonging to another family is the strange creature known as the Aye-Aye (Daubenronin n~adawscariensis).

When first discovered, its relationship to the Lemurs was not suspected, for it possesses rather rodent-like teeth, large round naked ears, strange claws and a bushy tail. In fact the Aye-Aye is an exceIIent example of an animal that has become so modified in form to meet its specialised feeding habits that it has little superficial resemblance to the other members af the sub-order to which i t belongs.

, The Aye-Aye lives largely on the wood- boring larvae of the Rh~noceros Beetle and i t would seem that its modifications have been evoIved in connection with the pursuit of this relished food. Its large enrs are a g e a t asset in detecting the acrivities of the larvae; the strong hind cIaws enable the animal ta cling to the tree or stump; and the rodent-like teeth act as chisels to tear away the wood until the larva can be reached. Here the most astonishing modification comes into play. The middle finger is thin and wiry, exceedingly mobile and is furnished with a sharp claw. This is thrust into the hole and the larva withdrawn.

Being noctural it i s rarely seen, but owing to its strange appearance the natives live in dread o f it and treat i t with even greater respect than the Indris. If caught accidentally in a lemur trap, a special ritual takes place before it is released, orhenvise all sorts of misfortunes will bedevil the trapper and his family.

On my first expedition to Madagascar 1 collected two true pairs of Aye-Aye, one of which had a baby. The trio went to the Jardin des Plantes, Paris, and the other pair to the London Zoo. Dusin? the long voyage I was abk to study some of rhcir peculiar ways. In captivity, besides larvae they like sugar cane, nuts, raw egg and banana. The egg is dealt with in an interesting manner: it is held upright, a hole is bitten in thc top and i t is then held close to the mouth with one hand, while the middle finger of the other hand is used like a mechanics I scoop working at high speed. 1n effect. the finger is flicked from the egg to the mouth and back in rapid succession until [be shell is empty, and not a drop is spilled. The same technique is employed when eating a ripe banana.

As far as I know, no other Aye-Ayes havc since bee11 taken out of Madagascar.

It i s quite a contrast to go from the coolness of the eastern rain forests lo the heat of wcstern deciduous foresw. The journey tinder war-lime conditions took a fortnight and was quite an adventure. T finished up in a small area of primitive forest situated between the Tsiribillinrt and Morondava rivers. This is a mere remnant of a forest that formerly extended fifty miles-khc whole

one of Mnd~fascw's nrost r~n~nrlinble--htrr litrk-kno~rn-rrnr~nals, the Adye-Aye. Alrhorrgh natrrrolrsrs Ftuir frftred it fares ~.v.rrinctiori. .V r . Wrhb heIIev~.v if .vtit/ S U ~ L ~ ~ I ' P Y in areas rIi/tirrt/t of rirre.rs. ii.hn.e tror~r~mol hrrhits cnr~r~rtt its prrsetlce.

area between the two rivers. For six months of the year-during the dry scason-tlie trees ate mostly bare and, being at coast level, it can be extremely hot. It is not surprising under these conditions that all its mamrnats, excepting Verreaux's Sifaka, are nocturnal and live in holes-eiiher in the ground or in trees--during the daytime. I t was here that I rediscovered the curious Madagascar Giant Rat (Hypogeotnys) which had not been collected since 1875 and was tlmught to be extinct.

There are four little-known nocturnaI lemurs in this forest, three of which are quite common. These three all live in the baobab trees ( A dnnsonia granditlieri) wl? ich p o w ro an enormous size and providc the only shelter. The fourth-a mouse lemur (Ch~iro~ale nmjor)- is harder to find as i t can squeeze into the crevices and holes of smaller trees. One of the most curious is the Fa t-tailed Lemur (Cfreirogaleus n?pdilcs sanmli), whose tail is a reservoir of fat at its base, mcasurilig often one and a half inches across, which looks strange on an animal with a head and body length of only seven inches.

Another unusual lemur is the Forked Lemur (Plraner~furc[ferJ which can be readily disringuished from the other 11octurnnI lemurs by its long thin tail aiid by a black stripe which runs along the spine to the top of the head then forks into two eye-stripes. It makcs its presence known an night by its loud piercing cries.

The fourth-the so-called Weasel Lemur (Lepilemur mttsrelinlrsl-is larger but still smaller than the Irue diurnal lemurs. Its plain fur is reddish-grey. brown on rhe head and reddish tail. It has large. naked ears and no upper incisors. 1 kept all four species in captivity for a wllilc and then liberated them. All were delightful creatures and it is n pity so little is known ahout them. The Weasel Lemur was much less nocturnal than the others. Another Weascl Lemur (L. leurnpus) is very pale in colour and is round only in the extreme sout l~ where there are scrub-forests. I t is somewhat rare and localised. 1 fouild it only where the vegetation -normally stunted and sparse-was more luxuriant. This was alo~lg dry watercourses where the subtcmnean water supply was evidently near the surface. Here an ever-

green wee with a nut-like fruit is not un- common and in it there is nearly always a hole or two. One morning during a walk along the dried-up bed of a narrow stream. I saw five of these Ruffy creatures peeping out of different holes in trees rarely more than ten fect from the ground. Their cutios~ty is extraordinary. Some o f them merely showed their faces but others came right nut of their 11 id ing places and remained stationary. I stroked one with a stick, but this did not cause it to move. This area was uninhabited- hence their lack of fear of man.

The most localised OF all the lemurs is one that is confined to the reed-beds of Lake Alaatra. This is one of t l ~ e Gentle Lemurs (Hapal~?ntlr) and is known as the Reed Lemur (11. sinaus).

Its food consists almost entirely of the common cane-li ke reed IPl~ragmifes). This is felled by gnawing through t l ~ c stem at its base. The lemur the11 grasps the cane with its IWO hands and tears off klic outer hard covering with its tcerh in order to get at t h e juicy core.

Having adapted themselves to life in dcnse reed-beds. where their food is always at hand and where they are safe from natural enemies, Reed Lemurs are sluggish in their movements and are unable ro progress quickly if placed on the ground. They have pretty, rounded faces, in captivity become very docile and make excellent pets.

Lakc Alaotra is 25 miles long and is hardly more than a vast swamp at the height of the dry season. Round the edges, i t is fringed with reeds, water-lilies and the introduced water-hyacinth. It is a paradise for water-birds and nowhere have I seen such numbers of Pigmy Geese and Hottentot Teal. Two local species are not uncommon, namely Meller's Duck and the Madagascar White-eye. Allen's Porphyrio or GalEinule- a raihcr elusive bird i n Africa-abounds in the reed-beds, also the quaint Cuvier's Rail (L)ryolimnns r e ~ v f ~ r i ) a local species, heavily built, with shor~isli legs.

Besides masses of introduced carp the lake contaii~s a delicious indigenous fish- paratilnpia-which is very similar to our Tilapia. It also has its own crocodile- Crucndilrts mb~istus-which has a much broader head than C. nilotic~is inhabiting the western rivers.

This remarkable island has developed a unique fauna and flora and I look fonvard to my next visit.

(,O/./ ,1 1 i1 111.1:O \ t j t , , ~ , r r . 't, r!,, . r r r r l ~ i r { ~ r r t . .~rrrtll 111 1 . H~IIIL,I~,, I . l i t , I ~ ( . L I , I : -/ft~rt,lr('(l cl t~l-k , m tin. r 1p11r r ~ l rh<, i:~,,<~i.

John WirIiams writes on

BIRD FINDING IN EAST AFRICA 0 PRESENT some idea of the wealrh and variety of our birds I should likc to quote two facts. In the relarivcly country of Kenya, there are no less

than 1.032 Cull s p i e s of birds, And in thc forty square miles of Nairobi's

National Park-not by any means nn fi outstanding bird locali~y by East African

standards-more kinds of birds have been rccordcd than have been notcd in [he entire British Isles.

The keynotes of East African birdlire are abundance and accessibility. Many of our most outstanding bird haunts-for example the famous flamingo lakc at Nakuru; the papyrus beds and lagoons of Lake Naivasha, the great vulture colonies on the clilFs o f Hell% Gate; tlrat extension of the great Congo forest, Bwnrnba. rn western Uranda; and the Manynra salt lake in northcm Tanganyika-are all within short motoring distance of up-to-date modern ho~cls.

dfriran Gr~nf-rrrsrrrl Grebe incrrhntittp..

q Tire Afrirr~n rum d fe r .~ frot?t flrc E-ttroprrtn bird in Iackinf xfre pokr stripr- mholso rlrr eye. (P/~ato: C. Hnn~trrr)

As a Danish visitor remarked to me roxnt lv : "In Kenya you can certainly do your birdwatching in comfort".

But for the adventurous there are still many wild places remaining in our country- regions which to this day are almost or completely zoologically unknown. There's a challenge to you.

Before enumerating thc birds to be dealt wit11 in this opening article, may I wish you good birding (as our American friends put it] and say it wilt be a pleasure to meet you when you visit East Africa. And so to birds: Ostrich. Two very distinct races of ostrich occur in East Africa: the Somali Ostrich, in which the male has a blue-grey neck and thighs; and the Masai Ostrich. whose male has a red neck and thighs.

The former may be seen anywhere north of lsiolo in the Northern Frontier district and is numerous in the Samburu Game Reserve.

The Masai Ostrich is common in the Nairobi National Park and on the Serengeti Plains of northern Tanganyika. African Great-crested Grebe, This is a very local bird but is numerous on Lake Naivasha in the Rift Valley, 50 miks from Nairobi. White Pelican and Pink-backed Pelican. Bozlr species may be seen on Lake Naivasha and on Lake Nakuru.

The main breeding ground of the White Pclican is Lake Rukw~l i n southern Tanga- nyika.

Pin k-backed Pelicans nest usual1 y in trees and many brecd in she great water-bird colony near Kisumu, western Kenya: others in acacia trccs which Ilave been flooded at the north-western end of Lake Naivasha; and, in some years, a few among the great heron colony on the Tana River inland from Garsen. Aammerkop. This remarkable bird is wide- spread on all inland waters. I t may be seen on dams and along the Athi Rivet in the Nairobi National Park, and is vcry common and tame along the Kazinga Channel in the Queen Elizabeth Park, Uganda.

Several nests may be seen in trees along the channel. Whale-headed Stork. The best IocaIity for this spccies is on one of the arms OF Lake Kyoga i n Uganda. To reach this area proceed on the main road from Kampala to Masindi, turning eastwards at Nakaso- ngola, 133 miles from Kampala; mntinue to the fishing village of Esima at the edge of the lake. where open channels, lagoons and vast papyrus swamps exist.

It is possible to hire a dug-out canoe here and an Arrican guide who will take you out.

1 have never failed to see Whale-headed Storks in this locality-a paradise of water- birds including Pygmy Geese, Lonflaed Lapwings, African and Lesser Jacanas and a host of other interesting species.

The Whale-headed Stork may also be seen, sometimes. in tlre papyrus swamp which extends from the cnd of Enlcbbe airport runway, and where a catwalk built above the papyrus offers a good vantage point: i t may at times be observed aIso in the Queen Elizabeth and Murchison Falls Parks. but i ts appearances there are uncertain. Herons and Egrets. The Black-headed Heron is an abundant and widespread spccics and may be encountered almost anywhere, often far from water.

A nesting colony exists in thc railway goods yard at Nairobi station and the bird is plentiful in the Nairobi Park.

The Grey Heron is much less common but can usually bc seen in lakes in the Rift Valley of Kenya, especially Naivasha. Nakuru and the southern end of Lakc Magadi.

I and a special oflev 1 0 N THE OCCASION of last year's

Wildlife conference, held in Nairobi under the auspiceq of the International

Union for the Conservation of Nature. many delegates ewpr~ssed wonderment at the rbund- ance and ~sriety of East African birdlife.

Their opinion was that, during the present decade, as many visitor< to the three East African territories would be attmcted here by birds as those who mme to see our heritage of biz game.

Anq+one who doubts this a~wrtion should see my global postbag with it% constant stream of enauiries rwasdin~ Africa's birds,

be many more of these ntlvel pscbgc tours, as well as an increase in thc numkrs o f those bird-watching tourist< who are less grwrious in their I~abits.

$hi? tourist potential has created a demand for more and better information about our birds, cspcialty as to where various species may he fot~nd.

To meet this demand the Editor of AFRI- CANA has asked me to contribute a series of articles tell in^ ornithologically-minded visitors where they are mo7t likely to find some of our morp intcrrling spccies.

.. - The cult of bird-watching is becaming more It is my intention Ito deal with about a d o m

and more popular as ,he complete rplaxaZion w c i e s in a c h article and t h ~ e will a p w r from vrhaps way in the systematic order. I t crccurs to me that ,,, there are an etin,atpd thrn million there will he some readers who have airearly

hi&watches~, the tlohhy i< equally popular plannd h i r d i n ~ tfiv to fist Africa and w i l l

i n E ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ , and the Scandinavisn n i sh to have information cnncernin~ prtirular

roantrics. hirds not covered in the first series of articles.

Already we have seen the errirtll in Kenya I invite such to submit their queries to "The of the fimt organiscd hird-watching tours- Bird Enquir! Service", c/o The Editor, Afrirana, from Amedca. Denmark and Sweden. 1 P.O. Box 9010, Nairobi. Kenya. East Africa. predict lhat in the immediate future there will rvhcn I shall hc happy tu answer their questions.

The Goliath Heron is local, but not uncommon on Lake Naivasha and along the Kazinga Channel in the Queen Elizabeth Park. There is a breeding colony ol about 30 pairs on Gibraltar Island, in Lake Baringo, where the birds are tame.

The three egrets, Great White, Yellow- billed and Little have wide distributions; all three may be seen together in the swamps at Amboseli Game Reserve in southern Kenya. This is atso about the best Iocality in East Africa for finding a rare m i g a n t from Madagascar, the Madagascar Squacco Heron.

The Black Heron is very scarce in Kenya and Uganda, but is more plentiful on lakes in Tanganyika; it is often to be seen on Lake Manyara in the northern part OF that country. and also occurs in coastal areas including Dar es Salaam.

The Purple Heron can nearly always be found on Ldke Naivasha and numbers

breed in the heron and cormorant colonics on Lake Baringo.

The Cattle Egret or Buff-backed Heron is distributed throughout East Africa; it can always be seen at Lake Naivasha.

The Squacco Heron also is found on Lake Naivasha and occurs at Amboseli and elsewhere in the vicinity of inland lakes, channels and swamps.

The Green-backed Heron frequents slowly running waterways such as the Athi River in tile Nairobi National Park, the Kazinga Channel in the Quecn EBizabeth Park, Uganda, and along (Ire Tana River.

t t is also quite common in mangrove swamps along the coast; one specially-good Jocality is Mida Creek. south of Malindi.

The Rufous-kllicd Heron is an uncommon bird in East Africa, but I have observed it several times among the papyrus beds near Entebbe, Uganda. The N ~ h t Heron is found on Lake Naivasha. but i s easy to overlook except at dusk whcn the birds set off for their feeding grounds.

The White-backed Night Heron is a much rarer bird. Tn Kenya I have seen it on the Tana River, dow~~strcnrn from Garissa, and at Lake Jipe near Taveta. I t is perhaps most plentiful in the mangrove swamps on Pemba Island. north of Zanzibar. and is sometirncs seen near Tanga on the northern Tanganyika coast.

Like i ts commoner relative. it is mainly nocturnal in its habits.

Lake Naivasha in Kcnyn and Lake Kyoga in Uganda are good localities for the Little Bittern-both the resident African race and the m i g a n t Ellropeail bird-but i t is a skulker, dificult to flush from its retreats in teed and papyrus beds.

The Dwarf Bittern is another skulker and although widespread, is equally difficult to locate. About the best locality that I know for this elusive bird is the fresh-water swamps at the northern end or Lake Natron. South of Lake Magadi. an the Kenya- Tanganyika border.

li'Hl7-I: I'LL/( '/I,\' ( / I - ( , j ( ~ /)!iwl\ (11 h ir~l! . i1.i

itPjm. D. I.. l ' ~ ~ s ~ ~ ~ - F i r : ~ c r m M _ F pr<,/rrl.rp .vl~.lrm\is. ( M O R E NEXT ISSUE)

With a whole world of choice in the cigarettes they can buy, men who are men of the world choose Viceroy-for the taste that's right!

@@ Vicerov - - the international American cigarette %iff!&

In Ethimia. Leslie Brown sowht

- and .found

THE ELUSIVE

WALIA IBEX

T ME WALIA IBEX (Capr.~ ~ u l i e ) is the most southerly of all the wild goats.

They l ive only in the Semien mountain5 of North-west Ethiopia-separatd from their nearest relatives, the Nubian Ibex of the Red Sea Hills, by 400 miles of !ow country.

The Walia live i n a cold climate. at high altitudes, and as a result they ]lave developcd thick coats. One of the most distinct species. rhey are also larger and more massive than the Nubian Ibcx, with thicker. heavier horns.

Walia became known to science only in 1835 and almost all that is known nbaut them was discovered in this century.

In !he last thirty ycars, before a!iy dcep study had been made of their habits. thcy havc been almost exterminated from a former abundance. Like some other animals, they are i n danger of going into oblivion without any detailed accounl of their hchaviour and habits.

From the early accounts of sportsmen- notably that of' Major H. C. Maydon in the early thirties-ii seems that Wdia were widespread in the Sernien mountains. I t is quf te cvidcnt irom these accounts that t l ~ e sportsmen who hunted them saw many more Walia than they would tnday.

In recent ycars, the WaIia have suffered much persecution though thcrc was IIQ reliable information on their status. I t was believed that thcre were very few of them left-perhaps Iess than a hundred-atid that urgent action was necded to ssie tlle~n from extinction.

The firs1 need, in such n case. i s to learn ths Facis with reasonable acctlracy. To t l i a l cnd 1 made a trip to Sernicn In Octohcl- and November last year.

When I began illy investigatio~i. 1 had only the haziest idea where Ihr WaEiu miglrt be round and no one in Addis Abahn cnuid telI me very much nlorc I l ~ a n I Iiad ~ a ~ h c r e t l rrom earlier accounts.

But as 1 drove lowards (he Scrnicn rnollntains horn the North, I saw a gigantic 2.000 to 5,000 feet high rock wall rearing on my Irft. Even i t ' I had known nothing a[ all about thc Ibcx. thar would lmve been the obvious place to look. It was 03 that rock wall that I found all those I believe to henow alive.

The starting point for the mule caravan is a place called Davarik, which stands on

-Mr. LESLIE BROWN- is a world authority on flamingoes - his book is considered the definitive work on the subject - and on

birds of prey

the high plateau of Semien at about 9 . W fl. No one here could give me any precise informatiorr, so I marched straight to a place cdled Gcech, which was a favourirc tocality for hunters i n the old days.

Within ten minutes of my arrival at camp, 1 had seen my first WaIia-four of them. moving along a Irorbontal ledge wit11 appalling cliffs above and below them.

1 found later that although the Walin occur along about twenty miles of cliff race. between points called Adis Gey and M~etgoga, they were commonest on the cliffs at Geech. Certainly it was Itere rhat E eoz mv best views of them and was bcst able lo study their habits.

(Cutttinurd on pape 14)

HIGH irr r h ~ hit\/! co~rtirt r. ul'Crf~inpitr'c S ~ r j ~ i r r ~ RUIIPP, tlrr f ~ n ~ n k ~ of rbp raw Il'rrlio !her s/(~trcls * l i f l ~ h ~ r

kid, wnfrl;,fitl as Mr. Brown pfiotogmphs.

( RrlnwI SEDEREK, u*Itcre Mr. Brown rntnperl. Tl t~ (-/if IIPW i . ~ n11nn.v 4.000 f ~ e r hiaJI.

THE EL US1 VE WALIA IBEX

1 also found a fair number at n corner of the crag called Sederck-known to Maydon 35 tlie Catlicdral Rock-whcre a conical peak is :rlrnost cut off from thc escnrpmcnt by a frightening pully two thousand fect deep.

This was q u i l t the most vertiginoug place 1 have ever hccn in and. althougll I h;ivc a good head for hcirhtc, I found it neccssnry lo lie on my stomnch when spying for W:~lia hencath me.

At Geecli. they were cnsicr to see. Most of tlicrn liled on a prominent buttress of rock \\.liich jutted from the cliff face. It was really :I hupc rarorbnck ridge 3,000 feet hi_ell, with i t s feet i l l savanila and its crow11 among tllc pian1 heath and giant lohclins.

On its sidcs. as elsewhere on the cliff. werc broad lcdees grown witti riissocky grass and giant hcath. often tliirty rcct hiph. Occasions t Iargc trees of cedar and St. John's Wort (W.perir.trtn) m;tdc good landmarks \ rhcn wanting lo poinn out Wsl~a l o my cornpznisns.

So tiny did the goats appear i n this grand setting tlsat it took some time to get uscd to tIic scale. But tlrey could bc seen quitc clcnrly. and their colouring was quite distinc- tivr.

The liralia g r a ~ e d in the early morning and evening. ti t1 9 a.m. or so, and nSter about 4 p.m.

This toutinc v:~ricd with the weather. For instance. on ;r wet morninp just bcforc

I left none appeared before the sun grew Iiot ;it about 9 a.m. When not grazing hy day thcy wcnt into caves, or into the shade cilsl

by giant boulders: then tlicy were almosl invisible. The same caves mipht be uscd 31 night s x roosts by GeEada B;thoons.

Walia werc said not to graze at night, bul I do not believe that; they sccrned perfectly a t home En their precipitous habilal.

I t was ensicst 10 see and count the Wnlio when they werc moving from cave to grazing ground, or vice-versa. At some stage In t h ~ s twice-daily movc, which they made briskly. running and skipping over rock fdccs. rhcy would cros~ a barc area. or rock or the head of a pully. As they did thn, i n single file, they could be countcd and their sexes dcter- mined with fa i r accuracy.

They were much morc difficull ro observe once rhey had started to grate. Sometimes they hrowscd. standinr on their hind legs like Gercnuk. iriside the forests of giant heath. but ii~sidc the heath thcy werc generally i~ivisi blc.

At the root of the cliffs, Walia had Colobus Monkeys for company and, at the top. Gelada Baboons. They were also often with K lipspringer.

The Wnlia is a dark brown animal with a pale belly and is thus easy ta distinguish from the pale-brown Klipspringer, which itself is aboz~t half the sire of n grown Walia. but could nrhcnvise bc mistakcn forn Walia kid.

11 was more difficult to distinguish the Walk from the Gelada Baboons and the id~nrity of any animal seen o n the rock F x e s had to be carefully checked. Scver;jl times 1 was certairi that I had picked up Walia. but prolonged observation slinwcd that they were baboons.

In all, I saw-or had definitely reported to mc-34 WaIia (of whicli 1 myself saw 311. Other probable and ncarly certain record5 brought rhc total to 41,

I thought that we might havc seen most of the Wslia on about a quarter of the rock faces. so that it would be fair to multiply by four to get an idea of the total population.

This. !hen, works out at not less than 150. or possibly 200 at the best. Althnuph this ir not a larye figure, it was more than 1 cvpcctcd to find.

A further heartening fcature is that the Walia seem to be brccding well. More tli;~~i hdr the I'crnales identftird with certainty Yiud krrls: bur taking into account othcr probable fcinnles this was reduced to about 35 per cenr of all femnlcs.

I thought [his :I pretty good proportion: i t is. for Instance. a far higher proporrion of young than wiZl be sccn among WilrIebces!c in the Nairobi N;ltional Park.

The remnant or tllc Mralia appears to bt [liriving well and. if piven ally rcaI protection, could rnulr~ply once morc.

The presence or cnlvcs provcd that them wcrc mnlcs. bur I saw only one male for even. rour or tive ftmalcs. 3 snw nonc of thc rnnpniliccnr bucks. with tlreir great thick curving horns.

The hest view 1 liad of a male was or a ! Dun9 buck by himself at 10.500 Tect, grazing f31c IR the evening on a cliA Face above me. Hc 1\35 higher up than any othcr W;~lia WTn.

Moqt wcre i l k less l l~an 9.500 rcct and 1 iuspccted !hat t h e old males. il'any. lived in ncrodcd ravines and gullits whcrt they could not be sccn and were perhaps more nnc!t~rnal than young and fcmafes.

On t h ~ t same evcning. i got closer still to two fcnlaies with kids. I llacl gone down the cl il'f on a reconnaissance, scarcely expecting to see anything

Jutting from the cliff facc was a promoniory of rock, on which there was a b i ~ trtlop of Gelada Baboons, I nppronchcd tljcsc and, to my surprise and deliglil, s:iw rhe Walia sunning thcmselvcs on a grass siopc on tllc T:[r side or the buttress. 1 reared they would bolt a1 (Re baboons' .o~etc~.y, but they p:~id 110 no attention, nnd 1 was al?le lo take b u r breathless photogr;~phs hclbre )hey finally fled.

Without moving from rllc snmc spot, I pl~otographcd a Klipspringer, whislling at he kncw not whal.

Strangely, tllcse Walia did not seem to associate the yelling of the baboons with the presence of' man-:!s any herbivorous animal would in East Africa.

Afterwards. 1 found that the Gel:tdn Baboons occurrcd in huge troops on the high plateau. bul wcre not molesled at all by I c r a t l people. They were 50 talne that Lllcy allowed me to walk within thirty yards of them. a

Hencc, to the Walin, tlie highpitcla~d outcry of the baboons did not necessarily mean danger. Tllc most common cause ol' SLIC~I an outbursr was fighting among tlre baboons themselves, nnrl no seas011 for alarm by anytl~ing eke.

Wslia Ibex hnvc no e~lernies but niall in this area.

f could find no trace or leopards, and tllc Semien Fox-rumoured to bc a po~enti;~l enemy-scizrccly ever cntcrs their hn bi ta~ and seems to Eivc elltirely on small rodtnts.

Larnyergciers or Beurrled Vullurcs (Gypaptus hol-hrrtm) are said to hunt Walia: but 1 never saw a Lammergeicr make a threatening move towards il Walia. nor did the Walia worry when the greal birds pliznccl along the cliff faces.

1 havc no doubt nt all th:i! tllc sole rcnsoil for ~ h c drastic rcductiun i n tlic nurnbcrs of W;ilia in the last thirty years is man's un- rcmit~ing persecution. which legal protcet ion by 11ic Ethiopian Govcr~imcnf 113s done very Iltllc to stop.

The dcclinc of the Wnliri is said to havc begun during thc Italiar~ ucc~~pation. G ucrillns ~iicii hiding in i naccessiblc place% arc said to have shot many, :IS did Ihe Il:ili:in soldiers and a few sportsmetl.

At the end or World War 11, the Walia h:~d a respi tc w hi l t peoplc reorganiscd Lhcir lives: but when more peacefill conditions prcvsilcd. RllYOrlC oivnirig a rinc liunlctt tlw Wz~liit rncrcilessly.

Ar rhe time o f my visit, their numbcrs were said to hc rlsii~g again from ;i law eb1.r when Iinrdly any coulcl bc sccn: ycl there was no doubt [hat t l~cy were still being Ilunied.

Wliilc direct hunting has plnycd tlte msGor part in reducing the species to danger point, human occupation and dustruct ion of much former Wnlin habitat may welt have bcen nearly as irnpor[:tnt.

Cultivation in Semien _goes cln up lo 12.000 Tceb on thc most app:llliug slopes :~nd 110 nttcnlpt a t soil c~nscrv;~lion 15 m;ide.

Snow often l ics down to 12,OflO feet :uld. when i t does, I h e Walia t'rnm (he liiplicr crag$ are i'orced down to Iincl rood. Tl~cy would 1hc11 run inlo cullivation slraiglit nwi~y ant1 the disturhanuc rewlting f'ram o hcavy human popula~ion must hnvc made m:tny Ibr~nel- 1Vali;t h:~r~n ts r~ntcn~thlc torl;~y.

tt is impos';iblu to s u r ~ e y the whole OF Sernicrq in two wccks. and A hopc to return lo rlo :I much nlnrc ihorough surkey in 19hS.

But 1 could find no cvidc~~cr 11131 :111y

Walin now existcd :!way from thc grcat north-iveqt escarprncnt. This is a safe rcl ugu. oilc wniilcl think. hi. any :~~iimal; ye1 tllcy :trc hunted ctrc*n hrre and in tcrrain wl~crr one would 5c:krccly lh ink it wi~rrhwhilc.

Onc thin5 is certain. hc~wcvur: in such terri~in it would hu vcrhy difliculi ti11a114' to eutermina~c 21 vr~nninc wilt1 goat.

To conscrvc t l ~ c rcm:tini~rg WaIif and permit them to incscrlte, they nccd nbsolu2e prn~zcrio~i, Forlun;llely, the Ethiopin~t G o v c n ~ ~ ~ i c n t are keen on this find. h r tu - nutely, roo, it dloulrl he l'r~irly e x y to t'Il;'c(.

Two guards, sittiatcd in stwtcgic places, should he able to do a grei~t {leal to salt.gii:~rd the remaining stack.

1 doubt iT. in Fact, thc Walia was evcr a very uumerous animal. On I he great clilT here ca111iot be more than a lola! of about 2.500 acres available to thcm as gra7ing ground. I'or mz~ch or il is totally innccessihlt., cvcn to Wali:i.

So s~nnll on arca could not support a 11~19~ population o r wild p a t s and the nortlr- wextern escarpmtri t mighL support at best a thuus:rnd Iread.

TIicir ;~bili!y to spread from there would dcpcnd largely on h urnan lbrbcarance and, uveri in conditinns of pcrFcct protection, they would find their sprwd hampered by culti- vation ;uld g~azillg by humans and their stock.

The bcst solution-both for the Walia ancl otlier forms of wEld Iifc in Semien- wt.liild hc to sct tllc escarpment asidc as a N:ttion:rt Park. attacl~tng to 11 n s i~ i l~b jc 3 K W 0f ~Ii3!t~111.

Scci~ ica lly. stlch a park would be among tlie nlosL supcrb in t h r world and the rutitre of the Wali;t--:+ncl OF other interesting crealurcs in the tacality-would then he ;ISSLI red.

Bur that's a tong way ahcnd yet-ir it ever 11:ippcns-and. in the rneantimc. wllnt is i~curled is 10 makc lhc existing protection of the W;ilin thoroughly cffcctive.

Tonv Irwin writes

SAFARI T HROUGHOUT the world today. there

is an ever-increasing thirst for knowledge-for facts, for fi_pures. for

~ ~ ( ~ w - I I o w ,

Thc media of radio and television, Press and thc platform spend endless hours-and coui~tlcss millions-is1 meeting. and i n part qucnc't~ing this thirst; yet by this tireless perforrnazice. it indeed encourages fresh demands.

Jf this is krue in the world 01 scie~ice and mcdicinc, space research arid the washing machine, it is also t rue o l the men and wonlen who come to East Africa each year-to spend their dollars, their schillin~s. their marks and francs.

They have a thirst For knowledge and, fact which was never apparent in ~ourists of ten years and more ago. To meet this ncw demand, professional I~untcrs and guidcs are findins a necd lo swot u p on their prep. as never before.

This i s a mighty tieal!hy sign. for as ilrc demand for knowledge grows. so with it comes n lessening dem:lnd to kil! and destroy. And if kill thcy must. more and more hunters are doing so wit11 deeper tl~ouglrl and clearer seIect ion.

I n no field or tourism is this more apparent than in the world of birds.

There is a well-known and ~nuch respected prokssionaE h u n ~ e t in Kenya who has k e n in thc game since the middle Thirties. Bittcrly cornplainiilg last month. he said. "When 1 first started this business. all 1 had to know was how to read a spoor. how no tclE n. good l~cad from a bad. a marc Tram a remale and a Kitchawk from. a Little Brown Bird."

Wit11 a long pull at liis heer, he went on: "Now. if I can't tell thc difference bctwccn a Kkla:~s Cuckoo and a White-browed CoucaE and point out a Golden-n~rnped Tinker-bird and a Black-headed Gclnolck when I see onc, 1"m likely to lose a client !"

The days or the Little Brown Bird are indeed aver and, in recent years, many a prol'essional liuntcr 11~1s llad cause to wonder at thc vast knowledre oT local birds, beasts and bugs rtrnasscd by liis client before cvtrr that man hrst arrilred in Kenya.

When HRH the Duke of Edinburgh visited East Africa last December ft-, hand over he lnstrurncnts of independence to Zanzibar and Kenya. he took time off from his official clrotes to visit Loiangolani. on the south- eastern corner of Lake Rudolf.

Unexpectedly, he didn" fish as do most HAT'S Dick Jessop, having just hosted a lot nf T Marlin. nick likes fishing the Pcrnbs Channel - visitors lo the Lake. Instead. he spent four Kenya.5 wuthern-mo5t coarr and days sittine on hot rocks in Ihe middle Ihl,nd: i t 's a piece of ws which I harp heen forerasting this arid. volcanic northern desert, jtlst BS n "must*' fnr worrd snglcrs. For tnu years, Pcmha spottinp birds. has h c n the sttrry vt hig tish which smashed tackle-a

L~~~~ t ornjtha]ogisrs were flabbergasted drear,' rnon~loau~ of b'thc-o~~es-that-got-as~~yYY.

at lllc rcsuli: 1 59 species and subspecies of Yet now, IT'S HAPPENED. I n the 10 days lcading birds spoztcd and to 'Orm "The

up to March 2nd (and fahicct always to confirmation), Dukc of Edinburgh's Rudolf Check List." th, All-Afrira. rpcnras hare heen hmkpn. Few old-time professiollals of' thc '"Little tk ica Ladies RPmrd, on line,

Brown Bird Era" would have felt at ease in ,,t a 165-lh striped mar,in. I t was rolroHed by SCIC~I ~0mp:lny. Mr. Monty Rrowne Cane of Kenya's mwt ardcnt anglcrc)

A~?other-and pcrhapq typical-new-look bnatina tbe All-Africa Str ipd Record, rr ith a IRh-16

safari came to an end early in February. firh On a"HO-lh line.

The Dartv consisted of John Wil!iams, T h n it was Mako shark-frequentlv seen. but never t h e ~ b ~ ~ i d ~ ~ M~~~~~ otni t j loloEist : a pre~iously reported on rod and linc off'the ~ & y a coast.

Thc tiwl of t l i r~e fell to Uougie Hinde, in "hl~mhe If"- professional hunter; a 12+year old Canadian and fair thir was, for nonnc Ita5 dnne more to further boy and his mother, who was on her fourth , Hig Game Fishinc in &st ~irrica tlinn he. East African safan. 1 But the big bouquet went to Mr. Robed Cronchy. a

Thc party spent a m0Illl.l in the impelle- farmer from l.hika, just nnrttl of Nairobi. Eiqhing trable forests of south-western Uganda and from '(ti'hitc Oltcr" (awned by Pemba Channcl Fi<hing

tllc hanks of the ~ ~ ~ j ~ , ~ ~ channel. I Club's Pat l-lempliill), he hooked n Mako on the morning of 3rd March; ju\l 72 hours later. the li%h was alongsidr-

Tlie two Canadians, mother and son. tail lashed. hut still kicking-and \lr. Croneh, f~,\]nd returned lo Nairobi with sighting-list of hirnsclf rrith the All-Alricn Mako Record at 63X Ihr, sonic 400 birds and in a happier frame of caught on a 13Il-lb Fine rsith nylon filament leadpr to a

mind than nine I~untcrs out ol' ten. sliort trace.

Outstanding among their finds was a , hs we go to ~ s s , "White Otter" and "Membe 11". "Sea Otter'' a d ' T h e Lallv Lee" are out there.

new species comorant-in waiting in thc Pernba ~bannrl: looking, hoping for the and marking unlike any pteviousl~ fir?( 1001)-pwqd~r. or perllaps even tw(tpr. the first

reported. I broadbill-fnr thew, too, liavc hccn sighted in the (Cnrrtinrt~d on p n ~ c 18) ' Channcl this year.

T H E N E W - L O O K S A F A R I (Conrinued from page 17)

John Williams* immediate reaction was that they had found a case ofrnelanism, or perhaps an undescribed breeding plumage but, after he had seen seven similar birds within a comparatively short time and limited area, he felt he had every right toclaim what he him- self describes as "one of the most important bird discoveries of the twentieth century".

The client shared every inch of this remarkable achievement and, in fact, was almost more enthusiastic about it than the Birdman himself.

I T is this intimate intrusion into the world of discovery and technical know-how

that is driving the modern client more and more towards the camera and the field glass and further and further away from the gun.

Nowhere is this more apparent than at Samburu, where Lodge Manager Freddie Seed is rapidly building u p a cIient-sl~aring "discovery book".

Mark you, Samburu is lucky in having an i ts books not only Freddie Seed, but also ex-Serengeti Warden Gordon Harvey. These two men know their animals and birds as well as most men alive in Africa today and Sir Julian Huxley tells the splendid story of a trip into the bush when Seed suddenly stopped the car, and looking at a fresh pile of Iion droppings, he staned a lengthy and accurate discussion on the recent mcal that the Iion had made of a porcupine.

As an immediate result of Seed's animal- habit awareness, Samburu is filled with stories o f unusual interest.

Freddie tells the story of a 14-foot crocodile which recently took a cow water- buck and dragged it 100 yards downstream; there It was joined by I2 other crocs.

The general belief is that crocs cannot masticate fresh meat, but must allow the victim to decompose in some hidden over- hang of the bank, or wedged under a raElen tree; but this ream of crocodiies tore into the unfortunate waterbuck, ripping off great chunks of flesh, throwing them into the air, then catching them-just like a marabou stork does when feeding.

Seed has another story of an African Harrier Eagle which attacked an eight-foot- Iong black mamba. I t had the snake- among the world's most venomous-at Ieast two feet up the body from the tail. The snake struck the bird over and over again. without the eagle showing the slightest concern.

Elephant antics Every so often, when the Harrier let the

mamba go, i t streaked off-neck inflated- into the bush along tbe roadside, only to be caught and dragged back by the bird.

After playing with thc mamba for about 20 minures, and havins been struck by it again and again. the eagle flew off to its eyrie, talons gripping tile snake.

Two visitors to Samburu-Miss Powell and Miss Alston, of Kitale-reported seeing a herd of elephant in the Iltaman lugga, with one old cow lying flat on her side in the cool sand.

The cow's precocious off'spring was making its mother's siesta hell, by jumping on her stern end, sunning along her reclining length and clamhering down over her face.

A second infant Ieft its mother and joined in the fun. Together they kept up a form of elephantine Postman's Knock over the patient cow for 20 minutes, whilst the rest of the herd grazed and watered nearby.

Surely this is a more rewarding sight than that OF a mature bull, staggering to death under the weight of ignorant bullets, for the sake of a few pounds of ivory and count1ess boring after-dinner tales of "my fine tusker".

F ROM THE DESERT to the Coast where. once again, the desire to kill is

on the decrease and the incentive to discover i s on the rise.

At Shirnoni-where half a dozen dedicated big game fishermen foregather with the coming of each marlin season-the main incentive is one of discovery. The habits of the marlin, the mako shark and the broadbill are really much mors irnporta~rt to this group than the killing of the fish, and the three most ardent explorers there spend almost as much time collecting rare and beautiful shells as they do fishing.

During thc current season, almost 600 sailfish have been boated off the three main coastal resorts, ranging from tiddlers around the 40150 Ib. mark to I 0 Ibs. and over.

The number of photographs that anyone can stand--even or himself-showing an angler poised proudly beside his eight- root-tong catch is limited. And there is very little money to be made by selling a Sail ro the local fish market.

WHETHER IT'S

FRESH WATER oR SALT GIANT PERCH or FIGHTING MARL1

The romance of Kenya's Northern Desert

r the golden sands of Kenya's Coast

the best of Both

E RUDOLF FISHING OASIS

FLY THERE -

So why not follow the new American habit: strike your fish, play it and bring it to the boat; then tag it in the gill (as you tag a cow's ear) and let it go.

A skilled fisherman can assess the approxi- mate weight of a Sail by eye when it is still in the water and gill tags are readily

' available.

I t takes only seconds to stamp the date and approximate weight on the tag, clamp it and cut away the fish without doing it any damage or causing pain.

An experienced American angler-Pete Smith, from Tennessee-was telling me the other day he has brought Sail to the boat carrying four gilt-tags, one dating back to three years before.

It is his contention that he and many of his fellow sportsmen get infinitely more pleasure out of catching an already-tagged fish-noting the dates and weights, and retagging-than ever they did when they used to haul the fish inboard to suffocate and. within seconds, lose it glorious hues.

For the run-of-the-mill Sail, this is surely the answer and t l ~ e first-rate condition o f many previously-tagged fish which have been recaught, proves beyond doubt that no damage or pain I~as been caused.

If this became a general principle among sea anglers along the East African coastline. we would learn more about the habils of our local billfish in two or three years than we have formerly learned in a lifetime.

T HERE has been fear expressed in our local Press-and particularly within the

Council of the Wildlife Society-that due to uncontrolled spear and gun fishing, the coral forests around the popular coastaI resorts are becoming depIeted of fish, and the live coral itself broken up by underwater hooligans.

I

The recent arrival at Turtle Bay of M. Rene Gantez, with a party of French skin- divers, caused a momentary flutter in the conservationist's dovecote. But M. Gantez and the majority of his team are photo- graphers and the bad press they received was without foundation.

We in East Africa have a fabulous coastline and all too few resorts along it; yet unless control is introduced, tremendous and per- manent damage could be caused.

F The simple answer-but not so simply activated-would be the introduction of gun and spear licences, together with a bag-limit similar to the controls imposed by the Game Department on the killing of fauna.

It would necessitate a very considerable increase in staff, men who would act along the shore line as Coastill Rangers as their fellows become Fish Wardens along the banks of trout streams.

And it would result not only in the saving of our coral forests and their inhabitants. bur also in increased revenue to the country.

The latter-at feast-slsould appeal. Research into the life and habits of the

Dugwg: exploration-without dcstruction- of the coral forests; a study o f the habits of the marlin: a collection o f the rare and the beautiful that lilter our coastline-all this would come within the appeal of the new- look tourist to whom the Little Brown Bird i s no longer an attraction.

lf we want these people here, we must prepare for their coming-in time, money and a jot of reconnaissance The field i s wide open and only we can despoil it.

The Duke of Edinburgh's

Lake Rudolf Check List

BIRDS SEEN HUH THE DUKE OF EDINBURGH'S Black-tailcd gbdwit F.G. VISIT TO LAKE RUDOLF DECEMBER. 1.963 C u r l m L.

Whirnbrel F.G. Wad only). Names nccording t o Mackmonh. Praed and Grant. Grc? phalarope L.

L. - Loiyanzslani. F.G. = Ferpmson'a Gulf. Cream colwred wmr L C1. = Ccntrol Island, Tcrnrninck's courser t.

Blue n d e d ostrich (S.c.moIybrtoplra~rcrl L. h e r black-backed w l t L., P.G. Grey-headed rpull L.. F.C.

Litt le grebe F.C. GulFbilled tern F.C.

Whilt-nwked conrnrranl t. F.G. Caupran tern L.. F.G. I.onp-tail4 cormrant or 4 duiker L. F.C; Cornrnun tern F.C. Dnrler L.. F.G. Roseate tern F.G. (heard only)

Lirtlc tern F.G. White pelimn F.G. Wh~tc-winp@d black tern C, P.C. Pink-back4 pdican 1. F.G. \Yhr?kered tern L.. T.G.

S c ~ w o r - b ~ l l d tern or skimmer F.G. Grey heron L, F.C. htnck bred snndprrmse I,. (Posribly Uchtennteins instead). Black-heaW heron L P.G Goliath hcmn L.. F.G: Speckled pigeon L, F.C. Purplc heron L., F.G. Pink-brrantd dore F.G. Crcat whrtc Pgret t.. P.G. hlourninr: dnwe F.C. Ycli#>w-h~llcd eprrt I... P.G. R~n~-ncckwl dove L. F.G. R?:lrk heron F.C. I i luchinc I ~ Q W I.. I tttlc rarct L.. F.G. hanl~qux dwc CI. M r e l heron F.C. Sq~lilcco heron F.C. Grwn-hsckd heron F.G. White-bmd m c a l F.G. (heard only).

hlcht hrron C.I. White-klticd wawny-bird F.C. \Yhlte m r k L. Opcn b ~ l l L.

A byrninian roller F.G. Irlarnbou I-. F.G. \ V n d ~ h i r 1. F.C. Pid k i n g h k r L. RG.

Gr~y-headed kingfiqher L Sacml ibi, L. F.C. Y r l l m - h i l l d hornha78 L. Glomy ibis L., F.C. Alnrnn rpwnb~ll L, F.G. African m a m b w l F.C.

19

Greater Ramb I. N i g h ~ r ( h r d only, mi= unknown) L ~outhcra or w a d L. F.G. Shoveler L.. P.G. Blue MWI nmumbird L Ycliow-billed duck L. W l d ~ w n I-., F.C. RPd-sn&rellor bnrbpt I.. darcmey F.G. Tinker-bird (spwiea unknonn) I.. Holte~uut t ~ a l L Red-hull L.. V.G. Cardinnl woodpecker F.G. (idmtiAcation unrcrtuin). Pints11 L. I v h i t c - l x d tree duck L, Little swift L. Fulvou~ trpe duck L.. F.C. White rumped or horns awilt L (identification msfertain). h r ~ o b - h ~ l l d goose 2.. P.C. F.r.wt~:~n ~ m r L. F.G. Palm swift P.G. Sp~lr-wnnr<l r m e t. P.G.

Cmted la& L. F.G. Whitebacked rulture L. Ch~smur-headd sparrow-lark L. Lapet-faced rulturc L. Chmut-hacked sparrow-lark L. (idcmtifimtion unmrtain). Wli~tc-hrndpd vulture L. Lc!nttan \ulture L. Atria. pied w m u i l F.C. Perepriw L., F.G.

T a w w a i l P.G.

C;rezter kestrel I, Yellow ~ e g t a i l ~ F.C. {probably w p r a l spccie~)).

Kite F.G. R l s c k - c a d hulbul L.. F.G.

RIack-shouldered kite L. F.G. Pale flyntcber L. (idenrificalion uncertain). Martial eaale L Chin-swt puff-back f tycatrh~r L. lidmtification uncertain). T s w y paelf F.G. Wnhlberp'% eagle C.1. Whentmr L FI.;~ eanlc L. F.G. lkserl wheatear L Pnlr chantin; emhawk L. Marsh hnrricr L. Reed;rblw F.G. (head only) l'alc l ~ a r r l r r L. Apahs (spwier uaknown) I,. Owrey I .. F.G. C isticota (species unccrtnin. bur t h o u ~ M to lw n . v w ~ i i ) F.(;I.~

Ycl low-n~ked spurfowl or francolin L. Cisticola (qpeci~. unknown. but similar t a ~ I a t t M e s ) F.G.

Puwle galllnuk F.G. F~rttpenn swallow L.. F.G. Moorhen F.C. Sandmartin F.C. Lcwer moorhen F.G. Bandecl martin F.G. Red-knohtd cool L.. P.G. White-eromPd shrike, F.G: (nesting!, Kor i bwlard L. Grey backed fiqcaI sbnke (~dcntificarlon uncsrlain) I. Senegal bustard L Reard only). F~rcaf L.

h u h ~ n shrike L. (identification uwrts in) . Water th~rltnee L. Troplral houhau L

Jafana P.G. Raven L.. F.C. Fan-tailed rave* L.

Ringed plmcr L, F.C. Kiftlltz's wd-plorer I. P.G. Wattled starling t, F.G. Thrcc-bnnded sand-nlovrr L. Sugerb starllnq L., F.G. ( ; r a t sand-dowr I... F.C. b r r v ~ l o u c r L. Scarlct-chestnE sunbird L. Spur-winaed n l o v ~ r L.. F.G. Violet-backed aunbrrd L.

Avofer 1. F G, Pmrrot-billed mrrm F.G. nlnck-r i&d'st i ! t L.. F.C. Little weaver F.G. (nestlnd.

Wcnvor F.C. (unidentitird aeavera i n r d i m h ) ) . Atrican mipp F.C. l\.l~tt+boadcd hullalo weaver L.. F.G.

C'h~tnut-croumd rpnrrow weaver F.G. ln~tinp). Curt- sandpiper I.. R k i c k x ~ p p d rncinl ucavcr F.C. (parr in rccds, identification Cittlo dint t., F.G. ~rncertl lnl. T rmminck"~ stint F.C. Snndrrling C. Red-billed quclea F.G. Ruli L.. F.C. Turnstone L. Cinnamon-bressted rock+bontins L. Common sandpiper L. P.G. Woud snndpipcr L., F.G. Note I. Rail ~ecn by toiyangalani aping not included In Sandninrr. <peck unkmrwr. (Originally t l m c h t tn be rpolfCd lorc@mn list.

\altdpipw, hut mwt unlrke!y on dl~tr~hul ionl . 2. MaIc )elto%-billed hornbills ell haw patches 01 Redsh.rr~k I... F.G. loow purple s k ~ n an the throat which are blown W n nlr sandpiper L, F.C. wt whpn lllr hird or c n l l ~ n ~ . Vemal- have dark C;reen<hsnk I... F.C. ~ r c y p:rtrhe~.

I fie Komance qf'

MASAI PLACENAMES I T MAY BE THOUGHT pedantic of me

to say that Nairobi is not the true namc of the Kenya capital. But it isn'r.

alt l~ough *'Nairobi" is, or coursc, a perfectly _good Masa i word.

The real nomc was given to the place where, in the old days, 'the Nai rob i rivcr flowed out of thc forest and the wttcr was cold as i t Ir:d been running througl~ slindc.

In Mnsni this would normally be c;illcd prtk-arc nnirnbi-"the water which-is-cold". but t l ~ c river was a small one and [he Mnsni have a curious way of saying that something i q small by dropping the prillcipiil consonanr in i t s name.

They therefore called tllc place enk-ore nai'ohi-"the small cold w:ttcr": :tnd Nai'obi w a s the name they called it by until the British ~ e n i u s Tor mispronunciation inserted itn "s" and it k a m e Nairobi.

One frequently finds that a Mnsai plncc- name has 1';iIEcn victim to [he inability or thc Bantu tribes to cnd n word with a consonant. Eramplcs of this :ire the names o f Arnhosclli, Magndi and Kariarldusi.

l a k c Ambosclli, a rather drcary stretch of soda, scldnm has any water in i t and never

LORD

CLAUD

HAMILTON

ally grass. the only t h i n which interests the M n s n I. They therefore called it Ern-hoseil- "lhc empty place".

Masadi i s derived from the Masai word Tor soda-nrqgnr. Unlike Imperial Chemical Industries (which controls Magadi Soda Company) tho Mnsai regard Lake Mayadf as being of no special signtficancc escept as an uneriding source o f the small lumps of

soda which they l ike to suck wliilst chewing tobacco. This h:~hit is, probably rare :irnongsl 1C1 execu~ivcs.

Marigat. the trading centre near Lake Baringo, i s also dcr~ved from magat.

Kariandusi i s the name of the small N:ttional Park nahr Gilgil of' interest to archnco[ogists. The nnrnc is derived from 01-n~~rin~tthrs which thc M:~sai give to two d iiycren t ivild plants-Plrrtnhqqo ze~'konirn and Rrthia rt~rdifillin. Tli c t'orrner provides the red pigment ~r'it l i which [hey dye tlicir leather-coverud scabbards: the lattcr is used by the womcn to tattoo the concentric circles which ~ h c y draw round their eycs. estendiny to t l ~ c lbtchertd and clieeks.

Another form or cosmetic. happily confirled ao the Mesai r;~ce. i s the airttitl pl:rnl. Tlicir womenfolk have found that its Icavcs. when cl~cwcd, stain the tongue. gums ond salitJa nn interesting shade orcmcrold grecn!

Damret t i Corner. near N:iimbi. also t:tkes i t s name from n wild pli~nl. known to ho tan is ts as Gomphncarptrr pl~~:mr.arpus. and to tlre Masai as p t ~ - l l q p ~ ~ r r f t ; . It hiit cn~r rnous round seed pods which Miisni children de l i~h t in "poppins",

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Other names associated with plant life are Londiani (correctly 01-(hinyo kl'l-diani- "The Mountairi of the Barnboo")-Eldamn Ravine. thc Kedong vallcy. Subukia, Sabatia, Ndaragwa and Ngobit.

Eldarna Ravine provides a really startling instnt~cc of Iiow a name can become cor- rupted. There is, of course, something in the nature or a ravine near the trading centre, but the name should rcaily be 01-damn ormyi/ mcaning "The sweet-smelling dav- time".

Some early lrerder must have chanced on it onc day when the acacias were in blossom and heavy wit11 scent.

The Kedong river and valley are called aftcr the palm-like trees many of which grow near the main road towards the foot of the Kikuyu Escarpment. Of-o-kihng to the Masai, n Icngth of its stem, srraightened. dried and l~ollowed out makes an excellent quiver Tor arrows with a cowhide lid at either cnd.

Subukia (i-subukia) is called after the Ekehegin ruppell/nna t sees usually known by their Kikuyu name Mukeo. Nearby Solai recalls the time. many years ago, when a plagilc or ants stripped the leaves off the trccs and the name means "They are leaf- less".

Ncathy Sabaria almost equals the mis- pronundntion oC Ravine, The real name i s Malasia. a species of local tree. CE~lrs~nn inn~qr~nlis.

The Mssai have a story xhat an old man narncd Gwni once fell asleep under a cedar tree. Whilst lying there a heavy branch fell and killer! him. They therefore calIed the Juniperus pmcen cedar by the phrase Jlr-tmro Gm.ai-"They killed Gwai". OF course, this easily became distorted into Ndaragwa, an area in which these trees flourish.

Laughter Ngobit, the next district to Ndaragwa. is

also connected with the cedar trees, the name meaning cord or string made from cedar-bark.

On the strength of its first three letters, Kipipiri mountain is sometimes believed to

,be 3 Kipsigis name, although how that could be so in view o f its situation i s a Iittlc hard to understand.

Somewhere on its slopes is a patch or deep sand in a usually dry rivca bed. After rain, when the river is running, water flows 011 to this sand-hcd and it sucks up the water -and tlris (with the slightly different spelling Kpihihi are) is exactly what Kipipiri means: "It sucks up the water".

When a Masai woman has a baby, it i s the custom to give her a roreleg of mutton. On one occasion, in a village sited at the bottom or a crater. the headman was so mean that he only provided some rotten uneatable cow- meat for a young mother.

This so enangered God 111 at, after tl~emother had left the village, Ile caused the surrounding cliffs to colIapse and bury the villase, killinp slI the inhabitants-

To this day, the Masai say that if you go to the edge of the crates at dusk, you wrll hear the sounds of village life. Cattle are lowing, childrcn laughii~g as they play and the warriors are dancing. The Masai call this place I/-Mcnenpn-"The Dead Ones"; Europeans call i t Menensai Crater, inside the greeal hill just north of Nakuru.

Nakuru is "Thc Bald Place" because- near the lake shore-the soda content is SO high that no grass grows.

Naivasha mcans "That which tosses to and fro"-poetic reference to the waves of the lake. TIx Masai name oi the site of Naivasha township is Koitnqj-a place which was so popttlar that people tricd Lo pus11 one another out o f it.

Giigil takes its name from the word keigil meaning "They return again and again". This refers to the frequent Masai

migrations to thc area on account of its never-dying river.

Longnnot mountain-"it-of-thc-valleys"- i s so called because of the scrrated ridges of solidified Inva which fan out from its silmrnit like thc spokes ol'n wheel.

Other Masai namcs Ibr rnountaiirs include Eburru. in he Rirt Valley (meanins "Tt sniokes'"a reference 10 thc steam jets on the eastern slopes) and Kijabc Hill, meaning "The Windy Place*'. its no doubt il is.

(Cor~linued on pn,qe 2 3

MASAl PLA CE NAMES (Cnrrtin~red ,front p a ~ e 21)

Anyone familiar with the Nanyuki district probably also knows the Loldaikas. the dry, rocky clinln of hills strcrching away north- ward from Mount Kenya.

Thc Masai sce Mount Kcnyn (which they call "The Dappled Mountain") as rt piant l l~lrnan head and they liken the Loldaikas to a pigtail. smeared with red mud nrld tat. hanging down over a moran's shoulders. Loldaika means ''Or the Pigr:~il".

Two other we\!-known mounlnins are Donyo Sahuk-"The I 3 i ~ Mountain"-and Elgon (I/-6ootr)-"The Rrenstr".

Thcre is n hi13 near Elmcnteita. on the edgc of rlic Masai country, which i s SO

slccf and pointed that lhc Masai say onlv one bird cell n l i ~ h t on it a1 ;I t ime . T l~cy c;lFI it Keirnl~rue~r-"Thc Rirds come One by Onc".

Nanyuki takes its name from the nearby river whose "'Red Waler" nttmctcd the nttcntion of the M:isaa.

Otlier ri\.ers in the district are the Naro Mosu (so named on account oS its "Black Stones") and the Burgurct. The meaning o f the Iatter i s unusunl ant1 not without in- terest. I t is derived from the word kehlpori, meaning "They sleep 11 u n p ~ " .

T l ~ c river was so called because. in the old days when thc Masai were raiding tlrc Mcru they uscd ro sleep t h e last night of the advance beforc the actual raid on the bonks ol'this rivcr.

And they slept hungry, not daring to l i ~ h t cooking-fires I c ~ t their glow should illcrr the Meru outposts.

Names hcginning with 01 are. of course. of MasnE origin ibr instance. 01 K:~lou (correctly I / -Kdnu) nicilning "tlic trec ants"; at 01 Jorn Orok Ib'Thc Black Spring"). you can see the water, fringcd by dark reeds, lying nut an the plain: 01 Tukai L a d ~ e . :it Amboseli. rnearis a Dourn Palm. and 01- Arrabal, near Thorn.ior~'s Falls. cnrnmc- rnoratcs "Tlre Battlc".

(The full name of Ngong rneanc "The Eye (or Sprinp) or t l ~ c Em-baga~". ;ineatby stream which in turn gives t t s nrrrnc ro Embakasi Airport.

Many years ago. the peoplc OF n Masai vil lage werc rnigmt ing: the nlcn going ahead with thc flocks and l~erdc u.hil%t thc women followed u i t l i the pnck-donkeys loaded with hnu~dio ld goods.

Thcy came to a rivcr in flood, which the men ne~otiated successfully. But by thc time thc wotncn arrived, it had riscn s ~ i l l further and four o f them werc swept away nsid never seen again.

The remaining women set up a mait of l~orror and distress ~ l l i ~ l l hmugh! the men running back to the far hznk. "Who lins been drowned ?" they called to

the women. "Wcre they rncn?" "NO", came the answer. "not men-

rn~/o~.a-not men!" And evcr since that sad day. the river which

flows under that very narrow bridgc n few miles north of Naivnshn, hns bccn known 3s rhc Mdawa-"lrlot Mcn".

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KENYA NATIONAL

PARKS ANID

GAME RESERVES

ERIC RISLEY -1 revie~vs, country by country, East Africa's Ncrtior~al Pcrrks md Game Reserves. Mapf-Y readers, of course, know them in firnarelv; bur many others ask for iufornmtion and

will $nd #/?is accounr inreresting.

I I 1

T HE NATIONAL PARKS are administered under t hc provisions of the National Parks Ordinance of Kenya, legislation which gives absolute rights to preserve the habitat of wildlife in its

natural state and totaIly precludes human habitation.

This law set up a Board of Trustees. responsible Tor the ndmini- stration of the Parks, and the land is leased to the Trustees. For many years tile Chaimtan of the Board was Sir Alfred Vincent, who is also the Society's President. of course.

National Parks in East Africa are a comparatively recent development. Since the arrival cf the Europeans in numbers ar the beginning of rhe century, a few far-sighted individuals realised the abwlr~te necessity For creating true National Parks. But the Government was stow to act.

Though recounted in his own book. and often retold. the story uT Mervyn Cowic's letter ta the "East African Standard" is historic.

Despairing of ever getting the Government to declare as a National Park that incrcdiblg valuablc wildlifc area on the plains outside Nairobi, Cowie worked out with Gcorgc Kinnear-the then Editar of rhe " h s t African Stand- ard"--a very careflit plan of shock tactics.

Late in 1938, the newspaper carried a letter. writtcn'in fact by Mewyn Cowie, but signed "Old Settler". I t advocated-in the strongest terms-the total exteminaticn of all wildlifc in Kenya in ordcr that the land might be put to more valuable use, for agriculture and stock raising?

He recommended real strong measures, suggesting that a start be madc by calling on the A m y to use machine guns, to shoot out the breeding herds orcows and calves of all plains game, to ensure their quick elimination-and the bulls could be killed off Iater. at leisure

(Cunti~~rted or1 p&?e 24)

COL. MERVYN co wrE, C.B.E, lrtrown to wildl~fe conseuvnfiotrisrs thru~i$lFortr the world ns rlre ~trun primwi!. respm~ih/~ for setfinp t ~ p Kenjo's Narional Pnrks.

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T A K E A D V A N T A G E OF THE T H R I F T S E A S O N F A R E S

KENYA'S NATIq 1Fro11i rlre prevr01t.r pope ) The Western section af t k P

To Cowie's h m o r , the first reply which came in was from onc of the fanners' associnrions, which wrote to say t h t this was exactly what the association had long been advocating and that the sooner the extermination was put into effect the better!

But Cowic"s lcttcr had sccdcd the raincloud: furious and indignant letters poured in.'expressing horror ar "Old Settler's" letter.

The apathy of the public-until now, happy to say "Goird idea. old boy" and leave ir at that--- at last mused.

Striking whilc the iron was hot, a public met ing was called at a Nairobi cincma. Many of Kenya's leaders spoke and a resolution was passed that no rurt her delay by Government in establishing Fiaticnal Parks would be cr~untenanced.

The Governmcnt-rulising, nt last, the strength of public opinion-reactcd by setting up rhe Game Policy Cornr~rittee of 1938. to make rccommendaticns.

T h i ~ was a REAL start and, but Tor the outbreak OF rrar in 1439. ~t is probable that Nairobi National Fnrk would have k e n declared in that year, As it was. i t had to wait until 1946.

The Nairohi National Park. now renowned the world over, may truly be said to have set the pattern Cot thc devetoprnent of Naticnal Parka in East Africa. Established in December 1946. the Park i s only 44 square miles In cxtcnt and thus to(> srnaII t o be a real ecological unit. But t h e edjnining Masai Reserve a l l ~ w s frce seasonal movement of the plains game.

Visiton to Nairobi are amazed-as weft they may be-to find thcrnselvcs photcgraphing. lion within a Tew minutes of leaving the Clry.

This Park has a permanent staff of Scnior Warden S~eve Ellis. two Assistant Wardens and 34 Rangers. In 1963, a total of 129.266 pcciple visited the Park.

A recent development there has been the bliiIding or the "Animal Orphanage". To the Orphanage arc sent, From alI ovcr Kenya. young animals found abandoned by their mothers. HEW thcy arc nuixed and reared until they can be released in the Park.

Easily accessible frcm Nairobi by bus, this orphanage is proving a great attraction to Africans. who flock out lo see the wild animals of their cnuntry which thcy have ncver yet soen in the Resh.

For the avcragc African is at a great disadvantage: he docs nc.t possess a motor car. nor can he afford to hire onc and, very naturally. he EF nol allclwed to go round thc park cn his bicycle.

Nairobi has no zou. but at least he can now see thew animals at cPcse quarters, even though in captivity.

Yet the orphanage also serves thc more serious purpase c l f atfrrding research facilitiaq lo zoological studcnts or Nairobi's Royal ColIege.

T SAVO is Kenya's largest National Park, covering 8034 square miIes of arid bush country; with

only twu rivers running through it. niuch of the Park is waterless cxcept in years of good min.

Indeed, being waterless, a large part nf thc Eastern section of the Park is not open to the public.

volcanic origin and, From under ; Springs, there gushes Forth 51 perfect, pure water each day.

Tapped and piped to supply away. this arnazin~ spring is f Hills, lying just outsidc the bo The boundar), between the Masa along the summit of the hills. 7 humans hnvc penetrated (in right to thc top of thc hills a

For many years the CoIonia' of eviction and. moreover. had in another par1 of Kenya on w l have ken kneficial. Rut the aac and, today. they are s~ill rher numbers.

Since the Hirls actually lie just may be a digression From the t but the water catchment of the C For the life of the Park-and ind away as Mornbasa-that WE. rr mentioning it. Let us hope tha ment will take action berore it i:

Tsavo was established For th and Fauna or thc dry country. elephant, buffalo and rhino. variety ofother game. but i t is Tor that it has h o m e famous.

Elephant are grcat wanderers when the human population of sparsely scattcrerl, elephant ct

each ycar in lhoir s e a T n n a l y Today. they cw no longer do aj

Irate where they find sarety t-rorn Park provides it and a very carel made in 1962 disclosed some * Park and areas adjoining.

TSA YO'S clepl~u,r I.T p+ n t m r

RI.CI/IJIPI. with 111111ty thrillit and so111~~ glnriorr i ' '~

L PARKS SKETCHES hv Rob .M<~r.~Itrrl/ ~lrow horn' the holtidi*~'~v a: rT~ron~ru wit/ ht. r~rcorpoiutr(l inlo flrr rieat Pt1rk.5' J~oref.

A vclzitect 's if very &nt Uge at Mzirna D gallons of

Admittedly. this probably coincided with a seasonal conmtra t iun; but it puses serious problems, for such largc concentratians must be near water and, in any area where watcr is scarce. the damage of these concentrations to trces and vegetation may well be mote than can be safely w~thslood. The elephant is a destructive feeder.

P. 160 miles I the Chyulu of the Park. Iakarnba runs

I o report that bnrba half)

a consides-

Hazards Despite the large elephant population. Tsavo bas

raced v e v serious poaching problems. for around its borders live some of the most determined pcaching tribes in Kenya, part~cularly the Wakarnba and the Waliangulu. to the East.

HEN Tanganyfka National Parh derided to build a complete, scli-cnntailml60-bnl Whotel at Slronera. Architetl Rob Marshall wanted to gel n r lar iml at the rile rhnwn.

Marshall snd the National Parks' Director. J. S. Owcn. set off Tor the area-n typical A i h n rochg Iiill. topped with huge ~ a n i t e boulders.

KecalIs Marshall: ''I uuggested that we Iwild the hotel nn tlre top of it, amongst the Imulden and. the more we drove aroilntl the h o p j ~ , the more excited I k a m e with the idea."

Ilirectnr Owen remarked that t h ~ r e might be Icoprtrd about and perhaps a few snakes in the thick b~tsh; hut the t-o mcn dccidcd la reronr~oilre on foot fhc game trail< leading to Ihc top.

Sa) \ Rob Marshall: "We had walked some 60 yards rrhcn there nas a most horrifying roar. About 50 fwt nhcad. four Iionesses got up from the l o r hush.

"I bad been a few p r d s ahead of Owen-but. seconds later, I Itas several Teci behind him, on m! nay back to tlle Land-Rover."

Mr. Owen realiscd the danger. and h m e d to face the lionessex He thrm up his arms and shouted at them. Mars l~s l l shouted, too. and the lionesses paused mornentaril!. grnwling and twitching tllcir tails. tlicn moving stealthily forward.

"Mr. O ~ c n hacked off, slowIy and quietly: I managed to get thc Land-Rnver started and put i t I>etween him and the lionfi~es," \ays Marsliall.

La te r in the day. tlic Seronrra l i 'arden raid that what thcy had met was a pride o f four lionesses and their 13 cubs. "They werc jusl warning )ow off; they probably wouldn't have Llllcd ytru," the inrrcdulous Marxhalt heard Itim sny.

But tbe general noinion amongst the Parks' staff was that someone had been vety lucky. "in any case, the stiff tlrinks nc. KO$ at the Campfire Bar ( w l ~ i c t ~ llnd just been huilt) were very mnch nccdcd". comments the Nairohi architect.

I lacing completed the liurried initial survey, blarshall took to an aircraft, phofogmphi~ the rest of ihe Ar~p/e. The firs1 ~Letrh-design nax rnadcaithoul Zhc architect having w t runt un the actuat ~ i l e !

brnent talked !d good land kment would 6 never taken ~r - increas ing

In 1956, in an a m only 30 milcs by 20 niilcs w~de. werc fclrmd more than t.2O carcases of rlephant rccently killed by poachers. Special ant I-poach~ng teams wcrc at thfs time set up by the Govcmment. which quickly resturcd euntrol: but, for reasons of economy. these were subsequently disbanded and, today. Kenya has no spc ia l anti-poaching teams at all.

the Park, this r this article: ills is so vital ~ o p l c s as far apology for

mya Govern- e. xion of flora ~tarly. of the ains a wide rous elephant

The Park has a permanent staff of two Senior Wardens-David Sheldrick. in Tsavo- East. and "Tuff?" Marshall, in Twve Wcsl, assisted by five Assistant Wardens and 78 Rangers.

There are Lhree lodges-Kilaguni and K i tan i i n Tsavo Wesr and Aruba. in Tsavo East-prov~ding accommodation For a total OF 92 visitors. I n 1963, thc nurnkr crT visitors to Taavo Park was 3 1,137.

By contrast with the hcit low country of Tsavo. the two Na~ iona l Parks o f Mount Kenq.a 1227 square ~niles) and the Aberdare Mountains (228 square miles) arc far the most part at an altitude o l over IO,MX) Fcet and. on M w n t Kenya. the lnwer boundary of the Park runs along the 11.000 ft. conrour.

the old days as small and @s of miles r . L j ' j c l ~ .

~d to conccn- rtion. Tsavo trolled count phani in the

T HE SCALE of fees for architects in East Africa makes no provisiun lor danger money. "The speed with which I left thme lionesses can't hc chargcd out as trarelling time,"

said thc smiling, Roh, "ttut I discorered a little-uqed ~ect inn of Ilte $tale, nhlclr wv\ that additional Fees ma! be charged for henices not normall\ included. such as rc\irirlinns nn tlie pile-wtticfl ~pplies. I think."

lVith scaling ropcs and Icvels. Marshall and a mountaineering enthusiapt later measured thc rocks and the resultant design i~ one a€ East Africa'% most unu511nI.

I t naF decided (us thc pcr~pcd ive a h v e sttons) to $ling the roof. tent-like. hetween the bigge<t huldcrs. The ruof itrclf wi l t hc canrtructed of boarding. nith copper-faced water-

pronting over it. "We discovered that thc biggc~t hurder

rest!, on a ~rnalter ane, forming a dauhle- ended rave which ha% ohriou~l! tm a firm%' den. There i c \ume Masai painting 011 the rr~ck walls, too. and ac plan to lcare i t there, to make thiri one of t l ir I~c~tel '\ mnqt itrtrac- t i w room\." says the arcliitect.

And 50. another Iwautiful National farkg building i~ h r n , mmmanding n side V ~ C H

over the Serrmem plains-superb temporas! home in which to nelcr*me many lhrrumnd5 of eildtife cntliusiast~ in tlte to cnmr.

SCRONERA Iton trl p l f ~ y InoL p e ( ~ r c d > / ~ , /71t1 . . ,

The Mount Kenya National Patk was established in 1949. that o f the Aberdares a Tew months later. In 1950. These are real high altiiude ~nountain parks and to be up in one of them on a fine day is a truly exhilarating exprience.

The views are stupendous and the alpine vegetation of the grcatcst interest. One gets that delightfill leeling of alonfness and detachment rrom the ordinary world o f one's everyday business.

In a salient o f the National Park running dawn to the lower edgc of thc forest on the east side 01' the Aberdare Mountains, the Sarnaus "Treetops Hotel" is situated.

Thew two mountain Parks are administered jointly by one Senior Warden, onc Assistant Warden and 30 rangers. Bil ly Woodley is Warden in Charge, with his headquarters at Nyeri. Othcr than at "Tree- tops," there is no accommodation in these two Parks.

Kenya's youngest National Park is Lake Nakaru ( 14.907 acres), opened by Petcr Scott in 1961. As yct. the Northern section of the Lake is only a reserve; but i t is hoped shortly to rake i t ro National Park status and thcn thc whole Lake will then come within the Park.

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THE PARKS OF KENYA (Conti~il~e< from pnge 29)

This Park is mscntially a bird sanctuary and a real treasure. The concen- tration of wildfowf and waders-both resident and migrant-alone make a visit worthwhile: but when the flamingo are on the lakc-t he Greater in their thousands and the Lesser sometimes literalfy in their millions-it is a sight almost beyond belief.

0 F QUITE a different nature i s Cedi Nationat Park (107 acres), on the Coast some 70 miles north of Mombasa.

G d i is an ancient city, first built in the 13th Century but sacked and rebuilt several times. Today, it shows a good example of an ancient Arab city and, undcr the charm of Wnrden Jam= Kirkman. exavarian and expioration continue to add to our knnwledp nf the old culture and stormy h i s r o ~ of the East African Coast.

In Mombasa, Fort Jesus-guarding the entrance to the dhow harbour-has been a National Park ~ i n w 1958; last year. it rcceived 16.945 visitors.

Through the generosity cF the lrustecs of the Gulbenkian Fund. the Fort has been restored wl~erc needed; further cxptomtion has been carried on and an excellent museum ntrw exists in the Fort.

Lastly, we come to Olorgesailie National Park. some 42 mila from Nairobi cn an all weather rcad 10 Magadi. The Park covers 52 acres in the heart of zlle Masai country.

I t is an archacolngical site nf considernble interest and is reckoned to be one of the best sites for seeing the tools and implements of hand-ave Man, dating from thc middle Pleicestocenc Age.

These, then, are thc National Parks of Kenya+uvcring as wide a variety of country and wildlife as one is like11 to find anywhere in the world. They exist tcl givc total protection to the habitat and wildlrFe of the areas and. with the exception of the Nairobi Park (in wllicb nine Sumali tarnilies have a liretime right uf occupation). there is no human habitation whatsoever within them.

Kenya-and indeed the whole world-owes to M e m y Cowie. their Director since the beginning, a v e p m a r debt ror his work in, getting thesf Parks -tab- lisllcd.

!I is to k h c p d that i r is not vet ton late ti3 mtablish MORE parks, fur the existing National Parks--splendid thouph rhey are-do not yer cover all the hunal species of K e n p , There is no National Park in the vast Northern Frontier of Kenya, for instance, and such faunaas the Grevy's zebra, oryx k i w . Somali ostrich and the reticulated girare, are not included in any National Park.

This is a matter of no little irnporhnce. for since these animals do not exist further south-they are not to be found in any other National Park in Africr.

CAME RESERVES

I N ADDITION to its National Parks, Kenya has a number of Game Reserves. Bmadly smaking the distinction betwecn a Gamc Reserve and a National

Park is that. whereas in a National Park human rights are precluded, they may well exist in a Game RCWWC.

In the latter, however. no animal may be killed and, under the Wild Animals Protection Ordinance, control of Fauna is vested in the Chief Game Warden.

Most of Kenya's Game Reserves are owned by the indignous Locat Authorities. Formerly known as African District Councits, these Local Autho- rities were regrnupd just before Kenya's Indepndence and are nnw termed COLI~Q CounciIs,

Subject to approval by the Minister of Home APiairs, they have the power lu enact by-laws and it is through these by-law that the Councils have set up and administered their Came Rcservcs.

This form af Reserve has orten been criticisad as being too ephemeral: it has been suggested that human rights play too hig a part. But it must atways be remcrnkrcd that Kcnya is a country of many tribes. where pmure on the land is intensc. and the tribes guard zealousIy their land rights. Where a people use land for w r i n g it is asking a !nt tc, surrender really large areas for a National Park with the excIusion of aH human rights unless thc total arm of land owned by the tribe is as great as that o l the Masai. Wirh tourists from overseas aniving in ever-greater numbers. however, some of the Councils arc beginning to realisc the value-in hard cash--uf a Game Reserve. There is haw that. by patient negotiations ktwcen the Game Depanment and the Iml Councils, in due ccum mow and more a m will havc stock excluded Trom them and new areas may become tnle faunal reWNeS.

As will be sefn in some of rhc detailed accounts which follow. local councils in more than one area have agreed, only for the Ioml Members of Parliament to intervene as "champions of the people"and to upset negotiations on the grounds that it is a trick of the Europeans to do the indigenous people out of their rights.

But let us pay tribute to the pastoral peoples. who have lived from time immemorial in harmony with the witdlire, and to those CounciIs who have set aside part of their land as Gme Reserves; without them we would have had no wildlife in those areas.

The Meru County Council Game R w n e covers some 400 square miles of muntm to the Nonh of Mount Kenya bordering the Northern Frontier Region. The Council has totally excludcd human activities and this resene is a true faunal sanctuary.

(Continued on p q e 32)

MARSABIT

RESERVE

PARK

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i t is far trm sn~al l I r ? play a significant part in the vonservallrm rrT the w h d l ~ l c THE PARKS OF KENYA the arcs.

(/.'urn#; prtpu 311 In i t nru 10 he Founrl ~ h c Rig Flve and also rc.l~culated g~taffc and Grcvy's

Zcbra. oryx beisn and many othcr ninrc conlrnon spccles. High tributc is due rrr the Meru County Cuuncil. firr they have tlvddc a

handwm)r attnual gr;tni or M.000 to E b . 0 0 0 to cover tile running cosrr: u ~ r l i l lt)(13, thcy rcceivcd no ot~tsfdc help. nor Iind tfwy yet recrcivcd any profit.

In I')(d, tlrc Kenva Gorcmmcnt &anted samc fZ.000. the Elsa Fund E l .5W, ant! Wclrld Wildlife a rusther £ 1 .OW.

There is a self-servicc accommodntinn lodgc wrth 12 beds at I-eopilrd Rock for rchlcli hnokinps can k made at the: Gornc Dcpartrnent Headqtiarfei-, in Nainlhi.

Alqo in the North iu the Samhum {Uaw Kyiro) County Council Game REferve. cvcn mrm truly rcprescnlatrvu of (he arid Norlhcrn Replo11 OF Kcr~ya than the ML'TU Rrscrve. The samc species are also to bc fuuntt here ~ogethcr will1 the Rlue-legged Large Solnali Ostrich.

Thit Rmcrvc-from which stock and human ac~ivilics are extludvd+overs only 40 rrluare rniirr; evert with rtne new Isiolo County Council Gamc Rrwmc.

The prment rewrvc canlc into k i n g ui January 1963. the Council wcciving a granr or fl.Oa) frnol Govcmnient and n gcriertl~rs gik or £5.000 from Captain Ua l i n Sofibit. Unti l then. !lie arca'r s:~rlthcrn end had been par1 rrf the h r larger Morsabi~ National Rcservc.

The Samhuru Itmene lies on the Northern nank or t l~e Uasa Nyirrr Ri\'cr. with rr rlvcr front:^^ of 30 milts. Thc I-r-dp ts situated right on the rivcr. has 26 kds, will1 full untcring. nnd eight $elf-scrvicc bcds. Racrklngs can bu made from Nnrthurn Fruntier Safaris Ltd.. In Nnirttbi.

The Wnmba Scciiun Cuuncil crf the Srtmb~rrw, in lvhosc jurisdicricm the mscrve lics. had ogrced to drruble [he qrzc a r t h ~ ~ rcserve in recognitton of Capta~n Snrsbie'? gift: hut, in ~ h c evcnt and under I x a l poli~icaT precwre, the County Ciluncil refused tr, endom thc pr.lposal.

On the South Bank nr t he IJx3o Nyiro, oppasite tlic Sambur~~ Gamc Reccne, thc Isbtjlo County Cvuncil have only this yc;ir set asidc some 75 srltlall- nriIes as a Game Rcsenv. ftuln which they have :excluded stock and nil human activ~~ius. Thiz i~ a niost ir;~luable additirm ro the Fa~nh~lrll Reserve ;unrl inclttde~, the well- known "Rufkito Springr".

-a*. .

. . . .I.-.

THE FUTURE

T/[e first teleplrofie cull .from arp u s ~ d /a provide relephcrt~r. .court? r;es . ~ p n t ~ t ~ irr,y fhc n-or ld. {/re African continen1 r o u ~ ~ d and 1~1cfrapI1 .rervi~es Jl.otn By playing an n c t i v ~ pnrr in via rr comrnlrt~icat ions sarellif~ East A/&-a lo mosr rounrri~s planning rJle &vdoprnenr r?j'r~lr- ~t-a.~ mock in 1962 h e t l t - ~ ~ n m /hr ~sarl(l. rommunk.afions, ~i~i thin Afrirn EQ.TI A,frirno otlrl America. From East Africa's t h r w rapiral and also h ~ r wecn Afiica and fiIpcnmmrrr~irarEon hetlt'e~n rr t i~ .~ . Illairobi, Kut?Ip~!a ortd urk~rcotcnrries.rheE~s~AI;iran natiorrs hy rrsirtg .~nfe l / i !~ .~ i.r Dnr ear Salaam. he Inr ~ r - Posts and Telecnmmunicarion.~ being sr~rdi~d by long-term nariariol Te1p.v Service (of grow- Adminisrrorion is making o pIann~r.7. I n ~ J I P menn f im P ing r mportancp ro commerrbe) rnajor co.ontrihutio~ toit-ardr p firien I . if less r r~r~~n~rs ic . F ~ S o>prrn!c.T m mow rhon 36 d i o p i ~ i ~ the , f llfure (lf A frfra.

The new Reserve will not bp onen to the public until the 1st July 1964 and i t i s not planned to provide any acconimodation in thc lsiolo Rewrve other than camping site^, which will be bookabte at the Game Department.

The Munitalp Foundation ha< made a most generous gift of f2.500 for the lirst vcar and f l .OM) for each of the following four years to enable this Reserve to come into being.

T HE furthest north of Kenya's Game Rcwrvcs is thc Marsabit National Rmrre, covering most of the romr on Marsllbit Mouritain which rises so

ningnificently out of the stark desert around it. The area is approximately 800 square miles in extcnt and only in this Reserve in Kenya can one be reason- abfy sure of sccfng Grcatcr Kudu. Though heavily reduced in numbers by the r inderp t epidemic of 1960, they arc amin beginning to build upand can be seen In small numbers.

It is h o p 4 shortly to add to this Reserve some of the open grassland fringing the forest, edge. As a National Rcserve it is administered by the Director cf National Parks but ha5 not the status of a National Park. Billy Woudley. or Nycs~. 1s Warden-in-Charge and there is available a four-bed self-service lodge. for which bookings can bc made at Bunson Travel Scwicc. in Nairobi.

Intending visitors should make careful enquiries before setting out, and comply strictly w~ th the travel cunditions laid dawn, Tor tbc road tn Marsabit tmvcrscs sonlc 200 miles of waterless desert.

L ASTLY, we come to the two Masai Game Reserves, AmboseIi and the Mara River.

The Masai Amboseli Game Reserve, to give it its full title, comprises 1,260 squarc mikes of land. but is a Reserve jn name nnly. For although the Council passed by-laws giving them the power to regulate grazing and other forms of l~ ind usage, in fact no restrictions have cver been applied !

To the visitor, Arnboseti means the 200 squarc miles of swamp arca around 01 Tukai. Here, in a series of old lakes at the northern loothills of Kilinianjaru, bubble up sweet-water springs Ted from the snows of Kitimanjaro.

I f Amboseli is lo survive as the great wildlik attraction which i t har always been, Ft is iniperative that Marai stock are exduded frcrn these 200 square milcs. Once this has, k n agnecd the hnundar~es uf the former Nat~onal Reserve which it replaced can lx rcduced to this inner. smatFer area.

Protracted negotiations continue with the M a ~ i for the evciusion OF srock. fur this is k i n g made one or the conditions in the negutiations for the Future leasing of thc ncw Lodge. Were it not for limited. but powcdul, local poliricztl opposition, agreement with the Masai would atreadv have k n reached and a satisfactory c~lnclusion is vital, for Amboaeli is one of Kenya's greatest natural aswts-une which can easily be ruined Sorever by the unending trampling herds of cattlc.

Since the Kajiado Counry Council or the Masai tnok over the control of the Reserve rrom National Parks in 1961, the Council has received an annual grant-in-aid of f8.500 rrom Governnienl and a further grant nf E5MI t in 1 963164 for rilild improvement.

When thc area ceased lo bc a Natinnal Reserve. Government b3ughr the OS Tukai Lodge and Hxtur~s froni the Trustoes of the National Parks and presented then1 10 the Council. At a cost of E25.00Q3 the Govcrnment also builz Tor the Council [he new 36-bed Catering Lcdg. In addition to thc Lcdp, Ker and D ~ w n e y Safaris Ltd. havc a very pleasant tented camp cl~se by.

F INALLY, we have the Mami Mara Gamc R ~ s m e - 6 , 7 0 0 square miles overall, wirli a tme inner reserve or 200 square rnifrrs. Here. to t h west or

the great Rift Valley. are rolling prassland plains interspersed with hillsidc tl~ickcts and rivcrinc vegetation: because i)f tsetse Ry, the arca has never k n grazed by stock and has thcreforc remaincd in an alrncsr pristine condition.

On these plains are to k Found all thc spcies uf game commcln to the grasqlands or shut liern Kenya-including Top! which arc hcrc abundant. Tcpi is another spccies not t~ be found in any of Kenya's National Parks.

SFnce the incepricn cf this Reserve in 1961. Government has made the Council an annual grant of E8.000and, in 1'163164, an addititicnal grant cf £5,000. to assist the development ol' the Rcserve and i ts rcads. Ar a ccst of E25.W. Govcrnment alsn built the 20-bed selFservice Kcekcwk Lcdge and prrsentcd this to rhc Council. Bnokings can bc niadc at the Game Department.

Not only has the Reserve been losing mcney heavily and r l~e bad state of the roads reduced tourist trafic. but-through neglcct c f proper precautions -the wh-le Reserve w a s burner! over in 1963.

The Kcnya Gnvcrnment is prepad to spend a further £25.000 on increasing the capacity o f the Lcdge and putting in full catering Facilities: but. following i ts experience with An1boseli"s 01 Tu kai Lodge, Government is not prepared ro release rhc moncy until it receives full assuraficc that tllc Lcdge wilI Ix prooperly run. The salvation of this quite lovely Reserve would be f~>r the Council to a g m to t f ~ e cnlasgcmcnt of the Lodgeand its leasing to an established catering business which could afford to pay a [air rent: but the Council is nct prepared $3 r 3 do.

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LAYER BY MAN IS REIN UNCOVERED IN EASTERN AFRICA C HAKLES DARWIN HIMSELF was the lint to suggest that the African

continent might be the cradle OF mankind and inthecenturywhich foIlowcd his speculation, there has been round in East Africa a sequcnce or rclevant

fossils. the cartiest dating from 25 million years ago. Mnct nl' thrcr RIIJP thei* rli-rrwr- tn nr snd L i / r r * T B R t m = t r ) t # w h n u r . .LY"L l,. I..-- Y.... ..a-.. .,I-".-., ." w.. U..U I....,. Y. V . Y . -PI,. .,.."-

work has now established that East Africa was a centre a t great importance during thc whole series of biological events that culminated in the crnergencc of Man.

Mankind has diverged most markedly from the rest of the animal kingdon1 in two w a y :

FIRSTLY, by the use of qeech. This is associated wEth the capacity For abstract thought and memory.

SECONDLY, mankind is an habitual maker of tools, and it is principally by a study of thc first tools of stme, that we can attempt to understand his early cultural history.

The several stages of this have k e n found most completely in Africa. Around 1 million yean ago. the first men were making and using simple

stone tools. Today, we call these "Oldowan" or "Pebble tools". after Oiduvai Gorge where they have been round by Dr. Leakey, together with the rossilised bones o l their makers.

About a half-million yeam ago, a new tradition of tool-making arose, one charncterised by hand-axes. T h e makcm of 'these spread-as had their prede cessors-throughout much of the Old World and, in places, they may have continued this tradition until as recentIy as 50,000 years ago. Thus Africa was the m t r e and source of a distribution which ex~ended into south-west Europe. the Mediterranean area, and the Indian peninsula.

Millions ot hand-axes have been round in these various parts, but almost all of them come from river gravels or other deposits, which have been disturbed by geological processes during the many thousands OF years since the owners ceased lo use the tools.

PEBBLE TOOLS (Iefr ) are r l~e okdesf r~co~nisable human itnplrrnents. They are simnp/,v stones slrarpened lo a single jagged r d ~ e by the I~PIIIDYII! of a few flakes. AY Oldirvai, {hey ure associnred wit!; fhr h o w of Zinjanthropus, rind the Inore mutt-l8 ke "Pre-zinj" Sossil.~. HAN D-A XES ( r i ~ h r ) arc often rarefilly made ra hove sharp ~d,qes nnd opeini . They probably scuvt.dall rhP muny purpo~cs afa tnolfern Frunri~tg kttge.

ER, THE HISTORY OF -By GLYNN and BARBARA ISAAC I 1

Glvnn LI, Isaac look a da~rce in Srienc~ nr Citpefown University. before wading Arrl!aeology or Cnrnbridre. He had e.rcavated and work~d fn Sontlr Afrim und Norf91 Africa hefore coming to Kerc~a in 1961.

He i s now DP~II?V Director in the new Centrr for Prefris!ory and Palaeorttology, Nnjrobi. of wlriclr Dr. L. S. R. LPokey is the Honorary Director. Dlrring 1962-3, Mi-. Isuar directed e.rt~jrsiv.e exrnvarions at Olor.~e.wilie, the series H.lricl~ i t is /toped lo campleie drtrihg {ha f 964 season.

Hfs w*, &rhnra. read Eng/isli at Girton College, Comhridgp, before P I , P ~ I I J Q I I ~ s p e n d i ~ ~ ymr nr tire Insrit~re of Archu~olo~v in Londnn. They both look forwflrd to on inr~nsi~*p period of sfttdv imto Easr Africrt's inrportoat prelrisroric pmr.

for Pre11isror.v and Palaeonrolo~~ for the hen& of research workers and ~tien1her.s aftlte ptrblir.

Simple resf mrnp forilities ow nruiluhie. Enqrriries xt~ouuld be nrade to fire C e t ~ t r ~ , P.O. Box 302?9: Pftone 22648, Noirohi, Kenya.

DISTRIBUTION MAP, slrowirr~ tlte loclatio~r of so~tte in~porlanr rire.~ in Easf A f i r T/te bclrcl~ing rleno~eu ari7as irr which hattd-n.ws b a ~ e h e ~ n ~ O I I N L J .

However, in recent years-and especially En East AFrica-thcm have been T IS AT STTES such as these that it has been possibre, by careful excavation. discow~ed places where tlic camping sites of these early peopIes remain cornpa- to obtain intimaw glimpses o l the lives or rhe"handare" materr-what ratively untouched by change. This is duc to a combination OF several favour- they ate, where they chuse to camp and how rnany livcd together in a particular able circumstances. hunting band.

The subsidcnw of the earth's crust, which created the Rift Valley. has also caused to be formed--and to be destroyed-veral lake basins previous to the cxisting ones. The lomler lake shorrs were favourite camping places for prehistoric man; occasionally. the tools and food rubbish which he left khind him were covered and prcservcd by layers of ash silt from the then-active vol- canoes.

This covering may k several hundred feet deep. so that thc sites are only exposed whcn modem rivers chance to cut through the deposils and reveal them by erosion. Such circumstmccs are rare; yet in East Africa several such sites have k e n Found and studied: Olduvai and lsimila in Tanganyika; Olor- gesailie and Kariandusi in Kenya; and Nsongczi in Uganda.

In 1963, an important new sitc was reported at Melba Konttrure, near Addis Ababa in Ethiopia This latter still awaits dctailed study.

Oiorgesailie, 42 miles from Nairobi in the Kenya Rift Valley, i s one of the most famous and informative of thesc. I t was discovered by the pioneer geolo- gist Gregory. in 1919. and rediscovered by Dr. and Mrs. Leakey in 1942, who realised its great archaeological significance.

The arca was later given by the Masai to the nation and established as a National Park and Field Museum. Large-scale excamtions in 1962-3 have revealed parts of a number OF camp and living floors. rogethcr with an atmost complete one.

I n one place, a rocky ridge stuck out into the rormcr lake, thus offering easy access through the swamps to the lake shores. The surface of thiq peninsula is littered with stone tools, which were either too heavy or too blunt to be worth carrying any hrther. It would only have taken about five minutes For an experienced done-worker to make a fresh hand-axe. (Contir~rred on p a p 361

OLD RGESAILIE-on!! 42 miles f o n l Nufrohi-is one of rite nrosf infor#toln,~ of sires. Her~,larnil i~r !ired ul llre e d ~ e of u freut Iuke. -

1 "U ==mww- " . Y i . C " >> - -. .-- - - - - '-.--c--xT --=- =.me ,

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WARDLES KENYA UGANDA TANGANYIKA ZANZIBAR

Prehistory in

Eastern

Africa (Conrinued from page 3-51

Associated wirh the tools in the mud sill were broken fragments of rossilised boncs. Thesc had bclonged to an extinct species of large horse or zebra. perhaps hunted for fuod.

Most of the other sites excavaied lie in an area whcrr shallow streams trar~ened densely-vegetated swamp flats. The sandy patches in the seasonally dry streambeds must have made ideal canrping spots. Their pnpularity and Frequcnt occr~pation is shown by thc vast bulk of stone tools.

Although the source of the raw material is nearly 2 miles away, almost two Inns. had been carried in, by hand or human back. lo ctne particular camp.

Also interesting is the fact that a few tools. such as quaot 6nIls and chert scrapers. arc niadc rrom rocks found 30 and 20 miles away respectively. This indicates the h~rnting band either ranged over wide strezchcs of territow. a r had trading cnntacts with another group.

At this panicular camp-site. perhaps betwen ten and rwcnty men and wonicn had feastcd on the meat or a now extinct giant baboon. which must have weighed at lcast twi~r: as nittch as the modern species.

The 'broken-up bones and ~ee th of more than ten of these animals were kund. but how they were hunted and caught we do not know. Thc baboon is a craftv animal, which indicates xrnae degrcr OF ingenuity was used in capzuring so many.

Thc use of the bolas, or heavy throwing stones. lias been suggested; or i t could have bccn by snares, or wooden s p a n or poisoned watcrhdes--none of which merhods lcave traces Tor the archaeologist to dettxt.

Wc can guess howeuct that the meal was caten raw. since there is no evidencc For fie. Unf~irtunacely all vegetable matscr and soft animals tissucs have rotted away, and long ago disappeared, so that much will never be known aboui the rest of the meal.

Ycc. from our acquaintance with the eating habitaof rnodcm peoplcs ignorant or agricultural practice, we can dcducc that roots or plants, fruit, grubs. insectsand snrall animals would have formed a large part of the daily rood.

A study. not yet compietcd. of the pollen preserved in the lake mud, may eventuallv show more cIcarly the prevailing cofiditiuns and the lypcs of diet available.

The influence of such a hunting band would have hatad no niore erect on the balance nf nature than that nf a successrul pride of lions. The power to aIter and crntrcl his environment was as yet only a potentiality in the tool-making and social habits of these early men,

HAT was the appearance of these men. our ancesturs? Unfortunately, no human fi.rs~l has yet been found at Olorgesailie, although the more we

search and excavate, the greater is the possibiIity.

But. there are a number of fragments. known from Oldi~vai and elscwhcre, which sug-gest that the makers r,f hand-axes were not radically disqirnilar frc7r11 ourselves In their physical appearances, although some of them may have had larger and more muscular Rces.

Mand-axes were followed in the wquence of prehistoric develnpment by a phase in which a great diversify of much smaller tools came to dominate ihe tnol kit. Many of these smaller tools show p e a t skill and precision in their manuCacacturc.

Speciatised equipment was developed For differing regions and environ- ments. and thc relatively simple cuEtural uniformity over wide areas disappeared. During this period the races ar man, which we know today. may havc made their appearance.

Jnmrnuch as the hand-axe makers of Olorgesaiiie k l u n g to a period bcforc h i s divergence, they are-in a sense-the fathers of us all.

T h e change which has rcvolutiunised the lives of men since the glimpse ive are given uf them at Olurgesailie is the use of lire and or the arts o l agriculture. These accnrnplishments havc enabled Man increasingly to alter his environment. and to atkernpl its control more and more surely.

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I M k C l N E an area uf R , 0 D 0 stltl;rre miles til~e size or Wales o r Mass~cl~usctts) stretched out from the root &IF Kilimanjaro in thc heart nT Africa; there you havc Kenya's largest Na~ional Park, Tsavo.

Historically, Tsavo is Fnrnol~s fur tllc man-eating lions which tcrmriscd the wrlrkers hu~lding the railway line from tlie Coast to Uganda in the 1800s. Today, it i s hcst known all over the world fur the thousands or clghantr who wander in this vast area whcre human habililtion if not allowed.

A Fcw years ago, thc ctephants wcrc belicvcd to nu~nbcr about 4.000.T11en, ihrottgh the gond scrvices the RnyaS Navy and the A m y , aircraft were brouglii in on a training cxcrcisc and set about counting the elephants in the Park and its surrounding migntiun zones.

The total round in an area or about 20.000 srluarc miles wws 16.000. or whicll about 9.000 clepllrrnts wcre within thc boundaries or tile Park. 71is \*a9 an u n t ~ ~ u a l concentralion at the peak of n long d r y period.

"Whm you travd along the rt~nds OF the park, even lhougli we have hundreds crT miles or ll~crn, you only obscrvc a strip a Tew hundred yards wide on either side". a Wnrden points out. As n result, an aircraft has bcen bought ~vi t l l the hclp r>T an Aniericnn game-Iovcr anil now the Warcfcns are learning to fly.

A Furtlrer indication af t l ~ c increasing value of flying i r ~ the battle for game preservation is indicated by the Fact that thc Director uFNationa1 k r k s himsell', Mr. Mcrvyn Cowie, is tnining For his pilot's licencc.

PiZoring an aircrah is not the cmly unusual accnmplist~nient required of the Illen respunsible I'or safeg~~arding thc natural heritage o f the Tsaw Psrk. To lind u u ~ more. wc wcnt to call on 36-?car old .Iolin Nesbitt,

He and his wire, ~ormer nursc, Jean, livr in n comfortable house nor unlike mfl1ii)ns of suburban lmmes thrtlughclut thc world. On the neat lawn in front 01' the house, thrcc-month-old h ~ b y Roberr was astcq in his pram, We climbed the crazy-paving steps and cnteted the Ilclusc throug11 the vcrandah [erran: as the cuckoo cluck chirpcd tcn.

On the flot~r, little Cccily was pIaying with new toys received on her lllird birlllday, the prtviouq day. As Mrs. Ncsbitt clcared away the tlisl~es or a late Sunday breakfast, John told us sanlething nf his work as an Assistant Game Warden. For this tyyiciil domcsiic sccne was unusual in line respcci. Thcir home i~ in tlie nliddlc crf Tsavo.

PARK, YOU "Q2MPETE .J WITH

Anthony Hughes fznds

"We have a lot of trouble kceping ihe garden neal and tidy". Ile ~itrd. "First it was the rock rabbits-but we managed to gct rid cf them, Then the monkeys came and made a mess or everything. Then the clephanrs."

He shrugged and smiled. "Wcll, you can't rcally compete with clepha~its". Ile said. Neverthelcrs. they manage to keep the garden going somchow.

I r is a particular problen~ For John's 82-year-oId father who lives with them. The old man was a farmer-in Fact, one of Kenya'searly European xttters who arrived in the country more than 50 y a r s ago. He likes to kcep l ~ i s hand in by tending a vegetable garden but finds nearly c\cry htxbivornus spcies in the Park cnjnys his cabbages.

Befnre hc joined the National Parks 11 yearsaga. John Nesbitt workcd with the railways. "People scem naturally to think or a Came Wardcn tendf~ig the ani~nals. putting a lion's leg in a splint ur rearing an orphancd calr elcphanl.

"Or course, we do have a lot of this strrl or thing to do, but niost rlf m y own work is on the engineering side. Wc have a whole neet or cquipinenz [or road building and maintaining lltrndreds of miles of road."

HE CH[EF PURPOSE of the roads and tracks is to prevent poaching. The main subjects of the poachers. interests am elephant ivory and rhino

h~m--the latter still valued as an aphrodisiac in many pam or the world. John's opinion is that punishments should bc strengthened and that mngi- strates should impose the full rigours of t l~c law upon those round guilty.

H e explained how many days were spenl by Game Wardens and Game Rangers tracking down p~achers and how much Further work was needcd tu get rheir cases to court. An even greater consideration is the actual suffering caused ku the beasts who may drag round half-severed limbs, or trunks, as the cruel paachers' snare tears deeper and deeper into their Hmh.

"We found one old bull elephant with a snare that had CUI through to the bone or his leg all round. The wound was crawling with maggots and it is im- possible to say h3w many months hc may havc hem limping mund in agnrty before we put him out of his misery." commentcci John.

Thc Wardens lead a devoted team ofsome 100Game Rangers. Many ofthem are involved iutl-time in keeping a look-out Fnr poachers. Others accompany visiton nn lheir safari in the Park.

They know the habits oS the various animals and the most likcly pIace in which to see particular speck, according to the season. time of day and other cunditions. They can save time For the travelIer and make sure Ile gets his money's worth.

Two vantage points havc h o m e renowned fur elcphant watching. Thesc are at Mudanda Rocks (north of the NairobilMombasa road. where 500 elephtmts were once seen ovcr a two-hour period) and Kamboyo, a cnuple rrT miEcs From Mtito Andel, halfway point b c t w n Nairobi and Mornbasa.

Here, vinually at the bottom of thc Warden's garden, is a man-made drink- ing traugh to which large numbers of elepliants comc regularly, augmented at times by rhino. giraffes and smaller game. As ihere is always a steady cotcrie of "regulars", this pool bas gained the name of ahc "Karnboyo Drinking Club". The anlmars movc to and fro. within a stone's throw or Warden "T~~ffy" Marshall's house.

The drinking pool wag actually the result of animal "blackniail". Con- sistently, elephants used to come ~ n t o Mr. Marshall" garden, uprooting thc watcr pipes and trampling down the plants in their search For water. "Tuffy" cam- promised by building their own watering point, a few huridred yards away froin the house.

Elephants have a fantastic sense nF smell. Thcy have been known to scent uilt water rrom a distance of 50 miles and will walk vast distances in the dry season when farced by drought out of thcir favourite haunts. There is one smart elephant in ihe Manyani arca of Tsavo who bas mnstcred the art of turning on a lap to get water.

Rcsides i ts elephants and rhinos, Tmvo contains most of the animals for which East Africa is famous. From an observation post at thc pool at Mzima Springs, visiton can watch hippos and crocodiles. A t the same pool, the under- water l i fe can be seen lrom a half-submerged observation tank.

7 / f L CASL 4L. I,\ T I I I . S C I , A T I I I I S P I I L K L r r l A'ilu~~rni n/Eo~is vrsiror:~ to piroto~rrtph. o> rr r r t l i . , ul- jrrsr sll rorriforrr~bl~~ wl!iSr. rhe sper .~nr l~pnm on. (Uclon,) II 'F ~ t ~ t ~ n c r ~ i t ~ t e , atv~ott~~crd !J.V the 1~1roo of ~ I I P drt~~m.

The Park abounds with zebras and giraffes and with more than a dozen species of antelope. Thcre are wild pigs, wild dogs and buffaloes and the Park i s particularly rich in the varicrg of its bird lifc.

(Conrintrerf st1 pare 40)

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ELEPHANTS and PARKS (From page 39)

HE KENYA GOVERNMENT is well aware a l the great natural hcr- itage it holds in trust lor ihc whole world in i ls Parks. In order that v i r i ~ n n

may sec thc spcftacle of wildlife. cvery possible facility is ~ v e n . Moreover, nnly by entry Fees and other payments can the Government aKod to kecp ~ h c parks gokg. Tourism. in fact, is second only 10 coffee producing in the nation's monomy.

In recognition of the need to encourage people to come and see the witd lire, a luxury hotel has k n set down in the heart of Tsavo. The Kilaguni Lodge is sited an a r~dge nverlonk~ng a water hole at which all species found in the Park come to drink.

As they eat their early-~norn~ng breakfast, or sip their evening cockraifs nn the temce, guests can watch the animals enjoying their own meals and drink just a few feel away.

While built to modern standards. the Lodge has a genuinely African atmosphere. Local stonc Stom within the park has been uscd througl~nut. Kcnya timber and ~l~nkrrri (palm leal tharch) have been empIoved and African designs and materials are featured in deccraticns. Guests are summoned to dinner by an African drun~mcr.

They can stay in private cottages or in smart suites. cach with its c l w n balcony looking over the watcrhnlc towards Kilimanjaro. The hotel l~as n swimming pool and there arc petrol pumps and a sllop-all this only a four- hour, 170-mile drive either from Monibasa, at the Coast, or From Nairobi. the capital or Kenya.

Kilaguni has its own airstrip, which can be uscd by trvo-engined aircraft of East African Airways, or by those cf the many charter companies, or by private flicrs.

Thc Naticnnl Parks administration gives cvery suppcn to the provision ( I T facilities fur visitors. Fnr rhe natural heritage r f the Parks must be preserved. both ror scienliiic purpcses and for cultural and aesthetic reasons.

This is perhaps best en~phaslsed in a recent statement by Cd. M e w Cowie. Director of the National Parks o f Kenya, when he said: "I believe, and 1 have always believed. thnt the wildlife oF Kenya is immensely important: i t is important lo the people uf Kenya as well as in millions uf people all uvcr rhc world.

"It is thererore our responsibility to devise and execute a wise conwrvation policy. in which therc is a pIace for all useful activities. There is no defendable reason why wild animals should come into conflict with legitimate agriculture and ranching.

"Equally. guud farniing should not thrcilten wildlire habita~s. I r is simply a matter of dcsipning a prnpcr pattern oropt imi~m land use." CoF. Cowie went on.

This pattcrn i s already emerging from the systenr (IF Kenya's National Parks, which take as their motto the graphic phrasc: "Thc wildlife of today is 1ic.t uurs t o dispcse of as we please: we hold it in t n ~ s t and must occount fnr it to thuse w h . ~ come after."

Thc p m s ~ c f s o o f acbicving this objective have been &really improved by the profound statc~nent of policy by Kenya's Prime Minister and other Ministers concerned, madc to the recent rnnfcrence cT the lntern~tional Union Tor the Cnnscrvarion of Naturc. I t rccordcd t hat "the Government of Kenya. fully renlising the value of i t s nati~ral resourix. pledges itself to conserve then1 for posteriry with all the nicans at its disposal".

I t rvas a notable and significant moment For East ATrica's wildiife-ne which lays foundarion ror the greatest hnpcs concerning the future.

40

i! fleets in

The

of

Mystery

Adulis by CHARhES HAYES C'RASHTD GTO.WS7L-RS IU' ruarwlt!hrc srrk~ J!o~.r loirz ~*~/irlu rbi , .~ fill wC~en

r l r ~ ~ were desrrojvd hj' o rnndnl grrren nerrrt~ nine rrt~rrrries 0x0. it t~ /)elievetI.

OF THESE DAYS, the dust of a ruined town in Ethiopia ay yield up secrets of the history aT East Africa. Formerly was the great port of Adulis, to which came great maritime their search for the commercial riches of the Ancient World.

Today, the site of Adulis has been forsaken by the sea: but crumbled houses and factories of t i le merchants remain, preserved by the soil of centuries, From that soil, we may yet reap a harvest of East African history. for some of the story of the Aksumite Kingdom, and its connections, was recorded in stone tablets.

Adulis was the rich and busy port For the pre-Christian capiial of Ethiopia, Aksum, lying 20 miles away. It was the exit through which poured vast quantities of exports,

important entrepots For the trade which encompassed nor only East Africa. but Western India, Ceylon and the Far East-long before the time of Christ.

Today. this sforehouse of history is being investigated. The glory of Aksum itself is being interpreted and understood.

For long neglected by those who thought East Africa had titiIe history, Adulis with i ts capital-Aksum- bids fair to become one of thc great wcnders of the East Africd world.

making their way to the courts nf the Biblical king. No one knows when rhc Aksum~re

kingdom was first set up. but cenainly The fleets of Soiomon. purchasing it was more than 1 ~enturies ago.

ivory and gold and frankincense. There is a bridge bctween the founding visited it; i t was one of the most of the Aksum dynasties and the arr~val

THE OEA UT Y of rrfrstr~nnslr ip of this 70-/oar sfclr Au.v Iasred tht nrm~h r l ~ e yeurs sittrr wo.v ~recrell in A ~ S I I I N , probnbly irt 111r 3rd cenrrrry AD, rtw.vhr us port of

un open-uir. ~ l f a r , or mettroriul.

in Ethiopia of immigrants from the South Arabian peninsular.

The language they spoke--and in which they wrote--had its roots in a common dialeel origin with Arabic. They called i c Ge'er. "the Fanguas of the Free".

Inscriptions in a temple they sct up at Yeha, near Aksum, run "plough- wiseq'-from right to left in the first line, from left to right in the second, and so on-and are klieved to date From periods of remote antiquity, probably the 7th or 8th century BC.

Adulis rcmained a popular market for the trading fleers. which were tilted out each July for Africa from Barvgata, in India, with cargoes of wheat, rice and that commercially important cmp, sugar. They landed cotton cloth. iron and steel. cinnamon ircm the Far Emt.

The seafaren visited the East African ports, along rhc Somalia coast and as far south as modem KiEwa. perhaps, takinp aboard the exports which the Ancicnt World sought- i v o ~ , tortoiseshell. rhino horn. ostrich plumes, gold.

To the Aksumires, these ports were indeed "the ends of the earth"; beyond. said the navigators, the unexpiored seaboard curved westwards and the m a n "mingled with the Western Sea".

Fram Kilwa and Mombasa, the merchant fleets called at Malao Ithe mcdern Berbera) and Avalites (Zeilai -ports of thc "Incense Coast", which were included in the Aksurnite kingdom.

Although today's visitor to Aksum is immediately surrounded by bands OF youth offering 3rd century Aksllrnite coins Tor sale, none of the gold and copper currency has yet been identifi- ed in East Mica.

nut. since it is recorded that each of the East African city-republics was ruled by a monarch, the explanation

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The Adulis Mystery

may be that none wished to recognise

the coin from the north whcrc they were in common use.

The youths claim they pick thcm up in the rubbtc c ~ f the old city, whcre so little seems to have changed in 16

centuries. There is much still to be discovered and. undcr the auspices of the Ethiopian Govcmment. ex- cavations are proceeding.

But the visible remains of the once- powerfill city arc enough to convince of its importance as an archaeological site. The glory of the colonnade or monolithic stele--only one 70-Sect- high specimen of which remains standing--can be gauged From the beauty of the monsters which lie crashed around the site.

The gwld plaque which once told

thc story of the stelc has gone. but thc nine nails which Ileld i t remain in position.

Cosmos, a merchant-navigator of the 6th century AD. spoke of a great marble chair which stood at the side of the western road into Aksum; i t , too. has disappeared. but may

easily bc recovered as investigations paticntly proceed.

Many more indications of the connections between Ethiopia and the mainland countries of East Alrica may come to light in the process.

That there are such links is clear- the Row southwards with the Kalenjin people of the cultivation of I P ~ (the srnaII-grained cleusine crop so populal amonp t the Ethiopian farmcrs anc also found arnonpt thc Kipsigi! cultivations): the trading posts whicf cxist (complete with phallic pillars in the dcsert euuntry north of Uganda the fact that clans amongst tht

Baganda claim origin in Ethiopia-+] these points invite research.

Ethiopia--so long isoiatcd From the sea by countries which drove her people backwards from the c o a s t s 4 opening up its store of thc past

Roads are bcing constructed undc an amb~tious communications pro

But more than anything, the rapic advance of Ethiopian Airlines intr the jet-age of aeronautics rnakc travel to these ancient sites easie than evcr 'before. And the cnchant ment of such history repays stud)

AFRICA'S MUSICAL

HERITAGE IS IN

DANGER

says Enid da Sylva

T HE HUNTER stood poised. string of bow taut against the arrow. A note of music echoed as the arrow was released. I t was this sound-so the story goes-which inspired the creation of the stringed instruments of Africa.

Tn fact, the four-feet long ntono-found among the Watende tribe in Soutl~ Nyan7a. Kenya- bears striking resemblance to a bow. It, and other tri~ditionat African musical insrrumenls like it. are made and played by instrumentalists wlio live in remote areas. far from the bustle of Kenya's modern towns. Every important event in tife-from cradle to grave-

is recorded in song. Children's sons provide a wealth of research material. some of them being Found in almost every part o f the country despite the great variation in languagc groups.

The Turkana version of one such song, the ornhn, is the most highly-developed, with thc children sit~ing in a cirde and the leader acting the part of n father dividing his wealth amongst his stlns.

We has a pebble for each child in the ring and as hc passes it around the circle, he names it-+ cuw, a camel, a donkey, or a goat.

"My children." sings the leader. "my riches 1 share BeFore I die. beiorc I die. From the earth comes our wealth And from all that lives on it- The b a s t of thc field. the wild of the bush- So tend it with care, tend i t with care." For pnerarions, melodies and often instruments, too.

were handed duwn Fmm father to son. But like many t h i n g traditional, African rnus~cal tradition has k n in danger of being lost as change sweeps acmss the continent.

I t was this danger which set ane man off on a rescue operation. an attempt tu preserve this rich treasure of Africa. In 1958, Graharn Hyslop, Music and Drama Offiwr in ,die Kenya Minisfry of Education, invited 20 traditional instrumentatists to Nairobi's Jfi~nes' School, there to begin a serious study or the instruments they played and the songs they sang.

a Nyaronra 0nchir~-ir I ro~rr A'isii plr~ms r l r t p abukano, lierryoll'.~ klrrtr/e boss..

So successful was the project that other courses were arranged. In Elgon Nyanza, where the response was greatest, a music fcstivaf was staged and some 90 instmmentalisls came with a medley of instruments-two-stringed fiddles; five-strinmd h a m ; ei~ht-strinmd lyres: flutes. hotns and - . dlzlms af all sham and sizes.

I n Tzcl~oni counte-another part or Nyanta-in- strumentalist lsoka has k e n plaving his 18-inch long bamboo trrfele For 35 ycars. From four holes cut out at the lowcr end, he prodllces an amazing series of tunes-gay, sad, played on a scatc of five notes and tuned in semitones.

Hyslop Found that thcrc art many fine troubadours like Isoka who, throughout thcir livcs, play only to small. very local audiences: their melodies are part of Kenya's musical heritage.

Thc tonal quality aT AMcan music is not Western; for example, East African traditional music rarely uses the European d-r-m-f-s-1-t-d scale. Rut, although rhc tuning and intervals hetwccn notes may sound strange to non- African ears, it has a special quality and charni.

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AFRICA'S MUSIC (from page 43)

The complex African rhythms, toe, are of immense interest. Often several rhythm-patterns are interwoven into a single orchestration, Jike warp and weft in an intricate textile design.

Some of the names of the traditional instruments have in them thc very sound of music itself. ln words like rrrono, Eilrtngir. siirirf, you can almost hear the plucking of strings; and in cndonyi and ~firnbrr, thc heavier, sombre sound of drums.

Simple materials are used in the construction oS the instrumcnts. From the Coast Region of Kenya conles the bung'o or ~rrttrnarl a reed instrument with a carved, bell-shaped mouth and a sound like the Scottish chantcr.

The muvarorli, shaped like an ocarina and also played near the Kenya coast, is fashioned from the hardened casing of a local fruit. the size of an orange.

The ferry-crossing at Shimo la Tews Creek. near Mornbasa, was made exciting by the sinp~ng ferrymen. They made music on a conch shell, picked from the sea shore, a single hole bored near the narrow end for a mouthpiece,

Sometimes a large wooden bowl, covered with hide like a drum. is attached to the bow of the stringed instrument. The seven-stringed Iirrrrtgu is so shaped, so i s the siiriri. a small two-stringed violin. The ob1tkat1o, one of ihc largest instruments seen in Kenya, has eight strings. Some 30 inches wide at the top, its length (including the string-frame) is 42 inches.

Thc drums-most important percussion instruments throughout the world-arc known by various names in Kenya. The beau~ifully constructed efitrrrbu, From Rugusu. is about 30 inches long and 12 inches at its widest point; instead of drumsticks, the eJirmbrt player uses his hands.

The kaya~nho, made tram reeds with hard sccds inset betwcen the layers, is shaken from side to side and often accompanim the Rute.

But the practicc of music cannot stand still and efforts arr being made to inject new lire to Kenya's Folk art. Several impressive African chorales, sung in Swahili. have becn accIaimed in Britain and Europe.

Says Mr. Hyslop: "The traditional music of Kenya is varied, technically well-organised and artistically respectable. But experiment i s essential."

To perpetuate the arts and culture of people who are thems~lves under- going change, the n~usic of Africa must not only be revived, but perhaps rc- shaped tn fit the new pattern ol lift.

Though it may lack the glorious sound of symphony orchestras, the tradi- tionat rnusIc aT Kenya-and indeed of AFrica-can contribute something of special value for the world.

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The Societv's Notes

WILDLIFE CONSERVATION IS BECOMING A This i s what the

EAST AFRICAN 1 FACT

MEMBERSHTP : The number of fully paid-up members, at the 3 1st Dcccrnkr, 1963, was-

Life Members . . . . . . . . 477 Junior Members . . . . . . . . 41 7 Adult Members . . . . . - - . 2,790

TOTAL . . . . . . . . 3,684

May we draw attention to the fact that the membership year runs from January 1st to December 3151 and that a membership applicatian ftrm wit[ gladly k sent to prospxtive mernlxrs by thc L~ecutive Otiicer.

HUNTER'S ANTELOPE: operarion .'Hunter"sW. descrtkd in Decemkr Ajriranu, resulted m a rot& of 29 Hunter's Antelope being released in ~ w o areas or the Tsaro Park East. As very heavy ra in has fallen in those area since that tlme. tall vcgctation now makes it vcry difficult to keep any dctaited observation on nhese animals.

However, no casualties have hen observed and. in one release area. nine Hunter's were seen m a single day. in twos and threes. They were in close proximity to each other, sn i t is hoped that they thrive.

NEW GAME RESERVE: we congratulate the IsioIo County Council OF Kenya on setting aside 75 square milcs oF [and as a true fauna raervc, rxcluding all stuck and human rights. T h ~ s area is described in dctail on page 32.

MARINE PARK: T ~ C IUCN Conference, held in Nairobi last September, made a rccomrnendation favtwring the cntablishmenr uf Marine Parks off the East African Coast. where fish would not be disturbed and where they could be watched in all thew k u t y hy grjpglcrs.

The Society is actively following up this recommendation with the re- sponsible Kenya Government authorities: cc+ntrul of the underwater shooting or fish, in areas whcre these appear to be nvcr-shot, is also bcing recommendcd.

GAME CONTROL: We reel that we should make it cleat to our readers ~ h a l we suppod the policy of the Game Departments or the three malaland East African countries jn their control of @me in those cuttivated areas wherc heavy damage could be caused to crops.

Such control. unfortunately, is an intregal part of wildlife management; lack of control only causes those whose suppon we seek to turn against can- servation in general.

NATIONAL AZIDWBON SOCIETY : ~ h c National ~ u d u - bon Soctety of America gave nation-wide publicity in the USA to information we sent them about the very serious effect the fashion-trend for leopard-skin garments and liandbags was having on East Africa's leopard population.

Our sincere thanks for this timely help. (Co~lti~rrred or; ihe n m t p f e )

TONY I R WIN, foantfer4Yditor of AFRJCANA, lrus b ~ p w o new 1-enrzlrp. He (lescribe~ ftirnse(f as n "srffnri-hmk~r. rottrisrtt ronstrlranr an(lpirblir.bf". b r r r lrmainr a t,igorotix rncntber of fhe Emr African WildIYc Socier~'-~ Exec~~rilte Cotnnlittee.

WILDLIFE SOCIETY does: OW do we spend the inoney which we get H from mcrnbrrrhip subscriptions, donations

and various Society erlterpriscs ?

WE opcratc a ga~tlc rescuc teal11 which is fully cquippcd to undertake scscne operations of animals whose f~ttuse is endangered by agricultural. scttlenlent schemes or other I~~i~nan mtcrcsts.

WE have our o w l Wildlifc Society aircraft, flown in vital game counts, anti-poaching drives alld ~ised for a pilot training scherne for National Park and Game Dcparcmcnt Wardens.

WE help to financc special projects on ganae conserva- tion whether within o r without h c National Parks.

WE rtin our own Scicl~tifjc and Technical Conunittee whose ditties rangc fro111 foddcr and grass rcscarch, ccofogical and ~nanztnnlogical studies to discasc and mlgra tory invcstigatio~is.

WE hclp to frna~lcc and advise Africnn County Councils OH trlanagclilcnt of thcir Garnc Sanctuaries and Rcscrves.

WE prepare tans for Cdvernrnen tttl and Departnlental presentation both to home and ovcrseas nuthorities.

WE administer funds raised by outsidc organisa- tions; for cxanlplc, thc ~t~oncy raised by the World Wildlife Fund for the White Rhino Prcscrvation Scl~cmc in Uganda is administered by thc Society.

WE act as co-ordinator md host to National Parks and Gamc Dcpartincnts in many of zhcir projecrs.

WE work in thc closcst co-operation with the three Govcrn~l~cnts, Gamc Dcpartmcnts and the NazionaI Parks and thcir Directors arc active 111c1nbers of our Exccutivc Committee.

OUR perrnancnt staff comprises 0111 y an executive oficcr, a secretary, a fillng clcrk and an ofice messcngcr. Our volui~teers take the placc of a hcaw payroll.

ABOVE ALL, our a i m is to lead the indigenous pcoplc of East Africa to rcalise tllc value of their wildlife, and its habitat, so that thcy ]nay come actively to conserve it: thansclvcs. Wc strive to raise funds and to havc tnobjlc f1111l u~lits, with Afrian Icc- turcrs, pcrrl~aneiltZy touring the sc11001s and country villages.

Hdp us now to cotltinuc thrs vital and rewarding task by joining the Society and becoming orie of us. As a ~ncrnbcr, you will know that you are playing an exciting part in thc coilservation of East Africa" s l i ~ i ~ u c hcritagc-Wildlife.

Addrcss your subscription, please, to thc Executivc Oficer, East African Wildlife Society, Box 201 10, Nairobi, Kenya.

Annual Subscriptions 1 Life Membership Fees Supporting f 10 or S28.00 Onnor E l 0 0 or $280.00 llotiblc (H~r~hand

arid Wik) Sh. 501- S7.M C:c\rpnratr f 50 $140.00

Ordimw Sh. 301- S4.50 rilj R q u I ~ r t25 $70.00

M'A R L)II:V A. Dorr~En.s-Jorrr.r i ~ j ? 1. 11111iI ~orly t l t t h y t ~ ~ r ~ ~ c ~ p o t t , ~ i / ~ I ~ ~ for .~zlt,- pr t t~n l rn~ rhe Wltirt, Hl~irm n/' rhr Rrltia 1)isrrirr of rbc Nile. T/w pwokcr wur j i t t f ~ t t w d \)y t11e IVorhf W!ldh'f(l Frtttd u ~ ~ i i admitis rereti t ) ~ r l : ~ El~vt Africirn Wtliili{r Society. Wifli Mr. Do~r~Fn.~--Jnner fire s wo t~rmrher.~ q f ?/re Ut#ird S ~ U I P T Dvptir!~nuni oj tl~t, lnr~~*ior Fi.~h and H'f!d!ve Spr~+ce, D, H'. Rice ctttd.{. R. A7itrv.

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The Society's Notes

'

UGANDA NATIONAL PARKS: With m a t regret, wc an- nounce the resignation crf Col. C. D. Trimmcr. DSO. For many years Dimtor of Uganda's National Parks. Wc understand rhar he is likely to leavc East Africa in May.

His depanure will be a vcry reat loss to the conservation world of these countries.

CORMORANT: on January 26th this par. Mr. John Wil!iams, of the Cnryndon Museum, cnltecred an adult male and female specimen of cormorant hitherto unknown in East Afrim.

Further rcferencc is rnadc to this in Tony Irwin's nOleF on pagc 17: full scientific detaifs will k pubrished in thc bullctin of thc British Ornithologists Club.

WTLDLIFE MANAGEMENT: An extract from a recent monthly report of Dr. Hugh Lamprey. the Principal of the College of Wildlife Management. near Moshi, Tanganpika:

"This 15-day field trip achicved far mow than zve had planned and was especially valuablc because i t cIosely resembled a normal Game Wartien3 sarari. with aJI its varied and interesting exprienees.

The main objects of this exercise were:

1. To show the cadets the Taranpire Game Reserve, where u four-year study had been carried out by the Game Biologist (myself) and where. consequently. something was k n n m or the ecology.

This introduction was intende3 tn shnw the cadets the kind of survey which the C ~ l l c v wili be carrying out in the main working area-the Mkon~azi Game Reserve--and the results o f such a surwy.

2, To visit Game Sanctuaries oF different legal status and to explain and demonstrate their ditkrent runctions."

Arrican Wardens in training for the Game Department and National Parks of East Africa are receivinz much valuable instruction at thc Col l rs.

RETURN VISIT: Mr. Udall. Unlted States Secretary of the Interior, returned 10 Kenya in Deccrnber-this time as President Johnson's personal ambassador ts the Kenya Independence Celebrations.

Thfiugh his stay in Kenya was limited to fivc days, hc round the time to visit the Shinlba Hills and-iogerhcr with Mr. Frank Minnt. the Smiety"~ resident United Slates representative in Kenya-l had thc m t pleasure of accompanying Mr. and Mrs. Udall and Mr. Udall's secretary, Mr. Reston.

A night, was spent in camp in the hills.

OUTWARD BOUND SCHOOL: l a s t year, Dr. Gnirnek madc a gram to pmrnrrc conservation intercs~s among thc young men attending courses a1 the Outward Bound Mountam School, at Laitok~tok. Your Society'$ representative shqwed colnured slides and gave a talk ta the last Junior Course. followcd by two days in the field. much rrT i t nn root with the students.

Essays are written and the prize awarded h r the two students proving themselves the keencst conservationists is a visit to Europe as Dr. Grzimek's guests.

'SERENGETI SHALL NOT DIE' Talking of Dr. Gniniek rcminds us thar a paper-back cdition or his famous book will be avaitaMe ror sale in the Society's oilice rrom April at a price of Shs. 7E5nc. (local postage 40 East African cents; overseas 60 cenls).

ARABIAN ORYX: In March, KenyaS Chief Gan~c Warden. Majot tan Grimwood, plans 10 return to Riyadh, in Saudi Arabia, tc) collect a further four Arabian Oryx. They will be taken by Major Grirnwocxl to Naples Zoo,

hcrc they will bc quarantined beforc going on to join those already in Arizona.

The Oryx are the genemu. gih of King Saud, of Saudi Arabia.

NGONG FENCE: Tie wirc from which the mesh for this fence is lo bc nrade will shortly k shipped to Kenya as the magnanimous gift of the West German Government For enmmhing locally. Although tlrc Fcnce line traces are about ro be bultdo;?ed. and it i s huped that the &ginning of fence- building is not that far nK, we atill lack the Funds lo coinplctc the job.

WHITE RHmO : The Board o f Trustees or the World WiIdliFc Fund havc authnrised s~vinptr rrom thc f20.000 grant For the preservalicn of the White Rliino to be uscd to capture those rhino in the West Madi district which cannot be safeguarded and to transfer them to the safety of a Uganda National Park, probably the Murchison Falls. The operation is now bcglnn~ng.

WILDLIFE SOCIETY AGM: The Annual General Meeting trT the East A h c a n Wildlife Socicty wlll bc held at the Norfolk H o d . Nairobi. at 5.15 p.m. on Friday, June 12th. fYM.

Members are reminded that

"Nutice of motion must besubmitted to the Secrelary ar least 14 days before the meeting.

'"I nominations for Vice-Prcs~dcnt. Chairman and members of the Council must be in writing. pmpssed and sectrndd by rull members of the Slwety. endorsed by the peperson so proposcd and seconded to thc cffcct that such person. i T elected, is willing to serve.

"Such numinalians. duly completed, must be forwarded to the Sccrctary a1 Icmt 14 days prier to the date of thc nlecting.

"No nominations will be accepted at the rnccting. The same procedurt shall be ndoptcd for the tri-annual nominations for President*'.

This beautiful budge, in green, white

and gold enamel, mounted on chrome,

is ovoiloble t o all poid-up members of

the East African Wildlife Society Shs. 251- (Shs. 27/50 : $4.0 Post free)

Send cheque with your order to I I the East African Wildlife Society

Box 201 10 Nairobi Kenya

L \ / /

CONTACT +~IAIR SAFARIS P.O. Box 3 171 - ARUSHA - Telephone 2423

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for professional and distinctive craftsmanship

We provide Safari Companies, and clients overseas,

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These heads result horn control cropping of herds

which must be undmaken at regdm intervals in order

to protea the animals from destroying their natural habitat.

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Savs Denis Mathews. it was

EAST AFRICA' T H E YEAR 1963 will go down in history as the most successful

ever known in the 15-year life of the tourist industry of East Africa, as it has seen an increase of some 16,W visitors above T 962's figure of 68,145-in fact, a new all-time record of 84.159.

This rise in visitor-traffic is not During the past two years, Ihe eyes

only the largest numerical increase the world have On East as its countries marched stcadily. s u ~ m s - ever recorded in One year' but fully and wirhout undue political strife

the p e r e n t a ~ e gain (of almost z4 towards Indepcndencc. Confid~nce in - -. . - - . . . per cent) is extrcrnely significant. their ruturn grew-and. wit11 that compared with the world-increasc confidence, a desirt to ~ c e them.

in tourism of 6 per cent.

~t supports the belief-tong-emp ha- Responsibility sired by the Association-that East Afr~ca is becoming a focal cenlre for I he discriminating traveller who has wearied of over-crowded cities and resorts and whose main dedrt: is to seek the natural thing of this world, set in a spaciousness which can only be found in AFn'ca.

The query of what the ncw Govern- mcnts of East Africa would do about their magnificent game heritage was ansrvered by the African leaders, who showed (both by forthright statements and definite action) that thcy regarded it as of primary importance.

This appears to be particularly applicable to United States citizens, They rightly accepted the respon- for the previous d r d of 8,698 sibility for conservation of wildtifc American visitors (attained in 1962) and wild areas and madc i t d e a r that was easily passed in 1963 with a total of the tourist w a ~ oF vital importance 1 1,50(,. and was welcome.

TINEST YEAR During 1963. plans were drawn u:, DENIS MATHEWS. OBE.

for a co-ordinated and comprehensive E,,er,,,iw OJ)irpr oJ Em, la increase accomrnoda'ion African Tnlrrist Trav~I Assorintion.

Parks and game 8 0 , 2013, hmirohi, welcotnc,r ~nqtriries lheir tracks and develop rind will help H~j#), jnfonrtorion,

loop-road communiction~.

tn addition, thcsc pfans made pro- vision for the protection of scenic and catchment areas which-whilst lying off most aT thc prcscnl tourist routes- and utilksarion of facilities in all areas must bc prc~crved for fvturc dcvclop- and wc must reniernbcr that, whilst rncnt. wildlife will wntinuc to be our main

Al l concerned in the tourist indusiry of Enst Africa havc aypreciated that if, by 1970. the number of visitors expected in East Africa ~ r e b l e ~ (bringing to thew countries some £24 milfion annually) then, similarly. we must provide tou t i s t accommodation on a corn~arablc scatc in thc same period.

The East African Governments took steps in 1963 to impmvc the ~irualion and prfvate enrerprise saw to iz r ha~ additinnal accommodation war made available in some of our cities.

tourist attraction, i l is by nu mcans thc onry one. More and morc visitors arc anxious to visit our coasrs, our scenic areas and to climb the mountain%.

Then: is a growing appreciation. too, or many other attractions, a wonderful variety of bird life. excellent frhing in the sea, tlrc grcnr lakes and the up- country streams. a wonderful sclectiwn or tlnwrring shrubs and Irees. sit- of archaelogical and anthropological Inre- rest. together w~th imcinatinp contrasts in cwry Aeld allied to a wperb climate.

The developrneni plans makc prc- Our job i s to help our guests se: vision for a steady annual Increase in East AMca, in all its infinite varfcty.

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b

Collectors' column

DRAMATIC COLQUR ERE'S a new, easy method of H supplementing your cdour-

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F r o m thausands offered, AFRICA- N A staff has selected eight colour- slides which range over two subjects - -lion, the King of Beast5,'and the Monarch of them all, the elephant- two of which are Fllustrated here.

Four of EACH of these real-life- colour studies have been packed, securely for travel, and will be sent , - -

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Other packs are being prepared- birds, reptiles, mammals, insects- and will be announced in this column in future issues of AFRICANA.

~ e & l your remittance (Sh. 21 - or I SUS 3, per pack) to: The Ar t Editor,

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