OF MYTHS, MEN AND THE BBQ

JUNE

2013

COTTAGE-READY WINESTHE PERFECT CASE

GONE FISHIN’WINE MATCHES FORFRESH CATCHES

CHRISTIAN BÉGIN INTERVIEW

OF MYTHS, MENAND THE BBQ

MAY 30 AND JUNE 13 NOT TO BE MISSED!

30 WINES FOR SUMMER

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CONTENTS JUNE 2013

30 newly arrived wines.

IN STORES

All prices are subject to change without notice.

PUBLISHER – SAQ Johanne Morrisseau

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CONTRIBUTORS – SAQÉric Béliveau, Liette Chaput, François Couture, Sophie Drouin, François Fortier, Josselin Gravel, Stéphane Langlois, Pierre Lauzon, Martin de Lottinville, Marie-Ève Meunier, Julie Perreault, Isabelle Plante, Justin Rouette, Veronica Ruiz, Alain Smith

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FISHING FORCOMPLEMENTS

P. 15

WINES FOR BARBECUESP. 12

CUVÉES FOR ACOTTAGE GETAWAY

P. 26

SAVOURING THEEASTERN TOWNSHIPSP. 34

ON THE COVER Summer is all about the cottage, the lake and barbecuing. Actor and TV host Christian Bégin brings his love of wine, food and wit to dissecting this most relaxing of seasons.

27

28

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18

GRILLING

BBQ MYTHSEpicure Christian Béginon men and barbecuing.

FRESH-CAUGHT BOUNTY

GONE FISHIN’Local catches and thewines that go with them.

COTTAGE LIFE

THE PERFECT CASE OF WINEReds, whites and sparklersfor all those laid-back lakefront meals.

WINE PROFILEAt-a-glance info on how a wine smells and tastes.

NEW ARRIVALSDetails on our speciallyselected new releases.

QUEBEC TERROIR

TASTE TOURExploring in and around Magog.

MAY 30 AND JUNE 13

June 2013 3

CYAN MAGENTA YELLOW BLACK

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SPREAD CELLIER 18” X 10,875”




SHARE THE

PLEASURE

OF DISCOVERY

THE CELLIER SPACE AT YOUR

SAQ SÉLECTION GUIDES YOU THROUGH

THE MOST BEAUTIFUL DISCOVERIES

YOU WILL FIND A

NEW ARRIVAL OF PRODUCTS

Every two weeks

In limited quantities

At aff ordable prices

COME DISCOVER AND SHARE ONLINE

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Christian Bégin’s well-known enthusiasm for wine has guests on his TV show ribbing him about it and fans frequently waylaying the Curieux Bégin host to offer him un p’tit vino.

IN STORES MAY 30 AND JUNE 13

“Men are supposed to be masters of the barbecue, but personally I’m pretty useless at it. Put me in the kitchen, though, and I’m not bad.” – Christian Bégin

The great thing about Italian wines is that they go so well with food. They tend to be high in natural acidity, which makes them refreshing on the palate and versatile on the dinner table. Le Macchiole’s Bolgheri Rosso 2010 is composed mainly of Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Served slightly chilled, it’s excellent with barbecued fare.

JUNE 13

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o not true! I’m a man and I’m far from being king of the barbecue. In fact, whenever I have visitors [at my

house] in Kamouraska in summer, I try to figure out which of them can man the grill instead of me, because if it’s me the results can be iffy. For the past three years, I’ve been involved in a fundraising auction for Les Violons du Roy, contributing a meal cooked by me and served at my house. This year, the winning bid for my dinner came from Normand Laprise,

owner of Toqué!, and Martin Picard of Pied de Cochon. If you ask me, Laprise orchestrated it purely for the fun of putting pressure on me. They’ll be joined by Charles-Antoine Crête, the chef at Toqué!, and David McMillan, co-owner of Joe Beef. In other words, there will be four chefs at my table – and outstanding ones at that.” Bégin will get help from some Argentinian friends, including Daniel Baldomir, chef-owner of Argentino restaurant, and the plan is to do a gaucho-style barbecue (see page 13).

S

MYTH No. 1

MEN ARE KINGS OF THE BBQ

Actor Christian Bégin embarks this autumn on his sixth season as host of the food-and-wine show Curieux Bégin. So when we got curious about some of the myths surrounding men, food and barbecuing, he seemed the perfect guy to ask.

MEN AND THE BBQ

“ITALY 2017

LE MACCHIOLE 2010, BOLGHERI ROSSO DOC$27.15 11098285, 750 ML, 14% ABV

NUMBER OF CASES: 150

The dedication and passion of owner Cinzia Merli and renowned winemaker Luca D’Attoma have made this property a Bolgheri benchmark. GRAPES: MERLOT, CABERNET FRANC, SYRAH

WA 88 WS 91

AROMASCHERRY, LICORICE, SWEET SPICES

BODY – MEDIUM-BODIED

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – EVIDENT

ACIDITY – MODERATE

June 2013 7

“Pretty much. I really like meat and I suppose that fits in with the image of the male and his brontosaurus! When I’m cooking and don’t have to impress guests, I can be totally carefree. Steak and fries? Why not? I have nothing to prove. Let me tell you, my braised beef is – what’s the word? – amazing. I have all kinds of ideas for side dishes and when it comes to food I can be very sophisticated, but I can also eat a barbecued steak without any green vegetables, no problem. But without vino? Now that would be much harder.”

“Steven Raichlen says a charcoal barbecue is best – and that’s what I have. It’s the one thing I remember from his book The Barbecue Bible.”– Christian Bégin

FRANCE 2020

CHÂTEAU PATACHE D’AUX CRU BOURGEOIS 2009, MÉDOC AOC$22.00 11338226, 750 ML, 13.5% ABV


This cru bourgeois property is a classic and year after year produces wines of exemplary quality – at friendly prices too. GRAPES: CABERNET SAUVIGNON, MERLOT, CABERNET FRANC, PETIT VERDOT

Named for 19th-century horse-drawn carriages known as pataches, Château Patache d’Aux is near Bégadan in the northern Médoc.

MYTH No. 2

MEN WANT MEAT AND POTATOES BD 15 GV ★★ JR 16.5

JUNE 13

AROMASCEDAR, BELL PEPPER, RIPE FRUIT, GRAPHITE


PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – EVIDENT


MEN AND THE BBQ (CONTINUED)

June 20138


MAY 30

Red Bordeaux is a great classic, beloved by many wine neophytes and connoisseurs alike. And the really good news is that the 2009s are rounder and less astringent than usual, which makes them more flexible with food. For example, you don’t have to have them with rare meat, as is recommended for more tannic wines. If you prefer your steak cooked medium, a 2009 Bordeaux will work just fine with it.

— Kler-Yann Bouteiller

FRANCE 2025

CHÂTEAU LABÉGORCE 2009, MARGAUX AOC$37.50 11396194, 750 ML, 14% ABV


The unification of Château Labégorce and Château Labégorce-Zédé could not be better represented than with this extraordinary vintage. GRAPES: CABERNET SAUVIGNON, MERLOT, PETIT VERDOT, CABERNET FRANC

STEAK-FRIENDLY WINES

T-bone steak never goes out of style. This one was marinated in coffee to accentuate the barrel-imparted roasted notes in the wine, and served with grilled red pepper and a sesame-spinach salad.

Full-bodied and flavourful, this Château Labégorce 2009 belies the perception that Margaux are the most feminine and delicate wines produced in Bordeaux’s Médoc area.

EASY GOURMETBarbecued T-bone

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SOMMELIER’S SUGGESTION

BD 15.5 JR 17

RVF 15.5 WA 90 WS 90

AROMASCEDAR, BLACKCURRANT, GRAPHITE, BLACKBERRY, ROASTED NOTES, VANILLA

BODY – FULL

PALATE – STRUCTURED

WOOD – EVIDENT


June 2013 9


“I suspect this comes from the days when men didn’t cook and would put hot sauce on everything so the dish would have some kind of flavour. And I think the myth persists. It goes hand in hand with the image of the guy eating chicken wings while watching a hockey game. For me personally, I like nuanced. I like the explosions of flavour in Indian or Asian cuisine, for example. I like it when you get all kinds of nuances in one mouthful. I like food with some swing to it.”

FRANCE 2018

DOMAINE TOUR SAINT-MICHEL FEMINESSANCE 2009, CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE AOC$54.00 11902755, 750 ML, 15% ABV


They say the Rhône Valley is teeming with new talent. One example is Mireille Porte, doing remarkable work since taking over from her father in 2007.GRAPES: GRENACHE, SYRAH

JR 16 WA 94 WS 93

“Hmm. I think it’s more that guys don’t like bland.”– Christian Bégin

The 2009 vintage of this wine from the southern Rhône’s Châteauneuf-du-Pape was greeted with a chorus of praise.

MYTH No. 3

MEN LIKE IT HOT


JUNE 13

AROMASINCENSE, RESIN, BLACK OLIVE, COOKED FRUIT, LAVENDER, LICORICE

BODY – FULL


WOOD – EVIDENT


June 201310

FRANCE 2018

DOMAINE ZIND-HUMBRECHT HERRENWEG DE TURCKHEIM GEWÜRZTRAMINER 2007, ALSACE AOC$30.25 11063904, 750 ML, 15.5% ABV


In this wine, sourced from a singular terroir, Gewürztraminer’s aromatic potential is magnified by Zind-Humbrecht’s superlative skills.GRAPE: GEWÜRZTRAMINER

I turn to my spice rack whenever powerful, aromatic Gewürztraminer comes into play. I’ll season shrimp skewers with a little ginger, or brush white meat with a mixture of honey and cinnamon. Gewürztraminer is a great solution for flavours with lots of character. Its generous mouthfeel and suave personality will soften the spiciness of Asian, Indian and other highly seasoned dishes every time. I even serve Gewürztraminer with dessert, specifically fresh strawberries with whipped cream to which I’ve added a few drops of rose water and a pinch of cardamom.


With its very pronounced aromas and full mouthfeel, Gewürztraminer is a charmer. It’s terrific with highly seasoned dishes.

EASY GOURMETGinger-shrimp skewers

This Gewürzt is produced by one of Alsace’s best-known wineries.

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SOMMELIER’S SUGGESTION

JUNE 13

AROMASLYCHEE, APRICOT, ROSE, GINGER, HONEY

BODY – FULL

PALATE – RICH

WOOD – UNOAKED

ACIDITY – DISCREET

SUGAR LEVEL – OFF DRY

June 2013 11

ITALY 2018

QUERCIABELLA 2010, CHIANTI CLASSICO DOCG$27.95 10277986, 750 ML, 13.5% ABV


Leading Tuscan property, biodynamic since 2000. The wine is proprietor Sebastiano Cossia Castiglioni’s flair and intuition in a bottle. Brilliant!GRAPES: SANGIOVESE, CABERNET SAUVIGNON

“True! When we were working on the book Curieux Bégin sur la route [Éditions La Presse], the food stylist concluded I was a ‘slapdasher’ rather than a ‘measurer.’ I do not follow the recipe and I don’t read the instructions. I think there are certain advantages to not following the recipe, the main one being variety. You never eat the same thing twice, with me!

When it’s delicious, it becomes a nice memory... You’d think that by not following the recipe, maple taffy, as an example, would never have been invented. But it may well have come about precisely because some man left the maple sap boiling for too long... I often go by instinct when I’m cooking. The results can vary from disastrous to awesome.”

“If I had a resto, I would probably call it ‘At Random’ or ‘Do You Dare?’” – Christian Bégin

A Chianti Classico just the way we like it, oh-so-Italian, brimming with charm and showing stunning fruit purity for the price.

MYTH No. 4

MEN NEVER FOLLOW THE RECIPE JR 15.5 WA 89

MAY 30


AROMASCHERRY, COOKED FRUIT, SPICES, LICORICE, CINNAMON, WOOD, ROASTED NOTES

BODY – FULL


WOOD – EVIDENT


June 201312


In Argentina, unlike in Quebec, you can grill outdoors year-round. And where Quebecers like to let flames lick at their meat occasionally, Argentinians would be appalled at the very idea. The asado, as the backyard barbecue is called there, involves cooking meat on a sturdy grill over white-hot wood-fire embers – never an open flame. This keeps meat tender and juicy. The other key to tenderness is that the meat is cut lengthwise into large pieces and cooked very slowly, for as long as two or three hours. Argentina is also famous for its parrillada, a mixed grill of beef, pork, chicken, sausage, blood pudding and offal. It’s one of the summer projects that Bégin is planning for his home in Kamouraska.

GRILLING À LA GAUCHOARGENTINA 2015

LA POSTA ANGEL MALBEC 2010, MENDOZA DOC$17.95 11910181, 750 ML, 13.5% ABV


Malbec grows at an altitude of nearly 1,000 metres in this vineyard, a joint venture of Laura Catena and the Paulucci family that was planted in the 1970s.GRAPE: MALBEC

WA 90

From Buenos Aires to the far corners of the pampas, the asado, or barbecue, is the mainstay of Argentinian cuisine.

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Gauchos dancing at La Bamba resort near San Antonio de Areco, Argentina.

La Posta is produced from carefully tended Malbec grown at a high elevation, and it shows: This is a juicy and concentrated cuvée, but it is filled with freshness, too, thanks to the natural acidity in the grapes. A hint (20 percent) of new wood brings added dimension to the wine.

DIRECT FROM ARGENTINA

MAY 30

AROMASPLUM, VIOLET, RASPBERRY JAM, COFFEE


PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – EVIDENT


June 2013 13

GONE FISHIN’


ay and June are the peak fishing season, when lakes and rivers call out most strongly to the angler in all of us. Outfitters are fully booked, cottages and fishing camps are hopping and out-of-office messages have been

pre-recorded. Even before your fishing trip, you have decided on and maybe bought a selection of white, red and rosé wines that ought to pair well with the bounty you expect to catch. Whether you return with walleye, trout or salmon, you can mix in our fish-cooking tips and ideas with your fish stories, no doubt making your colleagues’ mouths water. And unlike the length of the fish you caught, with our pairings there’s no need to embellish, because they’re already top-notch.

Talk about fresh from Spain: With their intense citrus notes, Rías Baixas are the perfect summer wines.

MAY 30

SPAIN BODEGAS LAN SANTIAGO RUIZ 2011, RIAS BAIXAS DO$23.40 11899605, 750 ML, 13% ABV


Located in the Galicia region, the Rías Baixas appellation enjoys more hours of sun and gets less precipitation than its neighbours.GRAPES: ALBARIÑO, LOUREIRO, CAIÑO, TREIXADURA, GODELLOPH

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The wine that goes best with a fillet of white fish or salmon trout is one with pronounced acidity that will respond to the salinity in the dish. I like to taste as I cook and that’s still the best advice I can give. Let’s say I’m cooking walleye and plan to accompany it with a wine made from the Albariño grape. Sipping the wine as I cook, I detect aromas of green apple plus orange and lime zest, prompting me to make adjustments to the dish to achieve the desired flavour harmony between the wine and the walleye. Similarly, I add slivered almonds tossed in melted salted butter to salmon trout, and serve with an arugula salad dressed simply with a little lemon-flavoured olive oil.


Walleye with slivered almonds, lime and orange zest, green-apple slices and a touch of grapefruit oil. The latter is easy to make: Simply soak grapefruit peel in oil for 30 minutes.

Made from grapes typical to Spain, this bracing Rías Baixas echoes wines produced from Sauvignon Blanc or Riesling. An excellent choice for the start of fishing season.

ACID TRIPSOMMELIER’S SUGGESTION

AROMASLEMON, PEACH, PEAR, MELON, SALINE NOTES

BODY – LIGHT

PALATE – DELICATE

WOOD – UNOAKED

ACIDITY – LIVELY

SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

June 2013 15


MAY 30

n summer, a.k.a. fishing season, salmon is often barbecued. This is a dish that pairs beautifully with an obviously acidic red wine redolent with

smoke and spices. Rub the salmon with pink peppercorns, put it on the barbecue, pour yourself a glass of wine and watch over the salmon, breathing in the sublime smoked aromas that will drift temptingly over to your neighbours’ backyards too. Or if it’s a steamy-hot day, gravlax with cranberries served on a bed of arugula lightly flavoured with lemon would be perfect. The final flourish for a flawless dish? Pepper freshly ground with a twist of the wrist.

FRANCE 2018

DOMAINE MOUTON 2010, GIVRY 1ER CRU CLOS JUS AOC$26.15 11940090, 750 ML, 13% ABV


This Givry property in the Côte Chalonnaise area is expertly helmed by Gérard Mouton and his son Laurent.GRAPE: PINOT NOIR

This Burgundy has a strong character. A Givry that marries the great finesse of its grape to the personality of its terroir.

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Of unsurpassed beauty, the Cascapedia River has its source in the Monts Chic-Chocs and empties into Chaleur Bay. Public property for more than 100 kilometres of its length, it’s considered one of the top 10 salmon-fishing rivers in the world for the generous size of its salmon. It also has brook trout.

This cuvée from the Côte Chalonnaise is a wonderful expression of Pinot Noir. Typicity, finesse, elegance.

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REELING IN THE SALMON

AROMASRASPBERRY, VIOLET, SPICES, GRAPHITE, SMOKE


PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – SUBTLE


June 201316

MAY 30

WINE REGION ACCESSIBLE BURGUNDY

• Burgundy for all What exactly does “accessible Burgundy” mean? Basically, any wines that do not come from the Côte d’Or (divided into the Côte de Beaune and the Côte de Nuits). The Mâconnais and the Côte Chalonnaise, for example, can be considered part of accessible and affordable Burgundy. Their appellations are less well known but include excellent terroirs, and it certainly doesn’t hurt that many of their wines are ready to be drunk sooner...

• The Mâconnais on everyone’s lips This has been the rising region for several years. It produces some red wines but Chardonnay accounts for 80 percent of plantings. Several reputable Côte d’Or winemakers have bought vineyards in the Mâconnais and make wines there. Among those who believed in the region’s potential from the get-go are the famed Bret Brothers, Jean-Philippe, Jean-Guillaume and Marc-Antoine, all in their thirties. Their wines, including the one showcased here, garner widespread acclaim.

• The Côte Chalonnaise shines British expert Jancis Robinson says the Côte Chalonnaise has two great assets: The wines are reliable, and they’re excellent quality for the price. Except for the Aligoté grape, used mainly in the Bouzeron commune, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir reign supreme here too. Four fine appellations to remember: Givry and Mercurey, which produce primarily reds, and Montagny and Rully, which make both reds and whites.

FRANCE 2016

BRET BROTHERS 2011, MÂCON-CHARDONNAY AOC$27.20 11900098, 750 ML, 12.5% ABV


This quality négociant firm has a close relationship with wine growers. To the Brets, each wine symbolizes one terroir and one vigneron. GRAPE: CHARDONNAY

Marc-Antoine (in white) and Jean-Guillaume Bret at their family winery in Vinzelles in the Mâconnais.

Côte de Beaune

Côte Chalonnaise

Mâconnais

Côte de Nuits

Chablis and Grand Auxerrois

Dijon

Auxerre

Mâcon

Burgundy

AROMASAPPLE, WHITE FLOWERS, HONEY, PEAR, HAY


PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – SUBTLE


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

COTTAGE-READY WINESChilling at the cottage, yet ready for any eventuality. That’s you, this summer, as long as you take along adaptable wines.


COTTAGE-READY WINES

o guarantee it will provide a flawless match every time – but the perfect case of wine will often do the trick when you’re at the lake and the nearest SAQ is kilometres away... You want

to prepare for just about any eventuality as you’re assembling this emergency reserve.

Ideally, it should contain several different types of wine, and at least two bottles of each: a sparkling (Champagne or other), a fairly light white (unoaked Sauvignon Blanc, Muscadet, Verdicchio, etc.), a more full-bodied white (unoaked Chardonnay, Marsanne, Riesling, etc.), a fairly light red (Pinot Noir from the Mâconnais, Cabernet Franc from the Loire, a young and fruity Barbera, a Gamay, etc.), a more robust red (Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Aglianico, Malbec, Nero d’Avola, Sangiovese, etc.) and, lastly, a wine to go with dessert or cheeses, or simply for sipping on its own while admiring the sunset (Muscat de Rivesaltes, port, Jurançon, Tokaji Aszú, icewine, etc.).

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PEOPLE, NOT PAIRINGS “People coming to dinner at my place always ask me what I’m planning to make, so they know what kind of wine to bring. And I always say to them: Bring whatever you feel like drinking, and I’ll enjoy it too. I spent two years working with François Chartier and I admire his expertise, but it didn’t do much to change my own approach. No doubt a matter of intellectual laziness and ignorance... He writes a lot of things about pairings and I respect all that science, but to me, who you’re drinking wine with is more important than what you’re drinking it with. And if a pairing is really worrying you, open a bottle of Champagne – it goes with everything!”

– Christian Bégin

FRANCE 2015

CHAMPAGNE TARLANT ZERO BRUT NATURE, CHAMPAGNE AOC$45.00 11902763, 750 ML, 12% ABV

NUMBER OF CASES: 150 (6 BOTTLES)

New to Quebec, this refreshing bubbly is from a small, dynamic family property that’s been making wine for 12 generations.GRAPES: CHARDONNAY, PINOT NOIR, PINOT MEUNIER

MAY 30

MAKING THE PERFECT CASE

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Christian Bégin is appearing all summer in the Théâtre Juste Pour Rire Bromont production Le prénom. Come autumn, he’ll be back with Les Éternels Pigistes troupe, performing in a play he penned, Après moi, at La Licorne theatre in Montreal.

AROMASHAZELNUT, FLOWERS, MILKY NOTES


PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – UNOAKED

ACIDITY – LIVELY

SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

BD 14 JR 16.5 RVF 15

WA 92 WS 89

June 2013 19

SPAIN 2023

BODEGAS ALEJANDRO FERNÁNDEZ TINTO PESQUERA CRIANZA 2009, RIBERA DEL DUERO DO $25.85 10273109, 750 ML, 14% ABV


A gem from Alejandro Fernández, the man who lifted Ribera del Duero into the ranks of Spain’s best wine regions. GRAPE: TEMPRANILLO

BEHIND THE WINE ALEJANDRO FERNÁNDEZ

BackstoryFrom a modest start selling farm equipment to wineries, Alejandro Fernández first made his name as a winemaker in the mid-1980s. The 1982 vintage of his cuvée Janus was lauded by American guru Robert Parker as the Pétrus of Spain. Fernández, now 80, has enjoyed an excellent reputation ever since.

Name confusionPeople tend to refer to Fernández as “Mr. Pesquera,” Pesquera being the name of the wine group he founded. But the slip-up is understandable and not

Wines Fernández’s wines, especially those from the Ribera del Duero appellation, age very nicely. Many are still fresh even after 10 years in the cellar.

Philosophy “I like to harvest the grapes when they’re ‘young’ and high in natural acidity,” he says. In other words, not for him overripe grapes and jammy aromas and flavours.

AT A GLANCEFrom humble beginnings, Grupo Pesquera now operates four wineries (bodegas), cultivates almost 700 hectares of vines and produces some two-million bottles a year.American oak is a favourite of Fernández, who says it adds a nice softness to wines like his that are made mainly from Tempranillo.Ribera del Duero wines are generally more full-bodied and tannic than Rioja wines.

JUNE 13

Alejandro Fernández with his daughter Eva, the Grupo Pesquera winemaker.

entirely inappropriate, as he remains the guiding force behind the prestigious firm.

AROMASLICORICE, PLUM, ROASTED NOTES, SPICES, LEATHER, MINT

BODY – FULL


WOOD – EVIDENT



aella, named for the large pan in which it’s made, is the ultimate communal meal: Everyone around the table helps themselves to their favourite elements of this colourful Iberian concoction of mixed seafood, meat and vegetables. A refreshing white wine is often the

best accompaniment. But in the heat of summer, a meal of paella can make diners feel like they’re at a delightful Spanish party and, depending on the ingredients used, paella can easily be paired with a red wine. “Think of a chorizo paella, with grilled, glazed pork, large grilled shrimp, roasted pimentones, currants and yellow rice with cloves,” suggests sommelier Kler-Yann Bouteiller. With their roasted notes, he says, Rioja wines in general go very well with the grilled flavours and the taste of the cloves in this kind of paella. And Orben, a Tempranillo, finds an alter ego in the pimentones, while the currants in the paella complement Orben’s fruity, sunny side in addition to softening the spiciness of the sausages.

SPAIN 2019

BODEGAS ARTEVINO ORBEN 2007, RIOJA DOC$32.75 11903352, 750 ML, 14% ABV


Stylistically straddling both the modern and the traditional, this Tempranillo will charm fans of Rioja wines. GRAPES: TEMPRANILLO, GRACIANO

JUNE 13

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Rioja Alavesa in the northern Ebro Valley is an ideal grape-growing zone, influenced by both the Mediterranean and the Atlantic. Sheltered by the Cantabrian Mountains, Tempranillo ripens slowly in the region. The most chameleon-like of Spanish grapes delivers elegant and restrained wines in Rioja Alavesa.

SPANISH-STYLE SHARING

P

COTTAGE-READY WINES (CONTINUED)

EASY GOURMETPaella with chorizo, glazed pork and seafood

WA 90+

AROMASWOOD, LEATHER, ROASTED NOTES, PLUM

BODY – FULL

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – EVIDENT


June 2013 21

INGREDIENTS

1 rack of pork (4 ribs) (about 900 g [2 lb])

15 mL (1 tbsp) olive oil

1 onion, cut into 8 wedges

1 small basket (pint) raspberries

4 slices bacon

4 pinches Chinese five-spice powder

1 bunch red-stemmed Swiss chard

5 mL (1 tsp) butter

20 mL (4 tsp) hazelnut oil

30 mL (2 tbsp) chives

Salt and freshly ground pepper

Sweet-and-Sour Sauce

125 mL (1/2 cup) maple syrup

60 mL (1/4 cup) raspberry vinegar

2.5 mL (1/2 tsp) soy sauce

DIRECTIONS 4 SERVINGS


ROASTED PORK RACK WITH SWEET-AND-SOUR RASPBERRY SAUCE

STEP 3Put the bacon slices on a baking sheet, brush with the reserved 15 mL (1 tbsp) of sweet-and- sour sauce and sprinkle with the five-spice powder. Cook in the oven for 12 minutes or until lightly crisp. Cut into small pieces.

STEP 4Separate the Swiss chard stems from the leaves. Dice the stems and chop the leaves. In a skillet on medium, melt the butter and cook the stems for three minutes. Add the leaves and continue cooking until tender. Season and add the hazelnut oil, bacon bits and chives.

STEP 5Cut the rack of pork and serve it with the Swiss chard and sweet-and-sour raspberry sauce.

Note: The Swiss chard can be substituted with beets cooked in a foil packet.

STEP 1Sauce: In a saucepan, boil the maple syrup and raspberry vinegar and let reduce by half. Stir in the soy sauce and leave to cool in the saucepan. Reserve 15 mL (1 tbsp) of the sauce.

STEP 2Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F). Season the rack of pork with salt and pepper. In an ovenproof skillet on medium high, heat the oil and sear the pork on all sides. Skim off any excess fat and add the onion and the sweet- and-sour sauce. Baste the meat well and cook in the oven (uncovered, basting several times) for 20 minutes, or to an internal temperature of 65°C (150°F) for medium. Remove the pork from the skillet, cover with aluminum foil and let rest for 10 minutes. Gently mix the raspberries into the sauce and set aside.

June 201322


CHILE 2015

MONTES ALPHA PINOT NOIR 2011, VALLE DE CASABLANCA DO$22.20 11602921, 750 ML, 14.5% ABV


Maybe it’s the music playing in the cellars, or the angel on the label, but this wine definitely rivals many great Pinot Noirs. GRAPE: PINOT NOIR

PINOT NOIR is widely known as a capricious grape, difficult to grow. But when carefully tended and vinified by a good vigneron, it’s utterly delicious. What’s the difference between New World Pinots and their prestigious Burgundy counterparts? The student hasn’t necessarily surpassed the master, but Pinots from places like Chile and California often have more body and richness than Burgundian ones. For example, Chile’s Casablanca district, to the west of Santiago, and California’s Anderson Valley, about 200 kilometres north of San Francisco, have relatively cool terroirs in which Pinot Noir grapes ripen slowly and judiciously. At the table, Pinot Noir, generally not very tannic, is an impeccable fit for chicken, pork and veal.

UNITED STATES 2018

LA CREMA PINOT NOIR 2009, ANDERSON VALLEY AVA$44.75 11910051, 750 ML, 14.5% ABV


California’s best Pinot Noirs are sourced from cooler coastal vineyards such as those in the Anderson Valley.GRAPE: PINOT NOIR

MAY 30 JUNE 13

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WA 90 WA 90

AROMASTOBACCO, CHERRY, RASPBERRY, COFFEE, PLUM, SMOKE


PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – EVIDENT


AROMASDARK FRUIT, EUCALYPTUS, HERBS


PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – EVIDENT


June 2013 23

FRANCE 2015

PIERRE GAILLARD LA DERNIÈRE VIGNE SYRAH 2011, VIN DE PAYS DES COLLINES RHODANIENNES IGP$21.45 10678325, 750 ML, 12.5% ABV


Pierre Gaillard’s daughter Jeanne has been making this Syrah since 2008, in an area of the northern Rhône that lies south of Lyon. GRAPE: SYRAH

SUNNY WINESMAY 30


The village of Malleval, near Ampuis and the famed Côte-Rôtie appellation. Malleval is home base for producer Pierre Gaillard, who owns a total of 77 hectares of vines, some in this region south of Lyon and some in Languedoc and Roussillon.

RHÔNE While the northern Rhône Valley does not have the Mediterranean climate you find in the south and in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, for instance, it gets lots of sunshine and the summers are fairly hot. In reds, the Syrah grape is particularly happy here, yielding wines that can be surprisingly elegant and delicate. Pierre Gaillard’s La dernière Vigne, with an alcohol content of just 12.5 percent, is one of them. PH

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The Rhône, Languedoc and Corsica are spotlighted in this Cellier New Arrivals collection. Here’s a look at the wines from these warm, sun-kissed regions.

GV ★★★★

AROMASVIOLET, SWEET SPICES, BLACKBERRY, RASPBERRY


PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – SUBTLE


June 201324


FRANCE 2016

DOMAINE D’ALZIPRATU CUVÉE FIUMESECCU 2011, CORSE CALVI AOC$19.45 11095658, 750 ML, 13.5% ABV


A blend of grapes typical to Corsica, France’s sunniest region, this cuvée has a refreshing palate that makes it perfect for patio season.GRAPES: NIELLUCCIO, SCIACARELLO, GRENACHE

FRANCE 2014

DOMAINE ALAIN CHABANON CAMPREDON 2010, LANGUEDOC AOC$23.75 11909586, 750 ML, 13% ABV


A disciple of Madiran star Alain Brumont, Alain Chabanon is today running one of the best wineries in Languedoc. GRAPES: SYRAH, MOURVÈDRE, GRENACHE

JUNE 13 MAY 30

LANGUEDOC How long ago it was that Languedoc was equated with quantity rather than quality! Although in general the wines still tend toward dark and concentrated, the advent of a new generation of winemakers in the early 1980s proved to be a turning point for the area. Incidentally, what is now the Languedoc AOC was until May 2007 the Coteaux du Languedoc AOC.

CORSE Reds, rosés, dry whites and sweet whites are all produced on the “Isle of Beauty.” Fiumeseccu is from the Calvi district, near the coast in the northwest, between Bastia and Ajaccio, where the terroir of granite and layers of clay is among the oldest on Corsica.

GV ★★★★ AROMASSTRAWBERRY, SPICES, BLACKCURRANT, VIOLET, LICORICE, GARRIGUE, BLACK OLIVE


PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – UNOAKED


AROMASSPICES, LICORICE, HERBS, PEACH PIT


PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – UNOAKED


June 2013 25


PORTUGAL 2017

QUINTA DA PELLADA ÁLVARO CASTRO RESERVA 2008, DÂO DOC$25.20 11902106, 750 ML, 13% ABV


This cuvée by Álvaro Castro has pretty much set a new standard for the Dão region. Unbeatable quality and pleasure for the price.GRAPES: TOURIGA NACIONAL, TINTA RORIZ, JAEN

ith summer coming on, there will be more eating alfresco, and that means it’s particularly important to pay attention to wine temperature. A few degrees more or less can change everything! You really don’t want a wine – such as the Portuguese Dão

shown here – to be served too warm, because that accentuates the alcohol content and prevents expression of the fruit. As for keeping wine cold, the best solution is still an ice bucket filled with water and ice cubes. Otherwise, the fridge or even the freezer will come to the rescue. Speaking of which, if anyone at the table is shocked because they think putting wine in the freezer will ruin it, go ahead and laugh out loud: It’s time this urban legend was debunked once and for all.

Barbecued chicken on skewers is a no-brainer, casual fare that’s easy to make. Taking inspiration from the accompanying Portuguese wine, add a dash of piri piri, lime, lemon and herbs to chicken pieces brushed with olive oil, and then barbecue them slowly over indirect heat.

EASY GOURMETChicken on skewers

JUNE 13

W

COOL SOLUTIONS

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AROMASROASTED NOTES, RIPE FRUIT, MINERAL NOTES, VIOLET


PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – EVIDENT


June 201326

Curious about the specific characteristics of a wine you’re thinking of buying? Our handy wine profile sections give you

that information at a glance.

WINE PROFILE


SUBTLE EVIDENT

LIGHT MEDIUM

DELICATE GENEROUS STRUCTURED

DRY

DISCREET

DRY OFF DRY

LIGHT MEDIUM

SUBTLE

DELICATE GENEROUS

DISCREET DISCRÈTEMODERATE MODERATE

DRY SWEET

DELICATE GENEROUS

LIGHT MEDIUM FULL

SUBTLE EVIDENT

AROMASTOASTED ALMOND, WHITE FRUIT, BRIOCHE

AROMASDRIED FLOWERS, WILD STRAWBERRIES, ORANGE PEEL

WHERE IT ALL STARTS... THE MAIN AROMAS.

IMPRESSION OF ACIDITY. APPLIES TO REDS, WHITES AND ROSÉS.

STRUCTURE, AMOUNT OF BODY, PRESENCE THE WINE HAS IN THE MOUTH.

ACID

ITY

SUGA

R LE

VEL

BODY

PALA

TEW

OOD

LIVELY MODERATE LIVELY LIVELY

SWEET OFF DRY

FULL FULL

RICH RICH

PRONOUNCED EVIDENT PRONOUNCED PRONOUNCED IMPRESSION OF WOOD FLAVOUR. CAN ALSO BE ENTIRELY ABSENT (UNOAKED).

IMPRESSION OF TEXTURE IN THE MOUTH.

IMPRESSION OF SWEETNESS. APPLIES TO WHITES AND ROSÉS, AND VERY OCCASIONALLY REDS.

June 2013 27

P. 17FRANCE 2016

BRET BROTHERS 2011, MÂCON-CHARDONNAY AOC$27.20 11900098, 750 ML, 12.5% ABV


This quality négociant firm has a close relationship with wine growers. To the Brets, each wine symbolizes one terroir and one vigneron. PAIRING: WALLEYE AMANDINE

GRAPE: CHARDONNAY

AROMASAPPLE, WHITE FLOWERS, HONEY, PEAR, HAY


PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – SUBTLE


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

P. 19FRANCE 2015

CHAMPAGNE TARLANT ZERO BRUT NATURE, CHAMPAGNE AOC$45.00 11902763, 750 ML, 12% ABV


New to Quebec, this refreshing bubbly is from a small, dynamic family property that’s been making wine for 12 generations.PAIRING: SCALLOP CEVICHE

GRAPES: CHARDONNAY, PINOT NOIR, PINOT MEUNIER

AROMASHAZELNUT, FLOWERS, MILKY NOTES


PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – UNOAKED

ACIDITY – LIVELY

SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

AROMASLEMON, PEACH, PEAR, MELON, SALINE NOTES

BODY – LIGHT

PALATE – DELICATE

WOOD – UNOAKED

ACIDITY – LIVELY

SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

P. 15SPAIN BODEGAS LAN SANTIAGO RUIZ 2011, RIAS BAIXAS DO$23.40 11899605, 750 ML, 13% ABV


Located in the Galicia region, the Rías Baixas appellation enjoys more hours of sun and gets less precipitation than its neighbours.PAIRING: AS AN APERITIF WITH FRIED CALAMARI

GRAPES: ALBARIÑO, LOUREIRO, CAIÑO, TREIXADURA, GODELLO

P. 13ARGENTINA 2015

LA POSTA ANGEL MALBEC 2010, MENDOZA DOC$17.95 11910181, 750 ML, 13.5% ABV


Malbec grows at an altitude of nearly 1,000 metres in this vineyard, a joint venture of Laura Catena and the Paulucci family that was planted in the 1970s.PAIRING: FLANK STEAK WITH RED-WINE-AND-SHALLOT MARINADE

GRAPE: MALBEC

AROMASPLUM, VIOLET, RASPBERRY JAM, COFFEE


PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – EVIDENT


UNITED STATES 2016

CHATEAU ST. JEAN LA PETITE ETOILE FUMÉ BLANC 2010, RUSSIAN RIVER AVA$29.95 11923020, 750 ML, 14.6% ABV


Drawn from a vineyard site called “Petite Etoile,” this delightful California white benefits from the site’s morning fogs and afternoon breezes.PAIRING: WHITE FISH WITH SESAME OIL

GRAPE: SAUVIGNON BLANC

AROMASWOOD, TOASTED SESAME, CITRUS FRUIT


PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – PRONOUNCED


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

MAY 30

BD 14JR 16.5RVF 15WA 92WS 89

WA 90

June 201328

BD : Bettane & Desseauve (out of 20)GV : Guide du vin, Nadia Fournier (out of ★★★★★)JR : Jancis Robinson (out of 20)RVF : La Revue du vin de France (out of 20)WA : Wine Advocate, Robert Parker (out of 100)WS : Wine Spectator (out of 100)

SOURCES CITED:

ICON LEGEND

hold until the year indicated

WHITE WINE RED WINE

drink nowdrink now through the year indicated

The potential longevity of a wine when stored in the proper conditions. Note that this is simply a guideline, with the exceptions – and they are numerous! – proving the rule.

Favourite WINE PROFILE CHART

Presence and intensity of acidity, body, wood and other elements at the time of tasting.

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P. 24FRANCE 2015

PIERRE GAILLARD LA DERNIÈRE VIGNE SYRAH 2011, VIN DE PAYS DES COLLINES RHODANIENNES IGP$21.45 10678325, 750 ML, 12.5% ABV


Pierre Gaillard’s daughter Jeanne has been making this Syrah since 2008, in an area of the northern Rhône that lies south of Lyon. PAIRING: ORZO SALAD WITH TUNA, SUN-DRIED TOMATOES AND BLACK OLIVES

GRAPE: SYRAH

AROMASVIOLET, SWEET SPICES, BLACKBERRY, RASPBERRY


PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – SUBTLE


P. 25FRANCE 2016

DOMAINE D’ALZIPRATU CUVÉE FIUMESECCU 2011, CORSE CALVI AOC$19.45 11095658, 750 ML, 13.5% ABV


A blend of grapes typical to Corsica, France’s sunniest region, this cuvée has a refreshing palate that makes it perfect for patio season.PAIRING: GRILLED CHICKEN WITH SUN-DRIED TOMATOES

GRAPES: NIELLUCCIO, SCIACARELLO, GRENACHE

AROMASSPICES, LICORICE, HERBS, PEACH PIT


PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – UNOAKED


P. 16FRANCE 2018

DOMAINE MOUTON 2010, GIVRY 1ER CRU CLOS JUS AOC$26.15 11940090, 750 ML, 13% ABV


This Givry property in the Côte Chalonnaise area is expertly helmed by Gérard Mouton and his son Laurent.PAIRING: SPICE-CRUSTED TUNA

GRAPE: PINOT NOIR

AROMASRASPBERRY, VIOLET, SPICES, GRAPHITE, SMOKE


PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – SUBTLE


FRANCE 2015

OLIVIER RAVOIRE 2010, VACQUEYRAS AOC$20.90 11902771, 750 ML, 14.5% ABV


This négociant firm works throughout the Rhône region. Olivier Ravoire has performed brilliantly since taking over from his father in 2003. PAIRING: HERBED LAMB KEBABS

GRAPES: GRENACHE NOIR, SYRAH, MOURVÈDRE

AROMASCANDIED CHERRY, FLOWERS, LICORICE, GARRIGUE


BOUCHE – GENEROUS

WOOD – SUBTLE


UNITED STATES 2017

FOPPIANO VINEYARDS PETITE SIRAH 2010, RUSSIAN RIVER AVA$25.40 00611780, 750 ML, 14.9% ABV


From its signature grape Petite Sirah, California’s Foppiano delivers a seductive wine with explosive dark fruit and an imposing structure.PAIRING: GAME BIRD WITH FRUIT SAUCE

GRAPE: PETITE SIRAH

AROMASSPICES, CEDAR, CASSIS LIQUEUR, BLACKBERRY

BODY – FULL


WOOD – PRONOUNCED


MAY 30

GV ★★★★ GV ★★★★ GV ★★★

June 2013 29

MAY 30

SPAIN 2016

BODEGAS O. FOURNIER FINCA EL PINAR SPIGA 2008, RIBERA DEL DUERO DO$32.00 11902958, 750 ML, 14.5% ABV


A modern cuvée by an internationally renowned producer, sourced from a region that’s in vogue. Decanting will soften the tannins.PAIRING: CHEESEBURGER WITH SMOKED BACON

GRAPE: TEMPRANILLO

AROMASVIOLET, LAVENDER, DARK FRUIT, OAK


PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – PRONOUNCED


SPAIN 2019

BODEGAS ABANICO LOS COLMILLOS 2009, TORO DO$28.20 11903475, 750 ML, 14.5% ABV


This powerful, structured wine was matured in French oak barrels for 16 months. Decanting is a must!PAIRING: RACK OF LAMB WITH MUSHROOM SAUCE

GRAPE: TEMPRANILLO

AROMASFOREST FLOOR, SPICES, DARK FRUIT, HAZELNUT, OAK

BODY – FULL


WOOD – EVIDENT


P. 12ITALY 2018

QUERCIABELLA 2010, CHIANTI CLASSICO DOCG$27.95 10277986, 750 ML, 13.5% ABV


Leading Tuscan property, biodynamic since 2000. The wine is proprietor Sebastiano Cossia Castiglioni’s flair and intuition in a bottle. Brilliant!PAIRING: SMOKED-MEAT PIZZA

GRAPES: SANGIOVESE, CABERNET SAUVIGNON

AROMASCHERRY, COOKED FRUIT, SPICES, LICORICE, CINNAMON, WOOD, ROASTED NOTES

BODY – FULL


WOOD – EVIDENT


P. 9FRANCE 2025

CHÂTEAU LABÉGORCE 2009, MARGAUX AOC$37.50 11396194, 750 ML, 14% ABV


The unification of Château Labégorce and Château Labégorce-Zédé could not be better represented than with this extraordinary vintage. PAIRING: GRILLED T-BONE

GRAPES: CABERNET SAUVIGNON, MERLOT, PETIT VERDOT, CABERNET FRANC

AROMASCEDAR, BLACKCURRANT, GRAPHITE, BLACKBERRY, ROASTED NOTES, VANILLA

BODY – FULL


WOOD – EVIDENT


P. 23UNITED STATES 2018

LA CREMA PINOT NOIR 2009, ANDERSON VALLEY AVA$44.75 11910051, 750 ML, 14.5% ABV


California’s best Pinot Noirs are sourced from cooler coastal vineyards such as those in the Anderson Valley.PAIRING: CHICKEN BROCHETTES WITH HOISIN SAUCE

GRAPE: PINOT NOIR

AROMASTOBACCO, CHERRY, RASPBERRY, COFFEE, PLUM, SMOKE


PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – EVIDENT


JR 15.5WA 89

WA 92+ WA 92+ WA 90BD 15.5JR 17RVF 15.5WA 90WS 90

June 201330

JUNE 13

P. 11FRANCE 2018

DOMAINE ZIND-HUMBRECHT HERRENWEG DE TURCKHEIM GEWÜRZTRAMINER 2007, ALSACE AOC$30.25 11063904, 750 ML, 15.5% ABV


In this wine, sourced from a singular terroir, Gewürztraminer’s aromatic potential is magnified by Zind-Humbrecht’s superlative skills.PAIRING: GINGER SALMON IN FOIL

GRAPE: GEWÜRZTRAMINER

AROMASLYCHEE, APRICOT, ROSE, GINGER, HONEY

BODY – FULL

PALATE – RICH

WOOD – UNOAKED



FRANCE 2014

JEAN-PAUL DAUMEN 2010, CÔTES DU RHÔNE AOC$19.00 11509857, 750 ML, 14% ABV


Jean-Paul Daumen runs both Domaine de la Vieille Julienne and the dynamic négociant firm Daumen, founded in 2010. PAIRING: GRILLED PORK CHOPS

GRAPES: GRENACHE, SYRAH, CINSAULT, MOURVÈDRE

AROMASCANDIED CHERRY, COCOA, BLACK PEPPER


PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – SUBTLE


FRANCE 2019

DOMAINE LATOUR-GIRAUD CUVÉE CHARLES MAXIME 2010, MEURSAULT AOC$44.75 11901808, 750 ML, 13% ABV


A distinctive and elegant cuvée, produced by a well-known family winery from vines grown on the three best plots of land in Meursault. PAIRING: TROUT IN BEURRE BLANC

GRAPE: CHARDONNAY

AROMASTOASTED HAZELNUT, ASIAN PEAR, FLOWERS, SMOKE, MINERAL NOTES

BODY – FULL

PALATE – RICH

WOOD – EVIDENT


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

SPAIN CELLER ACÚSTIC 2011, MONTSANT DO$21.20 11902077, 750 ML, 14% ABV


Per the philosophy of owner-winemaker Albert Jané, this “acoustic” wine is produced traditionally, with little human intervention, from organic grapes.PAIRING: SAUTÉED SHRIMPS WITH MANGO

GRAPES: GRENACHE BLANC, GRENACHE GRIS, MACABEO, XAREL-LO

AROMASALMOND, HAZELNUT, CAMOMILE, FLOWERS, MINERAL NOTES


PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – SUBTLE


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

ITALY NINO FRANCO PRIMO 2011, PROSECCO DI VALDOBBIADENE DOCG$21.90 11903088, 750 ML, 10.5% ABV


Produced using the cuve close method, this sparkling wine gets its appealing fruitiness from grapes grown on the appellation’s highest hills. PAIRING: WELL CHILLED AS AN APERITIF WITH SEAFOOD APPETIZERS

GRAPE: PROSECCO (GLERA)

AROMASCHALK, MELON, CITRUS FRUIT, FLOWERS, PINEAPPLE

BODY – LIGHT

PALATE – DELICATE

WOOD – UNOAKED



WA 88WS 88 JR 16.5

June 2013 31

JUNE 13

P. 23CHILE 2015

MONTES ALPHA PINOT NOIR 2011, VALLE DE CASABLANCA DO$22.20 11602921, 750 ML, 14.5% ABV


Maybe it’s the music playing in the cellars, or the angel on the label, but this wine definitely rivals many great Pinot Noirs. PAIRING: SWEET-AND-SOUR GRILLED PORK

GRAPE: PINOT NOIR

AROMASDARK FRUIT, EUCALYPTUS, HERBS


PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – EVIDENT


P. 26PORTUGAL 2017

QUINTA DA PELLADA ÁLVARO CASTRO RESERVA 2008, DÂO DOC$25.20 11902106, 750 ML, 13% ABV


This cuvée by Álvaro Castro has pretty much set a new standard for the Dão region. Unbeatable quality and pleasure for the price.PAIRING: CHARCUTERIE SELECTION

GRAPES: TOURIGA NACIONAL, TINTA RORIZ, JAEN



PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – EVIDENT


P. 25FRANCE 2014

DOMAINE ALAIN CHABANON CAMPREDON 2010, LANGUEDOC AOC$23.75 11909586, 750 ML, 13% ABV


A disciple of Madiran star Alain Brumont, Alain Chabanon is today running one of the best wineries in Languedoc. PAIRINGS: GRILLED SAUSAGES, EUROPEAN SANDWICH

GRAPES: SYRAH, MOURVÈDRE, GRENACHE

AROMASSTRAWBERRY, SPICES, BLACKCURRANT, VIOLET, LICORICE, GARRIGUE, BLACK OLIVE


PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – UNOAKED


P. 20SPAIN 2023

BODEGAS ALEJANDRO FERNÁNDEZ TINTO PESQUERA CRIANZA 2009, RIBERA DEL DUERO DO $25.85 10273109, 750 ML, 14% ABV


A gem from Alejandro Fernández, the man who lifted Ribera del Duero into the ranks of Spain’s best wine regions. PAIRING: GRILLED LAMB CHOPS WITH MINT COUSCOUS

GRAPE: TEMPRANILLO

AROMASLICORICE, PLUM, ROASTED NOTES, SPICES, LEATHER, MINT

BODY – FULL


WOOD – EVIDENT


P. 8FRANCE 2020

CHÂTEAU PATACHE D’AUX CRU BOURGEOIS 2009, MÉDOC AOC$22.00 11338226, 750 ML, 13.5% ABV


This cru bourgeois property is a classic and year after year produces wines of exemplary quality – at friendly prices too. PAIRING: FLANK STEAK WITH MONTREAL STEAK SPICE

GRAPES: CABERNET SAUVIGNON, MERLOT, CABERNET FRANC, PETIT VERDOT

AROMASCEDAR, BELL PEPPER, RIPE FRUIT, GRAPHITE


PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – EVIDENT


BD 15GV ★★

JR 16.5

WA 90

June 201332

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P. 10FRANCE 2018

DOMAINE TOUR SAINT-MICHEL FEMINESSANCE 2009, CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE AOC$54.00 11902755, 750 ML, 15% ABV


They say the Rhône Valley is teeming with new talent. One example is Mireille Porte, doing remarkable work since taking over from her father in 2007.PAIRING: HERBED LAMB AND BLACK OLIVES IN FOIL

GRAPES: GRENACHE, SYRAH

AROMASINCENSE, RESIN, BLACK OLIVE, COOKED FRUIT, LAVENDER, LICORICE

BODY – FULL


WOOD – EVIDENT


P. 21SPAIN 2019

BODEGAS ARTEVINO ORBEN 2007, RIOJA DOC$32.75 11903352, 750 ML, 14% ABV


Stylistically straddling both the modern and the traditional, this Tempranillo will charm fans of Rioja wines. PAIRING: MUSTARD PORK TENDERLOIN

GRAPES: TEMPRANILLO, GRACIANO

AROMASWOOD, LEATHER, ROASTED NOTES, PLUM

BODY – FULL

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – EVIDENT


UNITED STATES 2019

L’ECOLE NO 41 CABERNET SAUVIGNON 2009, COLUMBIA VALLEY AVA$37.25 10707093, 750 ML, 14.5% ABV


A nod to a historic school in Washington State’s district 41, the name of this wine also references French settlers who pioneered winemaking in the region. PAIRING: PORK FLANK STEAK WITH MUSHROOMS AND FIGS

GRAPE: CABERNET SAUVIGNON

AROMASCOCONUT, TOBACCO, PLUM, BLACKBERRY, VANILLA, ROASTED NOTES, SMOKE

BODY – FULL


WOOD – EVIDENT


ITALY 2020

CANTINA DEL PINO 2008, BARBARESCO DOCG$38.75 11910131, 750 ML, 14.5% ABV


Renato Vacca left the Produttori del Barbaresco co-operative to produce his own wines, which are decidedly modern in style. PAIRING: LEMON-HERB LAMB CHOPS

GRAPE: NEBBIOLO

AROMASFIG, ANISE, DRIED FLOWERS, TART RED FRUIT, CURCUMA

BODY – FULL


WOOD – EVIDENT

ACIDITY – LIVELY

P. 7ITALY 2017

LE MACCHIOLE 2010, BOLGHERI ROSSO DOC$27.15 11098285, 750 ML, 14% ABV


The dedication and passion of owner Cinzia Merli and renowned winemaker Luca D’Attoma have made this property a Bolgheri benchmark. PAIRING: GRILLED, SEASONED RED MEAT

GRAPES: MERLOT, CABERNET FRANC, SYRAH

AROMASCHERRY, LICORICE, SWEET SPICES


PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – EVIDENT


STÉPHANE LANGLOIS

ÉRIC BÉLIVEAU

JOSSELIN GRAVEL

These wine advisors were on the tasting committee

and helped select the CELLIER favourites.

Wine advisor Quartier Dix30 SAQ Sélection

Wine advisor De la Pointe SAQ Sélection

Wine advisorWestmount SAQ Sélection

WA 88WS 91

WA 90+ WS 89 JR 16.5WA 92

JR 16WA 94WS 93

June 2013 33

TASTE TOURStop in at the Saint-Benoît-du-Lac Abbey, near Austin on the western shore of Lac Memphrémagog, and sample its famous cheeses and its cider, produced by the monks from apples grown in the abbey’s orchards. Don’t miss the award-winning Bleu Bénédictin, which has been named the best blue cheese in Canada, and remember to congratulate Father Dominique Minier, creator of the recipe. From there, drop by Les Péchés de Pinocchio restaurant on Rue Principale in Magog and tuck into their mac ’n’ cheese, made with fresh pasta and local cheeses. After exploring Le Cep d’Argent

QUEBEC TERROIRLe Cep d’ArgentWith its vineyards, its creative chefs and its purveyors of fine food, the Eastern Townships makes a decidedly delectable destination.

White wine pairs naturally with cheese. Pictured, a selection of Saint-Benoît-du-Lac Abbey cheeses: the Swiss-style Frère Jacques, the blue cheeses Bénédictin and Ermite, the ricotta Saint-Benoit and the hard goat-milk cheese Le Moutier.

Overlooking Lac Magog, Le Cep d’Argent turns out red, white, sparkling, flavoured, fortified and late-harvest wines. Among its products is this white wine, named after the winery. Lively, precise and aromatic, the 2011 Cep d’Argent conveys an appealing freshness and minerality.

AROMASAPPLE, WHITE FLOWERS, HERBAL NOTES

BODY – LIGHT

PALATE – DELICATE

WOOD – UNOAKED


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

CANADA LE CEP D’ARGENT 2011, EASTERN TOWNSHIPS$14.30 00741181, 750 ML, 11.5% ABV

Owned by the Scieur brothers, who hail from Champagne, Le Cep d’Argent was among the first wineries in the province to focus on high quality.PAIRINGS: SHRIMP SALAD, FRESH QUEBEC CHEESES

GRAPES: SEYVAL, VIDAL

winery on the shores of Lac Magog, head for Orford to check out the gourmet boutique at Auberge aux 4 Saisons. Another nearby don’t-miss is the Belgian chocolate shop Vanden Eynden on Chemin de la Rivière-aux-Cerises: Before buying divine chocolates, you can watch them being made or take a workshop on how it’s done. And for a fine-dining experience, book a table at Orford’s four-star Estrimont Suites & Spa. The chef is a member of Chefs Créateurs, a regional network of culinary artists who head up the kitchens in about 20 of the best local restaurants. PH

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