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Constantinople to Cordoba

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alexandria, Egypt: from Cassas’ Voyage Pittoresque de la Syrie, 1799–1800, showing 1. the colon-nade which was part of the serapaeum complex, with the adjacent mosque; and 2. the rosetta

Gate, with a blocked-out garland sarcophagus and two Corinthian capitals to the left.

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late 19th-century photographs of 3. Karnak, showing the block interstices dug out to retrieve metal; and of 4. Baalbek, showing columns excavated to retrieve metal. the left-hand shaft has been severely cracked in the process (or shaken by an earthquake). 5. Caesarea, the crusader

fortress with ancient columns laid to deter sapping.

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Baalbek: 6. the mosque, with its cut-down shafts (compare the figure in the middle distance) and enormous capitals, both from the nearby ruins; and 7. a Moslem shrine some distance from the site, and again re-using cut-down shafts, in a photo of 1860/90. the entablature shows how easy it was to find a series of uniform blocks with which to make new constructions. 8. Delos, from abel Bouet’s section of the Expédition scientifique de Morée, of 1831: sparse antiquities stick

up above the bracken.

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9 & 10. saladin’s Diwan in the Citadel, Cairo. interior view from the Description de l’Egypte, of 1822; and exterior view by robert Hay, of 1840. note the diversity

of the capitals, and the different heights of the shafts.

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11. Cairo, Qalawun’s Mausoleum, built 1284–5, with huge monoliths. 12. “Pom pey’s Pillar at alexandria,” from Cassas’ Voyage Pittoresque, of 1799–1800. 13. late antique housing at El rabah (one of the “Dead Cities,” near aleppo), easily reconstructed by de Vogüé in his Syrie, of 1876.

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14 & 15. Photographs by Gertrude Bell, 1905: Korykos, street of tombs. some of these are now dispersed, but fine collections survive further east along the coast, at Elaiussa-sebaste; and Konya: a lion in alaeddin Camii, presumably one (of a whole pride) taken from the ancient walls, the ruins of which had been dismantled shortly before her visit. 16. Patras, Greece: antiq-

uities retrieved from the walls of the mediaeval fortress.

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17. the ruins of Jerash, from Buckingham’s Travels in Palestine, of 1822. this gives a good idea of the relative crudity of most published views accompany-ing earlier travel texts, and their attempt to be “picturesque.” 18. Caesarea:

the Crusader castle.

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19. Caesarea: the mediaeval mole, strengthened with antique column shafts. the ancient (and specially constructed harbour, with its own moles) could no longer be used by the Middle ages because the land had sunk relative to the sea. 20. the house of the site guide at Gortyna, pho-tographed in 1907. the statues are headless, his water trough is a sarcophagus – and his stylish steps are formed by Doric capitals. 21. the main square of the eponymous town on Cos/stan-

chio, with the branches of the famous plane tree supported by a variety of columns.

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22. the roman theatre at Bosra, syria, wrapped in the later fortress, in a view by de Vogüé from his Syrie Centrale of 1865–77. the complex was not excavated until the 1940s. 23. the fortress of Banias (Caesarea Philippi), photographed by Frith in 1862/3, and showing the re-use of large quantities of antiquities, including column shafts. 24. temple at Edfu/apollinopolis, from tay-

lor’s La Syrie, la Palestine et la Judée of 1839.

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25. With “medicinal value” added to their attractiveness as souvenirs, mummies and their cases (from Edwards’ 1000 miles up the Nile, 1876) were also protected by sand but, disappeared abroad in their thousands in the 19th century. the imperial Forum at leptis Magna, in libya, in 26 an

aerial view of June 1927, and 27 the excavations in progress in spring 1928.

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28 & 29. Views of structures built from antiquities at Constantine and Guidjel, by Delamare, from his illustrations to the Exploration scientifique de l’Algérie pendant les années 1840–1845, of 1850. inscriptions as well as columns and altars are employed, plus architectural elements, some

Christian. 30. Jerash, the oval Piazza in a photo by the Duc de luynes, of 1872.

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31. a broad view of Jerash from laborde’s Syrie of 1838, showing the completely deserted ancient site. 32. Country housing at Yonuzlar, turkey, photographed by Gertrude Bell in 1907. the house, probably including the window embrasures, is built almost entirely of antiquities. 33. late antique housing in the deserted town of El Barah, near aleppo (one of the “Dead Cities”), in a Bonfils photo of 1880/93. little subsequent destruction appears to have occurred in these communities,

and many structures have been reoccupied at various times.

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Heavy items can survive in place, lighter ones are moved. 34. sarcophagus near Milas/Mylasa, with the reduced imitation of the Mausoleum in the background. 35. the Praetorium at lambessa in a late 19thC photograph, showing antiquities, including some substantial weights gathered there into an impromptu museum, no doubt with the help of the French army – although even with 19th-century

technology they had difficulty rebuilding massive Byzantine walls.

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36. Plan of alexandria, with her walls intact, from Cassas, Voyage Pittoresque, 1799–1800. What happened to all the antiquities in these walls, and to those in the harbour? 37. the ionic temple ruins at om-el-Hamed, near tyre, by David roberts, 1839 – another indication of how many ruins were sea-accessible in the 19thC, and have since disappeared. 38. the Mausoleum reliefs set in the walls of the Castle of s. Peter at Bodrum, in a print published by the society of Dilettanti in 1829.

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39. “Way to employ the remains of antiquity,” seen by laborde in Karamania in 1842 – sarcophagus lid as fountain basin, capital as well-head, and ancient bust as counterweight. 40. the athens acropolis in a view by Dodwell of 1821, when the site was still an inhabited fortress, protecting the temples. 41. athens, in stademann’s panorama of 1841, demonstrating

how deserted was the site before the modern town began to be laid out shortly afterwards.

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42 & 43. a gate in the seljuk walls of Konya, by laborde in 1838, together with sketches of antiquities seen there and in other sections. the walls were pulled down at the end of the 19thC, and no record was kept of what was saved or of what was lost. 44 & 45. Views of the excavations at Ephesus, published by D.G. Hogarth in 1910. a large pump is needed to cope with the water, and a steam engine and deadlegs to hoist the weights. the technologies needed for deep digging

helped preserve many antiquities for the archaeologists.

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46 & 47. aezani, in near contemporary views by laborde (1838) and texier (1839). 48 & 49. Hierapolis/Pamukkale in views by laborde (1838), with the theatre and

various marble sarcophagi and architectural elements.

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50 & 51. two views of the temple of Diana (or augustus) at Mérida in 1910, part-incorporated into the façade of the Casa de los Corbos, hence partly preserved. such re-use offered some pro-tection to some otherwise vulnerable antiquities – but this palace was also built with materials

from the temple. 52. the temple of Mars at Mérida, rejigged as an up-market porte cochère.

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53. at Karapinar in anatolia, in a photo by Gertrude Bell of 1907, antiquities also decorate a house, and serve as water troughs. 54. Propylaeum of the roman temple of Jupiter incorporated in modern housing in Damascus (photograph published 1918); much sanitized, the propylaeum now forms the approach to the west wall of the umayyad Mosque, built over the temenos of that temple. 55. the arch of Caracalla at tebessa built into the Byzantine walls, and nearly destroyed

during the French occupation of algeria.

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56. the Visigothic baptistery of san Miguel de tarassa (near Barcelona), end of 7thC, furnished with antiquities perhaps from adjacent roman remains and an earlier church. 57. Church of saint-aventin, in the Vallée du larboust (Comminges), its walls built from local pagan (non roman) antiquities. 58. Perge: the colonnaded street, seen through the nymphaeum (its water-

spout, unseen here, is completely furred-up).

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59. side, the late gate, with antiquities incorporated, and a nymphaeum against the wall. Water was one of the ruling necessities of roman civic life, and its absence one of the causes both of subsequent decline and of the survival of antiquities. 60. ankara: stone water pipes incor-porated in the walls of the citadel – proof positive that for reasons unknown they could no longer serve their original purpose. 61. similar pipes used in the refurbishment of an (originally

roman?) bridge near aspendos, over the Eurymedon.

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62. ancient projectiles recovered from the 1927 excavations at Pergamum, perhaps carved direct from the quarry – unlike those which sidon awaited, which would have been recut from antique columns. 63. sidon, sea Castle, fortified with columns en boutisse. 64. the subsequent unpopularity of sarcophagi (even plain ones) is underlined by the large collection in this

depository at limenas, on thasos.

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65. Columns and capitals were re-used with enthusiasm, as in this view of materials from dis-mantled mediaeval houses at Fustat, Cairo. 66. little survives of the cladding veneer of (a rebuilt corner of ) the temple of apollo smintheus near Gulpinar, in the troad. Few of the marble shafts survive, though the podium, of local stone, is largely intact. 67. at thessaloniki, theatre seats were re-used to make an elegant face to the west walls – and to do so were carried across

the city, from beyond the east walls.

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68. Bosra: the decumanus, of which the modern town forms a part, with ancient columns and modern houses intermixed – as must have occurred in many towns

down the ages. 69. apamea, water conduits.

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(top & centre) Bursa: 70. alauddin Mosque, with re-used Byzantine shafts and capitals. 71. Mausoleum of Murat ii, of 1451. the shafts and inverted-capital bases are antique – but the tomb is made up from marble slabs, rather than being an antique sarcophagus. 72. apamea:

colonnade of limestone shafts.

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(top left & right) Damascus: 73. Propylaeum leading to the umayyad Mosque. 74. antique pediment to the Hospital an-nouri, of 1154. 75. iznik, lefke Kapisi, with ancient altar inset –

but the inscription chiselled.

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76. syracuse, the cathedral re-using the Doric colonnade of a Greek temple. 77. Bara, one of the “Dead Cities,” with sarcophagi.

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(top left & right) 78. Baalbek, temple of Jupiter, completed c. 60 aD. 79. Pergamum: the trajaneum, completed c. 110 aD, in a photo of 1895. 80. ascalon, in a print by Forbin of 1825,

showing a large number of complete and partial column shafts.

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two views by Dodwell in 1819: 81. athens, the lysicrates Monument as a small house. 82. (centre) the mosque at libadea, Greece: note the antiquities in the cemetery. 83. Bosra, in a photograph

of 1903: the whole of the theatre cavea was obstructed by rubble.

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Miletus, nymphaeum: 84. state in 1910 photograph, with block interstices exca-vated to extract metal. 85. reconstruction by Huelsen, 1910.

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(top left & right) Kairouan, Great Mosque, enlarged in the 9th century: 86. arcading of courtyard, with plentiful re-used columns, capitals and bases; 87. spolia both architectural and inscriptional in the lower courses of the minaret. 88. Manisa, portico of sultan Camii, of 1512, with the variety

of shafts variously disguised.

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89. interior of the temple at Bassae, by Cockerell, 1860. 90. the acropolis of Pergamum in a drawing of 1900. 91. athens, temple of Hadrian, in Blouet’s Morée, of 1833.

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