Syntetiske tekstilfibre – 3d elektrospinding af bæredygtigt tøj

Syntetiske fibre3D-printning af bæredygtigt tøj

www.tekstilbiologi.dk

Tekstilbiolog/designer

2

Hvor meget plast i tøj?

4Worldwide fiber production. SOURCE: Data from Fiber Economics Bureau of the American Fiber Manufacturing Association.

5Percentage breakdown of consumption by fibre type for clothing and household textiles (IMPRO Textiles 2014)

54%

46%16%

28%

23%

30%

70%

Materialer i Tøj (EU)

Generel opfattelse af syntetiske fibre

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MiljøbelastendeUKomfortabel

”Ikke relevant for mig” (Volumen)…

Syntetiske fibre

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Råvarer Brugsfase EndOfLifeForædling (transport)

9Impacts of textile consumption in the EU-27 according to the ReCiPe's midpoint (a) and 4ndpoint (b) indicators. The percentage

contribution of the different life cycle stages is reported (IMPRO Textiles 2011)

Miljøbelastning af tekstil forbrugLivscyklus-faser

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(transport)Råvarer Brugsfase EndOfLifeForædling

Tekstile fibre

Naturlige <> syntetiske

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Klassificering – tekstile fibre

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14

Manufactured - Modificérbar

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16http://www.lenzing.com/en/concern/sustainability.html

17http://www.lenzing.com/en/concern/sustainability.html

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Material Sustainability Indexhttp://msi.apparelcoalition.org

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Material Sustainability Indexhttp://msi.apparelcoalition.org

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IMPRO – textiles (2014)

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22


24%

70%

<1%

80%

20%40%60%

(IMPRO Textiles 2014)

25% 75%

(mikro)plast i havet

24


25


70%

80%

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Syntetiske tekstil fibre

Generelle egenskaber

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Egenskaber• Varme-følsomme• Modstandsdygtig

– Fleste kemikalier– Insekter, svampe, råd– Sollys, regn

• Lav fugt-absorption• Statisk elektrisk• Slidstyrke høj• Pilling• Formstabil (resilience)

• Lette• Elastiske• Lugt• Isolerende

Syntetiske tekstil fibreTyper

NylonPolyester

OlefinAkryl

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• Nylon

• Polyester

• Olefin

• Acrylic

16%

10%

≈3%

10%

Percentage breakdown of consumption by fibre type for clothing and household textiles (IMPRO Textiles 2014)

Polyaminer (PA)

PET

Polyethylen (PE)Polypropylen (PP)

Poly(methyl methacrylate) (PMMA)

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• Nylon

• Polyester

• Olefin

• Acrylic

Nylon66

Polyester fabric

Polypropylene fabric

Knit Acrylic fabric

Percentage breakdown of consumption by fibre type for clothing and household textiles (IMPRO Textiles 2014)

16%

10%

≈3%

10%


NylonPolyester

OlefinAkryl

3333

Polyurethan (PUR)

ElasthaneDorlastan

LycraSupplex

35


NylonPolyester

OlefinAkryl

37

38

Polyester

Midweight Thermax® T-neck By Duofold (for Women)Extraordinary warmth, wicking power and soft comfort. 100% Thermax®


NylonPolyester

OlefinAkryl

40http://triocean.com.tw/#about-us

41

Dyneema: 96% cotton, 4% polyethylene 33% polypropylene

ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene fiber

42

(PET PET/PP)


NylonPolyester

OlefinAkryl

44http://www.dralon.com http://drytex.es

Genanvendelse

46

• Nylon

• Polyester

• Olefin

• Acrylic

Nylon66

Polyester fabric

Recycl Polyester fabric

Polypropylene fabric

Knit Acrylic fabric

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Mikroorganismer

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fungi Schizophyllum Commune

Pleurotus Ostreatus

Katharina Unger and Julia Kaisinger

http://www.livinstudio.com/fungi-mutarium/

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…took six weeks to completely degrade just a small film of low-grade PET, and breaking down the higher-quality material used in packaging would take even longer

50


MiljøbelastendeUKomfortabel

”Ikke så vigtig” (Volumen)…

[email protected]

3d-elektrospinding af (bæredygtigt?) tøj…

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3D-printet tøj

53

5454

Poly(vinyl alcohol) (PVA)Poly(ethylene oxide) (PEO)Poly(lactic acid)

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Materialer

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Konstruktion

57

Anvendelse

Bomuldspose: x131, før dens klimaaftryk bliver mindre end plastposens. Bruges i gennemsnit 51 gange

Stofbleer: mere vand og udleder mere flydende affald Engangsbleer: mere affald i fast form og forbruger flere råmaterialer.

http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-1358885/Why-need-use-environmentally-friendly-cotton-carrier-bag-171-times-green.html

http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-1358885/Why-need-use-environmentally-friendly-cotton-carrier-bag-171-times-green.html

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3d elektrospundet beklædning af biprodukt keratin

Syntetiske fibre3D-printning af bæredygtigt tøj

[email protected]

www.Tekstilbiologi.dk

mailto:[email protected]

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61

62

IMPRO – textiles (2014)

63

IMPRO Textiles 2014

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IMPRO Textiles 2014

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Fiber blending

• the longer lifetime of polyester and of

cotton/polyester fibre blend

• the lower temperature for washing (40

°C for the T-shirt containing some

polyester compared to 45.8 °C for

cotton) reduces the impact of the use

phase

IMPRO Textiles 2014

66

Controlled De-Cross-Linking and Disentanglement of Feather Keratin for Fiber Preparation via a Novel ProcessACS Sustainable Chem. Eng., 2014, 2 (6), pp 1404–1410

Design

Syntetiske tekstilfibre – 3d elektrospinding af bæredygtigt tøj