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Homeowner

Manual

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Dear New Homeowner,

We would like to congratulate you on your new home. Cascade Builder Services is proud to be

assisting you throughout your one year warranty period.

This Homeowner Manual has been created for you by Cascade Builder Services on behalf of

your homebuilder. This manual is intended to answer many of your questions and to prepare you

for the best possible home ownership experience.

We ask that you take some time to review this manual thoroughly as it contains your warranty

procedures, claim forms and maintenance recommendations.

If you have any further questions or need clarification on any topic, please contact Cascade

Builder Services. We are always ready to help you in any way we can as you enjoy your newly

constructed home!

Sincerely,

Kevin Pierce

Founder

Cascade Builder Services

We are a third party warranty management company with extensive experience in customer

service. We have extensive experience with One Year Workmanship and Materials Warranties

and take great pride in our role as the informed and objective third party warranty administrator.

We believe our service to be a great benefit to both the homeowner and the builder. Cascade

Builder Services has been chosen by your home builder to facilitate and administer the 12 month

materials and workmanship warranty on your new home. We will help provide you with an

objective viewpoint and assessment of any and all warranty related issues.

Cascade Builder Services will be conducting your New Home Orientation. We will also

inspect and validate your requests for warranty repairs. Cascade Builder Services coordinates

any validated warranty repair appointments with the appropriate trade subcontractor or builder

employee. All warranty claims will be reviewed, inspected and appropriate action will be taken.

We base all of our decisions upon the builders written warranty that was provided to you at the

time of your signed purchase agreement.

At Cascade Builder Services, it is our primary goal to help you become a successful homeowner.

We understand there are many complex parts to a home and believe that with proper education

and maintenance, you can be assured a successful experience as a new homeowner. Cascade

Builder Services is here to help.

Congratulations again on your new home!

Helpful Service Information

Your builder has constructed your home with great pride. They have used experienced craftsmen

and laborers who carefully selected their products and materials. The construction of your new

home was supervised by your builder to assure quality and consistency. The construction plans

and specifications required to build your home provided the blueprint for the final product. It is

important to note that even homes with the exact same design never end up identical. All homes

have a uniqueness as they are constructed mostly with human hands and natural materials.

Therefore, each home will react differently to the conditions it experiences.

Your new home requires care from the moment you move in. Proper care of your home will

ensure satisfactory performance and provide longevity to your investment. Please use this

manual as a tool to assist with your care and maintenance program.

Use and Maintenance Guidelines for Homeowners

Your builder takes great pride in the homes they build within your community. It is their ultimate

goal to create long term and lasting value to you. You have the exclusive opportunity to

understand and provide the appropriate maintenance for your new home. Consistent maintenance

will be necessary for your home due to normal wear and tear and the way in which it reacts to

the environment. Routine inspections and/or services are required for the mechanical systems

throughout the home. Since your home consists of both manufactured products and natural

materials, these systems and their components will interact with each other differently with the

environment. Fluctuations in humidity and temperature will affect your home in various ways.

We realize it is impossible to describe or anticipate all actions that may be required for good

home care. Cascade Builder Services has tried to outline areas that affect the majority of homes.

We have tried to provide answers to the most common questions and scenarios in our Care and

Maintenance section. Keep in mind that homebuilders are currently using many different

products and systems when constructing the homes. We will discuss multiple types of products,

systems and appliances not found in every home in the following sections.

Some issues may become more urgent than others and require more immediate action.

Overlooking or ignoring a minor maintenance issue can sometimes create major problems for the

homeowner. Neglecting routine maintenance can actually void the warranty coverage on all or

part of your new home. Proactive care and maintenance of your new home will help provide

years of enjoyment and uninterrupted warranty coverage.

Manufacturer Warranties

Certain consumer products (e.g. Range, Dishwasher) carry only the manufacturer’s warranty.

You must make any claims for certain consumer products direct to the appliance manufacturer.

Customer Service contact information can be found in the owner’s manual for each specific

appliance. If you are unable to locate your manual for any appliance, please look online for the

manufacturer’s website. All pertinent information should be listed at that location.

Cascade Builder Services recommends that you read carefully through each of the manufacturer

warranties and manuals provided. Proper use and care can assure warrantability and help prolong

the useful life of your appliance. Cascade Builder Services does not provide appliance manuals

nor the management of warranty claims for these products.

Most consumer warranties are for one year. In some cases, you may be able to purchase an

extended warranty on your appliances. It is best to check directly with the manufacturer

regarding any warranty issue.

Always follow the manufacturer’s recommendation even if it conflicts with information given to

you by your builder or Cascade Builder Services.

Defined Limited Warranty Standards

Your builder strives to build a home free of defects. Unfortunately, you may experience items in

your home that fail to perform their intended function. If this occurs, your builder will take the

necessary action to correct the warrantable item and bring it within warranty standards. Your

builder supports this commitment in the form of a written warranty. We recommend you

familiarize yourself with the terms and conditions of your warranty.

Sometimes we break the rules in your favor.

Cascade Builder Services uses your written warranty when assessing claim requests for warranty

repairs. We use criteria from The National Association of Homebuilders when validating those

claims. Your builder reserves the right to exceed those standards, at their sole discretion, without

the obligation of exceeding all standards in similar or comparable claims. Exceeding standards

for one home does not require them to exceed standards for unlike claims in all homes.

Sometimes we say no action

A home is a very complex structure. Viewpoints may differ with regard to which items pertain to

misuse, routine maintenance or warranty responsibility of either the builder or homeowner. If

you make a claim on a maintenance item, Cascade Builder Services will explain the best process

for that maintenance issue. Cascade Builder Services is available to answer any maintenance

questions and guide you throughout your warranty period. Keep in mind it is your sole

responsibility as the homeowner to be aware of and provide normal routine maintenance for your

new home.

Homeowners may sometimes not understand or agree with a repair request that did not qualify

for warranty service. Please contact our office in writing if you wish to gain additional

information or better understanding why a repair was declined. If you still disagree with our

position and desire reconsideration of the warranty claim, we will require that request in writing.

Warranty Reporting Summarized

Providing warranty services for new homes is much more complex than most products. When

you purchased your new home, you actually purchased the workmanship and material from 30-

50 independent companies and trade contractors. Cascade Builder Services has established and

designed a claims process to accept written repair requests for all non-emergency claims.

Claims are requested to be sent using your established account and through our web site. You are

also welcome to submit claims by mail, fax, or email. Please retain a copy of any correspondence

for your records. Emergency service requests are accepted by phone. Please see the emergency

section in this manual and be sure to follow the troubleshooting tips.

“The Steps of our Process”

The most efficient way for submitting a warranty claim

is through our website www.CascadeBuilderServices.com

Just click “make a claim” at the top of the page and follow the directions

It’s that easy!

New Home Orientation

Closing of your Home

60-Day Claim

Submission

11-Month Claim

Submission

Warranty Ends 12

months after closing

Procedures for Submitting Claims

60 Day Warranty Inspection

We recommend waiting at least 60 days before requesting warranty service for issues not

affecting the safe and functional use of your home. This allows you the opportunity to become

familiar with the many components of your home on a regular basis.

Submitting requests for warranty repair

If a warrantable item fails to perform its intended function, it can be noted on a Request for

Warranty Repair form. These forms allow you to list any and all concerns as needed during the

first 60 days. Sometimes several issues fall into the jurisdiction of a specific contractor. If

possible, we will try to consolidate issues into one appointment for the convenience of all parties.

Please submit your warranty repair requests via our website, mail, fax or email. Your list should

include a location and description of your claim. We request that you review your written

warranty prior to submission. This will help you determine whether or not a claim meets the

applicable standard and should be listed. If you have questions, feel free to call our office.

REQUESTS FOR WARRANTY REPAIR MUST BE SUBMITTED IN WRITING VIA

EMAIL, FAX OR MAIL. WE PREFER ELECTRONIC SUBMISSION THROUGH OUR

WEBSITE!

www . cascadebuilderservices . com

Please keep a copy of any warranty repair requests for your records.

Not all homeowners have repair requests at 60 days. You are not required to submit any warranty

requests at 60 days!

Scheduling for your 60 day Warranty Review

Upon receipt of your Request for Warranty Repair form, Cascade Builders Services will contact

you to schedule a physical site inspection of your claim. All warranty inspection appointments

are scheduled Monday – Friday, 8:30am – 3:00pm. We will try to accommodate any urgency

issues when attempting to schedule the inspection appointment.

11 month Warranty Review

We recommend that you wait and compile requests for warranty service as long as you feel the

issues will not adversely affect your ability of using your home or cause additional damage. It is

the perfect time to submit your final requests for warranty service on the 11th month after the

closing of your home. Any one time only repair should be held until the 11 month warranty

review. Procedures for the 11th month warranty review are similar to those of the 60 day. Please

refer to the 60 day procedures if you need any clarification.

Help us to better serve you

Receive the fastest, most accurate service from Cascade Builder Services by:

-Providing your name, address and preferred contact number.

-Providing a complete description of the warranty repair requests. (E.G. Kitchen – The hot water

leaks under the sink when used. Rather than Kitchen – Water leak.)

-Letting us know when, where and how best to reach you. (E.G. I’m off on Fridays and I have a

cell phone that is always with me)

During your Warranty Inspection

A Cascade Builder Services representative uses the time at your warranty claim appointment to

visually inspect your Requests for Warranty Repair. The assessment of the issues and

determination of warrantability will be made back to you in writing via our website (email). If

the claim is warrantable, corrective action processes will begin. Most often claims are going to

fall into one of the following categories:

1. Trade contractor is responsible for the warranty repair.

2. Builder is responsible for the warranty repair.

3. Homeowner is responsible for the maintenance item.

If your claim is assigned to the builder or a trade contractor, Cascade Builder Services submits a

written warranty repair order describing the situation to be addressed to the responsible party. If

your claim is determined to be a homeowner maintenance issue, Cascade Builder Services will

discuss steps you can take in order to address the concern.

Appointments for Repair

Cascade Builder Services may conclude your Warranty Inspection and suggest to scheduling an

appointment for necessary repairs. We will ask that you select a business day that is a minimum

of 10 working following your inspection. This time frame allows us to forward your warranty

repair orders to the trade contractors or the builder.

In some cases, Cascade Builder Services may need to discuss the warranty issue with your

builder prior to selecting a date for repairs. In this case, Cascade Builder Services will contact

you after meeting with your builder to discuss the intended plan of action.

Periodically, your warranty repairs may have to occur in a sequence. They may also require

drying or curing before follow up can occur. This could result in added work days required for

the builder or trade contractor.

Cascade Builder Services provides email reminders prior to scheduled work days.

Achieving access to your home

Cascade Builder Services will not enter homes without an adult present. The adult should be able

to point out the exact location of all items listed on request forms. Builder employees and trade

contractors also require an adult to be present with awareness of the item locations. An adult

individual must be present at all times at the premises and will be asked to authorize and sign

acknowledgment that satisfactory repairs were made.

Cascade Builder Services will not accept keys, nor will we arrange for a trade contractor or

builder employee to accept keys to achieve access to a home.

Exterior

It is possible for exterior warranty visits and repairs to take place without an adult present as long

as there is safe and adequate access. (No Dogs, No Locked Gates, No posted trespassing

remarks.) If there are any issues regarding safe and adequate access at your home, please let us

know in advance so we can schedule the appointment accordingly. We ask that you prepare a

safe work environment for all individuals involved at the time of site inspection and repair.

Work and Inspection Hours

Cascade Builder Services operates its office and schedules warranty inspection field staff

Monday - Friday during normal business hours. There are a few reasons that Inspection and

Repair appointments are best provided during these hours:

1. We find that the 30-50 repair contractors who helped build your home, are able to provide

service to your builder during the week and are often local businesses.

2. The majority of repairs and inspections require daylight for proper visibility such as drywall

and painting.

Our Hours of Operation

Office/Administrators Monday – Friday 8:00am-5:00pm

Warranty Inspections Monday – Friday 8:30am – 3:00pm

Scheduled Repairs Monday – Friday 7:00am – 5:00pm

Cascade Builder Services has an automated voicemail system, 24/7, 365 days a year. If you reach

our voicemail, please leave a detailed message. We will return your call as soon as possible. We

try to return emergency phone calls within 15 minutes.

Pets

Cascade Builder Services, your builder and its trade contractors acknowledge that pets are very

important members of your family. In order to minimize the potential for injury to your pets,

we request that they be made comfortable in a location outside the inspection and repair areas.

This policy is put in place for the safety of your pets and for our inspectors, builder employees

and trade contractors.

Personal Belongings

Cascade Builder Services suggests that you secure or remove valuables from any and all repair

areas. It is your responsibility as the homeowner to provide safe, easy access to the location of

intended repairs and to protect all of your valuables, furnishings and wall hangings in the

vicinity. Your builder employees and trade contractors may reschedule the repair appointment in

cases where there is a potential for damage to your belongings. Rescheduling for this reason

could result in a trip charge assessed.

Acknowledging Satisfactory Repairs

When a homeowner signs a completed work order, Cascade Builder Services interprets this

action as the acknowledgment that a satisfactory repair was made and the claim will be closed.

Incomplete Items Follow-Up

Cascade Builder Services does a regular review of outstanding repair items. We will make

contact with builder employees, trade contractors and homeowners to determine the status of

outstanding items. We will try to determine the cause for delays and attempt to facilitate the

scheduling process. It is in the best interest of all parties to get the warranty repairs completed

within a reasonable time frame. Most of the warranty repairs occur within 15 days of the final

determination. In some cases, back ordered material or further evaluation of the claim can slow

this process.

Weather can sometimes delay repairs where specific climate conditions are required. Keep in

mind that the warranty repair will be best served if it is completed under optimal work

conditions.

Missing Scheduled Appointments

It is imperative to notify Cascade Builder Services in advance if you are unable to keep your

scheduled appointment. We understand that uncontrolled emergencies present themselves.

Notifying Cascade Builder Services as soon as possible in the event of an emergency is greatly

appreciated. Also, the work day and commuter traffic of our service providers do not always

flow as planned. If Cascade Builder Services, a builder employee or trade contractor realize they

will be late, we ask that they notify you as soon as any delays are realized. Ideally, you would be

offered a later appointment time in the day or offered a new appointment. We can place warranty

repair orders on hold if a situation causes you to become unavailable for a reasonable extended

period of time.

Trade contractors will sometimes issue a trip charge for missed appointments without your

notification or if you ask to reschedule. Please be aware of this potential issue.

How Cascade Builder Services Facilitates Completion of Approved Warranty Claims

We notify the appointed builder employee or trade contractor that they have been deemed

responsible or appointed for a warranty repair. They receive this notification, in writing via email

with the appointment date. The responsible party will either confirm the appointment on their

schedule or contact you directly for scheduling. In cases where the trade cannot commit to the

preselected work day, there is an option for them to request a reschedule. This request is sent to

you directly through our website for your approval or not. Keep in mind that coordinating a work

day can be a very time consuming task for Cascade Builder Services. It is our hope that

scheduling can be executed with limited conflicts.

Please be advised that trade contractor and your builders staff are not employees of Cascade

Builder Services. Your builder has been diligent in trying to select trade contractors that are

punctual and responsive. Sometimes even the best trade contractors get busy with other jobs and

they wish they could be more responsive to meet our scheduling practices.

Cascade Builder Services has specific procedures in place to coordinate the completion of your

warranty repairs. We ask that you notify us if you receive information or a response that you feel

we should be aware of. If a trade contractor misses your appointment or fails to schedule for a

repair, we will report this to your builder. At their sole discretion, your builder may assign a new

trade contractor to perform your warranty repair.

Emergency Service

Emergency warranty situations are not common, but they do occur. Prompt attention is required.

Please contact us if any of the following situations occur:

● Your home has no heat when the temperature outside is below 50 degrees F.

● Your home loses electricity that is limited to just your home, not entire area.

● Your home has no water. Please verify this does not affect the neighborhood.

● A plumbing leak occurs that requires the entire water supply to be shut off.

All gas leaks should be treated as an emergency. Contact your service provider immediately to

prevent potentially catastrophic damages. The number can be found on your bill. The utility

providers name is generally on a tag at the gas meter. Notating this information in advance is

strongly recommended. Please keep the emergency contact information of your Natural Gas

provider in a place that can be found quickly and easily in your home.

Troubleshooting

Please begin to troubleshoot an existing problem as soon as it is detected. Many situations

can be rectified easily or at least mitigated until a professional arrives. Please refer to the

Troubleshooting tab in this manual for any suggestions.

Roof Leak

It is a common policy for roofing contractors to postpone repairing roof leaks until a storm

has passed. It is not safe for roofers to be on a roof that is wet, in high winds or during

lightning storms. If you do suspect a roof leak, please notify Cascade Builder Services after

containing the water leak with buckets or any other means to help stop the spread of water

damage. Do not use electricity directly in the area of water puddles or wet fixtures. Dry up any

water that has entered the home.

It is your responsibility to mitigate damage to the best of your ability until the builder or its

representative can respond.

Tips for Troubleshooting

Troubleshooting problems before requesting emergency service is critical in order to prevent a

bill from a contractor sent to repair systems not functioning due to operator error. Trip charges

can double and triple when they occur outside normal business hours. When contacting Cascade

Builder Services to request emergency service, we will require you to follow the troubleshooting

information provided in this section. This will validate whether or not emergency service is

required and warrantable. Even if the troubleshooting tips do not identify a solution, the

information you gather will be useful to the service provider.

NO ELECTRICAL SERVICE

Lack of Electrical Service in the Entire Home

Before calling for service, we require you check to confirm the following:

Service is not out in the entire area. If this is the case, contact the utility company.

Main breaker and individual breakers are all in the on position. If power is lost only

in the bedroom areas, check the breaker with reset buttons on them. If a breaker trips, you must

turn it to the ‘off’ position first, then back to the ‘on’ position.

Lack of Electricity to One or More Outlets

Before calling for service, we require you check to confirm the following:

● All breakers at the main panel are in the ‘on’ position. This includes the ‘main’ breaker

switch.

● Wall switch is on if applicable.

● GFCI has not tripped. (These are outlets with test and reset buttons generally found in

kitchens and bathrooms) Push the test button, followed by the reset button.

● The item you want to use is plugged in.

● The item you want to use works in other outlets.

● The bulb in the lamp is good.

Even if the troubleshooting tips do not identify a solution, the information you gather

will be useful to the service provider.

NO HEATING

Forced air

Before calling for service, check to confirm that the:

● Thermostat is set to "heat" and the temperature is set at least 2 degrees above the room

temperature.

● The thermostat has good batteries. (Generally 2 - AA batteries are required)

● Blower panel cover on the face of the furnace is installed correctly for the furnace blower

fan to operate. When the panel is installed securely in place, it compresses a button that

sends a signal to the fan motor of the blower; thus allowing it to operate safely. If that

button is not pushed in, the furnace will not operate.

● The breaker on the main electrical panel is on.

● The switch on the side of the furnace is on. (This typically is a light switch and could be

upside down or laying on its side. The switch is labeled with an on and an off)

● Check that the fuse in the furnace is good. (See manufacturer literature for size and

location.)

● The gas line is open at the main meter and at the side of the furnace. (These are typically

ball valves; mostly painted red; and are perpendicular to the pipe when closed. They are

parallel to the pipe when in the open position. This only applies to gas driven furnaces)

● The furnace filter is clean to allow adequate airflow. (This is a very common cause for

heating failures. Furnace Filters should be inspected and possibly replaced monthly.)

● Adjustable vents in individual rooms are open.

● Air returns have no obstruction. (Furniture or wall hangings are sometimes placed too

close to these air vents and restrict air flow.)

Electric wall or baseboard heating

Before calling for service, check to confirm that the:

● Thermostat is set to "heat" and the temperature is set above the room temperature by at

least 2 degrees.

● The breaker in the breaker panel has not tripped.

● There is not excessive buildup of dust or debris in the heating unit.

Even if the troubleshooting tips do not identify a solution, the information you gather

will be useful to the service provider.

PLUMBING

No Water Anywhere in the Home

Before calling for service, check to confirm that the:

● Main shut off valve(s) inside your home are open.

● Main shut off at the street meter is open.

● Individual shut-offs for each water fixture throughout the house are in the ‘open’

position.

● Check with your neighbor or provider to see if anyone else is experiencing the same

issue.

No Hot Water

See Water Heater section

Leak At Only One Sink, Tub, or Toilet

● Check caulking and grout.

● Confirm shower door or tub enclosure was properly closed.

● Turn water supply off to that item.

● Use other facilities in your home and report the problem on the next business day.

Leak Involving a Main Line

● Turn water off at the meter (this is generally located at or near the street of public walk.

Most hardware stores sell Curb Keys to ease use of this valve.) If it appears to be a

supply or drain line issue, the water meter has a flow indicator that spins when water is

being consumed. (Flow indicators are generally triangle or asterisk shaped.)

Back Up at One Toilet

If only one toilet is affected, corrections occur during normal business hours.

● Shut off the water supply to the toilet involved.

● Use a plunger to clear the blockage.

● Use a snake to clear the blockage.

● If you've been in your home fewer than 30 days, contact Cascade Builder Services.

● If you've been in your home over 30 days, contact a router service.

Sewer Back Up Affecting Entire Home

● If you've been in your home fewer than 30 days, contact Cascade Builder Services.

● If you've been in your home over 30 days, contact a router service.

● Remove personal belongings to a safe location. If items are soiled, contact your

homeowner insurance company.

Even if the troubleshooting tips do not identify a solution, the information you gather

will be useful to the service provider.

Septic

Before calling for service, check to confirm that the:

System Alarm

● Have you lost power at home? The pump may need time to catch up. (Check at your

alarm. It will have a silence button, pad, or toggle.)

● Is the breaker tripped? Again, the pump may need time to catch up. (Remember if a

breaker trips, you must turn it from the tripped position to the off position before you can

turn it back on.) (Check at your alarm. It will have a silence button, pad, or toggle.)

● Has there been excessive amounts of rain causing a high water table? It is possible that

the system can become over saturated due to natural causes rather than an issue due to

improper installation.

System Failure

Signs that your septic system is failing include:

● Black water with a foul odor backing up drains or toilets.

● Toilets flush slowly.

● Water ponds on top of the disposal field.

● Grass stays green over the disposal field even in dry weather.

Even if the troubleshooting tips do not identify a solution, the information you gather

will be useful to the service provider.

NO HOT WATER

Before calling for service, check to confirm the following:

Electric Water Heater

● Water heater breaker on your main electric panel is in the ‘on’ position. (Remember if a

breaker trips you must turn it from the tripped position to the off position before you can

turn it back on.)

● Temperature setting is not on “vacation” or set too low.

● Water supply valve is open.

● The amount your tank can provide has not already been depleted.

●

Refer to the manufacturer's literature for specific locations of these items and possibly other

troubleshooting tips.

Gas Water Heater

Before calling for service, check to confirm that:

● The gas supply valve is open

● Pilot is still lit. (Directions will be found on the side of the tank.)

● Temperature setting is not on “vacation” or too low.

● Water supply valve is open.

● The amount your tank can provide has not already been depleted.

Refer to the manufacturer's literature for specific locations of these items and possibly

other troubleshooting tips.

Even if the troubleshooting tips do not identify a solution, the information you gather will be

useful to the service provider you call.

Important Care and Maintenance Information

EXTERIOR

DRIVEWAYS, SIDEWALKS AND PATIOS

Concrete

Driveways and sidewalks are generally made of concrete. Concrete is a strong material

that wears well and will perform for many years. Concrete will shrink as it cures. This shrinkage

causes stress in the concrete, which often results in surface cracks as this stress is released. This

cracking can be somewhat controlled by the installation of control joints in the concrete. These

deliberate joints in the concrete are more prone to cracking than the remainder of the slab. The

cracks you may see are generally cosmetic and do not require repair unless they exceed

acceptable standards as set out by your builder. Seasonal variations in temperature may also

cause cracks in concrete slabs. Soil movement beneath the concrete due to frost penetration can

crack and/or raise sections of the concrete. This change in height may change the direction of

surface drainage and cause water to pool against the foundation wall. If this occurs, repairs

should be made to prevent water from pooling against the foundation wall. Water may seep

through the foundation wall and into the home. These issues are generally considered natural

occurrences and beyond the builder’s control.

Another potential cause of damage to concrete surfaces is road salt and other chemical

contaminants. Road salt or other de-icing products used in the winter may adversely affect the

surface of the concrete. As a result, road slush containing road salt should not be allowed to melt

on the concrete. A good alternative for de-icing is sand or cat litter. These products generally

increase traction on icy sections of the driveway or sidewalk. Common lawn fertilizer,

contaminated surface water and runoff from stored materials can cause staining on the surface of

the concrete and cannot be removed. Concrete sealers that are commercially available may

reduce damage due to chemical contaminants. Care should be taken in the handling and storage

of potential contaminants on or near any concrete surface.

Concrete Pavers

Manufactured concrete products such as paving stones are also susceptible to surface

damage and staining. The same precautions pertaining to concrete surfaces should also be used

with these products.

Concrete pavers are installed on a bed of coarse sand or fine gravel. Some localized settling may

occur due to compaction of these materials. If some areas settle excessively, lift out the pavers

and add sand in order to level out the area.

Suitable material for this repair can be purchased from your local home supply store.

Asphalt

Asphalt surfaces are seldom smooth and often have indentations. Checking or cracking at the

edges from expansion and contraction are other common characteristics. Damage to the surface

may also occur in hot weather as the surface softens due the heat. Sharp or pointed objects such

as motorcycle kickstands or trailer hitches can penetrate the surface. Gasoline and solvents can

dissolve asphalt quickly. Spills or fluid leakage from automobiles should be removed

immediately. Periodic sealing of the asphalt surface (every two to five years) with an acrylic-

based sealant is recommended. These products are readily available at most home supply centers.

Gravel

Gravel driveways require raking periodically to fill in depressions and to maintain an even

surface. Crowning the center of the driveway or sloping it to one side is a good method

of controlling surface water.

Site Drainage & Grading

The intent of site drainage patterns is to prevent surface water from pooling near or

against the perimeter foundation wall of your new home. This is accomplished by sloping the

soil away from the residence on all sides and maintaining a minimum 2% grade.

Window wells provide a window for a basement below the grade. These wells must be kept free

of ice, snow, leaves and other debris which could block the drainage system and potentially flood

your new home.

Depressions due to soil compaction may occur adjacent to the foundation walls. These

depressions should be filled and graded to help direct surface water away from the walls for a

distance of at least six feet. At no time should water be allowed to pool against the foundation

walls.

Overall property drainage systems may include surface depressions (swales), drain tile curtain

drains and catch basins. Ice, snow, leaves and other debris can block the flow of drainage and

must be seasonally maintained by the owner. Care must be taken not to permanently alter the

drainage flow as this may create additional drainage problems.

During periods of excessive rainfall, standing water may occur due to soil saturation.

Such conditions are beyond the control of the owner or builder.

Drain Tile & Sump

In most jurisdictions, there is a requirement for a perimeter drain tile system. This system is

located below the level of the basement or crawlspace floor. It is generally comprised of

perforated pipes covered with gravel in order to allow water to seep into them. This drain tile

carries the water away from the perimeter of the house and prevents it from accumulating against

the foundation walls or footings. The drain tile then carries the water to a sump or catch basin.

Sediment in the water settles to the bottom of the sump and the clear water is then drained off by

another pipe. The water is then carried to the municipal storm sewer, ditch or a rock pit located

in the yard.

Access pipes or clean-outs are installed to allow the perimeter drain tile to be inspected and

cleaned. The location of these clean-outs should be identified for future reference. Sumps and

catch basins should be cleaned at least every two years to remove any excessive sediment, leaves

or debris.

Exterior stairwells are often equipped with a drain and sump at their base. This helps prevent

flooding of the basement. These drains must be kept clear of debris.

Avoid planting deep-rooted foliage or trees next to the foundation walls as roots can clog a drain

tile system.

The requirement for a perimeter drain tile system may be waived by the proper authority

in arid regions, regions with free draining soils or some rocky lots. In areas of blasted rock, it is

virtually impossible to stop the movement of water through the rock. Water may seep and cause

wet condition in areas of exposed rock in a crawlspace. Care must be taken to ensure that any

visible water is drained away and the area is adequately ventilated.

Landscaping

Frequent watering of the grass is essential during the first few weeks after an area has

been sodded or seeded. Once the grass is established, weekly watering is adequate. This

will promote a deep root system that will result in a healthier, more drought resistant

lawn. Frequent light watering results in a shallow root system that causes the lawn to

dry out and die in drought conditions. For the same reason, grass should not be cut

shorter than two inches in height.

Fertilizing twice a year and controlling weeds will promote a healthy lawn. Consult your local

home garden center for suitable lawn care products. During the spring thaw, do not allow snow

or ice to accumulate in shaded areas of your lawn. This will damage the grass. Accumulations of

snow should be distributed over a large area so that it melts evenly. Minor settlement will occur

over some areas of new lawns or landscaping. These areas should be filled and reseeded to

maintain a level surface.

When installing flowerbeds, be careful not to interfere with the drainage system. Ensure

that the flowerbeds are graded away from the foundation wall and that a minimum clearance of

eight inches is maintained between the ground level and the bottom of the exterior wall cladding.

Never allow soil or gravel to come in contact with untreated wood materials or your exterior

finish. Trees and shrubs should be kept clear of the house.

Deep rooted plants or trees could interfere with the performance of the perimeter drainage

system of the house. Newly planted trees or shrubs require a shallow depression around their

base. Loosen the soil of the depression periodically to allow air and water to penetrate into the

root system. Once the plant is established , the depression can be filled in. Remember, never

raise the soil above the level of the base of the trunk. This action this will more than likely kill

the tree. In some arid locations, the installation of lawns, planters, trees or shrubs adjacent to

your new home is not recommended. The water that is required to sustain a healthy lawn and

plants causes soil to expand or collapse. Installing items too close to your home will adversely

affect the load-bearing ability of the soil and may cause structural damage to the residence.

EXTERIOR COMPONENTS

Vinyl, Metal & Composite Siding

Most vinyl, metal or composite siding materials do not require refinishing. Metal and composite

siding materials can be repainted. Vinyl siding cannot be repainted. These materials can be kept

clean by washing them with a garden hose, mild detergent and light scrubbing. Never use a

pressure washer to clean the exterior cladding. Excessive water pressure can cause damage to the

surface of the cladding and/or force water into the cavity of the wall. Vinyl and metal siding

materials are installed loosely to allow for expansion and contraction when the outside

temperature varies. Damaged or extremely loose siding should be replaced or fastened as best as

possible to prevent further damage.

Wood Siding

Wood siding and shingles can be cleaned with a mild detergent and a garden hose. Do not use a

pressure washer to clean wood siding as this will damage the surface and force water into the

pores of the wood. Painted wood siding or shingles will generally require repainting or staining

within five years. Variances to wear largely depend on the type and quality of the product and

the exposure to the natural elements.

The siding on your home will require repainting or staining whenever the surface begins to fade,

discolor or peel. Moisture that penetrates into wood siding causes most exterior paint failures.

This moisture may be caused by garden sprinklers, damp shrubbery next to the wall, small cracks

in the siding or from door and window details. Spot repairing affected areas can help extend the

life of the remaining surfaces. Please note that spot touch ups of paint or stain will more than

likely not match that of the existing surface due to fading and weathering.

Siding installed on the south and west elevations may require more frequent repainting or

staining to maintain their original appearance. Proactive maintenance of your home exterior paint

and stain will also help to provide adequate protection for the siding. For best results, follow the

manufacturer’s recommendations for surface preparation.

Decks, handrails and windowsills may require more frequent cleaning and maintenance than

other components of the house. This is due to their horizontal orientation.

Stucco

Stucco consists of a mixture of sand, lime, water and Portland cement. Conventional stucco

applications, including those with an acrylic top finish coat, are not waterproof. The protection

from water penetration comes from the building paper and flashing installed prior to the

application of the first coat of stucco. Stucco does help in shedding water, but it will become

saturated after a prolonged period of rain.

Control joints are installed at each floor to compensate for the movement of the building frame.

Shrinkage of the wood components occurs and hairline cracks may appear in the finish coat after

the drying process is complete. These cracks should be expected and it is suggested that they be

left until near the end of the first year. Repairs can be made at that time, if necessary. Please note

that the repair of the crack is often more unsightly than the original crack. Cracks less than 1/16”

in width do not require repair. Larger cracks should be sealed to prevent water into the wall

assembly.

Most surface dirt on stucco can be cleaned with a garden hose. A pressure washer should never

be used to clean stucco surfaces as considerable damage and excessive water penetration can

occur. Sometimes mildew and moss grows on the shaded surfaces of cladding. A mild solution

of bleach and water may remove this growth.

Masonry

Neither the mortar joints in the brickwork nor the bricks themselves are entirely waterproof. The

mortar joints should be periodically checked for cracks. Hairline cracks are not problematic but

should be repointed to reduce the potential for moisture related problems. Repointing involves

cleaning out loose mortar to a depth of at least ½” and filling the space in with new mortar.

The bottom course of brick contains intentional openings (weep holes) which allow for the

drainage of moisture from the cavity behind the brick. These openings must remain unobstructed

and be a consideration when landscaping.

White dust or staining on the masonry surface is referred to as efflorescence. It is the result of

salts within the masonry or mortar that migrate to the surface of the brick over time. It can

usually be controlled with water and a light scrubbing. More persistent occurrences can be

washed off with muriatic acid or baking soda. If efflorescence continually occurs in a localized

area, the cause may be a specific water source such as a leaking gutter. If this is the case , the

problem should be identified and corrected.

Caulking

Flexible sealing compounds are generally referred to as caulking. Numerous varieties exist and

have many specialized uses. Caulking is generally used to seal gaps between dissimilar materials

on the exterior of the building and to seal gaps or joints in exterior finishes. As the building

moves due to the shrinkage of the building framing members and/or the finishing materials

themselves, considerable stress is placed on the caulking materials. While a caulking joint should

never be the only means of preventing water from entering a building, it is one of the initial

means of keeping water out. Therefore,

caulking requires examination annually before the wet weather arrives. Any cracked or damaged

caulking should be removed and replaced.

When caulking, use a high quality material formulated for your specific purpose. Some varieties

of

caulking are for interior use or cannot be painted. Consult with your builder or local home supply

center for an appropriate product.

Windows

Window glazing is typically made of glass with the exception of some skylights that may use an

acrylic glazing. Current building standards require the use of double glazed, sealed units

mounted in thermally broken frames. There are wide assortments of frame types and the

materials used can vary.

Windows may open in different fashions. They may slide horizontally or vertically, open

outwards like a door or tilt open like an awning. Typical windows require minimal maintenance.

Window hardware should be cleaned and lubricated annually. Any accumulated grime or debris

should be removed from the window frame. Vinyl window tracks can be lubricated with a

silicone spray to ease operation.

Most window designs incorporate a drainage track at the bottom of the window. This track

collects any condensation that runs off of the glazing. These tracks have exterior weep holes to

help drain this moisture. These weep holes must be kept clean and maintained with a short piece

of wire or a cotton swab used to clear the area.

If levels of high relative humidity occur inside your new home during cold weather,

condensation and frost will accumulate on the inside face of the windows. This will become a

ventilation issue and not a failure of the window or seals. Condensation can create mold growth

on the window frame. This problem can be easily controlled with a mild solution of bleach and

water.

Condensation between the layers of glass within the window frame indicates the sealed unit has

failed. This is called glazing and will require replacement as there is no method of repairing

sealed units. If failure of the sealed unit occurs after the expiry of the 12 month warranty, contact

your window supplier as the cost of this repair may be partially borne by the manufacturer.

Acrylic skylight glazing does allow the migration of moisture. This form of skylight usually has

a vent that can be opened to allow for additional airflow between the acrylic glazing units. Check

with your skylight manufacturer for further information if you experience this issue.

Doors

Exterior swing doors are generally made of solid wood, metal, fiberglass or wood over a foam

core. Sliding patio doors are usually constructed with metal or vinyl frames and are supplied by

the window manufacturer. Interior doors are usually a wood veneer over a hollow core. The

bomber door between the garage and the house should have a weather stripping seal and are

sometimes supplied with an automatic door closer. In some cases, the self closing feature is no

longer required by code.

Exterior doors are exposed to weather conditions and extreme variations in temperature. These

changes in weather can harm the surface of the door. Variations in the relative humidity from the

interior to the exterior can also affect the door. Over time, these conditions can cause doors to

warp or change in

dimension. Seasonal variations can occur up to ¼” in any direction. Please refrain from trimming

a binding exterior door as the problem may rectify itself as the climate changes.

Some exterior doors may have color restrictions from the manufacturer. The heat absorbed by

darker colors can sometimes cause failure of the sealing compounds in the glazing and/or cause

excessive warping of the door. The wrong paint color may void the manufacturer’s warranty.

Please review any restrictions from the manufacturer prior to painting an exterior door.

Interior doors are generally sized to allow a gap between the bottom edge and floor covering.

The gap tolerance is 18mm (¾”) and creates the ability for air to circulate beneath the door.

Weather Stripping

Weather stripping is installed around doors and windows to reduce air infiltration. Check the

weather stripping annually in order to confirm proper seal. Some weather stripping is adjustable

and should cause the door to be slightly difficult to latch or lock. Petroleum jelly can be used to

lubricate rubber or vinyl products to maintain their flexibility.

Finish Hardware

The factory finish on exterior locks and door handles will wear with normal use. This is

especially evident with brass finishes in marine environments. To restore this finish, remove the

factory lacquer with a scouring powder and then polish and seal the hardware with a new coat of

clear lacquer. Interior door hardware can be wiped clean with a damp cloth and polished with a

soft dry cloth. It should be noted that natural body oils and many hand lotions are detrimental to

brass finishes and will cause tarnishing.

Door hardware and locks can be lubricated with powdered graphite or light oil.

Decking & Handrails

Decks, balconies and handrails are exposed to rain, snow and sun. Cracking, warping and

splitting wood deck materials are normal. Painted surfaces will chip and peel and should be

touched up annually before the onset of cold, wet weather. Open seams in wood trim should be

sealed with a suitable caulking to prevent water penetration. Be careful not to damage any deck

membranes. Any damage must be cleaned with mild soap and water or repaired immediately.

ROOF & GUTTERS

Roof

If the roof of your new home is sloped, it will typically be surfaced with either asphalt, shakes,

fiberglass or cedar shingles, clay or concrete tile, metal or a composite manufactured product.

Flat or slightly sloped roofs may be surfaced with built-up tar and gravel or torch down sheet

goods. The typical life expectancy of these various roof materials ranges from 10 - 25 years. The

life expectancy of the roof will depend upon the materials used and the care and maintenance

provided.

Loose, broken or missing shingles should be repaired or replaced. Most manufacturer warranties

for shingles do not cover wind damage if the speed exceeded 80 kph (50 mph). Storm related

damage is not the responsibility of the builder. Therefore, maintenance repairs should be made as

soon as possible to prevent leakage. Roof leaks can cause serious damage to the interior of your

new home or further damage to the remainder of the roof.

Asphalt shingles and some roll roofing have granules on their surface. This protects the product

from damage due to ultraviolet radiation from sunlight. If bare areas of the underlayment roof

material are present, they should be protected with additional granules. This material is available

at most roofing material supply stores. These types of roofs will become soft in hot weather. The

top surface can become damaged from people walking over it. Deflection of the sheathing or

lifting the shingles from expansion can cause variations to the surface. Cedar roofing should be

washed annually with a garden hose and any accumulated debris and moss should be removed

from between the shingles or shakes.

The shingles should not be pressure washed as the high water pressure can cause irreparable

damage to the composition of the shingle. Wood roofs become very slippery when wet and

extreme caution must be taken when working on this type of surface. Wood shingles will crack

and split with time. This weathering is generally not a concern unless it causes a roof leak. If a

leak occurs, it should be repaired immediately by installing a piece of flashing under the cracked

shingle. Older wooden roofs are very brittle and traffic on the roof can cause extensive damage

to the shingles.

Flat roofs should be inspected by a professional every two years. All recommended maintenance

should be carried out. They typically have drains and need to have debris removed on a regular

basis. Your drains may overflow. This could indicate heavy rainfall that overwhelms or obstructs

them.

All forms of roofing are intended to shed water and prevent entry into the home. Obstructions

that prevent the free flow of water off of the roof or to a drain can cause leakage or failure of the

roofing material. The roof and ancillary flashings must be kept free of debris and any excessive

accumulations of ice or snow. It is recommended that you annually inspect the roof surface for

excess debris and especially after every heavy windstorm. If coniferous trees surround your

home, they can deposit quantities of debris that could impede the free flow of water run off.

The area beneath the roof surface on all homes will be vented to the outdoors. Sloped roofs

generally have an attic that has vents at the perimeter, gables or at the ridge of the roof. Flat roofs

are also vented. It is crucial to the longevity of the roof to keep your vents unobstructed.

All skylights, plumbing stacks and vents on the roof need to be inspected annually and sealed as

needed.

Ice Dams

Snow melting and freezing on the roof as it runs off at an overhang or eave of the roof can cause

ice damming. Ice dams can cause water to back up under the shingles and will result in internal

leaks. This is a natural occurrence and generally is not considered a building defect.

Snow and ice should be removed from the roof at the eaves and valleys as soon as it is safe to

perform this task.

Gutters & Downspouts

Gutters are not required by all building regulations. Builders may install them at the perimeter of

the roof to control the runoff of rainwater. Gutters also serve as a preventative measure to carry

rainwater away from the foundation. If the gutters or the down downspouts become clogged with

debris or ice, water will collect and cause damage to the home. Keep gutters, roof drains and

downspouts free of all obstructions in order to maintain their efficiency. Inspect your gutters and

downspouts every six months.

STRUCTURE

Foundation

The most common material used in foundation construction is poured concrete. Alternative

methods of construction include masonry block walls and walls constructed of pressure treated

and preserved wood.

It is important to understand that concrete shrinks as it cures. Most concrete flat work may crack

due to the shrinkage and stress to load factors or natural elements. Minor cracks cannot be

avoided in conventional concrete foundations and floors. These cracks have little effect on the

structural integrity of the building.

Hairline cracks in the foundation wall may allow for the entry of water. These cracks can be

repaired from the outside with an asphalt-based sealant. If exterior access is not possible,

numerous concrete patching compounds are available and can be installed to the inside surface of

the wall.

Basement Floor Slabs & Crawl Space Ground Seals

The floors of basement style homes is ‘cast-in-place’ concrete. This surface may not be perfectly

smooth and is generally not intended as a finished floor. As the concrete cures, stress cracks are

common. Cracks will generally form at corners, across doorways and at the perimeter of the

floor. There is generally no structural reason to repair cracks in a concrete floor unless they are

larger than 3mm (1/8”) in width. These cracks can usually be filled with concrete grout.

Concrete floor slabs can be painted. The product used should be alkali resistant as it helps in

continuing the curing process of the concrete. Painted concrete floors often flake or peel and

require continual touch-up.

Efflorescence may appear on areas of the concrete floors and walls. Efflorescence is a white

powder on the surface of concrete which is caused by salts in the mix. It is cosmetic only and can

be removed with a brush. Efflorescence will likely stop once the concrete has had more time to

cure.

A polyethylene vapor barrier is generally installed beneath the concrete floor to help stop the

migration of groundwater. Despite this vapor barrier, some moisture may still transmit into the

concrete. Storage items should be raised up off the floor and away from the walls. This will

allow for the free flow of air and help prevent the growth of mold and mildew. Crawl space

floors are required to have a vapor barrier. This can be a polyethylene barrier weighed down with

rocks, gravel or a skim coat of concrete.

If a concrete skim coat is used, it will generally be lower in strength, roughly finished and will

measure approximately 50mm (2”) thick. The skim coat will likely crack due to its weak strength

and the manner in which it was installed. This is normal and no repair is necessary unless the

cracks exceed 10mm (3/8”) in width.

Wood Frame

The most common method of building the structure of a new home is called western platform

framing. This method incorporates a vertical frame of 2" x 4" or 2" x 6" studs with continuous

plates of the same width at both the top and bottom of the wall. The wall studs are generally on

16 or 24 inch spacing. Plywood, lumber or oriented strand board (OSB) sheathing is used on the

exterior of the frame. The floor “platforms” are constructed using 2" x 8", 2" x 10" or 2" x 12"

floor joists of solid lumber or manufactured floor joists. Plywood or OSB sheathing is screwed

or nailed to the top surface. To help

eliminate squeaks and to provide structural rigidity, glue is often applied to the top of the floor

joist prior to the installation of the floor sheathing.

The interior and exterior walls of the structure and/or the perimeter foundation wall generally

support the floor joists. For space considerations, beams constructed of several joists nailed

together, or engineered wood products, may be used to support the joists in lieu of a wall. For

larger loads or longer spans, a special manufactured beam may be used. Posts at intermediate

locations may support these beams.

Most roofs are constructed using prefabricated wood trusses that are spaced 600mm (24”) apart.

Detailed roof structures may be framed by hand using roof rafters and ceiling joists. Trusses are

capable of spanning large distances while carrying considerable weight. It is likely that the

interior walls on the top floor of your home carry no roof loads. That load is only supported by

the exterior walls.

The wood used to construct your new home will shrink as it dries out after installation. This

shrinkage will cause minor changes in the size and the shape of the wood members. These

changes do not affect the structural integrity of the wood frame, but may cause changes in the

finishes used throughout your new home. The most common changes you might see are ceiling

and wall cracks or nail pops in the finished surfaces of the drywall. The movement that results

from the shrinkage of the structure may also impact other finishes such as flooring and wood

trims.

Minor floor squeaks may occur and doors may begin to bind. Any necessary repairs should be

postponed until towards the end of the first year. This will allow for the majority of the wood

shrinkage to occur.

INTERIOR FINISHES

FLOOR FINISHES

Hardwood

Kiln dried material is used for the construction of hardwood floors. These materials are

susceptible to movement caused by variations of interior humidity levels. Low humidity levels

will cause the wood floor to separate slightly at the seams. High humidity levels will cause the

wood to expand. Expansion may lead to cupping or swelling in the center of the board. These

movements can be somewhat controlled by monitoring the indoor moisture levels. The

movement of the flooring may also create noises as it expands and contracts.

The appearance of hardwood flooring should be protected from furniture scratches, water

damage and surface wear. Hardwood floors should be swept or vacuumed regularly. A damp

mop should be used sparingly with a mixture of ¼ cup white vinegar and 1 gallon of water.

There is no need for wax on the hardwood floors.

Resilient Flooring

Resilient flooring such as tile or sheet products can be damaged from indentations or scratches.

The floor should be protected from such damage by using furniture pads beneath heavy legs. It is

best to lift furniture rather than sliding it across these surfaces. Damage to flooring surfaces

caused by these types of actions is not a warrantable issue.

Resilient flooring should be cleaned with warm water and vinegar. Harsh cleaners can cause

fading or adversely affect the composition of the flooring material. Consult with the supplier of

your product for their recommendations on cleaning and restoration of your particular floor.

Shrinkage can cause movement of the floor structure. Flooring installers applied filler at the

seams of the underlayment. It is not always possible to achieve and retain a perfectly level sub-

floor Minor ridges can appear under certain light. Generally, these are only cosmetic and do not

require any action.

Carpet

Carpet care generally consists of avoiding spills, cleaning high traffic areas and vacuuming the

entire carpet on a weekly basis. Consult your flooring supplier for the specific cleaning and

maintenance requirements. Carpets and rugs should be professionally cleaned every year or two

depending on the use and appearance.

Less expensive carpet is more susceptible to matting. This is primarily noticeable in high traffic

areas and can only be prevented by the use of carpet runners. Warranties from the carpet

manufacturer generally only pertain to fiber loss and do not usually cover the retention of its

appearance.

Ceramic Tile

Ceramic tile is very durable. Use a mild detergent for routine cleaning. Do not use waxes or

sealers. Grout is porous and will absorb water. Coat the grout joints with a clear liquid silicone

sealer in order to prevent staining and discoloration. The tile grout in your new home will not be

sealed when you move in. It is recommended that the homeowner seal the grout prior to use.

Marble, Granite & Other Natural Stone

Spills can permanently stain natural marble. All spills should be cleaned up immediately.

Cleaning of marble should be done with warm water and a clean, soft cloth. Scratches should

also be addressed immediately. Preventative care such as sealing the stone surface is advised.

Sealers are available at your local hardware store for natural stone products.

Please be aware!! Some sealers may change the appearance of your stone products. Read the

instructions and warnings on any products prior to application.

COUNTERTOPS & CABINETS

Plastic Laminates

Laminated counter tops will burn or delaminate if hot pots or pans are placed directly on the

surface. Protective pot holders should be used if heated items are to be placed on the counter top

Electrical appliances may also require protection when they are in use. The damage caused by

hot items is generally not repairable. Abrasive cleaners or steel wool may scratch the surface and

should not be used. Household bleach or solvents can stain or discolor laminate surfaces.

Water must not be allowed to remain on joints on the counter top This will result in the substrate

of the counter top to swell. This damage is irreversible. Clean the surface of plastic laminates

with a damp, soapy cloth or sponge. For stubborn stains, use a mild household cleaner and rinse

thoroughly with clean water. Be aware that some liquid cleaners contain abrasives and may

solidify at the opening of the container. These hard, solid pieces can scratch the surface if they

accidentally get on the cleaning cloth or sponge.

Manufactured Marble

Sinks and counter tops made from manufactured marble or other man-made materials often have

specific cleaning requirements. The manufacturer of the products should be contacted for

cleaning instructions. Generally, they can be cared for in the same manner as plastic laminates.

Abrasive cleaners should not be used. In addition, these surfaces are heat sensitive.

Cabinets

Vinyl surfaced cabinets are very susceptible to heat damage. If the kitchen is equipped with a

self-cleaning oven, the cabinet drawers and doors near the range should be kept open when the

appliance is in the self-clean mode. This will allow any excessive heat to quickly dissipate. If

heat is allowed to build up, the surface may delaminate. This precaution should also be taken

when the oven is used at a high temperature for any prolonged period.

Most cabinet surfaces can be cleaned using a damp cloth and a mild detergent. Abrasive cleaners

should not be used. Grease splattered on the surfaces should be removed immediately as it

becomes more difficult to remove when solidified.

Paint

The majority of the interior drywall surfaces of your new home will be finished with either a

latex (water-based) or alkyd (oil-based) paint. Maintain the interior walls by gently washing the

painted surfaces with a mild soap or detergent solution. Abrasive solutions or excessive

scrubbing should be avoided as they will remove the paint.

PLUMBING

General

The plumbing in your new home will likely consist of plastic or copper piping for the supply of

potable water and plastic piping (PVC) for the waste disposal. Other products are available but

are less common.

A main water supply shut off valve has been provided to your new home. This can be used in the

event of an emergency. Additional shut off valves may also have been provided to the sink

supply lines and toilets.

The waste lines have been provided with clean-outs throughout the residence. These may be

located within cabinets, inside closets or clearly visible on a wall surface. These clean-outs must

remain accessible if any waste line blockage occurs.

P-traps are present at the outflow of all waste piping. These traps are designed to provide a

barrier of water and prevents the entry of sewer gases into the home. Sinks or drains which are

seldom used may lose this water barrier due to evaporation. If sewer gases are detected, run

water down the waste pipe. It will prime the trap again and likely stop the odor. Any waste

materials such as grease, fat and petroleum products should not be placed down into the

plumbing system. These materials will accumulate in the piping and can significantly reduce the

flow of water through the waste system.

Waste substances are also very detrimental to the municipal sewage and private septic treatment

systems. If your home is on a septic system, the use of bleach as a cleaner should also be kept to

a minimum. Excessive bleach can kill off the bacterium that is critical to the operation of the

septic system.

Fixtures

The surfaces of the plumbing fixtures are susceptible to damage from abrasive cleaners. Use of

abrasive products and steel wool pads will cause the finish of the fixture to become dull and

porous. Refer to the manufacturer's recommended maintenance procedures for information

relating to your fixtures. Plumbing fixtures are intended for normal household use only. Caustic

products should not be disposed of into any household fixtures.

Hot Water Tank

The temperature of the hot water can be adjusted at the thermostat located on the tank. This may

require the use of a screwdriver. The hottest setting for the water temperature is 120 deg. F. This

temperature is hot enough for most uses but will not cause scalding or burns. If the house is to

remain unoccupied for a substantial period of time, the water temperature should be turned

down, switched off at the tank or circuit shut down at the breaker panel. Some hot water tanks

have a “vacation” setting on the thermostat for this purpose.

Hot water tanks are equipped with a pressure relief valve at the top of the tank. This is a safety

feature that will open and relieve water pressure if the tank exceeds its rated working pressure. If

water or stains are evident at the discharge pipe leading from the relief valve, contact a plumber.

This is an indication that the normal operating pressure of the tank has been exceeded.

The typical hot water tank has a life expectancy of 8 to 12 years. Periodic draining of the tank

will remove sediment and help prolong its life. The sediment creates an insulating effect which

causes heating elements to operate longer than necessary. This condition will increase the

overall cost and amount of energy consumption.

Prior to draining water from the tank, turn off the power supply or fuel source. Do not restore

power to the tank until it has been refilled. Doing so may cause the tank to explode due to

excessive pressure. The tank can be emptied by attaching a garden hose to the outflow drain at

the base of the tank. Keep the hose lower than the tank and route it to a drain or outside the

home.

Hose Bibs

Hose bibs (garden hose connections) often have a shut off valve inside the house. The hose

connection can be drained from the inside before winter arrives with its freezing temperatures.

These shut off valves should be identified and not used during winter months. The exterior valve

should be opened only after shutting off the water supply valve. This will allow the exterior

portion of the piping to drain. This process is reversed in the spring once the threat of freezing

temperatures are gone.

Some hose bibs are considered "frost free". This means that the valve is connected to a long stem

and allows the water to be shut off inside the home structure. The outer portion of the piping then

drains freely. Garden hoses should not be left connected to the hose bib during freezing weather.

Ice forms in the hose due to the undrained water. The hose or the hose bib will cause the supply

pipe to freeze.

Toilets

Toilets generally refill as follows: flush causes water in the tank to rise, which in turn lifts a ball

float to a preset water level. Once the ball float reaches this level, the water flow valve is shut

off. If set too high, the water level will rise in the tank and run down the overflow pipe. Water

then runs into the toilet bowl without shutting off the water. A simple fix is to adjust the height

of the ball float so that the water is shut off before it reaches the height of the overflow outlet.

If water continuously runs into the toilet bowl from the tank, there may be a poor seal at the

flapper valve at the base of the tank. This seal can be cleaned with a stiff brush or steel wool. A

worn flapper valve would require replacement.

Water dripping from the base of the toilet tank is likely due to condensation on the tank. High

interior humidity levels will result in condensation on the cold surface of the toilet tank.

Some toilets and basins are made of glazed and kiln-fired vitreous china. Other basins and

bathtubs are made of enameled steel. Both are very durable and attractive. To clean these

fixtures, use mild powdered or liquid cleaners. Avoid abrasive cleaners or pads as they will

damage the finish.

Plugged Toilets & Drains

Toilets are very susceptible to blockage. New toilet designs use very little water per flush. The

result is a lower volume of water carrying away the waste. Repeated flushing may be required in

some instances to remove solid waste. Dense tissue paper and some thick toilet papers are

unsuitable for these toilets.

Never dispose of hair, grease, lint, diapers, sanitary products, Q-tips, or plastic into the toilet.

Hair, grease, large food particles or other solid forms of waste can plug your drains. Remove the

debris from the drain trap beneath the fixture.

Plungers are a great tool for forcing solid debris from drains. Once the drains partially clear, hot

water can be used to complete the job. It is recommended you do not use commercial drain

cleaners as some are very corrosive and harmful to your pipes and plumbing. A more severe

blockage may require a plumber.

Tub & Shower Enclosures

A shower curtain will prevent water from running onto the bathroom floor. To prevent damage

to the floors and walls, water should be cleaned up immediately.

Caulking is used to seal seams and prevent water from penetrating behind the enclosure. Any

gaps or separations around your bathtub, wall tiles or wall enclosure should be filled

immediately with sealer or caulking compound. Leaving the gap unsealed may cause serious

water damage to adjacent materials.

You should apply a clear liquid silicone sealer to the finished tiles at the grout joints of the tub or

shower

enclosures. Sealer is used to prevent the porous grout from allowing water to seep through to the

substrate material behind the tile. This sealing cannot be done until the grout has cured for

approximately six to eight weeks. Please note, this is a liquid product and should not be confused

with silicon based caulking. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for application. We

recommend sealing every six months.

Some tub enclosures have specific cleaning requirements. Generally, abrasive cleaners and harsh

chemical cleaners are not recommended. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for

maintenance.

Floor Drains

Many municipalities require a floor drain primer. This primer automatically provides water for

the P-trap which is located below the floor surface. The P-trap is similar to those used under

sinks and helps form a seal against gases entering into the home from the sewer system. Pour a

liter of water down the drain every two to three months if an automatic primer is not present.

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

General

The electrical system in your home has been installed in accordance with the requirements of the

provincial electrical code. The power supply is fed to the home via underground or overhead

cable. Care should be taken when digging on your property due to underground service cables,

piping and gas lines. For information on these underground services, contact your utility

provider, cable supplier or your local building department.

Circuit breakers provide electrical protection and are located in the electrical panel. The main

power shut-off will be located inside the electrical panel or immediately adjacent to it. This panel

and the location of the main breaker should be located upon moving in and before an emergency

occurs.

Overloading an electrical circuit or a short in an appliance cord can cause a breaker to trip.

Starting up an electric motor of an appliance can also temporarily overload a circuit. To correct

tripped breakers, isolate the cause of the overload or short and disconnect the unit. The circuit

breaker can then be reset by turning it to the "off" position and then to the "on" position. If the

breaker continually trips, contact

an electrician.

G.F.C.I. Circuits

A Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (G.F.C.I.) is an additional electrical safety device. This device

is a breaker that is designed to provide protection from ground faults. The G.F.C.I. is extremely

sensitive and will trip if grounding of the electrical current is detected.

Ground faults usually occur in older appliances, inexpensive extension cords and electrical

equipment. A poorly insulated extension cord laying on wet ground will often cause a ground

fault. Water and electricity are a poor combination.

G.F.C.I. protection is installed to the outlets in the bathroom, kitchen and outdoor areas. If this

breaker trips, unplug the source of the ground fault and reset the breaker either at the panel or at

the outlet itself.

G.F.C.I. outlets should be tested monthly to ensure they are working properly.

Smoke & Fire Detectors

Smoke detectors have been installed in accordance with the requirements of the Building Code.

They should be tested monthly to ensure proper operation and cleaned twice a year with a

vacuum.

Please note that these devices are connected directly to the electrical system of the home. Smoke

detectors also require batteries as an added precaution in case of a power failure. Batteries should

be replaced at least twice each year.

HEATING & VENTILATION

Heating

There are numerous types of thermostat controls for heating systems. The accuracy of these

controls can vary due to a continued demand for heat. Adjusting a thermostat to a setting higher

than the temperature desired will not speed the rise in temperature.

The various heating systems available all have specific requirements for maintenance in order to

operate at maximum efficiency. The operation of your specific system is best determined by

reviewing the instructions provided by your builder or the manufacturer.

Heating systems can be noisy at times due to the expansion and contraction of the pipes and

other components. Noises are most noticeable at the start up or cooling phases of a cycles. These

noises do not affect the performance of the system.

Systems that rely on burning fuel to generate heat require air for combustion. The air supply

must not be blocked or restricted as a dangerous backdraft condition can occur.

Heating systems will not operate unless the thermostat setting is higher than the room

temperature. Solar heat gains can warm a room or area above the thermostat setting. The heating

system will then remain turned off and other rooms not affected by the heat of the sun can

become cool.

Furniture or floor coverings must not block the free flow of air at the heat outlets and cold air

returns in a forced air system. In addition, the filters must be cleaned or replaced at least twice a

year. This will allow the unobstructed flow of air through the furnace. Proper maintenance of the

filter dramatically affects the performance and air quality of the system.

Ventilation, Condensation & Relative Humidity

The optimum year round humidity level within the residence is approximately 50%. Due to

seasonal variations of the relative humidity, 50% humidity can be difficult to maintain without

the use of specialized mechanical equipment. Furnace humidifiers that add moisture to the indoor

environment are available. They must be checked frequently to ensure that proper water level is

maintained.

Building Code requires the exterior envelope of the structure be sealed against incidental air

leakage. Sealing of the exterior walls prohibit leakage of warm air outside the residence. Warm

air has the ability to hold more moisture than cold air. Daily activities such as showering, boiling

water and respiration create moisture in the air. Surprisingly, four occupants within a home can

cause 1½ to 2 gallons of moisture per day. Warm air suspends this water until it comes into

contact with a cold surface. Condensation will form on these surfaces and will fuel the creation

of mold and mildew.

Your builder has installed a system called THE WHOLE HOUSE FAN. This fan system meets

building codes and assures your ability to have proper house ventilation. The failure of an owner

to properly ventilate and maintain heating levels can seriously affect a new home and the health

of its occupants. Damage caused by the failure to maintain this system properly by the owner

would not be covered under the warranty.

The key to controlling humidity levels within the home and avoiding condensation is to provide

adequate ventilation. Ventilation allows warm air to be exhausted from the home and replaced

with cool air from outside. Ventilation is often the only effective means for removing moisture

from the air.

Windows or the tanks of the toilets are the best indicators in determining proper relative

humidity and ventilation is being maintained. Increase the ventilation when condensation occurs

on the inside window surfaces or the toilet tanks. Use of a dehumidifier is practical in limited

areas and when you are experiencing an extreme air moisture issue.

Fans in the kitchen and bathroom will also remove moisture during cooking and bathing. These

fans should not exhaust into the attic space as this will become trapped and cause moisture

problems. Run the fans before, during and after activities that create any moisture in the air.

Many builders provide intermittent timer controls in new homes. These timers regulate the

operation of fans and should never be tampered with or turned off.

Windows are another effective means of ventilation. Opening a window while a fan is in

operation allows for cross ventilation. This will also create a more effective way to remove

moisture and odor from the home.

Range Hoods & Exhaust Fans

Range hoods and exhaust fans are provided to reduce or eliminate cooking odors and excess

moisture. Not all range hoods vent directly outdoors. For efficient operation and reducing

potential fire hazards, filters should be washed by hand in mild detergent or run through a

dishwasher.

Appliances

Any appliances installed with the purchase of your new home will have been tested and checked

by the builder or subcontractor for proper operation.

New appliances generally come with instructions and detail the operating procedures for the

appliance. These instructions must be followed in order to maintain the manufacturer's warranty.

Any warranty cards provided with the equipment should be completed and sent to the

manufacturer as soon as possible.

Inspect and clean the exterior vents of your dryer on a monthly basis. They commonly become

plugged with lint which reduces the efficiency of the dryer and can also become a fire hazard.

HOME MAINTENANCE CHECKLIST:

SPRING

● Activate Exterior Hose Bibs

● Fertilize Lawns

● Clean Windows and Repair Screens

● Unclog and Secure Gutters and Downspouts

● Check Grade Around Foundation

● Test Sump Pump

● Inspect and Maintain Laundry Room

● Treat Nesting Bees

● Test G.F.C.I. Outlets

● Change Furnace Filters

● Change Batteries in Carbon Monoxide and Smoke Detectors

SUMMER

● Provide Fence Maintenance

● Clean and Care for Deck

● Clean Exterior Siding

● Check Crawl Space

● Maintain Yard Growth

● Test and Lubricate Garage Door

● Remove Rust on Railings

● Check and Flush Water Heater

● Check Skylights

● Clean Shower Heads

● Change Furnace Filters

● Test Carbon Monoxide and Smoke Detectors

● Test G.F.C.I. Outlets

FALL

● Clean Out Gutters

● Check and Seal Windows

● Change Batteries in Programmable Thermostat

● Service Heating System

● Close Critter Entrances

● Shut Off Hose Bibs

● Check and Maintain Dishwasher

● Clean Outdoor Drains

● Check Toilets

● Clear Out Sink Drains

● Test G.F.C.I. Outlets

● Test Carbon Monoxide and Smoke Detectors

WINTER

● Check and Repair Weather Stripping

● Inspect Furnace Is Operational

● Change Furnace Filters

● Vacuum Air Registers

● Re-Caulk Bathtub

● Maintain Fireplace and Chimney

● Check Crawl Space

● Replenish Flashlight Batteries

● Test G.F.C.I. Outlets

● Prevent Ice Buildup On Roofing and Gutters

● Remove Hose From Bib

● Shut Off Exterior Water Valves (If Applicable)

● Test Carbon Monoxide and Smoke Detectors

PERIODIC

● Pressure Wash Deck

● Pressure Wash Siding

● Check and Maintain Roof Shingles

● Check Flashing

● Lubricate Door Hinges and Hardware

● Vacuum ‘Hard To Reach’ Spots

● Inspect Caulking Areas (Caulk As Necessary)

● Verify Easy Access To Emergency Shut-offs

● Verify Attic and Crawl Space Ventilation Is Not Obstructed