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FEB. 2014 S – 15

EXHIBITORS, FORUMS,EVENTS, TRENDS

PRESS CONTACT AURÉLIE METHARAM

AMETHARAM@SICGROUP.COM

PRESS KIT

PRESSKIT

EXHBITORS, FORUMS,EVENTS, TRENDS

PRESS CONTACTAURELIE METHARAM

AMETHARAM@SICGROUP.COM

S-15TRENDS S15 © AGENCE POLYPHÈME FORUM INCUBE © RFBG CONSEILTRANSLATION © LANGUEDOC TRANSLATION

3–

4 THE SHOW4 THE SHOW5 THE SHOW IN FIGURES6 NEW EXHIBITORS

9 FASHION9 TRENDS S1510 WELCOME TO THE ILLUSION DOME11 SENTIMENTALIST13 IDEALISTIC15 TECHNICAL17 CRAFT & GREEN19 PSYCHEDELIC21 AQUATIC23 COLOUR RANGE

24 EVENTS25 INCUBE26 THE INNOVATIONS

28 BESPOKE29 THOMASINE GLOVES 30 SOPHIE MARIONNET31 ATELIER DU RENARD32 EMMANUELLE HEGARET33 COCOASHOES34 AMY CUIR

35 IFM36 THE CLASS OF 2013

37 GLOVES EXHIBITION

CONTENT

THESHOW

THE SHOW P.4 > P.8

THE SHOW

5

THE SHOW

THE FIGURES

THE SHOW IN FIGURES

BREAKDOWN % BY COUNTRY

THE TOP THREE61 Italy | 15 France | 9 Spain

11 OTHER EUROPEAN COUNTRIESTurkey, Portugal, Germany, Netherlands, England, Belgium, Iceland, Denmark, Switzerland

4 OTHER INTERNATIONAL COUNTRIESBrazil, India, South Africa, United-States, Pakistan, Colombia, Mexico, Singapore, Tunisia

BREAKDOWN % BY SECTOR

58 Finished Leathers9 Textiles and Synthetics8 Exotic Leathers7 Components4 Furs4 Leather Garments4 Raw hides and Skins3 Services, Press, Associations3 Chemical Products

375 EXHIBITORS27 NEW+ 11,6%FEB.13

6

THE SHOW

NEW EXHIBITORS

NEWEXHIBITORSALVIN PELLI BY U.RUSSO WWW.ALVINPELLI.IT ITALY A82

CONCERIA ARBOR WWW.CONCERIAARBOR.IT ITALY H52

CONCERIA ERREPI - ITALY A44

CONCERIA ORACLE - ITALY H73

CONCERIA POKER WWW.CONCERIAPOKERSAS.COM ITALY B66

CONCERIA U.RUSSO WWW.UMBERTORUSSO.IT ITALY A82

FORROPIEL WWW.PUSIPIEL.ES SPAIN D10

L.I.P. TRADING AND ENGINEERING - ITALY H34

MARINELLI WALTER - ITALY D12

MOTTA PELLI SRL WWW.MOTTAPELLI.191.IT ITALY G86

PELLAMI DUE C SPA - ITALY H54

SC TANNERY - ITALY H56

SI.DE.PEL SPA - ITALY H89

TENERIA VARGAS WWW.TENERIAVARGAS.COM MEXICO H79

LEATHER

ALEMPLAST SRL WWW.ALEMPLAST.COM ITALY A58

BRAND WAY SRL WWW.BRANDWAY.IT ITALY B57

FAIT ADRIATICA SPA WWW.FAITADRIATICA.IT ITALY B55

RESIMOL - SPAIN D42

TACONES GAMAR S.L WWW.TACONESGAMAR.COM SPAIN H45

SACE COMPONENTS SRL WWW.SACECOMPONENTS.COM ITALY A54

COMPONENT

CODYECO WWW.CODYECO.IT ITALY B47

GIARDINI DI GIARDINI ANGELO & C.SNC WWW.GIARDINIGROUP.IT ITALY B52

UNITERS SPA WWW.UNITERS.COM ITALY A51

CHEMICAL PRODUCT

7NEW EXHIBITORS

THE SHOW

MAFFEI G.SRL WWW.MAFFEICONCERIA.COM ITALY C16

RAW HIDES AND SKINS

TEXPELL SRL WWW.TEXPELL.IT ITALY H42

TEXTILE

MACOPEL SRL - ITALY H80

LEATHER GARMENTS

A+A DESIGN STUDIO SRL WWW.AADESIGNSTUDIO.IT ITALY H88

SERVICE

8NEW EXHIBITORS

THE SHOW

CONCERIA ERREPI

BRAND WAY SRL

PELLAMI DUE C SPA

L.I.P. TRADING AND ENGINEERING

CONCERIA POKER

T R EN DS

TRENDS P.9 > P.23

TRENDS

10WELCOME TO THE ILLUSION DOME!

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A false material or moral appearance that, by making us see things differently to how they are, seems to play with our senses.

The season plays with "mise en abime" and lines up a succession of "This is not...!". Trompe-l'oeil and collective hallucinations make our heads spin...Creation takes inspiration from the unreal and the strange, but disguises it with normality to better mislead the universe and allow the unexpected to surge forth. We try to escape from a world of sterile reflexes, in search of strangeness. From the smooth surfaces and silhouettes showcased by the design and fashion of the moment will emerge intriguing anomalies, imperceptibles at first glance.

What character is hiding behind that nice boy or that too perfect blonde?What is the intention of the artist who has designed this neo-classical peristyle whose pediment trembles?Why has this ordinary household object suddenly morphed into an arty installation?How do we make the visible invisible, the invisible visible and make the immaterial material?How do we shatter our codes of understanding and open our minds to a new imagination?

Maybe we just need to be gently led towards the magic of parallel universes.

11SENTIMENTALIST

TRENDS S15FASHION

SENTIMENTALIST ILLUSION

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Prettily elegant.

Colours are acidic; bleached mandarin, ruffled chick, celadon blue, mint green, but a-grey-mauve upsets the balance.

Facetious gnomes cast a spell on innocent and sweet lovers. Evanescent silhouettes become literally ghostlike.

Characters go by pairs, hand-in-hand. Is this to get through the looking-glass quicker?

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Materials are simple or ambivalent; cotton knit on intangible lamb leather. Spinnaker and powder-puff thread, flattened grain on a porcelain or plastic-coated surface, flowers mixed with manga designs.

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MATERIALFAVOURITES

SENTIMENTALIST ILLUSIONChildlike joy and inspired modestyFields of daisies, delicate tracery, seersucker relief. Diaphanous colours of summer insects, dragonfly wings, porcelain, water lizard.

FEDI SILVANO MEGISSERIE LAURET

GUARDOLIFICIO BRM MOTTA ALFREDO

PELLICAN TRENDITEX

13IDEALISTIC

TRENDS S15FASHION

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Decolouration. Colours are modified by the air and the reflections of the sky and water. Ethereal colours of clouds, of shores, bleached by the dawn light.

The marketing of new minimalism oversells rigour. Under pressure and looking for balance, we feed on neoclassical references. But pure lines and the quest for the perfect beauty of the golden section suffer from an irrepressible urge for imperfection, a leaning towards the distortion of lines and volumes. Perspectives are skewed and mirror effects increase the impression of unreality.

Waxed colours seem lacquered while patents are sandy.

Satin materials have iridescent highlights.

Geometric embossing, destructured pleats.

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14IDEALISTIC

TRENDS S15FASHION

MATERIALFAVOURITES

IDEALISTIC ILLUSIONDelicacy and perfectionNappa and lambskin with a damask finish in the style of antique linen, fragile kidskin, summer suede. Jostled geometry, sandy textures, micro designs and subtle mother-of-pearling.Albino shades, mineral colours, transparency.

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15TECHNICAL

TRENDS S15FASHION

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Mechanical. Colours are rhythmical and limited; iron grey, scraped rust, bakelite yellow, burgundy formica.

We have fun with technology, a pretext for derision. Machines pile up and become wallpaper stuck on the walls of houses. Our life is a "Work in Progress", a major installation that is never completed.

Materials take inspiration from industrial vocabulary.Metallic lino, with the texture of an iron file, rubbery aspects, metallic pull-up, automatic perforations. Rubbed surfaces, abraded by the friction of the machines.

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16TECHNICAL

TRENDS S15FASHION

MATERIALFAVOURITES

TECHNICAL ILLUSIONIndustrial vocabularySurfaces are abraded, rubbed, skinned. Mechanical grains and perforations.Metallised brush-off leather, impeccable waxes. Extreme mattness and rubbery texture, the look and texture of paper.Neutral and technical colours, iron filings, toolbox red, Bakelite yellow, binder black.

CONCERIA CARAVAGGIO FALCO PELLAMI

TANNERIES D'ANNONAY DALLAS

17CRAFT & GREEN

TRENDS S15FASHION

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Neutrals.The palette is almost colour-free. The obvious neutrals are softened by a blotting-paper pink, enlivened by an intellectual green.

Nature and waste as the pivots of contemporary art. Between futurism and nostalgia, artists seem to want to bind together the past and the present. They create giant, organic sculptures with the tree as their symbol. They pile up rubbish bags in deserted factories which rise like a roar of protest.

Materials like to play at resemblances: fake wood, leather and tissue paper, double sided felt. Skins are often washed and washed-out. Vegetable leather receives new treatments and new colours.

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18CRAFT & GREEN

TRENDS S15FASHION

MATERIALFAVOURITES

CRAFT & GREEN ILLUSIONNature encourages its imitators Vegetable leather, natural finishes, influences from textile and faux.Waffled cottons line waxed hides. The fur of small animals migrates towards surfaces. Colours of yellowed grass, willow bark, almond glue, grey card and faded pink blotting paper.

FEDI SILVANO JUAN POVEDA

JACOBS OFFICINA DELLE PELLI

19PSYCHEDELIC

TRENDS S15FASHION

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Saturation. The ultra-pigmentary palette is a jumble, dull and worrying. Dark purples rub shoulders with burnt red and fiery orange.

Meditation goes further east and tends towards well-being. An hypnotic and dreamlike ritual is imposed whilst awaiting the revelation. Exuberant flowers create a bad spirit, are prey to hallucinations; they tend to be venomous-even deadly.

Heavy leathers are embossed and nubucked, grains engraved deep in the material, greased leather, re-dyed vegetable leather, dampened agave.

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20PSYCHEDELIC

TRENDS S15FASHION

MATERIALFAVOURITES

PSYCHEDELIC ILLUSIONVisual emphasis and the mystery of the deep jungleSophisticated rusticity: buffalo is coloured, its grain exaggerated, camouflages of exotic flowers, eccentric scales, saurian shells.Chameleon colours, spicy pigments, summer darks.

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21AQUATIC

TRENDS S15FASHION

Shades. Abyssal blue becomes watery to the extent of transparency. Turquoise is covered with white. Yellow oxidises and takes on an acid green colour.

Underwater, a mysterious world is in motion. Mythical creatures, submerged islands, underwater cities, seaweed and hair tangled with endangered coral.Fossilised treasure, forgotten by wreckers. Sediments of civilisations; a quixotic and worrying universe.

Glazed surfaces, to be read as transparent. Slippery textures, glistening scales, iridescent highlights, evanescent materials, bleached by the salt, worn by the wind. Light designs, watercoloured, in filigree.

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22AQUATIC

TRENDS S15FASHION

MATERIALFAVOURITES

AQUATIC ILLUSION Aquatic inventory

Textures are damp, consistent, deep. Outpouring of fish and water snakes.

Nautical shine: ultra matt rubs shoulders with subtle lamé and revitalises galuchat grains and nubuck crocodile.

Sky blue, celadon green, deep blue, turquoise and petrol shades unfold along the shore.

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23COLOUR RANGE

TRENDS S15FASHION

COLOURS S15

LÉZARD D'EAU - 557 C - 15-6120 TPX

CAMPANULE - 5215 C - 16-1707 TPX

SENTIMENTALIST

KUMQUAT - 1375 C - 14-1050 TPX

IDEALISTIC TECHNICAL

POUSSIN - 113 C - 12-0738 TPX

LIBELLULE - 630 C - 14-4814 TPX

ALBINOS - 7528 C - 13-0403 TPX

OPALINE - 537 C - 14-4110 TPX

PIERRE DE LUNE - COOL GRAY 1 C - 12-4302 TPX

MARBRE - 422 C - 15-4306 TPX

ROSE DES SABLES - 4685 C - 14-1113 TPX

BAKÉLITE - 728 C - 15-1231 TPX

LIMAILLE - 446 C - 18-0503 TPX

CLASSEUR - BLACK 7 C - 19-0000 TPX

FORMICA - 5195 C - 18-1411 TPX

OUTIL - 492 C - 18-1648 TPX

PSYCHEDELIC

RAFFLÉSIA - 504 C - 19-1522 TPX

PASSIFLORE - 2587 C - 18-3633 TPX

BAT ORCHID - 669 C - 19-3720 TPX

OISEAU DU PARADIS - 7414 C - 16-1443 TPX

BAOBAB - 426 C - 19-4203 TPX

CAMÉLÉON - BLACK 6 C/5467 C -19-4305 TPX/19-5406 TPX

CRAFT & GREEN

CARDBOARD - 409 C - 17-1506 TPX

ARBOUSIER - 5825 C - 17-0535 TPX

COLLE JAUNE - 4685 C - 15-1218 TPX

BUVARD - 691 C - 14-1506 TPX

ORME - 7532 C - 18-1314 TPX

CADAPACK - COOL GRAY 5 C - 15-4503 TPX

AQUATIC

EXOCET - 10282 C - 16-4725 TPX/12-5508 TPX

ESTURGEON - 623 C - 14-5706 TPX

PARAMBASSIS - TRANSPARENT

ABYSSES - 533 C - 19-3925 TPX

POMACANTHUS - 7476 C - 18-4522 TPX

CENTROPYGE - 585 C - 13-0632 TPX

THE EVENTS

E V EN TSEVENTS P.24 > P.37

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INC U B E

INCUBE

EVENTS INCUBE

THE INCUBE FORUM IS INSPIRED BY THE DESIRE TO PROMOTE THE RESEARCH, CREATIVITY, EXPERTISE AND TECHNIQUES EMPLOYED BY THE TANNERS AND THE MANUFACTURERS PRESENT AT THE SHOW.

INCUBE IS AT THE HEART OF A CROSS-DISCIPLINARY PROSPECTIVE PROCESS, WHICH MONITORS, IDENTIFIES AND SELECTS THE SIGNS FROM THE CONTEMPORARY DESIGN SCENE THAT INDICATE WHAT WILL INFLUENCE THE DESIGN OF TOMORROW.

INCUBE INSPIRES, STIMULATES AND GUIDES TANNERS IN THEIR EXPLORATION OF NEW TERRITORIES, PROVIDES IMPETUS FOR THE DEVELOPMENT OF PERTINENT AND BOLD MATERIALS.

For the February 2014 edition, Incube is even more firmly anchored towards research.

It invites visitors with its minimalist and technological atmosphere, showcasing the latest leather innovations and confirming the trends that emerged in the previous season.

Loyal to the Neo-lab spirit in which it was created, this season’s Incube forum is bathed in light to exhibit the latest leathers on supports that evoke ceramic and glass in an extremely contemporary style.

RESISTANT: Technique, colour, light, heat, thermosetting...PRATICAL: Waterproofing, antibacterian, crease-proof...SENSIBLE: Heat-sensitive, heat-burnished, perfumed...TEXTURE: Rubber, elastic, paper, double-sided, blown...

26INCUBE

INCUBEFASHION

PRATICAL

DINEX

RESISTANT

KEMAS CONCERIA DEL CHIENTI

CONCERIA STEFANIA

CONCERIA STEFANIA

CHIMONT GROUP

27INCUBE

INCUBEFASHION

SENSIBLETEXTURE

AUCO CHEM

KEMAS TANNERIES DU PUY

CAPONI GIUSEPPEKEMAS

WE LIKE IT A LITTLE, A LOT, MADLY, PASSIONATELY.LEATHER IS EVERYWHERE. FROM DESIGNER FURNITURE TO WALL COVERINGS, FROM HANDBAGS TO HIGH HEELS, IT IS THE FAVOURITE MATERIAL FOR FASHION AND INTERIORS. WHETHER EXPERIENCED PROFESSIONALS OR NEWCOMERS, TEN TALENTED COMPANIES HANDLE IT WITH CONSUMMATE SKILL TO MEET THE MOST CHALLENGING ORDERS AND THEY INVITE YOU TO VISIT THEM DURING THE FIFTH EDITIONOF BESPOKE BY CUIR A PARIS.

BESPOKE: THE TAILOR-MADEP.29 > P.34

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29THOMASINE GLOVES

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THOMASINE GLOVES,GLOVE MAKER

her workshop in the heart of the Marais in Paris. Since then, luxury labels have called on her for their collections, such as Maison Fabre or the designer Walter Van Beirendonck, for example. Some of her items have been exhibited in museums.

SKILLSThomasine approaches her glovemaking like a sculptor. She creates volume and shape - she brings the gloves to life! Through her creations she offers a new perspective on gloves. She conceives and draws them, and then with exquisite dexterity she cuts them out and sews them...Thomasine finds her inspiration in organic forms and architectural constructions. Everything gently takes shape and transforms into precious jewels that come to life when worn.

FAVOURITE MATERIALSThomasine is very tactile. She likes to handle the material and understand how to give it volume. Each of her creations is a combination of different textiles and leathers: lamb, calf, python, shagreen, lizardskin. These beautiful materials are shaped with care and honour the "art of glovemaking" that she defends.

APPLICATIONSThomasine shares her passion and expertise with haute-couture and luxury ready-to-wear designers but also with private clients. She can create specific models or offer advice on accessories and their assembly, thanks to her design expertise. She shows clients the possibilities offered by combining materials and a classic product in a new way.

WWW.THOMASINEGLOVES.COM

INITIATIONThomasine Barnekow studied Art at Design Academy Eindhoven in the Netherlands, specialising in Conceptual Product Design. In 2006, she graduated in Textiles and Glovemaking from the Man & Identity department, directed by Li Edelkoort.

ONCE UPON A TIME...Thomasine has always been good with her hands. Her studies led her to the Fur Institute in Amsterdam, where she used a fur knife for the very first time. It was a revelation: she created, coloured and sewed on leather and fur. She designed her first collection of gloves there for her

degree project, in collaboration with the glove maker Georges Morand, which she named “Precious Skins". That is when her leather sewing skills were first appreciated. In 2007, Thomasine was chosen as one of the finalists in the Italian competition: International Talent Support ITS#SIX. This event earned her recognition as an Accessories Designer specialised in glovemaking. The following year she won her first freelance contract to design items for the prestigious Maison Agnelle. Following this collaboration, she decided to create her own label, Thomasine, focusing on two activities: commercialisation and development of couture collections. Today, as well as being a designer, she offers her services as a consultant. She has set up

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SOPHIE MARIONNET,LEATHER ORIGAMI

the volume. With this expertise, Sophie is blurring the boundaries between art and fashion design.

FAVOURITE MATERIALSSophie has a particular penchant for leather which she handles like a sheet of paper, a material to be sculpted. The leather gains volume. It lies delicately on the body, disturbs our vision of volumes and creates a new corporal identity, like a second skin.

APPLICATIONSSophie would like to use her leather-folding expertise to create volumes. From 2D to 3D, she brings leather to life. By transforming it, she creates a timeless shell.

WWW.SOPHIEMARIONNET.COM

INITIATIONAfter studying for a BTS degree in Fashion Textiles and Environment, specialising in Fashion, in Marseille, Sophie Marionnet attended the Ecole des Beaux Arts in Lyon and earned her National Diploma in Arts and Techniques, specialising in textiles.

ONCE UPON A TIME...Sophie’s first position was as assistant knitwear and leather stylist for Marithé François Girbaud. Then she worked for Axara, first in the design of textile patterns, then working on the label's collection. In 2012, she joined Intuition Paris as a leather and fur stylist. Her creative designs are light, airy and colourful with lots of Japanese influences, inspiration taken from her childhood. She acquired an enriching experience in the creative process of a label: from the conception to the production of models, the management of the brand identity through communication...But the desire to create her own label never left her. So she left for London to take some time to think about her identity and create some samples, then have her collection photographed by professionals. The Sophie Marionnet label was born.

SKILLSRaised in a private school by Japanese nuns, Sophie learnt origami techniques as a child. As an adult, she enjoys transforming the various materials that she handles into something with volume. This ancestral art is now at the heart of her designs. It is a painstaking task as each stage in the process has to be anticipated and controlled to create the holding points without stifling

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L'ATELIER DU RENARD

L'ATELIER DU RENARD, EMBROIDERY ON

LEATHERINITIATIONMagali Renard has a degree in Applied Arts from the Beaux Arts in Lyon.

ONCE UPON A TIME...Trained as a painter, Magali excels in the creation of designs for the homeware sector. For 15 years, she worked as a textile and tableware designer and artistic director for Marie-Claire, Daniel Hechter, Balmain, Roche Bobois, Fauchon, Sam Laik, Le Bon Marché, Conran Shop, Nydel, Korzilius and Royal Limoges. A wealth of inspiration that has sometimes led to her exhibiting her paintings. In 2009, she created her studio "L'Atelier du Renard", specialising in embroidery on furniture. She studied art and gold embroidery with Art Master Sylvie Deschamps. Magali takes an innovative stance on art embroidery and approaches this discipline with the rigour of a designer whilst at the same perpetuating the gestures of a craftsman. Headboards, sofas, armchairs, cushions, carpets, screens, lamps, carpets – everything is given the Magali touch. This effort earned her a nomination at the Grand Prix de la Création in Paris. In January 2013, Magali formed a partnership with Maison Fey. Since then she has regularly exhibited at the Maison&Objet show.

SKILLSIt was in response to a call for tenders from an architect working in the yachting sector that she decided to specialise in bespoke hand embroidery on furniture. For this order, she created, designed and embroidered a wall panel made of python, shagreen and dipped lamb, embroidered with Swarovski crystals, cultured pearls and gold beads. Her gestures form and develop like a harpist playing a piece of music. Magali uses hand embroidery techniques on bespoke furniture. Therefore she often works on seating, chairs and armchairs that have been totally renovated. Her resolutely contemporary style allows her creations to move away from their usual noble fetters. Magali has many strings to her artistic bow. She produces one-off items, bespoke designs, furniture and works of art.

FAVOURITE MATERIALSAs she has always worked in the high end bespoke sector for her furniture embroidery, naturally Magali turned towards the most luxurious of materials to use for her creations: leather. Because it is a “living material,” embroidery on leather leaves no room for error. Whether full grain or Cordovan, the variety of its colours and aspects brings luxury and warmth like no other material. Tambour embroidery (using beads and sequins) allows the very special texture of leather to be highlighted.

APPLICATIONSL’Atelier du Renard is one of the Ateliers d’Art de France. It meets the demands of bespoke services, offering individual perspectives in terms of designs, colours, dimensions the use of precious materials such as silk, leather, suede, precious stones, gold, etc. Each item is design in the workshop then entirely handmade in the respect of the traditions of the Metiers d'Art.

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CORDOVAN LEATHER - ROCCOCO © L'ATELIER DU RENARD

WWW.ATELIERDURENARD.COM

CORDOVAN LEATHER © L'ATELIER DU RENARD

EMMANUELLE HEGARET

EMMANUELLE HEGARET,

DESIGNER

Bags, clothes and above all chairs, which she has always collected. As a child, she obtained her first tanned hide. The richness offered by leather has always enthralled her. She sees it as the only material to get more beautiful with time. It was when restoring seating that she discovered the technical aspects of leather, a material that she has learned to master without ever tiring of it. Leather is part of her daily life. The driving force of her TRACKS project is to observe the unpredictable development of leather, recognise the unity of the skin and work with and embellish its defects, rather than attempting to mask them, as is more usual.

APPLICATIONSEmmanuelle offers her expertise to furniture manufacturers and designers, with the aim of remaining in the bespoke or limited edition sector, based on the choice and sizes of the skins. Furniture makers, take note.

EMMANUELLE.HEGARET@GMAIL.COM

INITIATIONAfter studying for a diploma in Cabinet Making and Upholstery, with a specialisation in seat upholstering, Emmanuelle Hegaret earned her diploma in Artistic Crafts, interiors/upholstery from the Ecole Boulle. She was one of the top of her class.

ONCE UPON A TIME...Her training offered her the opportunity of working with the company Vinci to produce furniture made of concrete. From there came the TRACKS project, a monumental piece created for her final year project. This piece of work would travel the world thanks to the Ecole Boulle and the Fondation Bettencourt: from the Viaduc des Arts in Paris to the Parc floral with Kyoto in Japan as its last port of call. But the visibility of her work did not stop there. A French upholsterer working in New York asked her to cross the Atlantic. Specialised in

the seating restoration, Emmanuelle gradually made a name for herself, working on many projects and making many professional encounters. She worked for the restoration of period pieces for the Brooklyn Museum and for leading antiques dealers and interior designers such as Peter Marino and Eric Hilton. Today she combines the reupholstering of seating with designs and interior decor consulting.

SKILLSHer techniques are those of the seat upholsterer and the cabinet maker. Her know-how is a blend of furniture restoration but also design and prototype development. For her TRACKS project, Emmanuelle showcased her manual work: working with cut wood, hand stitching with leather ties, adapting leather to the structure of the seating.

FAVOURITE MATERIALSEmmanuelle has always had a great sensitivity for materials, particularly through old objects:

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COCOASHOES,PAINTING ON LEATHER

FAVOURITE MATERIALSShe very naturally became interested in leather from her work with shoes and accessories and by experimenting with the various procedures available for painting on shoes.

APPLICATIONSCoralie produces unique shoe and accessory designs that she personalises with painting on leather.

WWW.COCOASHOES.COM

INITIATIONCoralie Boulate first studied for a Bachelors Degree and a Master’s Degree in Human and Social Sciences. This training would then influence her artistic work. In 2008, she graduated in Arts and Techniques, option Space Design from the Ecole de Beaux Arts in Toulon.

ONCE UPON A TIME...Coralie likes fashion, art and poetry. And like many women, she is a shoe addict. Inspired by graffiti and fashion, she looks to “customise" shoes, painting women’s

footwear and developing the street style spirit of the trends of yesteryear and today. In 2011, Coralie created CocoAshoes. She started to take part in craft markets, sold her wares in boutiques and exhibited at the “Républik’Art” in Hyères les Palmiers. In a short space of time she increased her visibility and multiplied her experiences and professional encounters.

SKILLSCoralie has replaced the graffiti aerosols with a process using posca (gouache marker pens); she then varnishes her creations to enhance the colours and give them a shiny finish.

TROPICAL STYLE © COCOASHOES LACE STYLE © COCOASHOES

AMY CUIR

AMY CUIR,LEATHERGOODS MAKER USING EXOTIC SKINS

production, from listening to the brief to sketches, projects, preparation, cutting and production are the strong points of their activity.

WWW.AMYCUIR.COM

INITIATIONVincent Solaz has a passion for handmade work, particularly joinery. Aged 14, he was an apprentice for one of the best Parisian leather craftsmen, and fell in love with handbag making.

ONCE UPON A TIME...Very skilled in the mastery of the finest leather goods techniques, Vincent perfected his techniques and became one of the youngest overseers in the sector. He worked with the most precious skins for the luxury houses. In 1970, having become a master in the production of soft bags, Vincent managed the production of many lines of bags for the biggest names in fashion: Dior, Chanel, Louis Vuitton. Having experienced all types of production techniques for small and larger leathergoods, for the most demanding clients, Vincent seized the opportunity to create his own workshop in rue Richer, in the heart of the Parisian craft district. From then on, he developed leathergoods prototypes for the leading luxury labels, particularly for their catwalk shows. But Amy Cuir is also the story of a family. Catherine Solaz, Vincent’s eldest daughter, was passionate about the profession from an early age and joined the workshop, learning the techniques and skills from her father.

SKILLSEach product is unique. It all starts when the skins are delivered to the workshop. The templates that have been prepared by the Amy Cuir team are adjusted according to the skins, and then the cutting starts. The manufacture is the fruit of painstaking teamwork: cutting, sewing, preparing the skins, colouring. Their passion for artisanal leathergoods allows them to design

many collections and products: suitcases, handbags, briefcases, wallets, cigar cases, credit card holders, belts, phone cases, money clips, watch straps.

FAVOURITE MATERIALSAll Amy Cuir products are made from the exotic materials that have become their speciality, from crocodile to ostrich via shagreen and python…

APPLICATIONSAlongside prototypes of bags for the leading luxury labels, Vincent has developed a “bespoke" activity for his wealthy clients around the world. With a talent for interpreting the most elaborate designs of his clients, he creates unique items, customised in terms of shape, size and skins, which are now in demand from the elite of this world. Bespoke

BESPOKEEVENTS

34

SHAGREEN BOX © AMY CUIR

PYTHON HANDBAG © AMY CUIR

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IFM: THE CLASS OF 2013P.35 > P.36

CUIR À PARIS HAS BEEN SUPPORTING THE DESIGNERS OF THE DESIGN POSTGRADUATE PROGRAM FROM THE FRENCH FASHION INSTITUTE, IFM, SINCE 2001.

EACH YEAR, THE PARTNERSHIP BETWEEN IFM AND CUIR À PARIS PURSUES ITS AIM TO FACILITATE CONTACT BETWEEN THESE YOUNG DESIGNERS FROM AROUND THE WORLD AND PLAYERS FROM THE LEATHER SECTOR, TO ENABLE A MEETING BETWEEN EXPERTISE AND INNOVATION.

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During this postgraduate program, which is entirely professionally-based, these newly-qualified, young designers each develop two leather accessories collections (bags, gloves, belts and small leathergoods) including a collection for one of the program’s partner labels, or a collection of clothing as well as a collection of shoes. Each collection is based on a strong creative proposition, an in-depth understanding of the technical constraints and the materials, involves the preparation of a collection plan, pre-prototypes and technical datasheets, and is completed by supervision from a business during the production of the final prototypes.

For its forthcoming edition, CUIR À PARIS is offering 19 designers from the class of 2013 the opportunity of presenting bag, clothing and footwear collections, produced by manufacturers and prestigious luxury French and international houses, with the materials provided, often at no cost, by a number of tanneries, the majority of which are also present at the show.

WWW.IFM-PARIS.COM

SAC DESIGN BY LAURA GEDDES © IFM DESIGNER 2013 MADE BY DE TOUTES LES MATIÈRES LEATHER TANNERIE REMY CARRIAT ET GRUPPOMASTROTTO

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37GLOVES EXHIBITION

CUIR À PARIS will welcome for the first time the exhibition G-LOVE.

The French Glove Federation has brought together for this event seven member glove makers who are instrumental in promoting French glovemaking to the world: Gants Causse, Ganterie de Saint Junien, Lesdiguières Barnier, Agnelle, Atelier du Gantier, Georges Morand and Ganterie Lavabre Cadet.

As emblems of this ancestral craft and of intense refinement, a dozen gloves will be displayed, under glass domes, like precious jewels.

The decor itself will borrow from the codes of seduction. Red lighting coupled with black walls and tables will create a showcase to sophisticated modernity.

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EXHIBITIONEVENTS

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NEXT EDITION16-18 SEPT. 2014

This document has been established with the financial assistance of CTC Tax and Subsidies Department.

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