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find a new presentation on Natural oils - Naturally from Cognis about Cegesoft types and Cetiol SB 45
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Natural Oils Naturally from Cognis
August 2009 2
The demand for natural andnaturally derived ingredientsis higher than ever
TheThe demanddemand for natural andfor natural andnaturallynaturally derivedderived ingredientsingredientsisis higherhigher thanthan everever
TM
Natural Oils
August 2009 3
Natural Oils*Trade Name INCI Name EU / non EU Eco status
CegesoftPS 6 Olus (EU); Vegetable Oil (non EU)Cegesoft HF 52 Hydrogenated Vegetable OilCegesoft HF 62 Hydrogenated Vegetable OilCegesoft FR 57 Hydrogenated Vegetable GlyceridesCegesoft VP Olus (and) Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil (and)
Candellila Cera (EU)Vegetable Oil (and) Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil (and) Euphorbia Cerifera (Candellila) Wax (non EU)
Cegesoft PFO Passiflora Incarnata (EU) Passiflora Incarnata Seed Oil (non EU)
Cegesoft GPO Elaeis Guineensis Oil (EU)Elaeis Guineensis (Palm) Oil (non EU)
Cegesoft SH Shorea Stenoptera Butter (EU)Shorea Stenoptera Seed Butter (non EU)
notapplied
Cetiol SB 45 Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter (non EU)Cegesoft SBE Butyrospermum Parkii Butter (EU) no
Cegesoft PFO, Cegesoft PS 6 and Cegesoft VP have as well the status as Registered raw material BDIH Controlled Natural Cosmetic.
Cegesoft SB Butyrospermum Parkii (EU) in application
August 2009 4
Common Natural Oils
Cegesoft PS 6
Slow spreading emollient With long lasting skin feel Based on canola oil which
contains oleic (omega-9),linoleic acid (omega-6) and tocopherol
Advantageous for sensitive skin Similar spreading properties like paraffin
oil subliquidum
August 2009 5
Common Natural Oils
Cegesoft VP
Waxy emollient Based on canola, palm, soy and
candellila Basis for stick preparations Consistency and melting behaviour
close to petrolatum
August 2009 6
Cegesoft HF 52 Cegesoft HF 62
INCI Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil
Source Palm/Special Rape Seed Oil Rape Seed Oil
Palmitic Acid [%] 38 5 Stearic Acid [%] 15 45 Oleic Acid [%] 32 -
Eicosic Acid [%] 3 7 Behenic Acid [%] 11 41
Others [%] 1 2 Slip Melting Point 50 57 60 - 63
Common Natural WaxesCegesoft FR 57Cegesoft HF 52Cegesoft HF 62
Waxes obtained by hydrogenation of vegetable oils Consistency factors and basis for stick preparations Different in origin, fatty acid composition and
melting behaviour for a variety of application Delivered as pellets
Cegesoft FR 57 INCI Hydrogenated Vegetable
Glycerides Source Soybean/Palm oil Monoglyceride [%] 8 - 16 Diglyceride [%] 40 - 56 Triglyceride [%] 28 - 48 Free Glycerol max. [%] 0.5 Slip Melting Point 52 - 60
C-chain distribution
August 2009 7
Exotic Oils
Passion Flower OilCegesoft PFO
Shea ButtersCetiol SB 45 & Cegesoft SBE
Shorea ButterCegesoft SH
Golden Palm OilCegesoft GPO
August 2009 8
OriginOrigin: Central/West AfricaShea butter is a semi solid wax obtained from the nuts of the fruits of of the wild growing Karite tree Butyrospermum Parkii
Shea Butters
Shea butter is well known for Soft and pleasant long term skin feel Caring & moisturizing effect with a weak gloss High content of triglycerides, rich in oleic and linoleic acids Food grade quality Good crystallization behaviour
August 2009 9
Cetiol SB 45 & Cegesoft SB and SBE Cetiol SB 45, Cegesoft SB and Cegesoft SBE
additionally provide:
Excellent odor and color quality Support of UV protection and Soothing properties due to a high Content of unsaponifiable matterwith active ingredient character
Improvement of hair gloss
Cetiol SB 45 Cegesoft SB Cegesoft SBE Melting point C: 42-46 min. 34 20-40Unsaponifiables %: 9-13 min. 5 30-40Add on property: supports consistency most natural grade concentrated active content
August 2009 10
Shorea Butter - Cegesoft SH
Cegesoft SH Leaves a silky, non-lubricating, velvet skin feeling Melting point some degrees below body temperature 2535C Moisturises Improves wet & dry combability of hair from a shampoo Improves hair gloss High oxidative stability due to high content of saturated fatty
acids & low content of mono-unsaturated fatty acids Good crystallisation behaviour
OriginOrigin : BorneoThe Illipe tree is a large treegrowing in tropical rainforest,the butter is obtained from the fruit kernel.
August 2009 11
Cegesoft SH vs. Cetiol SB 45Sensory Assessment
August 2009 12
Cegesoft SH
Result:Cegesoft SH improves wet & dry combability and hair gloss
Hair Performance Assessmentwith a shampoo containing Cegesoft SH
August 2009 13
OriginOrigin: South America, Africa, MadagascarThe oilThe oil is produced from the seedswhich are sun dried prior to pressing
Passionflower Oil Cegesoft PFO
Cegesoft PFO High content of linoleic fatty acid,approx. 70 % omega-6, an essential fatty acidknown to reduce transepidermal water loss of the skin
Pleasant & silky skin feel comparable to evening primrose oil Long term skin feel due to low spreading behaviour Similar properties as Evening Primrose oil
August 2009 14
OriginOrigin: Southeast AsiaGolden Palm oil is extracted fromthe fruit flesh of the palm treeElaeis guineensis and not comparableto palm kernel oil which is lauric oil.
Golden Palm Oil Cegesoft GPO
Cegesoft GPO Slow spreading emollient with long lasting skin feel Can be used as natural colorant for yellow orange colors Contains about 400 ppm carotenes Contains about 1000 ppm tocopherols and tocotrienols Resistant against autoxidation
August 2009 15
Pure Cegesoft GPO5 %1 %0.1 %0 %
Natural coloration of cosmetic formulations, e.g. oil
Cegesoft GPO
August 2009 16
Cegesoft Range Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL) study Differences= TEWL after application minus TEWL before application
-4
-3
-2
-1
0
Cegesoft GPOCegesoft PFOCegesoft SBECegesoft SHblank
T
E
W
L
D
i
f
f
e
r
e
n
c
e
(
g
/
c
m
2
h
)
Time after application (min)0 60 90 120 Before applicationof the pure oil
(n=5)*This test has been performed on Asian skin
August 2009 17
Formulations
TM
August 2009 18
Ingredients Eco Status INCI Weight %(as is)CETIOL CC Dicaprylyl Carbonate 5.00
MYRITOLl 318 Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride 5.00
Vegetal Oil Jojoba (Fytosan) Jojoba Wax 5.00
CEGESOFT VP Olus (and) Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil (and)Candelilla Cera 2.00
CEGESOFT HF 62 Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil 2.00
LANETTE O Cetearyl Alcohol 1.00
EUMULGIN VL 75 Lauryl Glucoside (and) Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate (and) Glycerin 3.50
Glycerin Glycerin 3.00
Dissolvine GL 38 (Akzo) Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate 0.05
Water, de-ionized Aqua 66.65
Keltrol CGSFT (SPCI)
Hamamelis HYHA12 (Fytosan)Perfume Fleur damandier(Expressions Parfumes)
Geogard 221 (Lonza)
Xanthan Gum
Hamamelis Virginiana Distillate*
Dehydroacetic Acid (and) Benzyl Alcohol
0.80
5.00
0.20
0.80
pH-value 5.5 6.5
Viscosity [mPas]: Brookfield RVT,spindle 5, 10rpm 14,560
Body Milk with Cegesoft HF 62 & VP
Formulation number: FR 00/661/213
TM *
* Only Ecocert has the ability to certify finished products according to Guidelines for Natural and Organic Cosmetics
** Ingredients proceeding from Organic Farming (www.fytosan.com)
August 2009 19
Natural Soothing Care for Hair & Scalpwith Cetiol SB 45
Formulation number: HB-ES/02/204/11B
TM
Ingredients Eco Status
INCI Weight % (as is)
DEHYQUART L80
CETIOL SB 45
LAMESOFT TM Benz
COSMEDIA CTH (E)
Aloe Extract*(Burgundy Botanical Extracts Iberia S.A.)
Preservative PerfumeWater, de-ionized
Dicocylethyl HydroxyethylmoniumMethosylfate (and)Propylene Glycol
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter (EU)Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter (non EU)
Glycol Distearate (and) Coco-Glucoside (and) Glyceryl Oleate (and) Glyceryl Stearate
Polyquarternium-37 (and) Propylene GlycolDicaprylate/Dicaprate (and)PPG-1 Trideceth-6
Aloe Barbadensis (EU);Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract (US)
ParfumeAqua
2.00
1.00
5.00
2.50
0.30
89.2
pH-value 3.67
Viscosity [mPas], Brookfield RVT 20C, spindle 4,10 rpm
15,600
August 2009 20
Golden Body Butter with Cegesoft GPO & SH & Cetiol SB 45
Formulation number: SC-US/162/634/132/5
TM
Ingredients Eco Status
INCI Weight % (as is)
EMULGADE PL 68/50EUMULGIN SGCUTINA PESCUTINA GMS V
CETIOL CC CETIOL OE CETIOL SB 45
CEGESOFT GPO
CEGESOFT SH
Silocon Oil AK (Wacker)
Cosmedia SP
Glycerin
Water
Preservative
Cetearyl Glucoside (and) Cetearyl AlcoholSodium Stearoyl GlutamatePentaerythrityl DistearateGlyceryl Stearate
Dicaprylyl CarbonateDicaprylyl EtherButyrospermum Parkii Butter (EU)Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter (non EU)
Elaeis Guineensis Oil (EU)Elaeis Guineensis (Palm) Oil (non EU)Shorea Stenoptera Butter (EU) Shorea Stenoptera Butter (non EU)
Dimethicone
Sodium Polyacrylate
Glycerin
Aqua
6.000.504.002.00
3.002.003.00
1.00
4.00
1.00
1.50
5.00
67.00
q.s.
Viscosity [mPas], Brookfield RVT 23C, spindle TE 5rpm with Helipath
approx. 1,200,000
August 2009 21
Ingredients Eco status INCI Name %
EUMULGIN VL 75 Lauryl Glucoside (and) Polyglyceryl-2 3.50 Dipolyhydroxystearate (and) Glycerin
CEGESOFT HF 62 Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil 2.00LANETTE 22 Behenyl Alcohol 1.00CETIOL CC Dicaprylyl Carbonate 5.00MYRITOL 318 Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 5.00CEGESOFT VP Olus Oil (and) Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil 2.00
(and) Candelilla CeraVegetal Oil Jojoba (Fytosan)** Jojoba Oil** 5.00Glycerine Glycerin 3.00Dissolvine GL 38 (Akzo) Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate 0.05Deionized Water Aqua 65.45Keltrol CGSFT (SPCI) Xanthan Gum 0.80Hamamelis Water (Fytosan)** Hamamelis Virginiana Distillate** 5.00Perfume Th Vert (Expressions Parfumes) 0.30Geogard 221 ( Lonza) Dehydroacetic Acid (and) Benzyl Alcohol 0.80COVI-OX T 90 EU Tocopherol 0.10LS Entielle Volupt Brassica Campestris Oileifera Oil 1.00
(and) Schinus Terebinhifolius Seed Extract
pH-value 5.5 - 6.0
Viscosity (Brk RVT, RT, Spindle 5, Speed 10) 10,200 mPa.s ** Ingredients proceeding from Organic Farming (www.fytosan.com)
Formulation number: FR00661.218
TM
Only Ecocert has the ability to certify finished products according to the Guidelines for Natural and Organic Cosmetics
Jojoba Oil Body Milk with CEGESOFT VP
PresenterPresentation NotesRequirements for Natural classification : % organic ingredients = 10% (5 % of jojoba oil + 5% of organic water) >= 10%% plant certifiable ingredient NOT organic = 1% of LS Entielle Volupt% organic ingredients on total plant certifiable ingredients = 10% / 11% = 91% < 95% and > 50% => Natural Cosmetics
Colors are related to function of the products- Red= emulsifier- Blue = Consistency factors on top, additives on bottom- Violet = emollients- Green = organic certified products
Any questions on the formulations, please contact Stphane LACOUTIERE, Marketing Manager PC France or Marc Beuche, Head of Application Lab EUS
August 2009 22
Moisturizing Shower & Bath Oil with Cegesoft PS 6
Formulation number: HB-ES/05/501/01D
TM
Ingredients Eco Status
INCI Weight % (as is)
TEXAPON WW 100
PLANTAPON LC7
NaOH 50%
CEGESOFT PS 6
EUTANOL G
CETIOL OE
Perfume
Preservative
MIPA-Laureth Sulfate (and) Laureth-4 (and) Cocamide DEA
Laureth-7 Citrate
Olus (EU); Vegetable Oil (non EU)
Octyldodecanol
Dicaprylyl Ether
51.80
5.00
0.80
27.20
5.00
9.00
1.20
q.s.
pH-value (10%) 5.80
Viscosity [mPas], Brookfield RVT 23C, spindle 4,10 rpm
August 2009 23
Ingredients Ecostatus
INCI Weight % (as is)
EMULGADE PL 68/50 Cetearyl Glucose and Cetearyl Alcohol 3.0
EUMULGIN SG Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate 0.5
CUTINA GMS-V Glyceryl Stearate 3.0
CEGESOFT PS 6 Olus (EU), Vegetable Oil (non EU) 5.0
CEGESOFT GPOCETIOL OECETIOL SB 45MYRITOL 331COVI-OX T90 EUKeltrol T
Elaeis Guineensis OilDicaprylyl EtherSheabutterCocoglyceridesTocopherolXanthan Gum
0.55.01.04.01.00.25
Water demin. Water 54.15
Glycerin Glycerin 7.0
Lara Care 200 Galactoarabinan, Water 0.5
Ginseng Extract* Panax Ginseng Root Extract (and) Maltodextrin (and) Silica 0.05
Grape Seed Extract*(Burgundy Botanical Extracts Iberia S.A.)
Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract (and) Silica (EU) Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Extract (and) Silica (Non EU)
0.05
Ethanol 15.0
pH-value (as is) 5.0
Viscosity (Brookfield RVF, 23 C, spindle 5; 10 rpm) 11,200 mPas
TMNaturecare Body Lotion with Cegesoft PS 6, GPO & Cetiol SB 45
Formulation number: SC-DE/07/070/26
August 2009 24
Ingredients Ecostatus
INCI Weight % (as is)
EUMULGIN PRISMA Disodium Cetearyl Sulfosuccnate 0.4
EUMULGIN VL 75 Lauryl Polyglucose (and) Polyglyceryl-2Dipolyhydroxystearate (and) Glycerin
4.0
CUTINA HVG Hydrogenated Vegetable Glycerides 2.0
CETIOL SN Cetearyl Isononanoate 5.0
CETIOL SENSOFTCEGESOFT PFODC 200 (Dow Corning)COSMEDIA SPWater, demin.Glycerin (99.5 %)Keltrol T
Propylheptyl CaprylatePassiflora Incarnata OilDimethiconeSodium PolyacrylateAquaGlycerinXanthan Gum
3.03.01.00.868.75.00.1
HYDRASENSYLTM LS 9800 Water (and) Glycerin (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Serenoa Serrulata Extract (and) Adansonia Digitata Extract 3.0
BIOPHYTEXTM LS 9832 Aqua (and) Butylene Glycol (and)Panthenol (and) Escin (and) Glycerin (and) Ruscus Aculeatus Extract (and) Ammonium Glycyrrhizate (and) Centella Asiatica Extract (and) Hydrolyzed Yeast Protein (and) Calendula Officinalis Extract
3.0
PILISOFTTM LS 9760 Aqua (and) Pentylene Glycol (and) Gymnema Sylvestre Leaf Extract 1.0
Perfume Parfum q.s.
Preservative q.s.
pH-value (as is) 5.8
Viscosity (Brookfield RVF, RT, spindle 5, 10 rpm) 8,000 mPas
Multi-active Body Lotion with Cegesoft PFO
Formulation number: SC-DE/08/171/8
TM
August 2009 25
Ingredients Eco status INCIWeight %
(as is)
EMULGADE PL 68/50 Cetearyl Glucoside (and) Cetearyl Alcohol 5.00
LANETTE E Sodium Ceterayl Sulfate 0.25
CUTINA HVG Hydrogenated Vegetable Glycerate 2.00
CETIOL OE Caprylyl Carprylate 5.00
CETIOL MM Myristyl Myristate 3.00
CEGESOFT HF 52 Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil 2.00
CEGESOFT PS 6 Olus 5.00
MYRITOL 331 Cocoglycerides 3.00
LIPOFRUCTYL ARGAN LS 9779 Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil 2.00
COVI-OX T 90 EU Tocopherol 0.50
Ethanol Ethanol 15.0
Glycerin Glycerin 5.00
Water, denim. Aqua 52.25
pH-value to be adjusted to
Viscosity [mPas]:Brookfield RVT, 23C, spindle 5, 10rpm
5.00
200,000
Naturecare Face Cream with Cegesoft HF 52 & PS 6
Formulation number: SC-DE/08/131/18
TM
August 2009 26
Inhaltsstoffe ko INCI %Status Gewicht Funktion
CEGESOFT VP Olus Oil (and) Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil 14.50 Konsistenzgeber(and) Candellila Cera
CETIOL CC Dicaprylyl Carbonate 5.00 lkomponenteCEGESOFT SB Butyrospermum Parkii 15.00 lkomponenteCEGESOFT PS 6 Olus Oil 27.00 lkomponenteEUTANOL G Octyldodecanol 20.00 lkomponenteCEGESOFT HF 62 Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil 8.00 KonsistenzgeberVegetal Oil Jojoba HVJO12 (Fytosan)** Jojoba Oil 5.00 lkomponenteLIPOFRUCTYL ARGAN LS 9779** Argania Spinosa Oil 5.00 WirkstoffCOVIOX T90 EU Tocopherol 0.50 Wirkstoff
Viscosity ( Brk RVT, TE, Speed 4, 25C) 250, 000 mPa.s
** Ingredients proceeding from Organic Farming (www.fytosan.com) and (www.laboratoires-serobiologiques.com)
Forever Trendy Grease Hair Care Balm with Cegesoft SB & PS 6
TM
Formulation number: FR00773.603
PresenterPresentation NotesRequirements for Organic classification : % organic ingredients = 10% >= 10%% plant certifiable ingredient NOT organic = 0%% organic ingredients on total plant certifiable ingredients = 100% > 95%
Colors are related to function of the products- Red= surfactant- Violet = Care additives- Green = organic certified products
Any questions on the formulations, please contact Stphane LACOUTIERE, Marketing Manager PC France or Marc Beuche, Head of Application Lab EUS
August 2009 27
Natural Oils and Waxesfor more natural solutions in .
August 2009 28
All products in the text marked with an are trademarks of the Cognis Group
The information on product specifications provided herein is only binding to the extent confirmed by Cognis in a written Sales Agreement. COGNIS EXPRESSLY DISCLAIMS ANY RESPONSIBILITY FOR THE SUITABILITY OF THE PRODUCTS FOR ANY SPECIFIC OR PARTICULAR PURPOSES INTENDED BY THE USER. Suggestions for the use and application of the products and guide formulations are given for information purposes only and without commitment. Such suggestions do not release Cognis customers from testing the products as to their suitability for the customers intended processes and purposes. Cognis does not assume any liability or risk involved in the use of its products as the conditions of use are beyond its control. The user of the products is solely responsible for compliance with all laws and regulations applying to the use of the products, including intellectual property rights of third parties.
August 2009 29
Back-up
August 2009 30
Sun Care Cream with Cegesoft SBE
Formulation number: DE 01/068/11
TM
Ingredients Eco Status
INCI Weight % (as is)
Dehymuls PGPHLameform TGI
Bees Wax
Zincum N 29
Cetiol A Cetiol SNCegesoft SBE
Neo Heliopan E 1000
Neo Heliopan AV
Parsol 1789
Copherol F 1300 C
Glycerin
Magnesium SulfateWater
Preservative, Fragrance
Polyglyceryl-2 DipolyhydroxystearatePolyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate
Cera Alba
Zinc Stearate
Hexyl LaurateCetearyl IsononanoateButyrospermum Parkii
Isoamyl p-Methoxycinnamate
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane
Tocopherol
Glycerin
Magnesium SulfateAqua
3.003.00
3.00
1.00
8.006.003.00
4.00
4.00
1.80
1.00
5.00
1.0056.20
q.s.
Viscosity [mPas], Brookfield RVT 23C, spindle TE, 4rpm with Helipath
187.500
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