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2010 Jeep Patriot Installation
May 18 2011
Initial overview of the Jeep Patriot
Products used in the install
P1694 x4
PEQ
P3SD210 x2
P1000X5D
RFK4D install kitIECAULOC RFWP16-30 x3
Starting the Install
Opening and organizing all the new product. Initial thoughts about
wire layout and overall product placement were discussed at this
time.
Unpacking the goods
The initial plan was to use 3 PBR’s for the install. it was
determined that a single amp would make the install much
easier, so we went with the P1000X5D. We looked at a few
possibilities for where to mount it and decided to put it next to the
spare on the drivers side.
Amp choice and placement
View without the spare tire door cover.
Power and Remote wiring
First step of the install was to fish the power cord
from the battery through the firewall into the
cabin. The remote wire was then harnessed to
the power cord, with one end residing behind the
head unit and the other end back by the amp.
Positioning new wires
After gaining access to the existing
wiring behind the head unit, it was
time to start placing new wires in
the correct position. The speaker
cables and RCA’s were harnessed
together and one end of this
harness was placed with the
existing Jeep wiring. One end of
the new remote wire was also at
this spot.
After all the new wire/cable ends
were placed up front, special care
was taken to tuck the length of
these wire/cables behind carpeting
and trim panels all the way from
the front of the cabin to the back of
the Jeep.
The PEQ was installed and
placed for easy access
Installing the PEQ
Finishing wire layout
After all the wires/cables were
positioned we began to connect these
with the original factory wiring. It was
during this step that we realized only 3
speaker wires were harnessed
together instead of 4….thanks Chris!
After all the wires were in the
correct position it was time to wire
the amp. This was done to test if
the setup was working properly
before putting everything in its
final spot.
Wiring the amp
All the wire connections were made and we tested to see if everything
working
…and it was. So we then mounted the amp to a painted MDF panel.
Final Amp position and wiring connections
Installing the 6x9 speakers in the doors was fairly simple. We removed the old
factory speakers and replaced them with the new ones. The only modification
that needed to be done was grinding the mounting tabs to fit the existing profile in
the door.
Placing the
Building the sub boxes
Working with the space under the front seats limited how big
we could make the boxes. Using a “T” shaped box we were
able to get the volume up to 0.60 sq. ft. Not quite the 0.75
sq. ft. which is recommended, but very close.
Because of the unique shape, fit testing under the
front seat was required as the boxes were being
built.
Carpeting the boxes was a little tricky
given the unique MDF shape to wrap
around.
Building the sub boxes
Building the sub boxes
Installing the subs and completing the box wiring.
Installed sub boxes
Installed subwoofer with the front seat all the way
forward.
With both front seats pushed back, the subs are nearly
covered. Although not the ideal setup for best sound, this
install is clean and hidden well.
Testing the Ported Box
As a comparison to the subs under the
front seats, we were given a ported box
with new prototypes of the latest 12” P1
subs.
- A tool to help with many installation operations (removing panels,
placing wire, fishing wire?)
- New installation kit (or new way of allowing people to custom
pick what they need for their setup)
- Limit excess material on the trim mounting areas of speakers to
prevent issues like the 6x9 speaker fit in this Jeep
install.
- Video/image case study library of vehicle installations on RF.com
- A book or online PDF covering general car installation
procedures. Guidelines for the newbie.
Possible improvements for car installations
Juggernaut Design, June 2011
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