2010 Jeep Patriot Installation

May 18 2011

Initial overview of the Jeep Patriot

Products used in the install

P1694 x4

PEQ

P3SD210 x2

P1000X5D

RFK4D install kitIECAULOC RFWP16-30 x3

Starting the Install

Opening and organizing all the new product. Initial thoughts about

wire layout and overall product placement were discussed at this

time.

Unpacking the goods

The initial plan was to use 3 PBR’s for the install. it was

determined that a single amp would make the install much

easier, so we went with the P1000X5D. We looked at a few

possibilities for where to mount it and decided to put it next to the

spare on the drivers side.

Amp choice and placement

View without the spare tire door cover.

Power and Remote wiring

First step of the install was to fish the power cord

from the battery through the firewall into the

cabin. The remote wire was then harnessed to

the power cord, with one end residing behind the

head unit and the other end back by the amp.

Positioning new wires

After gaining access to the existing

wiring behind the head unit, it was

time to start placing new wires in

the correct position. The speaker

cables and RCA’s were harnessed

together and one end of this

harness was placed with the

existing Jeep wiring. One end of

the new remote wire was also at

this spot.

After all the new wire/cable ends

were placed up front, special care

was taken to tuck the length of

these wire/cables behind carpeting

and trim panels all the way from

the front of the cabin to the back of

the Jeep.

The PEQ was installed and

placed for easy access

Installing the PEQ

Finishing wire layout

After all the wires/cables were

positioned we began to connect these

with the original factory wiring. It was

during this step that we realized only 3

speaker wires were harnessed

together instead of 4….thanks Chris!

After all the wires were in the

correct position it was time to wire

the amp. This was done to test if

the setup was working properly

before putting everything in its

final spot.

Wiring the amp

All the wire connections were made and we tested to see if everything

working

…and it was. So we then mounted the amp to a painted MDF panel.

Final Amp position and wiring connections

Installing the 6x9 speakers in the doors was fairly simple. We removed the old

factory speakers and replaced them with the new ones. The only modification

that needed to be done was grinding the mounting tabs to fit the existing profile in

the door.

Placing the

Building the sub boxes

Working with the space under the front seats limited how big

we could make the boxes. Using a “T” shaped box we were

able to get the volume up to 0.60 sq. ft. Not quite the 0.75

sq. ft. which is recommended, but very close.

Because of the unique shape, fit testing under the

front seat was required as the boxes were being

built.

Carpeting the boxes was a little tricky

given the unique MDF shape to wrap

around.

Building the sub boxes

Building the sub boxes

Installing the subs and completing the box wiring.

Installed sub boxes

Installed subwoofer with the front seat all the way

forward.

With both front seats pushed back, the subs are nearly

covered. Although not the ideal setup for best sound, this

install is clean and hidden well.

Testing the Ported Box

As a comparison to the subs under the

front seats, we were given a ported box

with new prototypes of the latest 12” P1

subs.

- A tool to help with many installation operations (removing panels,

placing wire, fishing wire?)

- New installation kit (or new way of allowing people to custom

pick what they need for their setup)

- Limit excess material on the trim mounting areas of speakers to

prevent issues like the 6x9 speaker fit in this Jeep

install.

- Video/image case study library of vehicle installations on RF.com

- A book or online PDF covering general car installation

procedures. Guidelines for the newbie.

Possible improvements for car installations

Juggernaut Design, June 2011