Wild Trails in India Travel Guide

An invaluable companion for the intrepid tourist and the wildlife enthusiast – it brings alive the forests of India.

* Introduction to the major wildlife parks and sanctuaries of India, with their rich fauna and flora

* Individual sections on over 50 parks and sanctuaries in India, grouped under zones: north, central, east, northeast, west, south, Andaman & Nicobar Islands

* Fact-file of essential information with each park

* Practical Information section for tourists visiting India

* Over 120 stunning photographs

Wild Trails in IndiaTravel Guide

Wild Trails in IndiaThe forests of India are wild, magnifi cent and diverse. Strewn across the country, the wild trails of India can be found in varied landscapes, from the high Himalayas in the north to the rich Terai region in its foothills, from salt marshes of Kutch in the west to the mangroves in the east and the unexplored and impenetrable greens in northeast, to the fascinating landscape of the peninsular region in the south.

While the pride of Indian forests is the royal Bengal tiger, these wild tracts are home to a thousand other species of fauna, avifauna, reptiles, bees and bu" erfl ies. Several endangered species such as the great Indian bustard, Bengal fl orican, paradise fl ycatcher, barasingha, Himalayan tahr, gharial, blue sheep, kiang, red panda call it home.

This guidebook, Wild Trails in India, takes a quick look at the major national parks, wildlife sanctuaries of the country, highlighting their diverse fl ora and fauna. The guidebook has been divided into the following zones for ease of the reader: north India, central India, east India, northeast India, west India, south India, and Andaman & Nicobar Islands.

With over 120 stunning photographs, and fact-fi les with each park, this guidebook will be an invaluable companion both for the fi rst timer as well as the wildlife enthusiast. Wild Trails in India brings alive the forests of India!

Wild Trails in lndiaTravel GuideTravel Guide

Sponsored by Ministry of Tourism, Government of India

Published byEICHER GOODEARTH PVT LTDIndia

Price: ` 210

Wild Trail in Madhya PradeshThe guidebook goes beyond the celebrated parks of Kanha and Bandhavgarh, to explore over 25 lesser-known parks, such as Ken Gharial and Sailana Florican Sanctuary.Rs 210

Wild Trail in Bengal ‘From the rain-soaked sanctuaries of the Dooars to the soggy marshes of mysterious Sunderbans and the hilly forests of the western tracts...Wild Trail in Bengal takes you on an adventurous trip.’ Times of India MRP Rs 190

Wild Trail in Uttar Pradesh‘Wild Trail in Uttar Pradesh is a unique travel guide exploring 24 grasslands, wildlife sanctuaries and national parks of the state.’ Times of India

MRP Rs 210

On a Wild Trail with GOODEARTH PUBLICATIONS

Other Goodearth Titles

Assam: Travel GuideBhimbetka and Bhojpur: Travel GuideBrajbhoomi: Krishna’s PlaygroundBuddhist Circuit in Central India: Travel GuideBuddhist Trail in Himachal: Travel GuideBurhanpur: Travel GuideChamba: The Celestial ValleyChanderi: Travel GuideDelhi: City GuideFrom Ajanta to Ellora: Travel GuideGoa: A Goodearth GuideGwalior: City GuideHyderabad: City GuideJammu & Kashmir: Travel GuideMandu: Travel GuideKolkata: Travel GuideMadhya Pradesh: The Heart of IndiaOmkareshwar and Maheshwar: Travel GuideOrchha: Travel GuidePachmarhi: Travel GuidePunjab: Travel GuideRatlam, Mandsaur and Neemuch: Travel GuideRock Art of Madhya Pradesh: Travel GuideSikkim: Land of MystiqueSpeaking Stones: World Cultural Heritage Sites in IndiaSrinagar: City GuideTemples of Madhya Pradesh: Travel GuideThe Temples of Himachal: Travel GuideUjjain: Travel GuideUttar Pradesh: Travel GuideVaranasi: City GuideWalking with the Buddha: Buddhist Pilgrimages in IndiaWest Bengal: Travel Guide

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WILD

TRAILS IN

IND

IA Travel G

uide GOODEARTH

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Sponsored byMinistry of Tourism, Government of India

Eicher Goodearth Private LimitedIndia

Travel GuideWild Trails in lndia

AN EICHER GOODEARTH PUBLICATION

Copyright © 2014 Eicher Goodearth Private Limited, India ISBN 978-93-80262-75-8

Editor and Publisher: Swati Mitra

Editing: Geetika Sachdev, Nidhi Dhingra Design: Nidhi Dhingra

Text contribution: Joydip and Suchandra Kundu (Introduction pp 4-15)

CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION 4 MAJOR NATIONAL PARKS AND WILDLIFE SANCTUARIES OF INDIA 16

North India 17 Dachigam National Park 17 Hemis National Park 18 Pin Valley National Park 19 Great Himalayan National Park 20

Valley of Flowers National Park 21 Corbett National Park 22

Rajaji National Park 24 Dudhwa National Park 26 National Chambal Wildlife Sanctuary 28 Desert National Park 29 Ranthambore National Park 30 Keoladeo Ghana National Park 32 Sultanpur National Park 34

Central India 35 Bandhavgarh National Park 35 Kanha National Park 36 Pench National Park 38 Panna National Park 40 Kanger Ghati National Park 41 Achanakmar Wildlife Sanctuary 42

East India 43 Betla National Park 43 Hazaribagh National Park 44 Simlipal National Park 45 Chilka Wildife Sanctuary 46 Bhitarkanika National Park 47 Sunderbans National Park 48 Jaldapara National Park 50 Neora Valley National Park 52

All rights reserved.

The Publishers would be happy to receive suggestions and corrections for inclusion in the next edition. Please write to the Executive Publisher,

Eicher Goodearth Pvt Ltd, #96, Sector 32, Gurgaon 122001Email: [email protected]; Ph 0124 4415999

This publication has been sponsored by Ministry of Tourism, Government of India

Printed by Thomson Press, New Delhion behalf of Eicher Goodearth Pvt Ltd

Northeast India 53 Khangchendzonga National Park 53 Kaziranga National Park 54 Manas National Park 56 Hollongapar Gibbon Wildlife Sanctuary 58 Nameri National Park 59 Namdapha National Park 60 Eaglenest Wildlife Sanctuary 61 Pakke Tiger Reserve 62 Keibul Lamjao National Park 63 Murlen National Park 64

West India 65 Gir National Park 65 Velavadar National Park 66 Marine National Park 67 Kutch Desert Wildlife Sanctuary 68 Wild Ass Sanctuary 70 Tadoba-Andhari National Park 72 Navegaon National Park 74

South India 75 Bandipur National Park 75 Nagarhole National Park 76 Mudumalai National Park 78 Point Calimere Bird Sanctuary 80 Silent Valley National Park 81 Periyar National Park 82 Sri Venkateshwara National Park 84

Andaman & Nicobar Islands 85 Mahatma Gandhi Marine National Park 85 Campbell Bay National Park 86

PRACTICAL INFORMATION 87

53ark 53

54

INTRODUCTION

LEFT: A lone elephant walks along forest trails in Corbett National Park, Uttarakhand

5

India is wild, magnifi cent and diverse. Some of the most beautiful and rare animals in the world are to be found here. The high Himalayas, fertile fl oodplains, evergreen peninsular forests, shimmering wetlands, and meandering coastline shape our wild trails.

Some 700 million years ago, what is now India was actually two major landmasses, separated by the primordial Tethys Sea. Of these vast stretches of land, one was called Gondwana, and around 150 million years ago tectonic forces pushed the Gondwana mass towards the northeast, forcing the oceanic bed of the Tethys Sea to rise under its thrust.

The sea vanished and the raised land formed the Tibetan plateau that reached a height of 4,000 m. The upward thrust instigated the rise of an undulating rugged mountain range called the Himalayas. Today, India’s congregation of fl ora and fauna can be classifi ed into certain biogeographic regions: Trans-Himalaya, Himalaya, plains, desert, semi-arid, Western Ghats, Deccan peninsula, northeast, coasts and islands.

India is diversity rolled into one. Here lives the king of animals - the Royal Bengal Tiger. We have some of the fi nest tiger reserves spread from the northern Terai region in Dudhwa and CorbeD , to dense forests down south in Bandipur, Nagarhole and Periyar, from arid Ranthambhore to the mystic mangroves of Sundarbans, from the rainforests of Namdapha and grasslands of Kaziranga to the bamboo dominated central Indian highlands of Kanha and Bandhavgarh – the tiger is everywhere.

6

WILD TRAILS IN INDIA

The blue Ramganga river, white pebbles on its banks, the speckled Dhikala Chaur, CorbeD National Park personifi es the paradise that is wild India. Named aG er the legendary Jim CorbeD , this national park is India’s premier wildlife destination. It was here, on 1 April 1973, that Project Tiger was launched. The spectacular panorama of Kumaon hills is the abode of elephants, ungulates, lesser mammals, gharials, muggers, and numerous birds, besides the elusive tiger.

Located in the very heart of India, Kanha, Bandhavgarh and Pench Tiger Reserves are the pride of Madhya Pradesh. Kanha’s forest glades, made famous by Rudyard Kipling’s Jungle Book are inhabited by precious life forms. Apart from tigers, Kanha is home to the world’s only population of hardground barasinghas.

BELOW: Bandhavgarh National Park has the densest population of the big cat in Madhya Pradesh

7

Introduction

Bandhavgarh in Madhya Pradesh and Ranthambhore in Rajasthan are two tiger reserves saturated in history, myth and legend. Both reserves have forts as a surviving reminder of dynasties that ruled in ancient days.

Bandhavgarh also has an imposing stone statue of a reclining Sheshashai Vishnu from where it is believed that the Charanganga, the lifeline of Bandhavgarh originates.

One of the most popular tiger destinations of the world, Bandhavgarh has a varied habitat of grassland and forests that support large herds of chital and sambars, and several other species like the Indian striped hyena, jungle cat, jackals, plentiful varieties of avifauna and reptiles.

Introduction

adesh and are twoistory, mythave forts as a sties that ruled in

i

ABOVE: With their vast wingspan, storks gliding above make for an awesome sight

8


Ranthambhore National Park, a 7-hrs drive from Delhi, is arrayed with dry deciduous fl ora, with Dhok trees overlooking the panorama along with Pipal, Banyan and Jamun trees highlighting the fruiting diversity of the Park. Ranthambhore is doD ed with palatial ruins where today tigers roam. No trip to Ranthambhore goes unrewarded. Ranthambhore, under the protective umbrella of the late Sri Fateh Singh Rathore, radically changed for the good and the tiger got its foothold over the forests. Though best known for tigers, this is also the country of leopards, sloth bears, hyenas, caracals and more, with some 300 species of birdlife and, of course, marsh crocodiles in the lake area.

India is one of the few countries that have both cold and hot deserts. The Thar or the Great Indian Desert is among the 11 major deserts of the world. The wide open sky, sand dunes, vast stretches of the Great and the LiD le Rann, barren landscapes, extreme weather are the

ABOVE: Rocky terrain of Nanda Devi National Park, UttarakhandBELOW: The beautiful Himalayan monal seen in UttarakhandRIGHT: Graceful kiangs in the spectacularly barren landscape of Hemis National Park, Ladakh

9

Introduction

refuge of some 300 species of birds including the Great Indian bustards, a range of sand grouse, cranes and others. Besides elegant chinkaras, wild asses, wolves and desert foxes, and a gamut of reptiles mark the exceptional biological wealth of the Indian desert.

Mountain peaks towering at 6,000 m, deep gorges that seem to touch the core of the earth, rocks and boulders eroded by torrential rivers and high velocity winds that cut across the land – a forbidden land that is a cold desert. The dry treeless and cold desert of Ladakh is simply irresistible for any adventurer. The empty valleys of Hemis National Park present landscapes that continue to change with every mile. The ‘Ghost of Darkness’, the rare snow leopard lives here. There is also a wide range of mountain sheep and goats like ibex, argali, bharal, goral, recorded in this region. Other predator species include Palas’s cat, lynx, wolves, red foxes, golden eagle, Tibetan snowcocks, Chukar partridges along with other high altitude birds. The Tibetan wild ass or kiang runs wild in the eastern parts of the region like in Tso-kar.

Hemis became India’s fi rst high altitude national park to be established north of the main Himalayan Range.

10


The Western Ghats are India’s second highest mountain range. A vast variation in topography has resulted in a rich biodiversity here, and the range is also one of the richest gene pools. The forests range from tropical evergreen rainforests to dry deciduous scrub forests. The diverse forests of Nilgiri Biosphere Reserve range from the famed national parks of Nagarhole and Bandipur bordering the contiguous forests of Kerala and Tamil Nadu that harbour some of the fi nest species of fl ora and fauna.

Elephants, tigers, leopards, dholes, and their prey roam freely between Nagarhole and Bandipur in Karnataka, Mudumalai and Mukurthi in Tamil Nadu and Wayanad and Silent Valley in Kerala. The Kabini backwaters between Bandipur and Nagarhole are a blissful preserve of some of the wild wonders of India.

Another comparatively small reserve located in the south eastern part of Karnataka at its border with Tamil Nadu is Biligiri Rangaswamy Temple Wildlife Sanctuary, which is a botanist’s and birder’s paradise.

BELOW: The riveting landscape of Nagarhole National Park in Karnataka

11

Introduction

Tigers, elephants, gaurs, barking deer are regularly seen here and the natural landscape of the sanctuary is perfectly picturesque.

The 777 sq km Periyar Tiger Reserve is a montage of tropical evergreen and moist deciduous wilderness with the splendid Periyar lake – a haven for mammals like tigers, elephants, lion-tailed macaque, etc, reptiles, birds, insects and many others. Eco–tourism projects are widely acclaimed as a success story in the conservation of Periyar.

LEFT: The wild gaur

12


The coastal belt that garlands peninsular India is any birder’s bliss. Point Calimere, Bhitarkanika, and Marine National Park are few notable destinations. Another ultimate destination for birdwatchers is Keoladeo Ghana National Park in Bharatpur, Rajasthan & a vital wetland, this man-made swamp is one of the world’s best known and most threatened birding havens.

At the eastern part of India the coastal line concludes in the Sundarbans & the world’s largest mangrove swamp forest & the ultimate land of the tiger. Mangroves are salt tolerant woody plants that exist in conditions of high salinity, extreme tides, strong winds, high temperatures and depleted soils. The pneumatophores, the buD ress roots, the aerial roots, the stilt roots are visual treat for the eyes. Water rises and recedes every six hours in this estuary.

'The Bengal tiger evokes a reverence, dread and wonderaccorded to no other animal.'

Sy Montgomery, Spell of the Tiger

13

Introduction

The elusive Bengal tiger rules the mangrove kingdom. It is very hard to spot, but people sometimes get to see tigers swimming across the tidal creeks.

Eight species of kingfi shers are found here making Sundarbans a kingfi sher country. On winter aG ernoons, one can see the mammoth salt-water crocodile basking on the mudfl ats. Sundarbans is wildlifer’s paradise.

The Dooars of north Bengal and Assam, the extensive valleys, the fl ood plains of Brahmaputra, the rugged hills of Nagaland, Mizoram, Tripura, the mountains of Arunachal Pradesh, and the Shillong plateau represent the green paradise of India’s northeast. The area has plentiful biodiversity, rich in endemic fl ora. The habitat of northeast India supports a wide range of wildlife of the Indo-Malayan and Indo-Chinese regions.

ABOVE: Pretty butterflies like the royal swallow tail can be seen in the hills in north BengalBELOW: The majestic royal Bengal tiger exploring the bewitching mangroves of the Sundarbans

Pretty

14


Kaziranga is a magic land of riverine grasslands, water bodies and thickly forested hills. The National Park is situated on the leG bank of Brahmaputra and is home to India’s great one–horned Rhinoceros. Rhinos love muddy swamps. OG en they are seen lying in the slushy mud in one of the three ranges of Kaziranga. This World Heritage Site supports a variety of herbivores like elephants, Asiatic wild buff aloes, and swamp deer. The tiger, too, lives in this terrain. Most wildlife tourists come to Kaziranga to see these ‘big fi ves’. Kaziranga is also studded with birdlife.

Manas Tiger Reserve with the meandering Manas river and lush green forests against the backdrop of the Bhutan Himalayas has a charm of its own. The World Heritage Site is home to the Bengal fl orican, clouded leopard, golden langur, one-horned Indian rhino, gaur, elephant and tiger. However, due to the political uncertainty of the past several years, the wildlife situation continues to be fragile.

The tropical rain forests of northeast India, especially of Arunachal Pradesh, are a botanist’s delight. Namdapha is a virgin evergreen jungle in Arunachal Pradesh. The luxuriant growth of climbers, the dense undergrowth and multi-layered evergreen trees are refuge of India’s only ape – the Hoolock Gibbon. Moreover, elephants, gaurs, clouded leopards, marbled cats and other rare and endangered species reside in these forests.

ABOVE: The one-horned rhinoceros is the main attraction in Kaziranga National Park, Assam FACING PAGE: Jeep safari in Manas National Park, Assam

15

Introduction

WILD ETIQUETTE

There are some rules that must be followed while going on a wild trail.

One has be calm, quiet, and most importantly, patient when one is in a forest.

Tourists must not wear brightly-coloured clothes and must not carry any electronic items especially mobile phones while on a safari or on foot.

Love the wilderness; do not chase any animal. Wild forests are not zoos, so one has to be immensely patient to see an animal. Never violate their space or invade their privacy.

Wildlife photographers must follow certain rules. They should never approach any large mammal on foot or any bird’s nest and should never restrain any reptile or insect to get a closer shot.

Obey the rules of the area and forest authorities.

Above all, always respect the wild animals and their wilderness and always remember the words of the Austrian artist Friedensreich Hundertwasser, ‘You are a guest of nature: Behave’.

The guidebook has been divided into the following zones for ease of the user:

North India Jammu & Kashmir (J&K,) Himachal Pradesh (HP), Uttarakhand, Uttar Pradesh (UP), Rajasthan, Haryana

Central IndiaMadhya Pradesh (MP), Chhattisgarh

East IndiaJharkhand, Odisha, West Bengal

Northeast IndiaSikkim, Assam, Arunachal Pradesh (AP), Manipur, Mizoram

West IndiaGujarat, Maharashtra

South IndiaKarnataka, Tamil Nadu, Kerala, Andhra Pradesh

Andaman & Nicobar Islands

MAJOR NATIONAL PARKS & WILDLIFE SANCTUARIES

OF INDIA

16

Spread over 140 sq km on the slopes of the Zabarwan range, Dachigam National Park is home to the nearly-extinct hangul or Kashmiri stag, the state animal of Jammu and Kashmir.

Notifi ed as a National Park in 1981, it is just 18 kms from the heart of Srinagar, and barely a kilometre from Harwan Garden, known for its Buddhist ruins.

The park has altitudes ranging from 1,676-4,267 m, divided into the more barren Upper

Dachigam and the lush Lower Dachigam.

The rich green grassland of Lower Dachigam, doD ed with bright blue poppies during the summer, is also home to the Himalayan grey langur, snow leopard, Himalayan black bear, ibex, and birds such as the Kashmir fl ycatcher and monal, among others. There are over 500 species of medicinal herbs in the park.

District: SrinagarDistance: Srinagar town (22 kms)Nearest Railhead: Jammu Tawi (310 kms)Nearest Airport: Srinagar (32 kms)

Best time to visit: Upper Dachigam: May-AugustLower Dachigam: Sept-Dec

Entry fee: FreeTimings: 5.30 am-6.30 pm

Closed from: January-April

Permit: Available at the Park entrance and the Wildlife Warden’s office in Srinagar.Call: (0194) 75411

Major fauna: Hangul, Himalayan grey langur, snow leopard, Himalayan black bear, musk deer

Where to stay: Srinagar

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At a glance

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* Cameras are only allowed in Lower Dachigam

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NORTH INDIA

BELOW: Himalayan grey langur

17

BELOW: Black necked cranes are found in remote parts of India and Bhutan, and are the state birds of J&K

18


Hemis High Altitude National Park, located amidst the awesome moonscapes of Ladakh, across the craggy Markha and Rumbak valleys, is the highest national park in India (altitude ranging from 3,140 m to 5,854 m) and the second largest protected area in India aG er Nanda Devi Biosphere Reserve (over 600 sq km).

Notifi ed in 1981, the park is named aG er the remarkable Hemis Gompa, the largest and most well-known monastery in Ladakh. It lies 40 kms south-west of Leh and is also known as the ‘snow leopard capital of India’, inhabited as it is by the elusive animal. If you are lucky you may

come across a herd of kiangs, the largest of all wild asses, as they trot across these high altitude deserts. The streaked rose fi nch, Tibetan snow fi nch, Himalayan snowcock and the fork-tailed swiG are a few bird species found only in this high-altitude park.

The park has four entry points: Martselang is 45 kms from Leh, Chilling is 60 kms from Leh, while Stok and Zingchan, at a distance of 13 and 25 kms respectively, are located in north of the park.

HE:8F H897 A>;8;GHE NP | JCK

District: LadakhDistance: 10 kms from HemisNearest Airport: Leh

Open all year round Best time to visit : May-SeptEntry fee: Rs 20 (Indians); Rs 100 (Foreigners)

Permit: Available at the Chief Wildlife Warden or the Deputy Conservator of Forests’ offices at Leh (01982-252171, 09419049275)

Major fauna: Snow leopard, kiang, red fox, bharal, ibex, Tibetan argali, Ladakh urial

Where to stay: Homestays; Hemis Gompa; Leh

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At a glance

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Notifi ed in 1987, Pin Valley National Park is located south of Dhankar gompa in the cold desert region of Spiti valley. The park sits at an elevation of 3,500-5,800 m, not far from the Tibetan border.

Named aG er the Pin river which fl ows down to join the Spiti, the park is connected to the Rupi Bhabha Sanctuary to its south and to the Great Himalayan National Park to its southwest.

The remoteness of the park, its majestic, stark landscape punctuated with scanty vegetation of mostly alpine and cedar trees, add to its mystique. While it is possible to spot its most famous inhabitants, the Tibetan wild ass or kiang, Siberian ibex and Tibetan gazelle, only the lucky chance upon rare species such as the snow leopard, Tibetan wolf, Himalayan red fox and Himalayan blue sheep. The park

is also home to the indigenous and prized Chhumurti horses.

The two most popular trekking routes in the park are from Kullu valley in the west via the Pin Parvati Pass (5,319 m) and from Kinnaur in the south via the Bhabha valley and the Tari Khango Pass (4,900 m).

Visitors can approach Pin Valley through Manali via Kaza, or from Shimla via Reckong Peo and Sumdo in Kinnaur. The last leg of the journey is undertaken on foot. Be prepared for an arduous trek. Hire a local guide, carry proper camping equipment and a medical kit with you. Trekkers will fi nd company in the inquisitive Himalayan marmot, mouse hare and snow rabbit peeping out of their holes to curiously look at visitors.

P8= V5>>EJ NP | H8:5675> P?5HEF7

District: Lahaul & SpitiDistance: Kaza (30 kms), Tabo (48 kms), Manali (96 kms)

Best time to visit: March-DecEntry fee: Free

Permit: Indians may apply for permits from the sub-divisional magistrate at Kaza. Foreigners are not allowed.

Major fauna: Tibetan wolf, red fox, Siberian ibex, bharal, Himalayan snowcock, bearded vulture

Where to stay: Private accommodation available at Kaza and Tabo. One may also set up camps at Mud Farka

At a glance

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ABOVE: The rare Himalayan blue sheep, also known locally as bharal, in Pin Valley National Park

19

Notifi ed in 1984, the Great Himalayan National Park (GHNP) sprawls over 754 sq km of rugged mountain terrain in Kullu district, Himachal Pradesh. With altitudes ranging from 1,500-5,800 m, it comprises gentle meadows, lush forests of oak, conifer and bamboo as well as glacial peaks. The terrain is characterised by numerous ridges, deep gorges and precipitous cliff s, rocky crags, glaciers and narrow valleys.

The park is contiguous with the Rupi Bhaba Wildlife Sanctuary in the south-east, Pin Valley National Park in the north-east and Kanawar Wildlife Sanctuary in the north. These areas form the Great Himalayan National Park Conservation Area. The most privileged resident of the park is the western tragopan, a brightly plummaged pheasant classifi ed as ‘vulnerable in the wild’. The western tragopan is aptly named the ‘King of Birds’, locally referred to as ‘Jujurana’. GHNP has one of the densest populations of this bird across its range. According to folklore, god created this colourful pheasant using the most beautiful feathers

of every bird in the universe. The breeding centre inside the park is a successful eff ort at conservation. The bird is best sighted between October and April. The park is also home to the endangered Himalayan musk deer.

The park is best explored through the multiple treks it off ers - ranging from relatively easy day walks in the ecozone to challenging week-10 day long treks through arduous and spectacular terrain.

District: KulluDistance: 60 kms from Kullu townNearest Railhead: Joginder Nagar (approx 100 kms) Nearest Airport: Kullu-Manali Airport (approx 50 kms)

Best time to visit: April-June, Sept-OctTimings: Sunrise-sunsetClosed from: Oct-April (higher altitudes)

Entry fee: Indians: Rs 50, Rs 30 (students); Foreigners: Rs 200, Rs 100 (students) Camera fee: Free

Major fauna: Himalayan black bear, snow leopard, Himalayan musk deer, red fox, flying squirrel, Himalayan tahr, western tragopan

Where to stay: Forest huts, rest houses and dormitories available on reservation

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At a glance

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ABOVE: The stunning tragopans perched on a branch

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For a nature lover, the trek to the beautiful Valley of Flowers is indeed a must-do! Spread over almost 87 sq km in Bhyundar Valley, the park is situated at an altitude of 3,658 m above sea level, not far from Nanda Devi National Park.

Snow envelopes the valley from November to May, but with the coming of summer, in the months of June-August, this cone-shaped valley is swathed in a riot of blossoms, with over 500 species of exquisite, high altitude fl owers such as orchids, poppies, primulas, marigold, daisies and anemones, that take one’s breath away. The rare and exquisite brahma kamal blooms high up the

valley, and especially around river Pushpawati. Legend goes that these meadows were once the celestial abode of gods and nymphs and the locals decidedly stayed away in order to give them privacy.

The 17-km trek to the valley begins from Govindghat, which is about an hour’s drive from Joshimath. There is a single cobbled path running through the Valley to explore this exquisite National Park.

Approximately 10 kms south of the Valley of Flowers is Hemkund Valley, where the Sikh shrine of Hemkund Sahib is situated.

At a glance

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District: ChamoliDistance: 17 kms trek from GovindghatNearest airport: Dehradun (295 kms)Nearest railhead: Rishikesh (213 kms)

Best time to visit: June-August

Closed from: Nov-May

Entry fee: Rs 150 (Indians);Rs 600 (Foreigners)Camera fee: Free

Major flora: Brahma kamal, orchids, primula

Where to stay: Govindghat

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BELOW: Tigers at Corbett National Park, the oldest national park in IndiaFACING PAGE: A pair of cheetal or spotted deer looks up at the camera


Nestled in the foothills of the Lesser Himalayas and the Shivalik range, CorbeD National Park is the most-visited park in UD arakhand. The oldest National Park in India, notifi ed in 1936, is named aG er the legendary hunter, environmentalist and photographer, Jim CorbeD .

Spread over a 521 sq km area, it sits at an elevation of 400 to 1,210 m above sea level, with sal, bamboo, khair and sheeshum as the dominant tree species. The river Kosi that fl ows along eastern boundary has provisions for raG ing, while Ramganga is popular with anglers who come to bait the golden mahseer. Permission for angling must be sought from the state Fisheries Department.

The park has four gates, Dhangarhi, Amdanda, Kalagarh and Durga Devi. Though Amdanda is the closest to Ramnagar (2 kms), Dhangarhi (18 kms from Ramnagar) is most frequented, accessed by tourists coming from Dhikala.

Declared a Tiger Reserve in 1973, CorbeD now has 214 tigers according to a 2011 report by National Tiger Conservation Authority. Apart from the Bengal tiger, one may spot leopards,

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23

North India

23

sambar, barking deer, hog deer, sloth bears, Himalayan gorals, Himalayan black bears and langurs.

With an astonishing 617 species of resident and migratory birds, the park is a birdwatchers’ delight. The fast fl owing Ramganga river is home to muggers and gharials.

District: Nainital and PauriDistance: Nainital (63 kms), Ramnagar (9 kms) Nearest Railhead: Ramnagar (12 kms)Nearest Airport: Pantnagar (50 kms)

Best time to visit: Dec-MarchTimings: 6 am-9 am, 2 pm-5 pmClosed from: 15 June-15 Nov However, forests near Jhirna open throughout the year

Jeep Safari: Rs 3,700 (Indian, 6 people), Rs 4,500 (Foreigner, 2 people)Elephant Safari (buffer zone): Rs 3,500

Permit: Issued at all four gates. Accommodation permits available at the Reception

Major fauna: Tiger, barking deer, chital, Himalayan goral, Himalayan black bear

Where to stay: Rest houses at Dhikala, Gairal. Luxury resorts near Jhirna and Gajria gates.

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At a glance

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In 1983, three wildlife sanctuaries – Rajaji, Chilla and Motichur – were combined to form Rajaji National Park and named aG er C Rajgopalachari, the great freedom fi ghter and the only Governor General of independent India. Positioned at the head of the Indo-Gangetic plains and the Shivaliks, this unspoilt park has a diverse ecology and is spread across 820 sq km on both sides of river

District: Haridwar, Dehradun and Pauri Distance: Dehradun (25 kms)Nearest Railhead: Haridwar (24 kms)Nearest Airport: Dehradun (56 kms)

Best time to visit: Dec-MarchEntry fee: Rs 150 (Indians);Rs 600 (Foreigners) Timings: 6 am-9 am, 3 pm-6 pmOpen throughout the year

Gypsy Safari: Rs 1,250 (up to 8 people) Elephant safaris are not offeredCamera fee: Rs 50 (foreigners)

Major fauna: Elephant, Bengal tiger, leopard, sloth bear, Himalayan black bear

Where to stay: Forest Guest Houses as well as private camping holidays. Private accommodation available at Haridwar

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At a glance

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ABOVE: An elephant walking about in Rajaji National Park

24


Ganges in three districts of UD arakhand: Haridwar, Dehradun and Pauri Garhwal.

Known for its elephants, the elephant corridor between Rajaji and CorbeD National Park was once 170-km long, but has been gradually cut short by deforestation and human seD lements. Elephants now move along specially created corridors in the Chilla-Rishikesh forests.

Apart from elephants,the park is home to many tigers and over 250 leopards, which are not easily seen, and a few sloth bears, which are even less visible to tourists on safaris. The thousands of chitals and sambhars, and the over 300 varieties of resident and migratory birds add interest.

There are seven entrances to the park, the most popular with tourists being Chilla, 13 kms from Haridwar. A detailed brochure is available at the Forest Ranger’s Offi ce, where one can book safaris and guides as well.

There is a 34-km Nature Safari Trail and drive passing through undulating forest tracks, hilly terrain, lush green valleys, river beds, dense forests and sprawling grasslands.

ABOVE: Rajaji National Park is often visited for the rare sighting of its leopards

25

North India

Part of Dudhwa Tiger Reserve, Dudhwa National Park, notifi ed in 1977, is known for its sizeable population of the endangered predator, the tiger, and its equally endangered prey, the barasingha or swamp deer. The reserve comprises three other Protected Forest Areas: Kishanpur WLS, Katerniaghat WLS, and Pilibhit Tiger Reserve. River Sharada acts as a boundary between Kishanpur Wildlife Sanctuary and Dudhwa National Park.

Bound by river Mohan to its north and Suheli to the south, the ecology of Dudhwa National Park, with its marshy grasslands, ample water bodies, plenty of grassy camoufl age and food, is perfect for a fl ourishing wildlife. ‘The fauna in Dudhwa National Park is the last of its kind leG in the Indo-Gangetic tract of northern India’ (RL Singh, Ecology of Dudhwa). Overrun by 3-6 m long elephant grass during

the monsoons, the park is home to the endangered one-horned rhinoceros, Bengal tiger, leopard, and the nearly extinct hispid hare and Bengal fl orican.

Once found in large numbers here, the rhinoceros became extinct in Dudhwa by 1978. In 1985, six rhinos from Pabitora Wildlife Sanctuary, Assam, and four young adult female rhinos from Chitwan National Park, Nepal, were brought here. Today there are over 30 one-horned rhinos in the park.

Close by, en route to Lakhimpur-Dudhwa, is a frog-shaped Shiva temple and the impressive Surat Bhawan Palace, complemented by nine acres of lush green lawns and beautiful fountains.

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ABOVE: One-horned rhinoceros in Dudhwa National ParkFACING PAGE: The tiger is a proud inhabitant of Dudhwa National Park

26


District: Lakhimpur KheriDistance: Lucknow (238 kms)Nearest Railhead: Dudhwa Nearest Airport: LucknowBest time to visit: Dec-March

Entry fee: Rs 100 (Indians);Rs 800 (Foreigners) Timings: 7-10 am, 3 pm-sunsetClosed from: July-Oct Elephant safari: Rs 600 for 4Vehicle fee: Rs 150Camera fee: Free

Permit: Day permits from the Reception at the reserve. Permits for night halts can be arranged by contacting the Field Director/ Deputy Director of the reserve.

Permits issued are valid only for a single person, and are non-transferable.It is mandatory to get a clearance certificate issued before leaving the reserve.

Major fauna: Tiger, one-horned rhinoceros, barasingha, leopard, sarus crane

Where to stay: Private as well as government accommodation available both inside and around the park

Contact: www.dudhwatigerreserve.com

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At a glance

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27

North India

A mere 2-hour drive from the historic city of Agra is the National Chambal Wildlife Sanctuary, which covers approximately 5,400 sq km across the three states of UD ar Pradesh, Madhya Pradesh and Rajasthan. Tucked within the folds of the mystical Chambal ravines, this sanctuary was notifi ed in 1979 to save the endangered gharial (Gavialis gangeticus). The Chambal river that runs through the sanctuary is home to over 400 gharials, the largest number of gharials in the wild.

A boat ride is the best way to view the famed wildlife here: gharials, muggers, smooth-coated oD ers, several species of turtles, and ripples made by the

occasional Gangetic dolphin. While the Chambal boasts of an impressive 330 species of resident and migratory birds, and is one of the best places to spot the elegant Indian skimmer. While gharials tend to hide under water if boats stray too close to them, beware of the deceptively calm-looking mugger, quite capable at snapping at anyone who comes too close. Presently, tourist safaris are conducted by the privately-run Chambal Safari Lodge, situated 15 kms from the sanctuary gate.

Bateshwar, a liD le over 10 kms from the sanctuary gate, is an ancient temple complex on the banks of the Yamuna.

District: Morena Distance: Nandgaon (entry gate) is 75 kms from AgraNearest Railhead: AgraNearest Airport: AgraBest time to visit: Dec-March

Entry fee: Rs 50 (Indians);Rs 600 (Foreigners)Timings: 9 am-5 pm Closed from: July-Sept

Boat ride: Rs 490Vehicle fee: Rs 100

Major fauna: Gharial, mugger, smooth-coated otter, Gangetic dolphin, red-crowned roofed turtle

Where to stay: Agra; Chambal Safari Lodge in Jarar

Contact: DFO, National Chambal Sanctuary (0562) 2530091

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At a glance

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ABOVE: The gharial is named after the ghara (or pot) shaped emboss at the end of its snout

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Spread over 3,162 sq km of Thar Desert, Desert National Park, notifi ed in 1980, is an excellent example of the ecosystem of the vast and arid desert. Sand dunes form less than a quarter of the park, with sparse vegetation and patches of wooded cover speckled with the blossoms of ronj, dhok, khejri and rohida trees giving it hues of green and bright orange.

The best way to spot animals in Desert National Park is to take a camel ride to Sam Sand Dunes and sit tight while the endangered chinkara, desert fox, desert cat and black buck cross

your path. Sudashri forest post is an ideal location for wildlife spoD ing. Resident and migratory birds including the great Indian bustard and reptiles such as the spiny-tail lizard, Russell’s viper, common krait and saw-scaled viper also call the undulating mounds of this park home.

The park also has the Wood Fossil Park at Aakal, which is known for its collection of 180 million-year old forest and animal fossils.

District: Jaisalmer and BarmerDistance: Jaisalmer (18 kms), Jaipur (585 kms)Nearest Railhead: Jaisalmer Junction (19 kms)Nearest Airport: Jodhpur (297 kms)

Best time to visit: Nov-JanEntry fee: Rs 100

Camel Safari: Rs 650Vehicle fee: Rs 100 (jeep), Rs 200 (coach)

Major fauna: Black buck, chinkara, desert fox, great Indian bustard

Where to stay: Private accommodation available at Jaisalmer

At a glance

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ABOVE: The great Indian bustard is a prized sighting in the Desert National Park

29

North India

Situated 160 kms southeast of Jaipur, Ranthambore National Park formerly served as the hunting ground for the maharajas of Jaipur. Notifi ed as a National Park in 1980, it is amongst the most well-documented wildlife destinations in India.

The park, spread over an area of 392 sq km, lies at the edge of a plateau and is bounded to the north by the Banas River and to the south by the Chambal River. It gets its name from the striking Ranthambore Fort that stands within the forest. A World Heritage Site, the 4.5 sq km fort is believed to have been built in the 10th century, during the rule of the Chauhan dynasty.

A huge onus for the popularity of the park goes to the ex-IFS offi cer and the country’s best known tiger conservationist, Fateh Singh Rathore, who worked in Ranthambore for years and is credited with puD ing this destination on the wildlife map of the world.

The park came into limelight aG er its royal tigress, Macchli (T-16), was photographed and fi lmed in several national and international wildlife documentaries, soon becoming the most photographed tiger in the wild. Ferocious and stunning, Macchli was called the ‘lady of the lakes’ because of her affi nity for water bodies, and is the most famed tiger in India.

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BELOW: A herd of chital grazing in the park. The imposing Ranthambore Fort can be seen in the background

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District: Sawai MadhopurNearest Railhead: Sawai Madhopur (10 kms)Nearest Airport: Jaipur (180 kms)

Best time to visit: Oct-JuneTimings vary with seasonsClosed from: July-Sep

Safari charges: Rs 600 (Indians);Rs 1,000 (Foreigners)

Camera fee: Free

Major fauna: Black buck, Indian false vampire bat, mugger, Russell’s viper

Where to stay: Private accommodation available at Sawai Madhopur; RTDC accommodation at Ranthambore Road, Ph 07462 221333

At a glance

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BELOW: There is indeed nothing like spotting a tiger in the wild

According to a news report of April 2014, the total number of tigers in Ranthambhore National Park is 57, including cubs, sub-adults and mature tigers. The other commonly found fauna here include panthers, sloth bears, sambar and spoD ed deer.

When in Ranthambore, do visit its notable sites: Bakaula, a thickly forested region with small pools and water holes in clearings; Kachida Valley, close to the outskirts of the park, with a majority of its panther population and a bloom of fi ery red Flame of the Forest trees in March; Lakarda and Anantpura for sighting sloth bears; and Raj Bagh ruins, located between Padam talao and Raj Bagh talao, with charming ruins of ancient stone structures. The fort of Khandar on the far side of the reserve is well worth a visit for the stunning views of the surrounding area.

31

North India

ABOVE LEFT AND RIGHT: The beautiful Sarus crane and cormorant are amongst the commonest birds spotted in Keoladeo

A mere 50 kms west of the city of the Taj, Agra, Keoladeo Ghana National Park, formerly known as the Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary, is one of the best birding destinations in India. With over 360 resident and migratory species, including the rare and endangered Siberian crane, Keoladeo National Park is immensely popular among ornithologists, birders as well as curious tourists.

Previously the private duck shooting preserve of the Maharaja of Bharatpur, this rich wetland ecosystem is believed to have been formed

District: BharatpurDistance: Delhi (223 kms), Jaipur (183 kms)Nearest Railhead: Bharatpur Junction (5 kms)Nearest Airport: Agra (54 kms)

Best time to visit: Aug-Nov, Oct-FebTimings: 6 am-6 pmClosed from: May-June

Entry fee: Rs 25 (Indians); Rs 200 (Foreigners)Camera fee: Free

Major fauna: Siberian crane, great egret, warbler, painted stork, Asian open-billed stork, Oriental ibis

Where to stay: Private accommodation available

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At a glance

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32


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following the construction of the Ajan Bund in the mid 18th century. Duck shootings were organised here annually in honour of British viceroys and were hugely popular. In a single shoot in 1938, it is recorded that over 4,273 birds were killed by Lord Linlithgow, the then Governor-General of India.

Spread over 29 sq km, Keoladeo was notifi ed as a National Park in 1982 and declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1985. It has recently been renamed aG er the Keoladeo (Shiva) temple that stands within its boundaries.

Designated a wetland of international importance under the Ramsar Convention, it is a complex of ten artifi cial, seasonal lagoons, varying in size, situated in a densely populated region. The vegetation is a mosaic of scrub and open grasslands that provides habitat for breeding, wintering and staging migratory birds. Animals such as sambar, nilgai, chital and wild boar are also commonly spoD ed here. During winters, it is preD y common to see enormous pythons (2.4 -3 m long) sun-bathing in the open.

The best way to explore the park is on a bicycle. Cycles can be hired from the ticket offi ce, where you will also receive a map of the park.

ABOVE: A pair of handsome nilgais striking a pose

33

North India

A popular weekend getaway or even a day trip from Delhi, the 145-ha Sultanpur Bird Sanctuary plays host to over 250 bird species, including painted storks, demoiselle cranes, cormorants, spoD ed sandpipers, mallards and plovers. The sanctuary is a haven for birdwatchers and is best visited in winter when migratory birds come here in hoards. Its fl uctuating population of avifauna includes an estimated 150 resident species and over 100 visiting species from Europe, Afghanistan, Siberia and elsewhere.

Sultanpur is named aG er raja Sultan Singh Chauhan, successor of the Rajput ruler, Harsh

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BELOW: The white Eurasian spoonbills

Dev Chauhan, descendants of the famed warrior, Prithviraj Chauhan.

The bird sanctuary was discovered by the famous ornithologist and Honorary Secretary of the Delhi Birdwatching Society, Peter Jackson, who wrote to then Prime Minister of India, Ms Indira Gandhi, founder of the Society, about the need to declare the Sultanpur jheel near Delhi, a bird sanctuary, and she asked to be escorted there. Sultanpur was declared a bird sanctuary in 1972, and in 1989, designated a national park.

District: GurgaonNearest Airport and Railhead: Delhi (40 kms)

Best time to visit: Nov-MarchTimings: 9 am-5 pmOpen all year round

Entry fee: Rs 5 (Indians); Rs 40 (Foreigners)Jeep Safari: Rs 200 per groupElephant Safari: Rs 100 per groupGuide fee: Rs 20Camera fee: Rs 40

Video fee: Rs 100

Major fauna: Common hoopoe, Paddyfield pipit, Purple sunbird, Little cormorant, Indian Cormorant, Common Spoonbill, Gray Francolin, Black francolin, Indian roller, White-throated kingfisher

Where to stay: Haryana Tourism guest house, Rosy Pelican inside the sanctuary.

At a glance

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ABOVE: Herd of cheetal BELOW: Purple sunbird

35

Central India

Nestled in the Vindhya hills, Bandhavgarh was the erstwhile hunting ground of the royal family of Rewa before it acquired the status of a National Park in 1968 and a Tiger Reserve in 1993. It is said to have the densest population of the big cat in India. In fact, it was here that the rare and majestic white tiger was fi rst captured in 1951, by Maharaja Martand Singh.

The most famous landmark in Bandhavgarh are the ruins of the ancient Bandhavgarh Fort. These sal and bamboo forests also shelter ruins of ancient temples and caves, as well as kunds or

tanks that feed the perennial stream Charanganga, the lifeline of the park. Kabir, the medieval poet and saint, is said to have meditated in one of these caves.

The park has three safari zones: Tala Zone (Gate-1), Magdhi Zone (Gate-2), Khitauli Zone (Gate-3), each with its own distinct character. Popular spots within the park, with greater chances of tiger sightings, include Bari Gufa, Gopalpur Waterhole, Mahavan Talab, Sukha Dam, Sita Mandap, Akla Pahari and Ghora Demon.

District: Umaria Nearest Airport: Jabalpur (164 kms)Nearest Railhead: Umaria (32 kms), Katni (102 kms)

Best time to visit: Oct-JuneTimings: 6.30am to 11am, 2.30pm to 5.30pmClosed from: July-Sept

Entry fee: Rs 2,000 (Indians); Rs 4,000 (foreigners)Jeep Safari charges (incl entry fee, guide charges, jeep charges): Tala zone: Rs 6,000 Magadhi and Khitauli zone: Rs 5,000

Guide fee: Rs 200Elephant Safari: Rs 700 per person per hour (Indians)Camera fee: Rs 25Video fee: Rs 200

Major fauna: Tiger, chausingha, leopard, niilgai, spotted deer, wild boar

Where to stay: Options for both high-end and budget accommodation, private and government, are available in and around the park

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At a glance

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around the park

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CENTRAL INDIA

36

This lush wildlife reserve, watered by the Banjar and Hallon rivers, is spread across 1,945 sq km. It abounds

in meadows, sal forests, bamboo groves and boasts a rich fl oral diversity. Declared a National Park in 1955, the hauntingly beautiful wilderness of Kanha, along with Pench (see p 38), is said to have inspired Rudyard Kipling’s Jungle Book, and is popularly referred to as ‘Kipling’s Country’.

Kanha is prime tiger country and is also the only park in central India where the endangered swamp deer or barasingha is found. The park can be accessed from three gates: Khatia/Kisli Gate, the oldest, is closest to the core zone and most mid-level resorts are built around it; most of the luxurious resorts are around Mukki Gate; while Sarahi is the newest to be opened to tourists and not yet as popular.

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BELOW: The majestic Bengal tiger


36

37

Location (district): Mandla and Balaghat Nearest Railhead: Jabalpur (165 kms)Nearest Airport: Jabalpur (165 kms), Nagpur (275 kms)

Best time to visit: Mid Oct-JuneTimings: Sunrise-12 pm, 3 pm-sunset Closed from: July-Sep

Entry fee: Rs 500/jeep (Indians);Rs 2,000/jeep (Foreigners)

Jeep Safari (incl entry fee, guide charges, jeep charges): Kisli/ Mukki zone: Rs 5,000 Sarahi zone: Rs 7,000Elephant safari also availableCamera/ video: Free

Major fauna: Tiger, leopard, barasingha, gaur, chausingha, sambar, wild dog

Where to stay: Both high-end and budget places places available

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At a glance

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Incidentally, Kanha is also a birdwatchers’ dream. Dabchicks, egrets, whitenecked storks, lesser adjutants, black ibis and blackwinged stilts are among the more common species seen in and around water bodies or streams.

For rare wildlife sightings, make trips to Bamnhi Dadar, Bishanpura, Sondhar, Ghorella and the central Kanha Meadow inside the park. These meadows or maidans which are basically open grasslands that have sprung up in fi elds of abandoned villages, evacuated to make way for the animals. Kanha meadow is one such example. Enjoy walking and cycling in the buff er zone. Visit the nearby villages, Sarekha, Garhi, Lagma, Mocha, and the Gond painters’ village, Patangarh.

ABOVE: Elephant safaris are by far the best way to observe wildlife at its closestBELOW: Barasingha

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37

38

Southwest of Kanha National Park, Pench once formed part of a huge contiguous forest that included Kanha. In fact, these two parks together provided the seD ing for Rudyard Kipling’s, Jungle Book, serving as the playground for Mowgli’s adventures. Formally called Indira Priyadarshini Pench National Park, the park gets its name from the river Pench that meanders through it.

The park, spread across Madhya Pradesh and Maharashtra, can be accessed from either state. The 16th century chronicle of Emperor Akbar’s reign, Ain-i-Akbari, talks of its natural wealth and richness. Its considerable shrub cover and open, grassy patches are the reason for the signifi cantly higher herbivore population as compared to Kanha and Bandhavgarh. The ‘prey’ concentration is highest along the banks of river Pench.

The park’s undulating topography supports a mosaic of vegetation ranging from moist, sheltered valleys to open, dry deciduous forests. Over 1,200 species of plants have been recorded in the area, including several rare and endangered species as well as plants of ethno-botanical importance.

Pench Tiger Reserve is also among the bestareas in central India for bird-watching. Four species of the now endangered vulture – white-rumped, long billed, Egyptian and red-headed – can be seen in good numbers inside the reserve.

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ABOVE: A poster of the Disney movie, Jungle Book, based on Rudyard Kipling's famous books inspired from the central Indian forestsBELOW: Jeep safari in Pench National Park


3838


District: Seoni Nearest Airport and Railhead: Jabalpur (180 kms), Nagpur (80 kms)

Best time to visit: Oct-JuneTimings: Sunrise-12 pm, 3 pm-sunset Closed from: July-Sep

Jeep Safari charges (incl entry fee, guide charges, jeep charges): Rs 4,500 (Indians); Rs 7,000 (foreigners)Camera fee: Rs 500-1,000Video fee: Rs 1,500

Major fauna: Tiger, leopard, chinkara, chausingha, sloth bear

Where to stay: Government-run MPTDC as well as private hotels and guest houses.

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At a glance

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There are over 285 species of resident and migratory birds including the Malabar pied hornbill, Indian piD a,osprey, grey-headed fi shing eagle, white-eyed buzzard, etc. In winter, migratory waterfowl including Brahmini duck, pochard and bar-headed geese arrive in thousands at the Pench reservoir to make it their home for the winter months.

ABOVE: The tiger looks into the camera BELOW: A pair of bisons

39

40

Situated only 32 kms from the World Heritage Site of Khajuraho, Panna National Park on the banks of river Ken is much visited due to its proximity to the world-renowned temples.

The 666 sq km park with its deep gorges, valleys, waterfalls and lush teak forests was declared a Tiger Reserve under Project Tiger in 1994. The river Ken, a perennial river, runs through Panna National Park.

The depleting tiger population in Panna has been successfully regulated with relocation of the big cat from the nearby parks, Kanha, Bandhavgarh and Pench.

District: PannaNearest Airport and Railhead: Khajuraho (32 kms)

Best time to visit: January-AprilClosed from: July-SeptemberTimings: 6.30 am-10.30 am; 2.30 pm-4 pm (Oct-Feb)6 am-10 am; 3 pm-6 pm (Feb-June)

Entry fee: Rs 40 (Indians); Rs 500(Foreigners) Safari charges: Rs 1,000 (Indians); Rs 2,000 (foreigners) Camera fee: Rs 40

Video fee: Rs 200

Major fauna: Tiger, gharial, mugger, wolf, sloth bear, spotted deer, chinkara, many species of birds

Where to stay: Private accommodation available. Khajuraho has a range of hotels

Contact: Field Director, Panna National Park, Ph: (07732) 252135, or log on to www.pannatigerreserve.in

At a glance

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ABOVE: The Ken river flowing through Panna National Park is known for its clear waters

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Apart from the tiger sightings, the park is also sought after for its spectacular panorama dotted with ancient rock paintings believed to be around 2,000 years old.

Visit the charming Pandav Falls inside the park, where the fi ve Pandava brothers are believed to have stayed during their exile. A visit to the nearby Ken Gharial Sanctuary is highly recommended for sightings of long-snouted gharials and marsh crocodiles, locally called muggers.

40

Located in the 34-km long and scenic Kanger Valley Biosphere Reserve, Kanger Ghati National Park is 27 kms from Jagdalpur, in Bastar district – the rich tribal belt of ChhaD isgarh. It aD ained the status of a National Park in 1982.

Spread over an area of 200 sq km, the park derives its name from the Kanger river that fl ows through its length. A mixed moist, deciduous forest, it has a predominance of sal, teak and bamboo.

The national park is home to not just a rich variety of fauna

District: BastarNearest Airport: Raipur (330 kms) Nearest Railhead: Jagdalpur (27 kms)

Best time to visit: Sept-FebTimings: 8 am - 4 pm

Closed from: June-SeptEntry fee: Rs 25 (Indians); Rs 200 (Foreigners)

Vehicle Fee: Rs 200Camera Fee: Rs 25Video Fee: Rs 200

Major fauna: Tiger, leopard, mouse deer, wild cat, bison, chausingha, wolf, chital, sambhar, barking deer, jackal, langur, sloth bear, flying squirrel, wild boar

Where to stay: Jagdalpur has several private hotels

At a glance

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BELOW: The graceful sambar deer

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and avifauna, but also three exceptional caves – Kutumsar, Kailash and Dandak – famous for their astounding formations of stalagmites and stalactites. The other popular sites within the park include the stunning Tirathgarh waterfalls, Kanger Dhara and Bhaimsa Dhara (a crocodile park).

Interestingly, the Kanger Valley is the only region in peninsular India with pockets of virgin and untouched forests.

41

Central India

42

Achanakmar Wildlife Sanctuary, established in 1975, is the prime tiger territory in ChhaD isgarh. Covering an area of 557.55 sq km, the region is mainly hilly with altitudes ranging from 200 m to 1,000 m above sea level. The vegetation mainly comprises sal, saja, tinsa, bĳ a and bamboo.

The park was declared a Tiger Reserve under the Project Tiger in 2009. Besides the tiger, the sanctuary is home to several other animal species including

District: BilaspurNearest Railhead: Pendra Road (25 kms), Bilaspur (40 kms) Nearest Airport: Raipur (184 kms)

Best time to visit: Nov-JuneClosed from: July-Sept

Major fauna: Tiger, leopard, gaur, chital, jackal, striped hyena, nilgai, wild dog, barking deer, wild buffalo, bear

Where to stay: Both CTB rest houses and private accomodation

At a glance

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ABOVE: Nilgai or blue bull BELOW: Sal leaves

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the leopard, gaur, nilgai, chital, barking deer, bear, etc.

The sanctuary is close to the pilgrim town of Amarkantak where river Narmada originates. The Kanha-Achanakmar corridor connects Kanha Tiger Reserve in Madhya Pradesh with Achanakmar Wildlife Sanctuary in ChhaD isgarh.

42

Located in the Chota Nagpur plateau, Betla National Park is one of the fi rst national parks in India to be designated a Tiger Reserve under Project Tiger. The lush tropical forest is said to be an acronym of the major fauna it inhabits: bison, elephant, tiger, leopard, axis-axis (chital).

Spread over 250 sq km, Betla is situated at an average elevation of about 305 m, with vegetation ranging from tropical wet evergreen forests in the lower reaches, mixed deciduous forests in the middle and temperate alpine forests in the upper reaches. It is doD ed with waterfalls and natural springs, prominently Lodh and Sugabandh Falls and Tataha Hotwater Spring.

Betla village is the only entry point to the park. One may take elephant and jeep safaris to venture deep inside the jungles, go to the watch towers at the various viewpoints. It is indeed one of the best parks in east India for spoD ing wildlife from close quarters, and this is arguably possible because the park is criss-crossed by motorable roads.

A part of Betla was declared Palamau Tiger Reserve in 1974. Notably, the fi rst tiger census in the world was conducted in this park, in 1932. The park also has the remains of a 16th century fort of the Chero kings who ruled Palamau during that period.

District: Palamau Nearest Airport: Ranchi (170 kms)Nearest Railhead: Barwadih Junction (15 kms)

Open all year round Best time to visit: Nov-AprilTimings: 9am - 5pm

Entry fee: Rs 10 (Indians); Rs 200 (Foreigners) Jeep Safari: Rs 200 per groupElephant Safari: Rs 100 per group

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Guide fee: Rs 20 Camera fee: Rs 50

Major fauna: Tiger and elephant, leopard, gaur, sambar and wild dogs

Where to stay: Van Vihar Tourist Complex, Betla Tiger Project Bungalow, private accomodation

Contact: Director, Project Tiger, Betla, Ph: 0656286-350

At a glance

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EAST INDIA

43

ABOVE LEFT: Elephant safari in Betla ABOVE RIGHT: A peacock in its finery

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District: Hazaribagh Nearest Railhead: Koderma Station (59 kms), Hazaribagh Road Railway Station (67 kms)Nearest Airport: Ranchi (94 kms)

Best time to visit: Oct-MarchClosed from: June-Sep No permit required

Entry fee: Rs 50Safari Timings: 5pm -10 pmVehicle fee: Different kinds of vehicles available, ranging from a motorcycle to a bus.

No guide or camera fee

Major fauna: sloth bear, tiger, panther, reptiles

Where to stay: There is a Tourist Lodge, Forest Rest House at Rajderwah, 30 kms from Hazaribagh. Private accommodation available at Hazaribagh

Contact: Divisional Forest Officer, West Division, Hazaribagh, TeleFax (06546) 222339

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At a glance

Situated 90 kms from the state capital, Ranchi, and 19 kms from Hazaribagh town, Hazaribagh National Park combines scenic beauty, dense forests and rich fl ora and fauna, with temperate climate all year round. Sal (Shorea robusta) is the dominant tree specie here. Tiger sighting, though rare, are worth looking out for; though according to 1991 census, there were only 14 tigers here, and there may be even fewer now.

A motorable road running through the sanctuary takes the tourists to the remotest corners, and the ten observation towers provide close sightings of wildlife.

Unmetered taxis, auto rickshaws, cycle rickshaws can be hired for a return trip to the park from the Hazaribagh town.

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ABOVE: Python resting on a tree

Originally a hunting ground for the Mayurbhanj royal family, Simlipal was designated a Tiger Reserve in 1956 and a biosphere reserve in 1994. Spread over 2,750 sq km, the park gets its name from semul or red silk coD on trees that bloom abundantly in these forests.

Simlipal gained popularity in the 1970s aG er a 2-month old abandoned tiger cub, Khairi, was adopted by a forest offi cer in 1974, who raised her in his own house. She became the mascot for the Project Tiger movement in Simlipal and was the greatest aD raction of the park until she died in 1981.

The park is criss-crossed by rivers, prominent among them being Budhabalanga, Kharkai and Deo, and has splendid waterfalls including Barehipani (400 m) and Joranda (150 m).

Entry to the park is from Pithabata (22 km from Baripada,

the headquarters of Mayurbhanj district) or Jashipur (94 km from Baripada). Rich in fl ora, the park is recorded to have 96 diff erent species of orchids! Bird-watching trips are organised on demand from Gurguria, Jamuani, Jashipur, Pithabata.

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District: MayurbhanjNearest Airport: Bhubaneswar (270 kms) and Kolkata (240 km)Nearest Railhead: Balasore (60 km from Baripada)

Closed: 15 June-31 OctBest time to visit: Nov-May

Permit: From the Range Officer, Pithabata check gate or the Assistant Conservator of Forests at Jashipur (06797-252240) on payment of prescribed fees.

Entry fee: Rs 40 (Indians); Rs 1,000 (Foreigners) Vehicle fee: Rs 100 per day

Camera fee: Charges vary with kind of camerasVideo fee (per camera/day): Rs 5,000 (Indians); Rs 20,000 (Foreigners)

Major fauna: Tiger, elephant

Where to stay: Odisha Tourism Units at Lulung (3 kms from Pithabata) and Bangiriposi (35 kms from Baripada). Private Hotels are available at Baripada and Jashipur.

Contact: 06792 252 593Asst. Conservator of Forests, National Park, Jashipur

At a glance

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45

East India

BELOW: Barehipani Falls, inside the park

the lake; their sail boats bobbing expertly across the water are a reminder of the ancient maritime heritage of Odisha. OG en, the fi shermen allow visitors to accompany them on their boats. Chilka Lake also supports 118 species of fi sh, including several commercially important species.

District: Puri Nearest Airport: Bhubaneswar (120 kms) Nearest Railhead: Balugaon and Rambha, both on Howrah-Chennai rail line

Open all year round Best time to visit: Oct-MarchTimings: 7.30am - 6pm

Major fauna: Cheetal, blackbuck, monkey, mongoose, and porcupine, Jacana, purple moorhen, white-bellied sea eagle, greylag geese, heron and flamingo

Where to stay: Forest Rest Houses around the lake at Balugaon, Rambha and Satpada

Contact: (06756) 211012

At a glance

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Southwest of Puri is the inland Chilka Lake, the largest coastal lagoon in India. In 1981, it was designated the fi rst Indian wetland of international importance under the Ramsar Convention. The marshes, lowlands, and islands in its shallow waters aD ract over 160 species of birds in the migratory season, while the surrounding hills and sandy stretches abound in a variety of fauna. It is no wonder then that the 1,100-sq km Chilka Wildlife Sanctuary is one of the most visited wildlife sanctuaries in Odisha.

Boats to the sanctuary, run both by OTDC and private operators, can be hired from Barkul, Rambha, Balugaon and Satpada. The large fi shing community seD led around adds fl avour to

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46

TOP: A group of lesser flamingoes flying over Chilka Lake ABOVE: Boat ride on Chilka Lake

fl oats, and with the receding tide, the mud fl ats on the banks expose scampering fi ddler crabs, mud skipper fi sh, liD le reptiles and the like. The pneumatophores, beD er known as breathing roots, stand like sentries of the land. A pride possession of this park is the rare white crocodile (sankhua).

Rajnagar, Ph (06729) 72460; Asst Conservator of Forests, Chandbali, Ph (06786) 20372

Entry fee: Rs 20 (Indians); Rs 1000 (Foreigners)Vehicle fee: Rs 20Camera fee: Rs 25 (Indians); Rs 50 (Foreigners)Video fee: Rs 500 (Indians); Rs 1,000 (Foreigners)

Major fauna: Water monitor lizard, flying fox, wild dog, leopard, wild boar, four horned antelope, chinkara, hyena, nilgai

Where to stay: Forest rest houses and jungle lodges at Dangmal, Ekakula, Habalikhati and Gupti that have to be booked in advance.

Contact: [email protected]

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District: Kendrapara Approach: Only through waterways. Most convenient entry points: Dhamara (40 kms from Jamujhadi and 92 kms from Balasore), Chandbali (60 kms from Bhadrak and 190 kms from Bhubaneswar), Rajnagar (30 kms from Kendrapara and 130 kms from Bhubaneswar). Motor boats are available on hire from these access points. Regular bus service is available to Chandbali and Rajnagar. Nearest Airport: Bhubaneswar (120 kms) Nearest Railhead: Bhadrak (60 kms from Chandbali), Balasore (110 kms from Chandbali),

Closed: 14 May-31 July Best time to visit: Oct-JunePermit: Divisional Forest Officer,

At a glance

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Extending over 600 sq km, with more than sixty varieties of mangroves, Bhitarkanika National Park is one of the fi nest remaining patches of mangrove forests along the Indian coast. The site’s Gahirmatha beach is said to host the largest known Olive Ridley sea turtle nesting beach in the world, with half a million nesting annually. It has the highest density of saltwater crocodile in the country, with nearly 700 Crocodylus porosus. Also designated a wetland of international importance under the Ramsar Convention, it is the second largest compact mangrove ecosystem in India. Bounded by rivers on three sides and the sea on the fourth, Bhitarkanika is cut across by numerous creeks and canals, and is home to a variety of rare and endangered species. As the tide comes in, the forest

BELOW: There are specially organised tours for sighting the shy olive ridley turtles in Odisha

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47

East India

A liD le over a hundred kilometres from the frenetic bustle of Kolkata is an enchanting world, ensconced in the deep forests of the Sundarbans. Widely recognised as untamable country ruled by the Royal Bengal tiger, Sunderbans’ mystique is unparalleled. Its unique ecosystem comprises creeks and rivulets bordered with primeval mangrove forests that hold together the small islands of mud on which they stand. This is a land that is swept over twice each day, by tides up to 2.15 m high from the Bay of Bengal.

Bounded by river Hooghly in the west and the Bay of Bengal in the south, Sunderbans is the largest mangrove forest in the world (over

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District: South 24 ParganasBy Road: 100 kms from Kolkata to Sonakhali, from where launches ferry passengers to Sunderbans. Other access points include Namkhana, Bakkhali and Hingalganj, about 105, 132 and 69 kms from Kolkata, respectively.Nearest Airport: Kolkata (112 kms)Nearest Railhead: Canning (48 kms)

Open all year round; though monsoons are best avoided Best time to visit: Oct-March

Permit: For foreigners: Jt Sec, Forests, Govt of West Bengal, 4th Floor, G-Block, Writers’ Bldg, Kolkata; Ph 22145048

Major fauna: Tiger, salt water crocodile, fishing cat, wild boar, mongoose, cheetal

Where to stay: Forest lodge and forest rest-houses are available at Sajnekhali, Bakkhali and Piyali. Private accommodation also available.

At a glance

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48

ABOVE: Spo= eddeer grazing in the Sunderbans. Thebayonet-like rootsof the sundari treeprotruding out of theclayey soil can be seenin the foreground

10,200 sq km), stretching over the international border dividing India and Bangladesh, situated in what is also the world’s largest riverine delta that is formed by the mighty Ganga and Brahmaputra. Unlike other wildlife parks where roads, jeeps and guides provide a semblance of control, here visitors will fi nd themselves holding their breath and stiff ening to a state of alertness as their boat glides through the creeks and forests that shelter dangers in their impenetrable undergrowth.

The Royal Bengal tigers in Sunderbans have developed a unique characteristic of swimming in the saline waters, and are notorious as being man-eaters. Tourists are not permiD ed into the core zone but can visit the buff er zone which includes Sajnekhali Wildlife Sanctuary, Lothian Wildlife Sanctuary and Halliday Wildife Sanctuary. The park has strategically-placed watchtowers, reached through corridors covered in protective net fencing, to see its unique landscape and fauna.

In 1987, the entire Sunderban region, covering both India and Bangladesh, was declared a World Natural Heritage Site by UNESCO, and soon aG er proclaimed a Biosphere Reserve.

Olive ridley turtles swim to these shores from distant oceans from January-March to lay eggs on the beaches here.

Sundarbans is where the onslaught of humanity fades and the tiger reigns supreme. This is the world's largest tiger reserve with over 300 tigers according to 2006 tiger census.

49

East India

BELOW: A white stork in the silts

AG er Sunderbans, Jaldapara Wildlife Sanctuary is the most visited wildlife destination in West Bengal. The sanctuary was established in 1941 for the protection of the one-horned Indian rhinoceros. It is also one of the few remaining places in India where the critically-endangered Bengal fl orican or the Bengal bustard (Houbaropsis bengalensis) can be sighted.

The 216 sq km area of Jaldapara is a mosaic of dense forests, extensive belts of elephant grass (oG en reaching a height of 2-3 m), perennial streams and sandy river banks. The entire area is criss-crossed with numerous fast-fl owing streams and rivulets like Malangi, Chira Khawa and Hollong.

District: Jalpaiguri Distance: Siliguri (141 kms)Nearest Airport: BagdograNearest Railhead: Madarihat RS (75 kms) connected to Siliguri by daily Inter-City Express

Closed from: 15 June-15 SepBest time to visit: Oct-Feb

Entry fee: Rs 100 (Indians); Rs 150 (Foreigners) Jeep Safari: Rs 1,600 for 6 people (incl guide fee)

Elephant Safari: Rs 500 (Indians); Rs 750 (Foreigners)Camera fee: Rs 50 Major fauna: One-horned rhinoceros, Bengal tiger, elephant, sambar, wild pig

Where to stay: Jaldapara Tourist Lodge, Hollong Tourist Lodge, private accomodation

Contact: West Bengal Tourist Department (033) 22488271, 22437260; West Bengal Forest Dev Corp (033) 22370060

At a glance

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50

ABOVE: The one-hornedIndian rhinoceros is the most famous resident of Jaldapara Wildlife Sanctuary

Besides the rhino, the park is also home to a sizeable population of elephants, leopards, gaurs and a variety of deer and is also a paradise for bird lovers.

Interestingly, the elephants used for safaris in Jaldapara are ‘employees’ of the state government and draw monthly slalaries, have a retirement age and are eligible for pension post retirement!

Torsha river separates a stretch of deep forests from the main sanctuary. Known as Chilapata, this stretch is so impenetrable that driving through them is like carving one’s way through a green tunnel! It acts as an elephant corridor between Jaldapara and Buxa Tiger Reserve. Deep inside Chilapata forest are the remains of an ancient fort which historians say could date back to the Gupta period (4th-7th centuries AD).

The small town of Madarihat is the gateway to Jaldapara Wildlife Sanctuary. Bookings for elephant and jeep safaris can be made at Tourism Centres at Madarihat, Siliguri, Kolkata.

Khayerbari, 11 kms from Madarihat, has a Leopard Rehabilitation Centre and Nature Park set up by the Forest Department, Government of West Bengal. Totopara, 22 kms from Madarihat is home to Toto tribe, one of the least numerous tribes in the world.

All the forests of north Bengal remain closed during the monsoons (15 June-15 September). Further, it is not advisable to travel to the forests immediately after they open as monsoons in north Bengal may stretch well into October. Also, immediately after the monsoons, roads can be in a bad shape and the journey may be longer and more difficult than in the dry seasons.

51

ABOVE: Enjoy the park on an elephant safari through the dense forest criss-crossed with streams

At a glance

Spread over an area of 88 sq km in Darjeeling district, the incredibly beautiful Neora Valley National Park is one of the richest ecological zones in the country. Established in 1986, the park is named aG er river Neora that runs through it.

Nestled in the valley of the Kalimpong hills, it is known for its numerous varieties of rhododendrons, orchids and ferns. The park’s uniquecombination of mixed fl ora and climate makes it the habitat of endangered faunal species like the red panda, clouded leopard and musk deer. Other species that live here include the leopard, fi ve species of civet, black bear, sloth bear, golden cat, wild boar, leopard cat, goral,

District: DarjeelingDistances from Lava: Kalimpong (32 kms), Darjeeling (81 kms)Nearest Airport: Bagdogra (119 kms from Lava)Nearest Railhead: New Jalpaiguri railway station

Closed: July-SepCan be visited all year round Permit: From the Forest Dept in Lava/ Samsing/ Kalimpong

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Major fauna: Leopard, red panda, black bear, sloth bear, birds, butterflies

Where to stay: Budget and moderate range forest bungalows, rest houses in Lava and around Lava

Contact: West Bengal Tourism office, Darjeeling, Ph (0354) 2254050/ 2254101

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serow, barking deer, sambar and Himalayan fl ying squirrel, andHimalayan tahr.

It also has an amazing variety of buD erfl ies, the most aD ractive among them being Kaiser-i-hind and Krishna Peacock. Hathi Danda, at 2,743 m, was a route for elephant migration till 1940. Today you can trek through this uphill path and experience the thrill of identifying the many diff erent wild call.

A trek through the forests of the park, from Samsing to Bhote Ghar, Thusum, Rechela, Alubari and then Lava is both popular and thrilling. Snow-capped mountains form the backdrop forforests of oak, rhododendron, sal, and dense bamboo groves.

Neora Valley National Park has two entry points, Lava and Samsing. Lava, a picturesque hamlet, has a WBFDC-run Nature Interpretation Centre and Buddhist Monastery that are worth a visit. WBFDC also has a forest rest house in Samsing.

52


LEFT: The endearing red panda, a major highlight of the park

Set against the backdrop of the majestic Kanchenjunga massif and spread across 1,784 sq km, the Khangchendzonga National Park is one of the largest wildlife reserves in India.

With habitats ranging from wet and temperate zones to the alpine, the park is home to a variety of fauna and avifauna. The temperate zone, between 1,500 and 5,000 m is the abode of rhododendrons, that set the mountains ablaze when in bloom in early summer. The heights above 5,000 m are a treeless wilderness, which fl are out in beauty when the primulas come

to life, and carpet the land in blues, mauves and purples. An astounding 250 bird species have been recorded, including the blood pheasant, monal pheasant, and the western tragopan.

The park off ers ample opportunity for trekking. The most popular trek begins at Yuksom, and goes past the sleepy hamlets of Bakhim and Tshokha, to Dzongri’s meadows. You can also visit beautiful Buddhist monasteries, and delve into the simple life of the locals far removed from modern life.

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At a glance

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District: North Sikkim Nearest Railhead: New Jalpaiguri, Siliguri (221 kms) Nearest Airport: Bagdogra (222 kms)

Best time to visit: April-May (rhododendron season), Aug-Oct Entry fee: Rs 200 (Indians);Rs 400 (Foreigners)

Timings: 6 am - 6 pmCamera fee: Rs 20

Major fauna: Clouded leopard, snow leopard, red panda, binturong, musk deer, serow, blue sheep

Where to stay: Forest rest houses inside the park

NORTHEAST INDIA

53

ABOVE: Trekkers in the park

54


54

Notifi ed a wildlife sanctuary in 1940, the Kaziranga National Park, situated in Nagaon and Golaghat districts of Assam, lies at the foot of the Mikir hills. Located on the fl oodplains on both sides of the Brahmaputra, the park lies at the cusp of the Indo-Malayan biological realm. Patches of mixed deciduous forests are interspersed with vast stretches of savannah grasslands, wetlands and chars or river islands formed by the shiG ing course of the Brahmaputra.

Kaziranga boasts of the largest population of one-horned rhinoceros. Its dense forests have not only protected these mammals who are poached for their horns, but has also become a safe haven for other animals. As early as in 1908, Kaziranga was declared a reserve forest and hunting was banned here, and it was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1985.

The park entrances are located just off the National Highway (NH-37) that cuts right through the Kaziranga National Park, connecting Guwahati with Jorhat.

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55

Northeast India

District: Golaghat and Nagaon Nearest Railhead: Furkating (80 kms) Nearest Airport: Jorhat (96 kms), Guwahati (239 kms)

Best time to visit: Sept-Oct; Feb-March Timings: Sunrise-sunset Closed from: June-July

Entry fee: Rs 20 (Indians);Rs 250 (Foreigners)

Jeep Safari (incl entry fee, guide charges, jeep charges): Rs 1,500 for a full dayElephant safari: Rs 200 (Indians), Rs 600 (Foreigners)Camera/ video: Rs 50 (Indians); Rs 500 (Foreigners)

Major fauna: One-horned rhinoceros, wild water buffalo, elephant, swamp deer, gaur

Where to stay: Tourist lodges at Kohora, Bagori and Agoratoli inside the park

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At a glance

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The best way to spot wildlife in Kaziranga is on an elephant-back, though jeep safaris are also available. As the gentle creatures tread through the tall grass, one’s senses become keenly aware of the quiet and vastness of the horizon fringed with blue mountains.

Kaziranga is also a haven for bird lovers, with nearly 5,000 birds spoD ed at lakes inside the park, the commonest being crane and fl amingo.

BELOW: Tourists embark on elephant safaris for rhino spotting

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55

56


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Location: BarpetaNearest Railhead: Barpeta Road (20 kms)Nearest Airport: Guwahati (176 kms)

Best time to visit: Nov-April Timings: Sunrise-sunset Closed from: mid-May-SeptPermit (for Foreigners): Restricted Area Permit from the Ministry of Home Affairs, Delhi

Entry fee: Rs 20 (Indians); Rs 250 (Foreigners)Camera/ video: Rs 50 (Indians); Rs 500 (Foreigners)

Major fauna: One-horned rhinoceros, golden langur, Asiatic buffalo

Where to stay: Forest rest houses within the park

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At a glance

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Manas National Park, 176 kms by road from Guwahati, is spectacularly located at the foothills of the Himalayas, bordering Bhutan. It is divided by the Manas river into the part that is India and Royal Manas National Park in Bhutan. Regular trains and buses ply from Guwahati to Barpeta Road (136 kms), from where the forest bungalow at Mathanguri is approximately 40 kms. The park is known for its spectacular scenery, and has a variety of habitats that support diverse fauna, making it one of the richest of all Indian wildlife areas.

ABOVE: Manas National Park in Assam extends into the Royal Manas National Park in Bhutan

57

Northeast India

The park is contiguous with the Buxa Tiger Reserve in West Bengal and in 2003, it was declared part of Chirang-Ripu Elephant Reserve, which serves as the international corridor for elephant migration between India and Bhutan.

Besides the one-horned rhinoceros, one may spot the hispid hare, golden langur, wild water buff alo and clouded leopard. Considered one of the world’s rarest simian species, the golden langur was fi rst spoD ed in Manas in the mid-20th century.

In winter, hundreds of migratory birds fl ock to Manas. Among the woodland birds, watch out for the great pied hornbill. There is also a considerable variety of aquatic fl ora along river banks. There are dry and moist deciduous forests away from water courses. Grasslands cover about 50% of the park. A total of 55 mammals, 36 reptiles and three amphibians have been recorded in the park. Many animals are typical of southeast Asian rainforests and have their westernmost distribution here. Mammals include golden langur, a recently discovered endemic restricted to Manas, capped langur, Hoolock gibbon, clouded leopard, tiger (second-largest population in India), leopard, golden cat, and fi shing cat, among others.

BELOW: Golden langur, a common inhabitant of the park

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District: Jorhat Nearest Airport: Jorhat (22 kms) Nearest Railhead: Mariani (5 kms)

Timings: Sunrise-sunsetBest time to visit: Oct-Feb

Entry fee: Rs 10 (Indians); Rs 50 (Foreigners)

Guide fee: Rs 200 Vehicle fee: Rs 100 Camera fee: Rs 50 Video fee: Rs 750

Major fauna: Hoolock gibbon, tiger, leopard, clouded leopard, snow leopard, Malayan sun bear

Where to stay: Government and private places in Jorhat

At a glance

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58


Hollongapar Gibbon Sanctuary, 25 kms from Jorhat city, is dedicated to the conservation of the hoolock gibbon. It is the only sanctuary in Asia which is home to seven primate species. The hoolock gibbon was characterised endangered in the IUCN Red Data List 2000.

Many factors are considered responsible for the declining population of the hoolock gibbon, but primarily the

fragmentation and shrinking of their natural habitat.

The adventure of this sanctuary is being able to walk through the densely wooded forest, discovering the joy of sighting primates and even the occasional pugmark, while on foot! Even in extreme winter, the interiors of the tropical forest stay steamy and only the armed forest rangers who accompany visitors remain oblivious to the oppressive heat.

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LEFT: Hollongapar Gibbon Sanctuary, visited for the hollock gibbon (below) is one of the few national parks in India that can be explored on foot

Spread over 200 sq km, 35 kms from Tezpur, is Charduar, the entry point to Nameri National Park. It shares its northern boundary with the Pakke Tiger Reserve in Arunachal Pradesh.

Its beautiful deciduous forests and the adjacent river Jia Boreli, fringe the border of Assam and Arunachal Pradesh. This is therefore a popular stop enroute Bhalukpong in Arunachal Pradesh, where anglers congregate to fi sh for the famous golden mahseer.

This forest has unique fl ora, including gmelina arborea, michelia champaca, amari, and several types of orchids like dendrobium and cymbidium.

Nameri is popular as the elephant country, though one may also spot the tiger and

Himalayan black bear. It is also home to several rare bird species including the endangered white-winged wood duck and a dizzying variety of buD erfl ies and moths. Here you may spot the prized atlas moth (A= acus atlas), the largest moth in the world with a wingspan of 25-30 cms. The males of the species are smaller in size than the females.

Location: Sonitpur Nearest Railhead: Rangapara(81 kms) Nearest Airport: Tezpur (35 kms), Guwahati (210 kms)

Best time to visit: Nov-March Timings: Sunrise-sunset


Camera fee: Rs 50 (Indians); Rs 500 (Foreigners) Video fee: Rs 100 (Indians); Rs 500 (Foreigners)

Major fauna: Tiger, leopard, sambar, dhole, pygmy hog


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At a glance

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59

TOP: Fishing for mahseer in the rivers in Nameri is a popular activityABOVE: Ibis bill

60


Situated at elevations varying from 200 m at their lowest to a loG y 4,570 m in the easternmost tip of the Himalayas, Namdapha National Park is the largest protected area in this region, and shares an international border with the Myanmar forest belt. A jeep ride from the border town of Miao (150 kms) takes you to this wilderness paradise.

With an area spanning a massive 1,985 sq km, this is the third largest national park in India. Popular among trekkers, these

thick rainforests are home to the tiger, leopard, clouded leopard and the grey ghost of the Himalayas, the snow leopard. It is one of the few national parks where camping is allowed inside the forest. It is also a birdwatcher’s paradise with more than 400 species, some found only in this region. The inaccessibility of the greater area of the park has contributed to its pristineness.

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District: Changlang Nearest Airport: Mohanbari, Dibrugarh (164 kms)Nearest Railhead: Margherita,Assam

Best time to visit: Nov-MarchTimings: Sunrise-sunsetClosed from: June-Oct

Permit (for Foreigners): From Ministry of Home Affairs, Delhi, or the Deputy Commissioner, Changlang District, Miao sub-division, Arunachal Pradesh

Entry fee: Rs 10 (Indians); Rs 50 (Foreigners) Jeep Safari charges: Guide fee: Rs 200 Vehicle fee: Rs 100 Camera fee: Rs 500 Video fee: Rs 750

Major fauna: Tiger, leopard, clouded leopard, snow leopard, Malayan sun bear

Where to stay: Private accommodation at Miao

At a glance

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BELOW: A traveller gazing at the scenic splendour of Namdapha

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61

Northeast India

Tucked in the western bend of Arunachal Pradesh, the Eaglenest Sanctuary is draped in tropical, subtropical and temperate forests. It is believed that the sanctuary acquired its name from the Indian Army regiment called Red Eagle, stationed here in the 1950s to make a road to access the India-China border.

The eastern half of Eaglenest is drained by the Tippi Naala (Tippi river) which joins the Kameng river at Tippi village on the Bhalukpong–Bomdila highway. Several smaller streams including Buhiri Nadi and Dihung Nadi in the western half of the area fl ow

District: West KamengNearest Railhead: Bhalukpong (130 kms)Nearest Airport: Tezpur (190 kms)Best time to visit: Nov-May

At a glance

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down to join the Brahmaputra separately.

The park came into prominence in 2006, when renowned ornithologist Ramana Athreya discovered a new species of babbler, which he named Bugun Liocichla. Besides this rare bird, Eaglenest has over 450 species of avifauna, including cormorant, heron, black stork, and oriental white (black-headed) ibis. Bird Life International has designated Eaglenest an important Bird Area, with Blyth’s tragopan identifi ed as a vulnerable species.

The sanctuary can be reached by bus or taxi via the Tawang-Tezpur road. The unpaved road that begins from the base of the sanctuary runs through the Eagle Nest Pass (2,800 m).

Major fauna: Red panda, golden cat, clouded leopard, black stork, oriental white ibis

Where to stay: CTB rest houses and private accomodation

ABOVE: A hornbill (left) is oft seen in the dense forests of Eaglenest

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Located in East Kameng district of Arunachal Pradesh, the Pakke Tiger Reserve (also called Pakhui), is also called the ‘land of hornbills’. It is one of the lesser known reserves of India and one of the most well-protected tiger reserve in Arunachal Pradesh. Its main entrance is at Seĳ usa (21 km from Saibari in Assam) off NH-52.

The tropical forest, nestled in the foothills of the eastern Himalayas, is contiguous with the Nameri Tiger Reserve. Pakke lies on the border of Assam and Arunachal Pradesh, at the junction where the plains of Assam suddenly rise into the hills of Arunachal Pradesh .

Of the seven main herbivore species in the park, the elephant, barking deer, gaur and sambhar are commonly spoD ed. Recently, four melanistic golden cats and

District: East Kameng Nearest Railhead: Bhalukpong Nearest Airport: Tezpur

Best time to visit: Nov-May Timings: Sunrise-sunset

Permit: Inner Line Permit from the office of Dy Resident Commissioner (www.arunachalipr.gov.in)

Entry fee: Rs 50 (Indians);Rs 250 (Foreigners) Major fauna: Elephant, barking deer, gaur, sambar

Where to stay: Private accommodation at Bhalukpong

Contact: (03778) 200016

At a glance

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a Chinese pangolin were seen here during a camera-trapping exercise. Camera traps are remotely-activated cameras used to spot animals even when no human is present.

At least 296 bird species have been recorded here, including the white-cheeked hill-partridge, ibis bill, Asian emerald cuckoo, red-headed trogon, and green pigeon.

The tropical semi-evergreen forests are scaD ered along the lower plains and foothills, up to an elevation of 600 m. The upper part is dominated by trees like hollock (Terminalia myriocarpa), kadam (Anthocephalus cadamba), semal (Bombax ceiba), dhuna (Canarium strictum), phulchampa (Elaeocarpus aristatus) and bonsum (Phoebe goalparensis).

The vegetation is dense, with a high diversity of lianas and climbers (over 30 species recorded so far), with many more species as yet undiscovered. At places, evergreen and semi-evergreen vegetation types merge. Thick ferns and orchids form the bulk of the epiphytic growth; a total of 43 orchid species and 29 fern species have been recorded so far, with many more waiting to be documented.

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62


Located in Manipur, Keibul Lamjao is the world’s only ‘fl oating’ sanctuary, with 40 sq km of wetland overgrown with 1.5 m deep fl oating vegetation (called phumdi). These phumdis are created by collecting organic garbage and biomass with soil particles that have been thickened into a solid form.

Apart from the vegetation and terrain, a major aD raction is the Loktak lake, the largest freshwater lake in India, a large portion of which falls within the park.

This national park is one of the last natural habitats of the endangered brow-antlered deer

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District: Bishnupur Nearest Airport & Railhead: Dimapur (32 kms)

Best time to visit: Oct-MarchTimings: Sunrise-sunsetClosed during monsoonPermit: Inner Line Permit required


Guide fee: Rs 200 Vehicle fee: Rs 100 Camera fee: Rs 50 Video fee: Rs 750

Major fauna: Sangai, hog deer, wild boar, otter, Indian civet, jungle cat, flying fox, sambar

Where to stay: Private accommodation at Sendra Island

At a glance

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or sangai, considered the most beautiful deer in the world. This rare and inaccessible reserve, which is one of the only notifi ed and protected areas in Manipur, is threatened today by activities like the construction of a barrage by the National Hydro Electricity Power Corporation.

The park is a prominent birding site, with both migratory and resident avifauna species like the east Himalayan pied kingfi sher, black kite, lesser sky-lark, northern hill myna, and Burmese pied myna recorded here.

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63

ABOVE: The enchanting floating islands of Keibul have to be seen to be believed

One of Mizoram’s best known parks, the Murlen National Park lies close to the Indo-Myanmar border near the Chin Hills. Consisting of tropical, semi-evergreen and sub-montane forests that include species of bamboo and orchids and 35 species of certifi ed medicinal plants, the park is home to some unique fl ora and fauna. Spot the endangered hoolock gibbon or

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District: Champhai Nearest Airport: Lengpui (72 kms) Nearest Railhead: Silchar (138 kms)

Best time to visit: Oct-March Timings: Sunrise-sunsetClosed from: June-Oct

Permit: Overseas visitors must contact the Ministry of Home Affairs, Delhi for their permit

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Entry fee: Rs 10 (Indians); Rs 50 (Foreigners) Guide fee: Rs 200 Vehicle fee: Rs 100 Camera fee: Rs 50 Video fee: Rs 750

Major fauna: Tiger, leopard, sambar, barking deer, malayan giant squirrel


At a glance

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the white-browed nuthatch fl y from branch to branch, and tigers and leopards licking their paws.

So thick is this forest that, on a sunny day, only about one percent of the sun’s rays actually penetrates the foliage.

64


BELOW: A trail weaves through the thick foliage

ABOVE: A lioness and her cubs in their natural habitat

65

West IndiaCentral India

Gir National Park, located on the southwest fringe of Saurashtra peninsula, is the last bastion of the Asiatic lion, and one of the most signifi cant protected areas anywhere in the world.

In the wild, the Asiatic lion or Panthera leo persica, whose habitat once ranged from Greece to central India, is now confi ned to 1,142 sq km of the Gir protected area in Gujarat. The sanctuary is criss-crossed by seven rivers, namely Hiran, Saraswati, Datardi, Shingoda, Machhundri, Godavari and Raval.

It is believed that the Nawab of Junagadh took the initiative of saving these lions from extinction in 1907, and banned hunting, following a famine in the region. There were only about a dozen lions leG then but by the time the fi rst census was carried out in 1936 their number had risen to 287. Apart from Asiatic lions, Gir National Park is home to leopards, sloth bears, jungle cats, and desert cats. It also has over 300 species of birds.

District: Junagadh Nearest Airport: Keshod(82 kms), Ahmedabad (340 kms)Nearest Railhead: Junagadh(60 kms)

Best time to visit: mid Oct-mid JuneTimings: Sunrise to sunsetClosed from: Mid June-Aug

Entry fee: Indians - Mon-Fri Rs 400, Sat-Sun Rs 500, Rs 600 on holidays, for vehicles carrying up to 6 people. Foreigners - $40

Safari charges Rs 1,650 (Indians); Rs 3,250 (Foreigners) Vehicle fee: Rs 500 Camera fee: Rs 100 (Indians); Rs 500 (Foreigners)

Major fauna: Asiatic lion, sloth bear, cobra, jungle cat, cobra, crested serpent eagle

Where to stay: Cottages within the park

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At a glance

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WEST INDIA

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66


66

Velavadar was formerly the hunting ground of the Maharaja of Bhavnagar, where he would hunt for blackbucks. The blackbuck for which the park was created lives mostly in the grasslands on the northern side. Found only in South Asia, the blackbuck once lived all across India, but now the largest population is here, and few are found outside Gujarat.

The conservation of the blackbuck here has been a big success, however, it remains endangered due to its dependence on such a limited area to live in, but the local population has risen from a low of 200 in 1966 to around 3,400 now.

Other animals in the sanctuary include the nilgai (another Indian antelope), jackal, wolf, jungle cat, and fox, but the other main

District: BhavnagarNearest Railhead: Dhola (50 kms) Nearest Airport: Bhavnagar (42 kms), Ahmedabad (150 kms)

Best time to visit: Dec-MarchTimings: Sunrise to sunsetClosed from: June-Oct

At a glance

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Entry fee: Rs 200 (Indians); $20 (Foreigners)Vehicle fee: Rs 200

Major fauna: Blackbuck, wolf, Houbara bustard, hyena and lesser florican


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aD raction is the bird life. Pelicans, fl amingos, white and painted storks, three kinds of cranes, many birds of prey, and the rare Stolizca’s Bushchat all live here, mostly in the southern part of the park, where all the wetlands lie.

ABOVE: Blackbuck antelopes crossing a dirt trackBELOW: Nilgai

67

West India

District: Jamnagar Nearest Airport: Jamnagar (50 kms); Rajkot (145 kms)Nearest Airport: Jamnagar (30 kms)

Best time to visit: Nov-FebTimings: Sunrise to sunset


Camera Fee: Rs 50 (Indians); Rs 250 (Foreigners)

Major fauna: Marine fish, octopus, starfish, jellyfish, crab plover, flamingo

Where to stay: Private accommodation available at Jamnagar

At a glance

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67

The Marine National Park, in the Gulf of Kutch, is situated off the coast in Jamnagar district of Gujarat, and comprises an archipelago of 42 islands. Coral reefs, mangrove swamp forests, mudfl ats, sea weeds, and rocky shoals form the landscape of the shallow waters of the Marine National Park. This is the fi rst national marine park in India, notifi ed under the provisions of the Wildlife (protection) Act, 1972. It shows the variety of marine life found in the islands of Pirotan, Narara, Ajad, Kalubhar, among others, and has thriving bird diversity including crab plovers, fl amingos,

and pelicans. Visit the park during low tide when there is much more to catch the eye.

Visit beaches along the coast, such as Narara, 110 km from Jamnagar off the Dwarka road, where one can walk among the corals at low tide. The sheer beauty of the sea and endless marine vegetation takes your breath away.

Ensure you reach the park early, so that you get enough time to explore this hidden gem.

BELOW: Mangroves in Marine National Park

BELOW: Seeing the flamingos in Kutch, swooping, gliding in large numbers is a sight to remember

Situated in the surreal salt marshes of the Great Rann of Kutch, the Kutch Desert Wildlife Sanctuary surprises one with the bewitching fl ora and fauna inhabiting its seemingly barren landscape. Notifi ed in February 1986, the sanctuary’s northern boundary forms the international border between India and Pakistan. It is one of the largest seasonal saline wetlands with an average water depth between 0.5-1.5 m.

Every year in winter, thousands of greater fl amingos come to nest in the renowned ‘Flamingo City’, situated in the mud fl ats of the Rann, about 10 kms from Nir outpost on Kala Dungar hill, and the water bodies don a pink shade with the refl ection of these majestic birds. This is the only regular breeding spot for fl amingos in India. The winter months also witness the exuberant, Rann Utsav, organised by the government of Gujarat. A window to

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District: Kutch Nearest Airport and Railhead: Bhuj (110 kms) Best time to visit: Oct-MarchTimings: Sunrise to sunset Closed from: July-Sep

Entry fee: Rs 10 (Indians);Rs 50 (Foreigners)

Camera fee: Rs 50

Major fauna: Wolf, hyena, jackal, chinkara, wild ass, flamingo

Where to stay: PWD guest house, private accommodation available at Rapar; Tourist department guest house at Dholavira

At a glance

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the local culture, cuisine and craG s, the festival draws tourists from far.

Not far from the sanctuary, about a 100 kms from Rapar, is the Harappan site of Dholavira. While in Kutch, you should also witness the strange dancing light phenomena, locally known as Chir BaD i (ghost lights). Kala Dungar, on Pachchham island at the distance of about 80 km from Bhuj, is the highest point (438 m) within the sanctuary.

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West India

70


70

Established in 1973, Wild Ass Sanctuary in the LiD le Rann of Kutch, is one of the last bastions of the endangered Indian wild ass (khur). Engage a guide to sight this nimble animal, as it tends to scoot at the slightest hint of invasion.

The largest wildlife sanctuary in India (4,954 sq km), this has a unique biosphere classifi ed as ‘a large ecotone - a transitional zone between marine and terrestrial ecosystems.’ During monsoons, the otherwise barren landscape of Rann gets inundated by water, sending the fauna scuD ling to the elevated plateaus or islands in the marshes locally

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ABOVE: The beauty of the salt marshes in Little Rann of Kutch, particularly on a moonlit night, is surrealBELOW: Indian fox in Wild Ass Sanctuary

District: KutchDistance: 45 kms from Viramgam Nearest Airport: Ahmedabad (130 kms)Nearest Railhead: Dhrangadhra (16 kms), Ahmedabad (130 kms)

Best time to visit: Nov-JuneTimings: Sunrise-sunset

Entry fee: Rs 10 (Indians);

Rs 50 (Foreigners)Jeep Safari: Rs 2,000Vehicle fee: Rs 20 (Indians);Rs 100 (Foreigners)Camera fee: Rs 50 (Indians)

Major fauna: Indian wild ass, wolf, desert fox, nilgai, chinkara

Where to stay: Dhrandadhra, Zainabad and Dasada

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At a glance

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71

West India

known as ‘bets’. For its unique landscape, bewitching fl ora and fauna, the sanctuary has been shortlisted by UNESCO to be included in its World Heritage list.

There are three entry points to the sanctuary. While Dhrangadhra and Range Bajana are best accessed from Ahmedabad, 124 kms and 98 kms away, respectively, Adeshar is closer to Bhuj (160 kms away). Dhrangadhra is best connected via public transport, while Range Bajana is the recommended entry point for avid bird watchers, as the marshes here play host to thousands of pelicans, fl amingos and other migratory birds in winters. Adeshar is the least developed in tourist infrastructure. While local jeeps can also be hired, day safaris are readily arranged by resort owners from Dhrandadhra, Zainabad and Dasada.

BELOW: The lithe and beautiful wild ass galloping in its habitat

OG en referred to as the ‘Jewel of Vidharbha’, Tadoba-Andhari Tiger Reserve, nestled in the bosom of the Moharli hills in Chandrapur district of Maharashtra, is the state’s oldest and largest national park. A short bus ride from Chandrapur (32 kms) takes you to this wilderness paradise.

The name Tadoba-Andhari is derived from the ‘Tadoba’ or ‘Taru’, the tutelary deity of the local tribes inhabiting this forest, while Andhari is the river that meanders through this park. Legend goes that a village chief called Taru was killed by a tiger in these forests. A shrine dedicated to him stands on the banks of Tadoba Lake, which brims with devotees especially during a local fair held every year in December and January.

The park has predominantly southern dry deciduous forests, with teak being a signifi cant species. A rare plant species called Kach Kujali (Mucuu prureans) found here is used to treat Parkinson’s disease.

This park is by far the best in Maharashtra for tiger viewing. At this reserve, it is not a maD er of whether you will see a tiger, but rather how

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TOP: Sambar deer ABOVE: Racket-tailed drongo

72


District: Chandrapur Nearest Airport: Nagpur (140 kms)Nearest Railhead: Chandrapur (45 kms)

Best time to visit: Feb-MayTimings: 6 am-11 am, 3 pm-6pm Closed from: July-SepNo safari on Tuesdays

Major fauna: Tiger, leopard, sloth bear, hyena, jackal, wild dog

Where to stay: Accommodation available within the park

Contact: Conservator of Forest & Field Director, Chandrapur, Ph (07172) 51414.................................................

At a glance

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many you will spot. The most recent census, carried out in 2012, found that the core area has 43 tigers. There are another 22 tigers in the buff er area, and a further 35 in the area surrounding the park.

A biodiversity hotspot, the reserve abounds in a dizzying variety of avifauna, including malabar pied hornbill, Indian piD a, Indian painted francolin, Asian paradise fl ycatcher, and golden oriole, among others. A whooping 220 species of buD erfl ies have been recorded here, including the endangered Danaid eggfl y and the great eggfl y. Look for mugger crocodiles sun-bathing on the banks of Tadoba Lake, another highlight of the park. The other reptiles include the endangered Indian python, Indian monitor, common cobra and Russel’s viper.

ABOVE: Tadoba is the best place to sight tigers in this western Indian state

73

West India

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Navegaon National Park, located in Gondia district of Maharashtra, is set amidst lush green hills. A popular tourist destination in the Vidarbha region, the park is approximately 35 kms from the village of Sakoli, which lies on the Nagpur-Raipur national highway. The manmade Navegaon Lake set within the park has a watchtower beside it that aff ords a bird’s eye view of the dense forest.

This national park off ers a large diversity of fl ora and fauna. Make sure you book yourself a safari, plentifully off ered by local guides outside the entrance of

the park. Of course, while your eyes are open the widest to spot the elusive tiger, do not miss out on leopards hiding behind trees, wild dog and sambar.

The sparkling waters of Navegaon Lake host over 350 species of birds, most of them migratory, from north Europe, Siberia, Rann of Kutch, Ladakh and Tibet. You can also enjoy a boat ride on the lake and sit back to enjoy the calmness and quietude of this luxuriant jungle.

ABOVE: The king of the jungle, cooling off in a stream in the park

74


District: GondiaNearest Airport: Nagpur (150 kms) Nearest Railhead: Deulgaon (2 kms), on Chandrapur-Gondia railway line

Best time to visit: April-MayTimings: Sunrise-sunset

Major fauna: leopard, sloth bear, gaur, sambar, chital

Where to stay: Rest houses or youth hostel in Gondia. National Park also offers cottages, a tree top retreat with two suites. For reservations, contact MTDC.

Contact: Deputy Conservator of Forests, Gondia, Ph (07182) 226399

At a glance

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SOUTH INDIA

ABOVE: The Nilgiris form a brilliant setting for the park

Bandipur National Park, spread over 872 sq km of lush green and mesmerisingly beautiful Nilgiri range, is one of south India’s prime wilderness areas. This park is a part of the 6,000 sq km Nilgiri Biosphere Reserve, and is criss-crossed by three fast-fl owing perennial rivers, Nugu, Moyar and Kabini. The landscape is doD ed with a variety of tree and bamboo vegetation, making it a perfect habitat for its inhabitants, and providing a surreal seD ing for shuD erbugs.

Through the 18th and 19th centuries, Bandipur was the hunting ground of the

maharajas of Mysore. AG er Bandipur came under the purview of Project Tiger in 1973, tourists can visit only a particular zone, where they can go on guided safaris. The ever elusive tiger is of course the major aD raction here, but to spot one is a maD er of pure luck.

Situated at the top of Himavad Gopalaswamy BeD a, the highest hill inside the park, is Venugopalaswamy Temple. It lies in the core area and is frequented by elephants.

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District: ChamarajanagarNearest Airport: Mysore (70 kms), Bangalore (220 kms)Nearest Railhead: Nanjungud (55 kms), Mysore (80 kms),Ooty (50 kms)

Best time to visit: Oct-MayTimings: 6.30am-11am, 2.30pm-5.30 pm

Entry fee: Rs 10 (Indians); Rs 50 (Foreigners)Guide fee: Rs 200

Vehicle fee: Rs 100Elephant Safari: Rs 700 per person per hour (Indians)Camera fee: Rs 500Video fee: Rs 750

Major fauna:Elephant, gaur, tiger, sloth bear, mugger

Where to stay: Options for both high-end and budget places are available in and around the park

At a glance

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Notifi ed in 1988, the breathtakingly beautiful Nagarhole National Park, 80 kms from the heart of Mysore city, is nestled in the bosom of the Brahmagiri range. It is watered by the Kabini, Lakshmana Tirtha and Nagarhole rivers, besides several serpentine streams.

The park derives its name Nagarhole from ‘naga’, meaning snake and ‘hole’, which means stream. Spread over 643 sq km of lush green landscape, it forms an important animal corridor that runs through the neighbouring Bandipur National Park, which makes up a part of the Nilgiri Biosphere Reserve.

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A unique feature of these moist deciduous forests, particularly in Nagarhole, are the open grassy swamps called hadlus. Here, the soil is clay-like, perenially moist and supports growth of luxuriant grass all year round.

Its vast forests are home to tigers, leopards, elephants, gaurs, barking deer, wild dogs, and bonnet macaques. The Nagarhole forests are perhaps one of the best remaining habitats of the Asian elephant. Over a thousand of these mighty beasts are estimated to range over this tract.

During the monsoons, when water and forage are plentiful,

76

District: Kodagu and Mysore Nearest Railhead and Airport: Mysore (90 kms), Bangalore (220 kms)

Best time to visit: Oct-MayTimings: 6 am-8 pm; 3 pm-5 pmClosed from: May-June

Entry fee: Rs 25 (Indians); Rs 200 (Foreigners)Camera fee: Free

Major fauna: Tiger, leopard, elephant, bonnet macaque, great egret, warbler, painted stork, Asian open-billed stork

Where to stay: Forest houses are available inside the park. For more information, contact Wildlife Department, Mysore: Ph: (0821) 2480902

At a glance

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ABOVE: A family of chitalsBELOW: The endearing Asiatic elephant

the elephants are evenly distributed. This season is the best time to spot herds of elephants wandering in the forest. A striking ecological feature of these elephants is their seasonal migration. The gaurs too are commonly spoD ed here. Herds of 20-30 gaurs can be seen grazing as you pass by in a jeep.

Recognised as an Important Bird Area, the park has over 270 species of birds including the critically endangered Oriental white-backed vulture, vulnerable lesser adjutant, greater spoD ed eagle and the Nilgiri wood-pigeon.

Most tourists arrive at the park from Hunsur, 45 kms north of the park, while the main entrance is at Veeranahosahalli (52 kms).

You might spot a Malabar squirrel eating nuts off a pine tree, herds of chital congregating near a waterhole or a group of gaurs looking at you while you explore the forests in a jeep. You can always engage a guide to walk along the approved trails inside the Park.

78


Mudumalai National Park, situated on the foothills of the Nilgiri mountains, is along the Mysore-Ooty highway. Mudumalai, which loosely translates to ‘old hills’ in Tamil, is one of the oldest protected areas of India and was notifi ed as a sanctuary in 1940 and a Tiger Reserve in 2009. The park, which is spread over 321 sq km of lush greens, has fi ve ranges: Masinagudi, Theppakadu, Nellakota, Kargudi and Mudumalai.

Administered separately, the Bandipur National Park (Karnataka) and the Mudumalai Wildlife Sanctuary (Tamil Nadu) are parts of a single spectacular ecological continuum that also includes Nagarhole (in Karnataka) and Wayanad (in Kerala). Buses from Ooty (35 kms) run every couple of hours to this park; jeeps can also be shared or hired.

With over 600 elephants in the park as well as an elephant camp at Theppakadu, these large pachyderms are the easiest to spot. The camp is an artifi cial enclosure where elephants are reared in captivity and trained to carry logs. Every day between 8 am-9 am, visitors can feed these tuskers.

Rides into the parks on specially laid-out dirt roads called ‘game roads’, which usually pass close to grazing areas, salt licks and water holes off er excellent views of wildlife. Deer, gaur and langur can be seen at close range. The Forest Department at Mudumalai off ers hour-long mini-bus safaris inside the park.

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ABOVE RIGHT: Mudumalai National Park is situated in the bosom of the Niligiri mountains and is spread over 321 sq km of lush greensABOVE LEFT: Malabar giant squirrelFACING PAGE BELOW: Elephants are the pride of the jungle in MadumalaiFACING PAGE ABOVE: Elephant Care Centre inside the park

79

South India

79

About seven kms away is the secluded village of Masinagudi with a cluster of hamlets like Theppakadu, Bokkapuram, which are doD ed with resorts and homestays nestled in thick forests. There are night safaris in open top jeeps arranged by resorts and guides here. The night safaris are conducted on the peripheral roads running through the adjoining forest and not into the park. Such night safaris are sometimes illegal and disturb the animals of the region.

District: Nilgiri Nearest Railhead: Ooty (30 kms)Nearest Airport: Coimbatore (115 kms)

Best time to visit: Feb-May;Sep-Oct Timings: 7 am-9 am; 3 pm-6 pm

Entry fee: Rs 150Jeep Safari (incl entry fee, guide charges, jeep charges): Rs 200Elephant safari: Rs 120

Camera/ video: Rs 100

Major fauna: Bengal tiger, leopard, jungle cat, striped hyena, golden jackal

Where to stay: Forest rest houses within the park. Prior reservation is mandatory. There are many private resorts and guest houses around the park and also in the quaint village of Masinagudi

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At a glance

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Notifi ed in 1967 to protect the endangered black buck, Point Calimere spreads over 21 sq km and is also one of the most popular birding destinations in south India. Included in the Ramsar list of Wetlands of International Importance, some 257 species of birds have been recorded in the sanctuary, 119 of them waterbirds, including the vulnerable species spoonbill sandpiper and grey pelican and some 30,000 greater and lesser fl amingos. The site serves as the breeding ground or nursery for many commercially important species of fi sh, as well as for prawns and crabs. Some 35,000

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fi shermen and agriculturalists support their families around the borders of the sanctuary.

Situated at the tip of NagapaD inam district, Point Calimere’s landscape is a combination of marshy grasslands, mudfl ats and tropical dry evergreen forests.

The sanctuary has had quite a few successes in wildlife conservation and the blackbuck population has gone up from 600 to 1,450 (2005 census).

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District: NagapattinamNearest Airport: Tiruchirapalli (180 kms) Nearest Railhead:Thiruthuraipoondi (50 kms)

Best time to visit: Mar-AugTimings: 6 am-5 pm

Entry fee: Rs 10Jeep Safari charges: Rs 120Guide fee: Rs Rs 100Vehicle fee: Rs 50

Camera fee: Rs 100Video fee: Rs 150

Major fauna: Wild boar, chital, spotted deer, bonnet macaque and black buck

Where to stay: Forest rest houses at Point Calimere.

Contact: Wildlife Warden Point Calimere WLS Ph: 04365-253092, 08827654734, 08876452347

At a glance

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BELOW: The graceful blackbucks

At the very core of the enormous Nilgiri Biosphere Reserve is Silent Valley National Park, which spreads across 237 sq km, and is one of India’s most treasured tropical rain forests. This is the only remaining undisturbed tropical evergreen rainforest in India.

Situated in Palakkad district, the National Park gets its name because unlike other forests, there is no buzz or hum of the omnipresent cicada. In fact, this green canopy lies almost silent with just the chirping of birds every now and then.

The park is locally called Sairandhrivanam, meaning Sairandhri’s forest in Malayalam

aG er Draupadi, of the epic Mahabharata, who disguised herself as Sairandhri when she and her Pandava husbands were exiled.

Watered by the crystal clear and perennial Kuntipuzha river, Silent Valley National Park’s highest peak is Angida, and the altitude of the park ranges from 658 m to 2,328 m.

There are about 34 species of mammals here, including the tiger, leopard, elephant, gaur, lion-tailed macaque, the Nilgiri langur and the Nilgiri tahr. There are over 1,000 species of fl owering plants.

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District: Palakkad Nearest Airport: Coimbatore (100 kms),Kochi (160 kms) Nearest Railhead: Palakkad (45 kms)

Best time to visit: Nov-Feb Timings: Sunrise-sunset

Entry fee: Rs 50Jeep Safari charges: Rs 1,000Guide fee: Rs 150Vehicle fee: Rs 250Camera fee: Rs 50

Video fee: Rs 120

Major fauna: Niligiri langur, Malabar giant squirrel, Nilgiri tahr, peshwa’s bat (Myotis peshwa) and hairy-winged bat. There are nine species of bats, rats and mice...............................................Where to stay: Forest rest houses at Mukkali. Accommodation in suites and rooms will be available only on advance booking

At a glance

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ABOVE: The endangered Nilgiri tahr

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Situated in the bosom of the Cardamom and Pandalam Hills in the Thekkady district, Periyar Tiger Reserve and National Park is spread over 777 sq km of luxuriant greens and picturesque lakes. Two of the most important rivers of Kerala, the serpentine Periyar and the Pamba water this park.

With thick forests of tropical evergreen and semi-evergreen trees, and over 1,965 fl owering plants, Periyar Tiger Reserve is the perfect retreat for nature lovers. During spring and summer seasons, one fi nds several hues of orange, crimson, pink and purple, breaking the monotony of green.

One of the major aD ractions here is a 26 sq km artifi cial lake at the very core of the park, where there are provisions for bamboo raG ing and boating. Make sure you go

on an early morning ride and book upper deck seats for a beD er view. In addition to elephant rides, cruises on the lake and treks to the ruined Mangaladevi temple - a beautiful old temple situated in the heart of Thekkady forest, this sanctuary allows you to watch and photograph wild elephants at close quarters.

Although more than 40 tigers dwell in these forests, the chances of actually seeing one here are very low because the elusive cat wisely prefers the more quiet interiors, away from the noise of boats and the chaD er of humans. It is wonderful to spot Eurasian oD ers all around the park. Their habit of standing on hind legs to look out for danger is an endearing habit and which is why they are a favourite with photographers.


BELOW: The scenic Periyar

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Most tourists arrive at the park from Hunsur, 45 kms north of the park, while the main entrance is at Veeranahosahalli (52 kms). Don’t be surprised if you spot a Malabar squirrel eating nuts off a pine tree or herds of chital inside the park congregating near a waterhole. You can always engage a guide to walk along the approved trails.

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South India

District: Idukki and PathanamthittaNearest Airport: Madurai (150 kms), Kochi (130 kms) Nearest Railhead: Kottayam (114 kms)

Best time to visit: Oct-Feb Timings: Sunrise-sunset

Entry fee: Rs 300Jeep Safari charges: Guide fee: Rs 200Vehicle fee: Rs 225Camera fee: Rs 50 Video fee: Rs 120

Major fauna: Tiger, elephant, gaur, sambar, wild pig, Indian giant squirrel, Travancore flying squirrel, jungle cat

Where to stay: Kerala Tourism Development Corporation runs three charming hotels within the park. Arrangements for boat trips and elephant rides can also be made through these hotels. All other hotels and resorts are located only a short distance from the national park.

Contact: KTDC Ph: +91 9400008590

At a glance

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TOP: The imposing gaurABOVE: Boat ride in the park

The Tirupati Wildlife Management Division comprises the Sri Venkateswara National Park and the Sri Venkateswara Sanctuary—which together cover about 697 sq km across ChiD oor and Cuddapah districts in Andhra Pradesh. These are dry deciduous forests with some interesting fauna: leopard, bear, mouse deer, slender loris, Indian golden gecko, among others.

The park is known for its many waterfalls including the Talakona, Gundalakona and Gunjana. The diversity of fl ora is even more impressive—there are some 1,500 species of plants, of which many are rare and at least 24 are endemic. The most famous of these is the

District: Cuddapah and Chittor Nearest Railhead: Tirupati (10 kms) Nearest Airport: Tirupati (10 kms)

Best time to visit: Oct-May Timings: Sunrise-sunset

Entry fee: Rs 200 Vehicle Fee: Rs 225Camera Fee: Rs 150

Video Fee: Rs 350

Major fauna: Tiger, elephant, chital, barking deer, sambar

Where to stay: Forest rest houses within the Park and in the many hotels and guest houses in the famous temple town. or prefer to stay in any of the luxury hotels in Tirupati City.

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Red Sanders tree. Others in the rare list include the Cycas beddomei, Shorea talura, Syzygium alternifolium and the medicinal herb Pimpinella tirupatiensis.

Entry into the park needs permission from the Chief Wildlife Warden. However, there are tourist zones such as the Eco-Tourism (CBET) and the Mamandur CBET, ope which are open to all.

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At a glance

ABOVE LEFT: The Tirumala hills carpeted with dense green in Sri Venkateswara National ParkBELOW: Wild boar spotted in the park

Established in 1983, the Mahatma Gandhi Marine National Park, is located about 20 kms from Port Blair and comprises about 12 islands. It is a treasure house of a dizzying variety of marine life and corals.

The islands house a variety of fauna, ranging from the Andaman wild pig and spoD ed deer to civet and bat. Reptiles such as the king cobra, krait, pit viper and day gecko wander around the vast forest stretches. Interestingly, these islands

are the nesting grounds for leatherback turtles (the largest turtle species in the world) during November and February. The hawksbill sea turtle, and olive ridleys live in the shallow coastal waters.

The park is an ornithologist’s paradise, with a variety of birds including the roseate tern, the black-naped tern are found here.

District: South Andaman Nearest Airport: Port Blair (20 kms)

Best time to visit: Dec-April Timings: 5.30 am-6.30 pm

Permit: The Forest Department permit costs Rs 50 per person and is available at the counter on Wandoor jetty. Normally only 150 permits are issued each day on first-come first-serve basis

Boat ride to Red Skin Island: Rs 300Camera Fee: Rs 25

Major fauna: Andaman wild pig, spotted deer, civet, bats, leatherback turtle

Where to stay: Accommodation available at Port Blair

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At a glance

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ABOVE: The pristine blue waters of the national park

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Central IndiaANDAMAN & NICOBAR ISLANDS

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Situated in the Great Nicobar Island, the largest of the Nicobar group of islands, the 426 sq km Campbell Bay National Park is located 480 kms south of Port Blair. Incidentally, it is just 190 kms north of the Indonesian island, Sumatra in the eastern Indian Ocean.

Campbell Bay National Park, together with Galathea National Park, is part of the Great Nicobar Biosphere Reserve. Declared a national park in 1992, this park is famous for its orchids and fl owering plants. The park’s fl ora includes tropical evergreen forests, tree ferns and mangroves and fauna includes crab-eating macaque, giant robber crab, megapode, and Nicobar pigeon.

The best time to visit the park is during spring when the entire island is a burst of vibrant colours, a breathtaking sight for anyone! The several watchtowers in the park are a major aD raction for the avid bird watchers.

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District: NicobarDistance: Port Blair (250 kms)Nearest Airport: Port Blair. Pawan Hans helicopters operates flights to Campbell Bay from Port Blair on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday. Ferry services are also available.

Open all year round Best time to visit: March-Oct

Permit: A landing fee to be taken from the Deputy Commisioner’s Office, Ph 03192 233089

Major fauna: Crab-eating macaque, megapode, giant robber crab and Nicobar pigeon.

Where to stay: Hotles, lodges, camping sites available, particularly at Havelock Island

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At a glance

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ABOVE: Nicobar pigeonBELOW: An aerial view of the island

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WHEN TO COMEMost of the national parks and sanctuaries in India are closed during the monsoon months of June to September due to bad roads or flooded paths. The parks in the Himalayan region are rendered inaccessible in the winter months with a thick snow cover. It is best to check with the respective State Forest departments and Tourism departments on their websites for the latest information regarding opening and closing dates before planning your trip.

Weather-wise, the ideal time to visit the parks in most of India, except those in the higher Himalayan region, would be November to March, when the days are pleasant and cool. Having said this, the best time to actually spot wildlife is in the summer months of late March to June when, because of the extreme heat, tigers and other animals come out in search of water to the few waterholes that have not dried.

To sight avifauna, visit in winters when migratory birds from the northern climes come in huge numbers.

WHAT TO WEARFor the traveller the general thumb rule would be to wear sensible and comfortable clothes that do not attract unnecessary attention.

In case you are travelling during the hot Indian summer, loose cotton clothes that will protect you from the heat and keep you cool are ideal. Preferably, wear full-sleeved clothes and a comfortable, closed footwear to protect yourself against insects and bugs. Avoid wearing very bright colours that may stand out and distract animals. Be sure to keep a headcover and wear sunscreen in the severe heat. For winters, a warm sweater and a jacket will suffice.

FRRO

New DelhiEast Block 8, Level-IISector-1, R K PuramPh (011) 26711443/384

Kolkata237 Acharya Jagadish Chandra Bose RoadPh (033) 22837034

MumbaiAnnexe-II, Crawford Market(near Police Commissioner’s Office)Ph (022) 22621169/0046

ChennaiShastri Bhawan26 Haddows RoadPh (033) 22837034

BangaloreTTMC A Block, 5th FloorBMTC Bus Stand BuildingKH Road, ShanthinagarPh (080) 22218195-96

BEFORE COMING TO INDIAThere are a few things you need to take care of before travelling to India.

PassportForeign travellers to India must always carry their valid passport with them.

If your passport is lost or stolen, you should immediately contact the embassy or consulate of your country of residence.

FRRO (Foreigners Regional Registration Offices) are open on weekdays, 9.30 am-1.30 pm and 2 pm-4 pm.

VisaA tourist visa is normally given for six months. The 15-day single/double entry visa is issued only to bonafide transit passengers. Tourist groups of not less than four people travelling under the auspices of a recognised travel agency may be considered for a collective tourist visa.

The tourist visa is valid for 180 days from the date of its issue and not from the date of entry into India, unless specified otherwise.

Central IndiaPRACTICAL INFORMATION

88

MoneyThe Indian currency is called the Rupee (`). It is available in denominations of 1000, 500, 100, 50, 20, 10, 5, 2 and 1. One rupee equals 100 paise. Coins in common use are those of ` 5, ` 2, ` 1.

While the 50 and 25 paise coins have become almost redundant in bigger cities, they might still be in circulation in smaller towns.

Credit cards are commonplace in cities but it is advisable to carry enough cash when visiting small towns, where ATMs and card-swiping machines are sometimes hard to come by.

COMMUNICATIONS

Post OfficesThe main post offices in large towns provide a large range of facilities like telegraph, fax and a courier service which operates under the name EMS Speed Post.

If you need to dispatch a letter or document urgently, it is advisable to send it by the government-run Speed Post.

Parcels by mail should not exceed 35 kgs. Books, documents, papers and printed material can be sent by Book Post which costs less.

All Post Offices are open from 10 am to 5.30 pm Monday to Saturday.

EmailAll metros and major cities have numerous cyber cafes that charge a nominal fee for internet access.

TelephoneThe pre-paid SIM card, offered by various local telecom service providers, is the best option for use of international mobile phones in India. Note that registration is required before travel. Valid photo identity, usually the passport, is required to get a local sim card.

ISD (international), STD (domestic long distance), and local telephone booths are available all over India. The rates for international calls are fixed, but calls within the country are charged on the basis of a pulse rate.

Time ZoneIndian Standard Time (IST) is 5½ hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time and 10½ hours ahead of US Eastern Standard Time. IST is 4½ hours behind Australian Eastern Standard Time, 3½ hours behind Japanese Standard Time and 1½ hours behind Thai Standard Time. Despite its vast geographical territory, India has just one time zone.

DRIVING LICENCEA valid International Driving Licence is necessary if you wish to drive a car or a motorcycle in India and it is advisable to get one before coming. Automobile Association of Upper India (AAUI), C-8 Qutb Institutional Area (Ph 26965397), extends help to AA members from all countries.

If you do not have an International Driving Licence and wish to drive in India, you can get a Temporary Driving Licence, provided you are carrying a valid driving licence of your country. You may still be required to give a test.

PRACTICAL INFORMATION

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HEALTHYour health during your travel in India depends on three things: precautions taken before arrival, day-to-day care, and efficiency in tackling emergencies. No particular vaccination is required for coming to India. However, visitors from designated countries in Africa, South America and from Papua New Guinea are required to bring valid Yellow Fever vaccination certificates, even if they are on transit.

Precautionary medication is the best bet against common ailments like diarrhoea, dysentery and malaria. Mosquito-borne diseases, like malaria, are common in India, particularly during the rainy season. Before visiting the parks, consult your doctor for precautionary anti-malarial medication and use mosquito repellents regularly. If you are not already vaccinated against Hepatitis B, get it done before travelling.

For healthy travel, take care of what you eat and drink. Water could be suspect; therefore, it is best to carry your own mineral water.

There are government hospitals and dispensaries in all major cities.

Tips (baksheesh)In India, there is no rule which compels you to tip anyone for any service rendered. Courtesy demands that you tip a waiter in a restaurant or hotel. The general norm is to pay atleast 10% of the billed amount. Taxi/ auto rickshaw drivers, government officials or private service providers are not expected to be tipped.

Eco-tourism

Eco-tourism, as defined by the World Trade Organisation, involves travelling to relatively undisturbed areas with natural wealth withthe specific objective of studying, admiring and enjoying the scenic beauty, flora, fauna and indigenous traditions of these places. Not only does it not disturb the environment, requiring lesser infrastructure than other kinds of tourism, it also encourages the participation of the local community leading to the economic development of the area.

Emergency

In case of emergency, have your guide/ safari conductor contact the forest wardens, officials in the park.

Else, police assistance booths arelocated at the airports, railwaystations and near major bus stopsthroughout the country.

Police 100Fire 101Ambulance 102

Lost ArticlesIn case of loss or theft, especially of vital documents like passports, an FIR (First Information Report) must be filed at the nearest police station. In case of loss of documents, the embassy or high commission concerned must immediately be informed.

Central India

ELECTRICITYElectricity supply is not quite reliable in small towns in India. Travellers are advised to carry torches (with extra batteries).

The electric current in India is 220-240 volts AC. The sockets here are of the three-round-pin variety, similar to the ones found in Europe or America, so three-pin electronic gadgets bought abroad can be used here.

PRACTICAL INFORMATION

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LIST OF NATIONAL PARKS IN INDIA

NAME OF THE PARK STATE

Anamudi Shola National Park Kerala Anshi National Park KarnatakaBalphakram National Park MeghalayaBandhavgarh National Park Madhya Pradesh Bandipur National Park KarnatakaBannerghaD a National Park KarnatakaBetla National Park Jharkhand Bhagwan Mahaveer National Park Goa Bhitarkanika National Park Odisha Buxa National Park and Tiger Reserve West Bengal Campbell Bay National Park Andaman & Nicobar IslandsChandoli National Park MaharashtraClouded Leopard National Park Tripura CorbeD National Park UD arakhand Dachigam National Park Jammu and Kashmir Darrah National Park Rajasthan Desert National Park Rajasthan Dibru-Saikhowa National Park Assam Dudhwa National Park UD ar Pradesh Eravikulam National Park Kerala Fossil National Park Madhya Pradesh Galathea Bay National Park Andaman & Nicobar IslandsGangotri National Park UD arakhand Gir National Park Gujarat Gorumara National Park West Bengal Govind National Park UD arakhand Great Himalayan National Park Himachal Pradesh Gugamal National Park Maharashtra Guindy National Park Tamil Nadu Gulf of Mannar National Park Tamil Nadu Guru Ghasi Das National Park ChhaD isgarh Hemis National Park Jammu and Kashmir Inderkilla National Park Himachal Pradesh Indira Gandhi (Annamalai) National Park Tamil Nadu Indravati National Park ChhaD isgarh Kalesar National Park Haryana Kanha National Park Madhya Pradesh Kasu Brahmananda Reddy National Park Andhra Pradesh Kangerghati National Park ChhaD isgarh Kaziranga National Park Assam Keibul Lamjao National Park Manipur Keoladeo Ghana National Park Rajasthan Khangchendzonga National Park Sikkim Khirganga National Park Himachal Pradesh Kishtwar National Park Jammu and Kashmir Kudremukh National Park KarnatakaMadhav National Park Madhya Pradesh Mahatma Gandhi Marine NP Andaman & Nicobar IslandsMahaveer Harina Vanasthali National Park Andhra Pradesh Manas National Park Assam

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Central IndiaLIST OF NATIONAL PARKS IN INDIA

NAME OF THE PARK STATE

MathikeD an Shola National Park Kerala Marine National Park Gujarat Middle BuD on Island National Park Andaman & Nicobar IslandsMouling National Park Arunachal Pradesh Mount HarrieD National Park Andaman & Nicobar IslandsMrugavani National Park Andhra Pradesh Mudumalai National Park Tamil Nadu Mukurthi National Park Tamil Nadu Murlen National Park Mizoram Nagarhole National Park Karnataka Namdapha National Park Arunachal Pradesh Nameri National Park Assam Nanda Devi National Park UD arakhand Navegaon National Park Maharashtra Neora Valley National Park West Bengal Nokrek National Park Meghalaya North BuD on Island National Park Andaman & Nicobar IslandsNtangki National Park Nagaland Pambadum Shola National Park Kerala Panna National Park Madhya Pradesh Papikonda National Park Andhra Pradesh Pench National Park Madhya Pradesh, Maharashtra Periyar National Park Kerala Phwangpui National Park Mizoram Pin Valley National Park Himachal Pradesh Rajaji National Park UD arakhand Rajbari National Park Tripura Rajiv Gandhi National Park Andhra Pradesh Rajiv Gandhi Orang National Park Assam Rani Jhansi Marine National Park Andaman & Nicobar IslandsRanthambore National Park Rajasthan Saddle Peak National Park Andaman & Nicobar IslandsSalim Ali National Park Jammu and Kashmir Sanjay National Park Madhya Pradesh Sanjay Gandhi National Park Maharashtra Sariska National Park Rajasthan Satpura National Park Madhya Pradesh Silent Valley National Park Kerala Simbalbara National Park Himachal Pradesh Simlipal National Park Odisha Singalila National Park West Bengal South BuD on Island National Park Andaman & Nicobar IslandsSri Venkateswara National Park Andhra Pradesh Sultanpur National Park Haryana Sunderban National Park West Bengal Tadoba-Andhari National Park Maharashtra Valley of Flowers National Park UD arakhand Valmiki National Park Bihar Vansda National Park Gujarat Van Vihar National Park Madhya Pradesh Velavadar National Park Gujarat

Source: h= p://moef.nic.in/downloads/public-information/protected-area-network.pdf

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95

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Photographs:Amit Mishra p 27; Ananda Banerjee pp 37-38, 57, 60;

Anupriya Roy pp 15, 58 leG ; A K Raha p 50; Arjun Haarith p 80; Bilal Bahadur p 17;

BodhisaD va Sen Roy pp 16, 32-33, 44; Chambal Safari Lodge p 28; J M Garg p 46; Joydip & Suchandra Kundu pp 4, 8A, 9, 10-11B, 12-13B, 19,

22-23B, 23A, 24-25, 58 right, 76-77; Kalyan Varma p 61A; Kamalendu Bhadra p 49; Mahadeo Sen p 43;

Mallar Sarkar pp 35, 39, 41, 48; Manoj Chhabra p 26; Mike Vickers p 36; N C Dhingra pp 6-7; Rituraj Konwar pp 54-56;

Soumya Mahapatra p 65, 67; Swati Mitra pp 11A, 14, 30-31, 51, 64

The photographs on the following pages have been used with kind permission of Kerala Tourism pp 81, 82, 83A;

Madhya Pradesh Tourism p 40; Ministry of Tourism p 18

No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmiD ed in any form or by any

means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior permission of the copyright owner.

Note

In this book the national parks and wildlife sanctuaries have been listed state-wise. Each state government has its own Tourism Department as well as Forest Department, each with their own websites. Ministry of Tourism, Government of India has its own website: www.tourism.gov.in and www.incredible india.org. You can look them up for any details.

Great care has been taken in the compilation, updation and validation of information at the time of going to press. However, please note that details like telephone numbers, opening hours, prices of tickets, safari charges and travel information may change without notice.

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