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Page 1: Wanderings by tendances #3

Wanderingsby

NUMBER 3

REAL FRANCEON YOUR DOORSTEPPAS-DE-CALAIS

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Magazine féminin du Nord-Pas-de-CalaisTendancesco

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Remembrance Trail

Remembrance Trail

Pays de la Lys Romane Tourist OfficeTel : 00 33 (0)3 21 25 26 71or [email protected]

An insight into the history of Pays de la Lys Romane (Lillers and Isbergues) during WWI & WWII.

www.tourismepaysdelalysromane.fr/bataille.php

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Print run 12 000 copies

Editor: David GuévartCommercial Director: Jérôme Dimarcq

Deputy Editor: Isabelle Hay

Pas-de-Calais Tourism:Sophie Warot-Lemaire, ChairladyDiana Hounslow, Head of Tourism

Lydie Rault, Tourism Officer

Journalist: Christine Delpierre

Design and Production:Dominique Bouvier,Christine Delpierre,Cédric Marquant,Kévin Domergue,Sébastien Théry,Jean-Luc Hamez,Benoît Mancuso

Contributors (Eurotunnel Le Shuttle):Delphine Vendrôme, Rose Joyner

Advertising:Isabelle Hay

Audrey BlanpainStéphane Basset

Emilie MineurSarah Guerlain

Virginie Verhaeghe

Printed by SIB - Boulogne-sur-Mer

Reproduction of this magazine in whole or part without the written permission of the publishers

is strictly prohibited.Copyright © Wanderings by Tendances

Contents■ PAGES 4-9 Agincourt, the true storyMedieval Historical Centre

■ PAGE 10Christophe Gilliot, director of the Agincourt Medieval Centre«A life dedicated to the Middle Ages»

■ PAGE 11 Château d’Hardelot

■ PAGES 12-18 GastronomyGood food, good wine, the good life!

■ PAGE 19Laurent Berthélémy: Chef at the restaurants« La Maison » and « La maison d’Adelia ». A taste of authenticity

■ PAGE 20-21 Christmas Markets

■ PAGE 22 -24Shopping of the beaten track

■ PAGE 25 Isabelle Rault, The dream of an avid antique hunter

■ PAGES 26-29 Events

■ PAGES 31 - 41 Exclusive offers

■ PAGE 42 Address book

partenaire de

The cooler weather is creeping up on us and the days are fast growing shorter but there is still plenty to do in Pas-de-Calais, so dress up warm and pop across...

This third edition of Wanderings commemorates two devastating events that were to scar the history of our countries. The first is the 600th anniversary of the battle of Agincourt, which took place in the village of Azincourt. The second is the centenary of the First World War; to which numerous cemeteries and museums pay tribute.

On a lighter note however, we have decided to bring you some ideas for the preparation of fast approaching end of year festivities. We take you off the beaten track to visit producers and shops that will inspire your Christmas!On behalf of all of the partners of Wanderings: Tendances&Co, Eurotunnel and Pas-de-Calais County Council, I wish you a beautiful autumn and a Merry Christmas!

Sophie Warot-Lemaire,Pas-de-Calais Tourism Chairlady

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The declaration of warOn March 20th 1413 at the age of 26, Henry V succeeded to the throne of England. As Lea-der of the nation he established his power on the bellicose segment of the population in fa-vour of the resumption of war against France. He laid claim to the newly crowned Charles VI, king of Normandy and Aquitaine, for the heri-tage of William the Conqueror and the Plan-tagenets, which represented half of the King-dom of France. The diplomatic breakdown took place in summer 1415. The truce between France and England, in force since 1388, was broken and war was declared.

The siege of HarfleurOn august 13th 1415, the English army reached Normandy with approximately 11700 soliders. Henry V immediately decided to take siege of Harfleur.After one month of staunch battle, on Sep-tember 18th 1415 the city fell into the hands of the English. With an army of just 9000 men, Henry could no longer seek to conquer Nor-mandy. The French princes who had been di-vided since the 1407 Armagnac – Burgundian war were gathering together to drive out the English invader.

The withdrawl to CalaisWeakened by dysentery, the English army left Harfleur in order to take the coastal route for Calais on October 7th 1415. The 390 km walk was to last 22 days. The forced withdrawal from the French kingdom became a real or-deal. The English army came under attack daily from the French forces. On October 19th, they crossed the Somme river at Voyennes. Fearing an unexpected meeting with the French army, Henry sent scouts who disco-vered the French army in order of battle at Agincourt. Thus the army of Charles VI was to succeed in preventing the English withdrawal.

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In the land of 7 Valleys, in the heart of a vast meadow, the Agincourt Medieval Historical Centre offers a journey through time to the Middle Ages. To the time of the Battle of Agincourt, which would change the course of French history. To find out more about the Hundred Years War, the warring sides and the conflicts, Agincourt Historical Centre retells all the history of the event in great detail.

What about the Hundred Years War?Let’s go back 600 years. We were in the midst of civil war, one that raged in a nation that was still not united and led by King Charles VI, who had taken leave of his senses. The country was partly occupied by the English and this war had, for decades, divided the Dukes of Armagnac and Burgundy, both laying claim to the French crown…

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Henry V realised that he was trapped. After a short night, the two armies woke at dawn. It was obvious that the French far outnumbe-red the English. Thanks to current research it is now possible to offer the realistic figures of 13000 French to 9000 English.

The battleAt around 10 am, Henry decided to begin. In order of battle, the 7000 English bowmen shot a first volley of arrows. In response to this provocation and without order from their commanders, the French heavy ca-valry moved into battle. The 1200 cavaliers failed their breakthrough, massacred by the arrows or impaled on the wooden piles set up by their adversary. The French vanguard nevertheless succeeded in reaching English positions.

The shock was extremely violent and pushed the English 10 meters behind their lines. Weighed down by their numbers, the large army of French soldiers became trapped by the Agincourt and Tramecourt woods. The English seized the opportunity to leave their longbows and take to their swords, axes, mallets and pole weapons. It was a slaugh-ter. In less than one hour the French van-guard was defeated.Seeing the battle nearly won, the English sol-diers left their entrenchment and captured approximately 100 soldiers in the Trame-court woods.

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At around 3pm the battlefield was in status quo. Suddenly, English soldiers heard men crying behind their lines. They found 600 armed far-mers, led by Ysembar of Agincourt, Rifflart de Palmasse and Robinet de Bournonville. Thinking he was under attack from behind, Henry V ordered all the prisoners, excepting the great Lords, to be killed.Now Henry was once again ready to face the French but the latter preferred to retreat, aban-doning bodies, injured soldiers and weapons. It was the end of the afternoon, night was falling and Henry V had won the battle.

The hour of reckoningIt is difficult to know exactly how many soldiers

were killed at the battle of Agincourt, but accor-ding to chroniclers’ sources, we think that 1000 English soldiers lost their lives. Amongst them, the Duke of York and Henry’s uncle the Count of Suffolk. Traditionally, the same sources sug-gest the French figures to be between 6000 and 6500 men, the figure of 4000 now seems more likely. Twelve princes of royal blood and dozens of royal officers were killed or captured in Agin-court. Many family lines came to an end during the massacre.

This meant an overall success for the English. Henry V returned to England leaving France in bloody conflict. Armagnancs on one side and Burgundians on the other had always fought

over the power that Charles VI had assumed. The Battle of Agincourt also marked a rupture in the military landscape. The inefficiency of the cavalry threw medieval battle techniques into doubt. Adding to the defeats of Crécy and Poitiers, Agincourt signalled the death of feu-dal chivalry. Following an interval of 35 years, France was once again to be plunged into a Hundred Years War that would undermine Royal power.After Agincourt, Charles VI, who had descended into madness, named the son of the King of England as successor to the French crown. Af-ter the death of Charles VI, the English would therefore control half of France. They lay siege to Orleans in an attempt to control the entire country. With the help of Joan of Arc, Charles

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VII (son of Charles VI) began to drive back the English. He was crowned in Reims in 1429. Nevertheless, Joan was stranded outside Pa-ris and was captured. The English put her on trial and condemned her to death in Rouen. She was burned at the stake in 1431. The En-glish were then expelled and the French op-ponents of the King were defeated in 1453 at the Battle of Castillon.

Agincourt today:A strong symbolof the Franco-British bondIn the county of Pas-de-Calais there is great evidence of the interaction between our two

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Temporary exhibitionsAgincourt and the gendarmesOn October 25 1415, during the battle of Agincourt, Gallois de Fougières, the provost marshal, fell in the field of honour. He is considered to he the “father” of the mo-dern day gendarmes and therefore, the very first gendarme to have died in battle. Nowadays, Gallois de Fougières is an “icon” of sorts to the Gendarmerie Nationale, indeed a promotion and a barracks bear his name.The various temporary exhibitions planned for this season will touch upon the espe-cially strong links between Agincourt and the Gendarmerie Française army corps.

From 19 October to the end of December:“Exhibition of the origins of the Gendarmerie”

November 5:“Around Agincourt: society faced with war - in France, England and the Burgundian territory (c. 1370-c. 1420)

MEDIEVAL HISTORICAL CENTRE24, rue Charles VI, 62310 AGINCOURT - T: 00 33 (0)321472753www.azincourt1415.fr - [email protected] GPS coordinates: N50.4621819 E2.12847

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nations who have been friends/enemies since time began. Agincourt is a symbol of this. A site of Engli-sh victory and French defeat…As we go beyond the eternal quarrels amongst his-torians on the subject of statistics and tactical er-rors committed by both sides, depending on who you speak to, the two nations have nevertheless managed to put past conflicts behind them and to commemorate the men who died here.The fraternity demonstrated in 1915 is a fine exa-mple of this. In the heart of a global conflict, the two armies of France and Great Britain united against a common enemy, came together to commemorate the Battle of Agincourt.

The AgincourtMedieval Historical CentreImmersed in the battle and daily lifein the Middle AgesIf the Hundred Years War, which includes so many historic dates and personalities, appears difficult to understand, a visit to the Agincourt Medieval Centre will help you better comprehend this defining epi-sode of history. The site is located in the very place where the bloody battle unfolded and it has not changed very much at all!

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This year, the 600th anniversary of the Battle of Agincourt will be com-memorated. In this hands-on exhibition you are invited to relive his-tory. Become a Knight! Take up swords, armour, daggers and pikes, touch, handle and sharpen them. Feel for yourself how difficult it was to use these weapons. You can also test out how formidably effective they were.

A three-stage visitThree modern spaces are waiting to be explored. Educational panels in the first stage unveil what the French and English camps looked like on the eve of the battle. The camps come to life as you go, with videos and mannequins representing the commanders on both sides who explain what their strategies will be.Now continue to the projection room that presents an entertaining slide show, a realistic sound track and a reconstruction of the battle itself. Henry V is present as a spectator to the whole scene, offering his opinion at the end of the battle.To round off the visit, a giant scale model shows the first moment of the battle with almost 3000 figurines positioned in full order of battle.

The archaeological hallBut the experience doesn’t end there, because the Battle of Agincourt also marks the end of an era; the Middle Ages and its feudal system.In order to help you better understand this period, the archaeological hall and its multitude of objects (over 400 pieces are on show), shows how people lived from day to day.

Agincourt, the real story2015 marks the 600th anniversary of the Battle of Agincourt. Today, thanks to a project including brand new scenography and the deve-lopment of archaeological programmes, the future of Agincourt in-cludes re-establishing the most realistic, and indeed the fairest, vi-sion possible of this chapter of the Hundred Years War.

Extending the archaeological digs taking place around the site, in-tends to provide a more precise estimate of the number who died, locating the tombs and defining the exact number of Knights and sol-diers engaged in this battle. It also aims to calculate the impact of this war and, more precisely, of this battle on the civilian population.

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You could say that it was a lucky coincidence when one day his fa-ther took a wrong turn because of the foggy weather and the family ended up at the historic site of Agincourt. In fact, it is more likely to suspect that the hand of des-tiny had intervened. « At the time, explains Christophe Gilliot, there was just a small museum dedicated to the Battle of Agincourt. We took advan-tage of this unexpected opportunity and went inside to visit... » Christophe was then 7 years old. He was living in Aix-en-Ergny, 20 minutes away from a major historic site, one to which his future would become inextricably linked. « After this discovery, every Saturday morning when my mother went to market, I would head for the museum… » Because of this all-consuming passion for the Middle Ages, Christophe Gilliot naturally began studying medieval history at the University of Ar-tois, specialising in the warfare and wea-

ponry of the Middle Ages. « This helped me to feel the reality of the battles. » he explains. All his research inevitably led him to the Battle of Agincourt and he sub-sequently started to look into historical reconstructions and he specialised in the study of the historical heritage society of the Gendarmerie, whose history is closely connected with Agincourt.

From a little museum to the Medieval Historical CentreIn the early 2000’s, the Museum of Agin-court once more entered his life when he was offered a job, providing maternity co-ver for a member of staff. He accepted, but just couldn’t help getting more involved, correcting any little mistakes he found in the content provided for the historical visit. He also established an exhibition on the theme of the Middle Ages, based on the site’s archaeological remains. His contract was extended and in 2011 he took on the role of director of what had then become the Agincourt Medieval Centre.Ever since, this gentleman has continued

with one foot in the future and the other

anchored firmly in the Middle Ages, and

he hasn’t stopped investigating the traces

of history, wherever they may be found.

Christophe Gilliot is also the author of

several works. Some, of course, about

Agincourt, but also one on Joan of Arc, co-

written with his deputy, Jocelyn Gosselin.

He has also published a work on the wea-

ponry and armour of the V to XV centuries,

which has sold more than 6,000 copies.

Finally, he is a regular contributor to the

American review « Medieval Warfare »,

which focuses on the art of war.

The wheel has almost turned full circle, but it has to be said that 600 years later, there is still so much to say about the Battle of Agincourt and Christophe Gilliot has still not finished exploring the subject that has defined his life.

Christophe Gilliot,director of the Agincourt Medieval Centre

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Château d’Hardelot

The Château d’Hardelot appears to be a minia-ture English castle. Delve a little into its story and you will discover that is pretty much exactly what it is!

The secrets of Franco-British connections are revealed within. Known fondly as the Entente Cordiale cultural centre, this XIXth century manor house has been returned to its Victorian glory by the Council for Pas-de-Calais. From the dining room to the smoking room, the library to the private apartments and along the pathways and groves of the Tudor gardens, Franco-British mo-narchs mingle in every space. William the Conque-

ror, Henry the VIII, Napoleon Bonaparte, Queen Victoria and Queen Elisabeth II frequent the extra-ordinary owners of the Château : Henry Guy, Sir John Hare, Sir John Robinson Whitley and the mysterious Abbé Bouly, in an amusing display of national treasures.

2016 will see the opening of an Elizabethan theatre designed by architect Andrew Todd. Approved by Her Majesty the Queen in June 2014 during her state visit to Paris, this 400 seat modern ‘Globe’ will host a high quality pro-gramme of artistic events throughout the year.

www.chateau-hardelot.fr

The Hardelot coat of arms was esta-blished by the College of Heralds in London, at the request of Sir John Robinson Whitley, founder of the re-sort of Hardelot.

In the centre of the shield lies an an-cient galley; fully rigged and sailing across the waves, it is surmounted by a representation of the crown of Charlemagne. To the right of this crown is a half rose and half pome-granate, the emblems of King Henry VIII. To the left a salamander midst flames, the emblem of King Fran-çois 1er. Above is a Roman chariot with driver and two horses. Behind the shield, a tricolour flag and Union Jack. Below is the motto : “Gaudium adfero” – “I bring Joy”.

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Make the most of the fresh fish available at our seaside towns.

Calais, Boulogne, Etaples…As you follow the coast you will easily find someone to supply you with fresh fish.

If you visit the fishermen’s stalls you will be able can en-joy the catch of the day. It’s difficult to find fresher fish! On these stalls, produce is seasonal. In October, scallops are the order of the day. In November, it’s the arrival of the herring…

These stalls also have the advantage of offering you the sage advice of their proprietors. They will happily advise you on selecting fish and cooking it. Whether it is cod, sole or even crab, their household recipes will ensure that you enjoy the flavour of the products that these pro-fessionals have lovingly prepared for you. In Boulogne, the market is not very extensive but a mul-titude of freshly caught fish whets the appetites of pas-sers-by. Here there is little fuss and lots of good produce! The carefully selected fish, chosen by local producers, come straight off the local boats, without passing through a middle man. Otherwise, why not get up early and pay a visit to the port of Etaples, where on the stalls you will find the catch from small fishing boats, ideal for lunch. The catch from the nightly fishing runs is landed early in the morning at Bou-logne but can also be found on the quayside of Etaples. You can enjoy the superb view of the port whilst you shop.In Calais, in the maritime Courgain quarter, the Paradis Basin is home to the fishing fleet which ties up all along its quayside and to the famous « Aubettes du Minck » booths. Opposite the fish market you can find restaurants and cafés that are typical of the Minck, where you can sample the fresh fish that have come straight from the stalls.

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The Pas-de-Calais, a region that offers a wide diversity of wholesome products to enjoy. Often of excellent quality, these provide the basis for countless specialities of the terroir. The artisans and small businesses, renowned for their savoir-faire, contribute to maintaining and developing this regional treasure. As you make your journey through the county, don’t hesitate to push open the doors of these producers, who are often to be found along quiet country lanes.

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The Feast of the herring in Etaples

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Beer is a regional heritage!Across this region, over twenty breweries create their own beers using artisanal methods. Lager, amber, stout or white, high or low-fermentation, the special beers of the Pas de Calais are characterised by their pronounced flavour and high alco-hol content (often between 6° and 8°). Twice a year, tradition dictates that each brewery should offer two seasonal beers in addition to their usual production - Christmas Beer and March Beer (also referred to as Springtime Beer)-, a tradition with historic origins.

The Vallée de l’Aa Brewery: « La Sournoise » is worthy of the name!In the Vallée de l’Aa brewery, you can discover the «La Sournoise», (meaning crafty), a beer that is easily identifiable thanks to the cat that features on a label that is printed in every colour imaginable. It is a yeasty beer, slightly cloudy, with a subtle bitterness and powerful aromas. It is brewed as a light lager beer, and in other generous varieties: Amber and Triple. Drink with moderation, Sournoise blond is 6% alcohol, the amber 7.5%, the triple 8%...Try Sournoise Blanche too. A beer based on malt and wheat, with fruitier accents, ideal as an aperitif. You can also order a personalised beer (ingredients, volume, and label by request).

Brasserie de la Haute Vallée de l’Aa : 78 Rue Principale - 62560 Merck-Saint-Liévin T: 00 33 (0)6 26 50 07 74 - [email protected]

« La Kipper », and would you like another beer with your salmon…?A tradition that comes to us straight from Northern Europe! In fact, it is beer that sailors traditionally drank to accompany smoked fish dishes and this marriage between beer and smoked fish borders on the sublime. To accompany the tender flesh of your smoked fish, try a « Kipper », a beer that is brewed in the region by artisan brewer Christophe Noyon. From the very first sip, all your senses are aroused. Your palate will be enchanted by the masterful bitterness of this beer, perfect for the smoky-salty taste of the smoked fish. A real delight!

Brasserie Noyon: 1413 Route d’Ausques - 62179 Tardinghen T: 00 33 (0)3 21 10 56 53 - Opening hours: 10:00 - 12:30, 13:30 - 17:00

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JC DavidFault free quality!In Boulogne, enter into Capécure, this microcosm of fishing, and enjoy a stop off at the « JC David » smokehouse to discover their smoked fish. You won’t regret it! Since 1973, the success of the establishment and the quality of its products has rested on the savoir-faire and professionalism of its staff. Ancestral techniques passed on by Madame David to her son Jean-Claude, the founder of this small business. The company supplies a prestigious network of Parisian brasseries and traditional fi-shmongers. If you pop into their shop you can also sample the very best smoked fish. It can be addictive.

JC David 15 rue Georges Honoré62200 Boulogne-sur-Mer T: 00 33 (0)3 21 87 38 31Open from Monday to Thursday, 14.00 to 17.00(you can also find some of their products in Auchan and Carrefour)

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« La Gosse » LemonadeThe production of lemonade is closely lin-ked with the history of the breweries, as it served to use up the excess carbonic gas that was generated by the fermentation of the beer. «La Gosse» in Liévin is home to one of the last French lemonades produced by artisanal methods. In Hardinghen during the 1930’s, natural lemonade with the fla-vour of lemon and orange was perfected, which still exists today. Later on, 15 other varieties were created. A colourful and re-fined range of beverages, in old fashioned glass bottles, decorated with a pretty label that is retro and original. Today you can discover lemonades flavoured with poppy, rose, violet or even green banana… De-lightful!Limonades et sirops La Gosse , Rue François Jacob 62800 LiévinT: 00 33 (0)3 21 72 36 73 www.lagosse.fr

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Discover the «Charbonnay d’Haillicourt», wine from the shale heaps of Pas-de-CalaisThis is no more and no less than the very first wine produced from vines planted on the side of a shale heap. Two winegrowers from the region, Henri Jammet and Olivier Pucek, had the idea of replanting 2000 chardonnay vines, a variety that originates in Burgundy, on the south facing slope of mining shaleheap 2B in Haillicourt. The first cuvee was bottled in November 2014. The result was a wine that is highly perfumed and vibrant, two of the main characteristics of Charbonnay, the only « of its kind » produced in France.To find out more about Charbonnay: LES VINS AUDACIEUX, 1026 Rue Emile Zola - 62940 Haillicourt

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The green of the land

The Pas-de-Calais is also well-known as a great mar-ket gardening region. Among other things, producers

apply themselves to bringing back into fashion some for-gotten vegetables, specialities of the region that can hold their own thanks to their flavour and their many culinary uses.

Capucin’s Beard, a divine salad.A relative of the endive, this provides a seductive alter-native to watercress and lamb’s lettuce. The leaves are very tender, slightly more bitter than endive. Genuine ca-puchin’s beard is cultivated 12m below the surface, in the famous « Catiche » caves. There they develop elongated lobed leaves (40cm), which are smooth, tender, yellow and white in colour and deliciously bitter. It can be eaten raw or cooked, dressed with a drizzle of lemon vinegar or balsamic that tempers the bitterness, and it is a marvel-lous accompaniment to fish, salmon in particular. Root chicory, the best of the endiveIn antiquity, root chicory was employed for its medicinal properties. It is known as a purifying, diuretic, tonic and digestive plant. Its light bitterness leaves nobody indiffe-rent! Eaten as a vegetable thanks to its slight bitterness and extremely tender texture, it has an unparalleled fla-vour. Currently, between Dunkerque and Calais, it can be sourced from a whole host of producers.Producers Sophie Flahaut . La cueillette de Recques-sur-Hem, rue du Plouy 62890 Recques-sur-Hem T: 00 33 (0)6 32 40 86 88Eric Senicourt. Les pépinières d’Offekerque, 39, rue de la gare - 62370 Offekerque T: 00 33 ( 0)3 21 36 42 77 eric-senicourt.e-monsite.com©

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The endive is a funny little vegetableThis little rascal has to grow in total darkness, the only way to ensure that its leaves are pale and its fibres are tender. A dietary ve-getable par excellence, with 15 calories per 100g, « everything is good to eat and nothing is thrown away… » as Brassens once said. The endive goes very well with citrus, with cheeses or with duck breast… It can also go very nicely with your aperitif: pull off the leaves and you will be left with some magni-ficent little trays, ready to hold your Maroilles cheese, avocado puree, cucumber tartare or even sun-dried tomato tapenade…In the Audomarois marsh, you can find endives at:Cressonnière de Tilques - 8, rue Henneboque

62500 Tilques T: 00 33 (0)3 21 12 68 87

Beet the Winter blues. Becoming popular in the middle of the XIX Century, beetroot can be enjoyed in salads, gratinéed or even in cold soups. The range of vitamins and minerals it provides can contribute greatly to our daily nutritional re-quirements. Beetroot has a reputation for being very sweet. In reality, its carbohydrate content is only around 7.5%, providing 42 kcal per 100g. To find or buy these products, please go to www.monproducteur.fr and www.ouacheterlocal.fr Only in French but easy to use.

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Michel Theret, founder of the Confraternity of the Endive and the Cauliflower. This former restaurateur, passio-

nate about creating dishes based on the products of our local area, has perfected his art on the basis of a simple motto: «do everything for love, by love and with love». In 2004, he founded the Brothe-rhood of the Endive and the Cauliflower and for more than twenty years that he has been vaunting the benefits of this ve-getable, Michel Théret has developed no less than 200 different ways of serving a vegetable that is commonly known in the region as « le chicon »

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A recipe for Beetroot veloutéIngredients / to serve 4500g of cooked beetroot 2 pots of cream cheese (such as Fjord) 1 clove of garlic, 1 onion 1 tablespoon of balsamic vinegar ½ cucumber, a few sprigs of chivesA dash of tabasco (optional), salt, pepper 4 slices of smoked streaky bacon (optional)

Preparing Beetroot Gazpacho1 Peel and deseed the cucumber. Cut into large chunks, along with the peeled beetroot, onion and garlic. Mix together. 2 Add the cream cheese and the vinegar. Season, and then add a few drops of Tabasco. Adjust the seasoning if needed and place in the refrigerator for at least 30min.

3 Roast the smoked streaky bacon on a tray lined with grea-seproof paper for 15 minutes at 200°C until it is well coloured, then leave to cool. Chop roughly in order to create crumbs. Serve the gazpacho very chilled, sprinkling with chopped chives and the crunchy crumbs of smoked streaky bacon.

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Here, the fruit has sunshine in its heart

If our vegetables are always in the spotlight, it doesn’t mean we put our fruit in the shade.

Rediscover the « Grosse Louise », an eating pear with white flesh that is juicy and sweet, or the Sainte Catherine plum with its firm, yellow flesh, excellent for cooking with. Growers of apples, like the «GAEC de la Petite Beussingue», can offer you over ten different varieties, as well as pears or plums that you can pick yourself in leafy settings not far from Calais or Boulogne-sur-Mer. Pick-your-own is available from mid-Au-gust to early November, from Wednesday to Sunday from 10h until 18h30.Verger de la Beussingue: 112 Route de Calais,62231 Peuplingues - T: 00 33 (0)3 21 85 27 28www.vergerdelabeussingue.com

The Pas-de-Calais; the other cheese region…

Have you heard of the « Fleur d’Audresselles », the « Ecume de Wimereux », the « Sablé de Wissant »,

the 62, the « Cœur d’Arras », the « Vieux Boulogne » (named smelliest cheese in 2004)

There are so many original products that are associated to this area and add to its prestigious image. Here, the repu-tations of the cheeses and the artisan cheesemakers are

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In the Pas-de-Calais, the Brotherhoods fight for great flavourThe Brotherhood of the Turkey Licques poultry (turkeys, fattened hens, ca-pons, chickens) is a type of poultry that boasts firm meat and fine skin, raised in the open air using cereal based feed only. This brand was awarded the Label Rouge in 1979. Every year, during the third weekend of December, the Turkey Festival in Licques takes place. Clas-sified as one of the one hundred best festivals in France, festivities begin on Saturday with a market of regional produce and a poultry competition. Two hundred growers gather to present their finest specimens: capons that have been hand plucked and trussed, worthy of the very finest dinner tables…In the evening, under the giant marquee, you can sample some turkey in a festive atmos-phere. On Sunday morning, the festival conti-

nues with a colourful pa-rade. The famous Licquoise Stew is sampled by all, sim-mered in a cauldron that would be worthy of Obelix! Then, at the end of the mor-ning, the highlight of the show: the turkeys join the cortege and parade joyfully through the town!The Licques Turkey Festival, December 2015 Contact: Licques Volailles on 00 33 (0)3 21 35 80 03

Brotherhood of the Cauliflower in Saint-OmerThe Brotherhood of the Cauliflower from Saint-Omer are the dynamic ambassadors of a product that is emblematic of the Audoma-rois marshlands: summer cauliflower. This is a variety that has a lighter flavour than its Breton cousin. Cauliflower enthusiasts are present at countless events throughout the

region, with the aim of promoting and increa-sing people’s affection for this product of our terroir. Naturally, they have become asso-ciated with the creation and launch of a range of soups based on the vegetables of the Audo-marois area (cauliflower, Tilques carrots, ce-lery, endive, leeks) created by the Légumerie de la Côte d’Opale.Légumerie de la Côte d’Opale : 4 Route de Blendecques - 62219 Longuenesse T: 00 33 (0)3 21 88 21 50

Gastronomy W A N D E R I N G S B Y T E N D A N C E S & C O

primarily earned by word of mouth. It is true that all you have to do is have a taste and you will be hooked, because you are sure to find one that will make your taste buds sing… Of course, these cheeses really should be enjoyed with a local beer! To round off our tour of the most famous cheeses of the Pas-de-Calais, we shouldn’t forget the abbey cheeses: Troisvaux or the Trappiste de Belval, the Galette de Frencq and the soft Crémet from Cap Blanc-Nez…

The Fromagerie Sainte-Godeleine in Wierre-EffroyAntoine and Joachim Bernard transform the still warm raw milk, collected every mor-ning and evening, from 110 cows at two vil-lage farms. These artists turn this milk into around ten speciality cheese products and a range of about a dozen cheeses whose appel-

lations, shapes and flavours are the shining jewels of the Pas-de-Calais terroir.Fromagerie Sainte-Godeleine rue du Vert - 62720 Wierre EffroyT: 00 33 (0)3 21 87 00 97

The Ferme Fromagère de la Slack In the Boulonnais region, on the banks of the River Slack, Olivier Mionnet raises 45 dairy cows of the Montbéliardes breed, and Lucile transforms their milk into some ex-cellent dairy products. Their specialities are matured cheeses, like Flocon de Lait, Mont Cornet, Rouge Fort and the Petit Coeur de Rety, as well as butter, fromage frais, natural and fruity yoghurts, cream desserts, cheese-cakes...La ferme fromagère de la Slack 9 rue Calmette - 62720 Rety T: 00 33 (0)3 21 33 70 31- [email protected]

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Everything stemmed from an urgent desire to change his life. And to follow in his father’s footsteps as well. A banker turned antiquarian, his father had performed a complete about-face and opened a res-taurant in a small village in the Morvan. His son, Laurent Berthélémy, quite natu-rally became a « jack of all trades », just like his father. But a perfectionist also. A talented screen-printer, exhausted by a hectic lifestyle, he suddenly decided to give in to his passion: cookery. He then opened his first restaurant in Fléchin, known as « La Maison », simply because it was set up on the ground floor of his family home. The artist reveals himselfLaurent Berthélémy considers himself to be somewhat of a « fraud », in an industry in which he has received no formal trai-ning and is unaware of the rules. But that hasn’t stopped him from throwing himself into it, with a cuisine that is in-

tuitive and creative, fluctuating between the traditions of the terroir and flavours from further afield. This gentleman, who is always viewed as an artisan in all his different trades, happily defines his style of cuisine as « countryside gastronomy ». The truth is that he puts seasonal ingre-dients and vegetables in particular back where they deserve to be, buying from a local producer who farms organically. His wife, Murielle, is a former interior desi-gner who has become his partner. She adds the final touches that create a warm ambiance, blending the spirit of the flea-markets with a family feel. A family affairFlushed with his initial success, Laurent Berthélémy opened a second restaurant, “La maison d’Adélia”, in Saint-Omer on the ground floor of his grandmother’s house. His mother, who now owns the house, still lives there in fact! There is a panel on the front door that reassures visitors, saying « You’re in the right

place! ». They have kept the same spirit as in Fléchin. Once inside the restaurant, you will find the family furniture and objects collected by his father. Here he rediscovers the memories and the aro-mas of his grandmother’s cooking. A spirit in perpetual motion. In his spare time, Laurent Berthélémy avidly takes part in the theatre, « I commit fully to this, because I am demanding in everything I do » he says. The wild natu-ral landscape of the Grand Site des Caps is a source of inspiration, both for writing plays and for his cooking. He finds more inspiration still in the opal blue of the beach of Merlimont, especially on rainy days. On land, he also enjoys the mystical and mysterious nature of the countryside and the marshes.

Every day is a challenge, brin-ging new ideas that must be brought to life. For Laurent Ber-thelemy, this is the spice of life.

Laurent Berthélémy: Chef at the restaurants« La Maison » and « La maison d’Adelia »

A taste of authenticity

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Christmas time

Licques TurkeyIn the XVIIth century, monks on a pilgrimage to the abbey brought the first turkeys to the little village of Licques which was then no more than a mere chicken farm. The moderate climate suited the creatures so well that the production spread throughout the valley and their reputation soon crossed the Channel. The English would come to buy their Christmas Turkeys at the market which took place on the two Sundays before the feast. ‘Guénél’ parades Guénels are lanterns which the children make from sugar beets in the same way as halloween lanterns are carved out of pumpkins. The beets are decorated and paraded through the streets singing a little song in patois. Various towns on the Opal Coast organise Guénel competitions for the children, usually on the week-end before Christmas.

St Nicolas paradesSaint Nicolas parades through the streets with its donkey throwing sweets to the children while Le Père Fouettard (Father Whip) kidnaps the kids who haven’t been so good.The actual date is December 6th but the parade may take place on the nearest week-end so it’s a good idea to check events diaries from tourist offices.

Christmas specialitiesLe St Nicolas A large macaroon in the shape of St Nicolas, iced in red and white. This appears in the baker’s shops from the end of November to cele-brate the feast of Saint Nicolas on December the 6th. Le CraquelinA twisted figure of 8 shaped pastry which is fabulous dunked in hot

chocolate (with a touch of kirsch for adults only!).Found in ‘Patisseries’ in the Boulogne region, craquelins are usually eaten warm for breakfast or afternoon tea.

Le pudding de NoëlA sort of plum pudding found in Calais and Boulogne... now where could that idea come from? La Galette des RoisIt looks like a thick flaky pastry pancake and it always comes with a crown. On the first Sunday after new year’s day the French celebrate Epiphany with a cake which hides a bean. Whomsoever finds the bean in his or her slice, becomes King or Queen for the day and chooses their match to reign with them! No longer a bean but a small porcelain or metal figure hides within the apple or almond filling.

Christmas time traditions in Pas-de-Calais

What do the French eatfor Christmas ?The French most frequently celebrate Christmas on the evening of the 24th of December when ‘Père Noël’ leaves gifts for the good children in shoes beneath the tree. After a champagne aperitif with nibbles, the serious task of feasting commences. There are usually several (sometimes as many as four!) starters such as ‘boudin blanc’, a white sausage made with pork and truffles and served warm, gently browned in a pan of melted butter. Seafood platter, oysters, smoked salmon, scallops, or foie gras ser-ved with warm toast and chilled white sauternes are other favourite ‘entrées’. Amazingly this comes before the guests tuck into the big bird ! Turkey, potatoes and veg are a classic in France too. Cheese is served before dessert. Dessert is a sweet Christmas log made of chocolate, ice-cream, fruits. Obviously a little Calvados or Cognac rounds this off beautifully, and if you want to try a local digestif, have a go for Genièvre de Houlle. Time for bed and a sleep until noon when a hearty lunch of leftovers awaits!

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Béthune Christmas Market

Licques Turkeys Pudding St Nicolas Genièvre de Houlle

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In Arras27th November to 30th DecemberChristmas MarketTaking up its winter quarters in the magnificent setting of the Grand’Place, the Arras Christmas Market has become over the years one of the biggest in Northern France. With almost 100 exhibitors, visitors are presented with the equivalent of a new pedestrian district given over entirely to preparations for the seasonal festivities. Wooden huts, skating rink, carrousel, musical events and workshops, mouthwatering smells: the Christmas village focuses on creating a festive atmosphere in anticipation of the Christmas season. Monday to Friday: 12.00 to 7.30pm Saturday: 10.00am to 9.00pm – Sunday: 10.00am to 7.30 pm- 24th December: 12.00 to 5.00pm – 25th December: closedInformation: Tourist OfficeT: 00 33 (0)3 21 51 26 95 www.explorearras.com

In Le Touquet27th NovemberLaunch of the illuminationsAt 17:30 in the gardens of the Palais des Congrès

14th to 28th December Christmas Jazz Festival12th to 13th DecemberChristmas Market in le TouquetAt the Market hallSaturday 18.00 to 22.00 Sunday 9.00 to 18.00Information : Tourist Office T: 00 33 (0)3 21 06 72 00 www.letouquet.com

In Béthune28th November to 31st DecemberwBéthune Christmas MarketBéthune Christmas market is located in the Town Square, by the Belfry Tower. People can enjoy the open-air skating rink, horse-drawn carriage rides, child-ren’s workshops, and a host of entertain-ment. There’s something for everyone at the Christmas Town, from the delicious smell of sausages cooking, to roast chestnut sandwiches from Alsace to the traditional waffles of the North. Information: Tourist OfficeT: 00 33 (0)3 21 52 50 00 www.tourisme-bethune-bruay.fr

In Le Portel11th to 24th DecemberChristmas VillageInformation: Tourist OfficeT: 00 33 (0)3 21 31 45 93www.ot-leportel-plage.com

In Hardelot19th & 20th DecemberChristmas MarketIn the town centerSaturday: 10.00 am to 8.00 pmAt 4.00pm, arrival of Santa Claus.Sunday: 10.am to 6.00 pmInformation: Tourist OfficeT: 00 33 (0)3 21 83 51 02 www.hardelot-tourisme.com

23th November to 3rd JanuaryVictorian Christmas

Discover Christmas traditions on both sides of the Channel in the magical setting of Château d’Hardelot: the history of greeting cards, Christmas gastronomy, who’s Santa Claus…Guided visits, Christmas Tales.Château de l’Entente cordiale T: 00 33 (0)3 21 21 73 65 www.chateau-hardelot.fr

In Boulogne-sur-Mer5th DecemberSaint Nicolas’ Parade Parade starts at 17.00, rue Nationale.Fireworks starts at 19:00 Quai Gambetta

19th to 20th DecemberChristmas MarketIn the Old TownInformation: Tourist Office T: 00 33 (0)3 21 10 88 10www.tourisme-boulognesurmer.com

In Etaples-sur-Mer5th DecemberSaint Nicolas’ Parade Place du Général de GaulleInformation: Tourist OfficeT: 00 33 (0) 3 21 89 62 56www.etaples-tourisme.com

In Calais5th&6th DecemberChristmas MarketPlace du Soldat InconnuInformation: Tourist OfficeT: 00 33 (0)3 21 96 62 40www.calais-cotedopale.com

Christmas markets

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Arras skating rink

Arras Christmas Market

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In Arques, the «Galets du Nord» perfume their region. How would you like to lather yourself with potatoes, or chicory or even hops? Now you can with « Les Galets du Nord ». Their creator, Delphine Honoré, works alone in her laboratory to manufacture artisan soap using products from the region. Her soaps are made using the cold saponifica-tion method, following recipes that have been laboratory tested and using ingredients that are guaranteed to be 100% natural. The base for her soap is made of 60% olive oil, mixed with coconut and macadamia nut oils. The liquid that is obtained in this way is then poured into a long 3kg mould. You have to wait for five weeks for the soap to be ready, and it is then cut by hand. Original and unusual fragrancesPotato soap is the star product. It looks just like a potato and is beautifully presented in its own jute sack. You can clearly smell the distinct scent of potato. For those with dry skin, this soap provides some interesting bene-fits, as the starch leaves a protective film across the body.The range of soaps: The Nature, The Potato, The Chicory, The Miner, The Hop, The Linseed Flower, The Sea Buckthorn, The Sand and The BarberTo find shops that sell these products or to order on-line: www. lesgaletsdunord.com

In Selles, the boutique « Maison & Compagnie » invites you into its cosy and bucolic world Hidden away at the end of a country lane in Selles (in the Desvroise re-gion), the home decor boutique « Maison & Compagnie » is a small brand that certainly provides some surprises for those who venture out for a visit. Its creator, Isabelle Rault, has known how to make the most of her isolated location and of its picturesque scenery, creating a warm and wel-coming spot. In the style of a chic flea market, here you can discover home decor accessories, both old and new. Old, because Isabelle Rault loves to go antiquing, restoring old furniture and adding cosy accessories that bring harmony to these decorative items. On her Facebook page she re-gularly posts photos of objects that are on sale. This allows shoppers to know exactly what is in the shop, and this curiosity draws them directly to her. Maison & Compagnie also provides a mail order service. Don’t hesi-tate to stop by and have a look. You will be pleasantly surprised.Maison & Compagnie, 62 Rue Renard62240 SellesT: 00 33 (0)6 45 75 05 72. Open from Thursday to Sunday, from 14.00 to 19.00, including public holidays.

In Calais, do you fancy a cup of tea?If you feel like treating yourself to a personalised box of tea, this is the place to go. This Calais workshop provides a range of over 100 different boxes, illustrated by well-known artists and updated every year. These metallic boxes are covered with an illustration created using artisanal methods, protected with a scratch-proof film and printed at high tempera-

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Originality can be found everywhere throughout the department, and in a variety of different forms. For example, did you know that the small town of Arques shares a few similarities with the city of Marseille, that an isolated little shop in the heart of the countryside can sparkle with a thousand lights as if in a fairy-tale or that a simple biscuit can transport you back to your childhood…?

Delphine Honoré from Les Galets du Nord

La boîte à Thé

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ture. This guarantees that the item will last for several decades without the colours fading. The workshop also supplies boxes known as «washis», covered with traditional Japanese papers that are imported directly from Japan. There are three different models of tea boxes: illustrated, washi and domed. These products are 100% made in Calais. The workshop itself employs 4 full-time workers. In 2016 they hope to launch a range of ceramic boxes. La Boite à Thé, 6 rue du Commandant Mengin - 62100 Calais T: 00 33 (0)3 21 30 57 47 Buy on-line at www.la-boite-a-the.com

Atomania: The little workshop that makes quirky and whimsical jewellery!Imagine if jewellery could speak, if it could tell silly stories or sometimes even a few home truths… Familiar objects that can be perso-nalised as you wish, inviting you to pass on a message … Quirky, whimsical, colourful, sparkling! That is the world of Atomania. Jewellery that brings colours to life and that is an expression of your words and your desires. A way of finally sharing them, giving them as gifts or simply keeping them safe in your se-cret garden.Le Touquet resident Laurence Labbé loves to create and to have fun! She was a secretary for many years, but wanted to give free rein to her imagination by founding Atomania, the workshop where she creates whimsical

jewellery. She has also decided to start selling on-line. Chat with the artist and create your own personalised jewellery at www.atomania.fr

Verra Carlota, puts glass in the shop windowAn artisan glassmaker based in Sailly-La-bourse, close to Béthune, Charlotte Cadot alias «Verra Carlotta» fell in love with her craft after visiting churches and admiring the in-terplay between light and transparency in the glass. She then obtained the title of « Fellow

Glassmaker » at the European Centre for Re-search and Training in Glass Arts. Today, Verra Carlotta restores and creates original and de-corative glass panels that can be used in win-dow frames or suspended independently. She also creates jewellery and glass pearls, in all shapes and colours (from €25 to €150). What is particularly interesting, should you wish to try making glassware yourself, is that Charlotte Cadot also organises courses for «Discovering and learning glassmaking tech-niques» for the general public. You can leave with your very own piece of glassware under your arm! This would be a unique piece, the fruit of your own imagination, entirely created

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by you under the watchful eye of a professio-nal. (Prices are around €160/pers. Declining fees depending on number of participants)Atelier Verra Carlota 5, rue d’Annequin 62113 Sailly-Labourse T: 00 33 (0)6 77 22 83 36 www.verracarlota.fr

In Saint-Omer, « Givrés du Cornet » will show you all the colours of the rainbowFrom classic flavours to the most astoni-shing tastes, these exquisite ice creams are always a delight. One thing is certain, once you have tasted the ice creams and milk shakes by Christophe Peters («Best Appren-tice in France” winner in 2009) and Simon Fournier (runner-up in France’s ice craving competition), also known by the joint name of « Givrés du Cornet », you will never want to try any other. On the menu, an impressive range of varieties, bursting with flavour and created with all natural ingredients! These artists are meticulous when selecting their ingredients and it is this quality that makes all the diffe-rence. It is a real team effort! They themsel-ves pasteurise the raw milk, delivered every morning by a dairy in Tatinghem. For their sorbets, they work with the greengrocer next door, guaranteeing the freshness and the fla-vour of all the fruits and vegetables (yes, ve-getables!) used in the desserts that you will love sampling.At any celebration, these original iced deserts are sure to cause a sensation!Les Givrés du Cornet, 4 rue des Clouteries62500 Saint-Omer T: 00 33 (0)3 21 11 92 98www.lesgivresducornet.fr

Sophie’s biscuits will make your mouth water!In the markets of Boulogne, on Saturday (Place Dalton) and Sunday (Boulevard Gam-betta), discover the delicious biscuits of So-phie Farrugia. Sample the «Biscuit de Calais» (flavoured with chicory and almond), the «Sa-blé de la Beurière» (flavoured with Maroilles cheese or Madagascan Vanilla, depending on your taste...), the «Biscuit du Nord» (made using brown sugar and cinnamon) or even the «Dunes de Wissant» (a cloud of meringue)… Biscuits with the sweet flavours of yesteryear, made by hand, that will bring back the plea-sant memories of childhood for just a few mo-ments. If you are looking for authentic tastes, take the time to discover this biscuit shop where you will find people who passionately defend natural flavours, as well as individually made biscuits that are soft or crumbly. Here you have the chance to share the same values as Sophie Farrugia.

The cake of your dreams?If you would like to know everything about patisserie but have never dared to try it, So-phie Farrugia is on hand to teach you the tech-niques and the little tips you will need to make your desserts an instant success!(Saturday afternoons, 3h approximately, subject to reservation by a minimum of 3 par-ticipants – Contact: 00 33 (0)6 72 22 64 74 (25). Sophie Farrugia also makes sure to include your kids, teaching the thousand and one ways to make succulent and colourful Cup Cakes to celebrate their birthdays.Biscuiterie Sophie Farrugia: Zone de l’Inquétrie, 5 rue du Moulin L’Abbé - Saint-Martin-Boulogne T: 00 33 (0)9 67 12 64 68 Buy on-line at www.sophielesp-titsgateaux.fr

Around Louvre LensIn order to satisfy shoppers who are looking for a souvenir of their stay that is unlike any other local companies and producers, have established a brand of products that are typi-cal of the region, gathering them all together under the ALL « Around the Louvre Lens » label.

The variety of ALL products extends to a range of accessories for the office and kitchen, home decor and wellbeing products… What they have in common is that they have all been designed by socially responsible local compa-nies in a way that respects and illustrates the savoir-faire and the values of this area. A great example of teamwork, where feasible ideas come together with our own savoir-faire. That is how the « Les Blondes d’Ici » box was created, made up of three local beers with great character – La Ch’ti, Page 24 and La Goudale – that bring with them the promise of conviviality, friendship and shared moments.Staying with the ALL gastronomic range, the « Boulets du Mineur » confectionary, the en-dive confit from La Ferme aux Chiconnettes or even the famous « Gaufres du Nord » from Chez Drelonou will satisfy shoppers who are looking for a souvenir of their stay that is un-like any other.

www.aroundlouvrelens.com

The ALL range of products is available from theboutiques at the Louvre Lens and in Tourist Offices of the department: Lens-Liévin Tourist Office : 58 rue de la Gare ,Lens - T: 00 33 (0)3 21 67 66 66Béthune-Bruay Tourist Office : 3 Rue Aristide Brian,Béthune - T: 00 33 (0)3 21 52 50 00Arras Tourist Office : Hôtel de ville, Place des Héros, ArrasT: 0033 (0)3 21 51 26 95

Les Givrés du CornetChicory confit Sophie’s Biscuits

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After 17 years spent working at Eurotunnel, Isabelle Rault was weary of the same old rou-tine and started thinking about embarking on a new career. This lady who had always loved decoration, quirky objects and beautiful furniture dreamed of owning her very own boutique, but had never dared to try and make it happen. When she bought her house in Selles, it was the moment something clicked. Despite pressure from family, colleagues and friends, but with the unwavering support of her husband, Isabelle Rault made a decision: she would open a bou-tique at her home in Selles.Opening a boutique in the middle of the

countryside is quite a challenge to take on! But Isabelle had faith and she knew that this was her moment. That was three years ago. Today, the boutique that she dreamed up is a wild mix of new and antique objects, with a selection of hand-picked brands. Isa-belle Rault is also a committed visitor of flea-markets. She bargain hunts, res-tores the items and gives them a new life. She has taken up residence in her husband’s workshop, and he finds her quite a disruptive tenant…And the magic seems to work. On her Facebook page that she updates daily, Isabelle presents high-quality and quirky items. She builds bridges with her clien-tele. Enthusiasts sometimes travel for hundreds of kilometres to shop at her boutique.Most of all, she really doesn’t want to go

back to a stressful and mundane work life, so she has learned to keep an eye on the amount of stock in her boutique so that she can remain an artisan. But she is already making plans in her head for an orangery and the sale of garden fur-niture. Isabelle also has a great relation-ship with the famous bakery of Selles, with whom she hopes to collaborate on projects in the future…

Today, Isabelle Rault can say that she was up to the chal-lenge: doing what she loves and making a living from her passions. When she isn’t wor-king, she loves to take the time to have lunch at Le Normandy in Wissant or to enjoy a stroll in Tilques. Simple pleasures.

Isabelle RaultThe dream of an avid antique hunter

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Enduropale

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1st July 2015 – 21 March 2016METAMORPHOSESGlass Pavilion, Louvre-Lens Carte blanche to Bruno GaudichonThe Metamorphoses are a long epic poem, written at the very beginning of our times. In his work, Ovid tells of the GraecoRoman world and its origins, up to the Emperor Augustus, who reigned during Ovid’s lifetime. In his fabu-lous stories of the metamorphoses of gods, heroes and even mere mortals, he describes the beauty of nature and the geography of the Mediterranean basin. A new exhibition at Louvre-Lens’ Glass pavilion will showcase the Metamorphoses, a tremendous source of inspiration for artists since ancient times. The exhibition will bring together around 30 works from museums across the Nord-Pas de Calais region: 1st century bronzes, paintings by Van Dyck and Delacroix, sculptures by Carpeaux and Rodin, but also furniture, objets d’art and an illustrated book by Picasso. They offer a fascinating in-sight into the world of the beauty of Narcissus, the darkness of Medea, and the fearlessness of Icarus.www.louvrelens.fr

W A N D E R I N G S B Y T E N D A N C E S & C OMainEvents

5 December 2015 – 29 February 2016DANCE AND KISS WHOEVER YOU LIKETemporary exhibition gallery, Louvre-LensParties and love delights in the time of Madame de PompadourThis exhibition pays tribute to the genre of the “Fête galante”, popularised by Antoine Watteau (1687-1721), which experienced undeniable success across France and Europe throughout the Enlightenment. Responding to a thirst for freedom and the relaxation of morals during the Régence period, this theme proclaimed the joy of living, the delights of love, the alchemy of feelings and the need to see and be seen. In the wake of Watteau, the genre of the “Fête galante” was adopted by his pupil Jean-Baptiste Pater, and also by his followers Nicolas Lancret, Bonaventure de Bar and Pierre-Antoine Quillard. In turn, other masters suggested their own variations: the pastoral work of François Boucher, the melancholy of Jean-Honoré Fragonard, and the gently sentimental of Louis-Joseph Watteau de Lille.The theme also produced an exceptional glut of work from the porcelain manufactories, especially Sèvres. From Meissen to Venice, it enjoyed undeniable success across Europe. Painters such as Dietrich, Troost and Gainsborough, sculptors, including Ferdinand Tietz and Giovanni Bonazza worked at every opportunity in painting, drawing and sculpture, on these pleasant themes, celebrating shared emotions. The Applied Arts also cap-tured the theme and considerably multiplied its output, paying homage to both French taste and the joy of living.www.louvrelens.fr

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Cité de la dentelle et de la modeLouvre-Lens

Kite Festival Berck-sur-Mer

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17 October to 15 May 2016Annette Messager Dessus Dessous(Upside Down)Musée des Beaux-Arts and Cité Internationale de la Dentelle et de la Mode- CalaisAnnette Messager is one of the greatest French artists.Her installations, made from a surprising range of shapes and materials (soft toys, writing, stuffed animals, fabric, wool, pho-tographs, embroidery, drawings, etc.), blend a variety of social and political registers with humour and sarcasm, playing on our emotions, sensations and prejudices.www.cite-dentelle.fr

27-28 March 201625th Festival of Sea Imagery, NausicaaThis year again, you will see some of the most beautiful unde-rwater images of the present time. Festival goers will be able to appreciate the richness of the Ocean and learn how important it is to preserve it. The general public will also be able to meet leading filmmakers and marine world enthusiasts.www.nausicaa.fr

29- 30 31 January 201641th Enduropale,Le Touquetwww.enduropaledutouquet.fr

9 to 17 April 201630th InternationalKite Festival,Berck-sur-Merwww.cerf-volant-berck.com

5-6-7 February 2016Salon des Vigneronset des Terroirs, Calaiswww.salon-des-vignerons.com

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Guided ToursChanging Model (a laboratory of events in 1915 in Artois)Until December 31st 2015, Bully-les-MinesCome and discover a panoramic vision of the scenes of battles which took place in the Artois, from Mazingarbe to Notre-Dame de Lorette.Guided tours (previous booking requested) on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays, every hour between 3pm and 6pm. Maison du Centenaire Jean Mallet, place Clemenceau62160 Bully-les-Mines - T:00 33 (0)3 21 44 92 91www.bullycentenaire.canalblog.com

On the trail of British soldiers, from Saint-Omer to LonguenesseNovember 28th 2015, Saint-Omer, FranceIn 1914, the British general headquarters was established in Saint-Omer. The face of the town was transformed, as dwellings were requisitioned for militrary use, roads were strewn with signs and banners written in English and shops and businesses adopted English routines. This guided pathway allows visitors to retrace the history of the British presence, from Saint-Omer to Longuenesse and the strategic airfield there. The visit will end with a traditional British afternoon tea. Starting at 2 pmAdults :€5,50 / Concessions : €3,50 for students and under 25 year olds / Free for under 15 year olds and unemployedPlace Foch, 62500 Saint-Omer - T: 0033 (0)3 21 98 08 51 www.ville-saint-omer.fr

ExhibitionsWhen La Chartreuse was BelgianUntil November 1st 2018, Neuville-sous-MontreuilLa Chartreuse de Neuville association is keen to introduce the general public to a relatively unknown fact of its history by celebra-ting the centenary of the largest Belgian hospital from the war.The exhibition allows visitors to discover this period in history through many photographs and documents including intimate journals, postcards, testimonies, and press clippings.

Free visit of the exhibition: €3, concessions: €2. Visit of La Chartreuse + exhibition: €9. Free for under 8 year olds. Educational visit for pupils: €4 /pupilLa Chartreuse de Neuville, 1, allée de la Chartreuse, 621701 Neuville-sous-Montreuil - T: 0033 (0)3 21 06 56 97www.lachartreusedeneuville.org

The pencil warFrom November 9th 2015 to November 20th 2015Bully-les-Mines, FranceIn 20 panels, the exhibition to discover these drawings which, if they keep the freshness of childhood, offer a vision of the Great War and lived told in the rear, by children’s schools 3rd Republic. Reflecting the official discourse, at least initially, these drawings are a valuable testimony on war and society during the conflict.From 10 am to midday and from 2 pm to 5 pm - Free admissionMaison des associations, square Jean-Mallet, 62160 Bully-les-MinesT: 0033 (0)3 21 44 92 92

Civilians in WartimeFrom November 6th 2015 to January 10th 2016, ArrasThroughout four years of bombardments, a small number of inhabi-tants continued to dwell in the ruins of the town of Arras. Visitors will have the chance to discover their life in the caves, and relationships with military authorities. The exhibition has been specially organised for the opening of the «Civilians in Wartime» season.Free admissionHôtel de Ville d’Arras - Arras - T: 0033 (0)3 21 71 62 91 - www.arras.fr

Words of WarFrom November 27th 2015 to January 10th 2016, ArrasSurviving under German bombardments for four years, a few inhabitants of the region were able to hold on to their journals and photo albums documenting their experiences of the war. This exhibition invites visitors to discover the notebooks that have been preserved by the Media Heritage Service. Free admission Médiathèque de l’Abbaye Saint-Vaast, 20 rue Paul Doumer, 62000 ArrasT: 0033 (0)3 21 71 62 91 - www.arras.fr

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Memory of an outpost during the Great WarUntil December 31st 2015, CamiersThe hundred year old church of which the inauguration in August 1914 had to be postponed following declaration of the war serves as the starting point of a signed trail focussing on the mobilisation of civilians and the entire parish, based on mutual aid, care and faith, more than ever present: 2,000 temporary hospital beds were set up from 1915 in the village of Camiers.Open every day non stop from 9 am to 6 pm - Free admissionÉglise Notre-Dame de la Mer, chemin de ronde du cimetière, 62176 CamiersT: 0033 (0)3 21 84 72 18 - [email protected]

At the heart of the GHQ in Montreuil-sur-MerFrom November 11th 2015 to November 15th 2015

Montreuil-sur-Mer, FranceThe objective is to explore by means of a publication in French, an exhibition and conference, the vision of a participant at the centre of British command of Montreuil-sur-Mer during the Great War from 1916 on, namely: medical advances, the lives of women, the evolution of French-British relations, the issue of recycling, the functions of the GHQ and the fate of foreign workers. The GHQ book was written by a British officer on the operation of this centre of command from his arrival in 1916. Unpublished in the French language, it is a description of the main challenges, difficulties and successes that led to victory in 1918.Église Saint-Josse-au-Val, rue des Préaux, ville basse, 62170 Montreuil-sur-MerT: 0033 (0)3 21 81 54 07

ExhibitionWars, science and technology: 1914-1945From October 30th 2015 to September 30th 2016, Helfaut, FranceThis wide-ranging temporary exhibition offers audiences a chance to find out about the scientific and technological advances that accompanied the two world wars. Indeed, the extended duration of the first conflict would serve to highlight, in a spectacular and terrifying way, the radical technical transformations being deployed on the battle-fields. When the war ended in late 1918, the belligerents left behind a combat environment that was technically very different to how it had begun in 1914, in terms of the widespread use of tanks, planes, submarines, gas and explosives. This phenomenon continued to an even grea-ter extent during World War Two. The field of battle and the

terms of military strategy were radically altered by the impact of these new forms of armaments.Every day non stop from 9 am to 6 pm. Included in the entry ticket to History Center

La Coupole, Centre d’Histoire et Planétarium 3D, rue André Clabeaux, 62570 Helfaut - T: 0033 (0)3 21 12 27 27 - www.lacoupole-france.com

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Free tag application

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€6 annual fee for first year subscription, save 50% on

the annual fee from the second year onwards. Only €3* instead of €6

€20 fully refundable security deposit

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€5* active usage fee for the month in

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Sanef Tolling and Eurotunnel Le Shuttle, your partners to stress-free driving in France.

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Page 32: Wanderings by tendances #3

Diamant HotelIn Arras

* Offer valid until 31 March 2016. Subject to availability. Price per apartment. 1 apartment for 6 people, 72 m² with 1 double, 1 twin, 1 sofa bed. 1 apartment for 5 people, 55 m² with 1 triple room : 1 double bed + 1 single bed, 1 sofa bed. Advance booking required directly with the hotel. Cannot be used in conjunction with any other offer or discount.

Only €179*

for 2 nights2 nights in a self catering apartment

A charming hotel in the heart of ArrasJust over an hour’s drive from Eurotunnel Le Shuttle Calais Terminal

Conveniently located in the heart of the historical town of Arras, Diamant Hotel dates back to the 17th century.This small family hotel affords cosy surroundings with some of the bedrooms looking onto the magnificent square and its Belfry, a UNESCO World Heritage site. If you travel with your family or friends, you can also choose one of our 2 apartments accommodating 5/6 people. From the hotel, we suggest you wander around the side streets and discover traditional restaurants as well as many boutiques whilst also taking in the architectural wealth of the town. Arras, is without a doubt, one of the prettiest towns in the Pas-de-Calais area.

Hôtel Diamant - Chambres et appartements5, place des Héros

62000 ArrasTel. 0033 (0)3 21 71 23 23

www.arras-hotel-diamant.com

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Maison AdeliaIn Saint-Omer

* Offer valid until 31 March 2016. Price per person. Advance booking required directly with the restaurant. Limited capacity. Restaurant open only for lunch, Tuesday to Friday between 1200 and 1400 hours. Excludes French Bank Holidays. Cannot be used in conjunction with any other offers. Not valid for groups.

Only €25*

per person3-course menu and café gourmand

In grandmother Adelia’s kitchen!Approximately 30 minute drive from Eurotunnel Le Shuttle Calais Terminal

Murielle & Laurent Berthélémy are the proud owners of Maison Adelia, a small restaurant located in the historic centre of Saint-Omer. Laurent’s grandmother was known as “Mémère Adélia”, a larger than life character, who sadly passed away in 1999. This cosy restaurant which sits 14 people and offers top quality meals is well worth a visit. You will be seated in grandmother Adelia’s dining room and ser-ved creative gourmet dishes made from local organic produce. These will be accompanied with Murielle’s fine selection of lesser known wines.Welcome to you all!

la Maison Adéliasaint -omer

la Maisonfléchin

La Maison Adélia6, Enclos Saint-Sépulcre

62500 Saint-OmerTel. 0033 (0)3 21 12 69 33

www.lamaisonrestaurant.fr

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La bulle SensorielleIn Tatinghem (near Saint-Omer)

* Offer valid until 31 March 2016. Subject to availability. Price for 2 people Advance booking is required by phone. Cannot be used in conjunction with any other offers.Not valid for groups.

Only €99*

1 hour massage for 2 people*

Enjoy a pampering treat!Just a 30 minute drive from Eurotunnel Le Shuttle Calais Terminal

La Bulle Sensorielle will take you on a journey of complete relaxation. Enter a new world of massages, facials and body treatments, uniquely innovative, inviting and sophisticated.Allow your senses to be stimulated. Their highly trained team will take pride in caring for your skin leaving it feeling beautiful.Live a unique multi-sensory experience in the AlphaRoom, it will reduce your stress in a simple, unrestrained way. Or why not experience a whole range of complete spa treatments thanks to the AémotioSPA? You can also opt for diving into bubbles of comfort and exquisite pleasure, and then totally let go with a Zen treatment. You will be spoilt for choice!

La bulle Sensorielle6, rue du Bras

62500 TatinghemTel. 0033 (0)3 21 11 75 66

www.labullesensorielle.fr - [email protected].

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Najeti Hotels & GolfsIn Northern France

* Offer valid until 31 March 2016. Subject to availability.Price per room based on a double «charme room». Breakfast not included.Advance booking required directly with the hotel or via najeti.frBook online at Najeti.fr or call quoting «euro70». Cannot be used in conjunction with any other offers. Not valid for groups

Only €70*

for 1 or 2 people

Najeti, 5 hotels so close to you…Up to 1 hour drive from Eurotunnel Le Shuttle Calais Terminal

Stay in one of the 5 Najeti Group hotels and indulge in French luxury and elegance… So close to you and yet such a refreshing change! You will enjoy these character properties, whether you choose to stay in Château Hôtel Cléry or Hôtel de l’Univers, a former monastery. This is relaxation at its best in exceptional surroundings: the hallmark of the Najeti Group. Enjoy!

Najeti Hôtel du Parc - Hardelot - Tel: 0033 (0)3 21 33 22 11 www.parc.najeti.fr

Najeti Hôtel de l’Univers - Arras - Tel: 0033 (0)3 21 71 34 01 www.univers.najeti.fr

Najeti Hôtel Château Tilques - Tel: 0033 (0)3 21 88 99 99 www.tilques.najeti.fr

Najeti Hôtel du Golf - Lumbres - Tel: 0033 (0)3 21 11 42 42 www.golf.najeti.fr

Najeti Hôtel Château Cléry - Hesdin l’Abbé - Tel: 0033 (0)3 21 83 19 83 www.clery.najeti.fr

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Les Argousiers HotelIn Ambleteuse near Boulogne-sur-Mer

* Offer valid until 31 March 2016. Subject to availability. 20% off your total bill including breakfast, sauna, accommodation, snack menu and all drinks. Advance booking required directly with the hotel. Cannot be used in conjunction with any other offer. Not valid for groups.

20%*

off your bill

Stay in the heart of a natural reserveJust a 30 minute drive from Eurotunnel Le Shuttle Calais Terminal

Les Argousiers is a hotel located in Ambleteuse (a coastal resort between Calais and Boulogne-sur-Mer) at the heart of thePas-de-Calais natural reserve. The hotel bedrooms are modern and well equipped and the staff will welcome you warmly. A hearty buffet breakfast will keep you energised during your visits to the fishermen’s villages, the beaches and even your road trip to Boulogne-sur-Mer,along the magnificent Opal Coast. The landscapes are truly breathtaking in all seasons!

Hôtel des Argousiers28, rue Clemenceau

62164 AmbleteuseTel. 0033 (0)3 21 99 87 00www.hoteldesargousiers.fr

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Aux Pêcheurs d’EtaplesIn Etaples-sur- Mer

* Offer valid until 31 March 2016. Subject to availability. Price per person.Advance booking required directly with the restaurant. Not valid during weekends and on French bank holidays. Cannot be used in conjunction with any other offer.Not valid for groups. Glass of wine selected by the restaurant.

Only €29

*

per person3-course menu + a glass of wine

Straight from the fishing boatto your plate!Just 1 hour drive from Eurotunnel Le Shuttle Calais Terminal

Our restaurant, “Aux Pêcheurs d’Etaples” is ideally located on the way to the charming seaside resort of le Touquet Paris Plage.With a fantastic view over the port of Etaples you soon realise that seafood does not come any fresher than this!The boats unload their morning catch and Gérard Auvray, our passionate chef, lovingly prepares it and brings it to your plate: Cod terrine with pan-fried fresh vegetables, Etaples soup, fish millefeuille, creamy onion and haddock soup, to name but a few. An experience your taste buds will never forget!

Restaurant Aux Pêcheurs d’EtaplesQuai de la Canche

62520 Etaples-sur-MerTel. 0033 (0)3 21 94 06 90

www.auxpecheursdetaples.fr

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Haec Otia, luxurious B&BIn Le Touquet

* Offer valid until 31 March 2016. Valid from Monday to Thursday. Subject to availabilityPrice per room, maximum 2 adults, breakfast included. Advance booking required. 45-minute body massage for 2 in the Villa Saint Maxime in Le Touquet town Centre. Must be redeemed when staying at Haec Otia. Cannot be used in conjunction with any other offers. Quote «Shuttle» when booking. Not valid for groups.

Only €180*

for 2 peopleRoom & Breakfast + FREE body massage

A magical moment...Less than 1 hour drive from Eurotunnel Le Shuttle Calais Terminal

Haec Otia is a luxurious guest house located near the centreof le Touquet Paris Plage. This huge mansion has been designed purely to provide outstanding facilities with itsmagnificent bedrooms, indoor swimming pool, steam room … A short stroll will take you to the Claude Maxime Salon where you can relax with a 45-minute body massage. You will love your stay here and you will want to come back.

Haec Otia - Demeure d’HôtesAt the corner of Avenue de l’Atlantique

and Avenue Louis Aboudaram62520 Le Touquet-Paris-Plage

Tel. 0033 (0)3 21 06 46 [email protected]

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Castel Victoria HotelIn Le Touquet

* Offer valid until 28 February 2016. Subject to availability. Price for a double room (Cosy Terrasse) and breakfast.Advance booking directly with the hotel by email or telephone quoting “GB1002CV”.Cannot be used in conjunction with any other offer .Not valid for groups.

Only €109

*

for 2 peopleRoom & Breakfast

Enjoy a break in this uniquelounge hotelLess than 1 hour drive from Eurotunnel Le Shuttle Calais Terminal

The Castel Victoria Hotel is altogether different from other hotels. Whether you fancy a drink or just want to relax, each lounge and bar has its own ambiance to suit your mood and the time of the day. 25 bedrooms designed in a contemporary style give you a pleasant «cocooning» feeling. Inspired by conceptual hotels in New York, London or Berlin, most bathroom spaces have been cleverly incorporated into the bedrooms to enhance the feeling of comfort and well-being.

Castel Victoria Hotel11, rue de Paris

62520 Le Touquet-Paris-PlageTel. 0033 (0)3 21 90 01 00

[email protected] - www.castelvictoria.com

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Nausicaá and Opal’inn HotelIn Boulogne -sur-Mer

* Offer valid until 31 March 2016. Subject to availability Price per room, maximum 2 adults, breakfast included. To book send an email at [email protected] quoting Eurotunnel and giving your date of visit. Cannot be used in conjuction with any other offer. Not valid for groups.

Only €99

*

for 2 peopleRoom & Breakfast + entrance to Nausicaá

Exceptional break with Nausicaá and Opal’Inn HotelJust a 30 minute drive from Eurotunnel Le Shuttle Calais Terminal

Head to Boulogne-sur-Mer for an exceptional break with Nausicaá and Opal’Inn Hotel, both ideally located on the seafront. Nausicaá is the largest European complex entirely devoted to marine life. Meet the playful sea lions and admire the amazing sharks. How about a date with the penguins? Or observe piranhas and caymans.After this fun-filled day, just walk across the road to the recently refurbished Opal’Inn Hotel. In the morning, a tasty and generous French breakfast will make sure you are ready for the day ahead.

Nausicaá Bd Sainte-Beuve 62200 Boulogne-sur-Mer - Tel. 0033 (0)3 21 30 99 99

[email protected] - www.nausicaa.co.uk

Hôtel Opal’inn 170, bd Sainte-Beuve62200 Boulogne-sur-Mer - Tel. 0033 (0)3 21 32 15 15

www.hotel-opalinn.com

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Centre Culturel de l’Entente CordialeChâteau d’Hardelot

1 rue de la Source - 62360 CondetteTel: +33 (0)3 21 21 73 65

[email protected]

Château d’Hardelot in Condette

Less than 1 hour drive from the Eurotunnel Le Shuttle Calais Terminal.

This place is an icon of the Franco-British heritage. Steeped in his-tory, French and British influences intersect, challenge or merge with one another. Home to the Entente Cordiale Cultural Centre, the Château d’Hardelot stands at the crossroads of these two cultures. Behind its characteristic nineteenth century architectureand interior, the story of the Franco-British history unfolds. From thedining room to the billiard room, from the smoking room to the private apartments, every element of the decor recounts great moments in history, from William the Conqueror to the Channel Tunnel. The works of art and furniture are from the collections of prestigious institutions such as the Mobilier National and the Louvre. The Entente Cordiale Cultural Centre, led by the Pas-de-Calais Regional Council, also offers a perfect setting for its sump-tuous cultural programme.

For more information, visit www.chateau-hardelot.fr

Open from Tuesday to Sunday, from 10.00am to 6.00pmThemed visits every Sunday at 3.00pmClosed on 25 December 2015 and 1 January 2016Annual closing : from the 4th january to 5th february.

Discover the Château d’Hardelot, its nineteenth century interior, its exceptional cultural programme

Free: Visit of the castleProgramme of activities for autumn

and winter : exhibitions, seasonal events,story telling, workshops.

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Pas-de-Calais TourismRoute de la Trésorerie62126 WimilleTel: +33 (0)3 21 10 34 [email protected] wwww.visit-pas-de-calais.comwartimehistory.pas-de-calais.com

Aux Pêcheurs d’EtaplesRésidence de la Canche62630 Etaples-sur-MerTel: +33 (0)3 21 94 06 90www.auxpecheursdetaples.fr

Agglo Henin-Carvin242 Boulevard Albert Schweitzer62110 Hénin-BeaumontTel: +33 (0)3 21 79 13 79

Communauté Artois Lys7 rue de la Haye62190 LillersTel: +33 (0)3 21 01 11 75

Château d’Hardelot1 rue de la Source 62360 CondetteTel: +33 (0)3 21 21 73 [email protected]

Haec OtiaAvenue de l’Atlantic62520 Le Touquet-Paris-PlageTel: +33 (0)3 21 32 15 15www.demeure-hote-haecotia.fr

Hôtel des Argousiers28, rue Clemenceau62164 AmbleteuseTel: +33 (0)3 21 99 87 00www.hoteldesargousiers.fr

Hôtel Castel Victoria11, rue de Paris62520 Le Touquet-Paris-PlageTel: +33 (0)3 21 90 01 [email protected] www.castelvictoria.com

Hôtel Diamant Chambres et appartements5 place des Héros62000 ArrasTel: +33 (0)3 21 71 23 23Web : www.arras-hotel-diamant

La bulle Sensorielle6, rue du Bras62500 TatinghemTel: +33 (0)3 21 11 75 66www.labullesensorielle.fr [email protected]

Groupe NAJETIwww.najeti.fr

Najeti Hôtel du Parc - Hardelot Tel: +33 (0)3 21 33 22 11Najeti Hôtel Cléry - Hesdin L’Abbé Tel: +33 (0)3 21 83 19 83Najeti Hôtel de l’Univers - Arras Tel: +33 (0)3 21 71 34 01Najeti Hôtel Château Tilques - Tilques Tel: +33 (0)3 21 88 99 99Najeti Hôtel du Golf - Lumbres Tel: +33 (0)3 21 11 42 42

NausicaáBoulevard Sainte-Beuve62200 Boulogne-sur-MerTel: +33 (0)3 21 30 99 99www.nausicaa.fr

Opal’Inn168/170 Bd Sainte-Beuve62200 Boulogne-sur-MerTel: +33 (0)3 21 32 15 15www.hotel-opalinn.com

La Maison Adélia6, Enclos Saint-Sépulcre62500 Saint-OmerTel: +33 (0) 3 21 12 69 33www.lamaisonrestaurant.com

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www.diaries14-18.com www.victoria-cross-heroes.com

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Concerts, the Métaphone®

Guided tours, The 9-9bis

Concerts, entertainment and heritage, The 9-9bis

Cycling, Parc des îles

Rambling, Parc des îles

Sport Heritage Discovery Nature Culture

EXPLORE THE AREA OF HÉNIN-CARVINONLY 1-HOUR DRIVE FROM CALAIS

Visit of the 9-9 bis mining pit

Walk along disused railway lines

Go rambling in a unique landscape

Outdoor activities at the Parc des îles

Focus on the environment at Aquaterra