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10
TOP 10
YOUR GUIDE TO THE 10 BEST OF EVERYTHING
10
10
Essential Olympic venuesUnmissable museums & ancient sitesBest restaurants, tavernas & barsMost irresistible places to shop Greatest moments in Greek historyMost alluring nearby islandsEnthralling legends of Ancient GreeceLiveliest festivals & special eventsBest hotels for every budgetInsider tips for every visitor
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10
10
10
10
10
10
10
ATHENS
EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
Areos
Vathis
Exarcheia
MetaxourghioOmonia
Pefkakia
Gazi
Psiri
Dexameni
SyntagmaMonastiraki
Thissio
Anafiotika
Plaka
Makrigianni
Veikou
Koukaki
Mets
Pediou touAreos
PlateiaKotzia
PlateiaKlafthmonos
NationalGardens
ZappeionGardens
LofosArdittou
StrefiHill
FilopapposHill
Agora
Acropolis
I E R A O D O S
AG. ASO
MATO
N
L I OS I O
N
M A R N IA
CH
AR
NO
NA
TH
I NA
S
A K A DI M
I A S
K A L L I DR O
MI O
U
C H . T R I KO U P I
E . B E N A K I
MEG. ALEXANDROU
A K A DI M
I A S
S K OU
F A
K A N A R I
D I O N Y S I O U A R E O P A G I T O U
KA
RE
AV E I K O U
R O V E R T O U G A L L I
AP
OS
TO
L OU
PA
VL O
U
K A L L I RR O I S
I P E I R O U
S O F O K L E O U S
E V R I P I D O U
DIPYLOU
AIO
LOU
AIO
LOU
F IL E
L LI N
ON
NI K
I S
VOU
L IS
M ITROPOLEOST H E S S A L O
N I K I S
L E O F O R O S A L E X A N D R A S
LEOF A
NDREA SYNGROU
LEOFO
ROS
VASI
LISSI
SAM
ALIA
S
L EOF VAS IL ISS IS OLGAS
E L E F T H E R I O U V
A G I O U K O N S T A N T I N O UA C H I L L E O S
28
O
KT
OV
RI O
U
( PA
TI S
I ON
)
3
SE
PT
EM
VR
I OU
P A N A G IT S A L D
A R I
( P E I R A I O S )
E R M O U
E R M O U
P A NE P I S T I M
I OU
S T ADI O
U
S T ADI O
U
PLATEIALYSIKRATOUS
PLATEIAFILOMOUSOU
PLATEIAMITROPOLEOS
PLATEIAMONASTIRAKI
PLATEIAAG IRINISPLATEIA
AVISSYNIAS
PLATEIAIROON
PLATEIAELEFTHERIAS
PLATEIASYNTAGMA
PLATEIAOMONIA
PLATEIAEXARCHEIA
PLATEIAVATHIS
PLATEIAKARAISKAKIPLATEIA
METAXOURGHIO
PKO
PLATEIALYKAVITTOU
PLATESTADI
ADR I A NO
U
A D R I A N O UIRAKLE IDON
Plaka, Makrigianni & Koukaki pp68–75
Monastiraki, Psiri, Gazi & Thissio pp78–85
Omonia & Exarcheia pp86–93
Syntagma & Ko
500
This Top 10 Travel Guide to Athens divides the city into four areas:Plaka, Makrigianni and Koukaki; Monastiraki, Psiri, Gazi and Thissio;Omonia and Exarcheia; and Syntagma and Kolonaki. A further sectionlooks at sights beyond Athens. Each area is colour coded; the colourbands of the chapters correspondto the colours shown on the mapshere. Almost every place men-tioned in the book has a mapreference, which takes you tothe maps opening outfrom the flaps.
Left Pediou tou Areos Centre Left Ancient Agora Centre Right Temple of Poseidon, Cape Soun
Athens Area by Area
Evzone soldier
Old State House
Neapoli
Kolonaki
Pagkrati
u
AlsosPagkratiou
LykavittosHill
MA
R S AL I
I R OD
OTO
UP . I O K E I M
L E O F VG E O R G I O U B
EFTYCH IDOUEFRANOROS
ER ATOSTHENOUS
ARCHIMIDOUS
E N I Z E L O U ( V S O F I A S )
L EO F V A S I L
EO S
K ON S T AN T I NOU
PLATEIAPLASTIRA
PLATEIAOLONAKI
PLATEIADEXAMENI
EIAOU
PLATEIA TROUMAN
lonaki pp94–101
0 500yards metres
nio Right Cafés,Thissio
Monastery of Daphni
Parthenon
Tzia
Hydra
Aegina
Kythnos
Evia
Gulf ofCor inth
SaronicGulf
M i r t o o S e a
Marathonas
Rafina
Sounio
Vouliagmeni
Alepochori
Poros
NeaEpidauros
Karies
Nestani
Kiato
Kaliani
Nemea
Ermioni
Portocheli
Kalapodi
Itea
Thespies
Aspra Spitia
Kimi
Alveri
Lavrio
Korinthos
Tripoli
ATHENSMegara
LivadiaThebes
HalkidaNorth of Athenspp110–115
Attica Coastpp122–127
Piraeuspp102–107
pp116–121Into thePeloponnese
Around Athens
040 40miles km
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£Larissa
Larissa
Metaxourghio
Omonia
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Votanikos(open 2004)
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Sygrou–Fix
Monastiraki
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Va t h i s
M etaxo u r g h i oO m o n i a
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Makrigianni
Ve i k o u
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Hill of theNymphs
AreopagusRock
FilopapposHill
P L ATE IALYS I KR ATO
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PLATEIAMITROPOLEOS
PLATEIAMONASTIRAKI
PKLAF
PLATEIAKOTZIA
PLATEIAAG IRINIS
PLATEIAAVISSYNIAS
PLATEIAIROON
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PLATEIATHEATROU
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SOFOKLEOU S
E V R I P I D O U
D I P Y L O UAG IO I TH EODOROI
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LO
U
AI O
LO
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AT H I N A I D O S
L E OF
K
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NT I N
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P OL E O
S
IO
AN
NI
NO
N
T H E S S A L O N I K I S
28
OK
TO
VR
LE
NO
RM
AN
LE
NO
RM
AN
L E O F O R O S
A N D R E A
S Y N G R O U
A G I O UK O N S T A N T I N O U
A C H I L L E O S
28
OK
TO
VR
I OU
(P
AT
I SI O
N)
3 S
EP
TE
MV
RI
OU
P A N A G I T S A L D A R I
(
P E I R A I O S )
P A N A G I T S A L D A R I ( P E I RA I O
S )
E R M O U
E R M O U
PST
AD
I OU
Mitropoli
Panagia
KanellopoulosMuseum
Stoa of Zeus
Temple ofHephaestus
Odeonof Agrippa
Stoaof Attalos
MunicipalArt Gallery
Cine Psiri
CeramicMuseum
FleaMarket
FirstSynagogue
FlowerMarket
Hadrian'sLibrary
Technopolis
Athinais400m
PedomaniaClub
AthenaeumMaria Callas
Bernier/EliadesGallery
P
NationalTheatre
City Hall
CentralMarket
Athens StockExchange
LalaounisMuseum
FilopapposMonument
Prisonof Socrates
AgiosDimitrios
Dora StratouTheatre
Agia Marina
NationalObservatory
of Athens
Pnyx
Kapnikaréa
AgoraMuseum
Tower ofthe Winds
RomanForum
Agora
Kerameikos
Acropolis
New AcropolisMuseum
NatioArchaeolog
Muse
Athens City
q
q
q
vv
vv
v
v
vv
v
v
v
v
v
v v
v
vv
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vv
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c
See Central Athens map on back flap
MavromateonBus Terminal
Panepistimio
Evangelismos
Syntagma
A r e o s Avero
Exarcheia
P e f k a k i a
Neapoli
D e x a m e n i
K o l o n a k i
S y n ta g m a
i
P l a k a
Pa g k r
M e t sS ta d i o
LofosFinopoulouPediou tou Areos
NationalGardens
ZappeionGardens
LofosArdittou
First NationalCemetery
AlsosPagkratiou
StrefiHill
Ly k a v i t t o sH i l l
AOU S
P L ATE IALOMOU SOU
PLATEIAFTHMONOS
P L AT E I AA R G E N T I N I S
D I M O K R AT I A S
I AG O S
PLATEIAEXARCHEIA
PLATEIAPROFITI ILIA
P L AT E I AP L A S T I R A
P L AT E I AP A G K R AT I O U
P L AT E I AM E S O L O N
G I O U
P L AT E I AD A N T E
PLATEIAKITSIKI
NIKOLAO
PLATEIAKOLONAKI
P L AT E I AD E X A M E N I
P L AT E I ALY K AV I T TO U
PLATEIASKOUZE
A G I O US P Y R I D O N O S
P L AT E I A S TA D I O U
PLATEIATROUMAN
RE
THY
MN
OU
GEO
RG
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L E K K A
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AS
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S T O A
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ME TH
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OS
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DE R V E N
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DE R V E N
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VA LT E T S I OU
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EVE LP I DOS RO
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VOU LGARO
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U
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NI N
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A R I S T I P P O U
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AR
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MO
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EMMANO U ILBENAKI
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ANTO
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KORON I S
PATRIARCH OU SERGIOU
NIKIFOROUOURANOU
G LY K O N O S
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AGATHIOU
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C H O I D A
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S
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KEY
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Line 2
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Railway
Athens Transport Links
02 2miles km
5002500 metresards
ATHENS
CORAL DAVENPORT
JANE FOSTER
DK EYEWITNESS TOP 10 TRAVEL GUIDES
2
Contents
Athens’ Top 10
Acropolis 8
The Agora 12
National Archaeological Museum 16
Museum of Cycladic Art 18
Roman Forum and Tower of the Winds 20
Benaki Museum 22
Kerameikos 26
Byzantine Museum 28
Filopappos Hill 30
Temple of Olympian Zeus 32
Moments in History 34
Philosophers and Writers 36
Athenian Legends 38
Greek Inventions 40
Produced by Blue Island PublishingReproduced by Colourscan, Singapore
Printed and bound in Italy by Graphicom
First published in Great Britain in 2004by Dorling Kindersley Limited80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL
A Penguin Company
Copyright 2004, 2006 ©Dorling Kindersley Limited,
London
Reprinted with revisions 2006
All rights reserved. No part of thispublication may be reproduced, storedin a retrieval system, or transmitted inany form or by any means, electronic,
mechanical, photocopying, recording orotherwise, without the prior writtenpermission of the copyright owner.
A CIP catalogue record is available fromthe British Library.
ISBN-13: 978-14053-1-227-1ISBN-10: 1-40531-227-0
Within each Top 10 list in this book, nohierarchy of quality or popularity isimplied. All 10 are, in the editor’sopinion, of roughly equal merit.
Co
nte
nts Left Temple of Hephaestus, Agora Centre Glass bottle, Benaki Museum Right Kapnikarea
The information in this DK Eyewitness Top 10 Travel Guide is checked regularly.
Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible at the time ofgoing to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices,
gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are liable to change. The publisherscannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this book, nor forany material on third party websites, and cannot guarantee that any website address in thisbook will be a suitable source of travel information. We value the views and suggestions of
our readers very highly. Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London, WC2R 0RL.
Cover: Front – DK Images: Rob Reichenfeld bl; Alamy Images: © nagelestock.com main image;Maria Stefossi: clb. Spine – DK Images: Nigel Hicks. Back – DK Images: Joe Cornish tc; Rob Reichenfeld tl, tr.
3
Artistic Styles 42
Archaeological Sites 44
Museums 46
Churches 48
City Strolls 52
Places to Shop 54
Restaurants 56
Greek Dishes 58
Festivals and Events 60
Olympic Venues 62
Moments in the History ofTheatre and Music 64
Around Athens
Plaka, Makrigianni andKoukaki 68
Monastiraki, Psiri, Gazi and Thissio 78
Omonia and Exarcheia 86
Syntagma and Kolonaki 94
Beyond Athens
Piraeus 102
North to Delphi 110
Into the Peloponnese 116
Around the Attica Coast 122
Streetsmart
Planning Your Visit 130
Sources of Information 131
Arriving in Athens 132
Getting Around 133
Banking and Communication 134
Shopping Tips 135
Dining in Athens 136
Things to Avoid 137
Specialist Tours 138
Accommodation Tips 139
Places to Stay 140
General Index 148
Co
nten
ts
Left Greek soldiers Centre Island of Aegina Right Souvlaki restaurants, Monastiraki
Left Herodes Atticus Theatre Right View of the Peloponnese and Poros town
Key to abbreviations
Adm admission charge payable A/C air conditioning
ATHENS’TOP 10
Acropolis8–12
The Agora12–15
National ArchaeologicalMuseum
16–17
Museum of Cycladic Art18–19
Roman Forum and Tower of the Winds
20–21
Benaki Museum22–23
Kerameikos26–27
Byzantine Museum28–29
Philopappos Hill30–31
Temple of Olympian Zeus
32–33
Top Ten of Everthing34–65
ATHEN
S’ TOP 10
5
7
9
2
1
Vathis
Omonia
KerameikosPsiri
MonastirakiThissio
Anafiotika
Makrigianni
Hill of theNymphs
FilopapposHill
Acropolis
Agora
ACHILLEOS
28
3 S
EP
TE
MV
RI O
U
P A N A G I T S A L D A R I (
P E I R A I O S )
E R M O UE R M O U
PLATE IAKARAISKAKI
PLATEIAAG. IRINIS
PLATEIAOMONIA
PLATEIAMITROPOLEOS
PLATEIAMONASTIRAKI
PLATEIAIROON
PLATEIAELEFTHERIAS
PLATEIAVATHIS
PLATEIAKOTZIA
ROBERTOUGALL I
IPE IROU
ADRIANO U
THERMO
PYLON
AG
ION
ASOM
ATON
L IOS IO
N
M A R N I
ACH
ARN
ON
AT
HI N
AS
M A R N I
MEGALOU
ALEXANDROU
DELIGIANNI
AI O
L OU
D I O N Y S I O U A R E O P A G I T O U
AP
OS
TO
L OU
PA
VL O
U
E V R I P I D O U
DIPYLOU
6
Athens is simultaneously known as the Classical,marble-pillared cradle of Western civilization and as amodern urban sprawl of concrete and traffic. Betweenthe extremes lies a kaleidoscopic city, where the in-fluences of East and West entwine in the markets, cafésand tavernas, built upon ancient ruins and rubbingshoulders with gold-leafed Byzantine churches.
Previous pages Athens’ Acropolis
Highlights of Athens
Ath
ens’
To
p 1
0
Museum ofCycladic Art
The world’s largestcollection of Cycladic artshowcases a matriarchal
island culture whose5,000-year-old icons still
inspire artists ofthe modern world.
(See pp18–19.)
National Archaeo-logical Museum
The greatest collection offinds from some of theworld’s greatest cultures ishoused here (above).Exhibits include the goldtreasure of Mycenae andthe first sculptures to depictthe complexity of the humanform. (See pp16–17.)
AcropolisThe crown jewel of Greece, if not all of
Europe. Its temples are the most influentialbuildings in Western architecture. (See pp8–11.)
The AgoraSocrates,
Aristotle andSt Paul all heldforth in the market-place below theAcropolis. Thiswas the heart ofthe ancient city.(See pp12–15.)
Tower of the Winds detail
46
8
0
3Areos
Exarcheia
Neapoli
Kolonaki
Syntagma
Plaka
NationalGardens
ZappeionGardens
StrefiHill
LykavittosHill
LEO
FORO
SVA
SIL I
SSIS
AMA
LIAS
E L E F T H E R I O U V E N I Z E L O U ( V S O F I A S )
LEOFOROS VAS ILEOS K
ONSTANTINOU
OKT
OVR
IOU
E R M O UMITROPOLEOS
FILE
LLIN
ON
P A NE P I S T I M
I OU
S T A DI O
U
PLATE IASYNTAGMA
PLATEIALYSIKRATOUS
PLATEIAFILOMOUSOU
PLATE IAPLAST IRA
PLATE IAKOLONAKI
PLATE IADEXAMENI
PLATE IALYKAVITTOU
PLATEIAKLAFTHMONOS
AFTOKRATOROS IRAKLEIOU
KALL IDROM
IOU
C H A R I L A O U T R I KO U P I
I P P O K R A T O U S
ARDITTOUATHAN. D IAKOU
S K OU
F AA K A DI M
I A S
A K A DI M
I A S
LEOFOROS V GEORGIOU B
IRO
DO
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T IKO
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P L ATE IA STAD IOU
ER ATOSTHENOUS
LEOF VAS IL ISS IS OLGAS
0 metresyards500 500
7
Ath
ens’ To
p 10
Byzantine MuseumThe rich, complex history of
the Byzantine Empire is toldthrough the greatest of its works,from the intricacy of preciousmetalwork to the solemnity ofthe many icons. (See pp28–9.)
Roman Forum andTower of the Winds
The Romans abandonedthe ancient Agora andcreated this orderly newcommercial centre. Itsshowpiece was themagnificent Tower of theWinds, which housed aningenious water clock.(See pp20–21.)
Benaki MuseumA first-rate collection of
Greek art from Neolithic topresent times. It is housed ina beautifully renovated Neo-Classical mansion (left), with anintriguing history and famedrooftop view. (See pp22–23.)
Temple ofOlympian Zeus
Ancient Greece’s most colossaltemple (above) stands beside themonumental arch that dividedAthens between Greek heroTheseus and formidable Romanemperor Hadrian. (See pp32–33.)
KerameikosClassical Athens’ cemetery
gives a fascinating cross-section oflife, and death, at the city’s edge,with elaborate tombs (above),temples, sacred roads – and anancient brothel. (See pp26–7.)
Filopappos HillA green-gladed
respite in the citycentre, with a won-derful view and a mixof monuments thatencompass ancient(left), Byzantineand modern Greekculture. (Seepp30–31.)
8
Visit first thing in the
morning or at sunset
to avoid the energy-
sapping midday heat
and multitudinous
tour groups.
The cantinas at the
Acropolis are out-
rageously overpriced.
Bring your own
(large) bottle of
water and a snack.
• Map J4• 210 321 4172-2• www.culture.gr• Metro: Akropoli• Apr–Sep: 8am–7:30pmdaily; Oct–Mar:8:30am–3pm daily• Adm €12; studentshalf price• Admission priceincludes entry intoKerameikos, Theatre ofDionysus, Agora, RomanForum and Temple ofOlympian Zeus (valid for4 days)
The temples on the “Sacred Rock” of Athens are considered the most importantmonuments in the Western world, for they have exerted more influence on ourarchitecture than anything since. The great marble masterpieces were con-structed during the late 5th-century BC reign of Perikles, the Golden Age ofAthens. Most were temples built to honour Athena, the city’s patron goddess.Still breathtaking for their proportion and scale, both human and majestic,the temples were adorned with magnificent, dramatic sculptures of the gods.
Ath
ens’
To
p 1
0
Top 10 Sights
1 Acropolis Rock2 Propylaia3 Temple of Athena Nike4 Panathenaic Way5 Parthenon6 Erechtheion7 Acropolis Museum8 Panagia Chrysospiliotissa9 Herodes Atticus Theatre0 Dionysus Theatre
Acropolis from the rockyoutcrop of Areopagos
Acropolis
Acropolis RockAs the highest part of
the city, the rock is an idealplace for refuge, religion androyalty. The Acropolis Rock
has been used continu-ously for these purposes
since Neolithic times.
PropylaiaAt the top of the rock,
you are greeted by thePropylaia (above), thegrand entrance throughwhich all visitors passed toreach the summit temples.
Temple of AthenaNike (“Victory”)
There has been a templeto a goddess of victory atthis location since prehis-toric times, as it protectsand stands over the partof the rock most vulner-able to enemy attack.
Panathenaic WayThe route used in an
ancient procession when anew tunic, or peplos, wouldhave been offered to Athena,along with sacrifices.
ParthenonThis was the epitome
of ancient Greek Classicalart, a magnificent “Templeto the Virgin”, goddessAthena, who was represent-ed inside by a giant goldand ivory sculpture.
9
Ath
ens’ To
p 10
The Acropolis inLater TimesIn the 5th century AD,the Parthenon was usedas a church. During theOttoman occupation, itwas used as a mosque,and the Erechtheion asa harem. The Ottomansalso kept gunpowder inthe Parthenon, whichled to its near destruc-tion when the Venetiansshelled it during thesiege of 1687 (see p31).The Parthenon sufferedfurther damage in 1799when Lord Elgin remov-ed sculptures, takingthem back to England.The current restorationwill finish in 2006.
Acropolis MuseumThe current museum
is to be superseded bythe glittering New Acro-polis Museum, opening in2007 (see pp10–11), butfor a while they will bothbe in operation.
PanagiaChrysospiliotissa
Originally dedicated to thegod of wine and revelry, thecave was later turned intothe church of the Virginof the Golden Cave.
Dionysus TheatreThis mosaic-tiled
theatre was the site ofClassical Greece’s dramacompetitions, where thetragedies and comediesby the great playwrights(Aeschylus, Sophocles,Euripides) were first per-formed. The theatre seated15,000, and you can stillsee engraved front-rowmarble seats, reservedfor priests of Dionysus.
Herodes AtticusTheatre
A much later addition(right), built in 161 by itsnamesake. In summer
it hosts the AthensFestival (see pp60–61).
Entrance
1
2
3
45
6
7
8
90
ErechtheionAccording to myth, Athena
and Poseidon battled for pat-ronage of Athens on this spot.The Erechtheion’s designunites separate temples toeach of the two gods.
10
The Glass FloorThe museum is built directly
over an early Christian settlement.Glass floors will allow visitors tolook directly down into the sitewhile surrounded by Classicaland Archaic sculptures.
The Parthenon Marbles The marbles will be dis-
played in the order in whichthey would have gracedthe Parthenon, withblank spaces signifi-cantly left for sculpturesthat remain in London.
The Calf-BearerThis joyous Archaic
sculpture shows a beard-ed man carrying a calf, tobe offered as a sacrifice toAthena. The statue itselfwas a votive offering anddates to 570 BC.
The Peplos KoreOne of the most
exquisite of the Archaicvotive statues. Her gown, calleda peplos, was painted withdecorative colours. Traces ofpaint are still visible on her eyes,lips and curly hair.
Kore with Almond-Shaped Eyes
The most sumptuous of thevotive koroi – her detaileddrapery and fully formed bodyshow real development in sculp-ture. Her dress was painted withdetailed patterns, including a
border with the distinctive“Greek key” pattern.
Pediment of the Ancient Temple
Part of the pediment of an ancienttemple to Athena, built before theParthenon and later destroyed,shows Athena fighting against a
Giant. It dates to 520 BC.
The Kritios BoyThis beautiful
sculpture of a youngmale athlete marks thetransition from Archaic toearly Classical sculpture,with the introduction ofa naturalistic pose. The
Kritos Boy sculpture datesto 480 BC.
Relief of the“Mourning Athena”
This tiny relief shows thegoddess Athena as a girl,without sword or shieldand clad in an Attic peplos.
The Caryatids The original statued pillars
that supported the Erechtheion’sporch have been brought insidefor protection. Their arms arebroken now, but initially they heldlibation bowls.
Frieze on the Temple of Athena Nike
The small but dynamicallysculpted frieze shows scenes ofbattle, with gods, Persians andGreeks all stepping into the fray.
New Acropolis MuseumLeft and Right Sculptures from the ancient temples
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For an explanation of artistic styles and terms see pp42–3
The Calf-Bearer
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The small, worn-around-theedges Acropolis Museum hadnever really done justice tothe stunning treasures it heldwithin. But the Greek govern-ment’s multi-storey, all-glassshowpiece of a new museumat the foot of the Acropolisdoes. Most of the oldmuseum’s contents are
scheduled to be moved to the new museum when itpartially opens in 2007. However, there’s an ulteriormotive to the construction of this new museum, whichis to send a pointed international message. In 1799,the seventh Earl of Elgin cut off two-thirds of thesculptures of gods, men and monsters adorning theParthenon and took them to England. Most were soldto the British Museum, which refuses to return them,saying Athens cannot display them adequately orsafely. Now, in turn, Athens can reply that the newmuseum answers this criticism and eliminates thelast barrier to returning the marbles, for which aspecial room awaits in the new museum. Greecehopes that when thousands of international visitorssee the sparkling but empty showcase in 2004, it willratchet up the pressure on Britain, forcing a much-anticipated return of the marbles.
More than a BuildingTop 10 ScenesDepicted in theParthenon Marbles
1 The birth of Athena,springing fully formedout of Zeus’s head(see p38)
2 The Pantheon watchingAthena’s birth
3 Athena and Poseidon’sfight for control of thecity (see p38)
4 The gods watch andtake sides in Athena andPoseidon’s battle
5 The PanathenaicProcession, ancientAthens’ most importantreligious event
6 The battle of theCentaurs and Lapiths
7 The battle of the godsand the Giants
8 The battle of the Greeksand the Amazons
9 The sack of Troy0 Priestesses prepare a
veil for Athena
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Old Acropolis
Museum
Artist’s impression of the New Acropolis Museum
New Acropolis MuseumGlass walls will allow a directview of the Acropolis templesfrom within the museum,while the glass floor will givea view over the ruins of anearly Christian settlement.
The Parthenon will be directly visible through glass walls
Note: The New Acropolis Museum is located in Makrigianni –at K6 on the Central Athens map on the back flap
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The best overview of
the Agora is from
the Areopagos rock
(see p53).
Most places surround-
ing the Agora serve
tourist fare; Athenians
however head for To
Kouti on Adrianou for
twists on taverna
classics.Try the rose-
petal ice cream!
• Adrianou, Monastiraki• Map B4• Metro: Monastiraki• 210 321 0185• www.culture.gr• Mar–Dec:8am–7:30pm daily; Jan & Feb: 8:30am–3pm daily • Adm €4, or includedwith Acropolis ticket
Athens’ ancient marketplace, founded in the 6th century BC, was theheart of the city for 1,200 years. It was the centre for all civic activi-ties, including politics, commerce, philosophy, religion, arts andathletics. This is where Socrates addressed his public, where democ-racy was born and where St Paul preached. Because of its varieduses, the rambling site can be confusing. But, unlike the swelter-ing Acropolis, the grassy Agora is a great place to wander,imagining the lively bustle that once filled this historic centre.
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Top 10 Sights
1 Stoa Basileios2 Odeon of Agrippa3 Temple of Hephaestus4 Tholos5 Great Drain6 Monument of the
Eponymous Heroes7 Altar of Zeus Agoraios8 Middle Stoa9 Nymphaion0 Stoa of Attalos
Statues in front of theOdeon of Agrippa
The Agora
Stoa BasileiosBuilt in 500 BC, this
building housed the officeof legal affairs concerningancient cults. Most of itwas destroyed when theGoths invaded Athens inAD 267. Its ruins are bestviewed from Adrianou.
Odeon of AgrippaMarcus Vipsanius
Agrippa, an official with thefirst emperor Augustus, hadthis theatre built in AD 15.Outside stood statuesfeaturing three serpent-tailed Giants and Tritons onhuge plinths. Two Tritonsand a Giant still remain.
Temple ofHephaestus
The best-preserved Classicaltemple in Greece, devotedjointly to Hephaestus andAthena. Its fantasticalfrieze depicts the deedsof Theseus and Herakles.
TholosThe 50-member
executive committee of thefirst parliament lived andworked in this circularbuilding, whose nametranslates as “beehive”.
Temple of Hephaestus
Odeon of
Agrippa
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AgoraMuseum
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Site of PilgrimageYou may well see peoplestanding on the Areo-pagos, the rock abovethe Agora, praying orsinging hymns. Pilgrimsfrom around the worldretracing the steps ofPaul converge here, thesite named in the Bible(Acts 17:22–34) wherethe saint gave hisfamous “Men ofAthens …” speech.The address spoke of thewrongs of ancient Greekreligions, and here Paulconverted the firstAthenians to Christianity.
Great DrainWhen Athens
experiences adownpour, thestill functioningGreat Draincollects runofffrom the Acro-polis, Areopagosand Agora, andsends it to thenow mostly dryEridanos river.
Monument of theEponymous Heroes
Citizens were divided into 10 tribes (phylae), eachrepresented by a differentAttican hero. This monu-ment, dated 350 BC, hadbronze statues of eachrepresentative tribal hero:Antiochos, Ajax, Leos,Hippothoon, Erechtheus,Aegeus, Cecrops, Akamas,Pandion and Oeneus.
Altar of Zeus Agoraios
This lavish temple to theruler of the gods wasoriginally built elsewherein Athens (possibly thePnyx) in the 4th centuryBC. In the first centuryAD, it was dismantled,brought to the Agoraand reconstructed.
Middle StoaThe large Middle Stoa
took up the major part ofthe central marketplace,its two aisles lined withDoric columns.
Stoa of AttalosKing Attalos II of
Pergamon (159–138 BC)built this impressive two-storey structure (right).It was reconstructed in1956 by the AmericanSchool of Archaeology.Today the Stoa is aworld-class museumdisplaying finds fromthe Agora. (See pp14–15.)
NymphaionThe ruins of the Nym-
phaion, an elaborate 2nd-century fountain-house, arestill visible, despite thebuilding of a Byzantinechurch over it in the 11thcentury (above left).
Agora Site Plan
See following pages for the Agora Museum
14
AryballosThis small Archaic
oil-flask sculpted in theform of a kneeling boyrepresents an athletebinding a ribbon, asymbol of victory,around his head. Itdates to around 530 BC.
Klepsydra Dating to the 5th
century BC, this is a uniqueexample of the terracottawater clocks used for timingspeeches in the public lawcourts. When a speakerbegan, the stopper was pulledout of the jug. It would takeexactly six minutes for the waterto run out, at which point thespeaker had to stop, even if hewas in mid-sentence.
Ostraka These inscribed pottery
fragments played a crucial role inthe incipient democracy. Calledostraka, they were used as ballotsin the process of ostracism. Whenthere was fear of a tyranny,citizens voted to exile politiciansconsidered dangerous to demo-cracy. Those displayed show thenames of several prominentpoliticians exiled in this way,including Themistokles, one ofAthens’ most important leaders.
Bronze Shield This huge Spartan shield
was a trophy taken by theAthenians after their victory over
the Spartans in the battle ofSphacteria, in 425 BC. It
is a vast object, andit’s incredible toimagine a soldiercarrying something soheavy and cumber-
some into the meleeof battle. On the front of theshield, one of the Athenianvictors has inscribed, “Athensdefeated Sparta at Pylos”.
Head of Nike This small, delicate head
of Athena Nike (right), datedto around 425 BC, was once
covered with sheets of silver andgold; eyes would have been inset.
Winged NikeThis sensuous, swirling,
rippling statue of Athena onceadorned the Agora’s Stoa ofZeus Eleutherios. Her activestance and clinging, flowingchiton (a loose, full-length tunic)are typical of the way in whichthe goddess was depictedat that time. It dates to around415 BC.
Athenian Law forDemocracy
In 336 or 337 BC, the citizens ofAthena passed a historic vote fora new system of democracy,giving every (male) citizen anequal vote. The law is inscribedhere, and topped by an image ofa personification of the Demos(people) of Athens being crownedby Democracy herself.
Left Ostrakon condemning Hippocrates to exile Right Stoa of Attalos
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Aryballos,
Archaic oil-
flask
Agora Museum (Stoa of Attalos)
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The Stoa of Attalos originally served as a 2nd-century BC shoppingmall. Both arcades were divided into shops, and the cool marble-pillared space was a popular place for wealthy Athenians to meet
and gossip. Through decades of excavations, the Agora has becomerecognized as one of Greece’s most important sites, yielding finds
precious for their artistic quality and ability to tell important storiesabout political and cultural life in the first democracy. In the 1950s, theAmerican School of Archaeology reconstructed the Stoa and convertedthe building into a museum to display finds from the site. Most of themuseum’s exhibits are closely connected with the development ofdemocracy in Athens. Outside, in the marble passage, are displayedstatues that once adorned the temples in the marketplace.
The Stoa of Attalos
The reconstructed Stoa of Attalos, now home of the Agora Museum
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Apollo Patroos This colossal but finely
sculpted cult statue of Apollograced a temple to the god inthe Agora. A later copy showsthat in this sculpture the god ofmusic was playing the kithara, anearly stringed instrument. Datingto around 330 BC, it is the workof the famous sculptor andpainter Euphranor.
Marble Cleroterion This allotment machine was
used by the Parliament of Athensbetween the 3rd and 2nd centuryBC, in the period of the tentribes of Attica, to select officials.The seemingly simple box per-
formed complex operations withslots, weights, cranks andcoloured balls. A sign below thedisplay case explains thecomplexities of its operation.
Calyx KraterDating to 530 BC, this is the
earliest known calyx krater – anelegant vessel used to mix waterand wine at banquets – and theonly vase of this shape attributedto Exekias, the greatest Attic vasepainter. It shows several beauti-fully detailed scenes, includingHerakles being introduced to thegods of Olympus and the Greekand Trojan heroes’ fight over thebody of Patroclus.
Head of
Nike
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There’s so much to
see here that it
makes sense to go
twice – and to invest
in one of the short
informational guide
books available at
the museum.
There is an atrium
café inside the
museum and a larger
café out front.
• 44 Patision (28 Oktovriou) • Map C1• Metro: Victoria• 210 821 7717• www.culture.gr• Apr–Oct: 8am–7pmdaily; Nov–Mar:10:30am–5pm Mon,8:30am–3pm Tue–Sun• Adm €6
More than just the best museum in Greece, this is one of the mostimportant and exciting museums in the world. It is packed withfamous, influential and beautiful works from the great BronzeAge cultures described by Homer to the Golden Age ofClassical Athens and beyond. The temporary closure of partof the museum since 1999 has afforded the chance toimprove the display of the priceless finds amassed here.
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Top 10 Exhibits
1 Cycladic Collection2 Thira Frescoes3 Mycenaean Collection4 Hellenistic Statuary5 Bronze Collection6 Classical Statuary7 Grave Stelae8 Archaic Koroi9 Vase Collection 0 Egyptian Wing
The museum’s imposingNeo-Classical façade
MycenaeanCollection,
16th–11th Centuries BCThe Mycenaeans were famed bothfor their prowess as warriors andtheir hoards of gold. Parts of thoseshining hoards are displayed here,including this legendary death mask(centre) and priceless golden swords.
Cycladic Collection,3,200–2,200 BC
The Cycladic Museum (seepp18–19) has the largest col-lection from this civilization,but here you’ll find some ofthe most unusual pieces,such as this harp-player(above), showing,unusually, a three-dimensionalfigure in action.
Hellenistic StatuaryHere the stiff, solid monuments of
the Archaic period give way to sculpturesthat are full of vigorous movement andsensuality. This is especially so in the100 BC group of Aphrodite, Pan andEros, the statue of a wounded Gaul andthis youth of Antikythira (right).
National Archaeological Museum
Thira Frescoes,
16th CenturyBC The highlyadvanced settle-ment of Akrotiri, on the island ofThira (Santorini),was buried under avolcanic eruption inthe 16th century BC.Beautiful frescoes, suchas these boxer boys (left),were perfectly preservedunder the ash.
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EarthquakeIn September 1999, thestrongest earthquake ina century rocked Athens,sending buildings tum-bling and, in the NationalArchaeological Museum,shattering fragile potsand frescoes. About half the museum wassubsequently closed tothe public, but reopenedwith most of the objectsrestored in 2004.
Bronze CollectionMany of the greatest
Archaic and Classicalworks were bronze,but few remain – mostwere melted down forweapons during invasions.This, the richest collectionof the survivors, includesa majestic 460 BC sculp-ture of Poseidon or Zeusand this 140 BC sculptureof a galloping horse (right).
Classical StatuaryCollected here are
original marble sculpturesfrom temples all aroundGreece. Highlights arethose that adorned theAsklepion at Epidauros,and works like the 100 BCDiadoumenos and amarble copy of a 5th-
century bronze by the great sculptor
Polykleitos.
GraveStelae
Classical marblegrave sculptures(below) were solarge and opulentthat they were actuallybanned in 317 BC. Thescenes in these beautifulcarvings typically show thedeceased on the right,the bereaved on the left.
VaseCollection
These intricately paintedvases show the develop-ment of pottery in Greecefrom Neolithic examples(above) to the 4th centuryBC. They were largelyfound in cemeteries andreligious sanctuaries.
Archaic Koroi, 7thCentury BC–480 BC
Koroi (statues of youthsand maidens used at tem-ples and graves) were thefirst monumental works inGreek art. The earliest arestiff and stylized, butthrough the centuries theartists learnt to depict thebody more naturalistically.
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Egyptian WingThis is a recent addi-
tion to the museum, andis fascinating to view inconjunction with theearliest Greek Archaic art,which borrowed heavilyfrom Egyptian statuarybefore developing intoits very own style. Lookout for the 715 BC bronzestatue of the princess-priestess Takusit.
Mycenaean death mask
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All the featured
exhibits are in the
main building of the
Cycladic wing.The
new wing shows
temporary
exhibitions.
School and tour
groups crowd the
museum most
mornings. If you
want peace and
quiet, leave your visit
until after 1pm.
The museum’s
atrium café makes
a great spot for a
light lunch.
• Neofytou Douka 4 and Vasilissis Sofias • Map P3• 210 722 8321• www.cycladic.gr• Metro: Evangelismos• 10am–4pm Mon–Fri,10am–3pm Sat• Adm: €5; students €2.50
A delightful setting in which to ponder elegant, semi-abstract Cycladic figurines – remnants of a culture thatflourished in the Cyclades from 3200–2000 BC. Thebeautiful marble carvings are unlike anything found incontemporary civilizations. Most are female forms –possibly cult objects of a goddess religion – and theirelemental shapes have inspired many 20th-century artists.
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Top 10 Exhibits
1 “Modigliani” Figure2 Dove Vessel3 Hunter-warrior and queen4 Male Figure5 Cup-Bearer6 Monumental Figure7 Symposium Kylix8 Dionysus Vase9 New Wing0 Gift ShopEntrance to the New Wing
Museum of Cycladic Art
Hunter-warriorand queen
The male and femalefigures (top), with elong-ated arms and almond-shaped eyes and mouths,are the most naturalisticof the later Cycladicfigures. Experts believethat the baldric anddagger carved around themale figure indicates thathe was a hunter-warrior.
Male FigureThe only male figure of
its size found so far in theprototypical Cycladic style
(right). Attributed to theGoulandris Master, who createdthe finest female figures, it hasthe same shape and placement
of the arms but distinctlydifferent genitals. The separated
legs indicate a standing pose,rather than the typically prone
pose of the female figures.
“Modigliani”Figure
So-called because thelines of this figure
(right) show up clearlyin the work of 20th-
century painter AmedeoModigliani. The slender,
simple shape, crossed armsand smooth face are all
classic Cycladic traits. Non-standing feet indicate that
such figures would probablyhave been lying down.
Dove VesselCarved entirely from
one block of marble, this isthe most remarkable of aseries of “frying-pan” vesselsfound in tombs (above).Archaeologists believe birdsheld an important sym-bolism for the Cycladicculture, as they appear inmany other carvings as well– but as to the nature ofthat significance, themystery remains.
Hunter-warrior and
queen
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Key to Floors 1 & 2
First Floor
Second Floor
MonumentalFigure
One of the largestCycladic figures ever
found, its size beautifullyshowcases the clearoutlines, symmetry andstyle of the gifted artist. Italso begins to suggest theArchaic style, which appear-ed centuries later. Its scalesuggests that it was morelikely used in a cult shrinethan in a grave.
Symposium Kylix
An exceptional piece of5th-century BC potterythat shows recliningyouths in a symposium,where they gathered tolounge, drink wine and
talk of philosophy(and, occasion-ally, coarsermatters). The
scene showsa pause in thehigh-mindeddiscourse for
the youths toplay a game
involving flippingtheir wine cupsinto the centre.
DionysusVase
This beautifullypreserved 6th-
century BC vase(right) shows god of
wine and revelryDionysus on one side
(flanked by nude,dancing satyrs) and, on
the other side, Athena andHermes conversing.
New WingIn 1991, the museum took over
the adjoining Stathatos Mansion, agorgeous gilded Neo-Classicalconfection designed by Bavarianarchitect Ernst Ziller (see p96).Here, among lusciously restoredchandeliers, velvet drapes and originalantique furniture, the museum holdstemporary exhibitions, receptions andoccasional lectures.
Gift ShopA destination in its own right for
serious shoppers. You can see howmodern and timeless the Cycladicfigures are in these reinterpretations onsilver jewellery and ceramics. There’salso a wide selection of coffee-tableand scholarly art books.
The GoulandrisDynastyThe museum’s founders,the Goulandris family,are arguably Greece’sgreatest shipping dyn-asty (they had a long-standing rivalry withOnassis). They are alsoknown for their legacyof arts: in addition to theMuseum of CycladicArt, the family havefounded two museumson the island of Androsand are planning a newMuseum of ModernArt in Athens.
Cup-BearerFigures like thisseated drinker, arm
raised jovially, areextremely rare in
Cycladic sculpture. Thefew that do exist showthat, in addition to theprone goddess figures
found in burials, theculture also produced
active images ofeveryday life.
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During the harvest
moon in late August
(considered to be the
biggest, brightest
moon of the year),
there is a free
moonlit classical
concert here.
Most restaurants
around the Roman
Agora are touristy
and overpriced. Head
for nearby O
Platanos, on
Diogenous, which
offers simple, tasty
and reasonably
priced taverna fare
(see p75).
• Aiolou and Diogenous,Monastiraki • Map J4–K4 • 210 324 5220 • www.culture.gr • Apr–Oct: 8am–7:15pm daily;Nov–Mar: 8am–3pmdaily • Adm €2 (students halfprice) or included in €12Acropolis ticket
In the first century AD, the Romans moved Athens’marketplace here from the old Agora. Smaller thanthe original, the marble-pillared courtyard was agrander place to set up shop, and this became thecommercial and administrative centre until the 19thcentury. Its greatest attraction was the unique andbrilliantly designed Tower of the Winds.
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Top 10 Sights
1 Tower of the Winds2 Agoranomeion (Office of the
Market Officials) 3 Vespasianae (68-seat Public
Latrine)4 Byzantine Grave Markers5 East Propylon6 Fetiye Mosque7 Courtyard8 Fountain9 Gate of Athena Archegetis0 Inscription of Julius Caesar
and Augustus
Partial restoration of the columns
Propylon gateway
Roman Forum & Tower of the Winds
Tower of the WindsThe octagonal tower,
built by Syrian astronomerAndronikos Kyrrhestas in50 BC, has personifica-tions of the winds on eachside. Inside, a water clockwas operated by a streamfrom the Acropolis.
Agoranomeion This two-roomed
building was believed,until recently, to be theoffice of market officials.Current theories say itmay have been part of acult to Claudius or Nero.
Vespasianae (68-seat Public Latrine)
The pleasantly situatedmarble facility was housedin a rectangular building witha courtyard in the middle,and latrines lining all foursides. Proximity wasn’t aproblem – latrines weresocial gathering places.
Byzantine GraveMarkers
In Byzantine times, whenthe Tower of the Winds wasused as a church, the areaaround it was a cemetery.Graves were marked withcylindrical engraved mark-ers, some quite beautiful.These were later gatheredin one place, along withothers from around Athens.
Euros, the southeast wind,
Tower of the Winds
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A Miscellanyof FindsEver since the 1940s,archaeologists have usedthe forum as a reposi-tory for small, unclassifi-able finds from all overAttica. Thus the site isstudded with out-of-place but fascinatingextras, like the wall ofmismatched capitalpieces near the Ves-pasianae (latrine), or thegarlanded sarcophagus,about which little isknown, by the fountain.
Fetiye MosqueDuring the Ottoman
occupation, the Forumremained an importantcentre. In 1456, the Turksbuilt this “Mosque ofthe Conqueror” (below)directly over the ruins ofan early Christian church.
East PropylonThis is one of the
two original entrances tothe marketplace (right).In a stoa next to it are
sculptures of importantRomans, probably
officials or emperors,which shoppers would
have seen while comingand going.
CourtyardThis was the centre
of activity. The courtyardwas surrounded by shopsand workshops sellingfood, cloth, ceramics,jewellery and wares fromabroad. The EmperorHadrian had thecourtyard paved in thesecond century AD.
FountainThis splashing marble
fountain, whose waters,like those of the waterclock, may also havebeen sourced from theAcropolis, once providedcool relief to market-goers.But stay away from thebrackish water thatoccasionally fills it today.
Gate of AthenaArchegetis
The monumental four-columned westernentrance to the forum isbuilt of beautiful Pentelicmarble. It was built in 11BC by Julius Caesar andAugustus, and dedicatedby the people of Athensto the goddess Athena.
Inscription ofJulius Caesar
and AugustusThe inscription denotingthat the Gate of AthenaArchegetis was built byCaesar and Augustus is sofaded that it can now onlybe seen at noon precisely.Stand outside the forum,and look directly at thetop of the entrance.
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EviaTreasure
Around 3000 BC, theintroduction of metallurgymarked the transition from the StoneAge to the Bronze Age. Outstandingexamples from this period are thesethree cups, two gold (one of whichis shown above) and one silver,hammered into simple forms withminimal decoration. They datefrom 3000–2800 BC.
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Bear in mind that
there is free
admission and late
night opening on
Thursdays.
It is almost
impossible to see
the entire Benaki
collection in one go:
explore one section
in the morning, stop
for lunch in the
rooftop café, then
see the rest in the
afternoon.
• Koumpari 1, Kolonaki• Map N3• 210 367 1000 • www.benaki.gr • Metro: Syntagma • 9am–5pm Mon,Wed, Fri & Sat;9am–midnight Thu;9am–3pm Sun;• Closed Tue • Adm €6; free Thu
This vast museum gives a panoramic view ofGreek history from the Stone Age (7000 BC) tothe 20th century, by way of Classical Greece andthe eras of the Byzantine and Ottoman empires.Over 20,000 objects are laid out in chronologicalorder in 36 rooms, showing the evolution ofGreek painting, sculpture and handicrafts.
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1 The Building2 Evia Treasure3 Thebes Traesure4 Thessaly Treasure5 Paintings by El Greco6 Mid-18th-Century
Reception Room7 A Second Room from
Kozani8 Greek Independence
Memorabilia9 Café0 Shop
The rooftop café
Benaki Museum
The BuildingA magnificent white Neo-
Classical mansion of 1867. Itwas bought by EmmanuelBenakis in 1910, passedto his children, thenwas presented tothe state in1931 when itopened as amuseum.
Key
Ground Floor
First Floor
Second Floor
Third Floor
Entrance
Thebes Treasure During the late Bronze Age,
ornamental jewellery was used todisplay personal wealth. This hoard of Mycenaean gold jewelleryincludes an engraved gold signet ring(above), depicting a sacred marriageconnected to the worship of aprehistoric goddess.
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ThessalyTreasure
This stunning display of Hellenisticand Roman gold jewellery from the
3rd–2nd centuries BC employs filigree andgranulation (beads of gold soldered onto metal)to produce minutely crafted earrings, necklaces,
bracelets and diadems. The decorative bandabove has a knot of Herakles at its centre.
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Who Was Benakis?Antonis Benakis (1873–1954) was born in Egyptto an immensely wealthymerchant, EmmanuelBenakis, who later be-came Mayor of Athens.Antonis began collectingIslamic art while inAlexandria and went onto collect Byzantine artand Greek folk art oncein Athens. He donatedthe entire collection tothe Greek state in 1931.His sister, PenelopeDelta (1874–1941), wasa much-loved author ofchildren’s books.
Paintings byEl Greco
Domenikos Theotokopoulos(1541–1614) became knownas El Greco while living in
Spain. Two early works here,completed while the artist
was still in his native Crete,include The Adoration of the
Magi (right), influencedby the Venetian School.
Mid-18th-CenturyReception Room
The richly painted and gilded woodenceiling and panelled walls of thisroom (left) – a reconstruction froma Macedonian mansion – recall atime when these crafts flourishedin the region, as local merchantsprospered under Ottoman rule.
A Second Room from Kozani Another reconstruction from Macedonia, this
mid-18th-century reception room features a minutelycarved wooden ceiling, ornate built-in wooden cup-boards and a low seating area, complete with Persianrugs and cushions, and a wrought-iron coffee table.
Greek Indepen-
dence Memorabilia Finely decorated swords,
sabres and rifles, a paintingof a long-haired moustachioed
freedom fighter from 1821(right) and a portable writing
desk belonging to Lord Bryonare among the displays.
CaféCultural overload? Take a break on
the rooftop terrace café overlooking thetrees and lawns of the National Gardens.
ShopHere, exhibits such as ceramic bowls
and tiles, jewellery and Byzantine iconshave been carefully reproduced, usingoriginal craft techniques where possible.
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The green site and
surrounding indust-
rial buildings are at
their most eerily
lovely in the early
evening, tinged pink
by the setting sun.
Several reasonably
priced tavernas line
the nearby streets of
Adrianou and Apos-
tolou Pavlou. Head to
either for a trad-
itional outdoor lunch.
• Ermou 148, Thissio• 210 331 0137; 210 331 4324• Map A3–4• Metro: Thissio • Apr–Oct: 8am–7pmdaily; Nov–Mar:8am–3pm daily• Adm €2• Oberlander Museum• Apr–Oct: 8am–7pmdaily; Nov–Mar:8am–3pm daily
The outer walls of ancient Athens run through Kerameikos,once the edge of the Classical city. Warriors and priest-esses returned to Athens via two separate roads throughhere (one to a brothel, the other to a temple). Statesmenand heroes were buried beneath showy tombs lining theroads. And it was also the scene of far shadier activities:the haunt of prostitutes, money-lenders and wine-sellers.
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Previous pages Temple of Olympian Zeus
Top 10 Sights
1 City Walls2 Dipylon 3 Pompeiion4 Sacred Gate5 Warriors’ Tombs6 Sanctuary of the Tritopatores7 Tomb of Dexileos8 Marble Bull, Tomb of Dionysios
of Kollytos9 Stele of Hegeso0 Oberlander Museum
Stele of Demetria and
Pamphile
Statesmen’s tombs
Kerameikos
City WallsThe walls, which sur-
rounded the entire city, werebuilt by Athenian ruler Themi-stockles in 478 BC. Made inhaste, the walls incorporatedmaterials from all over thecity, including marble fromtombs, temples and houses.
DipylonThe grand entrance to
Athens was the largest gatein ancient Greece. The mainroads from Thebes, Corinthand the Peloponnese led tothis gate, and many ceremo-nial events were held here tomark arrivals and departures.
PompeiionThe Pompeiion (right) wasused to prepare forfestive and religious
processions,especially the
annual Panathenaicprocession, in
which a newgarment was
brought to thestatue of Athena in
the Parthenon.
Sacred GateThrough this well-
preserved gate passedthe Sacred Way, reservedfor pilgrims and priest-esses during the proces-sion to Eleusis (see p111).A great marble sphinxwas built into the gate.
Sacred Way
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For sights and pleasures in areas neighbouringKerameikos see pp78–85
The Old Potters’DistrictThe name Kerameikoscomes from Keramos,the patron god ofceramics. According toPausanias (see p37) andother early writers, thename recalls an age-oldgroup of potters’workshops on thegrassy banks of theriver Eridanos, whichcuts through the site.The museum containsfine examples of Greekurns and other potteryfound at the site.
Warriors’ TombsThe high, round
burial mounds (tumuli)lining the holy road datefrom the 7th century BC
and were probably firstbuilt to honour greatwarriors. Most have
marble coffins and offer-ings at their centres,
with the mounds builtup around them.
Marble Bull The bull of the tombof Dionysios of Kollytosis perhaps the mostrecognizable monumenthere. Its inscriptionstell us that Dionysioswas praised for hisgoodness, and diedunmarried, mourned byhis mother and sisters.
Stele of HegesoThis lovely grave pedi-
ment is one of the finestworks of 5th-century BCAttic art. Hegeso, the deadwoman, is seated, takinga trinket from a box. Theoriginal is in the NationalArchaeological Museum.
OberlanderMuseum
This small museum ispacked with fascinatingfinds, including originalsof many tombs replacedby casts. Don’t miss pot-tery shards of eroticscenes from a brothel.
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Tomb of DexileosThis marble-relief
carved tomb (above) is ofa young horseman whodied in 394 BC. The deadof ancient Greece wereoften depicted along withtheir living family, sayinga final goodbye.
Site Plan
PIREOS
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Sanctuary of theTritopatores
It is uncertain whoexactly the Tritopatoreswere, but they may havebeen representatives ofthe souls of the dead,and been worshipped inan ancestor cult.
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In summer, there are
often concerts in the
courtyard.Year-round,
there are frequent
guided tours free of
charge, but times
and English-language
availability vary. Call
ahead to find out
what’s on and when.
The museum plans
to open a café on the
premises by summer
2006. Until it does,
head to one of the
cafés or restaurants
on Plateia Kolonaki.
• Vasilissis Sofias 22 • Map P3• 210 723 2178• www.culture.gr• Metro: Evangelismos• 8am–3pm Tue–Sun• Adm €4
From the fall of Rome in 476 to the fall of Constantinoplein 1453, the Byzantine Empire dominated the Mediter-ranean region. The mysterious and wealthy OrthodoxChurch was the most important political and artisticinfluence in Byzantium, leaving behind a vast legacy.This world-renowned collection embraces 15,000 objects taken from that fascinating period.
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Top 10 Exhibits
1 Orpheus Playing a Lyre2 Shepherd Carrying a Lamb3 Icon of Archangel Michael 4 Manuscript Collection 5 Mosaic Icon of the Virgin
(The Episkepsis) Treasuryof Mytilene
6 Precious EcclesiasticalArtifacts
7 Wall Painting from theChurch of Episkopi
8 Double-Sided Icon ofSt George
9 Treasury of Mytilene0 Temporary Exhibitions
Museum façade andcourtyard
Byzantine Museum
Orpheus Playing a Lyre
Orpheus (above) is surroundedby animals, creating anallegory of Christ and hisfollowers. This transmutationof ancient pagan myths intothe new religion ofChristianity was anessential ele-ment ofByzantineart.
ShepherdCarrying a Lamb
This 4th-century marblesculpture is also a Christ-ian allegory with paganroots. Though the shepherdis meant to be Christ, theimage is taken directlyfrom an Archaic sculpturefound on the Acropolis ofa man bringing a calf tobe sacrificially slaughteredto the goddess Athena(see image on p10).
Icon of ArchangelMichael
Set in a glowing field ofgold, this 14th-century icon(left) from Constantinopledepicts the Archangel with asceptre and an orb, symbolicof the terrestrial world.
Key
Upper Floor
Lower Floor
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Mosaic icon of the Virgin
(The Episkepsis)This 13th Centurymosaic (right) showsthe Virgin and Child,with a goldbackground symbolisingdivine light. Mosaicicons are very rare: Onlyabout 40 are known toexist, all of which, likethis one, originate fromConstantinople.
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Note: At the time of writing, the museum was being renovated,and the positioning of exhibits may be liable to change
Aristotle’s LyceumBuilding plans for theneighbouring site were shelved whenexcavators discoveredancient ruins identifiedas the Lyceum ofAristotle (the school thephilosopher founded tocompete with Plato’sAcademy). The site hasbeen taken over by theByzantine Museum,with plans to open it tothe public by 2007.
Wall Painting from the Church
of EpiskopiExecuted between the10th and 13th-centuries,these paintings depictbiblical scenes in warm,muted hues. They aredisplayed in the positionsas they would have beenin the church, which wasbased on a ‘cross insquare’ plan with a domeand Narthex.
Treasury of Mytilene
A collection of 6th-century silvervessels, gold jewelleryand coins, discovered ina sunken ship off theisland of Mytilene(Lesvos). Scholarsbelieve the valuableswere brought to theisland to be hidden, andwere never recoveredby their owners.
TemporaryExhibitions
Take the time to lookbeyond the permanentcollection to the TemporaryExhibitions Wing. TheOrthodox Church worksin co-operation with insti-tutions around the worldto borrow and exhibit rarelyseen Byzantine artifacts,such as items from thefamous Monastery of StCatherine on Mount Sinai.
ManuscriptCollection
The highlight of thiscollection is a 14th-century imperialdocument (below) issuedby Emperor Andronicus
Double-SidedIcon of St
GeorgeLarge, double-sidedicons were extremelyrare in Byzantium. This13th-century example isespecially unusual as itis carved in threedimensions and depictsthe full body.
Precious Ecclesiastical
ArtifactsThis case contains a late14th-century wooden crosscovered with silver andembellished with smallsteatite icons, a 10th-century copper chalice,and a 14th-century silkstole decorated with holyfigures embroidered inmetalic and silk thread.
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II. The top of the scrollbears a miniatureshowing the emperorhimself handing adocument to Christ,while at the bottom, the emperor’s signatureappears in red ink.
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Though perfectly
safe during the day,
the paths of Filo-
pappos Hill are best
avoided after dark.
There is a pleasant
café called the Loum-
bardiaris in the trees
just behind the Church
of Agios Dimitrios
Loumbardiaris.
• Enter from DionysiouAreopagitou (Map C5)• Map B6• www.culture.gr• Metro: Akropoli• Free• Dora Stratou DanceTheatre: performanceslate May–late Sep:9:30pm Tue–Sat,8:30pm Sun. Ticketsfrom theatre,or call 210324 4395
The pine-covered slopes of Filopappos Hill offer apleasantly shaded maze of paths leading throughmonuments marking centuries of history. Known as“the hill of muses” in antiquity, countless poets havedrawn inspiration here. On the first day of Lent,the hill is swarmed with hundreds of Athenians,who traditionally gather here to fly kites.
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Top 10 Sights
1 Hilltop View2 Filopappos Monument3 Socrates’ Prison4 Church of Agios Dimitrios
Loumbardiaris5 The Pnyx6 The Deme of Koile7 Church of Agia Marina8 Old National Observatory 9 Hill of the Nymphs0 Dora Stratou Dance Theatre
View from Filopappos Hill
Filopappos Hill
Hilltop ViewYou may not feel you
deserve such a jaw-droppingview after such an easy,shaded walk. But the hilltopdirectly overlooks the Acro-polis and all of southernAthens stretching to the sea.This was once a favouritevantage-point for generals –and it’s equally appealing tophotographers today.
FilopapposMonument
Roman senator Gaius JuliusAntiochus Filopappos was a
lover of Classical Greekculture. He took his
retirement in Athensand died here in aboutAD 114. The Greeksbuilt this marble tomb
and monument tothe senator, showinghim as an Atheniancitizen, surroundedby his royal Romanfamily. Its partiallydestroyed form(left) looks acrossto the Acropolis.
Socrates’ PrisonThis is believed to be
the cave where Socrates(see p36) was imprisoned,having been condemned todeath. His disciples sat withhim as he drank the hem-lock that dispatched him.
Church of Agios Dimitrios
LoumbardiarisIn 1648, an Ottomancommander planned tobombard this charmingByzantine church. Butlightning struck his can-non, giving the churchthe name of “SaintDimitri the Bombadier”.
Church of Agios Dimitrios
Loumbardiaris
Filopappos Hill
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The 1687 SiegeDuring an attempt toseize the Ottoman-occupied Acropolis, theVenetians garrisonedthemselves on Filo-pappos Hill, the perfectstrategic location toshell their target. Tooperfect, unfortunately –a shell hit the Parthenon,where the Turks storedtheir gunpowder, andthe ensuing explosionseverely damaged theAcropolis’s prizedtemple and sculptures.
The PnyxIf Athens is the cradleof democracy, this spot isits exact birthplace. AfterAthens became a demo-cracy in 508 BC, the first
ever democratic congressmet here weekly, and the
greatest orators held forth.The limestone theatre, cutinto the hill (right), accom-
modated over 10,000.
The Deme ofKoile
This ancient road leadsfrom the Acropolis toPiraeus, passingbetween Filopappos Hilland the Pnyx to followthe course of the LongWalls (5th century BC). Itwas a two-lane road,8–12 m (26–40 ft) wide,with anti-slip grooves. A500-m (1600-ft) stretchhas been excavated.
Church of Agia Marina
Agia Marina is associatedwith childbirth and sickchildren, and so pregnantwomen come here andslip down a carved slideto ensure a safe delivery.In the past, mothersbrought sick children hereto spend the night. Acolourful festival honoursMarina each July.Old National
ObservatoryGreece’s oldest researchcentre is housed in abeautiful Neo-Classicalbuilding (left). The centremonitors astronomy,weather, and especiallythe earthquakes thatoccasionally rattle Athens.
Hill of theNymphs
In ancient times, Greeksbelieved Filopappos wasinhabited by the muses ofart, music and poetry. Andthis smaller hill was thedwelling place of nymphs– the female spirits oftrees, fields and springs.
Dora StratouDance Theatre
Dora Stratou’s troupetravels the land, learningand keeping alive hun-dreds of regional dances.Here, they present theintricate moves that havebeen part of Greekculture for centuries.
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To get the best light
for photographs of
the column capitals,
come between 3
and 4pm.
For a bite to eat, head
across the street to
Zappeion Gardens to
either elegant Aigli
café and restaurant
or one of the handful
of other cafés spread
through the park.
• Vas. Olgas at Amalias• Map L5• 210 922 6330• www.culture.gr• Summer: 8:30am–7pm daily; winter:8:30am–3pm daily• Adm €2, or includedwith Acropolis ticket
The majestic temple to the ruler of the pantheon was the largest on mainlandGreece. Inside stood two colossal gold and ivory statues: one of the god, andone of the Roman Emperor Hadrian. Though the temple’s construction began in515 BC, political turmoil delayed its completion nearly 700 years. To thankHadrian for finishing it, in AD 131 the Athenians built a two-storey arch nextto the temple, whose inscription announces Hadrian’s claim on the city.
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1 Temple of Olympian Zeus2 Hadrian’s Arch3 Ruins of Houses4 Themistoklean Gates5 Roman Baths6 Valerian Wall7 Temple of Apollo Delphinios
and Artemis Delphinia8 Law Court at the Delphinion9 Temple of Kronos and Rhea0 Temple of Zeus Panhellenios
Remaining columns of theTemple of Olympian Zeus
Temple of Olympian Zeus
Temple ofOlympian Zeus
Zeus had long been worship-ped on this site, and there
was at least one othertemple to him before thisone. Sixteen magnificent
columns survive from the original 104.
Hadrian’s ArchEmperor Hadrian had the
west side of this arch (below)inscribed “This is Athens,the ancient city of Theseus”,and the east side “This isthe city of Hadrian and notof Theseus”, distinguishingthe cities of ancient legendand modern reality.
Ruins of HousesAncient pipes, founda-
tions, and domesticobjects show that peoplelived and built houseshere between the 5thcentury BC and 2nd cen-tury AD – the whole timeit took to build the temple.
ThemistokleanGates
Around the site areremains of the wall builtby political leaderThemistokles in 479 BC,to defend Athens fromcontinuing onslaughts bythe Persians.
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Why Did it Takeso Long to Build?The tyrant Peisistratosstarted the temple in515 BC to occupy therebellious Athenians.After his fall, the demo-cratic Athenians refusedto finish what they sawas a monument to ahated tyrant. In 174 BC,King Antiochus IV ofEpiphanes took over thework, but it stopped withhis death in 163 BC.When Hadrian came inAD 124, he finally sawthe temple completed.
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ruins of “Hadrianopolis”,the first structures ofHadrian’s new city, arethese complex-lookingfoundations (left), actu-ally the best-preservedRoman bath house inAthens. It once had acoloured mosaic floor.
Valerian WallThe Roman emperor Valerian
commissioned this wall (below)in the third century AD. Many of the temples it surrounded weredemolished to provide marble for the wall. Having been temporarilyclosed to the public, it reopenedin 2004.
Law Court at theDelphinion
Now mostly in ruins, thislaw court, from 500 BC, isthought to be on the siteof the palace of mythicalking Aegeus, the fatherof Theseus (see p39).
Temple of ApolloDelphinios and
Artemis DelphiniaThe temple was built tothe god-and-goddess sib-lings Apollo and Artemis,celebrating them in theform of dolphins.
Temple of Kronosand Rhea
This temple to Zeus’sparents was built in the5th century BC; now onlythe foundations remain.Rhea saved Zeus fromKronos, and Zeus thentook dominion of the uni-verse as ruler of the gods.
Temple of ZeusPanhellenios
Hadrian promoted thecult of Zeus Panhellenios(“ruler of all the Greeks”)and associated himselfwith the god. Offers to godand emperor were madein this temple, later demol-ished for the Valerian wall.
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Left Ancient Athens Right German soldiers at the Acropolis in World War II
Moments in History
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Birth of AthensThe Acropolis was first in-
habited in Neolithic times (around3000 BC), and began to take onthe form of a city when it wasfortified by the Mycenaeans(inhabitants of the southeasternGreek mainland) in about 1400 BC.
Golden AgeThe 6th and 5th centuries
BC saw the city-state developinto a colonial power. UnderPerikles (495–429 BC) Athensenjoyed its greatest period ofbuilding, when the Parthenon,Erechtheion and Temple of Nikewere erected. Cultural andintellectual life flourished untilSparta’s defeat of Athens in thePeloponnesian War (431–404 BC).
Roman Athens Roman rule began in 146 BC
and lasted five centuries. Athen-ians initially maintained good re-lations with their rulers, but in 86 BCa potential move towards Athenianindependence was brutally crushedby the Romans. Emperor Hadrian(AD 76–138) remained a greatadmirer of Greek culture, however,and together with Greek scholarHerodes Atticus he set up variousbuilding schemes, including thegreat theatre (see p9).
Byzantine PeriodWhen Roman territory was
divided between East and Westin AD 395, Greece fell within theeast, and subsequently becamepart of the Byzantine Empire.
The pagan philosophical schoolswere closed and many templeswere rebuilt as churches.
Ottomans Take AthensThe Ottoman Turks took
Athens in 1458, and the citybecame a provincial backwater.After bombarding the Parthenon,the Venetians held the city brieflyin 1687. Then, during the 18thcentury, English and French art-ists and writers visited Athens aspart of the Grand Tour, signallingits reawakening but also walkingoff with many ancient artworks.
War of Independence In 1821 Greeks rose up
against Ottoman domination,initially alone and then, as of 1827,with the aid of Britain, France andRussia. Although the war endedin 1829, the Ottomans held theAcropolis until 1834, when the newking, Otto I, entered the city.Athens became capital of thenew Greek state and was rebuilt,largely in Neo-Classical style.
World War IIMussolini declared war on
Greece in October 1940, and theGerman army entered Athens inApril 1941, raising the swastikaover the Acropolis. The Third Reichused the Hotel Grande Bretagne(p140) as wartime headquarters.
Post World War IIAt the close of WWII, with
its political future uncertain,Greece fell into civil war. The US
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For Athens’ great philosophers and writers see pp36–7
Top 10 AtheniansAthenaIn Ancient Greek mythology,
Athena (see also pp38–9)became the patron of Athens.
TheseusLegendary Athenian king
who represented the qualitiesof youth, beauty, intelligence,good fortune and heroism.
DracoIn the 7th century BC,
Draco instituted the first Codeof Law: even trivial crimesincurred the death penalty,hence the term draconian.
Solon Draco’s laws were made
less severe by Solon (c.638–559 BC); he also extendedcitizenship to the lower classes.
CleisthenesStatesman of around 570–
507 BC, who abolished the ruleof the aristocracy, replacing itwith a democratic Assembly.
Themistokles This general (c.527–460
BC) championed the navy as aforce to expand the empire.
Perikles Perikles (c.495–429 BC) got
poorer citizens to attend theAssembly, beautified Athensand extended the empire.
Aspasia In the 5th century BC, cour-
tesan Aspasia gained accep-tance in Athens’ male-dominatedintellectual and political circles.
Demosthenes The greatest Greek orator
(384–322 BC) overcame aspeech impediment by talkingwith pebbles in his mouth.
Melina Mercouri Much-loved actress (1925–
94) who opposed the 1967–74junta, became Minister ofCulture and initiated the Euro-pean City of Culture scheme.
began pouring economic andmilitary aid into the country, buton the proviso that the CommunistLeft would not gain power. In the1950s and ’60s, Athens sawrapid industrialization, massmigration from rural areas andthe growth of sprawling suburbs.
Military DictatorshipIn April 1967, a coup d’etat
led by Georgios Papadopoulossignalled the beginning of a seven-year military junta. Studentprotests on 17 November 1973were violently put down by themilitary, who stormed Athens’Polytechnic and killed many. Butthe regime fell in 1974, followinga failed attempt to take Cyprus.
Modern-Day AthensGreece joined the EEC (now
the EU) in 1981, and in the sameyear Andreas Papandreou becamethe country’s first Socialist primeminister. In 1985, Athens wasthe first European City of Culture.Hosting the highly successful2004 Olympics means that thecity now has improved transport,sports and cultural facilities.
Raising the flag of Greek Independence
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Left Plato’s Banquet Centre Euripides Right Aristotle
Philosophers and Writers
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Homer c.700 BCNext to nothing is known
about the bard who compiled thetales of The Iliad and TheOdyssey. These poems, whichwere kept alive by oral tradition,are arguably the greatest andmost influential in history.
Aeschylus 535–456 BCWhen the “Father of Tragedy”
began writing, theatre was in itsinfancy. He brought a wealth ofcharacters, powerful narratives,grandeur of language, and asweeping vision of humansworking out a plan of cosmicjustice to works such asPrometheus Unbound andthe Oresteia.
Sophocles 496–406 BC
Only seven of Sophocles’plays survive, but hisreputation rests securely
on three: Antigone, Oedipus atColonus, and Oedipus Rex. Thelast of these, the story of a kingbound hopelessly by fate to murderhis father and marry his mother,is the greatest masterpiece ofGreek tragedy.
Euripides 484–407 BCEuripides was the last of the
great triumvirate of Greektragedians. He wrote radical re-interpretations of the ancientmyths in which humans boretheir suffering without referenceto the gods or fates. His mostfamous plays, The Bacchae andMedea, are about mothersmurdering their children.
Socrates 470–399 BCThough Socrates himself
wrote nothing, his teachings, re-corded in the writings of historiansand especially his pupil Plato,have earned him the title of theforerunner of Western philosophy.At the height of the Golden Ageof Athens, the original market-place philosopher debated thegreat meanings in the Agora, andwas eventually tried and put todeath for corrupting the Athenian
youth (see p30).
Aristophanes447–385 BC
The greatest comic play-wright of Greece was a
welcome breath of freshair after the age of thegreat tragedians.Aristophanes’ raunchy,
Socrates
Homer
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For the great moments in the history of Greek theatre see pp64–5
Top 10 TomesThe Iliad, HomerOne small episode in the
Trojan War, told in the greatestepic ever written.
The Odyssey, HomerOdysseus’s adventures with
sirens, nymphs and Cyclops onhis way home from Troy.
The Oresteia, AeschylusBrilliant trilogy about the
the House of Atreus, themost dysfunctional family inancient Greece.
The Theban Tragedies,Sophocles
Terrible events unfold whenOedipus kills his father andmarries his mother. Read on avisit to Delphi and Thebes.
Republic, PlatoStill the blueprint for the
best way to run a government.
Constitution ofAthens, Aristotle
A work that marries the demo-cratic political structure ofAthens with the architecturalstructure of the Agora.
History of thePeloponnesian War,
ThucydidesMonth-by-month, blow-by-blow account of the conflictby an Athenian officer.
The Histories,Herodotus
Compelling reportage of theGreeks’ fight for freedomagainst the Persians, as toldby the “Father of History”.
The Guide to Greece,Pausanias
Pausanias, the world’s firsttravel writer, recorded obser-vations from all over Greecein his 2nd-century journey.
Zorba the Greek,Nikos Kazantzakis
The quintessential modernGreek novel.
hilarious Lysistrata, in which thewomen of warring Sparta andAthens refuse to sleep with theirhusbands until they stop fighting,is one of the greatest anti-warmessages of all time.
Plato 428–348 BCIf Socrates was the fore-
runner of Western philosophy,Plato was the foundation. Hisworks, from his early dialoguesreprising Socrates’ teachings, tolater masterworks such as theseminal Republic, comprised thebackbone of every major intel-lectual movement to follow.
Aristotle 384–322 BCAfter studying with Plato,
Aristotle tutored Alexander theGreat. He later set up theLyceum, a competitor to Plato’sAcademy. His Poetics is still oneof the most important works ofliterary criticism, and hisNichomachean Ethics among thegreatest treatises on ethics.
Nikos Kazantzakis1883–1957
Millions have been drawn to thestrange, joyous, bittersweet spiritof modern Greece as depicted inKazantzakis’ most famous work,Zorba the Greek. Darker in moodis the Last Temptation of Christand best of all is his audaciouscontinuation of the fundamentalGreek tale: The Odyssey: AModern Sequel.
George Seferis 1900–71Greece’s first Nobel Laureate
was born in Smyrna, which waslater claimed by Turkey, and hislyrical poetry is inspired by his-tory and feelings of exile. His workalso relates Greece’s Classicalpast to its raw present, as inMythistorema, a series of poemsthat draw from The Odyssey.
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Left Perseus killing Medusa Centre Athena Right Zeus and Hera
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The Birth of AthenaWhen Zeus impregnated his
mistress Metis, he was told shewould have a son who would de-throne him. As a preventativemeasure, he swallowed Metiswhole, but the unborn child con-tinued to grow in Zeus’s head. Afternine months, Hephaestus splitopen the god’s head with an axe,and out sprung the girl goddessAthena, already in full armour.
The Naming of AthensAthena and Poseidon, god of
the sea, competed for patronageof the great city in Attica byoffering their best gifts. Poseidonstruck his trident into the rock ofthe Acropolis and out gushedsalt water. But Athena offeredthe olive tree, and the Olympiangods awarded her the city.
The Birth of ErichtoniusHephaestus tried to rape
Athena, but only managed tospill his seed on her leg. Athenabrushed it to the ground, whereit grew into the baby Erichtonius(“earth-born”). Athena raised himto become a king, and he isconsidered the first ancestor ofall Athenians.
The Rape of PhilomelaErichtonius’s son Pandion
had two daughters, Procne andPhilomela. When Procne’s husbandTereus raped Philomela and cut outher tongue, Procne took revengeby serving the flesh of their sonto Tereus. The sisters then turned
for help to the gods, who madePhilomela into a swallow, Tereusinto a hoopoe and Procne into anightingale (which cries “Tereu”).
The Trial of Orestes Orestes, after murdering his
mother, Klytemnestra (to avengeher murder of his father, Agam-memnon), was pursued to Athensby the Furies (underworld god-desses of vengeance). Athenadecreed that instead of beingkilled, Orestes should stand trial.He was acquitted, and the trialmarked a turning point in Athens,from blood feuds to rule of law.
Athena and ArachneAs goddess of spinning and
weaving, Athena decided to helpa poor but talented weaver calledArachne. Arachne won great ad-miration but took all the praise with-out crediting the goddess, and soAthena challenged her protégéto a weaving contest. Arachne’swork depicted the inappropriate
Theseus killing the Minotaur
Athenian Legends
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Gods and MonstersZeusThe Pantheon’s supreme
god ruled the skies andfathered hundreds of heroeswith his supernatural libido.
PoseidonThe god of the sea was
Zeus’s brother – and some-times his greatest rival.
AthenaZeus’s daughter was a
virgin warrior goddess ofwisdom and philosophy. Shewas also goddess of weavingand patron of Athens.
ApolloThe handsome god of
music and poetry presidedover the Muses.
ArtemisApollo’s twin sister was
goddess of the moon and thehunt, and remained a virgin.
AphroditeVoluptuous Aphrodite was
Artemis’s polar opposite – thetemperamental goddess oflove had dozens of affairs.
The MinotaurCrete’s Queen Pasiphae
conceived this bull-headed,human-bodied monster with abull sent by Poseidon.
The CyclopsThe most famous of these
one-eyed giants is Polyphemus,the monster whom Odysseusblinded in The Odyssey.
The SirensThe beautiful sirens with
their bewitching songs nearlylured Odysseus’s sailors totheir deaths on a rocky shore.
MedusaThe gaze of this snake-
headed gorgon turned men tostone. Perseus defeated heronly with the help of Athena’sgleaming shield, in which hecould safely see his foe.
love affairs of the gods; Athena,furious with indignation, turnedArachne into the first spider.
Theseus’s Arrival in AthensTheseus, son of Athens’ King
Aegeus, was secretly raised farfrom court. At 16, armed with asword left by his father, Theseusleft for Athens, en route slayingdozens of monsters terrorizingAttica. He became Athens’ great-est king and hero.
Theseus Kills the MinotaurAfter a dispute between
Aegeus and his brother Minos,King of Crete, Minos demandedAthens send regular tributes of14 youths and maidens, whowere sacrificed to the monstrousMinotaur. One year, Theseusasked to be sent and, with thehelp of Minos’s daughter, Ariadne,he killed the Minotaur, savinghundreds of future Athenians.
The Death of AegeusTheseus had told his father
that if his quest to kill the Mino-taur was successful, he’d changehis ship’s sails from black to whiteon his return. But, after all theexcitement, he forgot. WhenAegeus, watching out for theship from Sounio, saw the blacksails, he was stricken with griefand plunged to his death in thesea (now called the Aegean).
Perseus Kills MedusaPerseus was the son of Zeus
and the maiden Danae. The tyrantPolydectes violently desired Danae,but Perseus promised him thesnake-infested head of Medusain exchange for his mother’ssafety. Perseus slew Medusawith Athena’s help and, upon hisreturn, turned Polydectes tostone; Athena then put Medusa’shead on her shield.
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Left Relief depicting a trireme Right Theatrical mask
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Olympic Games The first recorded games
were staged on the plains ofOlympia in 776 BC. Dedicated toZeus, they lasted one day andfeatured running and wrestling.In 472 BC – with the addition ofboxing, the pancration (anotherform of hand-to-handcombat), horse racing andthe pentathlon(sprinting, long-jump,javelin, discus andwrestling) – the eventwas extended tofive days and heldevery four years.
AthenianTrireme
Masterpieces ofancient shipbuilding(c.700–500 BC),triremes were the key toAthens’ naval strength.Approximately 40 m (130 ft)long and 5 m (15 ft) wide,they were noted for greatspeed – up to 12 knots perhour. The boats were powered by170 oarsmen seated on threetiers. Only one tier rowed at atime, alternating short shifts sothey did not exhaust themselvesall at once. The vessels werealso equipped with sails, whichwere lowered during battle.
Democracy Demokratia (“power to the
people”) as a form of governmentwas first introduced in Athensunder Cleisthenes (570–507 BC).
All free, male, adult citizens ofAthenian birth were entitled toattend the Assembly – whichmet on the Pnyx Hill – and thusparticipate in political decision-making. The Assembly gatheredabout 40 times a year, and 6,000citizens needed to be present to
make a vote valid.
TheatreThe earliest form
of theatre can be tracedback to an ancient
Greek pagan ritual,which developedinto an annualdrama competitionin the 6th century
BC (see p64). Playswere performed
outside in daylight inpurpose-built amphi-
theatres, and actors worea range of masks to indicatedifferent characters. The old-est plays emphasize valuessuch as Greek patriotism,reverence to the gods,
liberty and hospitality.
Pythagoras’s Theorem “The square of the hypoten-
use of a right-angled triangle isequal to the sum of the squaresof the other two sides.” Thistheorem, discovered by thephilosopher and mathematicianPythagoras (582–500 BC) was amajor scientific breakthrough,which led to extraordinaryadvances in mathematics,geometry and astronomy.
Amphora
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Greek Inventions
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Hippocratic Oath Attributed to the
founding father of medi-cine, the Greek physicianHippocrates (460–377 BC),this oath prohibits doc-tors from performingabortions, euthanasia orunnecessary surgery,and requires them topromise to abstain fromsexual relations with anypatient, and to keepany information divulgedto them confidential. The oathwas taken by doctors until 1948,when the World Medical Associ-ation (considering references toancient Greek gods and god-desses somewhat obsolete)produced a modern restatementcalled the Declaration of Geneva.
CatapultInvented by Dionysius the Elder
of Syracuse (430–367 BC), the cata-pult can hurl heavy objects orshoot arrows over large distances.Having seized power in Sicily,Dionysius set about driving outthe Carthaginians, who ruled alarge part of the island. Thanks inpart to the catapult, he wassuccessful, making Syracuse thestrongest power in Greek Italy.The Romans later perfected hisinvention, adding wheels tocatapults to make them mobile.
Archimedes’Screw
The Syracusan-bornGreek mathematician
Archimedes (287–212BC) invented an ingenious
water pump, which becameknown as Archimedes’
screw. It consisted of atube coiled around arod, which is set at anangle, with the bottomend in water and ahandle at the top.
When the handle is rotated, theentire device turns and the tubecollects water which is thustransported upwards.
Greek Fire This was the secret weapon
of the Byzantine Empire, usedagainst enemy ships. Greek Firewas a highly flammable, jelly-likesubstance, which was blastedthrough bronze tubes mountedon the prows of Byzantinegalleys, and could not beextinguished by water. It wasfirst employed to repel an Arabfleet attacking Constantinople in673, and then successfully usedin combat until the Empire’s fallin 1453. To this day scientists areunsure of its exact formula butthink that it probably consistedof liquid petroleum, sulphur,naphtha and quicklime.
Pap SmearSince 1943,
cervical cancer hasbeen detected usingthe Pap smear test,a gynaecologicalprocedure namedafter its inventor,the Athens-educatedGreek-Americandoctor, GeorgePapanicolaou(1883–1962). Theatre of Dionysus
Bust of Pythagoras
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Cycladic,3200–2200 BC
The prehistoric Cycladiccivilization flourished on theislands of Naxos, Paros,Amorgos, Santorini andKeros (which form arough circle in theAegean, hence the name)for 1,000 years beforemysteriously disappearing. Itleft behind hundreds ofmarble figures: most areelegant, angular, minimalistfemale figures, probably usedin a goddess or fertility cult.
Minoan,2000–1400 BC
The Minoans of Crete weresensual, social, nature-lovingand matriarchal. Ceramics arepainted with flowing linesbased on natural motifs. Fluid-lined frescoes depict priestessesand animals. Most exciting arethe faïence sculptures ofvoluptuous goddesses wieldingsnakes, and the fantasticallylight, delicate gold jewellery.
Mycenaean, 1500–1300 BCThe art of this martial,
mainland culture was somewhatinfluenced by the Minoans. Butfundamentally, they were different, focused on war, orderand acquisition, especially ofgold. Their palaces housedhoards of embossed-goldswords, daggers, and cups, golddeath-masks and pots paintedwith warrior images.
Geometric,8th–7th Century BC
Geometric art emerged from adark age with vases painted
with angular designs, andabstract, triangular-
rectilinear human forms.The greatest of these isthe giant 8th-century BC
funerary vase in the NationalArchaeological Museum,where you can also see thefirst “Greek key” pattern.
Archaic, Late 7th–5thCentury BC
The beginning of monumentalGreek art, with the first marbletemples and sculptures. Theseearliest sculptures of youngmen and women, called koroi,and made for religious pur-poses, were heavily
influenced by Egyptian art: stiffand still, with muscles and facialfeatures carved mostly asdecorations to the form.
Classical,500–320 BC
The Classical move-ment saw lifelike,naturalistic sculp-tures, balancingvibrancy and idealism.Temples built accord-ing to brilliant math-ematical proportionsrose, adorned withtradition-shatteringsculptural reliefs thatseemed to break outfrom the marble,
Female
Cycladic
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The Moschophorus
(Calf-Bearer),
Archaic period
Artistic Styles
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Top 10 Artistic TermsKouros/KoreThe first monumental
sculptures in Greek art: akouros was a youth, a kore amaiden. The plural is koroi.
CapitalThe top of a column. There
are three main Greek forms:Doric, a simple slab; Ionic, acarved scroll; and Corinthian,an acanthus-leaf pattern.
CaryatidsSculptures of women that
acted as columns. The mostfamous are at the Erechtheionat the Acropolis.
PedimentThe triangular gable on the
façade of a temple where reliefsculptures are often carved.
FriezeThe horizontal band running
below the pediment of a tem-ple, carved with floral, geomet-ric or other decorative motifs.
KraterA large ceramic or bronze
bowl for mixing wine and water,often beautifully decorated.
Black-FigureThe earliest type of Greek
vase-painting: black figuresare etched into red ceramicglaze, creating a somewhatstiff, formal image.
Red-FigureA revolutionary method of
Classical vase-painting: theoutlines of figures are paintedon with red glaze, creatingflowing, active images.
FrescoA painting made directly
into wet plaster, creating artthat is one with walls.
IconByzantine and Christian
images of saints, believed tobe imbued with holy power,often painted with gold.
many created by thesculptor Pheidias, acentral figure ofAthens’ Golden Age.
Hellenistic,320 BC–1st
Century ADClassical sculpture grew ripe anddecadent, in part influenced bythe new Hellenistic cities in theOrient, part of Alexander theGreat’s empire. The sculptorLysippos defined the new phasewith sensuous subjects such asAphrodite, Pan and Dionysus inexaggerated, twisting movement.
Byzantine, 324–1453Byzantine art was almost
completely focused on depictingChristian images. Rich, colourfulmosaics, frescoes, icons andreligious objects were made withvaluable materials, especiallygold, and intricate, skilfullycrafted methods, which conveyedthe wealth of the empire.
Ottoman Influence,1453–1821
Under the Turks, cultural activitiesand art were stifled, but folk artspersisted, incorporating andtransforming some aspects fromthe conqueror’s culture, includingintricate silver jewellery andmetalwork and colourful rugs,tapestries and embroideries.
Neo-Classical,1821–Early 20th Century
After defeating their Ottomanconquerors, Greece began re-building itself, turning to the well-proportioned forms of their greatClassical forebears. Many ofmodern Athens’ most importantbuildings were constructed onthis model, notably the Universityof Athens, the Academy ofAthens and the National Library.
Hellenistic
Bronze head
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Acropolis If you’re only in
Athens for a day, this isthe one sight to see.The temples, especiallythe great Parthenon,built to honour Athena,have been the domi-nating influence inWestern architecturefor over 2,000 years.They continue to astonish andinspire. (See pp8–9 and 69.)
New Acropolis MuseumThe museum, not yet
completed, is being built over alate-Roman and early Byzantinesettlement. The site is packedwith houses and at least onefountain and reservoir, rare in theparched city. A walkway throughthe site and glass floors in the
museum will allow visitorsto see all angles of it, a
fascinating juxtapositionto the earlierarchaeological findswithin the museum.(See pp10–11 and 69.)
Temple ofOlympian Zeus
The colossal temple toZeus was commissioned in 515BC and took nearly 700 years tocomplete, during which timemany other buildings – temples,baths and a law court – sprangup around it. (See pp32–3.)
Syntagma Metro Station In the late 1990s, Athens
undertook its biggest archaeo-logical dig ever: excavating along-delayed metro – essentialfor hosting the Olympics. Manyfeared that the tightly scheduleddig would endanger what laybeneath. The Syntagma metrostation was a brilliant compro-mise: though modern and gleam-ing, one glass wall looks directlyon to the site, with detailedexplanations of its ancient layers.(See p95.)
Roman Forum and Towerof the Winds
One of the most interestinglylayered sites. Buildings andremains include the ingeniousTower of the Winds from 50 BC,the first-century AD Romanforum, and a mosque built by theOttomans. (See pp20–21.)Herodes Atticus Theatre, the Acropolis
Archaeological Sites
Tower of the Winds
Hadrian’s LibraryHadrian built this luxurious
Corinthian-columned building inAD 132. Most of the space wasactually a showy marblecourtyard, with gardens and apool. There were also lecturerooms, music rooms and atheatre. The library itself was onthe east side, where you can seemarble slots for manuscriptscrolls. (See p80.)
AgoraThe Agora, the marketplace
where philosophers held forth,tradesmen bickered and states-men hammered out the terms ofthe first democracy, was the city’sheart and soul for 600 years. Thisis one of the most hands-onsites in Athens and includes theTemple of Hephaestus, the best-preserved ancient Greek temple.(See pp12–13.)
KerameikosThis fascinating site around
ancient Athens’ walls should notbe missed. It contains evidenceof all the activities that take placeat a city’s edge: tombs (raisedcircular mounds for war heroes,pompous marble statues for greatstatesmen), temples, importantroads, pottery workshops, and abrothel. It’s also a shady oasis inthe congested city centre. (Seepp26–7.)
KesarianiThis 11th-century
monastery on thecypress-clad slopes ofMount Hymettosmakes a wonderfulday trip (best reachedby car). The chapel,dedicated to thePresentation of theVirgin, is built atopClassical ruins, its
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(enamelled) masonry and late17th-century paintings. The ram’s-head fountain is said to cureinfertility. (See p49.) d Map T2• 210 723 6619 • 8:30am–3pm Tue–Sun
Temple of PoseidonThe great marble shrine to
the sea god, situated on CapeSounio’s peak and surrounded bythe Aegean Sea, is among themost stunning sights in all ofGreece. It was built in the 5thcentury BC. British poet LordByron was one of many who fellunder its spell 2,400 years later,composing poetry in its honourand carving his name on a pillar.Come at sunset, just before itcloses, for a spectacular andunforgettable view. d 70 km (44 miles) south of Athens on the Sounio Road • Map T3 • 2292 039 363• 9am–sunset daily • Adm
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NationalArchaeo-
logical MuseumOne of the world’smost importantmuseums, jam-packedwith a jaw-droppingarray of treasuresfrom the ancient andClassical Greek civili-zations. Don’t miss the exquisitefrescoes of 17th-century BCThira, and the golden hoard ofsplendid prehistoric Mycenae.(See pp16–17.)
Agora MuseumThe fascinating displays of
finds from the city’s ancient mar-ketplace focus on objects used inthe workings of the first demo-cracy, including the declarationinscribed on marble that a govern-ment of democracy, not tyranny,was to rule. (See pp14–15.)
Museum of Greek Musical Instruments
Greek musical instruments are farmore varied than the bouzouki
that plucked out the theme toZorba the Greek. The Greek music-al tradition, though heavilyinfluenced by Turkey and Asia,has filtered through the uniqueHellenic sensibility. The array ofbeautiful instruments includescarved Byzantine lyres, ivorylutes and gypsy flutes. (See p70.)
New Acropolis Museum Scheduled to open in 2007,
this beautifully designedmuseum is being built partly togive a fitting new home to thefamed marble sculptures of theAcropolis, and partly as a politicalgambit to force Britain to returnthe Parthenon marbles, whichcurrently reside in the BritishMuseum. (See pp10–11.)
Museum of Greek Folk ArtA rich collection of Greek
folk art from 1650 to the presentday, including traditional tapes-tries, embroideries, costumes,shadow puppets, and not-to-be-missed sumptuous filigreedjewellery. Another highlight is anoriginal room full of frescoes byinternationally renowned folkartist Theofilos Khatzmikhail,Agora Museum
National Archaeological Museum
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transported in its entirety fromhis home on the island of Lesvos.(See p70.)
Benaki MuseumFollow the progress of Greek
art and culture through this first-rate collection from the eras ofantiquity to the mid-20th century.Walk through excellently present-ed displays in the gorgeous Neo-Classical mansion of the Benakifamily. (See pp22–3.)
Museum of Cycladic ArtThe Cycladic island civilization
of the Aegean flourished at thesame time as the early Egyptiansand Mesopotamians, but producedsomething very different: strangelyelegant, stylized marble goddess-cult figurines. These were thefirst pieces in the centuries-longtradition of Greek art that was tofollow; this is the world’s largestcollection. (See pp18–19.)
Byzantine MuseumYet another of the top
museums in the world. TheByzantine Museum owns over15,000 objects from the greatestByzantine churches and mona-steries worldwide,including sculpture,manuscripts, icons,frescoes and precious, eye-strainingly intricategold, silver and gem-encrusted ecclesi-astical objects. (See pp28–9.)
War MuseumA lengthy display
of warfare in Greece,beginning with pre-historic battle-axes,running throughAlexander the Great’sbattle plans and the
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Greek War of Independence tothe present. The Sarogloscollection includes medievalswords, Renaissance foils andduelling pistols, engraved Turkishscimitars and samurai blades.Unfortunately, accompanyinginformation is scarce and only inGreek. (See pp96–7.)
National Gallery of ArtGreece’s most important art
gallery, showing the greatestworks of Greek artists. Master-pieces by El Greco (known in his homeland by his true name,Domenikos Theotokopoulos)are the highlight of the collection.Hosts major travelling exhibitions.d Vas Konstantinou 50 • Map F4• 9am–3pm Mon & Wed–Sat;10am–2pm Sun • Adm
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MitropoliAthens’ massive cathedral of
1862 was the first major churchbuilt after Greece’s independence.It became the seat of the arch-bishop and hence of modern Greekorthodoxy. Though its colourfulfrescoes and pricey ecclesiasticalobjects are certainly impressive,its architecture is less so. Mitro-poli’s importance is almostentirely spriritual, as the centralpoint for the Greek OrthodoxChurch. (See also p70.)
Panagia Gorgoepikoos Dwarfed by the bulk of
Mitropoli, tiny PanagiaGorgoepikoos (Mikri Mitropoli,“little Mitropoli”) actually faroutshadows its vast neighbour inhistoric and artistic importance.It was built in the 12th century,on the ruins of an ancient templededicated to goddess Eileithyia.Its walls are built entirely ofRoman and Byzantine marblerelics, sculpted with reliefsdepicting the ancient calendar offeasts. (See also Mitropolientry on p70.)
KapnikareaThis lovely little
church, dedicated tothe Virgin Mary, wasbuilt in the 11th centuryover the ruins of anancient temple. It islaid out in the typicalByzantine cross-in-square plan, withthree apses on the
east side and a narthex (a west-ern portico) on the west. Inside,the church is decorated withmedieval mosaics. (Seepp80–81.)
MonistirakiThis was once the greatestmonastery of the area, this
is the church from whichthe Monistirakineighbourhood takesits name. “Littlemonastery” was sonamed after thedestruction of itsmany surroundingbuildings during 19th-century archaeologicaldigs. The church is dueto reopen in early2006. (See p80.)
Mitropoli looming over Panagia
Gorgoepikoos in the foreground
Kapnikarea
PanagiaGrigoroussa
If you’ve lost some-thing or are lookingfor someone, this isthe place to go. EverySaturday, this famouschurch holds servicesblessing tasty fanour-opita cakes. Onceeaten, they are sup-posed to help you findwhat you’re looking for.d By Tower of the Winds • Map J4 • Ser-vices Apr–Oct: 5:45pm; Nov–Mar: 4:45pm
Agias ApostoliThis is one of Athens’ oldest
churches, built in the early 11thcentury over a 2nd-century monu-ment in the ancient Agora. Thoughit underwent a great deal ofdamage during the Ottomanoccupation, the remains of itsfrescoes have been preserved andrestored within. d Map J4
Agia Ekaterini Remnants of Classical
columns remain in the courtyardof this beautiful 12th-century church– evidence that it too was builtover the ruins of an ancienttemple, this one possibly dedi-cated to the goddess Hestia. Thechurch’s many colourful frescoeshave been lovingly restored. (See p72.)
Agios Georgios Claiming the high-
est point in modern-dayAthens – the peak ofLykavittos Hill – AgiosGeorgios boastsviews as far as theSaronic Gulf, the islandof Aegina and thePeloponnese coast.Services are held bothinside and outside.Lykavittos Hill • Map P1
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Built in the 6th century, thisbeautiful monastery church hasbeen used in the course of itslife as a prison, insane asylumand army barracks, as well as arevered place of worship. And,like so many churches in andaround Athens, its foundationsrest upon an ancient temple, thisone to Apollo. The magnificentmosaics and awesome vaulteddome are being restored, andthe church is hoping to reopen in2006. (See p111.)
Kesariani, Mount HymettosThis 12th-century monastery
sits on fragrant, wooded slopesjust outside Athens. Most of itssurviving frescoes are from the16th and 17th centuries, and itsrushing spring waters are said tocure infertility. (See p45.)
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City Strolls
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Dionisiou Areopa-gitiou Walkway
This wide, tree-linedwalkway provides acontinuous pedestrianlink between all themajor archaeologicalsites in central Athens,and has several open-air cafés.
NationalGardens
The winding paths ofthe lush National Gardens are agreat place to stroll. In 1839,when this was a royal park, thelandscape was densely plantedwith 15,000 exotic trees andflowers imported from aroundthe world; many of those originalplants still flourish. (See p95.)
Lykavittos HillSeveral pleasant footpaths
run through pine-clad LykavittosHill. If you’re feeling energetic,hike to the top; if climbing’s notfor you, take the funicular up andsaunter down, stopping at thecafé for a drink. (See p97.)
Kallidromiou and Strefi HillKallidromiou is the heart of
Exarcheia, especially on Saturdays,when the whole neighbourhoodturns out for the open-air laiki(farmer’s market). Soak up thesights of the street and buysome fresh fruit before headingto nearby Strefi Hill (p90) for ahealthy climb and bite to eat.
PasalimaniThis natural harbour at Piraeus
is full of local fishing boats andyachts. Stroll around the marina,ending up on the east side, infront of the Nautical Museum, orcome after dark when the manywaterside cafés come to life.(See p103.)
Filopappos HillFollow the winding paths to
different monuments: two Byzan-tine churches, a Roman memorialand Athens’ old observatory. And,at the summit of this shady hill,extensive views over and beyondthe city. (See pp30–31.)View from Strefi Hill
The open-air theatre on Lykavittos Hill
Previous pages Antiques market stalls around Ermou
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Top 10 City ViewsOrizontes RestaurantWatch the glittering night-
time cityscape from Orizonteson Lykavittos Hill. (See p101.)
Filopappos MonumentSpectacular views directly
across to the temples of theAcropolis or to Piraeus andthe coast. (See p30.)
AreopagosThis high, slippery rock
jutting over the Agora iswhere, for centuries, Athens’ruling council met.
Adrianou, MonastirakiSit in one of the many out-
door cafés lining this streetfor a ring-side view of the an-cient marketplace. (See p82.)
Pil Poule A romantic restaurant (see
p84) that’s perfect for a viewof the Acropolis by moonlight.
ExoSweeping panorama of the
Acropolis, Lykavittos and theKallimarmaro Stadium from thissuper-trendy rooftop bar. d Exo-Markou Mousourou 1, Mets
Strefi HillIn the shadow of Lykavittos,
this green hill (p90) is perfectif you desire a shorter climbbut comparable views.
Athens TowerGreece’s tallest building;
no observation deck, but greatviews if you’re visiting any ofits companies. d Mesogeion 2
Kesariani Monastery Lovely monastery on the
wooded slopes of MountHymettos, above Athens’northern suburbs. (See p45.)
Mount PenteliUp by the National Observa-
tory in the most northerly sub-urb of Athens, you get a greatview of the city by day, but aneven better one at night.
Kallimarmaro Stadium Fourth-century BC Panathen-
aic athletes and the runners of thefirst modern Olympics in 1896ran laps in the sweltering centreof this beautiful marble stadium.Modern joggers and walkers lovethe shady path on top of the70,000-seat edifice. (See p95.)
Pediou tou Areos Athens’ largest park is a good
retreat on blistering city days.Older people crowd the bencheswhile children play soccer aroundthe statues. As you leave, gothrough the walkway lined withbusts of Greece’s War of Indepen-dence heroes. (See p89.)
ErmouThe shopping street. Start at
the top, with designer boutiquesand department stores, then makeyour way down to the funkier end,most obviously when Sunday’sflea market (p80) fills the street.Beyond it are loads of quirkyused-furniture, antique andspeciality shops.
First National Cemetery of Athens
Take a contemplative walkthrough the wide, overgrownrows of handsome mausoleumsin Athens’ largest cemetery. Itis thickly planted with cypresstrees, whose tall, pointed shapeGreeks believe helps guidesouls up to heaven. d Map D–E6
Pediou tou Areos
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Christoforos KotentosOne of the hottest young
stars to burst onto the Greekfashion scene in recent years,Kotentos’s designs are snappedup as fast as he can create themby an adoring clientele of Greece’sA-list celebrities and socialites.Purchase one of his inspirationalcreations from his atelier. d 4thfloor, Sachtouri 3, Psiri • Map B3 • 210325 5434 or 210 325 5156
Athens’ Flea MarketA sprawling and varied
market, and if you have an eyefor an authentic antique you canpick up outstanding bargains atthis Sunday market. Wake upearly though – there’s not muchpoint arriving here after 11am asthe streets become jam-packed
and most of the treasures dis-appear quickly. (See p80.)
LoumidisThe oldest remaining coffee
roaster in Greece. This caffeine-fancier’s paradise stocks awealth of traditional Greek andTurkish coffees, plus all theparaphernalia necessary for itspreparation. It also sells a rangeof beans from around the world,as well as espresso machines,cups, shakers and all theaccoutrements one couldpossibly desire for that perfectcup of coffee. (See p91.)
Tsitouras CollectionFinest quality glasses, orna-
ments, towels, plates, cutlery,bed linen, silk scarves, ties andashtrays – every piece embellish-ed with the omnipresent goldlaurel wreath. The epitome ofoverstated luxury. d Solonos 80;Map M1 • D Kyriakou 7, Kifissia; Map T2
KoriBringing a new quality to the
words souvenir shop, Kori stocksan eclectic mix of accessoriesand ornaments by some ofGreece’s brightest and bestyoung artists, as well as replicasof museum pieces and traditionalpottery, icons and statuettes. d Mitropoleos 13 • Map L3
KaravanA tiny treasure trove of all
that is sinful but irresistiblysweet, Karavan sells quite simplyAthens’ Flea Market
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p 10the best baklava and kataifi in
town. d Voukourestiou 11 • Map M2
Zoumboulakis GalleryAn Athenian institution, this
shop showcases the works ofboth up-and-coming and wellestablished Greek artists.Signed and numberedsilkscreens are reason-ably priced. d Kriezotou 7• Map M3 • 210 363 4454
Elena VotsiWith three years’ of work for
Gucci under her belt, Elena Votsiis now making internationalwaves with her own distinctivepieces. Items from her latestcollections are currently availablein London, Paris and New York,but the full range can be viewedat her boutique in Athens.Working mainly withgold, lapis lazuli,coral, amethyst andaquamarine, Votsi’strademarks are herthickset, rough-cut necklaces and knuckle-duster rings. d Xanthou 7 • Map N/P2
LenaKatsanidou –
Where to WearGreece is famous forits leather goods, andno one designs them
better than talented young LenaKatsanidou. Her sought-afterheavy hide belts, breathtaking(literally) corsets and directionalbags all from the softest, qualityskins are available from thedesigner’s funky Kolonakiboutique, along with hersignature one-shoulder satintops, inspirational jewellery anda whole host of one-off high-fashion garments. d Alopekis 17 &Loukianou • Map P2/3
KorresThe humble origins of this
natural-based, environmentally-and animal-friendly cosmeticsbrand that is taking Europe and
the United States by stormlie in this small homeo-
pathic pharmacy. The fullcollection of haircare,suncare, face and bodylotions is available hereat very reasonable prices.Delight the senses with
refreshing citrus body waterspray, the sweetly spicycoriander shower gel or theorange blossom facial cleanser.Being a chemist, this shop isclosed on Saturdays (as well asMonday and Wednesday after-noons, like many other shops).d Eratosthenous & Ivikou • Map P5
Zoumboulakis Gallery
Karavan
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Restaurants
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Spondi Regularly the critics’ choice
for Athens’ best restaurant, Spondioffers faultless cooking. Try seabass with rose petal and vanillasauce, and don’t skip their wildlyadventurous desserts, such as lotusfilled with mandarin sorbet on abed of banana-pineapple purée,with candied olives, vanilla-scentedolive oil, and sauce of basil, saffronand curry – magnificent. d Pyrronos 5• Map E6 • 210 752 0658 • €€€€
Vardis Michelin-starred Vardis sets
the standard for formal dining inAthens, with a classic French menuand impeccable service. Disheslike veal with caramelized endiveand orange are showy but perfect.Dine in the poolside garden insummer. d Deligianni 66, PentelikonHotel, Kifissia • Map T2 • 210 623 0650• Closed Aug • €€€€€
To VaroulkoRelocated from Piraeus to
Gazi in 2005, To Varoulko is widelyacknowledged for serving thebest seafood in Athens.Chef Lefteris Lazarouhas been awarded aMichelin star. (Seep84.)
Beau Brummel Former chef at
Vardis, Franco-CretanJean de Grylleau hasbrought his talents to anew address. Disheslike soy-citrus
marinated sea bream with coldtagliatelle are refined but burstingwith flavour, and an excellent winelist boasts the best from Greeceand France. d Agiou Dimitriou 9,Kifissia • Map T2 • 210 623 6780 • €€€€
Aristera-Dexia Old factory turned sleek show-
case for innovative food. Greekingredients are twisted with inter-national techniques in dishes likesardine tempura with fig vinai-grette and preserved lemons.d Andronikou 3, Gazi • 210 342 2380• Closed Jul & Aug • €€€€
48 The RestaurantWith its polished concrete
walls and floor, water garden andcoloured lighting, 48 has becomeone of the trendiest restaurantsin town. d Armatolon & Klefton 48,Ambelokipi • Map F2 • 210 641 1082 •€€€€
SymposioA taste of the earthy food of
northern Epirus, where ownerVasilis Paparounas has his own
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Note: Unless otherwise stated, all restaurants accept creditcards and serve vegetarian meals
Top 10 TavernasKaravitisCumin-flavoured keftedes
(meatballs) and tzatziki in a placethat steps back in time. d Arkti-nou & Pafsaniou • Map P5 • €
Mamacas Classic taverna fare in the
revitalized industrial district.A celebrity favourite. d Perse-phonis 41, Gazi • €
Filipou Old-world taverna in Athens’
poshest neighbourhood.d Xenokratous 19 • Map F3 • €
Bakaliarakia touDamigou
A 100-year-old-plus undergroundhideaway with justly famousfried cod and its very ownancient column. (See p75.)
VlassisAn Athenian favourite for
generations; exemplary mezes.d Pasteur 8 & Plateia Mavili• Closed summer • €
SkoufiasA modern touch enhances
taverna classics while preservingtheir flavours. d Troon 63, AnoPetralona • Map A6 • Sep–Jun • €
StrofiTraditional favourites and
tasty updates in a gardenrooftop setting with stunningAcropolis view. (See p75.)
PsarasOne of the few unspoiled
garden tavernas in Plaka.d Erectheos 16 & Erotokritiou• Map K4 • €
FrantzescosSpicy Asia-minor flavoured
treats in leafy Kifissia. dSkiathou 3, Kifissia • Map T2 • €
Monopoleio AthinonLight and modern taverna
fare, often with live rembetikaat weekends. d Ippothontidon& Kiriadon, Kato Petralona• Closed summer • €
farm. The rich, tender wild boarand venison are fabulous, as isthe seasonal dish of river crayfishwith wild mushrooms. (See p75.)
EdodiNo menu at this tiny gem, just
raw ingredients to choose and havecooked to order. Edodi is noted fordelicate flavours and unexpectedsauces, creating delights like fig-stuffed pheasant and lobsterwith parmesan sauce. (See p75.)
RedSet in Athinais (see p81), Red
is all opulent sofas, velvet drapesand stone walls. Within thisseductive world, Yiannis Tselepisturns out the most exotic versionsof Mediterranean cuisine in town,hitting a peak in dishes liketournedos-rossini of wild boarand foie gras. d Kastorias 34–36 • 210 348 0000 • Closed Sun • €€€€
Pil Poule The view of the Acropolis by
moonlight is reason enough tocome here, but exquisite foodand flawless service elevate theexperience to sublime. Disheslike lobster with mango andchampagne, sea bream stuffedwith lime, and fried strawberrieswith chocolate live up to theheady ambience. (See p84.)
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Greek Dishes
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Grilled OctopusBest caught and
served on the sameday, having beengrilled over hot coals,topped with a squeezeof lemon and drizzledwith oil and vinegar. Thetexture should be tenderand the taste salty-sweet.
MoussakaThere are endless variations
on this famous country casserole.But the basic ingredients – auber-gine (eggplant) and minced lamblayered with potatoes and toma-toes, enriched with wine, spicedwith cinammon and topped withbechamel – stay the same, asdoes its warming, earthy flavour.
PittesPittes came to Greece from
Turkey and the Middle East. Thekey to a perfect pita (which means“pie”) is the famous filo crust:dozens of layers of paper-thin,translucent dough, brushed withbutter or olive oil and baked tolight, flaky perfection. Pita fillingsrange from sweet (the honey,walnut and rosewater baklava) tosavoury – spinach and feta orhortopita, made fromwild greens.
StifadoThis rich, tender
wild rabbit stewcomes from themountains of northernGreece, where it still
warms villagers everywinter. The rabbit isspiced with cumin,cloves and cinnamon,but its most wonder-ful characteristic is an
unusual sweetness,achieved by the addition of
lots of small onions,cooked until caramelized.
HoriatikiA bastardized version
appears on menus worldwide as“Greek salad”. The real thing isjust a matter of fresh ingredients.Sun-ripened tomatoes, crispcucumbers, crunchy red onionsand green peppers, richKalamata olives, topped by a slabof feta, aromatic oregano andextra-virgin olive oil make up thissimple but halcyon salad.
SouvlakiSouvla means spit-roasted,
and this is the Greeks’ favouriteway to serve meat. Souvlakirefers to the ubiquitous streetfavourite: hunks of chicken, porkor lamb spit-roasted for hours,slathered with tzatziki, andstuffed along with onions andtomatoes into a hot, freshly
baked, oiled and friedbread-dough.
GemistaGemista simply
means “stuffed”.Greeks stuff tomatoes,aubergines, courgettes(zucchini), peppers andSouvlaki
Moussaka
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Top 10 Greek DrinksOuzoGreece wouldn’t be the
same without this spirit.Drunk with mezes, thisaniseed flavoured distillatepacks a powerful punch.
TsipouroMade from the residue
left after distilling muscatelgrapes, fiery, warmingtsipouro does its job bestin winter months.
RetsinaNot subtle, but affection
for this wine with pine resincuts across all age and classbarriers.
HimaHome-made barrel wine,
often poured into pitchers orplastic bottles directly fromcasks on the taverna wall.
MavrodaphneIt means “black laurel”.
The best grapes for this rich,dark, port-like sweet winecome from the Peloponnese.
AghiorghitikoDeep, velvety “St George”
wines from Nemea are therising stars of the growingGreek wine industry.
AssyrtikoGreece’s finest white wine
is redolent of honeysuckleand figs – one of the mostunusual in the Mediterranean.
SavatianoGreece’s most common
white wine is great withseafood and salads; it’s mostoften found in tavernas.
Greek CoffeeThick, sweet, pungent mud
of strong, black coffee. Askfor an elliniko metrio.
FrappéNescafé, milk and cold
water whipped into apleasant, cool froth.
vine leaves with all manner ofingredients, including rice, herbs,mince, raisins, pine nuts and anarray of spices. Often toppedwith a creamy, lemony sauce,gemista make a fulfilling meal ontheir own.
FassoladaThe staple winter dish for the
ancient Greeks, fassolada is stillGreece’s most popular soup.White beans, carrots, onions,tomatoes and oregano are sim-mered in stock until tender, thentopped with the crucial ingredient:extra-virgin olive oil. In summer,cold fassolada is often served asa meze in the afternoon.
KokoretsiNew EU food laws have made
this essential Easter dish tech-nically illegal, but in back gardensand old-time tavernas Greekscontinue to serve it year round.They take the intestines of lamb,marinate them in herbs, garlicand lemon juice, and roast thewhole thing for hours over coals,until it drips with flavourful juices.
Kokkinisto This is a simple, classic
taverna dish, whose name means“red-sauced”. Lamb, chicken orpork is cooked with tomatoes,wine and herbs in a clay pot,which keeps in all the moistureand pungent flavour. The tender,infused meat should fall off thebone at the mere touch of a fork.
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Festivals and Events
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Epiphany (6 Jan)The “Blessing of the Waters”,
when ports, boats and beachesare blessed, and young men divefor crosses cast into the waterby priests; it’s a year’s good luckfor the successful divers.
Apokries (Feb–Mar) The Greek Orthodox Carnival
begins 58 days before Easter.Festivities, especially glamorousmasquerade parties, last for days.In Athens, the colourful celebra-tions centre on Plaka, where thestreets are packed with celebrantsand masked musicians.
Clean MondayGreeks celebrate the
first day of Lent by goingto the country and flyingkites; in Athens, the skyabove Filopappos Hill isusually filled with them.
Independence Day (25 Mar)
Full-on military paradeswith tanks, guns and
battalions celebrate the date in1821 when, after nearly 400years of occupation, the Greekrevolution successfully rose upagainst the Ottoman Empire.
EasterThe most important event
on the Orthodox calendar, faroutweighing Christmas. On thenight of Easter Friday, participantsfollow effigies of Jesus on flower-covered biers in candlelit pro-cessions, concluding in midnightservices and exuberant fireworks(and, in mountain villages, roundsof gunshots). Sunday is forroasting lamb with 20–30 closefamily members and eating eggsdyed red (symbolizing both theblood of Christ and rebirth).
Hellenic Festival (Jun–Sep)Ancient Greeks performed
their timeless tragedies in thespectacular theatres of HerodesAtticus and Epidauros. Now,every summer, the world’sgreatest singers, dancers and
Easter feast of roast lamb
Hellenic festival at Epidauros
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actors perform under moonlightin these world-renowned venues.Recent singers include LucianoPavarotti and the Harlem GospelChoir, while Gerard Depardieuand Isabella Rossellini have actedin performances of classical worksat Epidauros. d www.greekfestival.gr
Lykavittos Festival(Jun–Sep)
Top music acts such as Bob Dylan,Phillip Glass and BB King per-form in the theatre nestled atthe steep peak of Lykavittos Hill.d www.greekfestival.gr
Rockwave (Jun)This three-day festival is
Greece’s hottest music ticket ofthe year. The line-up includeshuge Greek and internationalpop, rock and alternative acts.d www.didimusic.gr/rockwave
Feast of the Virgin (15 Aug)Absolutely everything closes
for the Assumption of the Virgin,which is second only to Easter inthe Orthodox calendar. The fullcross-section of Greek woman-hood packs churches, as every“Maria” turns out to honour hernamesake.
Athens Marathon (early Nov)
Athletes from around the worldretrace the course of Pheidippidis,antiquity’s most celebrated runner.In 490 BC, the Greeks defeatedthe Persians at Marathon in ahistoric battle for democracy (seep124). Pheidippidis ran the 42 km(26 miles) to Athens, announcedthe outcome (“Victory!”), thendied of exhaustion. Today’srunners have the advantage ofwater stops and cheering crowdsen route from Marathonas to theKallimarmaro Stadium (see p95)to ease the arduous feat.
Top 10 Saints’ DaysSt Basil (1 Jan)Families eat Vasilopita
(Basil’s cake), into which coinshave been baked. Finding acoin brings a year’s good luck.
St John the Baptist (7 Jan)
The day John baptized Christin the Jordan river. Variousregional traditions involvedunking local men in water.
St Athanassios (18 Jan)Today the church auctions
off donated gifts in honour ofAthanassios, one of Ortho-doxy’s three holy Fathers.
St Charalambos (10 Feb)
An important day for hospitalsin Greece, who today honourthe patron saint of physicians.
St George (23 Apr)The dragon-slayer is the
patron saint of the military,who honour him today.
St Dimitrios (26 Oct)The greatest celebrations
are in Thessaloniki, where thismartyr, whose wounds ranwith myrrh instead of blood,is patron saint.
St Catherine (25 Nov) This famous martyr is
honoured as the protectress ofinfants, maidens and students.
St Stelianos (26 Nov) Pregnant women stay home
from work to ask Stelianos,patron of infants and childbirth,to protect their children.
St Barbara (4 Dec) Mothers sometimes make
their children sleep in a churchon the night of St Barbara toprotect them from illness.
St Nicholas (6 Dec) Celebrations in honour of
the patron saint of sailors areespecially festive on islandsand in coastal areas.
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Olympic Venues
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For information about the Athens games see www.athens2004.com
Athens Olympic SportsComplex
This was the Games’ centralattraction. The existing multi-stadium complex was expandedand renovated to host theopening and closing ceremonies,plus tennis, gymnastics,basketball finals,swimming, diving,water polo and cycling.Spanish architectSantiago Calatravadesigned the glass andsteel stadium domes.There are plans totransform the sur-rounding area into averdant art-filled park.d Kifissias, Maroussi
Goudi OlympicComplex
This complicated building hostedthe pentathalon. It includes a2,000-seat area for swimming,two 5,000-seat areas for ridingand running and one 4,500-seatarea for fencing and shooting.A temporary 5,000-seat area alsohosted badminton. d Katechaki,Goudi
Kallimarmaro StadiumThis showpiece in central
Athens was built in the 4thcentury BC for the PanathenaicGames. It later fell into disuse,but was restored with beautifulPentelic marble for the firstmodern Olympics in 1896. In
2004, it hosted archeryand the Marathonfinish. d VasileosKonstantinou
Olympic Weight-Lifting Hall
Weightlifting is Greece’smost successful inter-national sport – theteam bagged fivemedals in Sydney. Thelifting arena was one
of the first Olympic venuesplanned for 2004, and organizersclaimed that the 5,000-seat hallwas the biggest venue ever builtfor showcasing weightlifting. dRalli Petrou, Nikaia
Faliron Coastal ZoneOlympic Complex
The beachside Peace and Friend-ship Stadium, which seats 14,000
spectators, hostedvolleyball. Two coastalsports pavilions – oneseating 10,000, theother 8,000 – hostedboxing, handball andTae Kwon Do (anextremely popularsport among Greeks).Two sandy beachvolleyball courtsKallimarmaro Stadium
Olympic sign
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provided seating for 10,000 and4,000. d Faliron
Hellenikon Sports Complex
This massive complex is on thesite of Athens’ former airport,converted for 2004 into majorsports facilities. It hostedbasketball, baseball, softball,fencing, handball, hockey andcanoe slalom. There are plans toconvert the complex into a giantpark which could be the largestin Europe. Though some land willbe sold to developers to fund theproject. d Poseidonos
Olympic Sailing Centre The sailing centre was the
first Olympic venue to host atest event – an internationalregatta in 2002. Sailing eventswere among the most excitingcompetitions of thewhole games, partlybecause of themeltemi winds, whichgust reliably along thecoast every August.There are plans toconvert the site into a1,170-berth marina.d Agios Kosmas
MarkopouloOlympic
Equestrian CentreEverything horseywas here, withstables for 300horses. Construction
on this centre wasdelayed whenarchaeologistsuncovered a shrine togoddess Aphrodite.Post Games there areplans to build an 18-hole golf course onthe site.
Olympic Canoeand Rowing Centre
Canoeing and rowing competi-tions took place in a 2,200-m(7,300-ft) artificial lake, with seat-ing for 14,000 spectators. Nowthere are plans to make the areaan environmental zone, with anadjoining archaeological park,displaying Stone-Age findsuncovered during constructionand finds from the nearby site ofthe Battle of Marathon (see p124).d Schinias, Marathonas
Acharnes OlympicMountain Bicycling Venue
The cycling and mountain bikecompetitions were held along amagnificent route on MountParnitha, a stunning area ofnatural beauty just outsideAthens, frequently overlooked byvisitors. d Mount Parnitha
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For more on Greece’s early playwrights see pp36–7
The Rites ofDionysus,
1200–600 BCAnnual rites to the godof wine and revelrywere held each spring,and involved orgies,feasts and the inges-tion of herbs that ledto wild ecstasies.A dithyramb (ode toDionysus) was sungby a chorus of men dressed assatyrs. It eventually evolved intonarratives, which in turndeveloped into the first plays.
Thespis, 6th century BCDuring one of these group
chorales, an intrepid performernamed Thespis broke away fromthe group and added a solonarrative. The innovation tookhold, and the new individual rolewas known as the protagonist,the individual hero of the drama,now backed by the chorus.
Drama Competitions,534 BC
In 534 BC, the ruler of Athens,Pisistratus, formalized the Diony-san festivals into fully fledgeddrama competitions, held annually.Thespis won the first competition.
Aeschylus, the FirstPlaywright, 472 BC
To the protagonist, Aeschylus in-troduced a second character, theantagonist, creating new possibili-
ties. Then in 472 BCcame Persians, theearliest known play.
SophoclesBeats Aeschylus
in the Drama Com-petition, 468 BC Sophocles broughtanother innovation tothe blossoming formof drama – a third
character. He also wrote what isstill considered the greatest master-piece of tragedy, Oedipus Rex.
Greek Shadow PuppetTheatre, 16th Century
After the golden age of Atheniandrama, Greece’s performing artsstagnated. However, during theTurkish occupation, Greeks drew onan Eastern tradition of shadowpuppet theatre. The stylized, colour-ful spectacles were satirical andbawdy, the main character (thefool Karaghiozis) joking at theexpense of his Turkish masters.
Rembetika Emerges, 1870sWhen the Greeks came out
of 400 years of Turkish occupation,one of the first art forms tocoalesce was rembetika, a formof music that can be compared,culturally, to the American Blues.Heavily influenced by music andinstruments from Asia Minor,rembetika lyrics tell of life’sunderside: drugs, destitution,erotic love and squalor.
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Maria Callas DominatesOpera, 1950s and 1960s
“La Divina”, born Maria Kalogero-poulos, was the original diva. Thefiery first lady of opera enragedmany managers at La Scala andthe Metropolitan with her tem-peramental whims, but seducedmillions, including shipping mag-nate Aristotle Onassis, with herheavenly soprano and unfor-gettable gaze.
Mikis Theodorakis Writesthe Songs of a Generation,
1960s and 1970s Mikis Theodorakis, Greece’sgreatest modern composer, woninternational acclaim and starteda cultural revolution in his owncountry with works like Epiphaniaand the instantly recognizableZorba the Greek score. Duringthe junta, Theodorakis’s songswere banned and he was jailed,making him an instant symbol ofthe resistance.
Vangelis’s Chariots of Fire, 1981
Greek composer Vangelis won anAcademy Award for his memorablescore for Chariots of Fire, a filmabout Olympic runners. Vangelisis internationally recognized forhis electronic compositions andfilm scores, and retainssuperstar status in Greece.
Top 10 VenuesHerodes Atticus TheatreAthens’ premiere showcase
for performing arts for nearly2,000 years (p9). d Box office:Panepistimiou 39 • Map L/M2• 210 322 1459
Stoa Athanaton Athens’ favourite rembeta-
tiko (p93). d Central Market,Omonia (in the arcade) • Map C3
National OperaA little moth-eaten, but
this place is still beloved byAthenians. d Akadimias 59–61• Map L1 • 210 361 2461
National TheatreHome of the Greek National
Theatre Company, whose per-formances of the classics arerenowned. d Agiou Konstantinou22 • Map B2 • 210 522 3242
An Rock, reggae and altern-
ative performances in theheart of Exarcheia (p93).
Rodon-Live Rock A converted cinema that
hosts the best hard rock andheavy metal bands (p93).
Megaro MoussikisFantastic acoustics for the
world’s best orchestras, balletsand opera companies. d VasSofias & Kokkali • Map G3 • 210728 2333–7 • Closed in summer
Lykavittos TheatreHillside theatre showcasing
top-notch musical acts, fromrock to classical (p97).
Half NoteEvery top jazz musician
passing through Athens hasplayed here. d Trivonianou 17• Map M6 • 210 921 3310
EpidaurosOnly ancient classics are
performed in this famousamphitheatre (p119). d Ticketsavailable from the HerodesAtticus box office
Anthony Quinn in Zorba the Greek
AROUNDATHENS
Plaka, Makrigianni andKoukaki
68–75
Monistiraki, Psiri, Gaziand Thissio
78–85
Omonia and Exarcheia86–93
Syntagma and Kolonaki94–101
BEYONDATHENS
Piraeus 102–107
North to Delphi110–115
Into the Peloponnese116–121
Around the Attica Coast
122–127
ATHEN
S’ TOP 10
68
THE WINDING MEDIEVAL ALLEYWAYS of Plaka,the old quarter below the Acropolis, are easily
the most charming part of Athens. Naturally, theyare also the most visited, and in midsummer somestreets can be packed with touts and cheap giftshops. But Plaka is also very good at concealingplaces of untouched delight. The working-classareas of Makrigianni and Koukaki are shaking offold dust, and must-see museums, four-starrestaurants and ultra-hip clubs are appearing.
Plaka, Makrigianni and Koukaki
Aro
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kaki Left Fallen column,Temple of Olympian Zeus Centre Plaka restaurants Right Plaka streets
Previous pages The Theatre at Delphi
1 Acropolis
2 New Acropolis
Museum
3 Anafiotika
4 Roman Forum and
Tower of the Winds
5 Museum of Greek
Musical Instruments
6 Mitropoli
7 Museum of Greek
Folk Art
8 Plateia Filomousou
9 Temple of Olympian
Zeus
0 Filopappos Hill
Sights
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Akropoli
Syntagma
Sygrou–Fix
Aer ides
Anaf iotika
Plaka
Makrig ianni
Veikou
Koukaki
F i lopappou
ZappeionGardens
Filopappos
Hill
PLATEIALYSIKRATOUS
PLATEIAFILOMOUSOU
PLATEIAMITROPOLEOSN I LEOS
PNYK
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F I L O P A P P O U
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T Z A M I K A R A T A S I
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L A Z A I ON
PO I KI LIS
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PA Z IKOTS I K A
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I TR A K O P O U L O U
IR AKLE IDON
N AVAR C H OU N I K O D I MOU
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0500 500yards metres
Sculptures from the Acropolis
69
Aro
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AcropolisThe sacred rock
of the Acropolisdominates Plaka, andits different templesare clearly visible fromall angles throughoutthe neighbourhood.Legend holds that itwas on this rock thatAthena (p39) wondominion of Athensfrom Poseidon, and ithas been devoted toworshipping the god-dess since 650 BC. (See alsopp8–9 and 44.)
New Acropolis Museum This all-glass $100 million
showpiece, designed by interna-tionally renowned architectBernard Tschumi and opening in2007, is meant to give a fittinghome to Greece’s greatesttreasures: the marble sculpturesthat once adorned the Acropolis,especially the mighty Parthenon.(Until the New Museum opens,these sculptures will still behoused in the small on-siteAcropolis museum.) (See alsopp10–11, 44 and 46.)
AnafiotikaClinging to the side of the
Acropolis is Athens’ loveliest andquirkiest hidden neighbourhood.It was built in the 19th centuryby tradesmen from the Cycladicisland of Anafi, brought to Athensafter the War of Independenceto build King Otto’s palace.They missed home so much thatthey decided to re-create apocket of it here, all island-style,dome-topped blue-and-whitehouses, covered with banks ofbougainvillea, in a maze of tinypassageways. Many descendentsof the original Anafi workersstill live here.
The Parthenon at the Acropolis
Tower of the Winds
Roman Forum and Tower of the Winds
Julius Caesar and Augustus werefounders of this Roman market-place, which replaced the originalGreek Agora, and their namesare inscribed on the grand Gateof Athena Archegetis. But its moststriking feature, the Tower of theWinds, was built in 50 BC, 100years earlier. There is no otherbuilding like it in the ancient world:eight-sided, each side sculptedwith a personification of thewinds and their names inscribed:Boreas, Kaikias, Apeliotes, Euros,Notos, Lips, Zephyros and Skiron.(See also pp20–21 and 44.)
70
Museum of Greek Musical Instruments
This unassuming museum is agreat treasure. Here you can seeand hear the Middle Eastern andEuropean influences on Greekmusic, and how Greeks trans-formed them into something oftheir own. The instrumentsthemselves are beautiful,often intricately inlaid withsilver, ivory and tortoise-shell. It is also an ethno-musicology study centre,and there are occasionalcourtyard performances.(See also p46.) d Diogenous1–3 • Map K4 • 210 362 9513• 10am–2pm Tue & Thu–Sun,noon–6pm Wed • Free
MitropoliEnormous, lavishly appointed
Athens Cathedral is one of thecity’s best-known landmarks. Thearchbishop of Greece (often citedas the nation’s most influentialperson) gives addresses here,and it is regularly packed whenAthens’ high society come for
Aro
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Lord ByronAmong Plaka’s many famous
residents was Romantic poet andphilhellene Lord Byron (1788–1824), who lived in a Capuchin
monastery that stood on PlateiaLysikratous, while writing Childe
Harold. He left to fight on theGreek side in the War of Indepen-dence. Athens remembers him in
a street off the square namedafter him: Vyronas, in Greek.
weddings and baptisms. Of fargreater artistic importance, though,is tiny Panagia Gorgoepikoos (“littleMetropoli”), next door. The 12th-century church is built of Romanand Byzantine marble relics, depict-ing 90 scenes of ancient feasts.(See also p48.) d Plateia Mitropoleos• Map K3 • 7am–7pm daily • Free
Museum of Greek Folk Art
The dimly lit, government-run building won’t winprizes, but inside are five
floors packed with rich,beautiful folk art, fromjewellery to decorate andcover the entire body to
fine embroideries worked withgold and silver thread. There’s alsoa room of wall paintings by prim-itivist painter Theofilos Khatz-mikhail. (See p46.) d Kydathinaion 17• Map L4 • 10am–2pm Tue–Sun • Limitedinfo in English • Adm
Plateia FilomousouAt some point everyone
passes through this green, shadyplateia, lined with cafés both old-world and trendy. Try To Tristato forVictorian ambience and heavenlyteas and cakes, or Kydatheneonfor a view of the scene (see p74for both). Catch a rooftop movieand Acropolis view at Cine Paris.Relax on benches in the almost-hidden stone-paved centre. Neo-
Mitropoli
Museum of Greek Folk Art
Museum of Greek
Musical Instruments
71
Aro
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d A
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laka, Makrigian
ni an
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ou
kaki
Hike up to the Acropolis
first thing to beat the heatand the worst of the crowds.Then spend an hour or soadmiring the temples.
Come down from theAcropolis and turn left ontothe Dionisiou Areopagitiou
walkway (see p52). YourAcropolis ticket gives youfree entry into the Theatre
of Dionysus, where manyof the great Classicaldramas were first staged.
Head back out to thewalkway and turn right onMakrigianni to visit theNew Acropolis Museum
(see pp10–11). Next, head toPlateia Lysikratous, namedafter the unusual monu-ment to the winner of a335 BC choral competition.
Stop for a frappé in one ofthe leafy cafés overlookingLysikratous – O Diogenoushas the best view.
A Morning in Plaka
Early Morning
Late Morning
Classical buildings peer over tree-tops at the whole scene. d Map L4
Temple of Olympian Zeus All that remains of Greece’s
largest temple, a shrine to Zeus,is 16 columns. But standingalone, silhouetted by the brightAttic sky, their majesty stilloverwhelms. Inside the templewas a colossal gold-and-ivorysculpture of the god, a copy ofthe one at Olympus, which wasone of the Seven Wonders of theancient world. (See also pp32–3.)
Filopappos HillNext to the parched Acropolis
rock, pine-and-cypress-clad Filo-pappos Hill offers a cool, greenplace to stroll. The peak is markedby the tomb and monument ofRoman senator and philhelleneGaius Julius Antiochus Filopap-pos, and distinguished by sweep-ing views from the Acropolis tothe sea. In summer, the DoraStratou Dance Troupe puts onnightly performances of Greekfolk dances in a theatre nestledamong the pines. (See alsopp30–31.)
Temple of Olympian Zeus
From the square, head uptowards the charming19th-century quarter ofAnafiotika (see p69) toexplore its twisting alleys.
Leave by Prytaneiou, stop-ping in the quiet garden ofthe Byzantine Church of
the Holy Sepulchre, andlighting a candle from itsfamed extra-holy flame.
From Prytaneiou, turn righton Mnisikleous and left onKyrristou for a choice ofeither the tiny but delightfulMuseum of Greek Musical
Instruments or the Roman
Forum and Tower of the
Winds (see pp20–21).Finally, head back a blockto O Platanos (see p75),for a hefty Greek lunchunder a huge plane tree.
72
Best of the RestFrissiras Museumof Contemporary
European PaintingA new, well-run museum of over3,000 works of top post-warGreek and European artists.d Monis Asteriou Tsagari 3 & 7 • Map L4• 210 323 4678 • www.frissirasmuseum.com • 11am–7pm Wed–Thu, 11am–6pmFri–Sun • Tours Sat, Sun 12:30pm • Adm
Church of the Holy TrinityThe largest medieval church
in Athens, it was built in 1031 andis now Athens’ Russian Orthodoxchurch. d Filellinon • Map L4
Children’s Art MuseumExhibitions showcase work by
young artists in mountain tribes,international cities and refugeecentres. Many activities for kids.d Kodrou 9 • Map L4 • 210 331 2631• Sep–Jul: 10am–2pm Tue–Sat, 11am–2pmSun • Adm (children free)
Jewish MuseumThe collection’s 15,000 items
tell the story of Jews in Greece.d Nikis 39 • Map L4 • 210 322 5582• www. jewishmuseum.gr • 9am–2:30pm Mon–Fri, 10am–2pm Sun • Adm
Lalaounis MuseumJeweller Ilias Lalaounis show-
cases his gold creations. d Kallisperi12 • Map J5 • 9am–4pm Mon & Thu–Sat,11am–4 pm Sun, 9am–9pm Wed • Adm(free Sat 9–11am, Wed after 3pm)
Kanellopoulos MuseumA miscellany of high-quality
antiquities from a family collection,housed in a Neo-Classical mansion.d Theorias 12 • Map J4 • 8:30am–3pmTue–Sun • Adm
Church of the HolySepulchre
Miracles are associated with thisbeautiful Byzantine church, andmany flock here at Easter to lightcandles from the holy flame. d Be-tween Prytaneiou and Erotokritou • Map K4
Study Centre for the Artof Puppet Theatre
Greeks have told funny, subversivetales via shadow puppet theatrefor centuries. The art form is keptalive here. dTripodon 30 • Map K4 •Performances (in Greek) Sun 11am & 5pm
Choregic Monument ofLysikrates
This cylindrical monument built in335 BC honours Lysikrates, victorin the Dionysian Choral competition(see p64). d Pl Lysikratous • Map L5
Church of Agia EkateriniThis lovely restored Byzan-
tine church is on the site of anancient temple, whose columnsstill stand below the courtyard.d Off Plateia Lysikratous • Map L5
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kaki Left Church of Agia Ekaterini Centre Children’s Art Museum Right Jewish Museum
q
q Akropoli
Syntagma
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worry beads and silver and goldjewellery. d Makrigianni 15c • Map L4
O BrettosPop in for a bottle of this dis-
tillery’s fiery home-made ouzo, andstay to sip a shot of surprisinglysweet mestiha and admire thehuge barrels under the eaves (seep74). d Kydathinaion 41 • Map L4
MesogeiaThis little gem of a grocery
shop stocks cheeses from allover the country, olive oil, olives,wine, ouzo, herbs and spices,teas, and some organic goods.d Nikis 52 & Kydathinaion • Map L4
Lalaounis MuseumJewellery Shop
Some of the world’s most glam-orous gold creations are still tobe found at Ilias Lalounis’ cele-brated jewellery house. d Cornerof Karyatidon & Kallisperi • Map J5
SirinesHandmade worry beads, lucky
charms, key rings, beaded brace-lets and earrings are sold at thissmall shop. d Makrigianni 3 • Map K6
Centre of Hellenic TraditionA cavernous warehouse of
handicrafts from every corner ofthe country. If you only have timefor one souvenir stop, make thisit. d Mitropoleos 59 • Map K3
Pantelis Mountis In Pantelis Mountis’s hole-in-
the-wall, you can purchasebeautiful hand-painted icons andmetal tamata to ward off specificailments. d Apollonos 27 • Map L3
Village FlokatiThis shop has plenty of
Greece’s famous hairy flokatiarugs, made from woolly mountainsheep. d Mitropoleos 19 • Map K3
KoriThis tasteful little shop sells
a select choice of gifts, includinghighly individual, signed andnumbered artworks by some ofthe country’s latest talents.d Mitropoleos & Voulis 13 • Map K3
IlariGalaktozaharoplasteio
The name – which translates asIlari’s dairy and pastry shop – is amouthful, and so are thedelicious traditional Greek sweetssold here. The specialities areold-fashioned puddings.d Adrianou 112 • Map K3/4
EmblemSpecializing in paintings of
ships, this shop sells a variety ofhandmade crafts including paintedtrays, wooden taverna signs,
Souvenirs and Gifts
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Left Emblem Centre O Brettos Right Mesogeia
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Cafés and BarsKydatheneonIntellectuals and locals chew
the fat in a garden overlooking thesquare in summer, or in the stonedining room in winter, at thisbeautiful vestige of the early 20thcentury. d Plateia Filomousou • Map L4
To TristatoThe old-world atmosphere –
all potted palms, portraits and pinkswags – might almost distractyou entirely from the prime reasonfor coming here: the spectacularpastries and mountain teas.d Aggelou Geronta & Daidalou • Map L4
LamdaTwo floors of silver-and-
holograph walls, up-to-the-minuteEurotechno music, and model-perfect boy clientele make thisone of Athens’ hottest gay bars.d Lempesi 15 • Map K6
DeLuxeDeeply trendy DeLuxe
is usually packed with glossymedia types enjoying its “sixties
lounge” decor andgroovy DJs. It alsoserves stellar foodupstairs. d Falirou 15• Map C6
VyniOne of Athens’
few full beer gardensoffers an internation-al range of brews ontap, plus Hellenizedpub grub. d Drakou 10• Map C6
KlepsydraThis tiny, quiet bar-café
behind the Tower of the Winds issurrounded by flower pots andpastel-hued buildings. Localslove it as it’s nicely tucked away.d Thrasiboulou • Map K4
MelinaThis pink-and-gilt shrine to
late Greek actress and nationalheroine Melina Mercouri wasonce her favourite café. d Lyssiou22, Aerides • Map K4
GalaktopoleionAmaltheia
Stop by this small, cosy spot ona rainy night. The elaborateantique mirrors, old jukebox,huge selection of teas andcrackling woodstove will keepyou warm. d Tripodon 16 • Map K4
O BrettosThe walls here are lined with
hundreds of bottles of home-made, brilliantly coloured liquorsthat glow like stained-glasswindows. The drinksare good, too. d Kyda-thinaion 41 • Map L4
OionosThough this is
the youngest,hippest spot on thesquare, it’s still easyto relax among theivy-covered outdoorwalls. d AggelouGeronta 7, PlateiaFilomousou • Map L4
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AD RIANOU
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Daphne’sIf there’s a celebrity in town,
they’re sure to eat in the frescoeddining room of this Neo-Classicalmansion. d Lysikratous 4 • Map L5• 210 322 7971 • €€€
Symposio Beautiful regional food from
northwestern Epirus, most of itraised on the owner’s farm. (Seealso p57.) d Erechtheiou 46 • Map B6• 210 922 5321 • €€€€€
Strofi The rooftop view is fantastic,
and the is food a cut abovetypical taverna fare, and thecrowd often filled with theatretypes from the nearby HerodesAtticus. d Rovertou Gkalli 25 • Map B5• 210 921 4130 • €
EdodiOne of Athens’ top restaurants,
set in an old mansion in Koukaki.The food is superb, unfortunatelythe space is limited and reserva-tions essential. (See also p57.)
d Veikou 80 • Map C6• 210 921 3013 • €€€€
PsarasThis established,
pretty taverna hastables on the white-washed stepsleading to theAcropolis. Try thesoupes (cuttlefish). dErectheos 16 &Erotokritiou • Map K4• 210 321 8733 • €€€
O Platanos Amid Plaka’s tourist traps,
O Platanos’s tender, aromatic lamband home-made retsina havebeen classics since 1932.d Diogenous 4 • Map K4 • 210 322 0666• Closed Sun • No credit cards • €
Eden Greece’s first vegetarian res-
taurant opened in 1982 and is stilla haven for herbivores. The atmos-phere is refreshingly bright and non-hippie. d Lyssiou 12, Aerides • Map K4• 210 324 8858 • No credit cards • €
ScholiarhioThough somewhat touristy
these days, this ouzeri still radiatescharacter. Pick from the daily offer-ings on a tray. dTripodon 14 • Map K4• 210 324 7605 • No credit cards • €
Elliniki Etairia At this elegant lunchtime
stop, the dining room showcasesancient finds, and offers threedifferent, beautifully prepareddishes daily. d Tripodon 28 • Map K4• 210 321 5218 • ClosedSat, Sun • €
Bakaliarakia touDamigou
The name means“codfish”, which thislocal favourite hasbeen serving up, withstrong garlic sauce,for 140 years. dKydathinaion 41 (basement)• Map L4 • 210 322 5084 •No credit cards • €
Restaurants and Tavernas
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Left O Platanos Right Eden
Note: Unless otherwise stated, all restaurants accept credit cards and serve vegetarian meals
€ under €30€€ €30–€40
€€€ €40–€50€€€€ €50–€60
€€€€€ over €60
Price Categories
For a three-coursemeal for one with halfa bottle of wine (orequivalent meal), taxesand extra charges.
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F OR DECADES THESE OLD NEIGHBOURHOODS of warehouses and work-shops lay quiet, crumbling and neglected, enlivened only by the Monastiraki
flea market, which spills out antiques, kitsch and junk from Plateia Avissynias.However, in recent years the appeal of central location, cheap rent, chic renovat-ed factory space and an authentically funky atmosphere lured first galleries,then clubs, cafés and restaurants, to move into what’s now the hippest area intown. Gentrification hasn’t robbed these districts of their character, though.Rather, craftsmen’s shops and industrial buildings nestle side-by-side with edgyclubs, hole-in-the-wall Greek music dives and squaresfilled with outdoor cafés and bars. Adding to the mixare views of marble antiquities at the Agora andKerameikos, Athens’ greenest archaeological sites.
Monastiraki, Psiri, Gazi and Thissio
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sio Left Municipal Art Gallery Centre Museum of Traditional Greek Ceramics Right Avyssynias Café
Previous pages Restaurants in Plaka
1 Agora and Agora
Museum
2 Technopolis
3 Kerameikos
4 Athens Municipal
Art Gallery
5 Athens’ Flea Market
Sights
6 Plateia Monastiraki
7 Folk Ceramic
Museum
8 Hadrian’s Library
9 Kapnikarea
0 Athinais
Antiques at Plateia Avyssinias
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Votanikos(opens 2004)
Monastiraki
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PLATEIAAG IRINIS
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PLATEIATHEATROU
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P L ATA I ON A G I S I L A O U KOLOKYNTHOUS
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PERSEFON I S
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KARAISK
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PRAXITELOUS
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T H E S S A L O N I K I S
P A N A G I T S A L D A R I ( P E I R A I O S )
P A N A G I T S A L D A R I ( P E I RA I O
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Agora and AgoraMuseum
One of the mostinteresting archaeologicalsites in Greece, this iswhere Socrates “corrupted”youth, St Paul preachedand converted his firstfollowers, and the firstdecisions in the fledglingdemocracy were made. Don’tmiss the wonderfully preservedTemple of Hephaestus, or therecreated Stoa of Attalos, nowhome to the excellent AgoraMuseum. (See pp12–15.)
TechnopolisThis enormous complex
used to be a toxin-spewingfoundry, hence the name of theneighbourhood, “Gazi” (gaslands).These days it’s been convertedinto a huge arts centre, hostingtop-notch exhibits, concerts andarts spaces – hence the building’snew name, which means “art city”.The conversion to Technopolishas prompted a revitalization ofthe entire area, with trendy barsand restaurants springing upamong the gaslands. Check theAthens News (see p131) forlistings of the frequent events.d Peiraios 100 • Map A4 • 210 346 7322
KerameikosA green oasis in the
middle of factories andhardware markets, thisis the site of the oldestand largest burialground in Attica. This isalso the outer wall ofthe ancient city, andrunning through it is the
Sacred Way. Outside the site,the road continues, stillincongruously named SacredWay despite its congested trafficand empty warehouses. (Seepp26–7.)
Athens Municipal Art Gallery
Most important 20th-centuryGreek artists are represented inthis collection of 2,355 works ofart. These include paintings andengravings, as well as severaldrawings by Bavarian architectErnst Ziller, who designed manyof Athens’ most important Neo-Classical buildings. Here you cansee his plans for the NationalTheatre and designs for the city’sgrandest private homes, nowmostly converted to museumsand public spaces. d Nr PlateiaEleftherias • Map B3 • 9am–1pm &5–9pm Mon–Fri, 9am–1pm Sun • Free
Ancient Agora
Stele of Demitria and
Pamphile, Kerameikos
80
Flea market
Athens’ Flea MarketSmall, seedy Plateia
Avissynias comes alive on Sundaymornings when Athens’ biggestand most colourful flea marketfills the space and spills out tothe streets around it. Here’swhere you’ll find everythingyou didn’t know you needed:pink cut-glass Turkish liqueursets, 100-year-old phonesthat still work, beautifulantique carved-wood desks,and piles of fantastic kitsch and junk. Bring your hagglingskills. d Plateia Avissynias & Ermou • Map J3
Plateia Monastiraki
There has been a churchand monastery on this sitesince at least the 10th century.The current church was built in1678. The monastery once ownedmany of the surrounding buildings,which were later destroyed, but
the area’s name (Monastirakimeans “little monastery”) stillderives from its glory days.Currently, the church is beingrestored and should reopen inearly 2006. The square and metro station reopened in 2004.d Map J3
Folk Ceramic Museum This is an outpost of the
Museum of Greek Folk Art (seep70), housed in an 18th-centurymosque. The museum’sextensive collection includesrich, colourful ceramics,sculpture and decorative folkobjects from all over Greece and
Asia Minor. Most of theexhibits are made from
terracotta or the gleamingfaïence that was favouredby the ancient Minoans.d Areos 1 • Map J3 • 210 3242066 • 9am–2:30pm Mon &
Wed–Sun • Adm
Hadrian’s Library Roman Emperor Hadrian
built this sumptuous “library”(really more of a luxuriousforum) in AD 131. It had acourtyard, mosaic floors,concert areas, and a smallarea for storing library scrolls,all surrounded by extra-fancy
Corinthian columns. Followingextensive excavation andrestoration, part of the site isnow open to the public. (Seep45.) d Map J3 • Summer: 8am–7pmdaily; winter: 8am–3pm daily • Adm
Kapnikarea One of Athens’ greatest
pleasures is walking down acrowded street and suddenlyfinding yourself face-to-face witha tiny, centuries-old monumentin the midst of all the modernity.The beautiful 10th-century churchknown as Kapnikarea, smack in
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The Jewish CommunityThe area of Psiri and Kerameikoshas been heavily settled by GreekJews since the third century BC.
In 1944, the Nazis occupyingAthens sent more than half the
population to concentration camps;however, the community has slowlybuilt up to once again become a
centre of Greek Jewish life.
Figure at the
Folk Ceramic
Museum
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Start the day with the Sun-day brunch served in thegarden courtyard of theAthenaeum Maria Callas
(see p82), accompanied byfamous opera recordings.
Satiated with food andmusic, head for Psirri tothe shop of Stavros
Melissinos (see p83). Hewill custom-fit you aclassic pair of Greeksandals, and possibly try tosell you an English transla-tion of one of his books.
Proceed to PlateiaMonastiraki, overlooked by the Folk Ceramic
Museum. Step inside for awhile or take a walk aroundthe closed but visible-to-the-public Hadrian’s Library.
Sunday Markets
Morning
Early Afternoon
Kapnikarea
Hadrian’s Library
Then head over to theRoman Agora (see pp12–15), the sprawling market-place that was Athens’ heartfor centuries. Take a goodtwo hours here, making surenot to miss the fantasticallywell-preserved Temple ofHephaestus and the restoredStoa of Attalos, home to theexcellent Agora Museum.
Now that you’re warmedup, it’s time to go backdown Adrianou simply forthe fun of haggling at thelively Flea Market at PlateiaAvissynias. It’s hard to resistbuying at least something,though by this stage ofthe day it is more likely tobe fabulous kitschy junkthan bargain antique.
Once you’re done, retirewith your booty to Café
Avissynias (p84) to enjoya long lunch, as the market-place closes down and themusic and drinking start up.
the middle of the shoppingstreet of Ermou, provides justsuch a moment. Built over theruins of an ancient temple to agoddess, the church kept thetheme, with its dedication to the Virgin. d Kapnikarea & Ermou •Map K3 • 8am–2pm Mon & Wed,8am–12:30pm & 5–7pm Tue, Thu, Fri,8–11:30am Sun • Free
AthinaisA former silk factory conver-
ted into a trendy, upmarket artscentre. Athinais has two res-taurants – one, Red, is renownedfor its creative food and lusciousred-curtained decor (see p57) –plus a museum, bar, music halland old-fashioned cinema. Checkthe Athens News for eventslistings. d Kas-torias 34–36,Votanikos• Map A3• 210 3480000
82
Best of the RestMaria Callas Grand Prix opera com-petition. Sunday breakfast in thecourtyard is accompanied byopera records. d Adrianou 3 • Map B4
AdrianouThe stretch of this street from
the Thissio metro to Hadrian’sLibrary offers a wonderful view ofthe ancient Agora and Acropolis.d Map K3
Bernier/Eliades GalleryOne of Athens’ premiere
galleries, Bernier/Eliades exhibitsmore international artists than anyother in Athens, plus top Greekartists. d Eptachalkou 11 • Map A4
Benaki Islamic ArtMuseum
In a Neo-Classical town houseoverlooking Keramikos, four largeexhibition rooms display Islamicceramics, metalwork, wood-carvings, glassware and textiles.d Agion Asomaton 22 & Dipilou • MapB3 • 210 325 1311 • www.benaki.gr
IrakleidonLined with cafés, bars and
hipsters, this street feels bothold-world and fresh, and bustlesday and night. d Map A4
Flower MarketGreat bunches of colourful
flowers sold around the churchof St Irene. A good place to takepictures. d Plateia Ag Eirinis • Map K3• Early morning–early afternoon daily
ArtioOne of the best-established
of the cluster of Psiri galleries,Artio is known for promoting thework of cutting-edge conceptualartists. d Pallados 3 • Map J2 • noon–4pm & 6–9pm Tue–Fri, noon–4pm Sat
Plateia IroonQuintessential Psiri: the
square is surrounded by hip bars,old-fashioned tavernas, and dirt-cheap student hangouts. d Map J2
Cine PsiriThis great outdoor cinema
frequently shows black-and-whiteclassics and foreign films (in theoriginal and subtitled in Greek);the Athens News has listings.d Sarri 40–44 • Map B3 • 210 324 7234
First Synagogue of Athens Before World War II, this
area was the centre of Athens’thriving Jewish community. Thesynagogue is the oldest inAthens. Across the street, Beth-Salom Synagogue is now Athens’main community synagogue.d Melidoni 8 • Map B4
Athenaeum Maria CallasThis conservatory, named
after Greece’s native daughter,hosts the annual international
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either seconds (usually with novisible flaw) or one-off experi-mental lines. d Adrianou 50 • Map K4
Stavros Melissinos (the Poet Sandalmaker)
This smiling figure opened hisshop of lasting, handmade leathersandals in 1954, has expandedthe original few styles, and hasbecome a tourist attraction in hisown right. d AG. Theklas 2 • Map K3
Martinos AntiquesA legend in the Greek
antiques market, this three-floorshop gathers furniture, gold andsilver, paintings, carpets, booksand ornaments from all over theworld. d Pandrosou 50 • Map K3
AristokratikonUsing only the finest Greek
ingredients, freshly handmadeevery day, these chocolates arestrictly for connoisseurs.d Karageorgi Servias 9
KalyviotisThread and fabric, bead- and
button-filled shops populate thearea around Ermou and Perikleous.Kalyviotis is the best one-stophaberdashery. d Ermou 8 • Map L3
BaharThe whole area around the
central meat market teems withold, family-run shops selling trad-itional foodstuffs. Bahar is one ofthe best-known for herbs.d Evripidou 31 • Map K2
Palaiopoleio Alexandros
You never know what you mightunearth among the books, orna-ments and moth-eaten clothingpiled up in this potential treasuretrove. d Thisiou 10 • Map B4
Athens’ Flea MarketEverything under the sun,
from ancient coins to fake designersunglasses, frilly knickers and an-tiques at rock-bottom prices (p80).
KaterinaThis tiny alcove manages to
stock a fine selection of tradition-al wooden tavli (backgammon)boards. Prices from as low as€10. d Ifaistou 21 • Map J3
Boots & BeltsThis shop appears at first to
be a wardrobe store for wannabeHell’s Angels. But take in yourfavourite jeans and the owner,Pantelis, will make you an exactreplica in leather for only €300.d AG. Theklas 12 (2nd floor) • Map J3
SpiliopoulosCreations by top shoe
designers for as little as half thenormal retail price. How can theybe so cheap? These shoes are
Bargains, Antiques & Market Stalls
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Left Street seller Centre Athens’ Flea Market Right Antiques stalls
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Places to Eatview), fine surroundings matchexquisite Franco-Mediterraneancuisine. (See p57.) d Apostolou Pavlou51 • Map B4/5 • 210 345 0803 • €€€€€
Kitrino PodilatoServes innovative food in
style. Try the smoked salmonwith whisky. Plous Podilato is asister restaurant in Piraeus (seep106). d Kerameikou 114–116 • Map A3• 210 346 5830 • €€€€
HytraMediterranean cuisine in a
minimalist dining space broughtto hip Psiri by the owners ofSpondi (see p56). d NavarhouApostoli 7 • Map B4 • 210 331 6767 • €€€
MamacasTaverna food made stylish,
but with a deep respect for itsmost important element: bright,fresh flavour. (See p57.)d Persephonis 41, Gazi • €€
Aristera-DexiaFrom the gimmicky entrance
(playing on the name, “left-right”)to the cheeky toilets, you’re in fora good time. But the real draw isthe food. (See p56.) d Andronikou 3,Gazi • Closed Jul & Aug • €€€€
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Note: Unless otherwise stated, all restaurants accept credit cards and serve vegetarian meals
€ under €30€€ €30–€40
€€€ €40–€50€€€€ €50–€60
€€€€€ over €60
Price Categories
For a three-coursemeal for one with halfa bottle of wine (orequivalent meal), taxesand extra charges.
Café AeolisLadies who lunch and writer-
types fill this bright, trendy café forlight lunches and, later, the tablesoutside for wine and cocktails.d Aiolou 23 • Map K3 • €
ThanassisAthens’ most famous souvlaki
joint has been serving up hot, juicy,thinly sliced beef, slathered withcool garlicky tzatziki, wrapped intender pittas, since the 19thcentury. d Mitropoleos 69 • Map K3 • €
Café Avissynias While away Sunday after-
noons overlooking the Mona-stiraki market in this hidden belleépoque gem. French and Arabfood and music. d Plateia Avissynias• Map J3 • Closed Mon • €
OineasFun, high-quality, modern
taverna-food-with-a-twist. Shareone massive salad among five,then pass around bite-sized spana-kopitas (spinach pies) and bal-samic chicken. d Aisopou 9 • Map J2 • €
To Varoulko The menu at Athens’ top fish
restaurant changes daily depend-ing on what the sea brings forth.Sleek modern wood-and-glassinterior. d Pireos 80 • Map B3 • 210 5228400 • Closed Sun • €€€€
Pil PouleFrom the red-carpeted
entrance to the lovely marbleroof garden (with a gorgeous
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dimly lit by star-shaped lights andcandles. Sink in and enjoy thejazz. d Lepeniotou 1 • Map B4
Fidelio Pink and white swags from
the ceiling, candles dripping onold silver candelabras, antiquefurniture and Athens’ hipsters ofall ages relaxing. d Ogygou 2 &Apostoli • Map B4
SplitModels and scenesters dine
on Mediterreanean cuisine andpack the supercool bar aftermidnight. Face-check at the doorcan be daunting. d Kriezi 3 • Map B3
Soul Stylish but fun and informal.
It has a stunning courtyardgarden with Chinese lanterns,deep red walls and lush planting.d Evripidou 65 • Map B3
Mikra Asia The name means Asia Minor,
and this Turkish-and-Arab themedlounge sports aptly low couches,cushions, red lighting, colouredtiles and a huge picture of the cityGreeks still call Constantinople.d Konstantinoupoleos 70 • Map A2/3
Venue
On three levels, each withdifferent music, this is one ofAthens’ most exclusive clubs.Tricky getting in without connec-tions. Moves to the coast insummer. d Ag Eleousis &Kakourgodikeiou • Map J2/3
Alekos MetropolitanBeautiful people fill the cool,
silver-and-white interior of theAthens version of this restaurant/club, which originated onMykonos. d Mitropoleos • Map K3
Bee Bee buzzes with an arty,
mixed gay-and-straight crowdwho come for the funky decor,excellent food and friendly vibe.d Miaouli & Themidos • Map J3
Spirit BarA mixed crowd packs this
two-storey club, dominated by ahuge gold-beaded chandelier.There’s cosy seating and plentyof room for dancing to funk andtrip-hop. d Miaouli 13 • Map J2/3
CubanitaSerious Spanish and South
American dancers dominate thedancefloor nightly; if you’re not upto the challenge, just enjoy thegreat Cuban food and music.d Karaiskaki 28 • Map J2/3
ThirioIn this old house turned bar,
small stone rooms seem to followendlessly from one to another,
Nightspots
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THES
SALONIK IS
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86
EXARCHEIA AND OMONIA are among Athens’ oldest, most well-worn dis-tricts. Though neither qualifies as beautiful, both are steeped in history,
some of it quite recent. In 1973, the Polytechnic student uprising in Exarcheiawas crushed by the junta, but it did eventually lead to the fall of thehated military dictatorship. The students left behind aneighbourhood full of cafés alive with politicaldebate; this is also the best place to hear rembetika, thegritty Greek blues. Below Exarcheia is seedy, clamorousOmonia, and just beyond is the colourful marketplace district.
Left Plateia Exarcheia Centre Cultural Centre of Athens Right Strefi Hill
1 Central Market
2 Plateia Klafthmonos
3 City of Athens
Museum
4 Athens University and
Academy of Arts
5 Plateia Omonia
6 Plateia Exarcheia
7 Polytechnic
8 Epigraphical Museum
9 National
Archaeological
Museum
0 Pediou tou Areos
Sights
Left National Archaeological Museum Right Academy of Arts
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MavromateonBus Terminal
Victoria
Omonia
Panepistimio
Monastiraki
Areos
Vathis
Exarhia
Omonia Neapoli
Psir i
Pediou tou Areos
PlateiaKotzia
StrefiHill
PLATEIAAG IRINIS
PLATEIAIROON
PLATEIAOMONIA
PLATEIAKANINGOS
PLATEIAEXARHIA
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PLATEIAMAVROKORDATOU
PLATEIALYKAVITTOU
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CHALKOKONDYLI
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GE R
SOLOMOU
VERANZEROUSATOVRIANDOU
SOKR
ATO
US LYKOU RGOU
MAV
ROM
ATAI
ON
AFTO IRAKLEIOU
STOURNARI
FEIDIOU
E M M A N O U I L B E N A K I
K O L O K O T R O N I
TOSITSA
SPYR
IDO
NO
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IKO
UPI
Z O O D O C H O U P I G I S
MASSALIAS
S I N A
A M E R I K I S
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B O U S G O U
E R E S S OU
M A V R O M I CH A L I
OM IROU
O M I R O U
DI D
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LYKAVITTOU
S OLO
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P I N D A R O U
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ARIS
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AVEROF
RETH
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NO
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POU
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DE L IG IAN N N I
VALARITOU
PRAXITELOUS
I O U S T I N I A N O UPLAPOUTA
P O U L C H E R I A S
ANEXARTISIAS
SMOLENSKY
DE R V E N
I ONVALTETSIOU
D I M O K R I T O U
VOUKOURESTIOU
METHO
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SOFOKLEOUSSOFOKLEOUS
E V R I P I D O U AGIOI THEODOROI
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I PP O K R ATO U S
S KOU
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CHAR I LAOU TR I KOUP I
K A L L I DRO
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THEMISTOKLEOUS
L E O F O R O S A L E X A N D R A S28
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TO
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AG KONSTANTINOU 28
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PANAGI TSALDARI
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S T A DI O
UP A N
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0500 500yards metres
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Central MarketThe enormous meat, fish
and spice markets are a sensoryoverload, especially the first, butshouldn’t be missed by any butthe most squeamish. Severalrestaurants and even a rembeta-tiko dot the meat market, serv-ing up the sales of the day untildawn. Outside, the air aroundthe spice stores, centred onAthinas, is redolent with vanilla,saffron and dried mountain thyme.d Map K1/2 • 7am–3pm Mon–Sat
Plateia KlafthmonosThis square has long played
a role in Athens’ political history.Its name comes from the ancientGreek word for “crying”, which isapplied here becauseof the tradition ofpoliticians commiserat-ing at this square ifthey have sufferedelection losses. It isalso a site of rallies,demonstrations andconcerts. d Map L2
City of AthensMuseum
This was the firsthouse built in Athens
after it was declaredcapital of the newkingdom of Greece in1834. Otto, Greece’sfirst king, had it joinedwith next door, andlived here while hewaited for the firstRoyal Palace (nowParliament) to be built.Today the old residencehouses a collection ofpaintings and furnish-ings telling the moderncity’s history, with afocus on the War ofIndependence (seep34) and the first years
of the monarchy. d Paparrigopoulou 7• Map L2 • 210 324 6164 • 10:30am–6pmMon, Thu–Sun, noon–2pm Wed • Adm
Athens University andAcademy of Arts
The city’s university, Academy ofArts and National Library (seep90) make up a trio of the mostimportant Neo-Classical buildingsin Athens. The column basesand capitals of the universityentrance are replicas of those inthe Acropolis Propylaia, and theAcademy entrance draws fromthe eastern side of the Erech-theion. The university’s frescoesdepict personifications of thearts around the modern king,Otto. d Panepistimiou • Map L/M1–2
City of Athens Museum
Central Market
88
Plateia OmoniaOne hundred years ago,
Omonia was among the largest,most gracious and importantcentral squares in Athens. Thesedays, while still large and central,it is also the hang-out spot forprostitutes, porn peddlers, drugaddicts, street hawkers andbewildered tourists, as well as aconstant chaotic tangle of trafficand construction. Having said allthat, in preparation for the 2004Olympics, Omonia underwent amajor renovation, with artinstallations brought in, apedestrian walkway created anda scheme to restore its once-beautiful Neo-Classical façades.d Map C2
Plateia ExarcheiaIt may seem a little worn
around the edges, but this is theplace to be for all your liberalintellectual café-sitting needs.The roads leading up to it arecovered with graffiti decryingthe latest actions of Westernimperialist governments, andblanketed with leafletsadvertising the latestdemonstration of the
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17 November 1973The 1973 students of the
Polytechnic are the great heroesof the modern Greek state. On
17 November 1973, theydemonstrated against the junta,which had been in power since1967. The uprising was crushedwith tanks and guns. But theircourage eventually led to thejunta’s fall and the country’sliberation the following year.
week. De rigueur frappé-sippingattire is unruly hair, blackturtlenecks and messenger bags.Of course, there is also a jadedawareness of Exarcheia’s reputa-tion – as seen at the likes of thecutesy creperie called “Anarchy”.At night it’s an atmosphericplace to be as the rembetikamusic starts up. d Map D2
Polytechnic This is where the student
demonstrations in 1973 (see box)began. And in front of the Poly-technic there is a marble statueof a youth lying on the ground –a monument to the fallen heroesof the uprising. Every year on17 November, all of Greece’spoliticians turn out to put flowersat the memorial. d Map C/D1
Epigraphical Museum
Housed here is one ofthe world’s most pre-
cious collections ofancient inscrip-
tions, includingthe official
records ofearly
Academy of Arts
Fallen Student at the Polytechnic
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Start at Greece’s greatesttreasure storehouse: theNational Archaeological
Museum. Spend around90 minutes, making sureto see the MyceneanTreasure, Thira Frescoesand Classical statuary.
When leaving the museum,turn left on Patission, notingthe neighbouring Poly-
technic, scene of 1973’shistoric protests. Outsidethe building, a marble figurelies on the ground, memorial-izing the fallen students.
Turn left on Stournari, andhead for Plateia Exarcheia
for a frappé and to watchthe punks, anarchists andmodels go by. In summer,head to Yiantes (p92) foran alfresco lunch.
A Day Around Omonia
Morning
Afternoon
Athens, carved on stone andmarble slabs. It’s a fascinatingtrove of Athenean lore, and themost important exhibits include:a decree by the assembly ofAthens ordering the evacuationof the city before the Persianinvasion in 480 BC; a sacred lawconcerning temple-worship onthe Acropolis; and a stele carvedwith accounts of the construc-tion of the Erechtheion at theAcropolis some 2,400 years ago.d Tositsa 1 • Map D1 • 210 821 7637• 8:30 am–3pm Tue–Sun • Free
NationalArchaeological
MuseumThis almost peerless
collection is themother lode ofarchaeologicaldisplays in a
country that could arguably claim to bethe mother lode ofimportant archaeo-logical sites. High-lights include thegolden hoard of
Homer’s Mycenae and the greatClassical marble sculptures, pluseverything in between. (See alsopp16–17 and 46.)
Pediou tou Areos The largest park in Athens is
green and spacious, although notas densely planted and lovely asthe National Gardens. Despite itssize, Pediou tou Areos has moreof a feel of a neighbourhood park,with old ladies sitting on benchesand kids riding bikes. Because ofits close proximity to politicaland intellectual Exarcheia, it isoften the scene of rallies, out-door concerts and cultural eventssuch as the annual book fair.(See also p53.) d LeoforosAlexandras • Map D1
Dipylon Amphora,
Archaeological
Museum
Venture downhill on Themis-tokleous, where most ofGreece’s independentfilmmakers have theiroffices. Go through PlateiaOmonia, just to seeAthens’ most chaotic spot,but get out as quickly aspossible, on Athinas.
You’ll pass Athens City
Hall (see p90) on yourright before turning left onSophocleous. Go downthis street to see theNational Bank of Greece,built on stilts over part ofthe Themistoklean Wall.
Double back to get to thecity’s real heart – Central
Food Market (see p87).Lose yourself in the sights,sounds and smells of thestalls. If it’s not summer,finish up at Stoa Athana-
ton (see p93), the city’sbest rembetatiko, forfantastic music and adelicious traditional meal.
90
Best of the RestNational OperaThe acoustics aren’t great
and the Megaron Moussikisdraws far more internationalstars, but the loyal generationswho come in furs and lacqueredhairdos will always feel at homehere. d Akadimias 59–61 • Map L1
Cultural Centre of AthensFree exhibits by contemp-
orary Greek artists, a theatremuseum, and a lovely café withgreat people-watching potential.d Akadimias 50 • Map M1 • 210 3621601 • 9am–1pm, 5pm–9pm Tue–Sat
Agios Nikolaos PefkakiaBuilt in 1895, the church of
Agios Nikolaos Pefkakia (StNicholas of the Pines) crownsthe top of steep Dervenion, andis a looming landmark on all thestreets below. d Asklipiou • Map E2
Odos KallidromiouCome to the colourful Satur-
day street market here for a realfeeling of the vibrant communityof Exarcheia. d Map D2
Strefi HillIt’s not the
prettiest – or clean-est – hill in Athens,but it does give agreat view over thewhole of the gritty,soulful neighbour-hoods of Exarcheiaand Omonia. d Anex-artisias and EmmanouilBenaki • Map E1
National TheatreThe majestic outlines of
Hadrian’s Library served as themodel for this fine Neo-Classicalbuilding’s façade. Performancesby the National Theatre troupe areGreece’s finest. d Agiou Konstantinou22 • Map B2 • 210 522 3242
Athens City HallThe headquarters for manag-
ing Athens’ chaotic sprawl. Thearchaeological dig in front revealsan area just outside Athens’ oldcity walls. d Athinas 63 • Map J1
Rebecca Camhi GalleryThis gallery presents both
Greek and foreign contemporaryartists. Visits by appointment.Check the website for currentexibitions. d Themistokleous 80 (3rdfloor) • Map D2 • www.rebeccacambi.com
Agioi TheodoroiA tiny, peaceful 11th-century
church in the bustle of themarketplace. The wall paintingsare 19th century. d Plateia AgionTheodoron • Map K2
NationalLibrary
One of the impor-tant Neo-Classicaltrio of downtownbuildings (see p87).Venture in to admirethe library’s gor-geous reading room.d Panepistimiou 28–29• Map L1 • 9am–2pmMon–Fri
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91
sheets and towels, crockery andcutlery. d Solonos 80 • Map D3
EleftheroudakisSeven storeys of English and
Greek books plus a branch ofKolonaki’s Food Company, whereweary browsers can rest theirlegs and enjoy a slice of carrotcake. d Panepistimiou 17 • Map M2
ZolotasCelebrated for its intricate
creations in hammered gold,Zolotas jewellery has long beenone of Athens’ most treasuredbrands. d Panepistimiou 10 • Map M2
KaravanChoose from the scrumptious
baklava and kataifi at this tiny butdeservedly popular alcove of ashop. d Voukourestiou 11 • Map M2
Zoumboulakis Gallery This celebrated art gallery
and shop has a spectacularselection of original paintingsand signed, numbered prints bymany of Greece’s finest artists.
d Kriezotou 7 • Map M3
Athens DesignCentre
Bold, bright bowls,platters, vases andornaments, somedecorated withstripes, zigzags andnaïve painted fruit,others just left plainand natural. d Valari-tou 4 • Map M2
LoumidisThis vast corner coffee shop
specializes in the traditional Greek/Turkish brew, selling a selectionof brikia in which to boil it, cupsand saucers, and sweet treats.d Aiolou 106 • Map C2
LambropoulosLambropoulos is one of the
few department stores in thiscountry of small shops and bou-tiques, with an impressive rangeof local and international goods.d Aiolou 99 • Map C3
Stoa tou VivliouIn the midst of the bustling
commercial heart of Athens, thistranquil, recently renovated arcadegathers together a wealth of book-shops, binders and antiquarianoutlets. d Between Panepistimiou,Pezmazoglou & Stadiou • Map C3
Nakas MusicalInstruments
Five floors of everything a musi-cian could need or desire, fromtraditional painted bouzoukia tofragile violins, sheetmusic, DJ decks,mixers and veryloud speakers.d Navarinou 13 & Mavromichali • Map D2/3
TsitourasLavish, extra-
vagant and beautifulhousehold objects,wedding and chris-tening gifts, bed-
Places to Shop
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92
Ouzeries and MezedopoleiaKafeneion to Naufayio ton Aggelon
Original floor tiles still pave thesetwo tiny rooms, the Angel’s Ship-wreck. Duck downstairs foroctopus and garlicky beetrootwith your ouzo. d Stournari 41 • MapC2 • 210 380 7061 • €
AthinaikonA beloved central Athens
institution, especially amongjournalists, who trade stories atthe marble-topped tables. Theplentiful mezes are consistentlygood. d Themistokleous 2 • Map C2• 210 383 8485 • €
Meat Market RestaurantEverything’s made from the
market wares of the day, and it’sopen ‘til dawn. Clubbers headhere after long nights. d Map J1 • €
DiportoFood market denizens fill the
place with smoke and laughter.Point to your pick in the kitchen,and fill your glass from barrelson the wall. d Theatrou 1 • Map J1
• 8am–6pm Mon–Sat • €
KlimatariaIn a grey, seedy
part of Omoniastands this warm,old-world taverna.The floors are paint-ed red, the winebarrels decoratedwith vibrant flowers.d Plateia Theatrou 2 • MapJ1 • 210 321 6629 • €
EfemeroTwo cats wind around wood-
en benches in this old Athenshouse waiting for generouspatrons to toss them scraps ofthe excellent pork roasted withpeppercorns and olives. d Themis-tokleous & Methonis • Map D2 • €
Barba YannisThere’s no sign, but you’ll
spot this cult favourite by allthe students tucking into UncleJohn’s hearty dirt-cheap dishes.d Emmanouil Benaki 94 • Map D2 • €
Cookou FoodTaverna dishes with a twist
and a pinch of spice are servedin this funky, gay-friendly eatery.d Themistokleous 66 • Map D2 • 210 3831955 • €
YiantesCreative taverna classics –
chicken with honey, raisins andcoriander – served in a beautifulcourtyard. Most of the produceis organic. d Valtetsiou 44 • Map D2• 210 330 1369 • €
Taverna RozaliaHipsters and
locals flock to thispleasant, family-owned mezedopo-leion. It has a cosy,wood-beamed inter-ior that’s ideal forwinter and a court-yard for lazy summernights. d Valtetsiou 58 •Map D2 • 210 330 2933 • €
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Note: In Ouzeries and Mezedopoleia it is customary to pay in cash;vegetarian dishes are plentiful. For price categories see p101
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93
Decadence (Rock Alternative)
Greek alternative music kids andhipsters flock here to dance tothe likes of Scotland’s Belle &Sebastian and Australia’s princeof darkness, Nick Cave. d Voul-garoktonou 69 & Poulcherias 2 • Map E1
StathmosTacky decor and overpriced
drinks, but there’s no denying theenthusiasm of the crowds ofGreeks swaying to their favouritesongs. d Mavrommataio 22 • Map D1
Rembetiki IstoriaThe original moulded walls
and ceilings of this favourite bar,tucked into an early 20th-centurybuilding, are a nice contrast withthe earthy music. d Ippokratous 181• Map E2
Parafono A great little jazz and blues
cabaret that for 20 years has at-tracted some of the best namesin the business to its small stage,draped with plush red curtains.
d S Kinnis 1 & Asklipeiou130 • Map F2
KavourasA dark and
smoky rembetatikoden upstairs: all-night souvlaki jointunder the samename can be foundon the ground floor.dThemistokleous 64 •Map D2
Stoa AthanatonAthens’ premiere rembeta-
tiko, open day and night. Old-timers with cigars shower musi-cians with flowers, and, whenthe mood strikes, dance to grittysongs of heartbreak. Reserve onFriday and Saturday. d Centralmarket (in arcade) • Map J1
Rodon-Live RockThis converted cinema is an
institution in Athens’ thrivingrock scene. Iggy Pop, Screamin’Jay Hawkins, Metallica and manyin between have graced thestage. d Marni 24 • Map C2
BoemissaThe bland decor belies the
wild scenes that come to lifeafter 2am. One of the fewrembetatika to draw a primarilyyoung, hip crowd with its gypsyblues. d Solomou 13 • Map C2
AnOne of Athens’ oldest and
best-loved live music clubs,showcasing rock and alternativebands. Rave partiesafter 1am. d Solomou13–15 • Map C2
TaximiMost of Greece’s
greatest rembetatikamusicians have playedhere, and the atmo-sphere retains some-thing of a bygoneage. d Charilau Trikoupi& Isavron 29 • Map E2
Rembetatika and Rock Clubs
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Rembetatika are clubs specializing in rembetika, often dubbedthe “Greek blues”
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PLATEIA SYNTAGMA IS THE CENTRE OF MODERN ATHENS,crowned by the large, Neo-Classical Parliament building. Stand-ing sentry outside are the evzones – soldiers marching solemnly
back and forth in traditional short skirts and pompommedshoes. By Parliament, on the wide, tree-lined avenue ofVasilissis Sofias is Museum Row: many of Athens’ finest
museums are here. Behind Syntagma is posh Kolonaki,home to ambassadors, models, movie stars and the fabulousdesigner boutiques that cater to them. This is the prime spot forshopping, people-watching and glamorous but pricey café-sitting.Rising above it all is Lykavittos Hill, topped by a famous outdoortheatre, and gorgeous cafés and restaurants with a view to die for.
Left Kallimarmaro Stadium Centre Plateia Syntagma Right Benaki Museum
1 Kallimarmaro Stadium
2 National Gardens
3 National Parliament
Building
4 Syntagma Metro
Station
5 Evzones
6 Benaki Museum
7 Museum of Cycladic
Art
8 Byzantine Museum
9 War Museum
0 Lykavittos Hill
Sights
Museum of Cycladic Art
Syntagma and Kolonaki
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ZappeionGardens
LofosArdittou
AlsosPagkratiou
Ly k a v i t t o sH i l l
PLATEIAPLASTIRA
PLATEIAPAGKRATIOU
PLATEIADANTE
PLATEIAKITSIKI
NIKOLAO
PLATEIAKOLONAKI
PLATEIADEXAMENI
PLATEIALYKAVITTOU
AGIOUSPYRIDONOS
PLATEIASTADIOU
PLATEIATROUMAN
VALARITOU
EVELPIDOS ROGKAKOU
S I N A
FOKILIDOU
DIMOKRITOU
VOUKOURESTIOU
TSAKALOF
SARANTAPICHOU
AR I ST I P POU
SPEFSIPPOU
KLEOM E NOU S
A L O P E K I S
IPSILANTOU
ARISTOD
IMO
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XENOKRATOUS
DORAS D’ISTRIA
OIT IS
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PLATEIASYNTAGMA
MO UROUZI
ANDREA METAXA
ASKL I P IOU
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S I N A
AMER IK I S
OMIROU
OMIROU
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MILIONI
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A K A DI M
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L E O F O R O S VG E O R G I O U B
E F T Y C H I D O UEF R ANORO
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ERATOSTHENOUS
A R C H I M I D O U S
I PPOKR ATOUS
SKOUFA
SOLO
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P INDAROU
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LEOF VA
SILISS
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LEOF VASILISSIS OLGAS
E L E F T H E R I O U V E N I Z E L O U ( V S O F I A S )
YMITTOU
L E O F O R O S
V A S I LE O S
K O N S T A N T I N
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PANEPISTIMIOU
0500 500yards metres
Evzone
soldier
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Kallimarmaro StadiumThe formal name of this
stadium is the Panathenaic, butit’s more commonly known asKallimarmaro, meaning “beautifulmarble”. Built in 330 BC for thePanathenaic games, it later fellinto disuse. In 1895, GeorgeAveroff had it restored with finePentelic marble, and it hosted thefirst modern Olympics in 1896. In2004, it provided the final circuitfor the Olympic Marathon andalso hosted the archerycompetition. (See p62.) d VasKonstantinou • Map N6 • 8:30am–1pm &3:30pm–7pm Mon–Fri
National GardensThe huge, shady National
Gardens are an unexpected greenrefuge in parched central Athens.They were originally planted in1839 as the Royal Garden ofQueen Amalia, who had her hor-ticulturalists bring in 15,000domestic and exotic plants, manyof which remain. The garden wasopened to the public in 1923.Many statues dot the garden.It also has a small zoo, a duckpond and a playground. (Seep52.) d Amalias • Map M4
National ParliamentBuilding
The imposing building wasconstructed in 1842 as a palace
for Otto, Greece’s first king afterindependence. Over the next 70years, it suffered neglect and in1923, during a housing shortage,it acted as a homeless shelter.After the return of parliamentarygovernment in 1926, the buildingwas gutted, renovated and re-opened as a single-chambercouncil for parliament. Today it isthe scene of debates that rangefrom the hilariously surreal to thestultifyingly boring, viewable onstate television via a live videolink. Its library can be visited.d Plateia Syntagma • Map M3 • Library:9am–1:30pm Mon–Fri
Syntagma Metro StationSyntagma station is as much
museum as transport hub. Whenthe city was busy excavating to
extend the metro,archaeologists foundthousands of pricelessitems on this site,which has been con-tinuously occupiedsince Classical times.Many are displayed inthe station, but thehighlight is a glasswall overlooking thesite, which includes.at least two cemeter-ies. (See p44.) d Map M3
National Gardens
National Parliament Building
96
EvzonesOn guard in front of Parlia-
ment are the famous evzones,soldiers in the traditional attire ofthe rebels who won the War ofIndependence. It’s hard to imaginefighting efficiently in this uniform:a short white skirt (with 400pleats, symbolizing the years underTurkish rule), red cap, and redpompommed shoes. The changingof the guard is like a slow high-kick dance. Evzones are selectedfrom the tallest andhandsomest men inthe mandatory Greekmilitary service. d MapM3 • Changing of the guardevery hour
Benaki MuseumThe Benaki is one
of Greece’s pre-eminent museums,not only for its exten-sive and top-notch col-lection of prehistoricto 20th-century Greekart, but also becauseit’s a lovely place to be. Amongits highlights are the re-creationsof Ottoman-style sitting rooms in18th-century northern Greek man-sions, and sumptuous Byzantineshrines. The superb books andjewellery in the gift shop and therooftop garden restaurant aredestinations in themselves. (Seepp22–3 and 47.)
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Ziller the ThrillerWhen German King Otto was
established as the first monarchafter independence, he broughtwith him architect Ernst Ziller to
rebuild the city. Ziller’s pumped-upNeo-Classicism can be seen in
buildings such as the Cycladic Mu-seum, the Numismatic Museum
(p98) and King Constantine’sPalace – today, the official
Presidential mansion (p98).
Museum of Cycladic ArtSome 2,000 years before
the Parthenon, a mysteriouscivilization on the Cycladic islandscreated the prototypical Mediter-ranean marble sculptures:simple, elemental female forms.The figures still resonate today,famously influencing artists likeModigliani and Picasso. TheGoulandris family, one of Greece’soldest shipping and philanthropicdynasties, displays the world’s
largest collection ofCycladic art in abeautifully restoredNeo-Classical man-sion. There are oftenexhibits by top con-temporary Greek andinternational artists inthe extra-swanky newwing. (See pp18–19and 47.)
ByzantineMuseum
The museum’s 15,000objects (only a fraction
of which are displayed at anyone time) date from the 3rd tothe 19th century, chronicling therise and decline of the greatByzantine Empire. There arepriceless sculptures, icons andrichly worked gold and silverreligious trappings. The perma-nent collection is housed in asmart new two-level space builtpartially underground, whichopened in summer 2004. (Seepp28–9 and 47.)
War MuseumThe two huge floors telling
the history of warfare in Greecefrom prehistoric to modern timesmight not be everyone’s cup oftea, but most will enjoy theSaroglos collection, includingmedieval suits of armour, three-musketeer-type duelling foils,
Byzantine Museum
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Start at Plateia Syntagma
a few minutes before thehour to see the changingof the guard in front ofthe Tomb of the UnknownSoldier. Then head upVasilissis Sofias to theMuseum of Cycladic Art
to ponder the mysteriousprehistoric marble sculp-tures. Be sure to check outwhatever temporary exhi-bition is on at the adjoiningStathatos Mansion – theyare usually small butworld-class shows.
Then it’s on to Plateia
Kolonaki for a frappé anda pastry at one of theroadside cafés and somestellar people-watching.The parade of wealthywives, pretty playboys andGreek starlets providesrecompense for overpriceddrinks – just sip slowly!
An Afternoon in Chic Kolonaki
Mid-Afternoon
Late Afternoon
War Museum
and fabulous engraved Turkishscimitars. Outside, there areseveral fighter planes and tanks –visitors are allowed to climb upand take a look in the cockpits ofmost of them. (See p47.) d VasSofias • Map E/F4 • 9am–2pm Tue–Sun • Adm
Lykavittos HillSteep Lykavittos Hill juts high
out of Kolonaki, and the church atits peak is visible for miles around.Every summer, the LykavittosFestival hosts a variety of topmusicians from around the worldin the theatre close to the church;there’s nothing like watching BobDylan or Guru with the sun goingdown over Athens behind them(see p61). A smart café-restaurant nestles below thechurch. If you are very, veryambitious, walk up – otherwise,take the funicular from Aristipou.d Map F2
Lykavittos Hill
Afterwards, fan out fromthe square for some seriousshopping or browsing ofthe shop windows andeyeing patrons at Folli
Follie, Prasini and Elena
Votsi (see p99), as well asfamiliar internationalstables such as Gucci,Armani and Versace.
Towards the end of theday, go to the funicularstation at the foot ofLykavittos Hill. Thoughclose to Plateia Kolonaki,the walk is quite steep, soif you’re feet are tired youcan take the 060 minibusfrom the square or a two-minute taxi ride. From thehilltop at dusk, watch thesky turn violet over Athens,while enjoying a drink atthe café, or a truly specialmeal at Orizontes
restaurant (see p101).
98
Best of the RestMuseum of the History ofGreek Costume
Over 6,000 items of clothing,jewellery and adornments showingthe variety of Greek dress throughthe ages. d Dimokritou 7 • Map M2• 10am–1:30pm Mon–Fri • Free
Plateia KolonakiThe hottest spot for people-
watching in trendy Kolonaki. Enjoyoverpriced drinks and watch thebeautiful people go by. d Map N3
Plateia DexameniGreener and lower-key than
Plateia Kolonaki, and home toone of Athens’ nicest outdoorcinemas. d Map N/P2
Friday Morning StreetMarket
One of Athens’ most vital fruit ‘n’veg markets. d Xenokratous • Map P2
Gennadius LibraryThis library of multilingual
volumes is among the world’sbest for all subjects Hellenistic.d Souidias 61 • Map F3 • 9am–5pm Mon–Wed & Fri, 9am–8pm Thu, 9am–2pm Sat
Zappeion The 19th-century Zappeion
stands in pleasant grounds at thesouthern end of the NationalGardens. Its tree-lined paths areopen to the public, while theZappeion itself hosts internationalconferences. d Map M5
Presidential Palace andMaximou Mansion
The former palace of King Constan-tine was designed by Ernst Ziller(p96). Next door, Maximou is thePrime Minister’s official residence– though present incumbent CostasSimitis prefers his Kolonaki apart-ment. d Corner of Irodou Attikou andVasileos Georgiou • Map N4
Tomb of the Unknown Soldier
A dying soldier, carved in 1930 onthe wall in front of the Parliament,commemorates Greece’s war deadsince the War of Independence(p34). d Plateia Syntagma • Map M3
National HistoricalMuseum
Greece’s first parliament building,this is now a museum special-izing in the War of Indepen-dence. d Stadiou 13, Plateia Kolokotroni• Map L2 • 9am–2pm Tue–Sun • Adm
Numismatic Museum/Schliemann’s House
This collection of coinage ishoused in the mansion of HeinrichSchliemann, discoverer of theMycenae treasure. d Panepistimiou 12• Map M2 • 8:30am–3pm Tue–Sun • Adm
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PrasiniOffering some of the very
best in Greek, Spanish andItalian shoe design, Prasini is ahot favourite for wistful windowshoppers and Athens’ manycredit-card-wielding shoe-aholics.d Tsakalof 7–9 • Map N2
Elena VotsiOne of the up-and-coming
names on the internationaljewellery circuit, Votsi’s chunky,rough-edged investment piecesare worth every penny of theirpricey tags. d Xanthou 7 • Map N/P2
KalogirouStocks an overwhelming
array of designer shoes and awide selection of Kalogirou’sown stylish creations. d PatriarchouIoakeim 4 • Map P2
Lena Katsanidou – Where to Wear
Lena Katsanidou’s Kolonaki bou-tique and upstairs atelier sellshighly desirable items includingher signature line of bold, heavy-weight earrings fashioned insilver and bronze. d Alopekis 17 &Loukianou • Map P2/3
Folli FollieAttractive, high-quality and
affordably priced watches, neck-laces, bracelets, bags and otheraccessories. d Solonos 25 • Map N2
Antonios MarkosAs well as his quirky own-
label tailoring, Markos imports aneclectic mix of items from bothworld-famous and lesser-knownbrands. d Skoufa 21 • Map N2
AmelieConcept cake shopping. This
exceptionally chic patissier sellsdelectable pastel-hued macaroons,chocolates and desserts. d Pin-darou 29 & Anagnostopoulou • Map N2
YeshopEdgy, directional pieces from
one of Greece’s brightest youngdesign stars. Yiorgos Eleftheriadesspecializes in distressed tailoringand unique designs for fashion-able guys and girls. d Pindarou 38• Map N2
BettinaBettina’s impressive stock
includes international labelsalongside Greece’s own AngelosFrentzos and Sophia Kokosalaki.d Pindarou 40 • Map N2
Optika ArathymosCheck out a wide selection of
the latest and trendiest designershades at this small, well-stockedshop, where the staff areknowledgeable and the pricesreasonable. d Kanari 10 • Map N3
Chic Boutiques
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Hot Nightspotsacross the road the indoor areahas designer furniture and ab-stract art. d Kleomenous 2 • Map P2
Rock ‘n’ RollThere is nothing rock ‘n’ roll
about this Kolonaki classic, justvintage hits, suited businessmentucking into steak and chips anda Saturday post-shopping crowd.d Loukianou & Ipsilantou 6 • Map P3
DragosteThis popular nightclub gets
overcrowded at weekends asAthens’ young and beautiful flockto enjoy the underground/worldmusic and decadent atmosphere.d Patriarchou Ioakeim 37 • Map P2
Charitos Summer or winter, rain or
shine, this small pedestrianizedsection of street lined with tinybars is always a hive of festivityand conviviality. d Map P2
BalthazarIn the gardens of an exquisite
Neo-Classical mansion, this ele-gant bar and restaurant draws anattractive crowd. d Tsoha & Soutsou27 • 210 644 1215
MommyThis small, diverse bar and
restaurant takes over the neigh-bouring pavements at weekendsas patrons spill out, drinks in hand.d Delfon 4 • Map M1 • 210 361 9682
SkoufakiSmall, dimly lit, smoky and full
of artists and actor types, Skoufakiis Kolonaki’s most famous,longest-established alternativecafé and bar. d Skoufa 47–49 • Map M1
Jackson HallThis all-American diner serves
beer and burgers with friesamong film-star memorabilia. But,this being Kolonaki, Fashion TVplays on large screens and thewaitresses are skimpy model-types. d Milioni 4 • Map N2
CentralThe hottest drinking and
socializing spot in town. Packedfrom mid-afternoon onwards atthe weekends, when the beautifulpeople drop in. d Plateia Kolonaki 14• Map N3 • 210 724 5938
Sea SatinDrink and eat the chic Greek
way at this atmospheric fish tav-erna and bar where designer-clad30-somethings dance on thetables to bouzouki-with-a-beat hits.d Fokilidou 1 • Map N2 • 210 361 9646
FrameUltra-cool lounge bar and
restaurant. The all-white summergarden is set in a peaceful park;
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tomatoes and capers. d Milioni 7• Map N2 • 210 364 3353 • €€
RatkaA Kolonaki classic, this dis-
tinguished restaurant is still thepreferred dining scene of Athens’elite. Serves a global mix of dishesin refined surroundings. d Charitos30 • Map P2 • 210 729 0746 • €€€
To OuzadikoHidden away in an arcade in
Kolonaki’s heart, this eatery isrenowned for its traditionalmezes, fresh fish and impressivecollection of spirits. d Karneadou25–29 • Map P3 • 210 729 5484 • €€
L’AbreuvoirTraditional French cuisine is
offered in style at this establish-ed Athenian society haunt.Specializes in meat dishes withextravagant sauces. d Xenokratous51 • Map F3 • 210 722 9106 • €€€€
BoschettoPosh and pricey, this Italian
nouvelle cuisine restaurant isprime dining and has an admirablewine list. d Vasilissis Sofias 46 • MapF4 • 210 721 0893 • €€€€€
OrizontesEnjoy a panoramic view of the
capital while feasting on creativeMediterranean and fusion cuisineat the top of Lykavittos Hill.d Map P1 • 210 722 7065 • €€€€
KikuThe original and best of the
city’s now plentiful sushi restau-rants. An impeccably presented,tempting selection. d Dimokritou 12• Map N2 • 210 364 7033 • €€€€
Food CompanyHealthy home cooking and a
cosy atmosphere make this tinyeatery a firm favourite for bothlunch and informal supper. Limitedseating. d Anagnostopoulou 47 • MapN2 • 210 363 0373 • €
MaritsasSit out on the pavement at
this traditional, low-profile tavernaand enjoy simple and deliciousGreek cuisine. Don’t miss thedelectable kolokithokeftedes(courgette fritters). d Voukourestiou47 • Map N2 • 210 363 0132 • €€
Kanari CornerSummer diners in this
surprisingly quiet spot tuck into alimited but tasty selection ofpastas, salads, grilled meat anddesserts. d Akadimias & Kanari 10• Map M2 • 210 361 7157 • €€
PrytaneioModern Athenian dining at
its best. An enticing special isthe sea bass with sundried
Places to Eat and Drink
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Note: Unless otherwise stated, all restaurants accept credit cards and serve vegetarian meals
€ under €30€€ €30–€40
€€€ €40–€50€€€€ €50–€60
€€€€€ over €60
Price Categories
For a three-coursemeal for one with halfa bottle of wine (orequivalent meal), taxesand extra charges.
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RENOWNED FOR SEEDY PORTSIDE CAFÉS, Piraeus is the gateway from Athens to the islands. Abandoned after a glorious ancient birth, it was
only redeveloped in 1834. Islanders from Chios, Hydra and Syros set up thefirst factories, joined by an influx of refugees from Asia Minor in 1922. It soonbecame the country’s main industrial centre, and is now the third-largestMediterranean port. It underwent a huge makeover for the 2004 Olympics, whengiant cruisers served as floating hotels to boost the city’s accommodation.
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PasalimaniThis large circular bay, with a
bottleneck channel opening out tothe sea, is surrounded by impos-ing eight-storey modern apartmentblocks. Inaugurated as Athens’main naval base in the 5th centuryBC, the ancient harbour of Zeacould accommodate 196 triremes(see p40)). Today, up to 400 ofthe most impressive motor yachtsin Greece moor here. It takesabout 20 minutes to walk the peri-meter of the bay, along a tree-lined promenade over-looked by open-air cafés.
Hellenic MaritimeMuseum
Housed in a 1960s build-ing by the harbour, thisexhibition opens with amap of Odysseus’s voy-age across the Mediter-ranean. It then traces thehistory of Greek navaltrading, with models ofships ranging from the5th-century BC triremeto modern tankers (Greece hasthe largest merchant fleet in theworld). Naval warfare is coveredby massive oil paintings of his-toric sea battles against the Turks,plus flags captured from them.d Akti Themistokleous, Freatida • 210 4286959 • 9am–2pm Tue–Fri, 9am–1:30pmSat • Adm
Akti ThemistokleousFrom Freatida, a 3-km (2-mile)
long lantern-lined coastal prom-enade, overlooked by modernapartment blocks and a string ofinformal fish restaurants, offerswonderful views across the opensea to the islands of Aegina andSalamina. The route, named afterthe 5th-century BC general andstatesman Themistokles, whofounded Piraeus, follows thecourse of the ancient seawardwalls. Down below, a series of
rocky bays offers thechance of bathing. Theprettiest spot of all isAphrodite’s Bay.
ArchaeologicalMuseum of Piraeus
Standing by the remainsof the 2nd-century BCTheatre of Zea, the show-pieces here are twoClassical bronze statuesfound in Piraeus in 1959:the proud and perfectlyproportioned 5th-century
BC Piraeus Apollo and the 4th-century BC Piraeus Athene. Alsoon display is a collection of 5th-and 4th-century BC marble stele(classical gravestones) withtouching reliefs of the deceased.d Odos Charilaou Trikoupi 32 • 210 4521598 • 8:30am–3pm Tue–Sun • ClosedAug and public hols • Adm
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MikrolimanoBest known for its excellent
fish restaurants with open-airwaterside terraces, this delight-ful small, circular bay is built on ahuman scale. The ancients, whokept their ships here, believed itwas protected by the goddessMunichia Artemis, and initiallynamed it after her. The Turkishnavy used it too, which is why itis still sometimes known as Tour-kolimano (Turkish harbour). Todayit is filled with the small woodenboats of local fishermen, whosupply the surrounding restau-rants from their daily catch.
Yacht Club of GreeceEurope’s top destination for
yachters, thanks to its myriadislands, Greece has a 3,500-yeartradition of sailing. Set in land-scaped gardens on a peninsulaon the south side of Mikrolimano,the yacht club was founded in1934. The main clubhouse is theprovince of membersonly, but you can strollaround the marina,then stop for a drinkat the chic rooftopcafé (see p106).d Mikrolimano
Kastella Built into the
hillside of Profitis Ilias,which overlooksMikrolimano, thispicturesque residential
quarter is filled with pastel-coloured Neo-Classical houses,built between 1834 and 1900,and a labyrinth of steep streetsand stairways. There’s a villageatmosphere here, making it agreat area to explore on foot. Thehighest point is crowned by thechurch of Profitis Ilias and theBowling Centre Café (see p107),which offers spectacular viewsof Athens, while nearby thesmall open-air Veakeio Theatre isused for staging delightfulsummer performances.
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Lion of PiraeusDuring medieval times the mainport of Piraeus was known asPorto Leone in tribute to a 3-m(10-ft) tall ancient marble lion,which stood on the site of thepresent Town Hall. In 1688, the
Venetians carried it off and placedit in the Arsenale in Venice. Therespective city councils are now
negotiating its return.
Kastella
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105
Sunday Morning FleaMarket
Directly behind Piraeus metrostation, in a street parallel to therailway line, this is often comparedto Athens’ Monastiraki Sundaymarket (see p80), though it’sdecidedly grottier. It gets verycrowded, attracting tourists,Athenians and local minorities:Albanian immigrants have severalshops selling Albanian flags andmusic, while colourfully dressedgypsies hawk seasonal fruit andnuts. d Omiridou Skilitsi • 8am–2pm Sun
Peace and FriendshipStadium
Close to Neo Faliro metro station,this bowl-shaped concrete struc-ture was opened in 1985. Sincethen it has hosted numeroussporting events, including the1997 European Basketball Cham-pionship, which Greece won, andthe 1998 World Basketball Cham-pionship. It is also used for rockconcerts. At the 2004 Olympicsit hosted the volleyball matches.d Off Tzavella Makariou
Battleship Averoff Built in Livorno (Italy) in
1910, this 140-m (460-ft) longbattleship was designed to carry670 men in peacetime and 1,200during war, and led the Greekfleet through the Balkan Warsand World Wars I and II.Negotiating a series of narrowladders, you can explore theentire ship, from the kitchen andengine rooms to the mainbridge, from the cramped darkspace where the crew slept inhammocks, to the contrastingluxury of the officers’ mess andthe Admiral’s sumptuous woodenpanelled suite. d Trokantero Marina,Palaio Faliro • 210 983 6539 • 9am–1pm,3pm–5pm Mon & Wed–Fri; 9am–1pm Tue& Thu, 9am–4pm Sat–Sun • Adm
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From Athens, take themetro to Piraeus, then walkto the Archaeological
Museum (see p103) andcheck out some of theancient local finds.
Continue to Pasalimaniand stop for a coffee atCafé Freddo (p107)overlooking the water. Takethe time for a stroll aroundthe harbour to admire thetop-notch boats.
For a relaxed, indulgentlunch call at Achinos
(p106), offering fantasticsea views; otherwise walkthe seafront promenade ofAkti Themistokleous for areasonably priced informalfeast of fresh fish atMargaro (p106).
Take the metro to NeoFaliro, then negotiate abusy main road past thePeace and Friendship
Stadium, one of Piraeus’sbeachside venues thatwas used for the 2004Olympic Games.
Continue south from thestadium to arrive at thepretty fishing harbour ofMikrolimano – less glitzyand more picturesque thanthe more central bays.
Here you’ll find a string ofwaterside seafood res-taurants, the best-knownof which is Jimmy and
the Fish (p106).
After dinner, either escapefor a romantic nightcap onthe pleasant Don Kihotis
roof terrace (p107), or jointhe swelling crowds atNeon (p107), one of thecafé-bars with brash musicand open-air seating onAkti Dilaveri.
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106
Places to EatAchinos Romantic split-level restaurant-
bar built into a cliff overlookingthe sea. Creative fish, meat andcheese mezes. d Akti Themistokleous51, Freatida • 210 452 6944 • €€
Diasimos Two blue-fronted buildings
comprise this popular ouzeri andpsarotaverna, with lovely viewsfrom its seafront terrace. d AktiThemistokleous 306, Freatida • 210 4514887 • €€
Margaro A rather limited but heavenly
selection of fresh seafoodincluding whitebait, mullet,bream and shrimps. d Chatzikyri-akou 126 • 210 451 4226 • Closed Sundinner and Aug • No credit cards • €
Vassilenas A set meal of 16 mezes,
served up in a steady stream tosnack upon. There’s a fixed price,and you are advised to bookahead. d Etolikou 72, Agia Sofia • 210461 2457 • Closed Sun and Aug • Nocredit cards • €
Kollias Kollias serves
reasonably priceddelicious fresh fish,and unusual Greekseafood dishes. It isbest reached by taxias it is not central.d Plastira 3, Tabouria• 210 462 9620 • ClosedSun • €€
Pisina Centred on an open-air
swimming pool, this modern bar-restaurant is stylish but relaxed.d Marina Zeas, Pasalimani • 210451 1324 • €€
DourabeisSince 1932 Dourabeis has
charmed diners with its sublimefresh fish, simply grilled anddressed with lemon and olive oil.d Akti Dilaveri 29, Mikrolimano • 210 4122092 • €€€
Plous PodilatoThe cool, sleek decor at Plous
Podilato complements an innova-tive approach to seafood. d AktiKoumoundourou 42, Mikrolimano • 210413 7910 • €€€
Jimmy & the FishWaiters carry platters of
smoked tuna and rocket, andpans of lobster to diners on therestaurant’s harbourside terrace.d Akti Koumoundourou 46, Mikrolimano• 210 412 4417 • €€€€
Archeon Gefsis Ancient Epicur-
ean classics, such assuckling pig stuffedwith liver, apple,chestnuts and raisins,are served, much asthey would havebeen back in the3rd century BC.d Epidaurou 10, Kastella• 210 413 8617• www.arxaion.gr • €€
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Note: Unless otherwise stated, all restaurants accept credit cards and serve vegetarian meals
€ under €30€€ €30–€40
€€€ €40–€50€€€€ €50–€60
€€€€€ over €60
Price Categories
For a three-coursemeal for one with halfa bottle of wine (orequivalent meal), taxesand extra charges.
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Love Café Much hyped bar-restaurant
with loud music, young clientele,and 1970s’ interior of whiteplastic furniture with splashes ofvibrant red. d Akti Koumoundourou58, Mikrolimano
Istioploikos One of the hip places to see
and be seen, this vast (andpacked) rooftop bar commands avantage point above the yachtingmarina. d Yacht Club, Mikrolimano• Open mid-Mar–early Nov
Bowling Centre Café A vast terrace with stunning
views from Kastella across thesea to Athens compensates foran impersonal, dated interior.d Profitis Ilias, Kastella
Café Freddo With comfy wicker chairs in
a garden overlooking the boatsat Pasalimani, stop here for amorning coffee, an afternoon icecream, a pre-dinner cocktail or aGreek brandy nightcap. d PlateiaAlexandras 1, Pasalimani
Hard Rock CaféThis lofty,
wooden-beamedspace with leatherarmchairs and greatrock music pullsstudent backpackersand Greeks whowish they lived else-where. d Etolikou 28• Open to 5am weekends
Wild Thing The first in a row of super-
trendy late night café-bars over-looking the Delfinario, Wild Thingpulls in the 30-something crowd.d Akti Dilaveri 16, Mikrolimano
Iguana The young in search of
adventure hang out at this bar-nightclub, which plays out discoand techno tracks until 6am – timefor an early breakfast. Order wateron the terrace if it all gets toomuch. d Akti Dilaveri 15, Mikrolimano
Neon Open-top jeeps and motor-
bikes pull up outside this vastbar-nightclub, with white leatherarmchairs on three levels andindustrial air conditioning to keepthe atmosphere just right. d AktiDilaveri 5, Mikrolimano
Don Kihotis A seductive hillside retreat
with an old-fashioned interior.Creaky wooden stairs lead to aroof terrace, with dreamy,romantic views. d Vasileos Pavlou68, Kastella
Up Down Coffee, cocktails
and ice creams in asplit-level bar withunderwater muralsand a glass spiralstaircase – plus asplendid roof terrace.d Akti Koumoundourou24, Mikrolimano
Bars and Cafés
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THE LANDSCAPE CHANGES as soon as you drive through Athens’ northernsuburbs; the sight of pristine, pine-clad Mount Parnitha opens the way to
the wide, varied landscape of central Greece. The region, Sterea Ellada, isfringed with mountains, lined with coastal towns and dotted with Byzantinemonasteries and ancient ruins. Delphi is the undoubted star and, indeed, thecountry’s most beautiful Classical site. Here, the fabled Oracle voiced itsprophecies, telling Oedipus, among others, his terrible fate. Delphi’s surroundsare full of beauty and opportunities for swimming, trekking and skiing.
North to Delphi
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Previous pages Temple of Poseidon, Cape Sounio
Delphi’s ancient ruins
1 Dafni
2 Eleusis
3 Mount Parnitha
4 Evia
5 Thebes
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Itea
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DafniThe lovely monastery here is
one of the greatest treasures ofthe Byzantine Empire. Inside, thebrilliant mosaics are among themost perfectly executedexamples of the genre. It iscurrently closed for restorationwork and is scheduled to reopenin 2006. d Map T2 • 210 581 1558 • Bus A16 to Eleusis from PlateiaEleftherias (30-minute journey to stop at Dafni)
EleusisFor 1,400 years, this was one
of Greece’s most sacred places.Thousands of pilgrims took part inthe Eleusian Mysteries, rites thatcelebrated Demeter, goddess ofnature, and her daughter Perse-phone. Today Eleusis has becomeone of Greece’s ugliest places –a polluted industrial town. Thereare still some scattered ruins,though, and a museum to help
make sense of them. d Map S2• 210 554 6019 • Bus A16 as above• 8:30am–3pm Tue–Sun • Adm
Mount ParnithaOn the outskirts of Athens,
this beautiful mountain has manypaths through its dense fir forests,offering walking and trekking forall levels. In spring, its meadowsare full of wildflowers. There aretwo refuges for climbers and alarge casino-cum-alpine hotel,reached by cable car from thesuburb of Thrakomakedones, anda good starting point for walks.(See also p138.) d Map T2
EviaGreece’s second-largest
island is so close to the mainlandyou can reach it by bridge. Thereare several trains a day fromLarissa station in Athens to Chal-kida, Evia’s central city. The spineof mountains running north to
south and dotted withvillages offers greatweekend trekking, andif you go by car midweekyou’ll likely have itsbeaches and the thermalspas at the northern tipto yourself. d Map T1• Chalkida tourist office:222 107 7777 • Train timesand prices: 210 529 7777
Eleusis
Cloisters, Monastery of Dafni
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ThebesThe city of Thebes was once
one of the greatest Mycenaeansettlements and home of thetragic dynasty of Oedipus.Although next to nothingremains of the ancientsites, and themodern city offerslittle in the way ofsightseeing, Thebesis worth a visit forthe splendid Arch-aeological Musuem,with its excellent collec-tion of Mycenaean finds.d Map S2 • Buses hourly fromTerminal B • Museum: Apr–Sep:12–7pm Mon, 8am–7pm Tue–Sun;Oct–Mar: 10:30am– 5pm Mon, 8am–3pmTue–Sun • Adm
Osios LoukasThis is a contender for the
most beautiful monastery inGreece, with its idylliclocation, looking acrossa valley to the soaringElikonas mountainrange, and fine Byzan-tine frescoes within.The interiors of the twodistinct 11th-centurychurches are coveredin marvellous mosaicand marble icons anddecorations. d Map R1• 8am–7pm daily (May–Sep:closed 2–4pm) • Adm
ArachovaThis mountain village makes
a good alternative base for visit-ing Delphi and Parnassos. It is anextremely popular winter desti-nation for rich Athenians, androom prices are higher here inwinter. Though the main thorough-fare is lined with shops hawkinglocal rugs, honey and cheese, thebest way to explore is to get lostin its stone-lined passageways.d Map R1 • Tourist office: 226 703 1630• Several buses daily from Terminal B,stopping en route to Delphi
Mount Parnassos Although developed in
parts, Mount Parnassosoffers fine skiing,
splendid views and,in spring, wonderfultrekking overwildflower-coveredheights. The highest
peak and most popu-lar trek is the Liakoura.
The truly ambitious cantrek via Delphi by startingfrom Arachova very earlyin the morning, although
this requires a guide. The beststarting point for most hikes isthe Greek Alpine Club refuge at1,900 m (6,230 ft), 20 km (12miles) north of Arachova. d MapR1 • Trekking Hellas: 210 331 0323• Parnassos Ski Centre: 226 704 2767
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Note: When visiting monasteries and churches, make sure your arms and legs are covered
Oracle of DelphiThe Oracle delivered divine pro-
phecies through a priestess at theSanctuary of Apollo. The priestess
went through consciousness-altering rituals, which probably in-cluded chewing laurel leaves andpoppies and inhaling the vapours
rising from Delphi’s natural chasm.She communicated the prophecies
in a series of inarticulate cries,which priests translated into verse.
Domed ceiling,
Osios Loukas
Delphi
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Galaxidi
DelphiThe centre of the world, as
Zeus divined by releasing twoeagles from opposite ends of theuniverse and seeing where theycrossed. Great mystic powers areassociated with this site, whosejutting mountain, gaping chasmsand rushing springs indicate a placeof dramatic geological upheaval.In ancient times, priestessescommuned with the Oracle ofDelphi, which gave famouslyabstruse prophecies. Apollo wondominion over the Oracle, andthe site is full of temples to thegod and prophets. (See p114.)
GalaxidiPretty Galaxidi is a chic but
low-key resort on the Gulf ofCorinth that makes a greatcoastal base for visiting Delphi.Its location between turquoisewaters and green mountains makesit tranquil and idyllic, except onsummer weekends when Athens’fashionable crowds pack thetrendy cafés. Otherwise, take thetime to explore its good beachesand 19th-century mansions.d Map Q1 • Tourist office: 226 504 1222• Several buses daily from Terminal B
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Set out from Athens,breaking up the three-hourdrive to Delphi with stopsat the scenic monasteriesof Dafni (see p111) andOsios Loukas.
Close to Delphi, you mightwant to stay either at theseaside town of Galaxidi,if it’s summer, or in thesnowy mountain village ofArachova in winter. If theformer, check into thecharming Ganimede hoteland spend the late after-noon at the beach; if thelatter, consider staying in afamily chateau at thefabulous Elatos Resort
(see p146). Here, you cantake the afternoon to ski atthe Parnassos Ski Centre,or to explore the manymountain trails.
A Driving Trip fromAthens to Delphi
Day One
Day TwoThe next day, head to theancient site of Delphi
bright and early. You’llwant to spend a lot oftime wandering around theTemple of Apollo,wondering about thestrange rituals of theancient priestesses whocommuned with theOracle. Be sure not tomiss the museum or thenearby Sanctuary of
Athena Pronaia (see p114for Delphi’s sights).
If you are in a hurry toreturn to Athens, grab aquick snack at Taverna
Vakhos (p115) in Delphibefore leaving. If not, you’llfind more sophisticatedfare at Galaxidi and Arachova– try the mussels at Barko
tis Maritsas in Galaxidi, orthe sausages and grilledformaella cheese atArachova’s Karaouli (seep115 for both).
Buses to most destinations north of Athens, such as Delphi,Thebes and Galaxidi, leave from Terminal B, Liossion 260
114
Sights in DelphiRoman AgoraThis marketplace area was
lined with stalls selling sacredobjects, where visitors could buylast-minute offerings to the Oracle.
Sanctuary of Athena Pronaia
The sanctuary to warrior-goddessAthena was believed to protectthe Sanctuary of Apollo frominvaders. Though many of thebuildings have been destroyed,those that survive are amongthe finest examples of ancientGreek architecture.
Sanctuary of the Earth Goddess
This rock circle surrounding anopening in the earth celebratedthe earliest deity associated withthe Delphic Oracle: the matriarchalearth goddess. The tradition ofthe Oracle and priestessescontinued, but the ruling deitylater become Apollo.
Castalian SpringThough now mostly dry, this
spring was where pilgrimscleansed themselves beforeentering the holy site. You canstill see the elaborate fountain-house built around it.
MuseumThe fantastic museum
houses the greatest offeringsbrought to the Oracle fromaround the world. d 22650 82312• Summer: 7:30am–6:45pm daily; Winter: 8:30am–3pm daily • Adm
Sacred Way This road retraces the route
Apollo first followed to Delphi andends at the temple dedicated tohim. The view, of Mount Parnassoslooming above and the plunginggorge below, is suitably humbling.
Temple of ApolloThis temple contained the
omphalos (navel-stone), markingthe centre of the world, as wellas the Oracle. Nearly all ancientauthors mention how rulers fromthroughout the inhabited worldsent envoys with lavish offeringsto hear the Oracle’s prophecies.
Sifnian TreasuryThis temple-like marble
structure, built by envoys fromSifnos, was the richest and mostbeautiful of several similar treasur-ies, all constructed as offeringsto the Oracle. Its statues arenow displayed in the museum.
Athenian Treasury The Athenians decorated
their offering with elegant friezesdepicting their hometown heroesTheseus and Herakles. The latter’sfamous Twelve Labours were per-formed at the Oracle’s behest.
TheatreBuilt in the 4th century BC,
this is one of the best preservedtheatres of ancient Greece. Italso offers a sweeping view ofthe whole site, especially thedramatically varied landscapethat makes Delphi feel so sacred.
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Left Mount Parnassos Right Delphi theatre
Delphi’s sights are spread over an area of about 2 km (1 mile) andrequire a day to view in full; admission charge to main site
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Kaplanis Flavourful taverna classics in
a rather fancy room with gildedchandeliers. In spring, be sure totry the fried courgette (zucchini)flowers. Year round, sample thefromila (barbecued cheese).d Plateia Tropeou, Arachova • Map R1• 2267 031 891 • €
BabisA good place to warm up on
a cold winter’s weekend – thecrackling fireplace casts a glowover everything. Go for a bowl ofhot, aromatic stifado stew (p58). d Kalyvia Parnassou, Arachova • Map R1• 22670 32155 • Open for lunch Oct–Aprdaily and for dinner at weekends • €
Emboriko People come here après ski
to warm up with coffee, drinksand snacks. Simple evening mealsinclude pasta, casseroles andsteaks. d Arachova • Map R1 • 2267032467 • Open Oct–May all day, but mealsserved only in the evenings • €
ParadissosAn unpretentious taverna on
the road to the northernmost tipof Evia. Enjoy the verdant setting,tender lamb and freshly dugpotatoes. d Dafni, Evia • Map S1• 2227 092 172 • €
KapetaniosSit by the church and sample
a wonderful array of seasonal sea-food, raw or fried with cheese.d Plateia Ag Tryfonas, Nea Lampsakos,Evia • Map T1 • 22210 28191 • €
Taverna VakhosThough Delphi’s sites and
scenery are fantastic, the samecannot be said for its culinaryofferings. This family-run estab-lishment is the exception. It cooksgood taverna fare accompaniedby views across the CorinthianGulf. d Apollonos 31, Delphi • Map Q1• 2265 083 186 • €
Topiki GefsiRespectable taverna food
and a nice view, even if theservice does leaves somethingto be desired. d Pavlou & Frederikis,Delphi • Map Q1 • €
Barko tis MaritsasA most popular taverna,
open year round on the beach.Mussels are the local speciality –baked, fried or served in sauce.The homemade vegetable piesare also good. d Ianthis, Amfissa,Galaxidi • Map Q1 • 2265 041 059 • €
Taverna PortoThis waterfront taverna
makes a good stop after a day ofswimming. Feast on large platesof cheap, tasty local seafood.d Akti Oianthis 41, Galaxidi • Map Q1• 2265 041 182 • €
KaraouliA simple, traditional,
delicious taverna. Be sure to trythe spicy Arachova sausage andstuffed peppers. d EleftheriouVenizelou, Arachova • Map R1 • 2267 031001 • Sep–Jun (Sep & Oct: weekendsonly) • €
Places to Eat North of Athens
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Left Taverna Vakhos, Delphi Right Kaplanis restaurant, Arahova
Note: Unless otherwise stated, all restaurants serve vegetarianmeals; most tavernas require payment in cash
€ under €30€€ €30–€40
€€€ €40–€50€€€€ €50–€60
€€€€€ over €60
Price Categories
For a three-coursemeal for one with halfa bottle of wine (orequivalent meal), taxesand extra charges.
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OUTSIDE ATHENS, the Peloponnese is the partof Greece most steeped in myth and history.
The Mycenaean kingdoms of Homer’s Iliad wereonce believed to be merely legendary, until 19th-century German archaeologist Heinrich Schleimannunearthed their fabulous palaces on the ArgivePeninsula. Now these sites compete with those inAthens as the most important in Greece. But, unlikeAthens, the landscapes of those legends – the plainswhere, according to Homer, great armies assembled,and the fields of Nemea where Herakles wrestleda lion to death – have remained the same formillennia, making this one of the most beautiful
regions of Greece, as well asthe most fascinating.
Into the Peloponnese
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1 Corinth Canal
2 Ancient Corinth
3 Acrocorinth
4 Gaia Wines
5 Nemea
6 Mycenae
7 Argos
8 Tiryns
9 Nafplio
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Temple of Zeus, Nemea
Mosaic of Bacchus,
Acrocorinth
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Argol ikosGulf
SaronicGulf
Nea Epidauros
Hiliomodi
Ligourio
Tolo
Sofiko
Kiato
Xilokastro
Korfos
Loutraki
Perahora
Nemea
Isthmia
Kekrhies
Assini
Limnes
Athikia
Argive Iraio
Agio TriadaPiryelo
Lerna
Sikia
KorinthosCorinth Canal
Ancient Corinth
Koutsi
Nemea
Mycenae
Tiryns
Argos
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Acrocorinth
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Corinth CanalThe isthmus
connecting mainlandGreece to the Pelo-ponnese frustratedsailors for thousandsof years, forcing themto make long, danger-ous journeys aroundthe peninsula. Every-one from Alexanderthe Great to Romanemperors Nero andCaligula tried digginga canal, but successcame only in 1893,when French engineers dynamitedtheir way through the rock. Boatstake about an hour to make the6-km (4-mile) journey. d Map R3
Ancient CorinthCorinth’s location, between
the Peloponnese and mainlandGreece, made it a rich and power-ful trading centre from Mycenaeantimes onwards. Material wealthwas accompanied by a reputationfor wild and licentious lifestyles,including polygamy and orgiasticcults, which St Paul addressedwith great concern in the biblicalBook of Corinthians. After the19th century, Corinth declinedinto a small, unattractive city. Itsattraction resides in the extensiveremains of the ancient glories,especially the 6th-century BC
Temple of Apollo, and the RomanAgora and Odeon. d Map R3• Archaeological sites: summer: 8am–7pm daily; winter: 8am–3pm daily; adm
AcrocorinthThis towering rock outside
Corinth was the strongest naturalfortification in ancient Greece. InArchaic times it was crowned bya famous temple to Aphrodite.The structures you see today aremostly medieval Turkish, oftenhaving been built over mucholder buildings. It is a hefty hiketo the top, but the effort isrewarded with great views.d Map R3 • 8:30am–7pm daily • Free
Gaia WinesIn recent years, the Greek
wine industry has been gaininginternational acclaim,finally bringing seriouscultivation techniquesto its sun-drenchedsoils and indigenousgrapes. Gaia is one ofthe best new vine-yards, producing deepvelvety wines fromNemea’s Aghiorghitikored grapes. d Koutsi• Map R3 • 27460 22057(call ahead to arrange a tourand tasting)
Corinth Canal
Entrance to Acrocorinth
There are several buses daily to Corinth from Athens’Terminal A, Kifissou 100 (journey time: 90 minutes)
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NemeaThis was the site of the first
labour of Herakles: the slaying ofthe Nemean lion. The lion’s skinwas impenetrable, so Heraklesstrangled the beast, then skinnedit and kept its pelt as a coat ofarmour. This is one ofseveral legends con-nected with the found-ing of the NemeanGames, which formedpart of the PanhellenicGames. The highlightof Nemea is walkingthrough the great sta-dium where the con-tests took place. d MapR3 • 8:30am–3pm daily • Adm
MycenaeLegend and history
combine alluringly atMycenae. Homer wrote ofAgamemnon, Greece’s mostpowerful king during the TrojanWar, commanding the citadel of“well-built Mycenae, rich in gold.”And history confirms that indeedthere was a Trojan War and a power-ful civilization based in Mycenae.The evidence came togetherwhen Heinrich Schliemann dis-covered the palace at Mycenae in1874, much of which accordswith Homer’s descriptions,including the wealth of gold.d Map R3 • Summer: 8am–7pm daily;winter: 8am–3pm daily • Adm
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ArgosBelieved to be the longest
continually inhabited town inGreece, the modern town sitsright on top of the ancient one,leaving much to wonder aboutbut little to see. Fortunately, the
4th-century theatreand excellent museumare well worth visiting,and, if you have a car,drive to the medievalcastles of Larissa andAspis overlooking theplain immortalized byHomer. d Map R3• Archaeological site:8:30am–3pm Tue–Sun; adm
TirynsThis was one of
the most importantcities of the Mycenaean
civilization. Its fortifications of lime-stone were so massive that laterGreeks believed they could havebeen built only by the giantCyclops – archaeologists stillrefer to the walls as “Cyclopean”.Although not as grand asMycenae, Tiryns is better-preserved, especially the ancientpalace and great hall. d Map R3 •Summer: 8am–7pm daily; winter8am–5pm Mon–Sat; adm
NafplioSmall, seaside Nafplio is one
of Greece’s most beautiful cities.
Theatre of Epidauros
Tiryns’ “Cyclopean” walls
Nafplio is the best base for exploring the Peloponnese; it is servedby several buses daily from Athens’ Terminal A, Kifissou 100
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Visit Nafplio on a summerweekend, buying ticketsfor a performance at ancientEpidauros before settingoff (see p65).
Take a morning bus fromAthens’ Terminal A, havingalso booked a hotel in ad-vance. The nicest place tostay is Nafplia Palace; Pen-sion Acronafplia is moreaffordable but still good.
Spend the day exploringNafplio’s Old City. Buysome drinks and a snack,and take them up to theVenetian fortress, whichaffords glorious views ofNafplio and the Gulf ofArgos. If you’re feeling fit,climb the 999 steps to thetop; otherwise, take a taxi.
Below the fortress, cool offat the small public beach.For more privacy, headdown the walkway andgo diving from the rocks.
Satiate your hunger atKanaris (p121), returningto the bus station before7:30pm, when buses departfor Epidauros. Even if theperformance is in Greek, thepowerful acting and magicalsetting will captivate. Pro-grammes summarize theplot in English. Take thebus back to Nafplio andget a good night’s sleep.
The folowing morning,check out, but leave yourluggage at the hotel. Takethe first bus to Mycenae
(whose tragic inhabitantsmay well have been thesubject of the previousnight’s play). Marvel at thislegendary prehistoric cityfor a few hours, then goback to Nafplio and hopon a bus back to Athens.
Overnight in Nafplio
Daytime
Nighttime
The Labours of HeraklesHerakles was fathered illegitimatelyby Zeus. Hera, enraged at her hus-band’s infidelity, drove Herakles
mad and caused him to kill his wife.In penance, he was required to
perform 12 feats of heroismaround the Peloponnese. He wascleansed of his sin and glorified
for his feats, which, ironically, areattributed to the jealous goddess:his name means “glory of Hera”.
For years the Turks and Venetiansfought for the city, leaving behindtwo fantastic hilltop Venetianfortresses and several Turkishmosques. The Greeks seizedNafplio when they won indepen-dence in 1821 and made it theirfirst capital, before Athens tookthat mantle. d Map R3 • Touristoffice: Martiou 25, 2752 024 444
EpidaurosThe 4th-century BC Theatre
of Epidauros is one of the bestsites in Greece, marvellouslypreserved and with astoundingacoustics (see pp60–61). Outsidethe theatre is the sprawlingAsklepion, an ancient spa andresort devoted to Asklepios, thegod of health. d Map S3 • Summer:8am–7pm daily; winter: 8am–3pm daily • Adm
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Best of the Restan afternoon swimming in clearwater, eating freshly caught fishin tavernas scented with flowers,and drinking excellent local wine.d Map R2
The Argive HeraionThis sanctuary to goddess
Hera, built in the 7th–4th cen-turies BC, is a wonderfully tranquilspot, with great views over theArgive plain. d Iraio, S.E. of Nafplio• Map R3 • 8am–5pm Tue–Sun • Adm
Skoura WinesSkoura is known for its white
wines, especially its deep, fruitychardonnays – a rarity in Greece.Call a few days ahead to arrangea tour and tasting. d Piryelo, nrArgos • Map R3 • 27510 23688
LernaOne of the oldest archaeo-
logical sites in Greece, withremains dating back to the fourthmillennium BC. d Map R4 • 8am–3pmTue–Sun • Adm
Agia Moni This 12th-century Byzantine
convent and garden makes for agood day out from Nafplio. Thenuns sell their own textiles. d NrNafplio • Map R3 • Free
AsiniThis deserted early Helladic
settlement is a delightful swim-ming spot. Nobel Laureate GeorgeSeferis thought so, too, in his odeto a place “unknown, forgotten byall, even Homer”. d Map R4
PerahoraThough little remains of the
Temple of Hera, this is still anidyllic place to come and swim,with a wonderful lighthouse andchapel, and crystal-clear waters.Snorkellers can see ancient ruinsunderwater. d Map R2 • Summer:8am–7pm daily; winter: 8am–3pm • Adm
LoutrakiFamed for its spring waters,
Loutraki is a popular Athenianweekend destination. The topdraw is the HydrotherapyThermal Spa, though the area isalso home to a casino that’s saidto be one of the biggest in Europe.d Map R2 • Hydrotherapy Thermal Spa, G Lekka 26, 2744 028 498
IsthmiaMuch of the ancient site has
been destroyed, but archaeologyfanatics will still want to see theSanctuary of Poseidon and thestadium that hosted the Panhel-lenic Games. d Map R3 • 2741037244 • 8:30am–3pm daily • Adm
KekhriesThe site where Theseus
defeated the Sinis, the giant whoused whole pine trees to sling-shot victims across the water.Today the seaside town makes anice stop on the beautiful driveto Epidauros. d Map R3
SikiaAlong with nearby Xylo-
castro, this quiet seaside villageis a beautiful place to while away
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again, don’t miss the deep, darkred local Nemean wine. d Mycenae• Map R3 • 2751 076 724 • €
Taverna O TheodorakisCorinth doesn’t have much
going for it in the way of restau-rants, but Theodorakis does adecent job with seafood, especiallysardines and calamari. d Seferi 8,Corinth • Map R3 • 2741 022 578 • €
Restaurant 24 HoursA stand-by for the wee small
hours, with an enormous menuthat ranges from taverna fare toschnitzel to pasta. d Agiou Nikolaou 19,Corinth • Map R3 • 2741 083 201 • €
O KavosThis tiny atmospheric house
by the sea serves up far superiorfresh grilled fish than any you’llfind in Corinth. d Isthmia, 8 km (5 miles)from Corinth • Map R3 • 27410 37906 • €
MaistraliPopular fish taverna, packed
with locals and tourists enjoyinghuge portions of charcoal-grilledfish and a wide selection of ouzoand tsipouro. d Possidonos 83,Loutraki • Map R2 • 2744 061 699 • €
LeonidasA popular place for actors as
well as audience to stop on theway to or from performances atthe ancient theatre. Good porkchops and stuffed vine leaves,and a nice garden at the back.d Main road, Epidauros • Map S3 • 2753 022 115 • €
Taverna Paleo ArchontikoHoused in an old mansion,
this family-run favourite is usuallypacked with locals. Nafpliotes gofor the excellent rooster cookedin wine, pork stew or rabbit withtomato sauce. d Ypsilandou & Sofroni,Nafplio • Map R3 • 2752 022 449 • €
Kanaris (Karamanlis)A firm favourite with former
president Constantine Karamanlis.Try the stuffed cabbage leavesand yiouvetsi (pasta with roastedmeat), washed down with barrelretsina. d Bouboulinas 1, Nafplio • MapR3 • 27520 27668 • €
SpiliaFrequently named as one of
the best tavernas in Greece, serv-ing local specialities elevated totheir highest culinary potential.Try the braised lamb and babyartichokes, accompanied by winefrom local Nemea vineyards.d Tripoleos 165, Kefalari, Argolida (nrNafplio) • Map R3 • 2751 062 300 • €
O SavasSavas grows his own avo-
cados, and serves them witheverything from roe to mangoesat this green-fruit-focused meze-dopleion. d Nea Kios, nr Nafplio • Map R3 • 27510 51425 • €
MykinaikoSimple but flavourful classics
– stuffed cabbage leaves andaubergine (eggplants) and savourymoussaka – at a small, family-runspot near the ancient site. Once
Places to Eat
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Taverna Paleo Archontiko, Nafplio
Note: Unless otherwise stated, all restaurants serve vegetarianmeals; payment is usually required in cash
€ under €30€€ €30–€40
€€€ €40–€50€€€€ €50–€60
€€€€€ over €60
Price Categories
For a three-coursemeal for one with halfa bottle of wine (orequivalent meal), taxesand extra charges.
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FROM AS EARLY AS THE 5TH CENTURY BC, the ancients built marble templesto their gods and prophets on verdant slopes covered in the dense foliage
of dark pines, in a land where the legendary Theseus had once roamed,freeing Attica from a scourge of monsters. Crowning the peninsula, atsouthernmost Cape Sounio, was the stunning Temple of Poseidon, sparklinglike a beacon over the Aegean. Looking at Attica today, it is clear to see thatparts of the coast have fallen victim to overdevelopment, but the jewels ofAttica remain in the peacefully crumbling temples among the trees, in thebest of the region’s sandy beaches and in the ultra-luxurious summer clubs,which stretch further south down the coast every year.
Around the Attica Coast
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Left Glyfada Right Ruins at Ramnous
1 Glyfada
2 Vouliagmeni
3 Lake Vouliagmeni
4 Temple of Poseidon
5 Sanctuary of Artemis, Vavrona
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7 Marathonas
8 Schinias
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MakronisosS a r o n i cG u l f
Nea MakriKifissia
Porto Rafti
Vavrona
Loutsa
Markopoulo
Keratea
Palia Fokea
Sounio
Koropi
Aharnes
Skala Oropou
Aghii Apostoli
Kapandriti
Grammatiko Agio Marina
Varimbombi
Malakasa
Kalamos
Pikermi
Spata
AanvissosSaronida
Lagonisi
Lavrio
Piraeus
ATHENS
Rafina
Temple of Artemis
Ramnous
Sanctaury ofAmphiaraos
Temple ofPoseidon
Marathonas
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GlyfadaHere, a wealthy, overdevelop-
ed beach-resort and flashy night-life vibe prevails. There are plentyof designer shops and expensivecafés to sit in while sporting newpurchases by day, and trendysummer clubs to dance in by night.d Map T3 • Bus E2 or A2 from Athens
VouliagmeniA sprawling seaside resort
suburb south of Athens, Vouliag-meni is lined with luxury hotels,yacht clubs and pricey pay-per-visit beaches. But the biggestdraw for Athenians are the super-glam beachside clubs, the centreof nightlife in summer. All are re-created in luscious over-the-topdecor each year. Perennial com-petitors in the desirability stakesare Island, Tango and Spa. d Map T3• Bus E22 from Athens
Lake VouliagmeniBathers come year-round
to take the warm, therapeuticwaters of Lake Vouliagmeni, alarge thermal spring thatmaintains a steady temperatureof 22–25˚C (70–77˚F). The sourceof the clear, half-fresh, half-saltwaters is still unknown, butdevotees say there’s no doubtabout their healing properties.It’s a great place to swim,especially on cold winter
mornings, flanked by ahigh rock face on oneside and trees on theother. d Map T3 • 210 8962239 • E22 bus from Athens• Summer: 6:30am–8pm;winter: 7:30am–5pm • Adm
Temple ofPoseidon
The 5th-century BCtemple is one of thefew ever built toPoseidon. After
watching the sunset from theremaining white marble pillars ofthis ancient site on the peak ofCape Sounio – silhouetted by theincomparable iridescent blue ofthe Aegean – you may share thesentiments of the poet Byron.He asked the gods simply to“Place me on Suniom’s marbledsteep, Where nothing save thewaves and I, May hear ourmutual murmurs sweep, There,swanlike, let me sing and die.”(See also p45.) d Map T3 • 2292 039363 • Bus from the KTEL terminal inAthens (2-hour journey time) • Summer &winter: 9am–sunset daily • Adm
Lake Vouliagmeni
Temple of Poseidon
Buses to most destinations around Attica leave from Athens’KTEL terminal on Mavromateon
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Sanctuary of Artemis,Vavrona
This temple to Artemis, goddessof the hunt and childbirth, wasonce the most sacred in Attica.Its highlight was the bear festival,where young girls dressed ascubs performed the “bear dance”in honour of the goddess’sfavourite animal. When King Aga-memnon sacrificed his daughterIphigenia to Artemis, the god-dess saved her and brought herhere, where she became a highpriestess. Her tomb is the oldestcult shrine on the site. Today thewell-preserved site remainsgreen and tranquil. Itsmuseum displays cult finds.d Markopoulo, Mesogia • Map T3• 8:30am–3pm Tue–Sun • Adm
RafinaIf you go to the islands
of Andros or Evia, you’llspend time in Rafina, Attica’ssecond-largest port afterPiraeus. It’s smaller andcleaner than its chaotic bigbrother, but still bustling,filled with fish joints andhawkers. If you have afew hours to kill, takethe small bus from theport to the decent beach,which also has a bar. If
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you’re brave enough,climb up on rocksabutting the beachand join the localchildren in adrenaline-rush cliff-diving. d MapT2 • KTEL bus from theterminal on Mavromateon
Marathonas In 490 BC, the
Marathon plain wasthe site of one of his-tory’s most importantbattles. There, an armyof 10,000 Greeks and
Plataeans defeated 25,000 Per-sians, preserving the newlyfounded first democracy. A tombto the 192 Greek soldiers who fell(in comparison to 6,000 Persians)still stands here. After the victory,Pheidippidis ran the 42 km (26miles) to Athens to announce theoutcome, then collapsed dead onthe spot. A museum here displaysfinds from the area. d Map T2• Marathon tomb: 2294 055 462 • Archaeo-logical Museum: 2294 055 155 • 8:30am–3pm Tue–Sun (for both) • buses daily fromMavromateon terminal • Adm (for both)
SchiniasMany consider Schinias
the most beautiful beach areain Attica, its white-sand coasthugged by dark pine forests.However, the area is under-going huge changes for the2004 Olympics, which includebuilding an artificial lake, andpossibly archaeological andenvironmental parks. Thismeans many tavernas arespringing up on the once-pristine shore. But with acar it’s still possible to findmany lovely spots to swimalong the coast here,especially mid-week.d Map T2 • KTEL bus from theMavromateon terminal
Sanctuary of Artemis, Vavrona
Monument at
Marathonas
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Start early with a drive outof Athens to Marathonas.Survey the plain where theGreeks won history’sgreatest military victory,and pay homage at thewarrior’s tomb. Then headto the romantic ruins ofRamnous, ideallyconcentrating more onthe scenery than thesite’s original purpose:praying for revenge.
Drive south down thecoast, stopping in Loutsafor a grilled fish lunch atXypolitos (see p127).
A Tour of Attica
Morning
Afternoon
The Local Hero Theseus is linked with Attica through
a mix of mythology and enticingtraces of historical evidence thatsuggest that a King Theseus mayhave actually existed. This kingmanaged to unite the region’s
splinter states, while the reputationof Theseus the hero rests on talesof his slaying monsters and bedding
eveyone from Helen of Troy toHippolyta, Queen of the Amazons.
RamnousThe ruins of these temples
to Nemesis (goddess of divineretribution) and Thetis (Achilles’mother and goddess of law) areamong Greece’s most unspoiledsites, in a romantically isolatedand overgrown grotto with analluring sea view. Nearby are somebeautiful secluded beaches.d Map T2 • 8:30am–3pm daily • Adm
Sanctuary of AmphiaraosBuilt in the 4th century BC,
this shrine was both an oracleand health resort. It honouredAmphiaraos, an Argonaut prophetwho was tricked into fightingagainst Thebes, even though heforesaw that he would be killed.In the retreat, he was swallowedby the earth, and reincarnated asa demi-god, returning at this site.In spring, this gladed site isblanketed with flowers. d Map T2• 8:30am–3pm Tue–Sun • Adm
Pines on Schinias beach
After lunch, continue southto the well-preservedSanctuary of Artemis atVavrona, dedicated to thehuntress goddess. Fromthere it’s a little over anhour’s drive to one ofGreece’s most splendidsights: the Temple of
Poseidon at Sounio (p123).If there’s still plenty of day-light, first head to one ofthe two nearby beaches.The one on the left of thetemple requires an athleticscramble down but offersscenic seclusion; the hotelbeach on the right is easilyaccessible but coveredwith sun loungers. An houror two before sunset,wander up to the temple,and watch as twilight deep-ens the Aegean to purpleand the marble columnsturn to pink and gold.
Returning to the coastaldrive to Athens, considertwo dinner options. Thenearby taverna Syrtaki or,closer to the city, theelegant seaside club Island,where you can end yourday of beautiful scenerywith a vista of beautifulpeople (see p127 for both).
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Nearby IslandsSpetsesPopular with British tourists,
Spetses offers pine forests, goodbeaches and a charming harbourtown. Cars are banned, but funwater taxis can take you aroundthe coast. d Map S4
TziaAlthough only half an hour
from Lavrion, Tzia remainspeaceful and relatively untouristed.Its interior is fertile and flowered.Don’t miss the stone Lion ofTzia, carved into a hillside, or theexcellent local wine. d Map U3
AndrosA favourite of Greece’s ship-
ping magnates; golden-beachedAndros is lovely, exclusive, andexpensive. The GoulandrisMuseum of Modern Art holdsworld-class exhibits everysummer. d Map V3
KythnosMostly barren and much
less picturesque than the otherCyclades, Kythnos does haveone thing going for it: healingthermal springs that are said tobe the best in all the Aegean.d Map U4
EviaHuge Evia is the perfect
island for hikers, with greenmountains and long trailswinding through inland villages.At the northern tip, posh resortscluster around restorativethermal springs. (See p111.)
SalaminaWooded Salamina has a rich
history – playwright Euripideswas born here, and in 480 BC,the Greeks famously beat Xerxeshere. Its proximity to the industryaround Piraeus makes it lesspopular today. d Map S3
AeginaAn easy and rewarding day
trip, only half an hour from Athens,with pleasant beaches, famouslytasty pistachios, the Temple ofAphaia, and Agios Nektarios, oneof the largest churches in theBalkans. d Map S3
Angistri This tiny islet off Aegina is
even more of an escape from itall. Quiet beaches, clear beautifulwater, a handful of small hotelsand fish tavernas, and not muchelse. d Map S3
HydraLovely Hydra town, its cob-
bled paths winding among oldmansions clustered around theclear-watered harbour, is one ofGreece’s most beautiful spots.Its popularity as a celebrity get-away and movie backdrop hasn’tdampened its charm. d Map S4
PorosOverlooked by most tourists,
Poros is famous for its fragrantlemon groves. Pass over Porostown to walk in the dark woodsand bright groves of Kalavria.d Map S4
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Left Aegina harbour Right Poros town
Boats to Evia and Andros leave from Rafina, boats to Tzia fromLavrio; all other islands listed are served by boats from Piraeus
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reason. The shaded three-storeyseating area has a nice view ofthe sea, and spit-cooked beefand fresh octopus are reliablytasty. d 2 km (1 mile) N of the Templeof Poseidon • Map T3 • 2292 039 125 • €
Ennea Kores,TziaBypass other tavernas lining
the port and head to the end ofthe bay and this favourite of theAthenian cognoscenti. Enjoy theview over a poikilia (mixed plate)of fresh seafood and veggie treats.d Vourkari port, Tzia • Map U3 • €
Xypolitos, nr VavronaThis coastal fish taverna has
great starters, including a nice,light taramasalata – but saveroom for the grilled fish. d 25thMartiou and George Papandreou, betweenArtemida and Loutsa • Map T3 • €€
IthakiElaborate cuisine and glitzy
clientele in a wood-and-glassbuilding built into a cliff overlook-ing the sea. Mainly fish but alsoa decent choice of meat dishes.d Apollonos 28, Vouliagmeni • Map T3 •210 896 3747 • €€€€
Island, VarkizaRitzy Athenians don’t mind
driving well over an hour out ofthe city to reach this beautifulseaside club. The Mediterraneanfusion food and sushi are onlypart of it – stay on to enjoy thelate-night dancing. d 27th km on theAthens–Sounio road, Varkiza • Map T3• 210 965 3563 • May–Oct • €€€
Moita, HydraLight, creative Mediterranean
cuisine in a lovely courtyard. Thefocus is on seafood, but don’tmiss the delicious pears poachedin wine for dessert. d Map S4 •2298 052 020 • Greek Easter–October • €€
Vassilis, Mati Simple taverna serving such
delights as a mouth-wateringroasted baby pork and kolokef-tedes (fried courgette balls). d 27km of Marathonos Ave, Mati • Map T2• 2294 033 807 • Greek Easter–Oct daily;Fri and weekends year round • €
Kavouri, Nea MakriTop-notch taramasalata and
fresh grilled seafood (the squidis especially good) at this gardentaverna by the sea. d MarathonasBeach, Nea Makri • Map T2 • 2294 055243 • Apr–Oct: daily; Fri & weekends yearround • €€
Mezedopoleio To Steki,Aegina
Located near the fish market,you can always be sure there willbe good seafood here, accom-panied by ouzo. d Pan Irioti 45,Aegina • Map S3 • 2297 023 910 • €
Patralis, SpetsesDull surrounds but probably
the widest variety of fresh fishon the island. d Kounopitsa, Spetses• Map S4 • 2298 072 134 • €
Syrtaki, nr SounioThe most popular taverna
around Sounio, and with good
Places to Eat
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Syrtaki, Sounio
Note: Unless otherwise stated, all restaurants accept credit cardsand serve vegetarian meals
€ under €30€€ €30–€40
€€€ €40–€50€€€€ €50–€60
€€€€€ over €60
Price Categories
For a three-coursemeal for one with halfa bottle of wine (orequivalent meal), taxesand extra charges.
ATHEN
S’ TOP TEN
STREETSMARTPlanning Your Visit
130
Sources of Information131
Arriving in Athens 132
Getting Around133
Banking andCommunication
134
Shopping Tips135
Dining in Athens136
Things to Avoid137
Specialist Tours138
Accommodation Tips139
Places to Stay140–147
130
Planning Your VisitWhat to TakeIn summer, light
clothing will suffice, butremember to includeitems with long sleevesand either trousers or askirt so you can cover uprespectably for visitingthe churches. Throughthe rest of the year, you’llneed warmer clothing.Be sure to take comfort-able walking shoes.
LanguageGreek is the official
language, though manypeople, especially young-sters and those workingin tourism, speak goodEnglish. By and large youshouldn’t have anyproblem communicating,but learning a few basicGreek words shows goodwill on your part.
Street and Shop Signs
Street signs are postedin both Greek and Latin(English alphabet) script,and tourist maps arepublished using the Latinscript. However, shopsand restaurants, especi-ally those less frequentedby tourists, may havesigns in Greek only.
Health MattersCitizens from EU
countries have the rightto free basic medicalcare upon the presen-tation of a completedE111 form. Travellers fromthe US, Canada, Australiaand New Zealand are notcovered by the Greekhealth system, and will
Passport and VisaInformation
Citizens from EU countries(plus Norway and Iceland)need only a valid pass-port to enter Greece, andEU nationals can stayindefinitely. Likewise, US,Canadian, Australian andNew Zealand citizensneed only a valid passportfor entry, and can stayfor up to 90 days. Re-member that a fine willbe imposed if you staylonger without obtaininga visa extension.
When to GoAs Athens is a major
cultural centre, touristscome and go the yearround. In summer, manyvisitors pass through thecity on their way to theislands, though this iscertainly not the besttime to visit: it’s very hotand packed with foreignexcursion groups. Try tocome in either late springor early autumn, whenyou can expect mildweather and a morerelaxed atmosphere.
ClimateAthens is blessed with
a typical Mediterraneanclimate. Summers arehot, dry and sunny, withtemperatures between22ºC (72ºF) and 32ºC(90ºF) throughout July.Winters tend to be mild,with average temper-atures ranging from 7ºC(44ºF) to 13ºC (55ºF)throughout January, witha fair amount of rain andeven occasional snow.
be required to pay for alltreatment, except emer-gency casualty visits.
SecurityAthens is still one of
the safest cities inEurope. Take the usualprecautions: lock yourcar, keep valuables in asafe place and look afteryour wallet and passport.
Local Prices Greeks complain that
living costs have risensubstantially since theintroduction of the Euro.Expect to pay pricessimilar to those in otherEU countries, except fortaxis and public trans-port, which are cheaperin Athens than in otherEuropean capitals.
Driving Licences For car and moped
hire, EU citizens needonly have a national driv-ing licence, but visitorsfrom the US, Canada,Australia and NewZealand are required toshow an InternationalDriving Licence beforetaking to the roads.
Stre
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art Left Street sign in Greek and Latin scripts Right Passengers arriving at Athens Airport
Greek NationalHolidays
1 & 6 January 25 March First Monday of LentOrthodox Easter 1 May Whit Monday15 August 28 October 25 & 26 December
131
broadcasts the news inEnglish at 8:30am and4:30 pm Mon–Fri, theBBC World Service is on107.1 FM and most hotelsoffer satellite TV.
Guides and Maps The GNTO distributes
free maps of CentralAthens, Piraeus and thecoast, and Attica. For thewidest range of booksabout the city in English,try Eleftheroudakisbookshop (see p91).
BusinessInformation
The Athens Chamber ofCommerce and Industryoffers information aboutbusiness opportunities inthe capital, while theBritish Hellenic Chamberof Commerce providesinformation about doingbusiness in Greece.
Olympic GamesThe Olympic
movement(www.olympic.org)provides facts andfigures from the Athens2004 Olympics, plusinformation about pastand future games.
Disabled TravellersOrganizations such
as Holiday Care Serviceand Tipscope, both basedin the UK, provide adviceand information fordisabled visitors travellingto destinations in Greece.In addition, Can Be DoneTours arranges tailor-madeholidays especially forpeople with disabilities.
GNTO ServicesThe new Greek
National Tourist Board(GNTO) informationoffice, close to PlateiaSyntagma, offers basicadvice and brochuresabout the city and thesurrounding area.
WebsitesThe GNTO website is
a good starting point. Forarchaeological sites andmuseums, try browsingwww.culture.gr; for forth-coming cultural eventswww.cultureguide.gr;and for a taste of theAthens Festival summerprogramme visit www.greekfestival.gr. GreeceNow (www.greece.gr)features regular articlesabout contemporaryGreek politics and culture.
Newspapers The English-language
papers to look out for areAthens News andKathimerini. The formerhas a section listingforthcoming events; thelatter is sold as an insertwith the InternationalHerald Tribune.
Local Magazines Glossy bi-monthly
Odyssey features storiesabout Greece and theGreek diaspora. AthensToday is a free fortnightlypocket edition withinformation for visitors.
English-LanguageRadio and TV
The city radio stationAthens 9.84 (9.84FM)
BackgroundReading
Beyond the classics listedon page 37, check outModern Greece – A ShortHistory (C M Woodhouse),Petros Haris’s The LongestNight – Chronicles of aDead City, which describeslife in Athens during WorldWar II, and Dinner withPersephone by PatriciaStorace – an amusingaccount of an Americanpoet’s one-year sojournin modern Athens.
Sources of Information
Streetsmart
Left Athenian guides Right Newspapers
Directory
GNTO Offices
• Greece: Amalias 26,Athens ww.gnto.gr• UK: 4 Conduit St,London (020) 74959300 www.gnto.co.uk• US: Olympic Tower,645 Fifth Avenue, NewYork (1212) 4215777,www.greektourism.com• Canada: 91 ScollardSt, 2nd Floor, Toronto(1416) 9682220• Australia: 51–57 PittSt, Sydney
Business Information
• British Chamber ofCommercewww.bhcc.gr • Athens Chamber ofCommerce andIndustry www.acci.gr
Disabled Travellers
• Holiday Care Servicewww.holidaycare.org.uk• Tripscope www.justmobility.co.uk/tripscope• Can Be Done Tours(020) 8907 2400
132
Arriving in AthensTaxis are also readily avail-able and the journey takesapproximately 40 minutes.
Ferry from Italy Though there are no
direct ferries from Italy toPiraeus, regular overnightservices run from Trieste,Venice, Brindisi, Anconaand Bari to Patra. Mostcompanies then lay on aconnecting coach fromPatra to Athens.Alternatively, the HellenicRailways Organization(OSE) operates eight trainsdaily from Patra to Athens(journey time: 4 hours).
Ferry from Cyprus Ferries run from
Limassol in Cyprus(journey time approx44hrs) to the Athens portof Piraeus.
Ferry from GreekIslands to Piraeus
There are regular ferriesfrom the Dodecanese,Cyclades, Saronic GulfIslands, Crete, Samosand northeastern AegeanIslands to Piraeus. Manyislands are also connectedto Piraeus by Hellas FlyingDolphins hydrofoils –faster but expensive.
TrainThere are internation-
al trains to Greece fromBulgaria, the Former-Yugoslav Republic ofMacedonia (FYROM) andTurkey. These terminateat Thessaloniki, whereyou will need to changetrains for Athens, toarrive at Larissa Station.
Flights fromEurope
Greece’s national airline,Olympic Airways, oper-ates direct flights betweenAthens and most majorEurope cities, includingLondon; British Airwaysand easyJet also operatedaily flights from Londonto Athens (from Heathrowand Gatwick, respectively).
Flights fromOutside Europe
Greece’s national airline,Olympic Airways, oper-ates flights to the MiddleEast, as well as to Bang-kok, Johannesburg, Mel-bourne, Montreal, Sydneyand Toronto. In the US,New York offers the mostdirect flights to Athens,with Delta flying daily.
Finding theCheapest Flights
For late deals, check outwww.lastminute.co.ukand www.bargainflights.com. Some websites,such as www.travelocity.com, will alert you byemail when tickets fallbelow a certain price.
Getting from theAirport to the City
Metro Line 3 runs fromthe airport to Syntagmain the city centre. Inaddition, three 24-hourexpress bus servicescover the 27-km (18-mile)stretch between theairport and the city: theE94 runs to EthnikiAmyna metro station; theE95 to Plateia Syntagmaand the E96 to Piraeus.
Overland by CarMajor roads linking
Greece to its neighboursrun to Thessaloniki: TheE90 from Turkey; the E79from Bulgaria; and theE75 from the FYROM.From Thessaloniki, theE75 runs south to Athens.Arriving from Albania,the border crossing intoGreece is at Kakavia. Fromhere, take the regionalroad to Ioannina, the E92to Larissa, then the E75south to Athens.
Overland by BusThe Hellenic Railways
Organisation (OSE) alsooperates international busservices to and fromAlbania, Turkey andBulgaria from thePeloponnese train stationin Athens. Eurolines runsa weekly service fromLondon Victoria to avariety of destinations.
Stre
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art Left Ferry at Piraeus Right Athens’ taxis
Directory
Airlines
www.olympic-airways.grwww.britishairways.comwww.easyjet.comwww.delta.com
Airport Information
Athens InternationalAirport 24-hour callcentre: 210 353 0000,www.aia.gr
Ferries
www.ferries.grwww.dolphins.gr
Trains & Buses
www.eurolines.com www.osenet.gr www.ktel.org
133
MetroRunning from 5:30am
to midnight, the metro iscurrently undergoing ex-pansion. Line 1 runs north-south between the suburbof Kifissia and Piraeus.Line 2 runs from Sepoliato Dafni, stopping closeto the Acropolis en-route,while Line 3 runs fromPlateia Syntagma toEleftherios Venizelosairport.
Car HireIt’s not worth hiring
a car while in Athens,though you may wantone for exploring theregions beyond the city.Regulations vary fromcompany to company,but you should be over21 years old and hold avalid driving licence (seealso p130).
ParkingParking in central
Athens is a nightmare.The most central (butoften very crowded) carpark is at Plateia Klafth-monos. Failing that, if yourhotel doesn’t have parkingspace, you’re probablybetter off using the out-of-town car park at thenew Olympic Stadium inIrini, and taking the metro.
TaxisAthens’ taxis are
bright yellow, plentiful andcheap. They can beordered by phone for asmall surcharge, or waveddown in the street. En-route, it’s quite normal fora driver to pick up extra
On FootAll the main monu-
ments are concentratedin the city centre, whichfocuses on busy PlateiaSyntagma and can easilybe negotiated on foot.From here, you can usethe hilltops of the Acropo-lis and Lykavittos Hill asorientation points.
TramThere are three tram
lines connecting the citycentre and the coast: TIruns from Syntagma toNeo Faliro; T2 from NeoFaliro to Glyfada; and T3from Glyfada toSyntagma.
BusThe bus network is
extensive. Blue busesrun daily 5am–12:30am(there is a limited nightservice); although cheap,they are often ratherovercrowded, especiallyduring rush hour. Tickets,which can be boughtfrom most street kiosks(periptera), should bevalidated in an orangemachine upon boarding.You can also buy monthlypasses covering theentire urban network:buses, trolleybuses andthe metro.
TrolleybusThe network has
been through a processof expansion and thereare 25 routes covered byyellow trolleybuses. Usethe same tickets as forblue buses, and validatethem upon boarding.
passengers who areheading in your direction.Fares are higher betweenmidnight and 5am, and youalso pay extra for luggageand trips to the airport.
MopedsA speedy and fun
way to zip around is bymoped. If you have avalid driving licence, youcan rent one from RentMoto in Koukaki.
Funicular One of the best
places for watching thesunset over Athens is thesummit of Lykavittos Hill(see pp52 & 97). If youdon’t feel up to the hike,take the funicular fromAristippou. It runs every20 minutes from 9amto 3am.
Getting Around
Streetsmart
Left Bus Centre Metro sign Right The funicular
Directory
Athens Urban Trans-
port Organisation
www.oasa.gr
Car hire
Avis 210 322 4951,www.avis.gr
Budget 210 349 8800,www.budget.gr
Europcar 210 924 8810,www.europcar.com
Hertz 210 922 0102,www.hertz.gr
Moped hire
Moto Rent 210 9234939, www.motorent.gr
Tram
www.tramsa.gr
134
Banking and Communication(OTE) offices at Patission85 (open 24 hrs) andStadiou 15 (Mon–Fri 7am–midnight, Sat–Sun 8am–midnight). It is alsopossible to call fromtelephone booths aroundtown – for these you willneed a phone card worth100 units (€4), which caneasily be bought at anystreet kiosk.
Calling GreeceIf you are calling
from outside the country,the international code forGreece is 0030, whilethe area code for Athensis 210.
Greek TelephoneNumbers
All Greek numbers nowhave a total of ten digits,including the area code,which you should useeven when dialling fromwithin the respectivearea.
Mobile PhonesAll Greek mobile
numbers begin with 69and have a total of tendigits.
Internet CafésCafés with web
access are springing upall over the city. The bestin the central area areMuseum Internet Café(www.museumcafe.gr) atPatission 46, next door tothe National Archaeologi-cal Museum, Cafe4u(www.cafe4u.gr) at Ippo-kratous 44 in Exarcheia,which is open 24 hrs andBits and Bytes at
CurrencyGreece adopted the
Euro (€) in 2002. Thecurrency is available indenominations of €10,€20, €50 and €100 notes,while coins come in 1, 2,5, 10, 20, 50 cent (leptain Greek) pieces, as wellas larger coins worth €1and €2.
Banks, ATMs,Cards and Cash
Banks are normally openMon–Thu 8am–2pm andFri 8am–1:30pm. ATMsare plentiful in Athens forround-the-clock access tocash. Credit cards areaccepted in larger hotels,restaurants and shops, butyou will find that lesstouristy businesses, suchas local tavernas, acceptcash only.
PostAirmail letters and
postcards take about 4days to reach other EUcountries, and around 10days to the US, Australiaand New Zealand. Themost central post officeis on Mitropoleos, closeto Plateia Syntagma, andworks Mon–Fri 7:30am–8pm, Sat 7:30am–2pm,Sun 9am–2pm. Otherpost offices around townare open Mon–Fri 8am–2pm. Post boxes areyellow and have separateslots for national andinternational mail.
TelephonesYou can make inter-
national calls from theGreek Telecommunications
Akadimias 78, close to Omonia. In Piraeus,try Netmania (www.netmania.gr) at VasileosPavlou 135, belowKastella.
Business FacilitiesThe Athenaeum Inter-
Continental and the Hilton(see p141 for both) havewell-equipped businesscentres with telephones,fax machines, internetconnection, printers andphotocopiers, as well assecretarial and translationservices.
Greek LanguageCourses
The most highly regardedlanguage schools forlearning Greek are theAthens Centre and theHellenic American Union.Both of these schoolsoffer courses of varyingduration (3–10 weeks)and intensity.
Stre
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art Left Post boxes Centre Public phone booths Right Internet café
Directory
Directory Enquiries
• Greek DirectoryEnquiries: 131• International DirectoryEnquiries: 139 (English-speaking); can be usedfor collect calls
Athens Centre
• Archimidous 48 • 210 701 2268 • www.athenscentre.gr
Hellenic American
Union
• Massalias 22 • 210 368 0000 • www.hau.gr
135
the islands not only domany establishmentsrefuse credit cards, butalso cash points are oftenfew and far between. So,if you are planning a daytrip from Athens, makesure you take plenty ofcash with you.
Sales TaxVAT of roughly 18%
is included in the price ofmost items bought inGreece; edible produceis taxed at 8.5%.
RefundsGoods can be ex-
changed with a receipt.Although Greek law statesthat a refund must begiven if a customer isdissatisfied with an itempurchased, in practiceshops will always offeran exchange instead.
MarketsSunday is the day for
Athens’ flea market (seep80) and the flea marketin Piraeus (see p105).Additionally, each area ofAthens holds its ownweekly street market, thelaiko, at which localresidents purchase freshfruit, vegetables, fish andeven underwear.
SalesJan/Feb and August
are the proper salesmonths, but you will findshops with prosfores(discounts) throughoutthe year. Stock shopssuch as The FactoryOutlet on Pireos (runningbetween Plateia Omonia
Shopping AreasThe capital’s chic
designer boutiques linethe streets of Kolonaki,with shoe emporia andhigh street chains onErmou and Patission. Thebargain market areas areMonastiraki, Psiri andThissio. However, somesuburbs have recentlymade challenging bids tothe centre’s fashion mono-poly, and leafy Kifissia inthe north hosts a wealthof upmarket designerboutiques and elegantshopping malls filled withexpensive imports. In thesouth, Glyfada boasts aMiami-style coastal boul-evard containing branchesof most of the centre’sclothing, shoe, accessory,home decoration andbeauty stores.
Opening HoursAs a general rule,
shops open 9am–3pmMon, Wed and Sat; 9am–2:30pm & 5–8:30pm Tue,Thu and Fri. Departmentstores, shops in touristareas, florists, bakeriesand many larger shopsstay open later and oftendo not close for lunch.Chemists are closed Sat,and street kiosks oftenstay open until midnight.
Credit CardsMost Athens shops
accept any major creditcard (VISA, AmericanExpress, Mastercard,Diners Club), althoughsmaller, family-run shopsand tavernas may not. Inthe countryside and on
and Piraeus) has a widerange of designer brandsat bargain prices.
SouvenirsPlaka and Monastiraki
are the best areas fortraditional gifts such ashandicrafts, vases, leathergoods and worry beadsaplenty, as well as morecontemporary pieces byyoung Greek artists. Thearea around Athinas isthe best place to buyolives and olive oil, Greekcheeses, honey, spices,herbs, tin trays and jugs.
MuseumReproductions
Both the Benaki Museum(pp22–3) and the Museumof Cycladic Art (pp18–19)sell excellent reproduc-tions. The former stockscopies of icons, sculpturesand ancient vases, toysand jewellery; the lattertrades in wonderful repli-cas of Cycladic figurines.
JewelleryGreece is justly re-
nowned for its jewellery.Old masters Lalaounis(pp72 & 73) and Zolotas(p91), both famous for in-tricate works in gold, haveshowrooms on Voukoures-tiou, alongside internationalbrands like Bulgari andGavello. Newer talents,such as Elena Votsi (p55)and Lito Karacostanoglouare based in chic Kolonaki.Global high street jewel-ler and watchmaker FolliFollie (p99) has boutiquesin most upmarket retailareas of Athens.
Shopping Tips
Streetsmart
Left Flea market Right Gallery shop
For the best places to shop in Athens see pp54–5
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Dining in AthensPsarotavernaA psarotaverna
specializes in freshlycaught local fish such asbarbouni (red mullet) andxifias (swordfish). Theyare normally barbecuedand served with lemonand olive oil. Startersmight include kalamarakia(baby squid), okhtapodhi(octopus) and garidhes(shrimps).
Ouzeries andMezedopoleia
Taking its name from thestrangely uplifting andhighly intoxicating anise-flavoured spirit, ouzo, anouzeri is the place to visitfor relaxed drinking andchatting with friends overa range of mezes. Beerand wine are normallyalso available. Mezedopo-leia offer more substan-tial mezes that, in theirvariety and quantity, canform quite a feast. Someof Athens’ best are aroundOmonia (see p92).
SnacksWhile American-style
fast-food chains havemade little impression onlocal eating habits, Greeksare tremendous snackersand happy to satiate theirpeckishness with tiropites(cheese pies), spana-kopites (spinach pies)and takeaway souvlaki(pitta bread filled withbarbecued meat, tzatzikiand freshly choppedonion and tomatoes).The Greek chain Everestdoes tasty, freshly filledtoasted sandwiches.
Estiatorion Most of the dishes
on offer in an estiatorionare oven-baked meat andfish specialities, such asmoussaka (layers of auber-gine and minced meat)stifado (stew) and gem-ista (stuffed vegetables),which are often preparedin advance and servedluke-warm. Deserts arenormally limited to sweetpastries and fresh fruit.
TavernaClassic taverna fare
is mezes (hors-d’oeuvres),which can be served hotor cold, plus freshly friedor grilled meat and fishdishes. In some estab-lishments there is nomenu, but waiters bringround trays laden withdishes on offer, so youcan choose what you likethe look of. There are noset courses, and platestend to arrive in a steady,if somewhat random,stream.
PsistariaA carnivore’s paradise,
a psistaria specializes inspit-roasts and char-grilling(sta karvouna) meatssuch as souvlaki (shishkebabs), kokoretsi (offal)and spit-roast lamb andchicken. Vegetarians arenot entirely un-cateredfor, and can opt for anassemblage of basic sidedishes: horiatiki salata(Greek salad), tzatziki(yoghurt and cucumberdip), saganaki (friedcheese) and tiganitespatates (chips).
Meal timesThe majority of
Greeks adhere to theage-old tradition of astrong wake-me-up coffeefor breakfast, then eatlunch around 3pm anddinner after 10pm. Mostrestaurants serve lunchbetween noon and 4pmand dinner from 8pmuntil midnight, though intouristy areas such asPlaka you’ll find thatmany establishmentsstay open all day.
DressGreeks regularly eat
out with family and friendsand tend to dress infor-mally for such occasions.Although it’s best not toturn up in shorts, menare never required towear ties, even in thesmartest restaurants,though Greek womenusually dress to impresson a night out.
Live musicMany tavernas, par-
ticularly in Plaka, lay onnighttime performancesof traditional Greek music.They are mainly intendedfor tourists, but can belively and entertainingnevertheless.
TippingIt is customary to
leave a 10% tip if youhave enjoyed your mealand were satisfied withthe service. In the weekpreceding Easter and atChristmas restaurantsadd on an obligatory 18%to the bill for the waiters.
Stre
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art Left A Plaka taverna Right Ouzeri
For the best places to eat in Athens see pp56–7; for the top Greekdishes see pp58–9
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when you use the bath-room, put paper in thewhite plastic bin provided,not down the toilet.Failure to comply withthis rule means runningthe risk of blocked drainsand flooded bathrooms.
The DogsAn estimated 150,000
stray dogs live on Athens’streets. In an effort tolimit their multiplication,the city council has setup a sterilization scheme,rather than having themput down. These dogsare generally completelyharmless, but can appearalarming when running inpacks, especially duringthe mating season.
”No Smoking”Greeks smoke almost
twice as many cigarettesper capita than the Euro-pean average. In late2002, smoking wasofficially banned in allenclosed public spaces,and restaurants weresupposed to adoptdesignated “Smoking”and “No smoking” areas.However, it remains tobe seen how seriouslyGreeks will take this law,so don’t count on asmoke-free holiday.
Driving in AthensThis is a congested
city. There are many one-way streets and pedes-trianized streets in thecentre, parking is scarceand the Greeks drivewith wild abandon. For allthese reasons, it is best
Getting RippedOff by Taxi Drivers
Athens’ taxis might becheap but one occasion-ally hears stories of tour-ists being overcharged.To avoid this, simplycheck that the taxi’smeter is displayed andthat it is switched on atthe start of your journey.
Pushy ToutsThe streets of Plaka
are thronged with touts,eager to pull passers-byinto restaurants andsouvenir shops. To alesser degree this is trueof other city-centre neigh-bourhoods. Most of theseestablishments offerperfectly good services,but don’t let yourself bebullied into eating orshopping somewhereagainst your will.
Entering Churchesin Skimpy Clothes
Respect local customs:even in summer, ensureyour shoulders, chest andlegs are covered up whenvisiting churches.
Travelling Withouta Valid Ticket
Random stop-checks takeplace of the buses, tramsand metro, and failure todisplay a valid ticket incursan on-the-spot fine,ranging from €18 to €29.
Flushing PaperDown Toilets
The Greek plumbing sys-tem has narrow drainsthat are not adept atdealing with toilet paper:
for visitors to use publictransport, taxis and feet(see p133).
Feeding CatsWhen Dining Out
While its very temptingto offer titbits to sad-eyed cats imploring youwith soft meows, you arelikely to incur the wrathof the restaurateur. Straycats are all too plentiful,and a major nuisance toAthens’ restaurants.
PhotographingMilitary Bases
Remember the much-publicized story of the12 British and two Dutchplane-spotters who werearrested for taking notesat a Greek army airbasein November 2001? Theywere subsequentlyimprisoned on spyingcharges and claim tohave spent £25,000 eachin legal costs to provetheir innocence. Allmilitary installations areclearly marked with asign showing “nocameras”: photographyand note-taking arestrictly forbidden!
Things to Avoid
Streetsmart
Left Street hawkers Right Busy street scene
Emergencies
General emergencies
• Police 100• Ambulance 166• Fire brigade 199
Hospitals
• Hospital/clinics onduty 1434• Pharmacies on duty 1434
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Specialist Tourscruise around the islandsof Aegina, Poros andHydra, with a short stopat each. Lunch on boardis part of the deal, andyou’re back in town forthe early evening.
DelphiKey Tours and Fantasy
Travel both offer a full-day trip from Athens tothe archaeological site ofDelphi. After lunch, thetour takes in the pictur-esque hillside town ofArachova, renowned forits hand-woven rugs andexcellent local cheese.
Hiking on MountParnitha
For a breath of mountainair, book up with TrekkingHellas for a 4-hour hikingexpedition up Mount Par-nitha. A professional guidewill lead you along a mark-ed route up the craggyHouni ravine from AgiaTriada to the Bafi refuge.
One-Day Sailing Trip
Ghiolman Yachts have afleet of smart boats ofvarious sizes available fortailor-made one-day sailingtrips in the company ofan English-speakingskipper. This is undoubt-edly the best way toexplore the islands.
One-Day Diving Trip
The Aegean Dive Centerorganizes diving trips to awreck, a cave and a reefalong the coast betweenGlyfada and Cape Sounio.
Half-Day AthensSightseeing
If you’re short of time, leta professional guide whiskyou through the city’sancient core. Key Toursorganize amusing andinformative tours, startingfrom the KalimarmaroStadium (see p95), thenwending through the cityto the Acropolis.
Athens by NightFantasy Travel arrange
evening bus trips to thesea at Piraeus, stoppingat Mikrolimani for anouzo aperitif overlookingthe fishing harbour. Thenit’s back to the centre fordinner in a Plaka taverna.
Cape SounioAn afternoon bus tour
along the coast southwestof Athens, past the sea-side suburbs of Glyfada,Voula and Vouliagmeni,to the stunning clifftopTemple of Poseidon (seep123). There’s just timefor an early evening drinkbefore a return to Athens.
Evening Cruise toEpidauros Theatre
Throughout July, EpirotikiTours arrange evening boattrips to Epidauros for anopen-air theatrical perfor-mance in the ancienttheatre. A candlelitdinner is served aboardon the return journey.
One-Day Cruise ofSaronic Islands
Epirotiki Tours’ boatsdepart early morningfrom Paleo Faliro, then
With water temperaturesaround 26ºC (79ºF) insummer and 14ºC (57ºF)in winter, diving is pos-sible all the year round.The staff speak excellentEnglish, and tuition isavailable to those with noprevious experience.
Helicopter Tours For a dramatic bird’s-
eye view of the city, takea helicopter ride with HopIn Zinon. Flights can bearranged throughout theyear, and you can choosethe route you wish totake. Expect to pay €625per person (minimum 2passengers) for 30minutes’ flying time.
Stre
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art Left Tour group Right Epidauros theatre
Directory
• Aegean Dive Center,Zamanou 53, Pand-horas, Glyfada; 210 8945409; www.adc.gr
• Epirotiki Tours, 210 4291501; www.epirotiki.gr
• Fantasy Travel,Xenofondos 8; 210 3228410 & 331 0530–3;www.fantasy.gr
• Ghiolman Yachts, Filel-linon 7; 210 323 0330;www.ghiolman.com
• Hop In Zinon, Zanni29, Piraeus; 210 4285500; www.hopin.com
• Key Tours, Kallirois 4;210 923 3166 & 9233266; www.keytours.gr
• Trekking Hellas,Filellinon 7; 210 3310323–6; www.trekking.gr
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to bargain for prices lowerthan those quoted, espe-cially if staying for longerperiods during low season.
What’s Includedin the Price?
Quoted prices usuallyinclude continental break-fast, a standard 12%service charge, and 10%tax. The use of hotelfacilities such as gymsand pools is normallyfree to guests. Rooms inthe better hotels have airconditioning, though inthe cheaper places youmight have to pay extrafor this facility, if it isavailable at all.
Late ArrivalsIf you’ve just got off
a plane and need a placeto stay, the new SofitelAthens Airport Hotel isan excellent if ratherpricey option (see p141).Alternatively, Plotin Travel(210 353 0440), oppositethe Arrivals area, is open7am–11pm and can helpyou find reasonablypriced accommodation.
Single TravellersIf you are travelling
alone and looking forcheap accommodationthe YHA (see p145) is agood bet. A grade or twoup, the Marble HousePension (see p143) andthe Hotel Plaka (seep142) both have severalsingle rooms. Otherwise,as a general rule, oneperson in a double paysthe full rate, minus thesecond breakfast.
Choosing a HotelThe Hellenic Chamber
of Hotels have a completelist of hotels in Athens andcan make reservationsfor you. The GNTO (seep131) website also hasan extensive list of hotels.
WebsitesThe websites listed
in the directory are easyto use and book through,and many offer substant-ial discounts. Many sitesselling flights (see p132)also offer hotel-bookingservices.
CentralAccommodation
Athens’ suburbs are vast,and if you choose accom-modation on the peripheryyou will waste a lot oftime travelling to the mainsights. The most centrallylocated hotels are in theareas of Plaka, Makrigianni,Koukaki, Monastiraki,Thissio and Syntagma.
High SeasonHigh season runs from
early July to late Septem-ber. The period from Aprilto June, plus the monthof October are mid-season, and low seasonruns from the beginningof November to the endof March. Seasonal pricedifferences vary fromhotel to hotel.
BargainingFor all but the luxury
hotels, do not be ashamedto try and agree discountswith the hotel manage-ment – it is often possible
Disabled TravellersWhen booking your
hotel, bear in mind thatmodern hotels tend to befar better equipped. TheHilton and the AthenaeumInter-Continental bothhave several roomsspecifically designed fordisabled travellers.
ChildrenMost hotels allow
one or two children (thecut off age varies from12 to 18) to stay in theirparents’ double room –the extra beds are free,you just pay for breakfast.Many of the better hotelsalso offer babysitting.
Accommodation Tips
Streetsmart
Acropolis at night
Directory
Hellenic Chamber
of Hotels
• Stadiou 24; 210 331 2535-6• Help Desk, Stadiou24, on the 7th floor;8am–2pm Mon–Fri
Websites
• www.athens.hotels-nb.com• www.discounthotelreservation.org• www.holidaycityeurope.com• www.totalstay.com • www.uk.placestostay.com
Sofitel Athens
Airport Hotel
• 210 354 4000 • www.sofitel.com
140
Luxury and Boutique Hotelspool and a fitness andbeauty centre. An ever-changing selection ofcontemporary art isdisplayed in the lobby.d Harilaou Trikoupi 48, Kefalari, Kifissia • Map T2 •210 628 4400 • www.semiramisathens.com • €€€€
St GeorgeLycabettus
A chic 157-room hotel,built into the pine-scentedslopes of Lykavittos Hill. Fulluse is made of the rooftop,with an excellent restau-rant, a swimming pool anda bar sharing the views. Aminibus service will whiskyou to Plateia Syntagma.d 2 Kleomenous, Kolonaki• Map F3 • 210 729 0711 •www.sglycabettus.gr • €€€€
Hotel PentelikonIn the smart northern
suburb of Kifissia, thischarming 1920s’ buildingis set in peaceful gardenswith a swimming pool.Each of the 30 rooms and14 suites is individuallystyled. And then there’sthe superb Vardis restau-rant (see p56). d Deligianni55, Kefalari, Kifissia • MapT2 • 210 623 0650 • www.hotelpentelikon.gr • €€€€€
Life GalleryAn all-glass boutique
designer hotel with 30rooms, studios andsuites set in a gardenwith trees and a pool.The modern, minimalistfurnishing iscomplemented by earthycolours (cream, coffee,grey and beige) and
King George II This grandiose hotel
and former retreat of therich and famous reopenedin 2004 after a 14-yearclosure. The 104 roomsand suites, all with marblebathrooms, are individuallyfurnished with selectantiques. d Vas GeorgiouA, Syntagma • Map M3 • 210 322 2210 •www.grecotel.gr • €€€€
Hotel GrandeBretagne
With its marble lobby, ori-ental carpets and glitteringchandeliers, this grandioseestablishment exudestimeless luxury. The opu-lence continues through327 rooms and suites, arooftop restaurant and pool,and the fitness centre.d Georgiou 1 • Map M3• 210 333 0000 • www.hotelgrandebretagne.gr • €€€€€
Divani AcropolisA mere stone’s throw
from the Acropolis, thishotel is popular with well-heeled Greeks, keen on theprofusion of gilt, mirrorsand potted palms. Drinksand buffets are served onthe roof garden in summer,and there’s a preservedsection of the ancientThemistoklean Wall in thebasement. d Parthenonos19–25, Makrigianni • MapC6 • 210 9280 100 • €€€
SemiramisOrange, pink and lime-
green predominate in thisfunky 52-room hoteldesigned by Karim Rashid.There’s a heated outdoor
atmospheric lighting.Facilities include theAnanea Health and Spa.d Thiseos 103, Ekali •Map T2 • 210 626 0400• www.bluegr.com • €€€€
Divani ApollonPalace
A vast seaside hotel, thespacious rooms adornedwith oak furniture andmarble bathrooms. Thecomplex gives onto aprivate beach, and thereare also out- and indoorpools. A shuttle busserves Plateia Syntagma.d Vouliagmeni • Map T3• 210 891 1100 • www.divaniapollon.gr • €€€€
Astir PalaceResort
Very exclusive seasideresort that’s popular withthe Greek jet set. The com-plex encompasses threehotels, private beaches,leisure facilities and sea-water pools. Shuttle busesand limousines provideaccess to central Athens. d Vouliagmeni • Map T3• 210 890 2000 • www.astir.gr • €€€€€
The Margi HotelA 5-minute walk from
Vouliagmeni beach, thisgem of a hotel comprises110 rooms and 11 suites,decorated in warm hues,with 19th-century antiquesand marble bathrooms.The lounge bar is whereguests relax in the even-ings on poolside sofas.d Litous 11, Vouliagmeni• Map T3 • 210 896 2061• www.margi.gr • €€€€
Stre
etsm
art Left St George Lycabettus Right Athenaeum Intercontinental
Note: Unless otherwise stated, all hotels accept credit cards, have en-suite bathrooms and air conditioning (A/C)
141
its full range of businessfacilities, 24-hour restau-rant and well-appointedrooms – plus extras likefree sessions with a per-sonal trainer in the gym.There’s a free hourlyshuttle to the city centre.d Syngrou 385, DeltaFalirou • 210 947 1000• www.chandris.gr • €€€
Ledra MarriottFriendly, helpful staff
and equally appealingrooms, decorated in warmhues, with nice toucheslike goosedown duvetsand marble bathrooms.The Polynesian Kona Kairestaurant is highly ratedand a favourite of busi-ness diners. d Syngrou 115• Map T2 • 210 930 0000• www.marriott.com • €€€
Athenaeum Inter-Continental
Well-equipped, modernand stylish, if a little lackingin character. The excellentbusiness facilities makeit popular with executives,who probably also appreci-ate the gym, sauna, pooland shuttle to the citycentre. d Syngrou 89–93,Neos Kosmos • Map T2• 210 920 6000 • www.intercontinental.com • €€€€
Athens Park HotelOverlooking the lush
greenery of Pedion AreosPark, this smart hotel has152 rooms and suitesdecorated in subtle mutedhues, each with a greymarble bathroom. Rooftoppool and fitness centred Leoforos Alexandras 10,
NJV Athens PlazaSmack in the centre
of town, this hotel hasbig, beautiful designerrooms with marble bath-rooms, massage showers,Bulgari toiletries, afamously elegant lobbyand a 24-hour businesscentre. Rooms on theeighth and ninth floorshave great views of theAcropolis. d VasileosGeorgiou & Stadiou • Map M3 • 210 335 2400• www.grecotel.gr • €€€€
The Hilton Having undergone
massive refurbishment in2003, Athens Hilton istypically smart, functionaland modern. Ample facili-ties include six restau-rants, two bars (one onthe rooftop), a swimmingpool and health centre,plus extensive conferenceamenities. d VasilissisSofias 46, Ilissia • Map G4• 210 728 1000 • www.athens.hilton.com • €€€€€
Athenian CallirhoeA new addition, and
one with a clear focus onstyle. The metal-toned,minimalist lobby leads upto rooms that aredesigner-sleek, sharp andfully fitted out withluxury amenities. Staffseem genuinely eager tomake your stay a pleasure.d Kallirois 32 & Petmeza• Map C6 • 210 921 5353• www.tac.gr • €€€
MetropolitanEver popular with
executive travellers for
Exarhia • Map D1 • 210 8894500 • www.athensparkhotel.gr • €€€
Divani CaravelThe lobby is decorated
with antiques and marble,the rooms fitted out withevery business amenity.There are restaurants andbars, and a rooftop gardenwith an indoor/outdoorpool. A free shuttle takesyou to Syntagma, and35 of the rooms haveAcropolis views. d VasileosAlexandrou 2, Pangrati• Map G5 • 210 720 7000• €€€€
Fresh HotelClose to the gritty
Central Market, Freshbrings designer chic todowntown Athens. The133 rooms haveminimalist furniture invivid oranges, pinks andgreens. There is a rooftopcafé with a small pool.d Sophokleous 26 &Klisthenous, Psiri • Map J1• 210 524 8511 •www.freshhotel.gr • €€€
SofitelSofitel shatters the
perception that airporthotels must be bland.Soundproof rooms areelegant, sophisticated,and packed with amenities.Business and conferencefacilities are among thebest in Greece, and theglassed-in rooftop poolhas fascinating runwayviews. d Athens Airport,Spata, Attica • Map T3• 210 354 4000 • www.sofitel.com • €€€€€
Business and High-End Hotels
Streetsmart
Left Callirhoe Right Metropolitan
€ under €100€€ €100–€150
€€€ €150–€250€€€€ €250–€350
€€€€€ over €350
Price Categories
For a standard,double room pernight (with breakfast if included), taxes and extra charges.
142
Mid-Range Hotelsget a stylish restaurantand lobby, and bright,comfortable rooms withroom service, satellite TV,business amenities, and, ifyou ask, Acropolis views.Though not located in atourist neighbourhood,it’s within an easy walkof most sights. d Falirou37–39, Koukaki • Map C6• 210 922 9151-5 • www.acropoliselect.gr • €€
HerodionLocated in a quiet
neighbourhood just belowthe Acropolis, this attrac-tive, modern hotel hascomfortable, newlydecorated rooms, thepale green and light woodaccents of which feel cooland relaxing after a daytouring the sights. Otherfeatures include internetconnections in every roomand a flower-filled break-fast atrium. d RobertouGalli 4, Makrigianni • MapC6 • 210 923 6832• www.herodion.gr • €€€
AmaliaPrice and location (on
Plateia Syntagma, directlyacross from the NationalGardens) combine admir-ably. The rooms are com-fortable, functional and,despite facing a noisymajor road, surprisinglyquiet. d Amalias 10, Syn-tagma • Map M4 • 210 3237301 • www.amalia.gr • €€
Athens CypriaLocated just steps
away from the bustle ofSyntagma and the top-notch shopping of Ermou,
Hotel PlakaThis hotel is great
value for its unbeatablelocation between Plakaand the shopping streetof Ermou, and for itswarm and simple butstylish rooms. The roofgarden looks out to theAcropolis. d Kapnikareas 7& Mitropoleos, Monastiraki• Map K3 • 210 322 2096• www.plakahotel.gr • €€
Electra PalaceProbably the nicest
place to stay in Plaka, thisstylish, modern hotel hasa cleverly constructedmock Neo-Classicalfaçade. The pool on theroof, with an Acropolisview, is a great place tocool off after a day ofsight-seeing. d NavarchouNikodimou 18, Plaka • MapL4 • 210 337 0000 •www.electrahotels.gr • €€€
AdrianThe Adrian offers
rooms that are small, cleanand serviceable, if some-what sterile, in the heartof Plaka next to Hadrian’sLibrary. The rooms havesmall balconies and theroof garden has lovelyviews. The café-filledsquare below is a niceplace to sit, but can getnoisy at night. d Adrianou74, Plaka • Map J3 • 210322 1553 • www.douros-hotels.com • €€
Acropolis SelectThis is one of the
best deals in town. Foronly a little more thanmost budget hotels, you
the Cypria’s recentlyrenovated rooms are cleanand comfortable, if a littlebland and uniform. A heftybreakfast buffet offershot and cold dishes until10am. d Diomeias 5,Syntagma • Map L3 • 210323 8034 • €€
Esperia PalaceA good central option
for a short stay, locatedon one of the city’s busi-est streets. Rooms arequiet and tastefully fur-nished, and offer a widerange of facilities. Roomsabove the seventh floorhave Acropolis views.d Stadiou 22, Panepistimiou• Map L2 • 210 323 8001–9• www.esperia.gr • €€€
TitaniaCapacious rooms and
bathrooms for this pricebracket, and the hotel’sin a central location too.However, though close tothe sights, bear in mindthat this is the gritty,rather than glamorous,end of central Athens.d Panepistimiou 52, Omonia• Map L1 • 210 332 6000• www.titania.gr • €
Omonia GrandThis bright, modern,
stylish hotel, run by theGrecotel chain, is one ofthe projects aimed atsprucing up PlateiaOmonia. So far, it hasgained a good name forthe hip decor, comfortablerooms and friendly staff.d Pireos 2, Omonia • Map C2 • 210 528 2100• www.grecotel.com • €€
Stre
etsm
art Left Esperia Palace Right Titania
Note: Unless otherwise stated, all hotels accept credit cards, have en-suite bathrooms and air conditioning (A/C)
143
rooms are far from suave,their style taking the formof lino, fluorescent lightsand dorm-quality furniture.It’s located halfwaybetween the colourfulCentral Market and theanarchic Monastiraki FleaMarket. d Athinas 29,Monastiraki • Map J2 • 210321 2801 • €
Cecil HotelJust down the street
from the Attalos, in thesame colourful-cum-seedydistrict. Quite a differentinterior, though, in thisrenovated Neo-Classicalmansion, with polishedwood floors, high mouldedceilings and bright, cosyfurnishings. Still fairlybasic, but a cheerfulatmosphere prevails.d Athinas 39, Monastiraki• Map J2 • 210 321 7079• www.cecil.gr • €
Jason InnExcellent value. The
Rooms and services aremuch nicer and moremodern than you mightexpect from the budgetbracket, and guests havehigh praise for the helpful,friendly service. Thoughnot in a tourist neighbour-hood, it’s still an easy walkto several sights and goodrestaurants. d Asomaton12, Monastiraki • Map B3• 210 325 1106 • www.douros-hotels.com • €€
King JasonSimilarly turned out
sibling of the Jason Inn,so rooms are stylish aswell as clean and com-
Marble HousePension
A favourite of studentsand artists, Marble Househas clean, simple roomsand a friendly attitude. Itoffers discounted toursand monthly rates in theoff season. Guests payextra for air conditioningand private bath. d Zini35A, Koukaki • Map B6• 210 923 4058 • www.marblehouse.gr • €
Art Gallery Hotel The priciest of the
budget options, but thehotel offers nice woodenfloors, art in every roomand a short walk to theAcropolis and severalgood restaurants. Thereare low monthly rates inthe off season. No break-fast served. d Erethiou 5,Koukaki • Map C6 • 210923 8376 • €
Acropolis HouseThis 120-year-old
house right in the middleof Plaka is a favouritewith artists and profes-sors, who enjoy the quiet,historic location and theoriginal frescoes in theentryway. Rooms arebasic and clean, thoughmost have ugly linoleumfloors and only half haveair conditioning – forwhich guests pay extra.d Kodrou 6–8, Plaka • MapL4 • 210 322 2344 • €
Hotel AttalosIt’s central, cheap
and clean, and if that’s allyou require then theAttalos is fine. But the
fortable. The bar and res-taurant are cheerful andpleasant, thankfully, as therun-down neighbourhooddoesn’t offer much in theway of sustenance.d Kolonou 26, Metaxourgeio• Map B2 • 210 523 4721 •www.douros-hotels.com • €
Hotel CarolinaAlmost exclusively in-
habited by students andbackpackers, the Carolinahas a perpetual interna-tional-party vibe. It’s a funplace to meet people, butcan get noisy at night.Current renovations willprovide comfortable newbeds. d Kolokotroni 55,Syntagma • Map K2 • 210324 3551 • €
The ExarcheionA fixture on the inter-
national backpacking circuitfor years. Rooms are sparebut well kept, prices arecheap, the staff is youngand friendly and the smalloutdoor bar is in thecentre of lively, student-filled Plateia Exarcheia.d Themistokleous 55,Exarcheia • Map D2 • 210380 1256 • €
Hotel DryadesSimilar to The Exar-
cheion in terms of valueand the level of facilities,but Hotel Dryades is lesscentral and thereforequieter. It’s also locatednear several modellingagencies, who frequentlyuse the hotel to put upmodels. d Dryadon 4,Exarcheia • Map D1• 210 382 7116 • €
Budget Hotels
Streetsmart
Left Marble House Pension Right Art Gallery Hotel
€ under €100€€ €100–€150
€€€ €150–€250€€€€ €250–€350
€€€€€ over €350
Price Categories
For a standard,double room pernight (with breakfast if included), taxes and extra charges.
144
Long-Stay Hotels & ApartmentsComfortable rooms havemost amenities, but nolong-stay extras likekitchenettes or livingareas. d Kifissias 43,Ambelokipi • 210 698 9500• €€
Blazer SuitesThe entire hotel is
suites and apartments, aconvenience for the long-stay guest. The accom-modation is pleasant,simple rather thanluxurious and the bath-rooms employ a distincteconomy of scale. Thelocation is Athens’southernmost suburb –great for clean air, nearbybeaches and summerclubs, but a bit of a slogto reach the city centre.d Karamanli 1–3, Voula• 210 965 8801–7 • €€€€
Oasis HotelApartments
Another of the manyapartment-only hotels inthe wealthy southernsuburbs. Most of thetwo-room apartmentswith kitchenettes havesea views; those thatdon’t overlook the hotel’sbest advantage, a gardencourtyard with a pool andJacuzzi. All are served byfull hotel amenities,including extras likechildcare. d Poseidonos27, Glyfada • 210 894 1555• www.oasishotel.gr • €€€
Brasil HotelApartments
Located in a quiet resi-dential neighbourhood inthe wealthy southern
Tony’s HotelThese studios are
smaller than many hotelrooms, and the cold tilefloors don’t lend them-selves to a homely feel.However, they are newand clean, offering well-fitted bathrooms andkitchenettes, largebalconies and a shortwalk to the Acropolis.d Zacharista 26, Koukaki •Map B1 • 210 923 0561 • €
Holiday Suites These comfortable
suites and studio apart-ments are run by HolidayInn, and offer all the ser-vices and amenities ofthat chain. All have largebathrooms, kitchenettes,and a small office area.The location is a shortdistance from the centre,which can be quicklyreached by bus or cab.d Arnis 4, Ilissia • 210 727800 • €€€€€
Delice HotelApartments
These studios, suites andapartments are fairlybasic but generously pro-portioned, with separatebedrooms, kitchens andliving areas. The locationoffers little in the way ofsights, restaurants andbars, so you’ll need totake a bus to the centreof town. d VasileosAlexandrou 3 & Vrasida,Ilissia • 210 723 8111 • €€€
President Hotel This is a full-service
hotel that rents almostexclusively by the month.
suburb of Glyfada, thishotel offers one and twobedroom apartmentswith full kitchens andaccess to all hotel ser-vices, including businessfacilities. The hotel isclose to the beach andsurrounded by gardens.d Eleftherias 4, Glyfada• 210 894 2124–6 • www.brasilhotel.gr • €€€€
Oneiro LuxuryApartments
Most of these one- andtwo-bedroom apartmentsare quite luxurious, fittedout with antiques, chan-deliers and views of theSaronic Gulf. In additionto a pool, Jacuzzi andbusiness facilities, thereare also well appointedpublic spaces and agarden. d Psiloriti 98–100,Ano Glyfada • 210 963 3011,964 6787 • €€€€–€€€€€
Best ValueProperties
This estate agentspecializes in short-termleases on furnished apart-ments all over Athens –an especially good optionfor scholars or business-people looking to staymore than a month ortwo. d 210 671 7554
The Greek RealEstate Group
This property promotiongroup helps visitors findholiday rentals andtimeshares for varyingperiods all over Athens.d Dousmani 5, Suite 134,Glyfada • 210 964 9514• www.greekreg.com
Stre
etsm
art Left and Right Brasil Hotel Apartments
Note: Long-stay suites and apartments are usually priced permonth, but most offer weekly rates if requested
€ under €1,000€€ €1,000–€2,000
€€€ €2,000–€3,000€€€€ €3,000–€4,500
€€€€€ over €4,500
Price Categories
For a double room,suite or apartmentper month, includingtaxes and anyadditional charges.
145
walk from most sightsand downtown. Privaterooms and dorms havewooden floors, big win-dows and private phoneswith internet access. Bath-rooms are shared, but eachbedroom has its own sinkand mirror. d Kydathinaion16, Plaka • Map L4 • 210324 4808 • A/C
Dioskouros Guest House
A favourite with the inter-national backpacking set.Dorms and private roomsthat sleep up to four areusually packed in summer,but students and youngpeople don’t seem tomind, instead enjoyingthe festive atmosphere.Most gather to enjoy abeer in the garden outback at the day’s end.d Pittakou 6, Plaka • MapL5 • 210 324 8165
Hotel TempiThe best thing about
the Tempi is its wonderfullocation on a central butquiet pedestrian street,overlooking a church, theMonastiraki flower marketand the Acropolis. Roomsare rock-bottom basic, butthe family running thehotel are helpful and canalso arrange city tours.d Aiolou 29, Monastiraki• Map K3 • 210 321 3175
AthensInternational
Youth HostelThe location is central, ifa little seedy, but thesuper-cheap dorm bedsare in immaculate, quiet
Youth Hostel No. 5 Pangrati
Far from the sights andthe buzz of the city centre,but prices for dorm bedscan’t be beaten. This isthe headquarters of theGreek Association of YouthHostels, an organizationthat can help you findcheap accommodationthroughout the country.d Damareos 75, Pangrati• 210 751 9530
Phivos Representing a great
deal for its bulls-eyecentral location, Phivos isthe newest city-centreaddition to Athens’collection of hostels.The hostel is run by avery friendly and helpfulowner, and all the roomscome with bathroomsand air conditioning.d Athinas 23, Syntagma• Map L4 • 210 323 2455• A/C
John’s PlaceAnother perfectly
central location for thissmall, friendly, family-runguesthouse. Despite itslow prices, the old-fashioned rooms stillhave basic amenities andcomforts, including thewelcome respite of airconditioning. d Patroou 5,Syntagma • Map L3 • 210322 9179 • A/C
Student andTravellers’ Inn
This spotless, cheerful,recently renovated hostelis located in a prettyquarter of Plaka, an easy
rooms (a real achieve-ment in this part of town),and the staff are glad tohelp you. Facilities includelaundry and a kitchen forguests. d Victor Hugo 16,Metaxourgio • Map B2• 210 523 2049
Zorba’s HotelA good place for a
night or two on a tightbudget. Tiny, clean roomsand dorm beds on a noisystreet in an area that’s rundown but close to thecentre. Pluses are a wel-coming staff who speakperfect English, and largebathrooms. d Gkilfordou10, Omonia • Map C1 • 210823 4239 • A/C
Hostel AphroditeClean dorm beds and
a lively atmosphere. Onceagain, a somewhat seedyarea, but it’s not too farto the centre and it’sclose to the train station.Facilities include laundryand pay internet access.Students and backpackersgather at the bar down-stairs. d Einardou 12,Omonia • 210 881 0589• Open Mar–Oct
Athens CampingThe only campsite
in the Athens area andthus the cheapest sleeparound. But it’s locatedin a depressing strip offa busy highway well overan hour outside the city.Head here as a lastresort when you’recompletely strapped forcash. d Leoforos Athinon198 • 210 581 4114
Hostels, Camping & Cheap Sleeps
Streetsmart
Left Student and Travellers’ Inn Right Athens International Youth Hostel
Note: All the establishments listed here are less than €50 per night;dorm beds are no more than €16 per night
146
High-End Hotels Outside Athensto stay in all of Greece.The quaint rooms andflower-filled courtyard arelovely, though some regu-lars say that service hasdipped a little. d Harbour,Hydra • Map S4 • 2298053971 • Mar–Oct • €€
Poseidon ResortThis resort has a small
private beach and exten-sive gardens, as well assports, spa and conferencefacilities. Accommodationvaries widely in size, styleand luxury, from individualrooms to villas. The spruced-up bungalows are best,with their shiny woodenfloors and cotton canopies.d Boutsi Loutrakiou area,Loutraki • Map R2 • 2744067938 • www.poseidonresort.gr • €€€
Nafplia PalaceNafplio’s nicest hotel
was undergoing renova-tions at the time of writing.New decorative toucheswill include large, wood-and-marble rooms. Whatwon’t change is its un-beatable location on thehill of Acronafplia, withinthe ancient fortress walls.d Acronafplia, Nafplio • MapR3 • 27520 28981 • www.nafplionhotels.gr • €€€
AKS Porto CheliOverlooking the Argo-
likos Gulf, this is a goodbase for exploring boththe Peloponnese and theisland of Spetses. Recentlyrenovated, it now hasspacious rooms with largebeds and offers a fullrange of resort services
Grand ResortLagonissi
This vast resort complexspreads out over its ownpeninsula between Sounioand Vouliagmeni. It encom-passes 16 beaches, witha range of seafront suitesand lavish villas with theirown pools. There is also ahost of restaurants and avariety of organized activi-ties. d Athens–Sounio road,Lagonissi • Map T3 • 2291076000 • www.lagonissiresort.gr • Apr–Nov • €€€€€
Grecotel Cape Sounio
Besides all the mod consyou’d expect following atotal overhaul, this branchof the Grecotel chain is seton a verdant hillside, withspectacular views of thesea and Temple of Posei-don. d Athens–Sounio Rd• Map T3 • 22920 69700• www.grecotel.gr • €€€€
Club MediterraneeMare Nostrum
Located on a bay near thesite of Vavrona, this newClub Med offers the all-inclusive package of activi-ties and fun for which thechain is known. Its standoutfeature is an indoor marblepool and spa with a starry-night ceiling. d VavronaCoast • Map T3 • www.clubmed.com • 210 9301192 • €€ (minimum sevennights’ stay, inclusive of allmeals, drinks and activities)
BratseraThis hotel in a former
sponge factory is one ofthe most charming places
and activities, includingchildcare. d Portocheli• Map S4 • 2754 053 400• www.akshotels.com • €€
Thermae SyllaGrand Hotel
One of the best spas inGreece, the Thermae Syllaoffers treatments in Evia’srestorative mineral-ladenspring waters, along witha wide array of beauty andrelaxation treatments. Thebeautiful external architec-ture has been preserved,but rooms and treatmentareas are fully modern.d Edipsos, Evia • Map S1• 22260 60100 • www.thermaesylla.gr • €€€€
Elatos Resort,Arachova
Greece’s only Alpine resortis set in a pine forest at theedge of Parnassos NationalPark. All 40 chalets havetwo to three bedrooms,kitchens, fireplaces andverandas. The central build-ings offer a fully equippedhealth club, bar andrestaurant. d Itamos, nrArachova • Map R1 • 2234061162 • www.elatos.com• €€€€
XeniaComfortable, classic
rooms with woodenaccents have a wonderfulview of the olive grovesdescending belowDelphi. There is also anindoor pool and full gymand fitness club. This isone of the few hotels inGreece where pets arewelcome. d Delphi • MapQ1 • 22650 82151 • €€
Stre
etsm
art Left Poseidon Resort Centre Nafplia Palace Right Xenia
Note: Unless otherwise stated, all hotels accept credit cards, have en-suite bathrooms and air conditioning (A/C)
147
PensionAcronafplia
If this pretty pension isfull, the owners can findrooms for you in one oftheir other small hotelsaround town. Within thepension, the accom-modation varies – not allrooms have private bath-rooms or air conditioning,but the pricing reflectsthis fairly. Many optionsare very pleasant, includ-ing rooms with colourfullypainted wooden floorsand wrought-iron beds.d Vasileos Konstandinou 23,Nafplio • Map R3 • 2752024481 • www.pension-acronafplia.com • €
Dimitris BekasThe best budget
option in Nafplio. Theserooms in the old city areplain and spare, but clean,and there’s a great seaview from the sitting areaon the roof. All roomshave televisions, but mostshare a bathroom. No A/C,but fans and the highlocation keep things cool.d Efthimiopoulou 26,Nafplio • Map R3 • 2752024594 • No A/C or creditcards • €
King OthonThis two-storey Neo-
Classical building with de-lightfully painted ceilingsis located near the centreof old Nafplio. Comfortablerooms come in severalsizes, and breakfastincludes home-bakedgoodies. d Farmakopou-lou 4, Nafplio • Map R3• 27520 27595 • €
Hotel GanimedeThe rooms in this
19th-century mansion aresimple but elegant; how-ever, the real draw is thecombination of a courtyardgarden overflowing withfragrant flowers, thesumptuous breakfastsand the warm hospitalityof the Italian owners.d Gourgouri 16, Galaxidi• Map Q1 • 22650 41328• www.gsp.gr/ganimede.gr• Closed Nov–Dec • Nocredit cards • €
ArchontikoThe themed rooms
sound kitschy, but mostmanage to work. The“Bridal” has a hugecanopy bed draped withsheer white linen; the “AtSea” is decorated like aboat; while adventurouscouples go for the “Con-ception”, with a round bedand mirrored ceiling. Whennot enjoying their rooms,guests can stroll in thepleasant garden. d Visithra,close to the harbour,Galaxidi • Map Q1 • 2265042292 • No credit cards • €
Hotel BelleHelene
German archaeologistHeinrich Schliemann slepthere (room No. 3) whileexcavating Mycenae, andmany a classicist hasfollowed in his footsteps.Modern tourists can enjoyclean, quiet, comfortablerooms in addition to thehotel’s historic cachet.d Christou Tsounta 15,Mycenae • Map R3 • 27510 76225 • €
Hotel TholosThis is a good budget
option in Delphi. Roomsare cheap, clean andnicely furnished, and theowners are friendly.d Apollonos 31, Delphi• Map Q1 • 22650 82268• No A/C or credit cards • €
Hotel OlympicA slightly more up-
market, but still veryaffordable, Delphi option.Rooms are cosy, rusticand spotless, and thefireplace in the loungefeels great during snowywinters (the peak season).d Vasileon Pavlou &Friderikis 59, Delphi • MapQ1 • 2265 082793 • €
Hotel ParnassosA good budget option
just outside the mountainvillage of Arachova. Thereis one bathroom forevery two of the sparebut clean rooms. No A/C,but Mount Parnassosrarely gets hot enoughto need it. d Delphon,Arachova • Map R1 • 2267031307 • No A/C • €
EginitikoArhontiko
A 19th-century mansionwith loads of character:painted ceilings, a stained-glass-windowed parlourand a garden courtyard.Rooms are small and clean,albeit with a few peelingpaint patches here andthere and banging pipes.d Thomaidou & AgiosNikoloau, Agia Marina,Aegina • Map S3 • 2297024968 • €
Mid & Budget Outside Athens
Streetsmart
Hotel Parnassos
€ under €100€€ €100–€150
€€€ €150–€250€€€€ €250–€350
€€€€€ over €350
Price Categories
For a standard,double room pernight (with breakfast if included), taxes and extra charges.
148
Ind
ex
General IndexArchontiko 147Areopagos rock 53Argive Heraion 120Argos 118Aristera-Dexia restaurant
56, 84Aristokratikon 83Aristophanes 36Aristotle 29, 37arriving in Athens 132Art Gallery Hotel 143Artemis 39, 124Artio 82artistic styles 42–3artistic terms 43Aryballos, Agora Museum
16Asini 120Aspasia 35Assyrtiko wine 59Astir Palace Resort 140Athena 35, 38, 39Athenaeum Maria Callas
81, 82Athenaeum Inter-
Continental 141Athenian Callirhoe hotel 141Athenian Treasury, Delphi
114Athens Camping 145Athens City Hall 89, 90Athens Cypria hotel 142Athens Design Centre 91Athens International Youth
Hostel 145Athens Marathon 61Athens Municipal Art
Gallery 79Athens Olympic Complex 62Athens Park Hotel 141Athens Tower 53Athens University 87Athinaikon 92Athinais 81Attica Coast, Around the
122–7map 122nearby islands 126places to eat 127
B
Babis taverna, Arachova 115Bacchae, The (Euripides) 36Bahar 83Bakaliarakia tou Damigou
taverna 57, 75
Page numbers in bold
type refer to main entries.
A
Academy of Arts 87accommodation tips 139Acharnes Olympic Cycling
Venue 63Achinos restaurant,
Piraeus 105, 106Acrocorinth 117Acropolis 6, 8–11, 44, 69, 71Acropolis House 143Acropolis Museum 9Acropolis Select hotel 142Adoration of the Magi (El
Greco) 23Adrian hotel 142Adrianou 53, 82Adromeda Hotel 140Aegina 126Aeschylus 36, 64Aghiorghitiko wine 59Agora 6, 12–15, 45, 79, 81Agora Museum 14–15, 46,
79, 81Agoranomeion, Roman
Agora 20AKS Porto Cheli 146Akti Themistokleous,
Piraeus 103Alekos Metropolitan
restaurant-club 85Altar of Zeus Agorios,
Agora 13Amalia hotel 142Amelie 99An 65, 93Anafiotika 69, 71Ancient Corinth 117Andros 126Angistri 126Antigone (Sophocles) 36Antonios Markos 99Aphrodite 39Apokries 60Apollo 39Apollo Patroos statue 15Arachova 112, 113Archaeological Museum of
Piraeus 103, 105archaeological sites 44–5Archaic art 42Archeon Gefsis restaurant,
Piraeus 106Archimedes’ Screw 41
Balthazar bar-restaurant 100banking 134Barba Yannis 92Barko tis Maritsas taverna,
Galaxidi 113, 115bars see cafés, bars and
clubsBattleship Averoff, Piraeus
105Beau Brummel restaurant 56Bee club 85Benaki Islamic Art
Museum 82
Benaki Museum 7, 22–3,47, 96
Benakis, Antonis 23Benakis, Emmanuel 22Bernier/Eliades Gallery 82Best Value Properties 144Beth Salom Synagogue 82Bettina 99Blazer Suites 144Boemissa 93books on Greece 131Boots & Belts 83Boschetto restaurant 101Bowling Centre Café,
Piraeus 104, 107Brasil Hotel Apartments 144Bratsera 146bus travel 132, 133business information 131,
134Byron, Lord 45, 70Byzantine art 43Byzantine Museum 7,
28–9, 47, 96
C
Café Aeolis 84Café Avissynias 81, 84Café Freddo, Piraeus 105,
107cafés, bars and clubs
Monastiraki, Psiri, Gazi and Thissio 85
Omonia and Exarcheia 93Piraeus 107Plaka, Makrigianni and
Koukai 74Syntagma and Kolonaki
100Calatrava, Santiago 62Calf-Bearer statue 10Callas, Maria 65Calyx Krater 15
149
Club Mediterranee MareNostrum 146
clubs see cafés, bars andclubs
Constitution of Athens(Aristotle) 37
Cookou Food 92Corinth see Ancient CorinthCorinth Canal 117credit cards 135Cubanita club 85Cultural Centre of Athens 90currency 134Cycladic art 42Cyclops 39
D
Daphne’s restaurant 75Decadence (Rock
Alternative) 93Delice Hotel Apartments
144Delphi 112, 113, 114, 138Delphi Museum 114Delta, Penelope 23DeLuxe bar 74democracy 40Demosthenes 35Diasimos ouzeri, Piraeus 106Dimitris Bekas 147Dionisiou Areopagitiou
Walkway 52, 71Dionysus Theatre,
Acropolis 9, 71Dionysus vase 19Dioskouros Guest House
145Diporto 92Dipylon, Kerameikos 26disabled travellers 131,
139Divani Acropolis hotel 140Divani Apollon Palace
hotel 140Divani Caravel hotel 141diving 138Don Kihotis bar, Piraeus
105, 107Dora Stratou Dance
Theatre 31Dourabeis restaurant,
Piraeus 106Draco 35Dragoste club 100dress 136drinks 59driving 130, 132, 133, 137driving licences 130
camping 145Cape Sounio 45, 123, 125,
138car see drivingCaryatids 10, 43Castalian Spring, Delphi 114catapult 41cats 137Cecil Hotel 143Central bar 100central market see
marketsCentre of Hellenic
Tradition 73Charitos 100children 139Children’s Art Museum 72Choregic Monument of
Lysikrates 72Christoforos Kotentos 54churches and monasteries
Agia Ekaterini 49, 72Agia Marina 31Agia Moni 120Agia Theodoron 90Agias Apostoli 49Agios Dimitrios
Loumbardiaris 30Agios Georgios 49Agios Ioannis Theologos
72Agios Nikolaos Pefkakia
90church of the Holy
Sepulchre 71church of the Holy Trinity72Dafni 49, 111, 113Kapnikarea 48Kesariani, Mount
Hymettos 45, 49, 53Mitropoli 48, 70Monastiraki 48, 80Osios Loukas 112, 113Panagia
Chrysospiliotissa, Acropolis 9
Panagia Gorgoepikoos 48, 70
Panagia Grigoroussa 49Top 10 48–9
Cine Psiri 82City of Athens Museum 87City Walls 26Classical art 42Clean Monday 60Cleisthenes 35climate 130
E
East Propylon, RomanAgora 21
Easter 60Eden restaurant 75Edodi restaurant 57, 75Efemero 92Eginitiko Arhontiko 147Elatos Resort, Arachova
113, 146Electra Palace hotel 142Eleftheroudakis 91Elena Votsi 55, 97, 99Eleusis 111Elgin, Lord 9, 11Elliniki Etairia restaurant
75Emblem 73Emboriko taverna,
Arachova 115emergencies 137Ennea Kores, Tzia 127Epidauros 119Epidauros Theatre 60, 65,
119, 138Epigraphical Museum
88Epiphany 60Erectheion, Acropolis 9Erichtonius 38Ermou 53Esperia Palace hotel 142estiatorion 136etiquette 137Euripides 36Evia 111, 126evzones 96Exarcheia see Omonia and
ExarcheiaExarcheion, The 143Exekias 15Exo bar 53
F
Faliron Coastal ZoneOlympic Complex 63
Feast of the Virgin 61ferries 132festivals and events
60–61Fetiye Mosque, Roman
Agora 21Fidelio bar 85Filipou taverna 57Filopappos Hill 7, 30–31,
52, 71Filopappos Monument 30,
53
Ind
ex
150
Ind
ex
Icon of St George 28Icon of the Virgin
(Episkepsis) 29Iguana bar-nightclub,
Piraeus 107Ilari Galaktozaharoplasteio
73Iliad, The (Homer) 36, 37Independence Day 60information sources 131internet cafés 134inventions 40–41Irakleidon 82Island, Varkiza 125, 127islands 126Isthmia 120Istioploikos bar, Piraeus 107Ithaki 127
J
Jackson Hall diner 100Jason Inn 143jewellery 135Jewish community 80Jewish Museum 72Jimmy and the Fish
restaurant, Piraeus 105, 106
John’s Place 145
K
Kafeneion to Naufayio tonAggelon 92
Kallidromiou 52Kallimarmaro Stadium 53,
62, 95Kalogirou 99Kalyviotis 83Kanari Corner restaurant 101Kanaris (Karamanlis)
taverna, Nafplio 119, 121Kanellopoulos Museum 72Kapetanios taverna, Evia
115Kaplanis restaurant,
Arachova 115Kapnikarea 80Karaouli taverna, Arachova
113, 115Karavan 54–5, 91Karavitis taverna 57Kastella, Piraeus 104Katerina 83Katsanidou, Lena 55, 99Kavouras 93Kavouri, Nea Makri 127Kazantzakis, Nikos 37Kekhries 120
health 130helicopter tours 138Hellenic Festival 60–61Hellenic Maritime
Museum, Piraeus 103,105
Hellenikon SportsComplex 63
Hellenistic art 43Herakles 118, 119Herodes Atticus 34Herodes Atticus Theatre,
Acropolis 9, 60, 65Herodion hotel 142hiking 138Hill of the Nymphs 31Hilton, The 141hima wineHippocratic oath 41Histories, The (Herodotus)
37history 34–35History of the
Peloponnesian War (Thucydides) 37
Holiday Suites 144Homer 36Hostel Aphrodite 145hostels 145Hotel Attalos 143Hotel Belle Helene 147Hotel Carolina 143Hotel Dryades 143Hotel Ganimede 147Hotel Grande Bretagne 140Hotel Olympic 147Hotel Parnassos 147Hotel Pentelikon 140Hotel Plaka 142Hotel Tempi 145Hotel Tholos 147hotels
accommodation tips 139budget hotels 143business and high-end
hotels 141cheap sleeps 145long-stay hotels and
apartments 144luxury and boutique
hotels 140mid-range hotels 142
Hydra 126Hytra 84
I
Icon of Archangel Michael28
First National Cemetery ofAthens 53
First Synagogue of Athens82
flea market see marketsflights 132Folk Ceramic Museum 80,
81Folli Follie 97, 99food 58–9, 136Food Company 10148 The Restaurant 56Frame bar-restaurant 100Frantzescos taverna 57Frissiras Museum of
Contemporary European Painting 72
funicular 133
G
Gaia wines 117Galaktopoleion Amaitheia
café 74Galaxidi 113Gate of Athena
Archegetis, Roman Forum 21
Gazi see Monastiraki,Psiri, Gazi and Thissio
Gennadius Library 98Geometric art 42Glyfada 123GNTO services 131Golden Age of Athens 34Goudi Olympic Complex 62Goulandris family 19Grand Resort, Lagonissi
146Greco, El 23Grecotel, Cape Sounio 146Greek dishes 58–9Greek drinks 59Greek Fire 41Greek language courses
134Greek Real Estate Group,
The 144guide books 131Guide to Greece, The
(Pausanias) 37
H
Hadrian, Emperor 32, 34Hadrian’s Arch 32Hadrian’s Library 45, 80, 81Half Note 65Hard Rock Café, Piraeus
107
151
M
magazines 131Maistrali taverna, Loutraki
121Makrigianni see Plaka,
Makrigianni and KoukaiMamacas taverna 57, 84maps 131Marathonas 124, 125Marble House Pension
143Margaro restaurant,
Piraeus 105, 106Margi Hotel 140Maritsas taverna 101markets 83, 135
central market 87, 89flea market, Athens 54,
80, 81, 83flower market 82Friday morning street
market 98Sunday morning flea
market, Piraeus 105Markopoulo Olympic
Equestrian Centre 63Martinos Antiques 83Mavrodaphne wine 59Maximou Mansion 98Meat Market restaurant
92Medea (Euripides) 36Medusa 39Megaro Moussikis 65Melina café 74Mercouri, Melina 35Mesogeia 73metro 133Metropolitan hotel 141mezedopoleia 136Mezedopoleio To Steki,
Aegina 127Middle Stoa, Agora 13Mikra Asia bar 85Mikrolimano, Piraeus 104,
105military dictatorship 35,
88Minoan art 42Minotaur 39Mitropoli see churches
and monasteriesMoita restaurant, Hydra
127Mommy bar-restaurant
100monasteries see churches
and monasteries
Kerameikos 7, 26–7, 45, 79Kesariani 45Kiku restaurant 101King George II (hotel) 140King Othon 147Kitrino Podilato restaurant
84Klepsydra, Agora Museum
14Klepsydra bar-café 74Klimataria taverna 92Kollias restaurant, Piraeus
106Kolonaki see Syntagma
and KolonakiKore with Almond-Shaped
Eyes statue 10Kori 54, 73Korres 55Kotentos, Christoforos 54Kotsolis
Galaktozaharoplasteio73
Koukai see Plaka,Makrigianni and Koukai
Kritios Boy statue 10Kydatheneon café 70, 74Kythnos 126
L
L’Abreuvoir restaurant 101Lake Vouliagmeni 123Lalalounis Museum 72Lalalounis Museum
Jewellery Shop 73Lambropoulos 91Lamda bar 74language 130Last Temptation of Christ
(Kazantzakis) 37Law Court at Delphinion
33Ledra Marriott 141legends 38–9Lema 120Lena Katsanidou – Where
to Wear 55, 99Leonidas, Epidauros 121Life Gallery hotel 140Loumbardiaris café 30Loumidis coffee shop 54, 91Loutraki 120Love Café, Piraeus 107Lyceum of Aristotle 29, 37Lykavittos Festival 61Lykavittos Hill 52, 97Lykavittos Theatre 65Lysistrata (Aristophanes) 36
Monastiraki, Psiri, Gaziand Thissio 78–85map 78nightspots 85places to eat 84shopping 83
money 134Monopoleio Athinon
taverna 57Monument of the
Eponymous Heroes, Agora 13
mopeds 133Mount Parnassos 112Mount Parnitha 111, 138Mount Penteli 53Museum of Cycladic Art 6,
18–19, 47, 96, 97Museum of Greek Folk Art
46, 70Museum of Greek Musical
Instruments 46, 70, 71Museum of the History of
Greek Costume 98Museum Row 94museums and art galleries
Acropolis Museum 9Agora Museum 14–15,
46, 79, 81Archaeological Museum
of Piraeus 103, 105Archaeological Museum, Thebes 112
Athens Municipal Art Gallery 79
Benaki Museum 7, 22–3, 47, 96
Byzantine Museum 7, 28–9, 47, 96
Children’s Art Museum 72
City of Athens Museum 87
Delphi Museum 114Epigraphical Museum 88Folk Ceramic Museum
80, 81Frissiras Museum of
Contemporary European Painting 72
Hellenic Maritime Museum, Piraeus 103
Jewish Museum 72Kanellopoulos Museum
72Lalalounis Museum 72Museum of Cycladic Art
6, 18–19, 47, 96, 97
Ind
ex
152
Ind
ex
Orizontes restaurant 53,97, 101
Orpheus Playing a Lyrestatue 28
Ottoman influence 43ouzeries 136ouzo 59
P
Palaiopoleio Alexandros 83Panathenaic Way 8Pantelis Mountis 73Pap smear test 41Papadopoulos, George 35Papandreou, Andreas 35Paradissos taverna, Evia
115Parafono 93Parthenon, Acropolis 8Parthenon Marbles 10, 11Pasalimani, Piraeus 52,
103passport and visa
information 130Patision 88Patralis taverna, Spetses
127Peace and Friendship
Stadium, Piraeus 62, 105Pediou tou Areos 53, 89Peloponnese, Into the
116–121map 116places to eat 121
Pension Acronafplia 147Peplos Kore statue 10Perahora 120Perikles 8, 35Persians (Aeschylus) 64Pheidippidis 124philosophers 36–7Phivos hostel 145photography 137Pil Poule restaurant 53, 57,
84Piraeus 102–107
bars and cafés 107map 102places to eat 106
Pisina restaurant 106Plaka, Makrigianni and
Koukai 68–75cafés and bars 74map 68restaurants and tavernas
75souvenirs and gifts 73
planning your visit 130
Nichomachean Ethics(Aristotle) 37
North to Delphi 110–115map 110places to eat 115
Numismatic Museum 98Nymphaion, Agora 13
O
O Brettos 73, 74O Kavos taverna, Isthmia
121O Platanos taverna 20, 71,
75O Savas, Nafplio 121Oasis Hotel Apartments
144Oberlander Museum 27Odeion of Agrippa, Agora
12Odos Kallidromiou 90Odyssey, The (Homer) 36,
37, 39Odyssey: A Modern
Sequel (Kazantzakis) 37Oedipus at Colonus
(Sophocles) 36Oedipus Rex (Sophocles)
36, 64Oineas taverna 84Oionos café 74Old National Observatory
31Olympic Canoe and
Rowing Centre 63Olympic Games 40, 62–3,
131Olympic Sailing Centre
63Olympic venues 62–3Olympic Weight-Lifting
Hall 62Omonia and Exarcheia
86–83map 86ouzeries and
mezedopoleia 92rembetatika and rock
clubs 93shopping 91
Omonia Grand hotel 142Oneiro Luxury Apartments
144opening hours 135Optika Arathymnos 99Oracle of Delphi 112Oresteia, The (Aeschylus)
36, 37
Museums (cont.)Museum of Greek Folk
Art 46, 70Museum of Greek
Musical Instruments 46, 70, 71
Museum of the History of Greek Costume 98
National Archaeological Museum 6, 16–17, 46, 89
National Gallery of Art 47National Historical
Museum 98New Acropolis Museum
10–11, 44, 46, 69, 71Numismatic Museum
98Oberlander Museum 27Top 10 46–7War Museum 47, 96
music 64–5, 136Mycenae 118, 119Mycenaean art 42Mykinaiko taverna,
Mycenae 121Mythistorema (Seferis) 37myths see legends
N
NJV Athens Plaza 141Nafplia Palace 146Nafplio 118, 119Nakas Musical
Instruments 91National Archaeological
Museum 6, 16–17, 46, 89
National Bank of Greece89
National Gallery of Art 47National Gardens 52, 95National Historical
Museum 98national holidays 130National Library 90National Opera 65, 90National Parliament
Building 95National Theatre 65, 90Nemea 118Neo-Classical architecture
43Neon café-bar, Piraeus
105, 107New Acropolis Museum
10–11, 44, 46, 69, 71newspapers 131
153
restaurants and tavernas(cont.) Monastiraki, Psiri, Gazi
and Thissio 84North of Athens 115Omonia and Exarcheia
92Piraeus 106Plaka, Makrigianni and
Koukai 75Syntagma and Kolonaki
101Top 10 56–7
retsina 59rites of Dionysus 64Rock ‘n’ Roll bar-restaurant
100Rockwave 61Rodon-Live Rock 65, 93Roman Agora, Delphi 114Roman Baths, Temple of
Olympian Zeus 33Roman Forum 7, 20–21,
44, 69, 71
S
Sacred Gate, Kerameikos26
Sacred Way, Delphi 114Sacred Way, Kerameikos
26sailing 138St George Lycabettus
hotel 140St Paul 12, 13, 117saints’ days 61Salamina 126sales 135sales tax 135Sanctuary of Amphairos
125Sanctuary of Artemis,
Vavrona 124, 125Sanctuary of Athena
Pronaia, Delphi 113, 114Sanctuary of the Earth
Goddess, Delphi 114Sanctuary of the
Tritopatores, Kerameikos 27
Saronic Islands 138Savatiano wine 59Schinias 124Schliemann, Heinrich 98,
118Scholiarhio ouzeri 75Sea Satin taverna-bar 100security 130
Plateia Dexameni 98Plateia Exarcheia 88, 89Plateia Filomousou 70Plateia Iroon 82Plateia Klafthmonos 87Plateia Kolonaki 97, 98Plateia Monastiraki 80Plateia Omonia 88Plateia Syntagma 94, 97Plato 37Plous Podilato restaurant,
Piraeus 106Pnyx, The 31Poetics (Aristotle) 37Polytechnic 88, 89Pompeiion, Kerameikos
26Poros 126Poseidon 38, 39Poseidon Resort 146post 134Prasini 97, 99President Hotel 144Presidential Palace 98prices 130Prometheus Unbound
(Aeschylus) 36Propylaia, Acropolis 8Prytaneio restaurant 101Psaras taverna 57, 75psarotaverna 136Psiri see Monastiraki,
Psiri, Gazi and Thissiopsistaria 136Pythagoras’s Theorem 40
R
radio 131Rafina 124Ramnous 125Ratka restaurant 101Rebecca Camhi Gallery
90Red restaurant 57, 81Relief of the Mourning
Athena 10rembetika 64, 86, 93Rembetiki Istoria 93reproductions 135Republic (Plato) 37Restaurant 24 Hours,
Corinth 121restaurants and tavernas
136Around the Attica Coast
127Into the Peloponnese
121
Seferis, George 37Semiramis 140shadow-puppet theatre 64Shepherd Carrying a Lamb
statue 28shopping tips 135shops
Monastiraki, Psiri, Gazi and Thissio 83
Omonia and Exarcheia 91
Plaka, Makrigianni and Koukai 73
Syntagma and Kolonaki 99
Top 10 54–5Sifnian Treasury, Delphi
114signs 130Sikia 120single travellers 139Sirens 39Sirines 73Skoufaki café-bar 100Skoufias taverna 57Skoura wines 120snacks 136Socrates 12, 30, 36–7Sofitel 141Solon 35Sophocles 36, 64Soul restaurant 85Sound and Light Show 31souvenirs 135Spetses 126Spilia taverna, Argolida 121Spiliopoulos 83Spirit Bar 85Split bar 85Spondi restaurant 56Stathmos 93Stavros Melissinos 81, 83Stele of Hegeso,
Kerameikos 27Sterea Ellada 110Stoa Athanaton 65, 89, 93Stoa of Attalos, Agora 13,
15Stoa Basileios, Agora 12Stoa tou Vivliou 91Strefi Hill 52, 53, 90Strofi taverna 57, 75Student and Travellers’ Inn
145Study Centre for the Art of
Puppet Theatre 72Symposio restaurant 56–7,
75
Ind
ex
154
Ind
ex
Vassilenas restaurant,Piraeus 106
Vassilis taverna, Mati 127Vavrona 124Venue club 85venues
entertainment 65Olympic 62–3rembetatika and rock
clubs 93Vespasianae, Roman
Forum 20Village Flokati 73visas 130Vlassis taverna 57Votsi, Elena 55, 97, 99Vouliagmeni 123Vyni bar 74
W
walks in Athens 52–3, 133War of Independence 34War Museum 47, 96Warriors’ Tombs,
Kerameikos 27websites 131Wild Thing café-bar,
Piraeus 107wines 59, 117, 120World War II 34writers 36–7
X
Xenia 146Xypolitos taverna, Loutsa
125, 127
Y
Yacht Club of Greece,Piraeus 104
Yeshop 99Yiantes taverna 89, 92Youth Hostel No. 5
Pangrati 145
Z
Zappeion 98Zeus 38, 39Ziller, Ernst 79, 96Zolotas 91Zorba the Greek
(Kazantzakis) 37Zorba’s Hotel 145Zoumboulakis Gallery 55,
91
Themistoklean Gates,Temple of Olympian
Zeus 32Themistokles 26, 32, 35,
103Theodorakis, Mikis 65Theotokopoulos,
Domenikos see Greco, ElTheoxenia Palace hotel
141Thermae Sylla Grand Hotel
146Theseus 35, 39, 125Thespis 64Thirio bar 85Thissio see Monastiraki,
Psiri, Gazi and ThissioTholos, Agora 12tipping 136Tiryns 118Titania hotel 142To Kouti taverna 12To Ouzadiko taverna 101To Tristato café 70, 74To Varoulko restaurant,
Piraeus 56, 84Tomb of Dexileos,
Kerameikos 27Tomb of the Unknown
Soldier 98Tony’s Hotel 144Topiki Gefsi taverna,
Delphi 115tourist information 131tours 138touts 137Tower of the Winds 7, 20,
44, 69, 71trains 132trams 133triremes 40trolleybuses 133tsipouro 59Tsitouras Collection 54, 91TV 131Tzia 126
U
Up Down bar, Piraeus 107
V
Valerian Wall, Temple ofOlympian Zeus 33
Vangelis 65Vardis restaurant 56
Symposium Kylix 19Syntagma and Kolonaki
94–101chic boutiques 99hot nightspots 100map 94places to eat and drink
101Syntagma metro station
44, 95Syrtaki taverna, Sounio
125, 127
T
Taverna O Theodorakis,Corinth 121
Taverna Paleo Archontiko,Nafplio 121
Taverna Porto, Galaxidi 115Taverna Rozalia 92Taverna Vakhos, Delphi
113, 115tavernas see restaurants
and tavernasTaximi 93taxis 133, 137Technopolis 79telephones 134Temple of Apollo, Corinth
117Temple of Apollo, Delphi
113, 114Temple of Apollo
Delphinios and Artemis Delphinia 33
Temple of Athena Nike,Acropolis 8
Temple of Hephaestus,Agora 12
Temple of Kronos andRhea 33
Temple of Olympian Zeus7, 32–33, 44, 71
Temple of Poseidon, CapeSounio 45, 123, 125
Temple of ZeusPanhellenios 33
Thanissis taverna 84theatre 40, 64–5Theatre of Delphi 114Theatre of Zea, Piraeus
103Theban Tragedies, The
(Sophocles) 37Thebes 112
155
bars, clubs, shops, galleries and other sightsfor their assistance and kind permission tophotograph at their establishments.
Placement Key: t = top; tl = top left; tr =top right; tc = top centre; c = centre; cl + center left; cr = center right; b =bottom; bl = bottom left; d = detail.
AKG, LONDON: 34tl/tr, 35l, 35r, 36tl(d),37t(d), 38tc; Cameraphoto 38tl: John Hios36c, 37c(d); Erich Lessing 36b, 36tc,36tr(d), 38b, 38tr, 39t(d)/c/b(d), 61.
BENAKI MUSEUM: M Skiadaresis 2tc,22c/b, 23t/cl/cr/b; BERNARD TSCHUMIARCHITECTS: 11c/b, 46tl; BRASIL HOTELAPARTMENTS:144tl; BRIDGEMAN ARTLIBRARY: Acropolis Museum, Athens 40tl;Fitzwilliam Musuem, University ofCambridge, UK 40tr; Musee MunicipalAntoine Vivenel, Compiegne, France 40c;National Archaeological Museum, Athens,Greece 64c; BYZANTINE MUSEUM: 29tl,29tr.
CALLIRHOE HOTEL: 141tl; Courtesy of theCITY OF ATHENS MUSEUM: 87b;CORBIS: Hulton Deutsch Collection 64tr;Gianni Dagli Orti 16c, 41t.
Courtesy of the HELLENIC FESTIVAL SA:60b(d).
Courtesy of the JEWISH MUSEUM OFGREECE: 72tr.
Courtesy of KAZANTAKIS PUBLICATIONS:37b(d); KOBAL COLLECTION: 20thCentury Fox 65bl.
METROPOLITAN HOTEL: 141tr.
NICHOLAS P GOULANDRIS FOUNDATIONMUSEUM OF CYCLADIC AND ANCIENTGREEK ART: 18–9 all; 43c.
ORGANISING COMMITTEE FOR THEOLYMPIC GAMES ATHENS 2004: 62tc/62tr.
PHOTOSTOCK, Athens: 15c, 29c, 29t, 60c,64tl.
ROBERTHARDING.COM: Tony Gervis 60tr.
VENUE BAR: 85tl.
The AuthorsCoral Davenport and Jane Foster are free-lance travel and features writers, based inAthens. Additional text on shopping andentertainment was provided by a fellowAthens-based writer, Cordelia Madden.
Produced by BLUE ISLAND PUBLISHING,LONDON www.blueisland.co.uk
Editorial DirectorRosalyn Thiro
Art DirectorStephen Bere
Associate EditorMichael Ellis
Picture ResearchEllen Root
Proofread and indexed byJane Simmonds
Main PhotographerNigel Hicks
Additional Photography:Joe Cornish, Rupert Horrox, RobReichenfeld, Clive Streeter, Peter Wilson
CartographyJohn Plumer
AT DORLING KINDERSLEY
Series Publisher Douglas Amrine
Publishing ManagerFay Franklin, Kate Poole
Senior Art EditorMarisa Renzullo
Cartographic EditorCasper Morris
DTPJason Little, Conrad van Dyk
ProductionSarah Dodd
PHOTOGRAPHY PERMISSIONS: DorlingKindersley would like to thank all thechurches, museums, hotels, restaurants,
Ackn
ow
ledgem
ents
Acknowledgements
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156
In an Emergency
Help! Voítheia! vo-ee-theea!
Stop! Stamatíste! sta-ma-tee-steh!
Call a doctor! Fonáxte éna fo-nak-stehgiatró! e-na ya-tro!
Call an Kaléste to ka-le-steh to as-ambulance/ asthenofóro/ the-no-fo-ro/
tin teen a-sti-no-thethe police/ astynomía/tin mia/teen pee-ro-fire brigade! pyrosvestikí! zve-stee-kee!
Where is the Poú eínai to poo ee-ne to nearest plisiéstero plee-see-e-ste-telephone/ tiléfono/ ro tee-le-pho-no/hospital/ nosokomeío/ no-so-ko-mee-o/pharmacy? farmakeío? far-ma-kee-o?
Communication Essentials
Yes Nai neh
No Ochi o-chee
Please Parakaló pa-ra-ka-lo
Thank you Efcharistó ef-cha-ree-sto
You are welcome Parakaló pa-ra-ka-lo
OK/alright Entáxei en-dak-zee
Excuse me Me synchoreíte me seen-cho-ree-teh
Hello Geiá sas yeea sas
Goodbye Antío an-dee-o
Good morning Kaliméra ka-lee-me-ra
Good night Kalin´ychta ka-lee-neech-ta
Morning Proí pro-ee
Afternoon Apógevma a-po-yev-ma
Evening Vrádi vrath-i
This morning Símera to proí see-me-ra topro-ee
Yesterday Chthés chthes
Today Símera see-me-ra
Tomorrow Avrio av-ree-o
Here Edó ed-o
There Ekeí e-kee
What? Tí? tee?
Why? Giatí? ya-tee?
Where? Poú? poo?
How? Pós? pos?
Wait! Perímene! pe-ree-me-neh!
How are you? Tí káneis? tee ka-nees?
Very well, Poly kalá, po-lee ka-la, thank you. efcharistó. ef-cha-ree-sto.
How do you do? Pós eíste? pos ees-te?
Pleased to Chaíro pol´y. che-ro po-lee.meet you.
What is your Pós légeste? pos le-ye-ste?name?
Where is/are...? Poú eínai…? poo ee-ne…?
How far is it to...? Póso apéchei...? po-so a-pe-chee?
How do I get to..? Pós mporó pos bo-ro-na na páo...? pa-o...?
Do you speak Miláte mee-la-teEnglish? Angliká? an-glee-ka?
I understand. Katalavaíno. ka-ta-la-ve-no.
I don’t Den then ka-ta-understand. katalavaíno. la-ve-no.
Could you Miláte lígo pio mee-la-te lee-speak slowly? argá parakaló? go pyo ar-ga
pa-ra-ka-lo?
I’m sorry. Me synchoreíte. me seen-cho-ree teh.
Does anyone Echei kanénas e-chee ka-ne-have a key? kleidí? nas klee-dee?
Useful Words
big Megálo me-ga-lo
small Mikró mi-kro
hot Zestó zes-to
cold Kr´yo kree-o
good Kaló ka-lo
bad Kakó ka-ko
enough Arketá ar-ke-ta
well Kalá ka-la
open Anoichtá a-neech-ta
closed Kleistá klee-sta
left Aristerá a-ree-ste-ra
right Dexiá dek-see-a
straight on Eftheía ef-thee-a
between Anámesa / a-na-me-sa/Metax´y me-tak-see
on the corner of.. Sti gonía tou... stee go-nee-a too
near Kontá kon-da
far Makriá ma-kree-a
up Epáno e-pa-no
down Káto ka-to
early Norís no-rees
late Argá ar-ga
entrance I eísodos ee ee-so-thos
exit I éxodos ee e-kso-dos
toilet Oi toualétes / ee-too-a-le-tesoccupied/ Kateiliméni ka-tee-lee-engaged me-nee
Phrase Book
Note: words in bold (centre columns) are transliterated according to the system usedby the Greek Government. However, this system is not used consistently throughoutGreece, and visitors will encounter many variants on road signs, menus etc.
157
unoccupied Eléftheri e-lef-the-ree
free/no charge Doreán tho-re-an
in/out Mésa/ Exo me-sa/ek-so
Making a Telephone Call
Where is the Poú vrísketai poo vrees-ke-nearest public o plisiésteros teh o plee-see-telephone? tilefonikós e-ste-ros tee-
thálamos? le-fo-ni-kos tha-la-mos?
I would like to Tha íthela na tha ee-the-la naplace a káno éna ka-no e-na long-distance yperastikó ee-pe-ra-sti-kocall. tilefónima. tee-le-fo-nee-ma.
I would like Tha íthela na tha ee-the-la to reverse chreóso to na chre-o-so tothe charges. tilefónima tee-le-fo-nee-ma
ston paralípti. ston pa-ra-lep-tee.
I will try Tha tha ksa-na-again later. xanatilefoníso tee-le-fo-ni-so
argótera. ar-go-te-ra.
Can I leave Mporeíte bo-ree-te na a message? na tou afísete too a-fee-se-teh
éna mínyma? e-na mee-nee-ma?
Could you Miláte mee-la-teh speak up a dynatótera, dee-na-to-telittle please? parakaló? -ra, pa-ra-ka-lo?
Hold on. Periménete. pe-ri-me-ne-teh.
local call Topikó to-pi-ko tee-le-tilefónima fo-nee-ma
OTE telephone O OTE / To o O-TE / To tee-office tilefoneío le-fo-nee-o
phone box/kiosk O tilefonikós o tee-le-fo-ni-kos thálamos tha-la-mos
phone card I tilekárta ee tee-le-kar-ta
Shopping
How much Póso kánei? po-so ka-nee?does this cost?
I would like..... Tha íthela... tha ee-the-la...
Do you have.....? Echete...? e-che-teh…?
I am just looking. Aplós koitáo. a-plos kee-ta-o.
Do you take travellers’ the-ches-tehcredit cards/ cheques pee-sto-tee-kes travellers’ Décheste kar-tes/ cheques? pistotikés travellers’
kártes/ cheques?travellers’ cheques?
What time do Póte anoígete/ po-teh a-nee-ye-you open/close? kleínete? teh/ klee-ne-teh?
Can you ship Mporeíte na to bo-ree-teh na tothis overseas? steílete sto stee-le-teh sto
exoterikó? e-xo-te-ree ko?
This one. Aftó edó. af-to e-do.
That one. Ekeíno. e-kee-no.
expensive Akrivó a-kree-vo
cheap Fthinó fthee-no
size To mégethos to me-ge-thos
white Lefkó lef-ko
black Mávro mav-ro
red Kókkino ko-kee-no
yellow Kítrino kee-tree-no
green Prásino pra-see-no
blue Mple bleh
Types of Shop
antique shop Magazí me ma-ga-zee me antíkes an-dee-kes
bakery O foúrnos o foor-nos
bank I trápeza ee tra-pe-za
bazaar To pazári to pa-za-ree
bookshop To vivliopoleío to vee-vlee-o-po-lee-o
butcher To kreopoleío to kre-o-po-lee-o
cake shop To zacharo- to za-cha-ro-pla-plasteío stee-o
cheese shop Magazí me ma-ga-zee me allantiká a-lan-dee-ka
department store Polykatástima Po-lee-ka-ta-stee-ma
fishmarket To to eech-thee-o-ichthyopoleío/ po-lee-o psarádiko /psa-rá-dee-ko
greengrocer To manáviko to ma-na-vee-ko
hairdresser To kommotírio to ko-mo-tee-ree-o
kiosk To períptero to pe-reep-te-ro
leather shop Magazí me ma-ga-zee me dermátina eídi ther-ma-tee-na
ee-thee
street market I laïkí agorá ee la-ee-keea-go-ra
newsagent O O e-fee-me-efimeridopólis ree-tho-po-lees
pharmacy To farmakeío to far-ma-kee-o
post office To to ta-chee-tachydromeío thro-mee-o
shoe shop Katástima y ka-ta-stee-ma podimáton ee-po-dee-
ma-ton
souvenir shop Magazí me ma-ga-zee“souvenir” meh “souvenir”
supermarket “Supermarket” “Supermarket” / Yperagorá / ee-per-a-go-ra
Bold letters in the pronunciation guides (right columns) indicate the stressed syllable.
158
tobacconist Eídi kapnistoú Ee-thee kap-nees
travel agent To taxeidiotikó to tak-see-thy-o-grafeío tee-ko gra-fee-o
Sightseeing
tourist O EOT o E-OTinformation
tourist police I touristikí ee too-rees-tee-astynomía kee a-stee-no-
mee-a
archaeological archaiologikós ar-che-o-lo-yee-kos
art gallery I gkalerí ee ga-le-ree
beach I paralía ee pa-ra-lee-a
Byzantine vyzantinós vee-zan-dee-nos
castle To kástro to ka-stro
cathedral I mitrópoli ee mee-tro-po-lee
cave To spílaio to spee-le-o
church I ekklisía ee e-klee-see-a
folk art laïkí téchni la-ee-kee tech-nee
fountain To syntriváni to seen-dree-va-nee
hill O lófos o lo-fos
historical istorikós ee-sto-ree-kos
island To nisí to nee-see
lake I límni ee leem-nee
library I vivliothíki ee veev-lee-o-thee-kee
mansion I épavlis ee e-pav-lees
monastery moní mo-ni
mountain To vounó to voo-no
municipal dimotikós thee-mo-tee-kos
museum To mouseío to moo-see-o
national ethnikós eth-nee-kos
park To párko to par-ko
garden O kípos o kee-pos
gorge To farángi to fa-ran-gee
grave of.... O táfos tou... o ta-fos too
river To potámi to po-ta-mee
road O drómos o thro-mos
saint ágios/ágioi/ a-yee-os/a-yee-agía/agíes ee/a-yee-a/
a-yee-es
spring I pigí ee pee-yee
square I plateía ee pla-tee-a
stadium To stádio to sta-thee-o
statue To ágalma to a-gal-ma
theatre To théatro to the-a-tro
town hall To dimarcheío to thee-mar-chee-
o
closed on kleistó tis klee-sto
public holidays argíes tees aryee-es
Transport
When does the Póte févgei po-teh fev-
.... leave? to...? yee to...?
Where is the Poú eínai i poo ee-neh ee
bus stop? stási tou sta-see too le-o-
leoforeíou? fo-ree-oo...?
Is there a Ypárchei ee-par-chee
bus to..? leoforeío gia...? le-o-fo-
ree-o yia...?
ticket office Ekdotíria Ek-tho-tee-reea
eisitiríon ee-see-tee-ree-on
return ticket Eisitírio me ee-see-tee-ree-o
epistrofí meh e-pee-
stro-fee
single journey Apló eisitírio a-plo ee-see-tee-
reeo
bus station O stathmós o stath-mos
leoforeíon leo-fo-ree-on
bus ticket Eisitírio ee-see-tee-ree-o
leoforeíou leo-fo-ree-oo
trolley bus To trólley to tro-le-ee
port To limán to lee-ma-nee
train/metro To tréno to tre-no
railway station sidirodromikós see-thee-ro-
stathmós thro-mee-kos
stath-mos
moped To to mo-to-po-
motopodílato/ thee-la-to/to
To michanáki mee-cha-na-kee
bicycle To podílato to po-thee-la-to
taxi To taxí to tak-see
airport To aerodrómio to a-e-ro-thro-
mee-o
ferry To “ferry-boat” to fe-ree-bot
hydrofoil To delfíni / to del-fee-nee /
To ydroptérygo To ee-throp-te-
ree-go
catamaran To katamarán to catamaran
for hire Enoikiázontai e-nee-kya-zon-
deh
Note: words in bold (centre columns) are transliterated according to the system usedby the Greek Government. However, this system is not used consistently throughoutGreece, and visitors will encounter many variants on road signs, menus etc.
159
Staying in a Hotel
Do you have Echete e-che-teh tho-a vacant room? domátia? ma-tee-a?
I have a Echo kánei e-cho ka-nee reservation. krátisi. kra-tee-see.
double room Díklino me thee-klee-no with double bed dipló kreváti meh thee-plo
kre-va-tee
twin room Díklino me thee-klee-no dipló kreváti meh mo-na
kre-vat-ya
single room Monóklino mo-no-klee-no
room with a Domátio me tho-ma-tee-obath mpánio meh ban-yo
shower To douz To dooz
porter O portiéris o por-tye-rees
key To kleidí to klee-dee
room with a sea Domátio me tho-ma-tee-o view/balcony théa sti meh the-a stee
thálassa/ tha-la-sa/bal- mpalkóni ko-nee
Does the To proïnó to pro-ee-noprice include symperi- seem-be-ree-lam-breakfast? lamvánetai va-ne-teh steen
stin timí? tee-mee?
Eating Out
Have you Echete trapézi? e-che-te got a table? tra-pe-zee?
I want to Thélo na the-lo na kra-reserve a table. kratíso éna tee-so e-na tra-
trapézi. pe-zee.
The bill, please. Ton ton lo-gar-yas-logariazmó mo pa-ra-ka-lo.parakaló.
I am a Eímai ee-meh vegetarian. chortofágos. chor-to-fa-gos.
What is Tí frésko tee fres-ko fresh today? échete símera? e-che-teh see-
me-ra?
waiter/waitress K´yrie/Garson”/ Kee-ree-eh/Kyría Gar-son/
Kee-ree-a
menu O katálogos o ka-ta-lo-gos
cover charge To “couvert” to koo-ver
wine list O katálogos o ka-ta-lo-gos me ta oinopne- meh ta ee-no-vmatódi pnev-ma-to-
thee
glass To potíri to po-tee-ree
bottle To mpoukáli to bou-ka-lee
knife To machaíri to ma-che-ree
fork To piroúni to pee-roo-nee
spoon To koutáli to koo-ta-lee
breakfast To proïnó to pro-ee-no
lunch To to me-see-mesimerianó mer-ya-no
dinner To deípno to theep-no
main course To kyríos to kee-ree-os gévma yev-ma
starter/first course Ta orektiká ta o-rek-tee-ka
dessert To glykó to ylee-ko
dish of the day To piáto tis i to pya-to tees méras ee-me-ras
bar To “bar” To bar
taverna I tavérna ee ta-ver-na
café To kafeneío to ka-fe-nee-o
fish taverna I psarotavérna ee psa-ro-ta-ver-na
grill house I psistariá ee psee-sta-rya
wine shop To oinopoleío to ee-no-po-lee-o
dairy shop To galakto- to ga-lak-to-poleío po-lee-o
restaurant To estiatório to e-stee-a-to-ree-o
ouzeri To ouzerí to oo-ze-ree
meze shop To To me-ze-mezedopoleío do-po-lee-o
take away kebabs To souvlatzídiko To soo-vlat-zee-dee-ko
rare Eláchista e-lach-ees-ta psiméno psee-me-no
medium Métria met-ree-psiméno a psee-me-no
well done Kalopsiméno ka-lo-psee-me-no
Basic Food and Drink
coffee O Kafés o ka-fes
with milk me gála me ga-la
black coffee skétos ske-toswithout sugar chorís záchari cho-rees
za-cha-ree
medium sweet métrios me-tree-os
very sweet glyk´ys glee-kees
tea tsái tsa-ee
hot chocolate zestí sokoláta ze-steeso-ko-la-ta
wine krasí kra-see
red kókkino ko-kee-no
white lefkó lef-ko
rosé rozé ro-ze
raki To rakí to ra-kee
ouzo To oúzo to oo-zo
Bold letters in the pronunciation guides (right columns) indicate the stressed syllable.
160
retsina I retsína ee ret-see-na
water To neró to ne-ro
octopus To chtapódi to chta-po-dee
fish To psári to psa-ree
cheese To tyrí to tee-ree
halloumi To chaloúmi to cha-loo-mee
feta I féta ee fe-ta
bread To psomí to pso-mee
bean soup I fasoláda ee fa-so-la-da
houmous To houmous to choo-moos
halva O chalvás o chal-vas
meat kebabs O g´yros o yee-ros
Turkish delight To loukoúmi to loo-koo-mee
baklava O mpaklavás o bak-la-vas
klephtiko To kléftiko to klef-tee-ko
Numbers
1 éna e-na
2 d´yo thee-o
3 tría tree-a
4 téssera te-se-ra
5 pénte pen-deh
6 éxi ek-si
7 eptá ep-ta
8 ochtó och-to
9 ennéa e-ne-a
10 déka the-ka
11 énteka en-de-ka
12 dódeka tho-the-ka
13 dekatría de-ka-tree-a
14 dekatéssera the-ka-tes-se-ra
15 dekapénte the-ka-pen-de
16 dekaéxi the-ka-ek-si
17 dekaeptá the-ka-ep-ta
18 dekaochtó the-ka-och-to
19 dekaennéa the-ka-e-ne-a
20 eíkosi ee-ko-see
21 eikosiéna ee-ko-see-e-na
30 triánta tree-an-da
40 saránta sa-ran-da
50 penínta pe-neen-da
60 exínta ek-seen-da
70 evdomínta ev-tho-meen-da
80 ogdónta og-thon-da
90 enenínta e-ne-neen-da
100 ekató e-ka-to
200 diakósia thya-kos-ya
1,000 chília cheel-ya
2,000 d´yo chiliádes thee-o cheel-ya-thes
1,000,000 éna e-na e-ka-to-ekatomm´yrio mee-ree-o
one minute éna leptó e-na lep-to
one hour mía óra mee-a o-ra
half an hour misí óra mee-see o-ra
quarter of éna tétarto e-na te-tar-toan hour
half past one mía kai misí mee-a keh mee-see
quarter past one mía kai tétarto mee-a keh te-tar-to
ten past one mía kai déka mee-a keh the-ka
quarter to two d´yo pará thee-o tétarto pa-ra te-tar-to
ten to two d´yo pará déka thee-o pa-ra the-ka
a day mía méra mee-a me-ra
a week mía evdomáda mee-a ev-tho-ma-tha
a month énas mínas e-nas mee-nas
a year énas chrónos e-nas chro-nos
Monday Deftéra thef-te-ra
Tuesday Tríti tree-tee
Wednesday Tetárti te-tar-tee
Thursday Pémpti pemp-tee
Friday Paraskeví pa-ras-ke-vee
Saturday Sávvato sa-va-to
Sunday Kyriakí keer-ee-a-kee
January Ianouários ee-a-noo-a-ree-os
February Fevrouários fev-roo-a-ree-os
March Mártios mar-tee-os
April Aprílios a-pree-lee-os
May Máios ma-ee-os
June Ioúnios ee-oo-nee-os
July Ioúlios ee-oo-lee-os
August Avgoustos av-goo-stos
September Septémvrios sep-tem-vree-os
October Októvrios ok-to-vree-os
November Noémvrios no-em-vree-os
December Dekémvrios the-kem-vree-os
Note: words in bold (centre columns) are transliterated according to the system usedby the Greek Government. However, this system is not used consistently throughoutGreece, and visitors will encounter many variants on road signs, menus etc.
v
v
v
v
v
v
v
v
n
q
q
q
q
v
v
n
Panepistímio
Akropoli
Monastiraki
P
Psir i
S y
M o n ast i r a k i
A e r i d e s
A n a f i o t i k a
P l a k a
M a k r i g i a n n i
PlateiaKotzia
PlateiaKlafthmonos
PLATEIALYSIKRATOUS
PLATEIAFILOMOUSOU
PLATEIAMITROPOLEOS
PLATEIAMONASTIRAKI
PLATEIAAG. IR INIS
PLATEIAKARITSI
PLATEIAAVISSYNIAS
PLATEIAIROON
PLATEIATHEATROU
P L A T E I AT S O K R I
AR
I S T OF A
NO
US
K A R A I SK
AK
I
GE
RA
NI O
U E V P O L I D O S
K R A T I N O U
A R M O D I O U
ARISTOGEITONOS
AIS
CH
YL
OU
A G I OU D
I MI T
R I OU
MI A
OU
L I KA
RO
RI
PO
LY
KL
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M I L
A R S A K IS A N T A R O Z A
VO
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PAPARRIGOPOULOU
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MV
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L E K K A
TH
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MA
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A I S OP O
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P I T T AK
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IDOS
P A L L A DO S
K A I R I
G S T A V R O U
STOA NIKOLOUDI
R I G A F E R A I O U
KLE
ISTH
ENO
US
V O R E O U
SO
KR
AT
OU
S
P R A X I T E L O U S
AR
EO
S
A D R I A N O U
A D R I A N O U
AD
RIA
NO
U
POIKIL I S
DEXIPPOU
T H O R I A S
RAGKAVA
F L E S S A
SK
OU
FO
U
P E T A
T H E S P I D O S
TH
RA
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LL
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T R I POD
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T H O L O U
FR
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L EMPESI
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P E T R A K I
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VOGLI
HILL
TZ
IR
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ST
RA
TO
NO
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K E K R O
P O S
N A V A R C H O U N I K O D I M O U
DIO
SK
OU
DO
N
I F A I S T O U
PS Y
MITRO
MA
RA
KALAISCHROU
A T H A N A S I O U D I A K O U
CHRISTOU LADA
E D O U A R D O U
STO
VYZANT
T
PATRIARCHOU GRIG
STOA PEZMANTZOGLOU
VAKCHOU
LYSIKRATOUS
AISCHINOU
CHAIREFONTOS
FARMAKI
K Y D A T H I N A I O N
CHRYSOS–
TOMOU
PITT
AKOU
SKOURA
D A I D A L O U
PSYL L
SKO
PPA
DIO
MEI
AS
PATR
OO
U
PEN
TELI
S
FOKIO
NO
S
I P I T O U
THO
UK
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OU
ANGELIKIS CHATZIMICHALI
AG
.FILO
THE IS
P R Y T A N E I O U
KAPN
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KALOGRIONI
DIOGENOUSL Y S S I O U
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R I AN
OU
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MN
I SI K
L EO
US
KLADOU
TAXI
ARCH
ON
PAN
OS
PA
NO
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M ITROOU
KLEP
SYD
RAS
MO
USA
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KIRY
KEIO
U
KORN
ARO
US TOA EMPORIOU
CH
AVR
IOU
KA
LAM
I OTO
U
LEO
CH
ARO
US
PALAION PATRON
GERMANOUCHRISOSPILIOTISSIS
D R A G A T S A N I OU
THEATROU
AGIOS THEKLAS
KAKOURGO DIKEIOU
AVRA
MIO
TOU
PR OTOGENOUS
MELANTHIOU
KALAMIDAVLAC H AVA
V Y S S I S
AGATHONOS
VASILIKIS
LIMPONA
A G I A S E I R I N I S
MYKO NOS
T A
KI
STRE
IT
STOA SOFOKLI
VENIZELOU
STO
AAT
HINON
T H R A S Y V O U L O U
MONIS ASTERIOU
TSA
NGARI
X
AFRODITIS
E P I M E N I D O U
GERONTA
KO
DR O
U
PARN
ASSOU
EVANGELI STRIASS A R R I
SOK
RAT
OU
S
S O F O K L E O U S
S O F O K L E O U S
E V R I P I D O U
E V R I P I D O U
AI
OL
OU
AI
OL
OU
AI
OL
OU
AI
OL
OU
A G I O I T H E O D O R O I
A T H I N A I D O S
F E I DI O
U
K O L O K O T R O N I
P E R I K L E O U S
O M I R O U
AR
I ST
EI D
OU
P E S M A N T Z O G L O U
M A V R O M
PA N D R O S O U
M I T R O P O L E O S
C H A T Z I C H R I S T O U
A P O L L O N O S
VO
UL
I S
MA
KR
I GI A
NN
I
VOURVACHI
FI L
EL
LI N
ON
NI K
I S
VA S I L
O T
AT H A N A S I O U D I A K O U
M I T R O P O L E O S
C H A R I L A O UT R I K O U P I
NI K
I S
E R M O U
E R M O U
ME
NA
ND
RO
U
AT
HI
NA
S
AT
HI
NA
S
AK
AD
I MI A
SP
AN
PA
NE
PI S
TI M
I OU
ST
AD
I OU
ST
AD
I OU
D I O N Y S I O U A R E O P A G I T O U
KA
RE
A
K O R A I
LEOFOROS ANDREA S
YNGROU
LE
OF
OR
OS
L E O F
Museum ofGreek Folk Art
FrissirasMuseum
Children's ArtMusuem
SoLyk
Hadrian's Arch
Mitrópoli
PanagiaGorgoepikoos
KanellopoulosMuseum
Monument ofLysikrates Agia
Ekaterini
KyriazopoúlosFolk CeramicMuseum
FlowerMarket
Flea Market
Hadrian'sLibrary
PanagiaGrigoroussa
AgiasApostoli
AgoraMuseum
Stoa ofAttalos
Museum of GreekPopular MusicalInstruments
City of AthensMuseum
AthensUniversity
CityHall
CentralMarket
Rebecca CamhiGallery
Artio
Athens StockExchange
AgiiTheodori
NationalLibrary
NationalHistoricalMuseum
NationalOpera
LalaounisMuseum
KapnikareaMonastiraki
JewishMuseum
AcropolisMuseum
PanagiaChrysospiliotissa
AgiosGeorgios
Study Centrefor the Art of
Puppet Theatre
Agios IoannisTheologos
Theatre ofDionysus
Theatre ofHerodes Atticus
Propylaia
Temple ofAthena Nike
Parthenon
Erechtheion
Tower ofthe Winds
RomanForum
Temple ofOlympian Zeus
Agora
Acropolis
New AcropolisMuseum
KEY
Top 10 sight
Other sight
Metro station
Trolleybus stop
Funicular
Tourist information
Railway line
Pedestrian street
Central Athens
250250 0 metresyards
v
v
v
vv
v
vv
v
v
v
v
qSyntagma
P e f k a k i a
D e x a m e n i
K o l o n a k i
n ta g m a
M e t s
S ta d i o
National
Gardens
ZappeionGardens
Lofos
Ardittou
Ly k a v i t t o s
H i l l
P L A T E I AV A R N A V A
P L A T E I AP L A S T I R A
PLATEIAKOLONAKI
PLATEIADEXAMENI
PLATEIALYKAVITTOU
P L A T E I AS K O U Z E
A G I O US P Y R I D O N O SP L A T E I A
S T A D I O U
P L A T E I A T R O U M A N
SOL O
NO
S
S I N A
V I S S A R I ON
OS
VA L A R I TOU
E VE L P I D
OS R
OG
KA
KO
U
CH
E R S ON
OS
S T R A T I OT I K O
U S Y N
DE SM
OU
G I AN N I
ST A T H A
S I N A
FO
KI L
I DO
UA
NA
GN
OS T O
P OU
L OU
D I M O K R I T O U
V O U K O U R E S T I O U
I R A K L E I T O U
T S AK
AL O
F
AL E X S O
UT S O
U
A R I S T I P P O U
S P E F S I P P O U
A L O P E K I S
K L E O M E N O U S
XANTHIPPOU
A C H A I O U
I P S I L A N T O U
X E N O K R A T O U S
DORAS D’ISTRIA
P R A S S A
DEL
FON
ROM
A
G L Y K O N O S
O I T I S
C H A R I T O S
S O R V O L O U
G O R G I O U
A R I S T O N I K O U
E V G E N I O U
V O U L G A R E O S
T R I V O N I A N O U
TH
EO
TO
KI
MA
RK
OU
MO
USO
UR
OU STRA
T IGO
U D
OM
POL I
M O U R O U Z I
STIS
I CH
OR
OU
I R O N D A
ME
LE
AG
RO
U
TE
LE
SI L
I S
P AF S A
NI O
U
A G R A S
F E R E K Y D O U
F O K I AN O U
M P I G A
FOT
I AD
OU
I S I OD
OU
A R K T I NO UA G
S P Y R I DO
NO
S
I R O N O S
ARCH
Y T A PO
LY
DA
MA
NT
OS
K L E I T O M AC H OU
L A T E I AN T A G M A
PROTAGORA
ARATOU
K R I SI L
A
ANTI
FON
TOS
I L IODOROU
THEOFRASTOU
T S I KL I T
I RA
F OK I A
NO
U
DIO
SKO
RID
OU
EFFORIONOS
AFTOMEDONTOS
S T A S I N O U
V E R S I KTISIVIOU
PTO
LEM
AIO
N
KLEA
NTH
I
MIMNERMOU
X E N O F A N O U S
GLAF
KOU
MP
AL
AN
OU
M I N I A T I
LEVENTIXANTH
OU
T S AK
AL O
F
NEO
FYTO
U V
AM
VA
NEO
FYTO
U D
OU
KA
MI L I O
NI
MANTZAROU P E T R O U DI M A K I
OA
NTIOU
STOA SPYROMILIOU
V O U K O U R E S T I OU
K R I E Z O T O U
K A P L A NO
N
GORIOU
L A
X E N O F O N T O S
A S K L I P I O U
M A S S A L I A S
S I N A
A M E R I K I S
NA
VA
RI N
OU
M I C H A L I
I P P O K R A T O U S
OM
I R OU
DI D
OT
OU
LY K A V I T T O U
S KOU
FA
S K OU
FA
S OL O
NO
S
ME
RL
I N
P I N D A R O U
ZA
LOK
OS
T A
P A T R I A R C H O U
I O A K E I M
K A R N E A D O U
LO
UK
I AN
OU
IR
OD
OT
OU
K A P S A L I
PL
OU
TA
RC
HO
U
D E I N O K R A T O U S
K A N A R I
MERLIE
OKTAVIOU
A R D I T T O U
L E O S G E O R G I O U
T H O N O S
AN
APA
F SE O
S
SE
KE
RI
KOU
MPA
R I
L Y K E I O U
RI
GI
LL
IS
A R R I A N O U
E R AT OS T H
E NO
US
IPP
OD
AM
OU
PR
OK
LOU
DIOFANTOU
A R C H I MI D O U S
GSOURI
AN
EP
I ST
I MI O
U
AK
AD
I MI A
S
L E O F V G E O R G I O U B
IR
OD
OU
AT
TI
KO
U
O
VA
SI L
I SS
I SA
MA
LI A
S
V A S I L I S S I S O L G A S
E L E F T H E R I O U V E N I Z E L O U ( V S O F I A S )
L E OF O
R OS V
A S I L E OS
K ON
S T A NT I N
OU
ParliamentBuilding
EvzonesBarracks
Museum ofGreek Costume
tirakodimou
Academyof Arts
KallimarmaroStadium
Cultural Centreof Athens
PresidentialPalace
NumismaticMuseum
m
Tomb of theUnkown Soldier
Agios Georgios
BenakiMuseum
Museum ofCycladic Art
ByzantineMuseum
Regional IndexHydra S4Ioulis U3Isthmia R3Itea Q1Kalamos T2Kalapodi R1Kalavrita Q2Kaliani Q3Kandia Q3Karies Q4Karistos U2Kekrhies R3Keratea T3Kesariani T2Kiato R2Kifissia T2Kimi T1Klitoria Q3Kollines Q4Korfos S3Korinthos R3Koutsi R3Kranidi S4Kythnos U4
Acrocorinth R3Aegina S3Aghii Apostoli T2Agia Marina S3Agia Sofia R4Agia Sotira S2Agios Andreas R4Agios Petros R4Aharnes T2Alepochori S2Alveri T1Amarinthos T1Ancient Corinth R3Ancient Nemea R3Andros V3Angistri S3Arachova Q1Argive Iraio R3Argos R3Aspra Spitia R1Assini R4Astros R4Athens T2Corinth Canal R3
Dafni T2Dafni (Evia) S1Davia Q3Delphi Q1Derveni Q2Distomo R1Edipsos S1Egio Q2Egira Q2Elati R1Eleusis S2Epidauros S3Eratini Q1Eretria T1Erithres S2Ermioni S4Ermoupoli V4Evia T1Galaxidi Q1Gavrio V3Giaros V3Glyfada T3Halkida T1Hiliomodi R3
g
g
g
g
g
g
g
g
g
Patra
A8 (E65)
A1 (E94)
A1 (E65)
8
A1 (E7
3
3484448
7
7
70
70
74
33
39
7 (E65)
P E L O P O N N E S E
S T E R E A E L L A S
M
tK i l l i n i
Mt Parnassos2457m
M
Hyd
Spetses
AegAngistri
Poro
Salamina
G u l f o fC o r i n t h
Argol ikosGulf
S a r o n i cG u l f
M i r tS e a
Porto Germeno
Alepochori
Pili
Poros
Nea Epidauros
Hiliomodi
Ligourio
Tolo
Sofiko
Astros
Leontari Agios Andreas
Agia Sofia
Stadio
Kollines Karies
Agios Petros
Levidi
Nestani
Vitna
Klitoria
Kalavrita
Kandia
Davia
Kiato
Xilokastro
Derveni
Trikala
Kaliani
Egira
Korfos
HydraErmioni
Spetses
Kranidi
Villa
Orchomenos
Martino
KalapodiElati
Itea
Eratini
Thespies
Erithres
Agia Sotira Mand
Salamina
Aegina Ag
Methana
Aspra Spitia
Distomo
Dafni
Nea A
Sikia
Ed
LoutrakiPerahora
IsthmiaKekrhies
Nemea
Argive IraioPiryelo
Assini
Nea Kios
Lerna
Porto Heli
PiraKorinthos
Tripoli
Megara
Livadia
Egio
Delphi
D
Eleusis
Arachova
Galaxidi
Thebes
Corinth CanalAncient Corinth/
AcrocorinthKoutsi
Ancient Nemea
OsiosLoukas
Mycenae
TirynsArgos
NafplioEpidauros
Around Athens
Sofiko R3Sounio T3Spetses S4Stadio Q4Steni T1Syros V4Temple of Artemis T2Temple of Poseidon T3Thebes S2Thespies S2Tinos V3Tiryns R3Tolo R4Trikala Q2Tripoli Q4Tzia U3Varkiza T3Vavrona T3Villa S2Vitna Q3Vouliagmeni T3Xilokastro R2Zarakes U2
Lagonissi T3Lavrio T3Leontari Q4Lerna R4Levidi Q3Ligourio R3Livadia R1Loutraki R2Loutsa T2Makronisos U3Mandra S2Marathonas T2Markopoulo T3Marmari U2Martino S1Megara S2Methana S3Mt Killini Q3Mt Parnassos R1Mt Parnitha T2Mycenae R3Nafplio R3Nea Artaki T1Nea Epidauros S3Nea Kios R3
Nea Lampsakos T1Nea Makri T2Nemea R3Nestani Q3Orchomenos R1Osios Loukas R1Palia Fokea T3Perahora R2Pili S2Piraeus T3Piryelo R3Poros S4Porto Germeno S2Porto Heli S4Porto Rafti T3Psachna T1Rafina T2Ramnous T2Salamina S3Sanctaury of
Amphiaraos T2Schinias T2Seta T1Sikia R2Skala Oropou T2
g
g
g
g
g
g
g
g
g k
k
g
Crete, Rhodes, Kos
Chios
, Psa
ra,
Lesv
os, Is
tanb
ul
Mykonos, Paros
91
89
75)
54
4477
AthensAirport
A T T I C A
Mt Parnitha1413m
Tzia
Makronisos
dra
gina
os
C y c l a d e sKythnos
Giaros
Syros
Tinos
Andros
E v i a
A e g e a nS e a
o oa
Andros
Kythnos
Ioulis
Gavrio
MarmariNea Makri
Kifissia
Porto Rafti
LoutsaVavrona
MarkopouloVarkiza
Keratea
Palia Fokea
Lagonissi
Sounio
Kesariani
dra
gia Marina
Aharnes
Karistos
Kimi
Eretria
Nea Lampsakos
SteniPsachna
Setartaki
Amarinthos
Alveri
Skala OropouAghii Apostoli
Kalamos
Zarakes
dipsos
Ermoupoli
Lavrio
aeus
ATHENS
Halkida
afni
Rafina
Temple of Artemis
Ramnous
Sanctaury ofAmphiaraos
Temple ofPoseidon
MarathonasSchinias
Vouliagmeni
Glyfada
KEY
Place of interest
International airport
Ferry port
Motorway
Main road
Secondary road
Other road
Railway
Regional boundary
Summit
0 301030 10 kmmiles20 20
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ATHENS
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