A REPORT ON PAPERCRETE

SUBMITTED BY:ANURAG SINGH

B.ARCH 3rd

YEAR

ROLL NO. : 14

INTRODUCTION

PROPERTIES

RAW MATERIALS

CHEMISTRY

MANUFACTURE

COST

PRODUCTS

CONSTRUCTION

FOUNDATION

BUILDINGS THE WALLS

INSTALLING THE ROOF

MAKING ROOF PANELS

WATER PROOFING

POURING THE ROOF

WINDOWS,DOORS AND CABINETS

PLUMBING AND ELECTRICIAL

STRUCTURES

BIBLIOGRAPHY

INTRODUCTION

Papercrete is a type of fibrous cement, made by shredding paper (old newspspers...) into pulp in water and

adding Portland cement. The thick mix can then be poured into molds and cast like concrete, creating blocks,

panels and innumerable other shapes. When cured and dried (above right), papercrete is strong, lightweight,

insulating and has many properties which make it an ideal building material.

It was discovered by ERIC PATTERSON and MIKE MCCAIN.

PROPERTIES OF PAPERCRETE

Dried Concrete has very low strength.

Papercrete provides good insulation.

R-value is about 2.0 and 3.0 per inch.

Lightweight.

Its mold resistant material and can be used as a sound-proofing material.

It is dimensionally very stable.

Does not support flames and will smolder for days.

The more cement and mineral material is used the more fire proof it becomes.

Resist rodent and insect infestation.

It cannot be used in humid areas or coastal areas, it will absorb water and will become spongy.

Only one floor building can be made at the most two floors.

Its compressive strength is 261 psi as compared to 1600 psi of brick.

RAW MATERIALS The basic constituents of the test mixes are:

1. Paper/Portland Cement

2. Paper/Portland/Sand

3. Paper/Portland/Fly Ash

4. Paper/Portland/Rice Hull Ash

5. Paper/Portland/Styrofoam

6. Paper Mill Sludge/Portland./Fly Ash

7. Paper/Portland/Glass

8. Paper/Portland/Clay

9. Paper/Portland/Lime

CHEMISTRY

Paper is principally wood cellulose, which is considered a fibrous material. Cellulose is the

second most abundant material on earth after rock. It is the main component of plant cell

walls, and the basic building block for many textiles and for paper. Cellulose is a natural

polymer, a long chain of linked sugar molecules made by the linking of smaller molecules.

The links in the cellulose chain are a type of sugar: ß-D-glucose. The cellulose chain bristles

with polar -OH groups. These groups form many hydrogen bonds with OH groups on

adjacent chains, bundling the chains together. The chains also pack regularly in places to

form hard, stable crystalline regions that give the bundled chains even more stability and

strength. This hydrogen bonding forms the basis of papercrete's strength. Viewed under a

microscope, it's possible to see a network of cellulose fibers and smaller offshoots from the

fibers called fibrils.

Fibrils are offshoots of fibers.

Coating these fibers with Portland cement creates a cement matrix, which encases the fibers for

extra strength. Of course paper has more in it than cellulose. Raw cellulose has a comparatively

rough texture. Kaolinite or China clay is used to add smoothness and semi-gloss to paper. Varnish

is added for the glossy look. Then there are various inks and other chemicals added. Many types of

paper are treated with dyes and bleach that can contaminate soil and plant-life. They are

extremely persistent in soil and cannot be broken down by bacteria. It makes sense to encase

them in Portland cement, keep them out of the landfill, and do something useful with them.

Portland cement is an integral component of papercrete. It is usually not used in fidobe or padobe.

A simple paper and water mix takes a great deal of time to dry and it shrinks about 15-25 percent.

Adding Portland cement in an amount equal in weight to the paper cuts drying time by about half

and reduces shrinkage to about 3-5 percent. If nothing were added to paper and water, it would be

less strong, highly flammable, and less resistant to bugs and mold.

No matter what mix you settle on, the great thing about generic papercrete is how it traps

air. When the water drains out and evaporates, it leaves thousands of tiny air pockets. This is

what makes the material light and a good insulator. Adding solid material to the mix (sand,

etc.) affects weight and insulating quality. The best mix is the one which best fits the

application.

MANUFACTURE

MAKE WOODEN FRAME OR WE CAN USE THE PLASTIC FORMS USED TO

MAKE CONCRETE.

SOAK NEWSPAPER OVERNIGHT

MAKE THE PAPER PULP.

WEIGHT CEMENT AND SAND

POUR CEMENT AND SAND INTO THE PAPER PULP

MIX ALL THE INGREDIENTS FOR APPROX. 10 MINUTES

7. POUR THE MIX INTO THE WOODEN OR PLASTIC FORMS

VIBRATE THE MIX TO REMOVE THE AIR

9. LET THE SPECIMENS DRY FOR AT LEAST ONE WEEK ( DRYING TIME

VARIES IN DIFFERENT CLIMATES AND WATER

CONTENT PERCENTAGE ON THE MIX)

REMOVE FORMS

MANUFACTURE AT DIFFERENT SCALE

There are a number of mixers, differentiated mainly by capacity and mobility. The whole idea of mixing is

to tear the paper apart in water to produce slurry, and then mix in additives like Portland cement and sand.

This procedure is followed all the time - when working with small batches in a five-gallon bucket or with

1000 gallon (4500 liter) batches on the back of a 4-wheel drive truck. Get the paper and water mixed first,

and then add the other components.

A number of practitioners prefer to purchase paper, which has already been ripped apart by running it

through a hammer mill. After milling, it looks like cellulose insulation; the type blown into the roof crawl

space of many homes for roof insulation. In fact, it is the same material without moisture resistant and fire

retardant chemicals. The advantage of working with hammer milled paper is that most additives can be

mixed in using conventional concrete mixers. Other special processes require specialized equipment.

5 GALLON (20 LITER)

From a size perspective, the smallest practical mixer is a five-gallon (20 liter) bucket and an

"X" shaped stucco-mixing blade for a heavy-duty electric drill.

X-SHAPED STUCCO MIXING BLADE.

Using a five-gallon bucket doesn't necessarily mean mixing a full five gallons of slurry. It is

regularly use it to mix a few coffee cans full of experimental mix.

To make 9.5 litre of mix in 19 litre can:

Water- 9.5 litre Paper – 500 grams Portland Cement – 500 grams

50 GALLON (212 LITER)

The next larger capacity mixer is the 50-gallon (212 liters) size. These are stationary mixers made from 50-gallon drums. A small 5-

10 horse motor is positioned next to and below the drum so that an "L" angle drive shaft can be used to protrude through a hole in

the bottom of the drum. A lawn mower blade is attached horizontally on the drive shaft. The blade has to face downward or it will

propel the mix out of the drum. A "baffle" (a 2x4 the height of the drum) is bolted vertically at any point on the inside perimeter of

the drum to keep the mix from rotating too quickly to tear up the paper and blend well.

50-gallon mixers work well but sometimes need help ripping apart the paper - not enough power. Some people power 50-gallon

drum mixers (or much larger mixers made with livestock watering tanks) with old vehicles to provide the power necessary to tear up

the paper. For more on 50-gallon drum mixers with electric motors, see the section on Electric Motor Mixers below.

THE TOW MIXER - 200 GALLON (900LITER)

The best-known papercrete mixer has to be Mike McCain's tow mixer. Mike came up with the idea of taking

the rear axle of a rear-drive car or truck and simply reversing its designed use. In His design rear-drive

vehicles, the engine turns a drive shaft, which is connected to a gearbox called a differential, built into the

rear axle of the car. The differential conducts power from the drive shaft to the rear wheels. Mike's vision

was this process in reverse.

Transfers power from the wheels to the drive shaft. He separates the rear axle from the rest of an old rear-

drive car or truck. He then mounts a 900 liter tank over the differential. Turning the differential toward the

sky, he pokes a short section of drive shaft from the differential through the bottom of the tank. He then

attaches a lawn mower blade to the shortened drive shaft. When the tank is towed behind another vehicle,

the wheels on the mixer turn the drive shaft, and the mower blade spins. Since the mower blade is being

driven by the power of the vehicle towing the mixer, it turns with relatively low speed, but tremendous force.

This force tears apart newspapers and magazines with ease.

COST

TOW MIXER

1 - Used rear axle w/ tires and wheels 1 - Trailer coupler (match ball size) 1 - 20 foot (or 2 - 10 foot lengths) - 2" x 2" steel square tubing 1 - 8-10 foot - 2" x 1/4" metal strapping 1 - Livestock tank (Type A) 1 - Gallon can of Bondo 1 - 6"-8" piece of 10" or 12" diameter PVC 1 - Four foot - 4" x 4" 3 - 3/8 inch diameter x 3" lag screws and washers 3 - 1/2 diameter x 3" long anchor bolts, nuts and washers 1 - Sheet 3/4" exterior plywood 1 - "Handtite" pipe plug - 10" or 12" 1 - Gallon fresh or used heavy motor oil or like amount of grease 1 - Big bottle - Fuller's glue 1 - Riding mower blade or "U" shaped sign post - 27 inches long Cover 2 - Sheets - 3/4" plywood 1 - 8 foot - 2" x 4" 1 - 5 foot length of safety belt material (fabric store) 1 - 10-12 foot length of 1" wide rubber – for package - 3/4" staples (for stapling gasket) 1 - package of 5/8" washer screws (for fastening safety belt "hinge") 1 - Package 1 1/2" screws (connecting 2 layers of plywood cover) 1 - Gallon fresh or leftover paint (4 coats) to finish cover

$125.00

$ 15.00

$ 30.00

$ 15.00

$200.00

$ 20.00

$ 10.00

$ 6.00

$ 3.00

$ 9.00

$ 30.00

$ 86.00

$ 5.00

$ 7.00

$ 50.00

$ 60.00

$ 4.00

$ 5.00

$ 3.00

$ 3.00

$ 3.00

$ 2.00

$ 20.00

PRODUCTS

By papercrete we can make bricks, panels or direct walls.

Brick size: 9cm x 9cm x 6cm

panel size: 2ft x 4ft x 11.5cm

CONSTRUCTION

FOUNDATION The foundation was one foot wide and six inches deep. It was filled with

(real) concrete and had rebar reinforcing inside of it. The foundation didn't need to be too heavy duty

since the papercrete is so lightweight.

BUILDING THE WALLS:

The first three or four courses of papercrete will have to be drilled or impaled on the protruding rebar, or

poured in place around the rebar. The rebar is meant to prevent horizontal movement. Pounding it into

the rubble foundation won't prevent the walls from lifting vertically, but if something cataclysmic happens

to lift the weight of 12-14 inch (18-35 centimeter) thick papercrete walls, chances are that nothing would

have kept the structure from lifting.

When just a few inches of rebar are visible above the courses of papercrete, it's time to lay a piece of

rebar horizontally and wire it to the protruding vertical pieces. Then pound the vertical pieces down

almost level with the surface of the papercrete, cover it with a layer of papercrete mortar and start laying

the next courses of blocks. It's a good idea to keep the thickness of the mortar joints to a minimum

whenever possible - ideally about 1/2" (1.25 centimeters). Otherwise, the thick mortar joints will shrink

and your finished walls will lose a bit of height when the mortar is fully cured. This is a good reason to

wait a few weeks after the walls are up (longer in damp climates) before installing windows and doors. If

the mortar joints are thick enough to allow excessive settling, windows may be broken and doors may

not open very well. Usually, excessively thick mortar joints occur because not enough attention was paid

to keeping the blocks level, square and true as the walls were built - the lazy way to make height and

alignment adjustments. Some of this is unavoidable and not very important, but building the entire height

of a wall with 2"-3" (5-7 centimeter) mortar joints will result in some settling. Using a mortar mix rich in

Portland cement will minimize shrinkage and encase each block in a fireproof "container."

But let's get back to installing the rebar. After laying up another two feet (61 centimeters) of blocks,

pound more four-foot (122 centimeters) rebar through the block layers on top into the block layers below.

Repeat the process above, laying a piece of rebar horizontally and wiring it to the protruding vertical

pieces. If you're using slip forms instead of blocks, you can wire the horizontal and vertical pieces of

rebar together, starting at the stem wall, and pour papercrete around and through them all the way to the

top of the wall. This pins the entire wall together and provides a great deal of lateral strength.

INSTALLING THE ROOF:

When we reach roof height, we have a decision to make. We can attach a wooden plate to the top of the

wall and build a conventional roof framework from there, or we can use vigas. Vigas are smaller-

diameter logs used as roof beams. Some builders drill a hole in the vigas and anchor them to the wall by

pounding a long piece of rebar into the papercrete and bending it over the viga. If we want to distribute

the weight carried by the viga over a greater area, we can notch it with a chainsaw and position the flat

area on the wooden plate attached to the top of the wall.

The wooden plate can be attached to the wall in several ways - either by 3/8” or ½” rebar, or by spot

welding short pieces of threaded rods on one end of short pieces of rebar. If the rebar is used by itself,

without the threaded rod, drill a hole in the plate and pound rebar into the papercrete as far as possible,

hopefully a minimum of two feet. It's much easier to use a post driver than a mall or sledgehammer to do

this. Allow 4"- 6" (10-15 centimeters) of the rebar to protrude from the hole and bend it over flat with a

hand mall. This should be done every three-four feet depending on what is beneath the spot where the

rebar is being placed. Sometimes obstructions below where the rebar is being driven, like window

openings, can be avoided by driving the rebar in at an angle. Bending with a hand mall tends to enlarge

the hole made by the rebar and move the block out of position, so the preferred method is using the

threaded rod.

Weld a four inch piece of threaded rod on one end of as many pieces of rebar as you need to hold the

roof down. In essence, we make very long bolts. Drill a hole in the wooden plate, and drive the rebar into

the papercrete until an inch or so of the threaded rod protrudes above the wooden plate. Place a flat

washer over the threaded rod and tighten down a nut. Do this every 3' - 4' feet along the wall. The

wooden plate chosen to distribute the roof weight on the wall should be narrower than the wall - perhaps

a 2x10 - so that papercrete can cover it outside and inside.

Adding a little Plaster of Paris to papercrete mix causes papercrete to adhere solidly to wood. The rebar

method of attaching the roof framework to the wall has been used in structures in Colorado and New

Mexico, which have successfully withstood weathering and storms for a number of years.

After the roof framework has been installed, we have to decide whether wet want to build a conventional

roof, a papercrete roof or a hybrid papercrete-conventional roof. A conventional roof is quite expensive;

it averages about forty percent of the cost of the entire structure. A conventional roof has to be well

insulated, or the insulating value of building the walls with papercrete will be wasted. Conventional roof

systems are much more expensive than papercrete. According to one practitioner, a six-inch thick

papercrete roof can be constructed for about 75 cents per square foot, including a paint sealer. A

Spanish tile roof would cost $11.00 per square foot.

MAKING ROOF PANELS:

If WE choose a papercrete roof, we have to decide whether we want to make papercrete roof panels or

pour the roof. Pouring the roof is not practical if there is no water on the building site and it can't be

trucked in. In that case, roof panels can be made elsewhere and brought in with a pickup or utility trailer.

When making roof panels, it's best to carefully level the ground where the panels will be made so the

thickness of the panels is consistent. Papercrete panels are made with 2' x 4' (61 x 122 centimeter)

forms. The 2' x 4' forms should be built of 2 inch by 4inch (5 x 10 centimeter) lumber. If you make larger,

thicker panels, they will take longer to dry and you may need help to get them up on the roof. To keep

the papercrete clean and help drain out the water, put a sheet of shade cloth on the ground under the

form. Some people use more cement in the mix for roof panels. Adding too much cement will negatively

affect R-value. Strong panels are made by filling the form up to within a half-inch from the top and then

spreading a piece of chicken wire over the mix. Pour the remaining half inch of mix, smooth out the

surface with a trowel, and let it set. In the desert Southwest, you can pull off the form in about half an

hour. You should be able to handle the panel in about four days. It will probably take the panel two

weeks or so to completely dry. When the panel is placed on the rafters or vigas, the side of the panel

with the wire closest to the surface should be placed against the rafter or viga. Panels made like this

should require no additonal reinforcement when fastened to rafters of vigas spaced 16 inches (40

centimeters) apart. Panels layed over vigas or rafters spaced 24 inches (60 centimeters) apart may

require additional support such as a layer of chicken wire stretched over the vigas or rafters before

installing the roof panels.

Offset chicken wire and thin layers of papercrete are installed before the roof panel.

For the greatest strength, roof panels are installed over offset chicken wire and two thin layers of

papercrete. First a sheet of one-inch chicken wire is tightly stretched over the ceiling joists or vigas of the

structure and fastened in place with heavy-duty metal staples. A second layer of one-inch chicken wire is

offset 1/2 inch from the first and installed the same way. Then a thin layer of papercrete is spread on the

chicken wire and allowed to dry to form a strong base for the roof panel

Just before installing the roof panels, another thin layer of papercrete is spread over the base layer to

mortar the panels in place. Then they are screwed to the roof joists or vigas. Since papercrete is

relatively soft, the screws don't have to be as long as the papercrete is thick. They easily countersink

into the papercrete as they bore into the underlying joist or viga. Once the first layer of panels are in

place, you can mortar and screw on additional layers of panels or pour a layer of papercrete. If the roof

is relatively flat, pouring is no problem. If greater than a 4/12 pitch, it would probably be better to mortar

on a second layer of panels.

WATERPROOFING:

After the second layer of panels are added, a thin layer of papercrete should be added over the outside

surface to fill the cracks and smooth out the entire roof surface. At this point, you can choose to leave

the papercrete untreated, waterproof it, or adopt a hybrid approach - cover it with insulating foam or steel

sheeting.

Kelly Hart has lived in a sand bag home covered with untreated papercrete for several years with no

leaks. His home is located in an area where there is snow, and accompanying freeze-thaw cycles. The

roof structure on his home has a fairly steep pitch, like a cone, but he says rainwater does not drain off;

it sinks in before it can reach the ground - and then evaporates.

It is possible to waterproof papercrete with elastomeric paint like Kool Seal or Henry's products.

Elastomerics are quite expensive.

These products produce a thin, flexible rubber-like membrane when dry. When we peel it didn't stretch

very much before holes started to form in it. It seal the roof only if it stayed absolutely intact, but no one

knows for sure how long this membrane will remain flexible and undamaged under the ultra violet

beating of the sun - or in cyclic freeze-thaw situations. Even roofing tar hardens and ultimately cracks in

the sun. A papercrete roof is slightly springy; it has a little "give" in it. There is a risk walking on it and

stretching the elastomeric membrane.

If it cracked or perforated at all, and water were trapped under it, mold, mildew, fungus or degradation in

the papercrete could follow.

One practitioner is extremely concerned about mold. He feels that using a solid papercrete roof is risky

"except when another kind of material (such as a metal roof) is assembled over it, and the papercrete

can breath to allow any possible leaks to air out. This appoach is also much more healthy for the

inhabitants of the structure, since breathability has been established as desirable for a "healthy" house.

Long available for industrial applications, crystalline waterproofing is now used in residential

applications. It consists of a dry powder compound of Portland cement, very fine treated silica sand, and

proprietary chemicals. Combining the product with water and applying it to the surface of concrete

results in a catalytic reaction that forms several inches of non-soluble crystalline fibers within the pores

and capillary tracts of concrete. This seals the concrete against the penetration of water or liquids from

all directions. UGL DryLok is one of these products. Supposedly this will work in either cured papercrete

or in the wet mix itself. It's pricey, but said to be so effective that it’s possible to make ponds with

papercrete. If it will hold water without leaking, it should prevent water penetration.

Coating the outside of a papercrete roof with about an inch of Sprayed Polyurethane Foam (SPF) is

another approach. It is expensive, and not environmentally sensitive, but it may be a good compromise.

POURING THE ROOF:

Some people prefer to place wet papercrete directly on the roof rather than go through the process of

making, cutting and fitting roof panels. This works fine for structures with nearly flat roofs. Of course, a

nearby source of water is required.

A layer of one-inch chicken wire is tightly stretched over the ceiling joists or vigas of the structure and

fastened in place with heavy-duty metal staples. A second layer of one-inch chicken wire is offset 1/2

inch from the first and installed the same way. Ideally, the papercrete is drained on the ground and then

pumped, augured or handed up to the roof in buckets. Mike McCain has used a four-inch grain augur to

lift papercrete to roof heights. A number of people have written that pumps are not reliable, but others

have found ways to make them work.

A few inches of papercrete are spread over the chicken wire, which sags somewhat under the weight.

After it is allowed to dry, a second layer of papercrete - and possibly additional layers - are placed the

same way. The unintended advantage to this method is that the papercrete sags down between the

ceiling joists or vigas thereby providing greater thickness and more insulation value. The down side is

that wet material is heavy to work with. Of course, cutting papercrete panels is dusty, so it all depends

on which method we like best.

After the roof is poured and smoothed out, the same waterproofing methods can be used as

those for roof panels described above. Another way to go is to build a vaulted roof or domed

roof out of blocks right on top of the walls. See Domes. This method has been done

successfully, with beautiful results, in Texas by Clyde T. Curry. Besides saving the cost of the

roofing framework, the domed or vaulted ceilings of papercrete provide good insulation.

WINDOWS, DOORS AND CABINETS:

If windows and door are pre-hung in their own frames, they can simply be screwed into the papercrete

opening. The gaps can be trimmed conventionally and/or filled with papercrete. It is possible by adding a

small amount of Plaster of Paris to papercrete where it comes into contact with wood. Mixed this way,

the papercrete adheres very firmly to the wood. Before drywall, which is Plaster of Paris between sheets

of paper backing, wood lath was nailed to studs and covered with plaster to finish walls. That might

explain why the papercrete/plaster mix works so well with wood.

If wood or metal frames have to be installed, they can be screwed directly into the papercrete. The

opposite is also true. At a construction site in New Mexico, there is a narrow sections of unsupported

papercrete block walls, between floor-to-ceiling windows, angle-screwed to the window frames. The

frames themselves are independently anchored to the floor and to the roof plate. This stabilized the

short walls extremely well. Any gaps are filled with papercrete and the inside surface of the wall opening

(not covered by the frame) can be surfaced with papercrete.

Papercrete has another quality, which makes it ideal for installing frameless glass. The glass can simply

be embedded in the papercrete. Papercrete doesn't expand or contract perceptibly, even when wet or

frozen, so sheets of glass or glass block can be embedded in and trimmed with papercrete without

fearing that they will be damaged by expansion or contraction of the papercrete.

Windows and doors should ideally be insulated or the R-value benefit of papercrete walls and roof is

compromised. Windows should be at least double paned, but that costs more. It is easier to find

cheaper, older single-pane windows and unframed glass than newer multi-paned windows. The older

windows have character and look more substantial. Since glass can be embedded in papercrete, so can

several separate sheets of glass or two complete windows. The one on the inside should be open-able

for cleaning. The air between the panes is the best possible insulator, so if using two single-pane

windows, space them as far apart as is convenient. In extreme climates, insulated doors or two-door

entryways should be built to minimize heating and cooling loss.

PLUMBING AND ELECTRICAL:

Installing plumbing lines requires cutting holes and channels in papercrete. This is fairly easy if original

papercrete mix didn't have a surplus of solids (sand, powdered glass) or cement in it. Cutting papercrete

results in a lot of dust. Consider wearing a mask or respirator. Holes and channels can be made with

conventional drills and a chainsaw. Once the pipes are soldered and pressed into slots in the

papercrete, they are covered with more papercrete. The benefit is that the entire plumbing system is

insulated. Cold stays cold and hot stays hot longer - less wasted energy.

Narrow channels for electrical runs can be cut with a circular saw or chain saw. To make holes for

outlets, cut horizontal and vertical slits with a circular saw. Then pry out the unwanted piece with a

screwdriver. One of our practitioners mentioned that he puts a glob of non-flammable mortar behind his

outlet boxes for safety, since most home fires start where the wiring enters the outlet boxes. Outlet

boxes can be angle-screwed directly into the papercrete. Once the electrical wiring and outlets are

installed and tested, the channels for the electrical runs are filled with papercrete.

FINISH - EXTERIOR & INTERIOR:

Exterior finish can be papercrete, stucco or a 60-40 mix of papercrete/stucco. Some practitioners use

two sacks of Portland cement and make their stucco the same way as their blocks. Doubling the amount

of Portland cement in the papercrete gives it more strength and resistance to abrasion. Papercrete

stucco can be painted with exterior latex paint. Papercrete stucco takes paint very well. Without a

primer, one coat covers quite well. For peace of mind, two or three coats are advised. Rather than pay

the high cost of a primer or multiple coats of the same color paint, just purchase latex paint that has

been color-matched incorrectly or abandoned at the paint counter.

Kelly Hart has used a white lime wash, which is particularly attractive, in several rooms of his home. He

also discovered a way to mix latex paint 1:10 with water to produce beautiful water-based stains

. STRUCTURES

Tim Pye's 3000-square-foot

papercrete house under

construction in AZ. On the left is the

poured wall; on the right are his

forms. In the foreground is the

pump he uses to pump slurry from

the mixer into the forms.

Hybrid papercrete/Earthship being

built on Vancouver Island by Rick

Price

BIBLIOGRAPHY

WWW.GOOGLE.COM

WWW.LIVINGINPAPER.COM

OPENARCHITECTURENETWORK.ORG

WWW.MOTARSPRAYER.COM

WWW.PAPERCRETENM.COM

WWW.GREENHOMEBUILDING.COM

WWW.MAKEZIN.COM

WWW.MOTHEREARTHNEWS.COM