Marker

Marker MakingMarker Making Definition:Definition:

precise arrangement of pattern pieces precise arrangement of pattern pieces oror

process of determining the most efficient process of determining the most efficient layout of pattern pieces layout of pattern pieces

Points to be considered before Points to be considered before marker making:marker making:

• • Fabric width must be higher than marker width (1/2 Fabric width must be higher than marker width (1/2 inch)inch)

Fabric length must be higher than marker length.Fabric length must be higher than marker length. Length of the cutting table.Length of the cutting table. Production planning.Production planning. When pattern pieces are laid down on the piece of cloth, When pattern pieces are laid down on the piece of cloth,

the grain line should be parallel to the line of the warp the grain line should be parallel to the line of the warp in the woven fabric and wale in the knitted fabric. in the woven fabric and wale in the knitted fabric.

Marker Marker

Marker MakingMarker MakingMarker Efficiency: Marker Efficiency:

the percentage of the total the percentage of the total fabric that is fabric that is actually used in actually used in garment parts. garment parts.

Area of pattern in the markerArea of pattern in the marker

Marker Efficiency = -----------------------------------------X Marker Efficiency = -----------------------------------------X 100%100%

Total area of the marker plan Total area of the marker plan

MarkerMarker Factors influencing Marker efficiency:Factors influencing Marker efficiency:

• • Marker planner:Marker planner: competency, experience, honesty and technical competency, experience, honesty and technical knowledge of the marker planner knowledge of the marker planner

• • Size of the garments:Size of the garments: Smaller and larger garment sizes Smaller and larger garment sizes ↓ Marker ↓ Marker EfficiencyEfficiency

MMedium garment sizes edium garment sizes ↑↑ Marker Efficiency Marker Efficiency

• • Numbers of sizes in a style:Numbers of sizes in a style: FFewer and higher numbers of sizes in a style ewer and higher numbers of sizes in a style ↓ ↓ Marker Efficiency Marker Efficiency

MMedium numbers of sizes edium numbers of sizes ↑↑ Marker Efficiency Marker Efficiency

PlotterPlotter

Marker MakingMarker Making

• • Marker length: Marker length:

Higher marker length ↑ Marker Efficiency.Higher marker length ↑ Marker Efficiency.

•• Pattern Engineering:Pattern Engineering:

Marker efficiency can be increased by Marker efficiency can be increased by changing pattern design of particular parts changing pattern design of particular parts of the garments. of the garments.

•• Fabric characteristics:Fabric characteristics:

Usually symmetrical fabric Usually symmetrical fabric ↑↑ Marker Marker EfficiencyEfficiency

Asymmetric fabric ↓ Lower marker Asymmetric fabric ↓ Lower marker efficiency.efficiency.

Marker MakingMarker Making• • Marker making method: Marker making method:

Computerized method ↑ Marker Computerized method ↑ Marker Efficiency Efficiency

Manual method ↓ Marker EfficiencyManual method ↓ Marker Efficiency

• • Marker width: Marker width:

↑ ↑ marker width↑ M.E. and easier marker width↑ M.E. and easier marker plan marker plan

Methods of marker makingMethods of marker making A. Manual method.A. Manual method.In this process, marker can be made in two waysIn this process, marker can be made in two ways

a. a. By using full size pattern:By using full size pattern: -full size pattern pieces on marker -full size pattern pieces on marker paper paper oror-directly on the top ply of the fabric in a -directly on the top ply of the fabric in a

spread spread b. b. By using miniaturized pattern:By using miniaturized pattern:

-full size pattern pieces are -full size pattern pieces are reduced reduced to to 1/5 of its original size 1/5 of its original size by using by using

pantograph pantograph -made by plastic sheet or thick board paper -made by plastic sheet or thick board paper -Marker planning is done by using those -Marker planning is done by using those

miniaturized patterns miniaturized patterns -reproduced full size using the mini-marker -reproduced full size using the mini-marker

as as a reference. a reference.

Methods of marker makingMethods of marker making

Area Covered by pattern measured by Area Covered by pattern measured by planimeter to get Marker efficiency.planimeter to get Marker efficiency.

higher marker efficiency as control over higher marker efficiency as control over the marker is better than the full size the marker is better than the full size pattern pattern

rapidly being replaced by computerized rapidly being replaced by computerized methodmethod

PantographPantograph

Features of manual marker makingFeatures of manual marker making

time consuming and require a great deal of time consuming and require a great deal of space space

errors and inconsistencies that may occur in errors and inconsistencies that may occur in grain variation, poor line definition, grain variation, poor line definition, placement and alignment of pieces and slip placement and alignment of pieces and slip of the pieces of the pieces

Accuracy of a manually made marker Accuracy of a manually made marker depends on the skill of the individual who depends on the skill of the individual who laid out the marker and traced it laid out the marker and traced it

Methods of marker makingMethods of marker making

B. B. computerized marker makingcomputerized marker making very accurate and provides the greatest opportunity for very accurate and provides the greatest opportunity for

pattern manipulation, marker efficiency and shortest pattern manipulation, marker efficiency and shortest response time response time

Production patterns may be developed on the computer or Production patterns may be developed on the computer or digitized or scanned in to the computer digitized or scanned in to the computer

parameters for markers are entered in to the computer parameters for markers are entered in to the computer from cutting orders - style numbers, size distribution and from cutting orders - style numbers, size distribution and fabric width fabric width

Protective devices are built in to the programs to ensure Protective devices are built in to the programs to ensure the grain alignment and prevent overlapping of pieces the grain alignment and prevent overlapping of pieces

Automatic marker making may be used to determine Automatic marker making may be used to determine yardage requirements and fabric costs for designs prior to yardage requirements and fabric costs for designs prior to line adoption line adoption

Advantages of computerized methodAdvantages of computerized method Increases in material efficiency with subsequent Increases in material efficiency with subsequent

decreases in material waste, decreases in material waste, Time and labor savings in making markers; Time and labor savings in making markers; Improvements in overall marker quality; Improvements in overall marker quality; Avoidance of backlogs during peak periods; and Avoidance of backlogs during peak periods; and Fast, precise cost proposals for clients.Fast, precise cost proposals for clients.

Disadvantages of computerized method:Disadvantages of computerized method:

Initial investment is high.Initial investment is high. Skilled operator is required. Skilled operator is required.

Types of markerTypes of marker Open Marker: Open Marker:

Markers made with full pattern piecesMarkers made with full pattern pieces

Closed marker: Closed marker: Markers made with full pattern pieces Markers made with full pattern pieces

Modes of markerModes of marker

A.A. nap-either-way: nap-either-way: symmetric, non directional fabrics, symmetric, non directional fabrics, considering only grain line considering only grain line

B. B. nap-one-way: nap-one-way: asymmetrical and directional fabrics, all asymmetrical and directional fabrics, all pattern pieces be placed on a marker in only one pattern pieces be placed on a marker in only one direction direction

C. C. nap-up-and-down: nap-up-and-down: some directional fabrics some directional fabrics all the pattern pieces of one size to be placed in one all the pattern pieces of one size to be placed in one direction and another size placed in the opposite direction and another size placed in the opposite directiondirection

D. D. group: group: ‘end to end’ or ‘side to side’ shade variation, ‘end to end’ or ‘side to side’ shade variation,

pattern pieces of a size of garments are laid together in pattern pieces of a size of garments are laid together in accordance to the shade of the fabric accordance to the shade of the fabric

Constraints of Marker making:Constraints of Marker making:a.a. Grain LineGrain Line : Hang and drape of the : Hang and drape of the

garment is depending on the matching of garment is depending on the matching of grain line. To maintain grain line is one of grain line. To maintain grain line is one of the biggest constraints to achieve higher the biggest constraints to achieve higher marker efficiency marker efficiency

b.b. Characteristics of the fabric: Characteristics of the fabric: Special Special attention required to set pattern pieces attention required to set pattern pieces on the asymmetrical fabric, such as pile on the asymmetrical fabric, such as pile fabric, special print etc.fabric, special print etc.

c.c. Design of the garments:Design of the garments: Garments Garments from check or stripe fabric requires from check or stripe fabric requires mirror image (matching check or stripe in mirror image (matching check or stripe in adjacent two parts of the garment) adjacent two parts of the garment)

Constraints of Marker making:Constraints of Marker making:

d. Cutting Quality:d. Cutting Quality: Marker should be Marker should be made carefully so that cutting made carefully so that cutting blade can move easily in the layblade can move easily in the lay

e. Production Planning: e. Production Planning: production production planning is a constraint of planning is a constraint of

marker marker making as numbers of making as numbers of pieces of pieces of

different sizes are not exactly different sizes are not exactly proportionate. proportionate.

Fabric wastage outside markerFabric wastage outside marker

Ends of ply losses:Ends of ply losses: For the For the extensibility of the fabric and extensibility of the fabric and limitation of cutting machines, 2 cm limitation of cutting machines, 2 cm allowances is required in each end of allowances is required in each end of the each ply.the each ply.

Loss of fabric ends: Loss of fabric ends: during during preparation of the fabric lay, the last preparation of the fabric lay, the last or end remains of the fabric roll are or end remains of the fabric roll are separated by cutting. separated by cutting.

Fabric wastage outside markerFabric wastage outside marker

Selvedge losses: Each fabric has Selvedge losses: Each fabric has two selvedges along width. The two selvedges along width. The amount of cut out is considered amount of cut out is considered 3% (approximately) along width3% (approximately) along width

Purchase loss: Less fabric may Purchase loss: Less fabric may wound on roll than identified wound on roll than identified lengthlength

Methods of Drawing a MarkerMethods of Drawing a Marker

1. Marking directly on the fabric1. Marking directly on the fabric a. a. Drawing by Chalk or Drawing by Chalk or

pencil:pencil:mark directly onto the fabric mark directly onto the fabric using pipe clay or wax using pipe clay or wax not allow copyingnot allow copyingleast accurate method least accurate method Not applicable method for Not applicable method for

pile pile or woolen fabric or woolen fabric


B. B. Paint Spray:Paint Spray: fine jets of paint fine jets of paint are sprayed over the patterns that are sprayed over the patterns that have been laid on the fabric, leaving have been laid on the fabric, leaving an outline of the patterns when they an outline of the patterns when they are removed are removed

More fabric is required to allow gaps for paint.More fabric is required to allow gaps for paint. Paint can migrate under the pattern edges Paint can migrate under the pattern edges Pattern sizes grow as layers of paint build up Pattern sizes grow as layers of paint build up

The machine must be cleaned every dayThe machine must be cleaned every day. .


2. Marking on the paper:2. Marking on the paper: pattern pieces pattern pieces are precisely arranged on to the marker are precisely arranged on to the marker paper and draw the outline of the patterns paper and draw the outline of the patterns by using pencil. This method is widely by using pencil. This method is widely used in the industry. used in the industry.

3. Computerized Drawing:3. Computerized Drawing: – Graded patterns in the computer are manipulated on Graded patterns in the computer are manipulated on

screen to produce a markerscreen to produce a marker – the corresponding fabric width is shown on the screen the corresponding fabric width is shown on the screen

and the range of the pattern pieces are shown on topand the range of the pattern pieces are shown on top


3. Computerized Drawing:3. Computerized Drawing:– These pieces can be rotated, reversed and These pieces can be rotated, reversed and

moved into place moved into place – The computer can calculate marker efficiency The computer can calculate marker efficiency – The completed marker is then drawn using a The completed marker is then drawn using a

linked digital plotter. linked digital plotter. – These systems are extremely quick and These systems are extremely quick and

accurate and an unlimited quantity of markers accurate and an unlimited quantity of markers can be produced and/or reproduced can be produced and/or reproduced


4. Photographic System:4. Photographic System: patterns patterns pieces are set onto a light sensitive pieces are set onto a light sensitive paper passing through ultra-violet paper passing through ultra-violet light and revealed by using ammonia light and revealed by using ammonia vapor. This method is quick and vapor. This method is quick and clean clean

Methods of Duplicating a Marker:Methods of Duplicating a Marker:

a. Carbon duplicating:a. Carbon duplicating: Carbon Carbon paper in between two marker paperpaper in between two marker paper– Suitable to copy 3-4 piecesSuitable to copy 3-4 pieces– This duplication method has fairly low This duplication method has fairly low

capital and material costs capital and material costs – dirty , poor impression in the lower dirty , poor impression in the lower

layerlayer– Spreading and rolling of carbon paper is Spreading and rolling of carbon paper is

difficult, labour intensive processdifficult, labour intensive process


b. Spirit duplicating:b. Spirit duplicating: working working procedure is same as Office procedure is same as Office duplicating machine/Xerox machine duplicating machine/Xerox machine – Only significant difference is that the Only significant difference is that the

size of the machine size of the machine – Suitable for copying 40-50 piecesSuitable for copying 40-50 pieces– Not suitable for higher marker widthNot suitable for higher marker width– May produce defective copy if master May produce defective copy if master

copy set on the machine improperly. copy set on the machine improperly.

Methods of Duplicating a Marker:Methods of Duplicating a Marker: c. Photographic method:c. Photographic method: With the With the

photographic method, the original photographic method, the original marker is set onto a light sensitive marker is set onto a light sensitive paper using ultra-violet light and paper using ultra-violet light and revealed by using ammonia vapor. revealed by using ammonia vapor. This method is quick and clean and This method is quick and clean and produces unlimited numbers of produces unlimited numbers of duplications duplications


d. Perforated method: d. Perforated method: obsolete obsolete technique that involves punching a series technique that involves punching a series of perforation around the marker, placing of perforation around the marker, placing it on the fabric and lightly dusting with it on the fabric and lightly dusting with chalk. It can be used many timeschalk. It can be used many times– dirty process and poor line definition dirty process and poor line definition

Technology

Marker