Some Comments on the Great War Diary of Rev. H.R Cooke, M.C.Chaplain to the Forces, 1915 - 1919

Henry Cooke volunteered for Army service in 1914 when he was a curate at Torquay, Devon. He was called to report to the War Office in May 1915 and sent the same day to France. He seems to have had no significant training or instruction but was fortunate to have a day's overlap with a predecessor at his first post at a military hospital in France ! He had some background as a cadet in the 03.C. at his boarding (public) school a dozen years earlier (and one included photograph shows him in that ~'rank" and "role").

After some months of active chaplain's duties in France he went with the Royal Artillery 98, 99 and 100 Brigades (equivalent to modern Batteries) to Salonika in northern Greece in November 1916. He was made Ship's Adjutant of the ship that carried 10 officers, 175 men and 575 horses.

He landed at Salonika on 12/12/1915, his 30th Birthday and by a remarkable coincidence sailed from Salonika on his 32nd birthday (page 47) for (eventually) Mesopotamia.

He carried out chaplain's and associated duties close to the front line of the "Salonica Front" against the Bulgars and Germans (with one home leave) for two years. He was awarded the Military Cross in January 1918 for "valuable services", having been mentioned in despatches twice previously (page 49). The diary refers only indirectly to his particular actions concerned: see "excitements" on page 52.

He sailed through the Suez Canal to Basra. After base and hospital work there and at Baghdad, he was posted to the Cavalry Division (page 53) which involved a lot of movements and actions against the enemy. He was wounded (and companions killed) in April 1918 (page 55) but returned to duty a month later. He visited the Archbishops at Mosul (page 63). He returned to England in January 1919 and was presented with his M.C. at Buckingham Palace in May 1919.

His subsequent career is noted briefly on the Summary page of the Diary, M.RC.

Summary of the Diary

April 1915 Chaplain at 10 General Hospital, Rouen, France

September 1915 Chaplain to 12 Field Ambulance, France

October 1915 Posted as Chaplain with 22nd Division, France

November 1915 Sailed with 98, 99, 100 and 101 Brigades, Royal Field Artillery from Marseilles.

December 1915 Landed at Salonica, Greece

December 1915 Chaplain with the Gunners on active operations on the Salonica Front against the

to February 1917 Germans and Bulgarians.

February 1917 To England for leave.

to April 1917

April 1917 to With the Gunners on the Salonica Front.

December 1917 Twice Mentioned in Despatches (see entry on January 11, 1918).

Awarded the M.C., published in London Gazette dated January 1, 1918 (see entry on February 27, 1918).

December 1917 Sailed from Salonica and through the Suez Canal.

January 1918 Landed at Basra, Mesopotamia.

March 1918 to Chaplain with the Cavalry Division and the 13th Hussars on active operations.

November 1918.

April 29, 1918 Wounded

January 1919 Returned to England, having accepted the offer by the Prince of Wales of the appointment of Vicar of Princetown with Postbridge and Dartmoor.

Subsequently

May 15, 1919 Attended at Buckingham Palace for presentation of the M.C.

1919 to 1924 Vicar of Princetown with Postbridge and Dartmoor.

1924 to 1939 Vicar of King's Teignton, Devon.

1939 to 1956 Vicar of Seaton, Devon. Appointed Prebendary of Exeter Cathedral.

November 11,1968 Died, aged 82. The 50th Anniversary of the end of World War 1

Description of the main Photographs at end of diary

Page 1

Top left: Year 1900 (approx) at St. Johns in the uniform of the O.T.C. (Officers Training Corps).

Top right: November 23rd 1915, ready to embark on S.S. Eloby at Marseilles for voyage to Salonika. He was appointed Ship's Adjutant. On board were 575 horses and mules as well as men, guns and ammunition.

Bottom left and right: 1916-1917 during the Salonika Campaign. This included active fighting against Bulgar and German troops.

Page 2

Top left and right: 1916-1917 during the Salonika Campaign. This included active fighting against Bulgar and German troops.

Bottom left: 1919 in Army Chaplain's uniform (with wound stripes) before demobilisation.

Bottom right: May 19th 1919 outside Buckingham Palace after being presented with the medal of the Military Cross, accompanied by his sister.

Other photographs in this diary were not taken by H. R. Cooke but were added 2013

DIARY OF H.R. COOKE CHAPLAIN TO THE FORCES

10, GENERAL HOSPITAL ROUEN

12th FIELD AMBULANCE 4th DIVS, 22nd DIVISION E.Q., R.F.A.

Home Address: Ipplepen Vicarage, Newton Abbot.

May 12 Reported for duty at War Office & ordered embark same day arrived Southampton 4.10 p.m. & sailed same night by S.S. Normania arrived safely at Havre 10 a.m. after a smooth passage.

May 13 Reported at H.Q. near the Hotel de Ville, sent to Hotel Tortoni - comfortable billet & a number of young officers all very friendly - walked round town being Ascension Day the town was crowded.

May 14 At 10 a.m. received orders to proceed to No. 10 General Hospital Rouen by 6.19 train, journey slow, arrived Rouen 10 p.m. and spent night at Hotel de France.

May 15 Proceeded with kit on transport wagon to the Hospital & reported to Lieut Colonel E. W. Slayter O.C. Very fortunate my predecessor (Rev. Banken-Jone) did not leave till next day so I was able to get a great deal of useful information from him.

May 16 Celebration 7 a.m. in Church tent (altar & cross & flowers & lights), 11 a.m. Matins & my first address. 2 p.m. & 4 p.m. funerals (see other book) 6 p.m. United Service, Rev. JT. Bird (1st Class Military Chaplain) Presbyterian - took service & I spoke - quite good congregations.

May 17 Went into Rouen - Cathedral with the beautiful spire - a town of fine old churches - in the afternoon made my first visits to the wards (10 & the special) evening heavy rain.

May 18 In the morning went into Rouen & explored some more of the wonderful old churches 2 p.m. funeral, later visited some more of the wards.

5.15 p.m. Concert by party from London.

May 19 Visited wards in the evening at 6 p.m. Voluntary United Service quite a good congregation. Inoculated for second time.

May 20 Several serious cases reported to me - visited them & wrote a good many letters for men.

May 21 Went in to H.Q. with Padre Bird - visited various serious cases & wrote letters home for some.

May 22

May 1915

S.S. Normania

Hotel Tortoni

May 23 Whitsunday 20 at 7 a.m. H.C. & good congregations throughout day - called up in night to see a dying Canadian boy.

May 24 Pilgrimage Day of Joan of Arc, so proceeded in the morning to Bon Secours - tremendous crowds.

May 25 In morning Chaplains Meeting, in afternoon busy in the wards - tea with Ivy Taunton in No. 12 Stationary. Evensong 6 p.m. small congregation given H.L.I. to look after.

May 26, 27 Usual programme of visiting wards - many wounded coming in - 500 in 36 hours.

May 28 Afternoon off - went up Rouen Cathedral spire nearly to the top - but found my head would not stand it. Inspected the glorious churches of S. Ouen & Maclou.

May 29 Beautiful weather -

May 30 Trinity Sunday 12 H.C., large congregation at 11 & good at 6 p.m.

May 31 Went with Padre Bird to Bon Secour, in morning, afternoon visited wards as usual.

June 1 – 6 Very hot spell - not many wounded in hospital.

June 5 Buried a German prisoner at St. Etienne* rode horseback & back through the pine forest. [*du Rouvray – 4 miles South on West bank]

June 6 H.C. 15 Congregations not large - very few walking patients. After 6 p.m. Evensong went to the Military Prison at 'La Belle Nouvelle' & took service for a large number of English soldiers - a curious crowd in their large stone prison hall but they joined very heartily in the service.

June 7 Went with Ivy T. down the river - very hot

June 8 Meeting of Chaplains.

June 11 Visited prison.

June 13 15 H.C. - still not very many men in hospital so congregation not large.7 p.m. service at prison.

June 14 Long walk with Padre Bird & Dr. MacDonald to Petit Couronne to see Corneilles house then on to Grand Couronne where we had tea & the liquid never to be forgotten [C.17th dramatist Pierre Corneilles]

June 15 7 a.m. ascended Rouen Cathedral spire to the top with 4 other men. 8 a.m. H.C. for Chaplains & later meeting. Afternoon - as usual visited wards.

June 16 Walk in evening with Ivy.

June 17/18 As on other days visited words.

June 19 Played cricket for hospital helped beat No. 3 Infantry Base. Saw first aeroplane in France.

Pierre Corneille's house

May / June 1915

Rouen Cathedral

June 20 12 at 7 a.m. H.C. fair congregations throughout day, in the evening took service at La Belle Nouvelle Prison.

June 21 Received Weekly Dispatch tobacco gift - called at Convalescent Camp & inspected Indian Hospital. Adult Baptism - George McLean Page 2nd Batt. East Kent - age 41. Matron & Sister witnesses.

June 22 Attended weekly Chaplains meeting — afternoon tea with nurses - introduction of tennis - Evensong & fair congregation.

June 23 Met Frank Herson in town on way up again to front. Had tea with Dr. MacDonald in town after visiting wards.

June 26 Most successful picnic given by Lieut. Satow. We - officers & sisters drove in motor charabancs into forest of S Etienne - I had a stroll before tea & then a very good tea. After which we had a series of races, with the help of Sister Hessy I won first prize in one race. We arrived home after a most enjoyable drive about 8 p.m.

June 27 Usual services - quite a good Sunday - tired to sing canticles in morning for first time - the choir did fairly well.

June 29 Usual Chaplains meeting - in afternoon a stroll with Sister H. M. in forest - picked a large bundle of bull-rushes.

July l All the week visited wards - during this month June & beginning of July - all the hospitals were very empty – very few serious cases but a certain number of sick & a few "tired". Apres midi went-with Ivy to St Adrien [on E. bank opposite St. Etienne – very tiny place] - saw the quaint old stone-hewn church had tea & crossed river to St. Etienne & back to town Ivy to camp & I to the “Omnia" dinner with Padre McLean - (Presbyterian) reinforcement camp – Turnbull from 11 Com Stationary & Broadbent - after dinner we went to the station and saw off a large number of men going up to the front.

4 July Services not very largely attended as there were comparatively few in hospital - but quite a happy Sunday.

July 6 Attended Chaplains Meeting.

July 7 Met Sister H. in town & went round the roof of St Ouen

Lieut. Hobson organised a very good nigger minstrel concert.

July 9 Had horse at 7 a.m. & rode with Padre Turnbull of No. 11 Hospital thro' the forest to Grand Essart thence to Grand Couronne (8 a.m.) [@7 miles to S.W. of Rouen, between folds of the Seine] breakfast in café coffee in bowls with soup spoons. Rode home by the main road to Petit Couronne & so by forest & manoir le grand home - a most enjoyable trip.

July 9 & following daysEach day visited wards but at this period the hospital (like all others at Rouen) was extra-ordinary empty.

July 11 Quite a good Sunday. Men turned up well & orderlies singing getting much better. Miss Wotton (St. John Ambulance) accepted duties of organist. Prison service as usual at 7 p.m. number here too were smaller.

June / July 1915

July 12 & following - usual programme of visiting. One funeral.

July 13 Chaplains weekly meeting.

July 14 Another Miss Lena Ashwell concert - terrific storm of rain - Ivy came over to the concert.

July 15 A ride before breakfast with Turnbull.

July 16 - 28 Nothing of particular note took place - visited wards each afternoon still slack in numbers – a fair number of sick of all kinds & of all regiments but not many wounded - hospital organised cricket & tennis both a great success – with help of matron & Miss Casserley furnished Church Marquee better - dark red frontal & dossal, brass cross & candlesticks & vases. Mrs. Whitehead sent out two good kneelers. Mortuary also improved - violet frontal & pall & cross & picture.

July 27 After Chaplains meeting went with Turnbull & Blackburn & 12 Station for a tram ride to the country north of Rouen – had lunch at small café and walk into country – heavy rain so sheltered in cottage till able to come back dry.

July 28 Went with Dr. Macdonald & saw the field bakeries & motor transport repair depot.

July 29 Appointed to see off reinforcement trains - each carriage supplied with papers when men in train we go round to each and give tobacco or cigarettes, testament or prayer cards & speak a few serious words, astonishing response of men to religion.

July 31 3 men of my prison killed by motor lorry. I buried one at Bois Guillaume on Aug. 3. 59 [@3 miles to the North]

Aug. l Usual Sunday Services; in the evening prisoners on strike through having too many bags to do

Aug. 4 1st Anniversary of outbreak of War -H.C. 6.30 a.m. quite a good numberLitany 11.30 a.m. a representative congregation.United Evening intercession service6 p.m. Crowded Central Service in Y.M.C.A. hut 27th division - two bands - quite 1100 men present.Sore men off at station till midnight & arrived home 1 a.m. delayed throu' Cavendish Club lorry repeatedly breaking down.

Aug 6 Turnbull borrowed car & took self & Danvers & Blackburn through Elbeuf to Robert the Devils Castle [at Moulineaux to S. W.] - a grand view then to La Bouille for lunch [further W. on Seine], left by 12.30 steamer to Rouen.

Aug. 8 Sunday Services quite encouraging.

Aug. 9 This week more men began to arrive, surgical & medical.The Matron Miss Mark leaves for Boulogne.Train work most days.

Aug. 10 Scotch funeral for Turnbull

Aug. 10 Visited wards as usual each day - most interesting work.

Aug 14 Stroll with P intended to pick blackberries, but too wet so walked to Petit Couronne to Corneille house, had "tea" at small café kept by woman who had lost her Robert the Devil's Castle

July / August 1915

husband at Marne, she very horrified at our eating bread and butter with "citronade".

Aug. 15 Quite a good number of men at early celebration. At 11 o'clock heavy rein interfered with sermon - could not be heard & in evening a counter attraction a fire at No. 12 . Stationary.

Aug 16 More men on the serious list than for some time.

Aug. 17 Usual weekly meeting of Chaplains rode down with Turnbull in car.

Aug. 19 Visit by the Bishop of Birmingham who went round the wards and admired the Church.

Aug. 20 The Bishop celebrated in 3rd echelos Chapel, and afterwards we met him at breakfast. Later I went with Danvers of 12 Stat. to see the crypt of S Gervais' Church

Aug. 22 Padre Bird away on leave so I had camp to myself for Sunday, resumed the evening service at prison which I had dropped for 2 Sundays on account of the strike. On this occasion it went with a

Aug. 23 Combined “outing” of padres. Turnbull borrowed the Consul's car & Staveley drove his own and between the 2 we took 17 which included 2 French interpreters. We started about 10.30 a.m. from outside Post Office and drove first to St. Martin de Boscherville a fine old Norman Church but very much spoilt by the modern colouring inside.

We then drove by way of Duclair to Jumieges [@ 11 miles to W.]. The Abbey is a wonderful and picturesque ruin. We went all through and round it and some of us tried the underground passages. Lunch was taken in the open air in front of the Village inn and we enjoyed a very good omelette. After lunch we inspected the parish church and then drove borne.

Aug. 24 Work went on in hospital much the same as usual. I visited the wards daily.

Aug. 29 Change in Services through the rudeness of Padre Bird the Presbyterian Minister. I took the opportunity of giving up the United Evening Service on Sunday and had Evensong at 5.30 p.m. instead. The change proved a great success. This Sunday I had also to take the Service for Royal Flying Corp. Car called for me at 12 and drove me out about 14 miles to R.F.C. Workshops where I had an open air service. At prison in evening C.O. made a new rule no work during service time and extra time after for finishing sacks. This was the first Sunday on which the new Church Tent was used. By this time the Church was reverently furnished red altar cloth given by Miss Mark and worked by Miss Casserley tall rood screens behind altar - new credence table - mats given by Mrs. Whitehead. Also we hired an American organ instead of a piano and found it easier to sing to.

Sept. 3 Heavy rain but a busy day. 12.30 spoke to labourers at Mrs. Williams coffee stall in the docks, quite a crowd.4 o'clock saw off troop train.6 p.m. Evensong.7 p.m. Boy Scouts rally at Boys Brigade hut under Rev. Staveley, some French boys also there, 8 p.m. saw off another train.

Sept 1 Sports for all hospitals on race course - quite a success - 10 did quite well. I pulled in the Tug of

August / September 1916August / September 1915

St. Martin de Boscherville

War, we beat 12 Station after 3 tremendous pulls.

Sept. 5 Usual Sunday Services also a Confirmation Class on this and following days.

Sept. 6 Change in weather beautiful day - went with Danvere and Broadbent to tea at Bon Secours [@2 miles to S.E.]. Colonel Slayter announces his promotion - farewell party at night.

Sept. 7 Work runs on much the same - visits daily to the wardsSept. 8 Farewell walk with Turnbull also Danvers, Broadbent. Started 11 a.m.

tram to town and on down the river to terminus, walked to Canteleu fine old church with some really good modern glass, lunch at hotel, omelettes cider and bread and café au lait, then on road to S Martin de Bosherville about 1 mile turned left through forest, and so for about 7 or 8 miles all way thro forest till we arrived on Seine nearly opposite Robert the Devil's Castle, turned left to Val de la Haye [on W. bank of Seine, @ 6 miles S.W. of Rouen], just time for cider and caught boat back to Rouen.

Sept. 11 Visit from Deputy Chaplain General - Bishop Gwynne 8 a.m. H.C. address and intercessions breakfast and private interviews. In afternoon packed for and saw off at station Rev. W. Hogarth Turnbull my great friend, going to 27th DIV. In the evening 8.30 p.m. Service of welcome to D.C.G. in 27th DIV. Y.M.C.A. Hut.

Sept. 12 Still lovely weather a fair number at H.C. 7 a.m, other services an usual - could not attend combined parade for D.C.G. at 11, nor Confirmation at 7 p.m. as my own services on.

Sept. 13 ff Hospital work as usual, also seeing off reinforcement, trains. More Chaplains sent up. Turnbull leaves for 81st Field Amb., also Broadbent & Blackburn.

Sept. 22 Ordered to join 12th Field Ambulance 4th Division.

Departs Rouen for front line

Sept. 23 Left Rouen 7.45 p.m. - very slow and tedious journey arrived at Abbeville [lies N.W. of Amiens] 3.30 a.m. on siding till morning, helped some sisters in next compartment by getting them hot water etc. train due to leave for Douillens [20 miles E. of Abbeville]. 8.45 a.m, - left finally at 1.45 a.m., arrived at railhead Acheux [15 miles N.E. from Amiens – the Somme] 9.30 p.m., and walked to Forceville [1 ½ miles to S.E.] and reported arrival to C.O. Billeted in local curé's house, I am in small downstairs room - borrowed stretcher to sleep on and next day fetched kit from station.

Saturday 25 Walked round with Rev. Holme - United Board man reported to C.O. at Acheux, and in morning to my own senior King. Pouring rain.

Sunday 26th 8a.m. H.C. in village schoolroom C.O. present. 9 a.m. parade service for ambulance in an ancient barn. 10 a.m. parade service for Royal Irish in a field. 3 O'clock parade service for 5th entrenching battalion in orchard behind their billet. 5 p.m. parade service for another entrenching battalion at Varennes [1 1/2 miles to S of Forceville] rode over on horseback - weather better. - guns and aeroplanes busy tremendous rumours in the air.

Bishop Gwynne

Mailly Maillet

September 1915

Monday 27th Rode over to see Major King Senior Chaplain, quite a nice horse allotted to me.

Tuesday 28th First visit to trenches. Rode out with Lieut Chene - Sanitary Officer through Hédauville [1½ miles S. of Forceville] to Mailly Maillet [3 miles to NE] where we left motor lorry. Then on to Auchonvillers, visited our advance dressing station. This village a wreck. Here we entered the communication trench 2nd Avenue and go down to the front line. Through this we (I and Rev. Holmes - United Board man) went for about 9 miles most interesting walk but quiet only our own shells and snipers on each side. We gave away cigarettes and writing paper and talked to men and at 2 points had short services. We left trenches by a trench which brought us into the ruined village of Harmel [2 miles to SE of Auchenvilliers] where we had lunch. Then on by long narrow communication trench to Mesnil [1 mile to SW] another ruined village on top of a big hill, from the ruined chateau one could see the German trenches stretched out below. From here we walked to Martinsart and picked up lorry and so home. News of big Allied advance and successes.

Wed. 29th Walked to Léalvillers [¾ mile to SW of Acheux] to see rest camp back through Acheux. In the evening service in schoolroom. Saw again Page whom I baptised at Rouen.

Thursday 30th At 8 a.m. saw a most interesting sight, a fight between English and German aeroplanes. German first shelled by our anti aircraft guns then chased by one of our aeroplanes, both fired at each other with machine guns and German was hit, the machine fell near Hedauville and both airmen were killed. I walked over after breakfast and saw the remains and talked to our two men, Capt. Reece and Flight Sergeant Hargreaves.

Visited hospital as usual.

Oct. 1st Buried the two Germans in Forceville Cemetery.

Rode to Acheux to field cashier at 5 p.m. buried Pte. Jones of Royal Irish.

Oct. 2 Weekly meeting of Chaplains at Bertrancourt. [2 miles to NE of Acheux]

Oct. 3 Celebration of Holy Communion in Village Sunday schoolroom at 8 a.m., parade for ambulance in barn at 9 a.m., parade for Kings Own, 127

Column, 128 Waggon line Howitzer, 12th Brigade transport at 10 a.m. in a field,3 p.m. service for entrenching battal. in orchard, 5 p.m. entrenching batts at Verennes, 6 p.m. service for our own unit in school room.

Had arranged parade for Monmouths but it had to be postponed on account of inspection.

Oct 5 Horse at 11 a.m. rode to Acheux about a servant, then on to Varennes to try and arrange service for Monmouths. On to Mailly Maillet to lunch with Williamson C. of E. Chaplain of 12th Brigade, walked on to Auchonvillers called at Dressing Station and then went on to inspect the ruined village - church etc., a pathetic but well kept little cemetery for British and French soldiers, rode home in pouring rain.

Oct 6th Walked after lunch to Mesnol dressing station with Lieut. Dwyer R.A.M.C. through Englebelmer [2 ½ miles E. of Forceville] At 6 p.m. Voluntary service in schoolroom.

Oct 7th Rode after lunch with Padre Holmes to Albert, the town was a most sad sight, in some parts as badly destroyed as Ypres. Bought some postcards at a little shop the only one open in a ruined

Forceville Cemetery

September / October 1915

street, and had tea at the only hotel still open. The most notable sight was the great bronze image of the Virgin and child still hanging from the top & of the church tower although the tower was half shot away, (remember also the hardware shop).

Oct 8 Walked with Dwyer after lunch to Auchonvillers, quite a lot of strafing going on from our own guns and the others and the machine guns.

Oct 10 Celebration at 7 a.m. and 8 a.m. in schoolroom. Parade for Ambulance at 9 in "Hippodrome", at Varennes at 10.30 a.m. for Royal lrish Fusiliers. 3 p.m. for entrenching battalion, Kings Own Transport, and other small units in Hippodrome, 5 p.m. Verennes for L.B.R.E. 6 p.m. Voluntary Service in schoolroom, tackled afterwards by a boy suffering from religious mania who objected to my teaching on salvation and the final perseverance of the saints.

Oct 13 Rode in motor with Capt. Gray to Amiens, we were very interested in the cathedral, the interior carving was very grand, the outside was rather spoilt by the piles of sandbags.

Oct. 14 Very foggy but mild - held a service for Labour R.E. at Varennes at 7 p.m. Still quiet on our bit of front only an occasional wounded man brought in.

16th Saturday Lunch with officers of Royal Irish Fusiliers in their trenches, an excellent lunch. I spent afternoon in the front line trenches, at one point within 30 yards in the Redan had a periscope shot away quite near me, climbed down and crawled through a sap to a mine crater within 15 yards of the Germans a notice board contained “Watch & Pray”. Later had tea with another lot of officers and so home.

Sunday A very busy and happy day - Celebrations at 7 a.m. and 8 a.m. Parade for Ambulance at 9 a.m., Parade for Essex and 7 other units in field at 10 a.m., Parade for S Lancs at Varennes at 11 a.m. and celebration after when C.O. and a good number of officers and men were present. 3 p.m. service for L.B.R.E. also at Varennes and 6 p.m. Voluntary Service for Ambulance and Village with a crowded congregation. On my return at 8 p.m. found orders to proceed 22nd Division on Monday.

Monday 18th Motored through Corbie to Guillancourt H.Q. of 22nd and was attached to Divisional Ammunition at Hangard - a tiny little village, mess consisted of Colonel Bittlestone, an Adjutant, a medical officer and French interpreter.

Tuesday Rode to H.Q. through Marcelclave, Aubercourt, Wrennecourt and was informed of my district - my care was to be the charge of all Divisional troops scattered over a large area between Hangard and the actual batteries 15 miles away.

Wednesday Rode round to different centres - quite a nice horse a dark cob. At Hangard about 500 of D.A.C. and about same number of horses and mules, at Wrennecourt a Field Ambulance.

Thursday Rode to H.Q. to arrange Sunday Services, but found everything uncertain - hurried home - troops and artillery all on move.

Friday & Saturday - Oct. 22, 23Beautiful weather - pretty country - more hilly and wooded - saw good many French soldiers and artillery on the move.

October 1915

Albert Church and Golden Virgin

Saturday - Rode over to neighbouring village to report to Rev. Pelly Senior Chaplain At S.W.B. Billeted for these days in house of a H, Lambert a coal dealer nice old couple.

Sunday Everything uncertain - all units on move - so Oct. 25 only one Church Parade for D.A.C. and

100th Brigade P.F.A., quite a large number on parade, I took the service from a waggon, Colonel Bittlestone read the lesson. In afternoon rode over to Corbie to call on 3 nurses at 28 Casualty Clearing Station, passed through Villers Brettonaux, where H.Q. were on this date, met young. Mills of Newton Abbot of S.W.B. in the street.

Wednesday All the Column removed at short notice to make room for French troops to the little villages of Cachy & Gentelles. H.Q. were billeted in large house belonging to A. Jouancoux - Depute de la Somme. His wife - very nice but a great talker - managed his wine business while he was away at Paris. I slept in a small empty house near.

Thursday and following days:Rode round to neighbouring villages and on Saturday arranged services

Sunday Oct. 31Church parade at Gentelles at 8 a.m. - cold morning. Rode in rain to Villers Bretoneux, I had parade for 100th Brigade in a large hall. Parade at Fouilloy [3 miles S. of Corbie, 3 miles N. of Villers Bretoneux] fell through on account of rain but I had a certain number of 98th in a small concert hall. Rode back to Cachy for lunch and walked afterwards to Villers and had a service for 99th in a large barn adjoining the Chateau.

The whole of this week we lived in uncertainty not knowing where we should be tomorrow.

Nov. 1 Walked into Villers Bretoneux - being All Saints Day all the people were going to the Cemetery. I also went and visited a large grave where about 100 French soldiers were buried , which was decorated with flowers and flags.

Nov. 2 & 3 Rough wet weather but we had a good roof over us. The district around appears good farming country growing corn and beetroot.

Nov. 5 Moved with Headquarters to Villers Bretoneux the house in which we were billeted was a large one and actually contained a bathroom - signed passes all evening. Bennett (my batman) paid up to this date.

Nov. 6 Journey to MarseillesLeft for Longeau near Amiens at 9 a.m. and entrained there at 1.25. A long journey via Paris outskirts, Melun, Montereau, Dijon, Macon, Lyon, Pierrelatte, Arles, Marseille - arriving there at 10 a.m. on Monday 8th. Detraining took a long time and I did not arrive with No. 1 Section at Camp of La Valentine till nearly 5 p.m., camp was about 9 kilometres outside the town, and in a most picturesque spot. Our tents were Indian ones. Weather lovely and warm, bright sunshine.

Corbie

Chateau Villers Bretoneaux

October / November 1915

During the week I visited the different parts of Marseilles, and found it a most interesting city. Amongst other places I saw the Cathedral and the Pilgrimage Church of Notre Dame de la Garde. The rest of my men were encamped on the American Park (Camp Exposition) and Camp Borelly near the sea.

Nov. 14 Church parade for my own men at 9.15 drove in Sunday motor to Camp Borelly for service at 10.30 a.m.

on terrace of a large chateau near the sea. Caught tram and hold service at 11.30 a.m. for a Brigade and a half, and half Ammunition Column in American Park and at 12.15 took the rest. Lunch with Colonel Washington and Officers. In the evening I went to the English Church and heard what the resident Chaplain thought no doubt was an appropriate sermon for soldiers.

Nov. 16 Dined with Colonel Washington at his H.Q. (Café Royal) and spent night on a bed in Capt. Fraser's room.

Nov. 17 Celebration of Holy Communion in Staff Marquee in Exhibition grounds, amongst others A.J. Buckley (Driver B.99) - an old Leatherhead boy - was present. In the evening we had a small dinner at the local café in La Valentine - about 10.30 p.m. a Staff Officer arrived with special orders with regard to embarking.

Nov. 18 Brigade began to embark.

All this time we enjoyed beautiful weather, warm and sunny during the day but quite cold at nights one morning I found my tub in my tent frozen over.

Nov 19, 20 98th and 99th embark.

Nov. 21 100th ditto. Church parade at La Valentine [3 miles due E of Marseilles] for 2 sections of D.A.C. (No. 1 having embarked) and 120 men of RE. My service for 101st collapsed through non-arrival of a taxi.

Nov. 22 Met Major Eustace R.E. of Challacombe encamped in same camp.

Nov. 23 Left La Valentine and went on board S.S. Eloby - appointed Ships Adjutant.

Embarkation for Salonika

Nov. 24 Sailed at noon having on board 10 Officers, 175 men and 575 horses and mules and guns, wagons and ammunition - Major Leah R.F.A. 101 in command. The first day was smooth but afterwards we had a very rough passage, Saturday night and Sunday were particularly stormy and we had to leave our true course and turn head to wind. Monday the wind and sea moderated and we turned East. again and reached the Greek islands early on Tuesday morning. Amongst the islands the views were beautiful but the wind blew bitterly cold from the snow covered hills.

Dec. 1 Arrived at Salonica at 2 p.m. we were all quite pleased to get safely inside the not defences. For several days we lay at anchor in the bay waiting for room to unload.

SS Eloby

Marseille Notre Dame de la Garde

November / December 1915

Dec. 4 Went on shore and had a look at Salonica. The town was crowded with a curious throng of people. There were a great number of Greek soldiers about and as a whole they seemed friendly I walked through the streets, the side streets looked very picturesque but not very healthy for foreigners.

Amongst other things I saw the Arch of Alexander the Great. I had tea at a hotel on the front and then hired a boat and got back safely to the Eloby.

Dec. 5 Service on dock at 2.30p.m. quite a good congregation including the Ships officers and some black stokers.

Dec. 5 – 11 A not very interesting week laying in harbour. Unfortunately the whole time there was a thick mist which prevented our seeing anything of the shore or town. The ship ran short of bran and provisions so I spent several days going round to different ships and to the shore in a surf boat borrowing and drawing what I could.

Twice I went ashore but the town of Salonica was not particularly attractive. I was impressed by the largeness of the cobbles in the main street and by the curious kinds of animals the Greeks used for transport purposes.

Heard that we had a very narrow escape from submarines on way out. A French boat which left Marseilles an hour or two before us was torpedoed but the rough weather saved us.

Dec. 12 We received orders late on 11th to disembark early next day so I spent my 30th birthday hard at work superintending the disembarkation of the horses and wagons and guns on our ship. We landed all the horses and mules without losing a single animal. I sent my horse on by my groom and later in the day rode out in a motor lorry. The road was in a terrible condition and crowded with transport of every kind.

The Greek transport animals from our point of view looked very funny. The camp for our R.F.A. was on a very large plain some miles out on the Monastir Road. When the first Section of D.A.C. arrived It was covered with snow but luckily for the later arrivals there was a change in the weather and when we arrived all the snow had disappeared.

Arch of Alexander the Great

December 1915

Our mess tent was a large Marquee, I took over duties of Secretary with Lieut Rich, we made some tables and chairs from boxes and bought some cheap straw mats for the floor. I shared a bell tent with the doctor. The first day I spent digging a trench round it I also bought some straw mats to act as a foundation for my bed.

Dec 13 Quite mild weather but one days hard rain made the whole plain a swamp, the mud around and week our tents was very bad indeed but we managed to keep dry Inside. All my brigade were busy following getting their transport animals ready for mountain warfare. The great difficulty in our camp

was how to get fuel and water.

Dec. 17 D.A.C. transferred to Army to be used as transport company so I was transferred to 100th Brigade R.F.A.

Dec. 19 A celebration in Officers Mess of D.A.C., and parade later for D.A.C. and 98, the other brigades were all moving or doing fatigues. Transferred self and belongings to 100th shared tent with Lieut. Mac.

Dec. 22 Moved camp to a plateau just below village of Dautvali and at the foot of the pass through the mountains via Akbunah. It was hard work getting all the guns and wagons up the heavy track across country but by the evening we had managed to get our new camp in order and tents pitched.

Our 'mess' was a small hut of corrugated iron, which we floored with stone covered with sand. The members of H.Q. mess were Lt. Colonel Ward, Lt. Mac and Kerr, the doctor and Vet and self.

Dec. 23 I went with Lieut Brown and 4 horse limber wagon to Salonica to do our Christmas shopping. We found it very hard work, as everything had to be bargained for. We bought a live turkey, duck and fowl, charcoal and flour and currants and sultanas, oranges and nuts, so had quite a load to bring back.

Dec. 24 I spent a good part of day arranging Christmas Services

N.B. Vision in fog of Joseph and Mary and the Child.

Dec 25 Christmas Day.A celebration of the Holy Communion for the 100th at 6.45 a.m. in a bell tent, a ride to Akbunah for a Celebration in 98th Medical tent for 3 brigade, breakfast in doctors dug-out and parade at 10 a.m., they were late on parade so I had to gallop home in order to be in time for 11 o'clock parade of 100th.

The afternoon I spent with Lieut Mac and the Vet with a 2 horse limber wagon gathering small prickly shrub for a Christmas fire. Our Christmas dinner was a great success - sardines, soup, turkey (roasted in the sergeants field oven) plum pudding (the first attempt of our cook but quite good) and fruit.

Dec. 26 Up early and rode in to D.A.C. for a Christmas Celebration at 8 a.m. and parade later.

Dec. 27 Spent the day on horseback, called for doctor of 98th rode with him through the mountains and down a narrow and precipitous path to the H.Q. of 98th, then on to 99th in Daudli and back up the tremendous hill. We had our lunch of bully and cheese on the top and rode homewards. I stopped and had tea with 101st Capt. Robson.

Band of the 12th Battalion, Lancashire Fusiliers at Daudli, summer 1916.

December 1915

Dec. 28 A lovely warm sunny day. Mt. Olympus and the other distant mountains were all covered with snow but during this time it was only cold at nights or when the wind blew.

Dec. 29 Met Turnbull once again, now chaplain to 81st F.A., 27th Division - had lunch with him.

Dec. 30 German air-raid, one bomb dropped near our camp. I secured one piece an a souvenir.

1916Jan 2 Parade for 3 wagon lines 98, 99, 101 at Akbunah at 9.30 a.m. Hard and rough ride to H.Q. Of

98 and was there directed to batteries of 101 where I held service, then on to batteries of 99 (Captain Carurther of Totnes) lunch with Col. Washington of 98 and on to batteries of 98 for service.

Jan. 3 Rode out to H.Q. of 7SWB to see Pelly the Senior Chaplain, inspected with him the trenches - my position in case of general action to be Akbunah dressing station.

Jan. 4 Rode Into Salonica in "Cooks Cart" to do shopping for mess a very cold windy day.

Jan. 5 Visited outlying batteries.

Jan. 6 Tea at 4 Canadian Hospital with Miss Oatman.

Jan. 7 Another enemy air-raid. I had just left 98 wagon lines and was riding down to DAC at Lembet when the German came overhead and dropped two bombs, one on each side of the road - luckily for me they fell on soft ground and I was only covered with dust. A good many bombs were dropped but very little damage was done. One man Bomb. Ungar of B98 was killed. I buried him next morning at 10.30 a.m. in ground advised by Divisional H.Q. on north side of square topped hill or tumulus due south of Akbuna village. General Gay RFA was present and gave a short patriotic address.

Jan. 9 A busy day. Celebration here at 6.45 a.m., Sunday Divisional at 8 a.m., agreeably surprised by all the preparations made.

9.30 a.m. parade for 100th, 10.30 a.m. For 98, 99, 101 wagon lines, 11.15 for Divisional H.Q., General Gordon was present and spoke to me after. Then I had my usual mountain ride with lunch half way down the goat track and parades for 98 at 2 p.m. 101 at 3, and 99 at 4 p.m., so ending up 2 hours ride from home about 5 p.m.

Jan. 10 Rode out to see Pelly and saw also Basil Harris and Mills of Newton Abbot.

Jan. 12 Rode round Pirnah way in a very cold wind with Rev. McConnell Presbyterian Chaplain of 4 Canadian Hospital.

January 1916

Jan. 15 A blizzard - snowed all day.

Jan. 16 My usual Sunday programme had to be cancelled on account of the weather.Not much happened during this week.

Jan. 23 Celebrations at 6.45 for 100 and 8 for parade

9.30 for 100, 10.30 for 3 wagon lines, and afternoon at batteries.

Jan. 24 and week.Busy digging headquarters dug-outs - for battle position. 3 dug-outs, one for telephone instrum. and orderlies 12 x 6ft. and 7 foot deep, another 18 x 6 x 7 for living room and a smaller one 12 x 6 x 7 for officers sleeping quarters. All were on the reverse slope of a high ridge from which the whole front from the Matterhorn to Baldza could be observed.

Jan 30 First parade - for 100 at 9.30 for 3 wagon lines at 10.30 for General & H.Q. staff at 11.15 for Heavies (20 Heavy) at 12.15 and on to Carwithen 99 for 4 o'clock and so home about 7p.m.

No signs of “Bulgars” up to this time, the air was full of rumours and we were quite ready and eager to give them a hot reception.

Feb. 1 At 2.45 a.m. a Zeppelin passed over our camp on its way home. The noise awoke me but I did not see it. A large fire was caused in Salonica in a Greek warehouse but no military damage was done. Later in the day the French brought down almost undamaged a German aeroplane which was sent to investigate.

During this week I continued my work on the headquarters dugouts and also visited the outlying batteries. My pony “Taffy” recovered from lameness after a 10 days rest.

Feb. 2 DAC gymkhana.

Feb. 6 H.C. at 100th 6.45, D.H.Q. 8 a.m. Parade 100th 9.30, 3 wagon lines 10.30 D.H.Q. (General Gordon) 11.15, Heavies12.15 lunch with Colonel Pennython, 4 p.m. service for 99.D.

Feb. 7 & 8 Finished H.Q. dugouts and visited batteries.

Officers of H.Q. 100 Lieut. Colonel H. Ward D.S.O., Lieut. Kerr (adj.) and Lieut Mac, Vet Bundred and Doctor Fetten R.S.M. Mr. May (home North Curry).

During all this time I acted as Mess Secretary - not a very enviable position.

The weather was mild and fairly fine occasional showers.

Feb. 13 A fine day for Sunday after a stormy weekend. The usual services with lunch middle day at R.G.A. At bottom of Gorge Road as I had a little time to spare before 4 p.m. service I turned and rode into Village of Baldza - an interesting little village with narrow lanes between a jumbled mass of houses.

Feb. 12 Tea at 4th Canadian Hospital with Rev. McConnell and Miss Oatman

Venizelos St, Salonica

February 1916

Zeppelin

Feb. 13 On Sunday afternoon met a man in RE - Young of Netley Terrace, Newton Abbot who had worked for Bearne at Ambrook.

Feb. 14 Rode round with Veterinary Officer, called on Pelly and was nearly killed by a large stone from blasting at Wave Hill.

A large marquee was assigned to me at D.H.Q. for recreation tent and a p.b. man. Mr. Berry's notepaper and games came in very useful.

My horse was on sick list again this time with a sore place in the mouth so each day I had a different horse. Practically no day passed without my being in the saddle for several hours.

Feb. 15 Rode with Lieut Mac into Salonica and had a hot bath. We lunched in Venizelos St. and afterwards did some shopping.

Weather still very changeable.

Feb. 17 As hot as summer, next day snowing.German aeroplanes paid us frequent visits.

A number of crocuses - yellow and other colours in the hills. The inhabitants keep large herds of goats, a fair number of sheep and small donkeys. Most of the ploughing was done by oxen and water buffalo. There are also a lot of big and fierce dogs. The houses are low - stone walls and tiled roofs. Fuel consists of small prickly scrubs which grow freely on the hills, and also charcoal.

Feb. 20 Usual Sunday programme, in afternoon a half hour to spare so rode via Baldza quite an interesting, village in which the people appeared friendly, men, women and children saluted.

Nothing doing during the week.

Feb. 24 Rode down with Lieut. Riley of 101 and called at 4 Canadian.

Feb. 26 Rode with Lieut Burndred V.0. to look over the Veterinary hospital - a most interesting sight.

Weather still changeable, the temperature varied quickly and considerably and depended to a great extent on the Varda wind.

Feb. 27 Sunday as usual. Lunch with Col. Pennythorne of the Heavies, called on Mack in the dugouts and rode back with Father Heartley - a glorious spring day.

Feb. 28 Rode with Burndred through Baldza to Dreminglava. We spent several hours there. First we inspected the Church which contained (as usual) a good many rather crude pictures. Then we saw the village school. This was quite as "up-to-date" as many schools at home, usual school desks, blackboards upon which we were asked to write, sliding partitions between rooms.

We tried to buy some 'antiques' but found we were too late. I bought two local made head-dresses and some coins. We ate our lunch in a shop and washed it down with coffee given us by the owner. We saw a modern "oil engine" in one house of which the owner was very proud. Another man asked us to write

White Tower, Salonica

February 1916

S George Church, Salonica

something on his house, there was already the notice in English.

The country round here was more wooded, vines and figs and the people better class, the women and girls better looking. We rode back by the Dragon's Trail.

We had in mess a fine little puppy called Tino.

During previous week I walked up to Dautbali with Fettes and Burndred and looked at the church. I “routed” out the local priest and made him understand in my best Greek that I wished to see the Church. He came up and showed us round. Not a very interesting church. The local churchyard was not very well kept and human bones could be seen, drainpipes appeared as tomb-stones. Harvey doctor of 98 said that he was passing on one occasion and saw an opened grave and a number of women crooning round the exposed bones.

Feb. 22 Rode into Salonica with Lieut. Armitage A.D.C. in General’s car and did some shopping and saw damage done by Zeppelin.

Feb. 29 Rode with Father Heartley R.C. Chaplain 28 Hospital into town. Called on Knight Vice Consul British at further end of town going by tram and passing on way the enemy consulate guarded by Allied troops.

Lunch at a large restaurant near the White Tower. We then visited the ancient churches.

I) S George - said to be the oldest church in Europe, large circular building with seats all round - especially noteworthy were (a) the ancient frescoes, the oldest in the world, on the dome (b) the curious decorations of the arches round the church, the paintings are not at all sacred but birds and fishes and fruit. Outside the church is a stone marking the spot where S. Paul preached.

II S Panteleon (Merciful)A smaller but very ancient building.

III S Paraskene -Original dedication to Him who was made without hands - to the Turks it was known as the Great Friday Mosque and so renamed by the Greeks S Friday -This large and beautiful building was filled with a large number of very dirty Greek refugees (I was rushed by a crowd of youngsters asking for "penny Johnny").(a) Most beautiful capitals to the pillars.

III S Sophia Earlier than the more famous namesake of Constantinople -(a) the approach through a large courtyard with a very fine Turkish ablution tank is very beautiful. (b) Inside the peacefulness of this great church is especially noteworthy. There were decorations everywhere but all so "quiet". (c ) A picture said to have been painted by S Luke.

IV S Demetrius - another magnificent Church.(a) five aisles and beautiful marble pillars and capitals.(b) Frescoes.(c) tomb of the patron saint.

Outside each of these churches there stands the minaret erected by the Mohammedans. Since their restoration to Christianity very ugly and brightly painted screens have been added.

In S Sophia there still stands "the monument" erected by the Turks to show the direction of Mecca.

February 1916

S Demetrius

March 2 Some modern Greek lessons at Div. H.Q.

March 3 Dinner with 101. On way back did a certain amount of shopping for presents also bought some fish. (Note - remember local method of bargaining).

On road home met Hams of South Molton 10th Devons but all Cyclists.

Birds noted locallyeagle partridge pheasant kitechaffinch harrier duckcrows geese rocksstorks jackdaws hawksgoldfinches (many) snipe larksplover starlings magpies (often in flocks)sparrow

Animals etc.Wild hare Others goats small cattle

fox sheep '' poniesjackal, wolves donkeyssnakes oxentortoise water buffalolizards large dogs

March 1 Heavy rain.and 2 N.B. Remember local pipe system (a) of water and gardens (b) lack of trees.

During all this time work was going on regularly on the roads so that good roads were springing up everywhere - large numbers of local men and lads were employed for this purpose.

Spring flowers beginning to show in the hills.

March 9 Very wet day -Rode into Salonica to call on Principal Chaplain to ask whether "marriage by proxy" was possible (answer "No"). He was very nice and asked all about my work. I bought some good and cheap fish in the market and did some more shopping in the town.

Recreation tent at Div. H.Q. going strong, one night an Indian, a Greek policeman who could speak no English, a Greek soldier who spoke French in addition to a crowd of Tommies.

Modern Greek lectures at Div. H.Q.

March 12 Bishop Price of China who was spending weekend at Div. H.Q. helped me on this Sunday. He celebrated at 8 a.m. and preached at 11.15. My other services were as usual and in addition I started a Voluntary evensong in the Recreation Tent, this proved a great success and the singing of the hymns was particularly hearty.

March 13 Rode into Salonica with Doctor and his cart to fetch from M.F.O. some cases of gifts from Mr. Berry of Newcastle. He sent out £50 worth of goods but unfortunately half or more were destroyed by fire on board ship.

I took the doctor round some of the old churches. We had lunch at the Café de Rome and afterwards spent a most amusing hour bargaining for some pots and pans for the mess. We succeeded in getting what we wanted for almost half what was asked. The buying of fish in the fish market was even more entertaining.

March 14 Cologel and Gough and H.Q. staff moved up into the hills. The doctor (Fettes) and Burndred the V.0. Lieut. Budgett (H) of A batt. and self formed a nice quiet little mess.

Sports at 29 Hospital.

March 1916

March 15/16 Busy on horseback in the hills distributing cigarettes and sweets which I carried slung on my saddle in two nosebags.

March 17 Burndred was very keen on seeing the old churches of the town so I rode in with him. We left our horses in charge of his man Gray near the harbour. Our first visit was to St. George and back through the side streets exploring several old churches and mosques. After lunch we went to St. Demetrius and near there found a beautiful little garden with a fountain and a mosque and minaret. Some sweet little girls asked us in French to enter and some older people including an old Turk joined in the Invitation. We did not like to enter the mosque but looked in. They pressed us to ascend the minaret which we did. On coming down I asked all the youngsters to sign their names on a postcard, all were Turks except one little boy who was a Greek. We then distributed all our small change and left them after shaking hands all round.

We then walked up the steep hill and looked at the old walls. On the way down we saw the Church of the 12 Apostles full of Greek refugees and some mosques and so back to our horses and home.

During the night there was a Zepp raid. About 2.30 a.m. we heard some very heavy bombs bursting over the French camp on the Monastir road. Several French planes went up and the Zepp turned back without reaching us.

March 18 German aeroplane over the camp and a good deal of our own shrapnel fell around us.During all these weeks the only signs of the enemy was in the air. Their airmen paid us frequent visits but the French airmen seemed to have the mastery.

For the rest - we lived on rumours - where we were going or when we should return to France. The weather was getting warmer and what trees there were were beginning to come out into blossom and leaf.

March 14 Woke up at 11 p.m. to hear a burglar - chased him in my pyjamas armed with a telephone pole but missed him greatly to the amusement of the rest of the mess.

March 19 Celebrations for 100 at 6.45, D.H.Q. - 8 a.m. 100th - 9.30, Wagon lines 10.30, D.E.Q. 11.15. Heavies with D 101 12.15, Voluntary evensong in Recreation tent at D.H.Q. at 6.30 p.m. This service was again quite a success and we stopped there singing hymns for quite a long time. I did not arrive back at 100th until 8.30 p.m.

March 20 Rode into Salonica with Fetten and Burndred to have our photos taken. Lunch at Café de Rome. In the afternoon they went to cinema so I went round the churches once again. I spent some time in the beautiful church of St. Demetrius. The old priest gave me some flowers - wall-flowers and pansies from the garden because “St. Demetrius was a young officer and so was I”. Another priest performed some ceremony I thought churching or "reception into church" as I saw no signs of water. Mother and child remained for some time at West end of church while the priest recited some words. Then he took the child and walked up to the screen with it holding it high up and making the sign of the cross repeatedly with it. He took it to kiss some ikons then laid it on the ground from which the grandmother took it. He then gave a short address.

In St. Demetrius over the altar on the roof there are the large letters October 24 1912.

From St. Demetrius I went up the hill to the old city walls and saw several more of the old churches and mosques. The old town was very interesting. There are frequent fountains of water in the back streets, the streets were cobbled with no attempt at covered drains.

March 1916

Church of the 12 Apostles

Greetings = good morning = eveningand from children "penny Johnny”.

The children and laymen were friendly but the Greek officers were not at all friendly. Very few of the Greek soldiers that we saw about here were at all smart and the officers looked more like models from a tailors shop than “soldiers”.

March 21 Spent this day visiting batteries. Lunch with Col. Washington H.Q. 98 and tea with Taylor and Bittlestone at 98.

Our camp was changed during this week from South ofDautbali which was wet ground and so a potential mosquito and malaria bed to a higher and better site on a ridge of the hills west of Akbuna. Our own section moved on Friday. Luckily the Doctor was kind enough to lend his Maltese cart so we managed the move fairly comfortably. The ground in the new camp was covered with short prickly holly which took a lot of clearing. For a mess hut we erected a

March 26 Usual Sunday programme.

March 27 Woke up at 4.30 a.m. by sound of aircraft. About 10 enemy aeroplanes made a raid on the town. While it lasted it was quite exciting, many bombs were dropped and all our anti-aircraft guns were busy. They managed to drop one bomb on a store of 25 ton of blasting powder in French munition depot. There was a tremendous explosion, the mass of flame and smoke was most extraordinary.

I rode down later to see the damage and found all the ground round munition depot covered with trench grenades. Very little if any military damage was done but a lot of civilians were killed in the poor parts of the town (57). The priest of St. Demetruis (who called me "mon ami") told me he was sending his wife and family out into the country. He asked me to come to lunch one day. "dejeuner - café - cognac - cigaretta" with a motion of the hand for each. A Mohammedan "priest" also asked me to come and see his mosque. He insisted on my going in and he showed me the Koran and where he himself took the service. He gave me a rose from his garden.Later I saw a funeral of one of the native men killed in the poor part of the town that morning. We heard in the evening that the French had brought down 4 of the enemy aeroplanes up country.

April 3 Started a garden and planted beans, onions, spinach, lettuce, radish, mustard and cress. Several packets I bought from Turks who knew no English or French so I had no idea what I was buying (also cabbage and tomato plants).

April 2 A wet Sunday which rather upset programme.

During week weather continued warm and quantities of small but pretty flowers began to appear. But we all missed "trees".

April 6 Tea at 4 Canadian Hosp. Miss Oatman better after "appendicitis".

Note - curious customs - in Dautbali Village churchyard on certain occasions the bones were dug up from the graves and cleaned. A soldier told me he had seen this at Mudros also.

One Sunday morning I saw an old woman come out of the church with a lighted taper and go to a grave. She removed the outer of two drain-pipes used as tomb-stones and put the lighted taper inside the inner one and replaced the outer one. Galiko River Bridge

March / April 1916

Many of the children in these villages were marked on their fore-heads with a cross. And in the town many houses were marked in the same way.

April 9 Usual Sunday services - In morning at one service I used a wet canteen with a beer barrel for my pulpit.

During week visited wagon lines and batteries as usual.

Also most days the White House at Akbuna. There were a lot of nice little kiddies in the houses behind the dressing station. I gave them sweets most days and one day an old woman gave me an egg as "my baksheesh”. I also gave then a snapshot of themselves with which they were delighted.

Innoculation against Cholera.

April 12 4 days trek under war conditions. 100 RFA and one infantry brigade. We left early Wednesday and camped for the day at Arbankoi on Galiko river. We only carried one blanket and one macintosh sheet each and no bivouacs. But with my British warm on my saddle and my artillery cape I managed to keep quite warn at nights. The days were hot and nights cold. We fed on bully and biscuit. Thursday we crossed the mountains and camped for the night in an Ideal spot near a stream and near real trees - heard the cuckoo here. Friday we began to retreat. Colonel __ asked me to take charge of transport of brigade. I got them through successfully although the doctors cart upset twice and broke a shaft. We camped near the river and in the shade of Giliraltan. My bed was in a ploughed field. We were threatened with a thunderstorm but luckily it passed off. Saturday we continued our journey home. We had to pass through a deep gorge and along a narrow track in the side of the cliff with a deep drop to the river. one of our ammunition wagons slipped over in a dangerous place it was caught on a ledge and miraculously neither the men nor 6 horses were hurt. We had to let the infantry pass us. I saw Basil Harris and Mills. We arrived home about tea tine after a very enjoyable time.

April 16 Palm Sunday.Usual Sunday Services.

Wednesday Rode into Salonica with Capt. Wallace C98 to show him the churches. We spent some time sitting in the garden of a mosque with the old Turkish priest. He showed us the blood stains on the floor of the mosque where his father, mother and wife had been murdered by the Greeks. We both agreed that our respective races English and Turk were ____________ but the Greeks ____________. He gave us some flowers and accepted our cigarettes.

Good FridayService for 100th at 9.30 and at Div. H.Q. 11.15. General spoke to me after and said "I deserved well of everyone for my work in running a recreation marquee".

Easter DayH.C. for 100th etc. 6.45 a.m. '' Div. H.Q. 8 a.m. '' '' 11.45 a.m.There was quite good attendance at each of these services.Parade Services 9.30, 10.30, 11.15.At 1 o'clock I started off and after a 3 hours ride reached 98 camp at Yenikoi. A well attended service at 5 p.m.

Next morning I had a Celebration at 6.30 a.m. in a most picturesque spot. In the background was "Gibraltar" and at its feet the river - nearer were 3 tall trees and the ruins of an old house - a portion of this old ruin formed my altar. There was quite a good attendance.

After breakfast I rode down the river through the gorge and across the foothills to the Galiko which I followed up till I reached the camp of the Surrey Yeomanry and Cyclists. Here I held

April 1916

service at 11 a.m. and Celebration afterwards. After lunch I went with some of the officers and bathed in the Galiko and later rode home. One of the officers was a Mr. Horne son of a candidate for Barnstaple another Aston who hunts with D. & S. S.

Both these days were very hot. I travelled with all my goods and chattels. In front of my saddle I had my Burberry rolled and behind my macintosh sheet and blanket, in my water bucket I carried my cassock and in my feed bag hymn sheets, while in my haversack I carried my communion vessels.

April 25 Gave some sweets to children at Akbuna and an old lady gave me a coloured Easter egg in return.

April 26, 27 Very heavy rain - mud!

At Ambarkoj [or 'Ambarkeui'] the women were keeping festival. All were decked out in brightest colours, especially yellow, and dancing. Near here there was a storks nest.

Another visit to Salonica. The Easter decorations were curious - evergreens outside the doors but inside suspended in the middle of each arch were life size cardboard angels.

Another German aeroplane on view at the White Tower.

Doctor, Vet and Self invited Miss Findlay whom we met to have lunch with us. She was shortly rejoining army.

Sunday after EasterServices interfered with considerably by a General's inspection of lines.

Saturday An open air concert by 67th Field Ambulance in our camp - a great success.

May 4 Another Zeppelin raid - but this time the airship was brought down by British naval gun-fire and fell on the marshes at the mouth of the Vardar. The envelope was destroyed by fire, the crew were captured.

[Zeppelin LZ85 was damaged by fire from battleship HMS Agamemnon on May 5th]

May 6 Spent a good deal of the day in trying to get to the Zepp on horseback but failed. I rode for a long way across the delta and for some distance through thistles up to my shoulders, but at last came to marshes which beat me.

Heard later that the Adj. of 4th Canadian Hospital was drowned with his horse on the same quest. The day was an extremely hot one.

May 7 Usual Sunday services. The 2 early celebrations were well attended. The evening service I changed to 7 p.m.

May 8 On account of RFA movements I was transferred on this day to 98 RFA so as to be in a more central place.

April / May 1916

Remains of LZ85 removed to White Tower

Camp of 2/20th Battalion, Ambarkoj

Apparently a fête day in Dautbali [Modern day Oreokastro.] In the morning there was a procession with bunches of flowers round the village and the priest with his people. In the afternoon there was dancing the young men dressed in their best danced slowly in a line hand-in-hand to the accompaniment of “music” from a bagpipes made apparently from"goat-skin", the young women and girls did the same equally sedately.

During all this time my recreation marquee did its work well. Various books and periodicals came in from Div. H.Q. and games and writing paper from Mr. Berry. The R.E. made tables and forms and noticeboards.

The different Regimental gardens now began to show something for the work put in earlier.

May 9 Joined 98 R.F.A. at H.Q. near Pirnah - Colonel Washington in command - spent night in Adjutant's dug-out, a weird hole in the ground with a 2 tier bunk.

May 10 Marched to Ambarkoi - bivouacs require a certain amount of ingenuity to pitch so as to be high enough and yet long enough.

May 11 Marched to a point just south of Kukush [modern day Kilkis – see map] . I just managed to pitch my “bivy” in time as we had a heavy thunderstorm with vivid lightning and a lot of rain.Both these days were tremendously hot.

May 12 Anniversary of joining as Chaplain.

Marched to a point north of Kukush and camped in a pretty spot near the river Spank - to the north lay the boundary mountains.

May 13 Rode into Kukush to shop for Mess.

May 14 Holy Communion for 98th 6.30 a.m. Parade for 98th 8.30, for Div. H.Q. 9.30 for 101 and 99th Columns 10.30 a.m.

May 15-16 Reconnoitring expeditions with the Colonel. Passed through village of Irikli which was absolutely destroyed and had not a single living inhabitant. From the top of the hills we had a fine view of Lake Doiran a beautiful lake at the foot of precipitous hills.

The country south east of the Lake and behind the foothills was much prettier, the villages not so much destroyed. There were actually trees (oaks) beautiful pasture and fine crops.

During this week the weather was very unsettled. We had tremendous rainstorms and frequent thunderstorms. One night I slept in a regular pool of water.

May 17 Rode into Kukush shopping and bought eggs - 4 for 1 drachma lettuce, leeks, beans and some other things at E.F.C.

May 18 Enemy took advantage of a moonlight night to bombard us from aircraft. They dropped a good many bombs but did absolutely no damage.

The French for military reasons had to clear certain villages in the danger zone. The inhabitants camped just outside Kukush. They looked a much better lot than the average Greek. Our men fed them on bully and biscuit.

May 19 Visited the Church of S. George on the top of Kukush hill. It was of no particular

May / June 1916

Kilindir Railway Station

interest. Rainstorms very local but extremely hard and frequent thunderstorms.

May 21 Holy Communion Div. H.Q. at 7.30 a.m., Matins for Borders at 8.30, for Div. H.Q. 9.30, at D. batt. for five units at 11. A busy morning owing to distances to be covered in short times.

May 22 Weather cleared up and became warm again. Scouting aeroplanes busy.

A wonderful country for wild flowers. Remember the number of battle cemeteries in this country and the fields of large white poppies. Bulgarian deserters coming in most days.

During week visited batteries.

A very heavy bombardment one evening. Interesting to watch the shelling of a train which was not hit. Hursova and Kilindir. Irikli village near us was a sad sight totally destroyed in last war. The graves in the churchyard were overturned and skulls and bones laying all over the place.

3 Torquay boys in R.E. Cann coachbuilder, Ford an ex-choirboy of St. Lukes from Cockington.

May 28 H.C. 98 H.Q. at 7 a.m. Service for Boarders 8.30 a.m., and batteries at 9.30, 10.15, 11.

Very hot weather and a plague of flies.

Nothing much of interest during week. I rode into Sarigol with cooks cart shopping for mess and to get a few things to sell again to the men, at the E.F.C.

June 4 H.C. at 98 H.Q. at 7.15 a.m. Service for batteries at 9.30, 10.15, and ll., Borders at 8.30 a.m.After 11 a.m. service I had a late celebration in the open. 7 p.m. service for another battery, dinner with Wallace and a walk home across country in the dark.

June 5 Chaplains meeting at Janes. The church here was not destroyed. Pelly persuaded sappers to clean up churchyard. He held services there on Sundays. In this village there is a spring of mineral water.

Kilkis area today

June 1916

June 6 Rode over to Spank to get my post and on way back passed thro' Seremli. There were lots of storks nests here - some on top of chimneys, others on trees. Peasants busy harvesting in primitive fashion, oats and barley.

About this time I received additional chaplain - Rev. Armour, Vicar of Berkeley Gloucester. I gave him the Spank district and Div. H.Q. Other Chaplains in district were C. of E. - Pelly, Ram, Officer, Duval, Foster; Wesleyan. Maurice, Bold; Presbyterian, Gibb.

Friday Quiet day in Janes Church. Pelly took the addresses. I celebrated at 8 a.m. on the old stone altar. Addresses at 9.30 Matins, and 12 Litany, 3 p.m. evensong. The rule of silence all day. The Church was delightfully cool although it was very hot outside.

The Church is an old stone one with a broad verandah round. There is a screen reaching to the roof and filled with pictures which can be removed - the whole surmounted by a large cross. The roof is covered with crude paintings of bible subjects . The colours are good and the paintings not grotesque. No seats in the church but rests for the arms. In the vestry is a large box with a Vestment and Skeleton.

Sunday 11 Holy Communion 7 a.m. services at 8.am., 8.45, 9.45, 10.45, 6 p.m. (A.S.C.) 7 p.m. A very hot day.

June 12 Rode over to Janesh and received orders about Memorial Service for Kitchener from Senior Chaplain, and in evening rode with my boy via Seremli, and Spank river to Sarakol where we slept out the night. The morning light revealed that we had chosen an ancient burial ground.

June 13 At 6.30 a.m. there was a large memorial service at which brigade and battery Commanders and representative parties of officers and men were present. I first explained the reason of the service and then followed the usual form of Burial Service with the prayer for Committal at Sea. After breakfast I walked down to the river passing on way a little cheese factory where the owners were very pleasant and insisted on my accepting a square of cheese without payment. I then walked over to Sarakoi and back to B.98 for lunch.

Nothing of much importance during week except the heat and the flies. The enemy guns were busy but could not reach us. They tried another air-raid on a lovely bright moonlight night but with no success, some bombs though dropped quite near enough.

June 18 For reasons (stated later) a slack Sunday, but a very hot day. Holy Communion here 7.15a.m., service for A99, A98 at 8 a.m., for D98 etc, at 9.30, for A101 at 10.30 a.m. and for C98 at 7 p.m.

June 20 Once again on the move this time southward - left camp about 7.30 p.m. with advance guard and rode through Kukush to a camp on banks of Galiko, a particularly hot day next day.

June 21 Marched on again in evening to Kamara.In this district harvesting was in full swing. Whole families worked. They had small tents in the fields and special harvesting costumes, blue overalls and broad brimmed straw hats. The cutting was done with sickles. The carrying by ponies and donkeys. In the villages were threshing floors. In Karmara a large "floor" upon which was spread the corn, two small sleighs with a boy sitting on them were drawn round and round. In Yenikoi I saw the next stage with large wooden forks and shovels the straw was thrown into the air leaving the corn.

June 27 Rode into Akbunar to see Pelly and back through Yenikoi up a very narrow steep gorge to the top of the south road and so home.

June / July 1916

A camp at Yenikoi

N.B. Heard an explanation of numerous fountains - that they were built by Turks in expiation of crime.

July 2 Sunday - Spent night with Major Leah - Celebration 7 a.m., parade with D.A.C. at d.30 a.m. too hot really for open air service. 10 a.m. A battery under a tarpaulin. Rode home with Bennett through a great heat and a beautiful gorge passing a little shrine built over a source of a water supply.

Service at 7 p.m. in Kamara Church by permission of the Major. It was a tiny little building but was properly appointed and was clean and cool.

A very hot spell of weather. A certain number of officers and men were knocked over by the heat but often through carelessness. Found necessary to order men to wear their hats in bivies.

A number of large grass fires in the district.

July 9 Sunday - A parade for 98 at 7.30 a.m. ante-communion and a Celebration immediately after. This was a new attempt and proved successful as a good many officers and men remained for the Celebration.

Left camp at 2 p.m. and rode in to 101 via Akbuna a tremendously hot day, the sun affected my groom who was ill on the way.

Voluntary evening services at 101, spent night with C101. Rode into Salonica early Monday and put up at the Splendide Hotel on the front. It was very hot - temperatures running 110 in the shade and more. In the evening I dined at "The White Tower", spent Tuesday shopping. Bennett brought in borrowed (101) horses at 5 p.m., we rode out to 101, changed horses and rested an hour and arrived home eventually about 11 p.m. On the Monday I called on Dowding the Chaplain in Chief of Salonica army.

Wednesday Rev. Armour rode over to lunch (the Vicar of Berkeley near Gloucester). Flies galore!

July 16 Services for 101 - too hot for outdoor services so held separate services in the battery messes.A good deal of sickness in brigades near Akbuna - two men died in 100 and I buried them in Akbuna cemetery. Gunner Costella and Gunner Tremaine on July 14 and 16, both buried sane evening as death, Costella's funeral owing to difficulty in digging grave was not till 11 p.m. - luckily it was moonlight.

Helmets issued at last, sun's rays very powerful and temperature running up to 112 in shade and often over 100, a good many affected but I kept very fit.

Saturday Brigade sports at Kamara. We had quite a successful 3 days sports. We were rather far off for a 22 & 23, 24 large number of visitors but a good many rode over.

Sunday 23 Parade at 7.30. I arranged the Celebration of the Holy Communion in Kamara Church.

The arranging of sports meant once again “a move”. We started off once again on July 28. First nights camp at Salamanli. Just before starting on second afternoon there was a tremendous downpour of rain which caused the Galeko to rise very rapidly. We crossed successfully though a good deal of fun was caused, some of the mules taking the opportunity to rid themselves of their drivers.

Unfortunately for us officers, the water got into the limber which was carrying our valises so our blankets as well as ourselves were wet through. The darkness of the night and heavy state of track made travelling slow but we got into Galiko rest camp eventually. Next day again there were some heavy thunderstorms with torrential rain. We marched to Spank river and next day to flat-top hill.

August 4 Rode up to a ridge within a mile or two of Lake Doiran and looked down on the beautiful blue lake.

July / August 1916

August 5 Rode with Doctor (Martin of Glasgow) to Janesh. In the Church we found a child's funeral going on. The body was laid without a coffin on a table in the nave. The priest taking the service swung a censor the whole time. We remained for some time but there seemed to be no probability of ending so we left. During the service each person present knelt down twice then went forward and kissed the ikon on the breast and then the lips of the child - men first followed by the women.

Our camp at Flat-top hill was quite a comfortable one. H.Q. was situated on a small plateau some couple hundred feet above the horse-lines and road. The water supply was not good the river having run nearly dry.

August 9 At 5 a.m. the French bombardment of Bulgar lines commenced and we moved up next night. Our march up was attended with usual small calamities, first the Cook's cart was overturned and then the G.S. waggon stuck and had to be unloaded in a narrow space. Luckily the batteries travelled by a different road so were not held up by H.Q. Our new camp was near Gola in a delightful spot - a deep and narrow valley with a stream of good water and dense oak scrub. We were thus out of sight of the enemy and practically safe from shell-fire.

Artillery bombardment each day. The French took hill 227 above Doiran station without a casualty. The trenches and wire had been smashed to bits.

Each day I rode out with Major Bouchier reconnoitring.

Doiran is a beautiful lake - the town lies at east end and was spared as much an possible by us as it is a Serbian town.

Sunday 13 My altar was by the aide of a stream and under the shade of some oak bushes in a beautiful spot. In the evening I had Voluntary services for C & D batteries.

Weather still hot and dry but cooler at night.

Blackberries now becoming ripe. We had a good many stewed with apples bought in Kukush which quite reminded one of home. Nearly shot a hare with my revolver.

17th Each day and all day continuous heavy bombardment by guns of all sizes.

French attacked “The Tortoise” and “The Little Crown” at 6.30 a.m., infantry advance preceded by tremendous bombardment - whole line of hills one mass of bursting shells. French infantry advanced under cover of the smoke and took The Tortoise without losing many men.

18th Started at 5 a.m with Major Bouchier and rode through some picturesque scenery up and down tremendous hills and along some precipitous roads to a deep ravine where we left the horses.

The others went off reconnoitring- I went up a steep hill to Major Leah's battery where I spent some hours with the men, while there we had two eight inch “crump”over but no one was hurt in the battery. On way home we passed through a village - ruined like all those in this neighbourhood - where there was a very large tree in the shadow of which was a reservoir for bathing, a large number of men were sitting, in the shade and bathing, near was a fountain of splendid cold water.

Saturday Left our very comfortable and pretty camp and marched to a camp near the river beyond 19th Yenikoi. Our baggage waggons were lost no we had to lie down how we best could.

20th Moved on again, before we left there was a bad sandstorm. We started about 5.45 p.m. and marched along a very dusty road to South of Gugunci then up some bad hills and up and down

Gugunci. Watercolour by Colonel Bois

August 1916

sore precipitous ravines to Asagi Mahali. on the way several of our waggons stuck and the maltese cart overturned.

We got into Gokceli in the early hours of the morning. This village was like all those in the neighbourhood, in a state of ruin from previous wars but several houses still had a roof so we cleaned them up and made a “Mess”. Our bivies we pitched in the open as we were warned of sand fly fever. The surroundings of the village were very pretty-it was tucked into a little hollow high up in the hills. There were many fig trees, pomegranates, vines, plums and plenty of blackberries. The place was at times inclined to be unhealthy on account of shell fire. Most days shrapnel came over, 5-9 passed over pretty often, and an occasional 8 inch and 12 inch. One 8 inch fell within 12ft of our mess but no one was hurt.

Heavy counter attack by Bulgars repulsed.

Spent following days with Colonel Bouchier studying the country - Kidney - Horse Shoe and Tortoise - 535 and Grand Couronne etc. The whole countryside was fitted with shell holes of various sizes.

Tuesday & Another counter attack on Horse Shoe repelled by aid of our guns. We had a very noisy time for Wednesday an hour firing away on every side especially obtrusive was a French 75 which barked away night over our heads, the noise of this gun is particularly penetrating and car splitting. We had no

casualties in our batteries.

Tuesday Visited H.Q. of a French infantry. Set foot for first time in Serbia battalion with our Colonel afternoon in a warm corner and had coffee with the Commandant. He wished a wire laid out from his

H.Q. to ours. The Colonel asked me to do this and I was to have started at 3.30a.m. Wednesday but this was cancelled on account of the counter attack - rather lucky for me as the French said I could never have got there on account of the curtain of fire.

Wednesday Walked out with a message to French (found a dead Frenchman on way). On way back met morning Colonel and walked a long way with him looking for battery positions. On way home we got a

bad wetting from a thunder shower.

Separated for a time from my horse which had to be kept with the others at the waggon lines a long way back. It was not safe to keep horses up in our village which could only be approached by night.

Quiet day or two.

August 1916

(l to r) the hills La Tortue, Petit Couronne and Grand Couronne

Thursday Took Grant over to one of the batteries on his arrival at 10 p.m. and rode back on an ammunition limber, rather an eerie ride as some crumps landed near us.

Sunday Services for Borders at 9 a.m. R.N.F. and Div H.Q. and D battery at 10 a.m. This service was Aug. 27 close alongside Major Lear's guns under some trees. The celebration after this service I held in a

little ruined house adjoining one of his guns - which he used as an ammunition store and so was full of shells, over the fireplace was a large crescent so the former owner was probably a Mohammedan. After this service I held a service for some infantry and 2 batteries under a large fig tree. These services were all well within range but luckily we were not troubled though our own shells were whistling over our heads.

In the evening we left our pretty little village and marched down over the precipitous track to waggon line at Malovki - spent the next day and night there and then marched on Tuesday night to Mialovo. This was not an attractive spot - an absolutely barren plain with hardly a blade of grass but within reach of Lake Ardzan.

August 31 Marched through Kalinovo and Causica to near Lake A. where we established ourselves in some French dug-outs which the doctor and myself cleaned out. Unfortunately orders came for us to move back again which we did that night along a tremendously dusty road.

Sept. 3 Rode over to Col. Arty across country and took service at 9 a.m. and back again for service for 98 & D.A.C.

Weather still very hot and dry except one evening when we had a dust storm followed by very high wind and rain and lightning. Our Mess and tents collapsed but my bivy stood firm. During all this time I kept very well but a number of officers and men could not stand the heat, malaria took a large number.

Sept. 4 Moved to near Galavanci.

Sept. 5 Rode into Janesh to EF canteen for Mess stores and on to Kukush a long ride on a very hot day I did a lot of shopping vegetables and fruit, honey and groceries etc. I had the cook's cart with me to bring back the stores (melons, quinces and apples).

Sept. 6 A parade for certain officers to receive decorations from French; Major Lear and 2 of his men received the Croix du Guerre for brilliant work in barrage fire near Doldzeli. The scene was a picturesque one, the long line of khaki with fixed bayonets, behind Lake Ardzan and in the distance the mountains of Gheygeli, while on the right the Bulgars were busily shelling.

After the parade I rode with Doctor McCorkie to the Lake Ardzan and had a fine swim, this we repeated each day.

Still very hot and still very many grass fires. Some camps were burnt out. Numbers of hawks and storks and other birds followed these fires. Several days I spent reconnoitring with Colonel.

Sept. 10th Armour ill - G.O.C. wired for me to take services. H.C. 7 a.m. Evensong 6 p.m.During day our H.Q. waggon line moved to old French dugouts; on way out my horse rolled with me in the river and I got drenched.

In the evening I walked out with ration waggon to H.Q. in ravine beyond Ardzan where we established ourselves in come old French dugouts.

Sept. 11th Spent day with Colonel in O.P. - fine secure deep dugouts.

In evening buried a man of B batt who was killed by a shell, grave on Reselli -Ardzan track. Fairly heavy bombardment all day.

September 1916

Soldiers swimming in Lake Ardzan

12th Busy week - this day start of preparatory bombardment.

13th Heavier bombardment.

14th Infantry assault at 1.30 a.m. we took Dorsal ridge and Miticulleuses, but infantry were shelled out during day. I spent most of these days and nights in the observation post from which we could see the whole battle. No shells came very near our O.P. but there were any amount of shells on both sides wandering about. Our batteries were lucky and had no casualties.

I did all kinds of small jobs for the Colonel, one of then was to keep the Colonel supplied in food both day and night.

The dug-outs in the ravine in which we lived were not very large, mine was a funny little hole infested by mice. There were also a lot of sand flies and mosquitoes. I slept out generally outside with my mosquito net. The effect at night of all the guns firing the flashes of the guns and the bursts was very fine. The enemy used their guns well.

Sept. 16 3 men of B battery wounded. I went over and had a lively time, I spent most of my time either laying on my stomach and trying to crawl under my tin hat or jumping into the nearest hole. The ground round the battery was like a pincushion - pitted with holes - most of them were 8 inch. The noise was great especially of the explosion and the holes in the ground very big. You could hear the shells coming all the way so had time to throw yourself down. I pulled Muns out of the signal pit and got him to his dug-out suffering from shell shock.

Sept. 17 Voluntary service for D battery near their guns and in the evening I walked to waggon lines and then rode to Div. H.Q. for service. This was the second Sunday running on which we had enemy aeroplanes overhead.

There were lots of partridges in the neighbourhood also of course mosquitoes and sandflies.

Weather a little cooler but still dry.

Sept. 18 Orders to move once again. Shifted during night to Causica [Chaushitsa] where we camped on the side of some fairly high hills. The nights were now becoming much cooler. Sickness amongst men and officers now not so bad; I kept quite well (thanks be) though we had a very trying time. One evening about 6.30 p.m. we had a rather unpleasant experience. First a terrific wind accompanied by dust, then tempestuous rain. My bivy was blown down and blankets and everything were drenched so we spent rather a rough night. However, I was no worse for it next day.

Sept. 24 Holy Communion Div H.Q. at 7 a.m. and Borders at mixed service for various units at 9.15 a.m., another at Oreovica at 11 a.m. and Evensong at Div. H.Q. at 6 p.m - a lovely September day. It was still warm by day but cooler at night.

September 1916

Army Service Corps supply column camp at Causica

British soldiers attending a church parade in a ravine near Oreovica

Sept. 25 Rode to Karasouli [modern Polykastro, marked the western end of the British front in Macedonia] with Hartnoll and on to the river Vardar.

During this week I had my first touch of sickness (stomach) but I a managed to pull myself together without becoming a hospital case.

Oct 1 Borders at 8.am., C & D waggon Sundaylines at 10 and A & B at 10.45a.m., Division

H.Q. at 6p.m. - a quiet Sunday because I was not quite fit.

Monday Rode over to Oreovica to meet S.C.F. 12 Corps at Pelly's place - when I arrived back found Russell sick and doctor sent him to hospital at once so following Col. Bouchier Major Lear came in D.R.Q. to command.

Both Colonel Bouchier and Russell went sick so Major Lear came in to command. I did what I could to help in the office and did as much of the Adjutants work as possible taking summaries of evidence etc.

I began digging in for the winter.SundayOct. 8 A strenuous day. Borders at 8, 98 B.A.C. with 101 B.A.C. and 101 H.Q. and 66 S.A. At 9.3O,

D101 a long way off at 10.45 a.m., A & B 98 in a picturesque spot at 11.30 a.m. Lunch with D & service for C & D at 4.30 p.m. and Evensong service for Div. H.Q. at 6 p.m.

Colonel Bouchier returned from hospital and Dr. McCorkie.

Weather still very hot during the day and flies etc. as bad as ever.

Nothing much doing on our front but daily trench raids and patrol work. Our guns were kept busy with barrage work and annoying enemy working parties.

Buried Capt. Lax in Oreovica churchyard a most picturesque spot.

Oct. 15 Div. H.Q. H.C. at 7 a.m. (left home at 6 a.m.) Borders at 8 a.m. 98 Column and 101 and waggon lines at 10, 98 H.Q. with 66 I.B. H.Q., Cheshire transport and 68 Field Ambulance A.D.S. at 11 a.m. - 98 D batt at 12 noon and Div. H.Q. at 5 p.m.

A quiet week as far an fighting went but we began to get busy digging in for winter. I discovered fragments of skull and bones and pottery in my little plot. As usual I spent most of my time riding round visiting my different units and on Friday I went to Field Cashier to draw money for the Brigade.

The rains started and very much so.

My servant Driver Bennett went sick with dysentery.

Oct. 22 A very wet Sunday. I rode through torrents of rain to Div. H.Q. for H.C. at 7 a.m. On my way back I had an exciting experience fording the Selimli stream which was coming down in flood. I had arranged a full programme but it had to be cancelled partly through weather and partly on account of a bombardment by our batteries.

Oct. 23 Went down to Salonica for 3 days leave, train from Karasouli to Dudlar. Put up at Hotel Continental. Met Turnbull down from the Struma. Wonderful change to get a proper bath and some decent food and see a few civilians. Called on Miss Oatman at 4 Canadian did a lot of shopping for Mess and various friends.

Oct. 28 In morning rode to Oreorca to meet Rev. Pelly Senior Chaplain.

October / November 1916

No.28 Casualty Clearing Station with Karasouli and River Vardar to rear

Then went up to the batteries to watch bombardment of a particular sector in preparation for trench raid. Two men in B wounded. Went on to infantry battalion HE.Q. with our Colonel whence I watched raid. Our men met with strong resistance. It was a fine sight at night to watch the flash of the guns and bursting shells and the numerous flares up and down the line.

Did not get back to camp till 2.30 a.m. and was up again at 5.30 a.m. for usual Sunday work.Weather still mild but getting more damp.

Nov. 4 Expedition with Doctor for material for dug-out.

Nov. 5 D.H.Q. H.C. 7.30, Borders etc. 9.am., 98 B.A.C. 10, A & B 11.30, C & D 12.30, Heavies 4, D.H.Q. 5.

Nov. 6 Busy on Mess and own dug-out. My own dug-out contained numerous human bones.

Nov. 7 An interesting excursion in search of fish, flesh and fowl. Rode to Dragomir but failed to get any eggs or Turkeys but I bought some very good fish from some fishermen - 1.50 an ochre (= 31bs) I brought home a bucket full of smaller fish and 4 large ones akin to pike slung on my saddle.

On way home I also picked an haversack full of mushrooms.

New servant Gunner Blackwell arrived.

Nov. 8 A raid with the Doctor and his maltese cart in search of material for our dug-out.

One of my weekly jobs was to go to the Field Cashier to draw money for the Brigade.

Nov. 12 H.C. Div. E.Q. 7.30, B waggon line at 10, D at 11, Morning Service Borders etc. at 99 D waggon line at 10.45, D guns at 12 (for C & D), Evensong for Heavies at 4, Div. H.Q. at 5.

A peculiar "straff" with Major L. who objected to a teaching sermon on the Being of God. "He did not care whether there were many gods or one" "He was not going to have his men taught dogma".

Weather still mild but damp.

Batteries on alert always to snipe, working parties or retaliate but otherwise quiet. Dug-out progressing - each building his own half!

Nov. 19 Div. H.Q. 7.30, Borders 9, 98 B.A.C. and waggon lines in B.A.C. dinging shed at 10, Div. E.Q. at 11.30, lunch with B98 and Service at 3 p.m., Heavies at 4 p.m.

Slept for first time in new dug-out and found it excellent.

Our interior size was about 15 feet wide by 10 feet long and plenty of head-room the windows were ammunition boxes also the cupboards. It was dug in the side of a little knoll which roseabruptly from the plain and was sheltered from the north and east. The roof was corrugated iron the timber was commandeered from certain ruined villages.

Bought 4 live Turkeys to keep till Christmas for our H.Q. Staff.Snow on distant hills but very mild where we were.

Nov. 26 The climax to a 3 days heavy bombardment of the Bosch line. I carried out my mornings work and in afternoon went round the batteries. Some of them had a very hot time of it especially where there was an ammunition explosion. Luckily only one man was killed in our forward wire-cutting batteries. I buried him at 8 p.m. Some infantry kindly dug the grave and also came to the funeral to form a congregation. It was a most impressive service the batteries firing away near us and over our heads the heavies, while the whole countryside was lit up by Bosch flares and search lights. The area we were in had been heavily shelled during the whole day so we did not tarry unnecessarily.

November 1916

There were lots of shells humming about all day but I was lucky enough to avoid them, though I practised "musical bumps" repeatedly (N.B. equipment tin hat, haversack - field dressings and emergency communion vessels).

Next day I held short thanksgiving services for two of our batteries. The first service was in a little ravine. The Bosch shells were whistling over us the whole time and falling about 50 yards further on on a ridge so I wore my tin hat during the whole service.

Nov. 28 Two more days leave in Salonica this time to make company for the Colonel and to buy stores.Visited H Gore (temp. adjutant) in 21st stationary hospital and found in next bed young angel Spicer so we had a great talk of mutual friends and places we both knew in N. Devon.

Dec. 3 A very wet Sunday so my services were cut down to indoor ones - H.C. at DIY. H.Q. at 7.45 a.m. and service at 98 Column at 10 a.m.

Rev. D.R. Polly Senior Chaplain of the Division went to live at Div. H.Q. so relieved me of that. I had been living one and half hours ride from Div. H.Q. so it meant a long and wet and dark ride on the winter mornings to get there in time for the early Celebration. But it was a great privilege to act as Chaplain to Div. H.Q. as most of the Staff Officers were Communicants.

Very wet weather and plenty of mud. Luckily my little dug-out kept out the rain and we even made a fire of old ammunition boxes.

As usual spent my week days walking round the batteries.

Dec. 10 A fine day after 10 days continuous rain. H.C. for heavies at 7.45 a.m. under a big tarpaulin.9 a.m. Borders with whom I breakfasted each Sunday morning.10 a.m. Service in Shell's dining hall for all my waggon lines.11 a.m. for D. & G. batteries.12 noon for heavies.Lunch with Capt. Housden and Voluntary afternoon service at 3 p.m. for his and adjoining men.

A flooded river in the middle of my parish added to ithe ordinary excitements of Sunday, but I crossed safely several times (Selimli ravine).

My new batman turned out to be a regular old soldier and was probably in private life a burglar but he made the inside of my dug-out most comfortable.

Tragedy! two of my turkeys killed by the collapse of their house, we ate one and gave the other to the R.S.M.

Dec. 12 My birthday - anniversary of landing in Salonica. A fine sunny day.

In my transport (infantry) lines I found some North Devon men so we had a great "tell" of places and people we both knew.

Nothing much doing at this time but my batteries were always busy. The Bosch occasionally woke up and then going round the batteries was quite exciting. One day they nearly got my groom and myself in Ardzan and many times I had to shelter at C. batt. (Taylor Dane Bittlestone Harries). They had here a most disgusting funk hole with a couple of feet of mud and water. I took cover one day in their mess but found it was not good enough when I got a "chunk" of

Ruined houses at Reselli

November / December 1916

shell thro' the corrugated Iron roof. On another occasion I took the Graves R man round and when I got to Reselli found he had been marked P.B. with shell shook and just as luck would have it we had quite a hot one for a while.

Dec. 23 Raids were carried out near Doiran so we feinted on the Nose.

Housdan's battery was rushed up to wire-cut. They were heavily shelled by 5.9 but were untouched. Spent some time at the battery and observation post and the walk home was over very rough ground and included a shrapnel barrage.

Dec. 24 Started Christmas Services. (H.C.) Borders, 101 Waggon lines, G. & D. 98 gun positions -Heard at D that Lieut. Lucas of C100 (late C101) had been killed so rode on to Smol. The road from Bagalca to Smol was the worst for mud I had ever ridden on. I buried him in British cemetery near Smol church - the C.R.A. and others were present.

Christmas Beautiful sunny but cold day; very busy for me but happy. Holy Communion at 66 small Day Arms Column at 7, 98th H.Q. at 8, B.A.C. at 10.30. Morning Service for 98th H.Q. at 9.15,

B.A.C. at l0, 66 S.A.A.C. at 11.15, B. & A. gun positions at 12.30.

The men at our H.Q. had their Xmas dinner middle day. We provided turkeys, oranges, nuts etc., and plum pudding arrived from a newspaper fund. Altogether they had a very good time. Our dinner was at 7.30 p.m. - Captain Shell and Doctor Becton were our guests. With the aid of Fortnum & Mason boxes and the different parcels we made quite a lordly feast. Capt. Housden, Ricketts, Trueter turned in after.

Dec. 26 A Celebration for C gun Position at 7.30 a.m. all the battery officers present in a strange little dug-out.

Dec. 28 Rode to Smol through Vardar wind, very cold but fine, Ghevgeli clear in the distance.

Doctor White inoculated me typhoid.

A fine box of Christmas good things arrived from home.

Our mess was pronounced very comfortable by all - a hole in side of hill about 16 x 12 and covered with corrugated iron the walls we covered with reed matting and decorated with Christmas numbers, only difficulty sweating of roof.

1917Jan. 1 New Year opened cold and dry. Doctor and I discovered some timber in some old French

dugouts up a narrow ravine. We fetched two loads home in his maltese cart. GeneralMontague Bates caught us red handed but luckily treated it as a joke.

On several occasions the enemy just now was rude enough to shell our H.Q., once he put one within a yard of a bell tent but luckily the owners were not at home.

Jan. 7 H.C. for 6 inch, service for waggon lines in Shell's Dining hall, ditto for 66 S.A.A.C. At D guns it was too wet to hold a service, but I held one at C in a dug-out. Major Preston new B.C. present. Second innoculation.

A quiet week - wild, usual spasmodic shelling.

January 1917

Trench at Reselli

Jan. 14 H.C. at A (late C) 98, 9.30 parade for 99 & H.C., 10.50 Small arms & 12 noon for A101.

15 Rode with Lieut Purdue of G.R.U. and Re. Whitcombe of 80 F.A. to Dragomir and bought some fish after great bargaining with the Mayor and .

N.B. Many officer interested in problem of future life, some offended with Christianity because they supposed that it taught in future life all the good would be angels with harps etc. craving for re-union.

POEM "Where two or three”

No grey towered village church is here, historic centuries old,with painted glass thro' which the sun streams violet, red and gold;with pillared nave and aisles that whisper sanctuary and calm.But just the ruined straw barn of a little ruined farm.

Without - around the littered yard black mud rolls ankle-high;An aeroplane in scorn of shrapnel hums across the sky;The crackle of machine guns down the line is never still;A battery is busy on the slope behind the hill.

Within - a strip of sacking hangs where once there hung a door;A score of weather-beaten men kneel humbly on the floor;'While spur on heel beneath his robes, the Padre bows his headBefore an up-turned box whereon a fair white cloth is spread.

Age, rough and rude the outward signs, makeshift maybe and yetTogether in His Holy Name these 2 or 3 are met,To ask his pardon for their sins, however great the sum,To seek his help and strength to show His death until He come.

And so One stands within their midst His promise to fulfil,Who knows how hard a road they tread since His was harder still;Who knows what dangers of the soul and body be ahead,Since worse were His, when for their sakes His precious blood was shed;

And nought He heeds their mud-stained clothes their place of worship mean,Because if only for an hour He sees their hearts are clean,And so He comes, His presence felt, to hear them when they call.And bless their sacrifice, Himself the Sacrifice for all.

From Country Life.

Jan. 16 and following days -My days were spent as usual in walking and riding round the waggon lines and gun positions. All the gunnery officers were extraordinary hospitable and always seemed glad to welcome a caller.

Jan. 17 99th held a gymkhana - the course was marked with shell-holes which suggested possibilities.

Jan. 19 Rode as usual to the Field-Cashier. On way back I came in for a most exciting time. The Bosch shelled our waggon lines heavily. Three men only were wounded. Corporal Butterworth R.A.M.C., Corporal Smith of B. battery helped me first-aid Driver Boxall of B.A.C. who had a broken thigh bone. We got him on to a piece of corrugated iron and after many halts to lie down and get as near to mother earth as we could we got him under cover. I recommended these two men to the Colonel and he thanked them.

In the evening we had a sing-song to let off steam.

January 1917

Jan. 21 A very rough day - rain, snow and wind - I had an early start for a Celebration at A battery at 8 a.m. in a big dug-out. My road out was nicely registered and neatly marked off withcrump-holes.

Morning service for A at 9.30, D postponed theirs as it was too cold for an out door service. At noon I held a service for 66th S.A.A.C. These short informal services seemed to be appreciated by the men.

Rooks and Jackdaws in this district live together in very large flocks - bigger than any I have seen elsewhere. Magpies too are in greater numbers than in England.

Jan. 25 Some snow following on a few very cold days. Our fire in the old oil drum in our dug-out was very much appreciated and we had frequent visitors in the evenings.

Jan. 28 S.A.A.C. at 9.15, B.A.C. etc. 10, D101 at 11, D98 at 12.30.

Guns on both sides busy all the morning. On way home on Taffy I made a most delightful find - some snowdrops. They were growing in a little ravine running into the Selinli not far from the Ardzan dressing station. I picked my handkerchief full but kept one eye on the Nose in case the Bosch thought I had picked enough. However, he did not worry me.

The next few days ware very cold followed by several days of continuous rain which flooded the whole countryside. I spent part of my time in distributing Mr. Berry's gift of cigarettes and sweets and cake.

(Remember "finish Johnny” & "Balkan News very good news”). Feb. 1 Another day of hard cold rain. The Bulgars who were on higher ground had it in form of snow.

The marshes near Ardzan lake were full of snipe and duck. On higher ground there were several hare and a brace of foxes.

A very rainy season.

Feb. 4 66 Small Arms Ammunition column service at 9.15 a.m. - my congregation sat round on ammunition and bomb boxes.10 a.m. at 98 B.A.C. for waggon lines.11.30 a.m. at B99 waggon line for 99 waggon lines.

Feb. 5 Lovely bright day - rode to Div. H.Q. to see Pelly, then on to Karasouli and Oreovrea took photos of church etc. and on to Smol - photos of Lucas grave and then home by Selimli ravine.

Feb. 8 Particularly cold and strong wind snow in the evening.

Feb. 9 Snow all day - rode to Karasouli to Field Cashier and drew 18 000 for different units. Wood for fire a serious problem - sacrificed the furniture by degrees.

Feb. 11 A fine Sunday. 9.15 Service at 66 S.A.A.C. for different units (including machine guns). 10 a.m. at 98 B.A.C. for 98 waggon lines. 11 a.m. - 101 waggon lines. 12 noon - D98 gun position.

S.S. Cameronia

January / February 1917

Dressing station, Salonika Front

Feb. 12 Our waggon lines shelled once again. I helped doctor with 2 men with compound fracture of thigh bone and commandeered C.R.E's car to take one to Aid Post. At lunch tine a Bosch plane dropped a bomb in B99 waggon line 2nd Lieut. Perston was killed and Major Orde M.C. seriously wounded; he died in 68 F.A. same evening. Cuthbert the doctor was seriously wounded but was evacuated safely. But Bomb. Watkins who was also severely wounded died in 28 C.C.S. I buried the 2 officers in Karasouli Military Cemetery on Feb. 13 - Watkins was buried by Chaplain of C.C.S. Later.

After funeral visited the Dentist at M.S.

At this time we had most days a very strong cold wind - frosts at night but not much snow.

Feb. 14 In afternoon rode over to Dragomir with Doctor White.N.B. - game with bivouac button - flipping into(1) hole and blowing out(2) system of ownership of lake.

Feb. 16 Photo of Lieut. Westbury 99 B.A.C. with Norah his cow.

Feb. 18 A slack Sunday - my men were all busy taking up ammunition for Monday- Service at 66 S.A.A.C. At 9.15, 98 B.A.C. at 10, and Holy Communion 10.30.

Feb. 19 A bombardment by us in preparation for a trench raid at night. The Bosch had a better ammunition allowance and threw a good deal of stuff about. 100 were put into D but none was touched. Recelli - where I spent most of the day - was as usual the warmest corner. A99 lost 3 men killed and 2 wounded. I buried them as best I could about midnight. Captain Duncan was present.

Return to England for leave

Feb. 22 Left camp for leave to England - held up in Salonica for 10 days, spent time at Continental Hotel. Two air-raids over the rest camps, the first did considerable damage.

March 8 Sailed for England in Cameronia with Padre Turnbull - via Crete and Malta. At Malta we spent a day on land. I went on land and saw the wonderful church of S John and the Chapel of Bones etc.

Arrived safely at Marseilles March 18.

The 2 Sundays on Board Turnbull and I had 2 Celebrations and morning service.

The journey across France was long and tedious as we did not arrive at Havre till Friday 10 p.m. - Considerable delay here and we did riot arrive at Southampton till early Monday morning.

Doiran, Vladaja, Cokceli,Bujuklu and Couronne

Feb / March 1917

PART II

“Sir Humphrey Gilbert” died 1584. Give me leave to live and die in this opinion that he is not worthy to live at all who for fear or danger of death shunneth his country's service and his own honour.

Date of homeward trip Left unit Feb. 22, left Salonique Mch. 8 1917 arrived Marseilles Mch 18, left M. Mch 21, train Mch 21, 22, 23 arrived England Mch 25.

Apr. 12 Reported at Waterloo. The end of my first leave since May 12 1915. Although it snowed every day I was in England I had a most delightful holiday. I spent the whole fortnight at home except last two days which I spent in Town. Barbara T was with us at Ipplepen. In London I saw Cuthburt and his wife and boy and Gresswell George (Guards).

Apr. 14 Left Havre.

Apr. 16 Arrived in Marseilles.

Apr. 22 Left Mars. Messina 25-26.

Apr. 29 Arrived at Salonica once again.

Our journey was an adventurous one but we saw no submarines. We spent 2 days in Messina. I went on shore and saw the ruins. Turnbull, Spence & myself held services while on board. One S. evening we had an alarm just as we were starting, service. Heard Cameronia my homeward boat sunk. [Sunk 15 April 1917 by German U-boat en route from Marseille to Alexandria]

Apr. 30 Tea with Major Redway at Olympus.

May 1 Rejoined my unit via Summer Hill Dudlar & Causica. Left H.Q. for a time as their fighting H.Q. were very congested and joined A batt. - Major Preston, Capt. Taylor - Lieut. Bane, Bittlestone, Harris & Dr. White. My abode for a time was in village mosque of Bujuklu.

Already weather very hot but country still green & bright. Quite a number of flowers; yellow tea roses - lilac - poppies - iris and many others, with vines, mulberry - cherry - fig - plum - peach and other trees.

My new home was apt to be exciting as the Bosch favoured us with shells, some of them gas. This was a time of very stiff fighting in which our divisional R.F.A. did extraordinarily well, also our infantry.

Directly I got back I started work and arranged services and H.C. for as many batteries s possible and visited all in turn.

May 3 D98 6.30 p.m., 4 B.D99 6 p.m. - 7.30 p.m., 5 A98 7.30 p.m.

Sunday H.C. A98 7a.m.g 67FA 8 a.m. A99 9.30 a.m., B101 - 10.30a.m. B98 6.30 p.m. May 6 67 Machine G 7.30 p.m.

Monday H.C. B99 7 a.m. D99 8 a.m.May 7 Visited all batteries in turn and walked round trenches to La Tortue with Hartnoll to learn the

new sector. On way back wet herring and had an adventurous walk with him past one of our batteries which was being heavily bombarded. A dump was exploded as we passed but did not hurt us.

All the guns on both sides very busy. On several occasions we had "Gas Alerts".

April / May 1917

May 10 Evening Service in our bedroom mosque all lit up with candles for A98.

May 13 H.C. in Bujuklu, for A98, A99, B98 and Heavies at 7.30 a.m., matins 9.30 A99, 10.30 B99.Evensong 5.15 J99, 6 p.m. A100, 7 p.m. D98.

May 14 6 p.m. B98.

Weather changeable - thunderstorms and showers.

Concert for A batt - Bosch quieter but one morning put a few over us when in bed. We were waiting with a certain amount of interest to see whether he would drop 200 but luckily he did not.

At this time I did a lot of walking as it was not possible to ride. It was hot work carrying the regulation load - tin hat and box respirator.

May 17 A long hot walk all day to the furthest batteries on the left.

This is the prettiest time of year in the Balkans - a wealth of flowers and green before the hot suns of next month dries up all the countryside.

May 18 Evensong in the Mosque.

May 20th Services for A101, D101, B989 D99 - Six inch Howitzers.

May 21 H.C. 7.30 a.m. and Evensong 7 p.m. for B99.

A quiet week as regards the War. I visited the batteries an usual. Weather a bit cooler with thunder - showers. The medical authorities issued orders against living in house so once again I started to dig in.

Whitsunday 7.30 a.m. H.C. for A98 A100 & Section of B98, Six inch Hows., 100 R.E. invited also Borders & L. Fusiliers & Manchesters, M Gun transport, 9 a.m. Matins and H.C. for D99 10 a.m. Matins B98, 11 a.m. D98. 7 p.m. Evensong for A98, A100. Services arranged for Borders & A & B 99 had to be postponed.

Whitmonday Rode in with Pepys to see Pelly - in the evening had quite a successful concert in the old mosque. The Doctor as usual did his card tricks.

Trinity Started off at 7 a.m. and walked to A101 for Matins at 8.30 a.m. and H.C. after in amm. Sunday dugout. C100 at 9.45 a.m. in gunpit. Walked on to D101 but could hold no service as they were

being shelled, B100 had moved, so on to D98 for lunch and a rest and Evensong and home for service for A98, A100.

This was a particularly hot day. The weather during this week became very hot indeed. I spenttime as usual wandering round the batteries. The Bosch was fairly quiet.

The scenery in parts of this district was quite pretty. The wild flowers were very numerous. Mulberries and cherries were ripening.

1 Trinity Holy Communion in Bujuklu for A98, A100 & D K5L1 at 7.30 a.n. Matins 10 a.m. A100, Evensong 5.45 p.m. for A99 in a most picturesque spot by a riverside, B99 6.45 p.m., D99 at 8 p.m. Spent night with D99 (Henderson etc.) Next morning walked up a certain hill and had a beautiful view of the lake D & town. Innoculated against cholera.

Bulgars a bit more active, tries several raids.

We held a most successful concert on Monday in combination with 8KSLI. The mosque was packed.

May / June 1917

Very busy visiting batteries. Arranged services on Sunday for each battery every other Sunday & a visit once a week.

D98 (on Saturday) shelled by a 5.9. I had a difficult job getting one poor fellow, badly wounded in head, to the Ambulance. General Bond came with me to find safest way into the battery. Gunner Wilson later died at C.C.S. Major Leah thanked me next day after Service.

June 17 Matins A100 at 9.15 a.m., B98 10 a.m., D98 11 a.m.,Evensong D101 5 p.m. ClOO 6 p.m., A101 7 p.m. B101 8 p.m.

June 18 Went down to Salonica by night train and back next afternoon on a visit to ordnance. Spent night with Major Robson.

June 20 Bosch bombarded us most of day but did no harm at all.

June 21 Bathed in Lake Doiran - water beautifully warm and a lovely sandy bottom. Bosch did not fire at us.

June 23 Rode over to 99th H.Q. where I put up for weekend. On these "tours" I used to carry my blanket, waterproof sheet & mosquito net on back of saddle, my pyjamas and shaving kit in wallets so that I was quite independent of outside help.

June 24 Holy Communion in Vladaja [see map] Church at 8 a.m. Some of my men cleaned up the old stone altar and the space inside the screen, Several men came to Celebration.

Services for day covered - A. B. D. & H.Q. 99, B.Q. 98 , B100 through Garnier 205 Siege. 185 Heavies were invited but did not come.

June 25 Rode into Div H.Q. to see Pelly. In evening had evensong for A98.

This month was a time of thunderstorms and heavy rainstorms. The temperature was high but I found it best policy to keep on the move.

Our swallows have flown! The swallow was most domesticated in our neighbourhood, building in men's dug-outs and officers moss and carrying on their business within a few feet of men's heads.

June 27 Another bathe in L.D.

June 29 New batman Suckling joined.

June 28 A noisy night - the Bulgar raided a position of our front line but was driven out again at once. He shelled several of my batteries but did no damage.

June 30 Evensong for left sect D99.

July 1 H.C. Bujuklu 7.30 a.m., Matins B & D 98, A100Evensong D101 5 p.m., C100 6 p.m., A101 7 p.m. B101 8 P.M.

July 2 H.C. at 7 a.m. at Aid post Evensong A98 6.30 p.m.

A very busy week during which I visited every battery in the Divisional R.F.A. & 2 Heavy batteries. In 100 battery - which relieved A101 - I met Corp. Martin formerly of South Molton [where HRC served as Curate] also during week met & Penhale of Bideford & Corp. Vickery of Denbury.

July 3 Bathe in L.D.

June / July1917

July 4 Quite a good pick-up concert. Shells falling near but not too near.

July 7 A100 had 3 men wounded thro' anti-aircraft shell (Bosch) bursting on contact in gunpit. I first aided them. One fellow wounded in 8 places "but not in the heart sir".

July 4 A total eclipse of moon

Thunderstorms and hard showers still continued and kept temperature lower than last year. Health at gun positions quite good.

July 8 Vladaja Church 8 a.m. H.C. BlOO Morning Service 9.30 a.m. 17.00 A99, H.Q. 98, 18.00 205 Siege, 19.00 B99, D99 right section 20.00 185 Heavies with H.C. 99 waggon lines.

July 9 H.C. 7.30 a.m. in Deep Cut Ravine Recreation hut.Spent week-end at 99 H.Q.

July 11 H.C. 7.30 a.m. for 185 Heavies in a dug-out.Evensong 7.30 p.m. for D99 left section in a gun-pit.

July 13 Lecture for A99 on Greek legends.

July 14 Pelly goes on leave and I report at Div. H.Q. to act for time being as S. Chaplain.

July 15 H.C. in A mess 7.30 a.m.10 a.m. Matins in Gugunci [or Cugunci - now called Megali Sterna] Church. A fine old Church used as a hospital ward.17.30 Evensong for H.Q. units a high wind made talking difficult.18.30 Evensong for labour battalion.A cool wind for some days kept down temperature but v. hot July 16 grass fires springing up everywhere.

July 16 Took Rev. J.T. Philips up to Bujuklu to introduce him. I appointed him there during my absence.Evensong at D/98 & B/98.

July 17 Weather turned v. hot - Pelly sailed.

July 18 Conference of Chaplains, present Rev. T.V. Garnier, C.S. Pepys, J.C. Hargreaves, S.R. Murley, A.W. Sarson, absent not well J.T. Philips in hospital G.H. Warde.

Very busy week - particularly hot in middle of day. Mornings were taken up by paper work & evenings in going round waggon lines etc.

July 22 H.C. 7.30 a.m. in A mess.9 a.m. Matins for 98 B.A.C. & waggonline 66 S.A.C.10 a.m. Matins at 68 F.A. for neighbouring units5.30 p.m. Evensong for Div. H.Q. & neighbouring units.6.15 p.m. Labour batt. (scratched)7 p.m. Rail Head & 8 p.m. 844 A.S.C. etc. (scratch dinner at Railhead).

The railhead service was in one of the Ordnance Hangars and attracted men from several units round.

July 24 Conference of Chaplains at 8.30 a.m. in my dug-out.

A.P.M. discovered a Macedonian Muleteer in a very decomposed state - having laid dead a week - too far gone to ascertain cause of death - but his body was hidden in bushes away from any track. Med. Auth. ordered him immediate burial on the spot which I did.

July 1917

Weather very hot & dry - each evening I rode round waggon lines. Pelly's horse not a bad animal' for my groom I had a mule - season for grass fires.

July 29 H.C. at 7.30 a.m. in “A” Mess.10 a.m. Matins for A & D101 waggon lines11 a.m. “ B & Column 101 waggon lines5.30 p.m. Evensong at Div. H.Q. in a picturesque spot in a deep ravine. Congregation made up of many small lots of men from different neighbouring units.7 P.M. Railhead Evensong - a musical congregation made up of various clerks from ordnance and other railhead units.

July 30 Motored over to Janesh to see Radford Senior Chaplain Corps.

A very hot period Indeed. I cancelled Tuesday's weekly conference of Chaplains on account of heat. It was too hot at this period to go out during the day so I used to ride round waggon lines each evening after tea. The district behind front line included a large number of units varying in size, and consisting of anything from boot shops to balloon sections.

I was thankful to keep well so far through the heat and malaria and sandfly fever and other diseases.

Sunday H.C. in A Mess 7.30 a.m.Aug. 5 H.C. at Railhead at 10 a.m. in a very strong and very hot wind.

Evensong at D. H.Q. at 5.30 p.m. I borrowed L.F. for the occasion.Evensong for 99 B.A.C. & 65 S.A.A.C. at 6.30 p.m.This was a very hot day indeed.

My dug-out at D.H.Q. was too stuffy so I used to sleep outside but of course always under net.

Aug. 6 I had to evacuate my S George's Hanover Sq. Curate with shell shock. Dined at Vladaja with Col. Bouchier just returned from leave. Capt. Duncan wounded.Nothing to record except great heat, whole countryside so dry that fires were frequent.Artillery on both sides kept active. We carried out a successful raid after a heavy bombardment.

Aug. 11 H.C. 7.30 a.m. A Mess.9 a.m. Morning Service for 98 lines & 66 S.A.C. - quite a crowd in 66 Shelter.10 a.m. Service for A & D101 waggon lines11 a.m. “ 101 Column11.30 “ B101 Lines5.30 p.m. Evensong for Div. H.Q. with band, marched to Church to tune of Keep Home Fires Burning and returned to "Sister Susie”.7 p.m. Evensong at Railhead for all units round -Dinner with Johnson & Ricketts in curious underground cave.

Capt. Pearson E. Lancs. of N.W.M.P. of Athabasca Land who knew George spent weekend at Div. H.Q. [George = brother of HRC who settled and farmed in Athabasca, Canada]

Aug. 13 Funeral at Gugunci of 2 Lt. G.F.H. Moore of 9th Borders accidentally shot in train near Causica.

Aug. 14 Weekly Chaplains Conference.

Papers of July 23 arrived, Pelly & myself mentioned in dispatches.

Aug. 17 Service at Bujuklu, and dinner after. A very wild day on account of wind and dust storms.

Aug. 19 D.H.Q. H.C. 7.3066 S.A.A.C. & 98 lines 9.00 Gugunci quite a crowd of R.E. 10.00D.H.Q. 17.30, 99 lines & 65 S.A.A.C. 19.00Dinner with Fraser at 99 B.A.C.

July / August 1917

Aug. 20 A very hot dry week. I kept visiting somewhere every evening but there was nothing much doing.

Salonica burnt down - our poor local effort at civilisation ceases to exist according to Balkan News; between 60,000 and 100,000 people homeless.

Aug. 21 Usual weekly conference of Chaplains. In spite of heat most of Chaplains managed to turn up, we had intercessions, conference on work and discussion on some points of difficulty (e.g. reprisals).

Aug. 26 H.C. D.H.Q. 7.30 A/101 lines 10.00, B & 101 B.A.C. 11.00D & D.H.Q. 17.30 Railhead 19.00.

A noisy week as we had a lot of stuff to throw at the Bulgar. Each day I visited the batteries but did not come in for anything. Very exciting.

Aug. 30 Big bombardment and a raid - which gave us some prisoners.

Sept. 2 H.C. 7.30 Div. H.Q. -9.00 Matins at 66 S.A.A.C.10.00 “ Gugunci17.30 Evensong for Div. H.Q.Funeral of B.S.M. Creswick

Capt. Mills of Newton spent weekend at Div. H.Q.

N.B. At Gugunci Swimming bath every evening hundreds of kestrel hawks assembled. Fair number of partridges round and some hare. I borrowed a gun from Roxby and walked the Bujuklu neighbourhood but did not find anything.

For first time had to bury a Jew. I borrowed a book from major Spielman R.E. and read the Jewish service.

Sept. 8 Pelly returned! I at once returned to My old H.Q. which were at Border Hill, a picturesque spot amongst the hills with a wide view of some typical Balkan scenery. Lake Doiran was quite near us and so were swarms of mosquitoes. There were some fine bomb-proof dugouts but I preferred a tent while it was still hot and as long as the Bulgar did not trouble our immediate surroundings.

Sept. 9 A small programme on account of my sudden move.H.Q./98 8.30, B. & D98 in the evening.

Sept. 10 I paid a visit to D/101 to sympathise with them on their shelling day before but came in for a much heavier bombardment, no one hurt and no damage.

Spent week finding out all my old friends of R.F.A.

Sept. 15 Went to Bujuklu for weekend service in old mosque.

Sept 16 H.C. at Bujuklu9.00 B/101, 10.00 A/101, 11.00 D/101, 17.30 D/98I had to postpone A/100 on account of "colic”.

I was caught napping by a cold Vardar wind which worked havoc amongst the tents and bivies at the waggon lines.

Sept. 17 Returned to Border Hill. Service for D/99 at 18.00.

Sept. 18 Chaplains meeting at Gugunci, at 9.00 hrs. afterwards rode on with Scholefield and had lunch with Robson 101 B.A.C.

August / September 1917

Weather turned decidedly cooler and we have had a very little rain.

Sept. 23 Services for all batteries on right -H.C. at Vladaja A.D.S. 7.30 a.m.M.P. 98 H.Q. at 8.30 a.m.M.P. & H.C. at Deep Cut Ravine 9.15 a.m.E.P. 5.30 for A99 and for B/100 at 6.30.

Sept. 24 Each Monday service for D/99 right section, and left section on Tuesdays.

A quiet time although there was always artillery activity and Bulgar took it into his head to be nasty to batteries by turn but did remarkably little damage -Mosquitoes still bad but cooler at nights.

Sept. 28 Moved to Piton Prime for a fortnight rest for Brigade H.Q. - a picturesque spot amongst hills where there were some good dug-outs but a lot of mosquitoes.

Our moving was rather delayed by about 50 8 inch.

Sept. 30 Weekend at Bujuklu - slept in the family bomb-proof.Service on Saturday evening for A/98 and on Sunday for A.B.D. 101, C100 B & D/98, so a busy day. Middle day Bulgar threw about 100 5.9 into Bujuklu ravine but did no harm at all for which I returned thanks at evening service.

Oct. 1 H.C. at Clichy A.D.S. for neighbouring batteries and in evening Service for D/99.

Oct . 3 Service on Tortue. [Tortoise Hill]

Oct. 2 H.C. at Div. H.Q. for Chaplains

Oct. 3 Always busy - my plan of visiting every battery in division once a week kept me always on the move and a great deal of the time on my feet. I also aimed at a service for each battery at least once a fortnight. I managed this by having several services on weeknights. As ever my churches were various dug-outs of all kinds, gun-pits, open air dining shelters etc. The men all seemed keen on Services.

Oct. 8/9 Bombardment and raid very noisy indeed. On the next morning I went up to Tortue to see my men through any trouble but we were very lucky. Weather turned cooler at nights.

Oct. 13- 16 At Bujuklu - for weekend services and on Sunday I went to all the left batteries. On the Monday I had a most successful concert in the old mosque which the Bosch tried to shake up next morning.

Oct. 15 Saw first snow on Olympus.

A week of preparation for Horse show.

Oct. 18 B101 & A101 on top in driving competition.

Another big bombardment - Colonel B. took charge of all the Heavies. We moved up to Divisional O.P. for inside of a week -

Wet weather made the approaches to the dug-cuts very dangerous. Our mess cook-house fell in one night much to the despair of our cook Gunner Warland.

Oct. 21 Slack Sunday - all my people very busy.

Moved back to Piton Prime and next day on to Border.

September / October 1917

My home was a small 2 quadrant dug-out but rather leaky.

Oct. 26/27 Divisional Horse show at Gugunci. This was the culmination of a period of very hard work by horse units. The turn-outs as a whole were very good - Samail & Milne & Wilson were present. A Bulgar plane came and looked at us but was sporting enough to say nothing. The sideshows were good especially a circus with an elephant and tiger etc.

Murley A.P.C. informed me unofficially that I had been transferred to Mesopotamia.

Oct. 28 H.C. & Matins Deep Cut Ravine. 9.30 a.m. Heavies, A/99 Evensong. & Evening Service in Deep Cut Ravine.

Oct. 30 Rode to Janesh to put up some crosses for men of D/98 who had died at C.C.S.

Oct. 31 Round the batteries -

Nov. 3 Funeral at Gugunci of 3 men of C/100.

Nov. 4 Services for A/100, B/98, D/98 & B/100.

Nov. 5/6 At B/101 - to buck them up after a rough time to have a service.

Weather cooler - birds on the move.

Nov. 11 Services on left - I found Deep Cut Ravine Recreation Room extremely useful for services. Infantry put man in charge to manage canteen etc. - the evening service was especially cheery.The week was very wet, our dugouts turned out to be very leaky, mine was the worst of lot. I had a very muddy and wet time but "all merry and bright".

Nov. 15 Captain Basil Harris came in to dinner.

Nov. 18 Services on right, Deep Cut Recreation Room, batteries R.F.A. & the R.G.A.

A very cold spell - mountains on all sides covered in snow and the Vardar wind blowing with full force. My winter kit arrived just in time. After the extreme heat of the summer we all felt the cold very much.

Nov. 20 Services on right.

Dec. 2 Services on left.

______________________

About this time the Bulgar got very busy and heavily bombarded our whole line. He threw a lot of shells of all calibres including gas on my batteries but did no harm at all. His actual attack came especially on the P ridge but he was beaten back with very heavy losses indeed by our infantry and barrage. He tried again next night but with no better success so quietened down considerably. Our men were all very pleased at our success.

I was busy the whole time as ever amongst the gunners, visiting them and holding services.

On the right my Recreation Room proved a great success. The room was packed every night and the services and weekly concerts were very much appreciated. Johnny Bulgar threw some 8 inch within a few yards on one occasion but did no harm.

Visited O.P. [Observation Post] with Grose to see shoot on P ridge - and ditto with Berkeley to ace shoot on a Trench Mortar.

Dec. 4 Joined 65 General Hospital.

October - December 1917

A wire came suddenly on Dec. 3 - I proceeded at once. 65 was on Hortiack Plateau - a very high and picturesque spot on the high hills above Salonica. A tremendously cold spell, a bitterly cold wind, I have never felt so cold before. The bell tent was a great shock after my warm little dugout up country.

Dec. I went down to Salonica, lunched with Murley at G.H.Q. - the town was a very strange sight after the fire.

Dec. 6, 7 & 8 - Extremely cold spell - everything frozen up even our beer, fall of snow.

Dec. 8 Walked up to Hortiack Village with Padre Hindle (Wesl.) Walked into church and found funeral going on, we were handed tapers like the rest of the congregation but we did not join with him in kissing the corpse, an old woman. First the priest, then the men, then women knelt and kissed the old lady.

Dec. 9 Took service at 5 Convales. Camp.

Dec. 11 Embarked on H.M.T. Bermudian with sisters and full complement of doctors.

Departs Salonica for Mesopotamia

Dec. 12 Sailed - by a strange coincidence I landed and left Salonica on my birthday with 2 years interval - our boat was comfortable and the company cheerful.

Dec. 13 Milos - arrived. [Island S.E. of Greece]Dec. 14/15 Went ashore saw a local lace factory, ancient theatre, catacombs etc. note handsome children

little churches (perhaps Rogation) spread in fields - many wild anemones and corn just coining up. Island otherwise a barren looking rock.

Dec. 16 An early Celebration at which quite a good many of sisters present - combined service with Hindle later - island chiefly noteworthy for the Statute of Venus found here.

Dec. 16 Left Milos - a somewhat choppy sea which rather disturbed some of our fair company.

Dec. 18 Arrived Port Said.

Dec. 19 Port Said - went ashore with Miss Greed and did a lot of shopping quite good shops and not really expensive lunched at Continental Hotel, later transshipped to H.M.T. Minnetonka, a beautiful boat - bought eggs and oranges from bumboats.

Dec. 20 Left Port Said early and sailed down Suez Canal - a most interesting trip. Sun getting hotter - past El Kantara and on to Suez about 8.30 p.m.

Dec. 21 Red Sea - Sinai etc.

Dec. 22 Concert.

Dec. 23 Services. The Celebration in the Library and the other services in the open aft. Temperature fairly warm but not too hot to be unpleasant.

Dec. 24 Carols in the bright tropical moonlight on deck. Miss Compton (piano) Miss Wilson (violin).

Dec. 25 A wonderfully happy Christmas day - Celebration at 6.30, 7.30 & 10.00 and a morning service at 9.30. Quite a good number of Communicants. Men had their dinner middle day. In the

December 1917

afternoon Sports - All usual ship-board items, tug of war, bolster bar over bath, bun & treacle, relay race, ladies' animal drawing competition, wheelbarrow race (for sisters and officers) (I won 2nd prize - a Seidlitz powder) , relay race, "Are you there Murphy?”.

In the evening sisters and officers had a fancy dress dinner the costumes were extraordinarily good and were all homemade from service kits, Miss Creed made a fascinating Powder Puff, Miss Compton - Quaker Girl, Miss Thomson - Nunn, Matron - 'Old lady who lived in a shoe', Colonel Skinner - a chef, Capt. Clements - Japan, self - Capt. Kettle. The whole day went with a swing - everyone entered into the spirit of Christmas though the conditions were so strange - a large ship, a burning sun, a wonderfully calm sea.

Dec. 26 A very pleasant time spent & ff largely on deck - weather

never too hot - sea very calm.

Dec. 29 Henyam island a pearl fishery - otherwise barren.

Dec. 30 Still in harbour - Services Holy Communion 7.30, Morning Service and Evening with Hindle.

Dec. 22 etc. Cholera innoculation 2 lots.

Dec. 31. New Years Eve - spent at anchor at Hen Yam island. In the evening we had a most enjoyable dinner at 7 p.m. - my partner was Miss Creed.

1918We lay here till Jan. 3 presumably to coal. A collier came alongside on one side and dhows on the other and for several days we lived in an atmosphere of coal dust. Several times I managed to get ashore and generally had Miss C. as companion. It was very pleasant getting ashore after our spell on board ship. The men had football and cricket matches and on our last day I had some tennis on an asphalt court belonging to the coaling station people, Miss Compton & Cant. Halley against Miss Creed and myself. The island was nothing more than a coral and mud bank. The few inhabitants were very primitive, the women wore a curious kind of mask - something like a headman's - black with in some cases yellow stripes.

Jan. 5 Arr. Koweit and transshipped to SS Palamcotta and sailed next morning - a great change from H.M.T. Minnetonka. Our cabins were too like a menagerie to be occupied so we all slept on deck.

Jan. 6 H.C. on deck and M.P. below later but roughness of sea rather interfered with my congregation - anchored for night after crossing the bar.

SS Palamcotta

December 1917

H.M.T. Minnetonka

Jan. 7 Sailed up Shatt-el-Arab Apadam 8.30 Anglo Persian oil works. The voyage up the river was quite interesting all the way up to Basra there was a belt of palm trees on both banks with occasional squalid villages of mud and thatch hovels. Arrived Ashur-Basra 11.30 a.m. and disembarked about 2.30 p.m. - our kits were taken on bullock wagons, we walked through particularly tenacious mud to Medical Reinforcement Camp Makina about 5 miles.

Jan. 8 Walked down to Ashur with Capt. Halley - a very disappointing place - the mud was indescribable - our walk through the native bazaar was a very dirty one. Returned by ballum to Makina. The whole district was split up by creeks so that it was possible to get almost anywhere in these native boats. Reported to Acting Assit. Principal Chaplain.

Jan. 9 Walked down to 3 B.G.H. and by great luck Miss Creed and Wilson just starting in a car for town so rode in with them. We walked through the streets of Ashur which beat anything even in Salonica for dirt and mud. There were only some very 3rd rate kind of shops. The ladies invited me to lunch at their club which was an excellent place. After lunch we hired a boat (ballum) and made for Makina. These boats are long and narrow and propelled by either pole or paddle and can get through very narrow places. We walked from point where we ware disembarked to Makina Gymkhana Club where we had an excellent tea and listened to an Indian band.

Jan. 10 Miss Creed had sudden orders to go up to Isolation Hospital Baghdad - had a stroll with her in evening.

Jan. 11 Went into Ashur to do some final shopping with Miss C., lunch at Sisters club, back by ballum to 3 B.G.H. with our purchases, tea at Makina Club.

Vaccinated on account of prevalence of smallpox.

Our camp at Machina was in very picturesque surroundings we were in the palm tree belt. Our homes were lightly built huts with double roofs. We found it a bit chilly for the first few nights as everything was built for the hot weather and it was distinctly cold when we landed. Our sisters were divided amongst different hospitals 33, 40 & 3 B.G.H.

Papers of Nov. 29 1917 arrived with my second mention in dispatches.

Jan. 12 Miss C. sailed up stream.

Jan. 13 H.C. in chapel of 33 B.G.H. - a charming little chapel.10.15 Service with Hindle.3 p.m. Exhibition of Indian wrestling.4 p.m. Pianoforte recital in Makina Club.6.30 p.m. Evensong.

Weather - bright sun in middle of day but quite cold at nights.

Jan. 15 Bad river accident - launch containing a number of 65th Sisters was run down off Ashur and 4 were drowned including Miss Compton, a great friend of Miss Creed.

January 1918

Officers and nurses on a ballum

Anglo Persian oil works

Jan. 16 Funeral of Miss Tindall in cemetery near Makina. A large number of people attended including many of our own sisters, the Matron in Chief, Miss Jones, our own Matron Miss Hall and many representative officers from Base H.Q.

During week no more bodies found - lost were Miss Tindall, Welford, Compton, Faithful.

Jan. 22 Memorial Services - 33 B.G.H. Chapel Requiem 8 a.m., Memorial 3.30 p.m.

Jan. 26 Started up stream on PA 61 at 3.30 p.m. from Margil. A paddle steamer with a barge each side. As we pushed off some of Indians cried out In English “Are we downhearted? No!”

Reached Qurnah, junction of Tigrus and Euphrates at 9 p.m. reputed site of Eden. About 2 a.m. had to tie up on account of dense fog.

Jan. 27 Sailed 7 a.m. passed Ezra's tomb. 9 a.m. a largish mud-brick building with a blue dome, picturesque in its palm tree setting.

The banks from Basra to Qurnah were lined with palm trees but afterwards were mostly treeless. There were fairly frequent small villages composed of rush huts. The inhabitants rushed to the banks with eggs and live poultry hens and ducks and often followed us for miles. On account of the frequent narrow bends on the river we often bumped shore which gave them their chance (eggs 10 for rupee). The people looked a healthy lot with strong children, the women were not all ill favoured but nearly all wore nose-rings. They went in for "jewellery", rings on fingers, and silver ankle and wrist circlets.The country had a barren look but gave idea of great possibilities. The ancient irrigation channels all seemed silted up and present systems of irrigation appeared extraordinarily crude. But a certain amount of ground on banks was ploughed. There were also cattle and sheep but not in large quantities.

Owing to crowded condition of our "ship" we had to sleep on deck and found it very cold.

Jan 27 Septuagesima - Morning and Evening Service in a corner of the deck.

Jan. 28 Reached Amarah early and sailed again 8.45. A wet cold day.

The sunset over the a desert with perhaps a foreground of palms and the long after glow were of extraordinary beauty.

(Remember natives not shy about their religion - pray anywhere).

(16th Jan. Pte. S.W. Hodson North-umberland Fusiliers (p.b. man) told off by Base as my permanent batman).

Jan. 29 Quite cold - flat uninteresting country - signs of trenches as we reached Kut.

Kut camp 4 p.m. - landed and walked up to post office and canteen.

Kut town 6 p.m. - stuck on sandbank till 10 p.m.

January 1918

Queen Alexandra Imperial Nursing Service Club, Basra

Ashur Coffee House

Jan. 30 Bgailah 10 a.m. - better country for a time - still absolutely flat but range of hills with snow to the East, plenty of sheen and cattle and a few trees within mud-wall enclosures also crude attempts at irrigation.

Azizial 10 p.m. - telegram that Miss Compton's body had been found.

Jan. 31 First saw the great Arch of Ctesiphon miles off across the plain flat pastoral country - plenty of sheep and cattle - donkeys and occasionally camels - primitive irrigation works and circular coracles - a few "mahalas" sailing down stream. Plenty of duck of different kinds - running aground on sandbanks not infrequent occurrence.

Reached Ctesiphon about 1.30 a.m. - the great arch stands up from the plain on the left bank - we were very impressed with its solitary grandeur.

Drala river with its pontoon bridge - round coracles with men fishing.

Feb. 1 Reached our camp at Karadah 4 miles south of Baghdad at 11 a.m. - went into town after lunch to see Miss C - found her at 23 a beautiful building in wonderfully pretty surroundings on a bend of Tigris - she brought me back in a steam launch right through Baghdad under 2 pontoon bridges.

Our new hospital site was on river bank (east side) in palm belt, our temporary home consisted of bell tents and marquees. The walk into Baghdad was most interesting along the bund of the river - the banks were lined with quite good eastern houses with gardens of palm and orange and other trees - these houses became bigger as we entered the city - The most prominent feature of the town were the large domes of the many mosques, some faced with coloured tiles on which clung hundreds of pigeons.

The bazaars were as usual covered but here with vaulted stone roofs. The people were a cosmopolitan crowd including many Arabs, Turks and Jews.

Feb. 2 To ordnance in morning, in afternoon Baghdad. The weather this season was most enjoyable - quite cold at night but sufficiently hot in the middle of the day.

Information through that all bodies had been found.

Feb . 3 H.C. at officers Convalescent Depot. Morning Service in open under palm trees and Evening in E P I tent. Walked back from Baghdad in afternoon having gone in on the ferry.

Feb. 4 Walk with D.A.C. up river and a very rough walk home later on tow path - a wet rough night.

Feb. 5 Walked round to old bazaars of Baghdad with Capt. Clements, lunch at Club.

Feb. 8 Home as well as up by launch + bit of a cold.

January 1918

Ezra's Tomb

Qurnah

The bazaars of Baghdad are very interesting especia1ly the silver and copper workers but there is very little to buy to send home. Most of the silver work is very crude, some of the carpets are very beautiful but many appear to be made in Europe.

Feb. 10 H.C. in Officers Con. Depot and services in camp.

Feb. 11 Trip to Ctesiphon with Capt. Tombleson and Lieut. Candler. Left Henaideh at 10.20 by train, we persuaded engine driver to stop about 20 minutes walk from Arch.

The so-called Arch is in reality a length of dome-roof about 50 yds long, height from ground about 100ft. with inside arch on ground 25 yds. breadth of walls 7 yds. At the face of the arch is a length of wall of same height as the arch. The arches on the wall are very similar to our own Norman decoration. The material of the whole great mass in burnt brick with a very liberal supply of mortar. There is almost as much mortar as brick.

The great ruin stands up in lonely grandeur from the plain. Of the great city which once stood round it there is now practically no sign at all. Here and there are a few mounds and remains of brick walls and that is all. We walked to Bustan in the afternoon and took train home.

Feb. 17 Weekend with 1/5 E. Surreys. Motored on Saturday to their camp - and took Sunday Services - I enjoyed trip as officers and men seemed keen. Crompton of X Jats came to early H.C., an old Cambridge friend.

On the way out I had a good look at the wonderful mosque at Kar Gemain. It has 4 large minarets and 2 great domes all covered with gold. The mosque is surrounded with a big courtyard bounded by a tall wall. There are gateways on each side decorated with brightly coloured tiles. No Christian is allowed inside these gateways.

My night in camp was very noisy - jackals etc. seemed to be hunting round by the hundred.

(Note - women's cloaks abbas - brightly coloured - native women wore heavy anklets of silver and disfiguring noserings.)

Boats - circular coracles - bellums mahalahs.

Primitive methods of irrigation but where-ever water reached ground seemed very fertile.

Feb. 20 A days rain. This week we started wearing helmets.

Feb. 24 Weekend again with 1/5 E. Surreys. There was also a brigade of R.F.A. on parade so I had quite a large congregation. I had a walk out into the desert and saw away in the distance tomb said to be 16 miles away.

Feb. 27 Heavy rain - still quite cold at night but getting hot during the day.

Bible discussion class at Y.M.C.A.

Nothing doing so I used to walk most days to Baghdad with Twort and Tombleson and have tea at Y.M.C.A. or at the Officers club.

Moved into EPIP tents. I shared with F. Campbell.

(Note abundant life wherever water was brought to the land).

News of M.C. for excitements in Macedonia.

A large mail with congrats from home - letters took about 2 months.

February 1918

Ctesiphon

Mar. 3 Again week-end with Surreys back on Sunday afternoon, Evensong for 65 B.G.H. and later a service for officers and men at Hinaidel S & T dump.

Mar. 4 lst Arabic class at Y.M.C.A.

Mar. 10 Home for week-end. Services for Machine Guns Corps. A.S.C. and Hospital.Baghdad Week - unfortunately it was stormy.

I went up twice to Sporting Club to Horse show and Races. Some excellent horses and mules were shown, the jumping was good. The first day of Races was rather spoilt by rain but flat races were run - crowds of officers and men were present.

Mar. 9 Orders to proceed to Cavalry Division.

Mar. 17 Services for M.G.C., Trench Mortar School and Hospital.

Mar. 18 Left by midnight train very unpleasant officer company in my Pullman.

Mar. 19 Reported at Cavalry Div. and attached to 6th Cavalry Brigade to live at 131 CCFA. I inherited two good horses Prince and a mare called Ginger who I renamed Trixie.

Groom - Wooley R.H.A.Prince bay horse 15.2Trixie chestnut mare 15.2

I spent my first few days calling at the different Messes.

Our camp was at Sadjah on right bank of Tigris halfway between Baghdad and Samarra - dead flat and not a tree in sight, snow mountains of Persia in sight - great district for mirage. Still quite cold at night but hotter middle day. Heavy rain March 19.

Palm First Sunday in my new work. H.C. in an E.P.I. Not many Communicants, Morning Service in Sunday lines of 13th Hussars at 10 a.m. quite a good crowd, 2 cornet players and a choir, men from 2 1918 R.H.A. batteries and a number of bluejackets from a monitor. H.C. after service.

Evensong in Church tent but not crowded.Monday My first trek in Mespot. passed starting point at 10 a.m., crossed pontoon bridge and travelled Mar. 25 across a level plain to Deltawah. I went thro' the village with Capt. Foster and found it a

prosperous and interesting place - in an oasis of palm and orange trees. Rain threatened so we pressed on but it caught us. It rained and hailed very hard for a time and made going rather bad.

Crossed Dialah near Bakuba (a famous orange place) and reached camp 7 p.m. Our Indian followers very quick in getting camp in order, a 180lb tent for officers and mess and 8lb for Colonel, they soon had some hot bully patties and tea going and we found it very welcome.

Rained again hard at night - this rain was very late in the season so I was told. The country through which we passed this day was quite green in many places.

In Deltawah we did a little "political" work showing the kiddies graphically what the Germans would do to then if they caught them.

Mar. 26 Trekked northward to Aba Bisrah the country was flat but more interesting than most parts of Mespot as there was considerable cultivation. The whole district was irrigated by a system of canals from the Dialah. Some gunner officers went out pig-sticking and we had some of the pig for lunch later on.

The mountains with their snow-caps began to show up more clearly.

Mar. 27 Trekked to Shahraban, camped alongside a small canal in quite a nice spot.

Weather - hot during day but still quite cool at night.

February / March 1918

Mar. 30 Heavy wind from S.E. and rain at night.

Mar. 31 Easter Day - in certain ways very disappointing to me - my people had had no Chaplain for so long that none seemed keen only few at early celebration and Matins was a washout.

EasterEvening Shahraban Y.M.C.A. I conducted and preached at a crowded service.

Bank Small race meeting - point to point some nasty irrigation canals to cross which brought a goodHoliday many riders to grief.

Apr. 1, 2 Very stormy - wind and rain a lot of the tents in our camp came down. My little 401b tent over its hole in the ground stood firm.

Captain Singh I.M.S. a Sikh was a member of our ambulance. I took a great fancy to him.

Apr. 4 A delightful ride with Murphy V.O., & Ransom one of M.O.s across some rough country. much intersected by irrigation canals to where the Diala cuts its way through the cliffs of the Sabal Hamrain. There were quite a number of flowers near water. We came back through Ruiz.

Apr. 7 Services at Ambulance. Parade for R.H.A. and Evening Service.

Apr. 8 Ride with Ransom and Murphy saw a most interesting primitive kind of hockey in an Arab village. Warmer weather but still pleasant.

Plover's call "Did you do it"Red Anemones -

Apr. 14 Usual services weather still showery with strong winds.

Apr. 24 Set off from Sharaban for Kifu-Kirkuk stunt, rain made road heavy, crossed Dialah at Table Mountain safely tho' lot of water coming down. Camped for night at Longridge Hill on Suharijah Canal.

Apr. 25 Warm day - day's march was thro' flat country but plenty of good grass camped for night on skirts of Sabal-Hamrain near Ain Lailah springs.

Apr. 26 Marched 3 a.m. - beautiful moonlight, picturesque scenery going thro' the Pass, on further side of Sabal country undulating full of grass and flowers reached Wady Ghusham 10 a.m. - hotday in camp - signs of outposts of Turks.

Apr. 27 Left camp at midnight with Advanced Dressing Station Captain Singh and Lieut. Roach. Rough march with some very tricky crossings at times whole column trotted covered about 40 miles.

Apr. 27 In action 8.30 a.m. I was with 15 Machine Gun Sqn when we came under fire of Camel guns - 6th Cav. Brigade brought off big charge about 3 p.m. near Kulawund Village, capturing over 500 prisoners, 22 Offic., 2 mountain guns and many machine guns - very few wounded or killed on our side - 2 Indian Officers treacherously killed by Turks - strange procession back into camp - prisoners with all kinds of transport animals still coming in.

Bivouacked in open for night I helped at A.D.S. [Advanced Dressing Station] till late.

Apr. 28 Marched with 13 Hussars at 6.30 a.m. - in action again near Kulawund - spent day with cavalry who were reconnoitring positions to which enemy had retired - Prince went dead lame. About 6 p.m. crossed Aq Su river the lower crossing was shelled by Turks but we got through safely joined Lieut Green 15 M.G.S. and 21st Cav. with whom I marched all night and so missed Hussars. During night we came under fire from Turkish trenches but suffered no casualties - 1 hours sleep in cornfield. ½ tin bully beef only food except biscuits.

March / April 1918

Apr. 29 - for 2 days.At dawn we attacked rear and extreme right flank of Turks. I was with H.Q. and doctor of 21 Cavalry. We had 2 direct hits Col. Banmer killed, Lieut Maxwell and I wounded and several Indians killed.

Lay till 12 before Ambulance picked me up had a guard of 4 Indians to protect me from Bedouins; bad and long ride in to A.D.S. - a passing officer gave me a Euripides Greek and English [tragedy plays of classical Athens] and a biscuit and some whisky - reached A.D.S. and was dressed by Singh and Roach - retreated to Ambulance which crossed the river.

Col. Hanmer was an exceptionally nice officer - he rode in to H.C. Sunday before.

Whole operation a great success many prisoners and guns.

Apr. 30 Col. Hanmer's funeral. Left in motor ambulance 12 noon reached Ain Lailah 8 p.m. after a very rough ride across country.

40 a most unsympathetic crowd.

May 1 Left 8.15 a.m. in motor reached 16 C.C.S. at Abu Saidah at 12.30. Wounds dressed - very good treatment left 8.30 p.m. in motor trolleys on rail and reached Bakuba 20 C.C.S. 10.30 p.m.

May 2 Spent day in C.C.S. - comfortable but hot.

May 3 Left Bakuba 5 p.m. by Ambulance train and reached 23 B.S.H. Baghdad 9.30 p.m. - well looked after here - in good cool quarters - an old Turkish palace just north of Baghdad.

May 12 Launch to Officers Convalesc. Depot - comfortable and well looked after in a Turkish house on banks of Tigrus.Different amusements - a launch took us rides in evening fishing etc. - one night saw Arab catch one - 5ft. - 7½ft. long weighing over 1001bs

May 24 Curious mixed garden party for Red Cross in Baghdad.

May 28 and ten days later - T.A.B. innoculation.

June 9 Returned to duty - got a lift right up in a Vauxhall belonging to Dunster Force* Armoured Car Brigade to Sharaban. Glad to get back to work again. [*an Allied military mission accompanied by armoured cars, named after General Lionel Dunsterville]

June 12 Cholera innoculation.

Weather getting hot - 106 in tents middle day, camp in E.P. tents by side of canal - went up to Mirsana via Qizik Robat to dentist - on my return on 9th to duty some of our bearers rushed up to Capt. Singh very excited “The Sahib with the 5 wounds has come back".

June 16 H.C.- an Indian from Field Troop was present - received orders to transfer to 7th Brigade.

June 19 Second Cholera innoculation.

June 19 Left Sharaban 8.30 p.m. train - one of the queerest beds I ever had - only accommodation trucks full to brim of stones so we had to spread our valises on top and hope for best. Armoured Car in Mesopotamia

April / May 1918

June 20 Arr. safely at Baghdad 8 a.m. spent day in town and rode out in cool of evening to Shaldairy Camp.

June 21 Att. to 7th Field Troop R.E. - very pleasant home – E.P. tent on bank of Tigrus.

June 22 Hot wind + dust storm.

June 23 Early H.C. in Y.M.C.A. tent - for this Sunday took part in Y.M.C.A. Services.

Weather getting hot but beautifully cool nights.

Several villages near camp so plentiful supply of eggs, tomatoes, cucumbers.

June 29 Pte. N.E. Tall 13th Hussars joins as batman.

Temperature running high -

June 30 H.C. 6 & 9.30Morning Service 9 a.m. and Ev. Pr. 8.30 p.m. all in Y.M.C.A. Tents.

July 4 Burial of Shoeing Smith Couch in Baghdad North Cem.

July 5 Assisted at burial of 17 Officers N.C.Os and men of 13 Hussars. Their bones were brought from Luff and re-buried in Baghdad N. Cem. near General Maud's grave. They fell in the famous charge on March 5 1917.

In spite of heat I kept well - swim in Tigrus in evening.

July 7 Services in Y.M.C.A tent - H.C. 6 & 9.30, M.P. 9, E.P. 8.30 p.m. - choir progressing.

July 8 Difficult to keep full progr. in Y.M.C.A. - but we managed a variety of amusements - concerts, lectures, competitions, (spelling bee) etc.

So far a cool season - not beyond 120 quite a lot of wind.

During this month Mohammedan fast of Ramaddan - last day

July 11 On my early morning ride I saw many people esp. men on their way to Kasrsemain Mosque.They seemed to keep their festival and take trouble to go long distances to the mosque.

July l7 Still fairly cool - life running on about same, evenings my busy time something doing most nights in Y.M.C.A. tent. River crowded with guppes day and night taking melons down to Baghdad.

July 18 Rise of temperature.

July 21 A busy and happy Sunday - choir sang Te Deum - Magnificat & Nunc Dim

Corp. Hall of 13th Hussars re-commenced S.C.A. meetings.

July 22 Rode into Baghdad on business left camp about 5.45 a.m. so as to get in cool - A most unattractive place, one had to go to ground at the Club all the heat of the day.

Nothing much to record - temperature running high each day. I went out each morning for a ride before breakfast and practised Arabic with everyone I met. Choir going strong its desire to run before it could walk needed checking tactfully.

General Maud's grave

June / July 1918

Aug. 4 Day of Intercession - usual times of services - quite good congregations 48 rupees collection for St. Dunstan's morning and evening we sang short anthems.

Aug. 5 Weather began to get hotter but remarkably little sickness. I kept busy - Recreation Tent kept me going with its supper bar (fish, eggs and tomatoes) and tea and cakes. We had whist drives, concerts, chess and draught tournaments etc.

Every Thursday evening I had a short service with intercessions, an address and plenty of hymns.

Aug. 18 After Evensong I baptized Pte. David William Bree of 13th Hussars.

Aug. 19 and 20An interesting short trek (20 miles each way) with Capt. Mac of R.H.A. A.C. to Khan Jadida with 25 waggons of empty sacks. Our escort was from Lancers. We travelled each way in early hours of morning to avoid heat. Our camp for the night was j mile below the village on banks of Tigris. On arrival we went and called on the Sheikh and had to be very careful in accepting his hospitality. We risked however his melons, but declined meat and junket. We were forced to try Araq a very fiery and potent liquor distilled from dates. The old Sheikh and his friend both sang us a song under its effect but we were more careful.

In the evening we crossed the river in a guphen, the circular movement nearly made me seasick. I shot a brace of sandgrouse but we could not wait long enough to get the birds coming home.

Aug. 21 Pte. S.W. Smith 41524 A/13th Hussars joined as batman.

Nothing much happening - same routine. We had several concert parties over from different units; Each had its fashionable young lady. I kept busy with my services and social "attractions" at Y.M.C.A.

September First fortnight hot and muggy. The dates ripened fast and all the men and boys were busy picking them. It looked a dangerous job. Several times on my early morning ride I was presented with fresh dates which were very good.

Each morning I practised my Arabic with all the men and boys I met. There was very little sickness this season. Most of the follows admitted to ambulance were suffering from ordinary horse accidents or Baghdad sores.

Sept. 8 Rode down to Ess-Salik to Signal camp and very hot I found it. Took service from the (open air) stage and celebrated later making a quiet church by drawing the curtains.

A very long period without a mail.

Sept 16 to 19Yet another Mohammedan feast - all the folk massed at Kadzimain and Baghdad etc.

Great prominence was given to these feasts by our authorities guns fired etc. rather more it seemed than to our own.

Still hot 114 in day and minimum of 80 at night.

Sept. 22 Service again at Signal Camp this time in a palm grove and Celebration after in picturesque surroundings but a hot ride home across desert.

Services in camp all going strong but life otherwise much the same.

N.B. Arabs very cute in making gardens on all mudbanks as the river receded.59

FridayOct. 11 Kick off 7.0 a.m. Khan Jedida 12.30 noon - very hot and dusty - 3 horses Prince - Trixie and

Jim.

July / August 1918

Sat.Oct. 12 Started 7.20 a.m. - hot and dusty trek of

18 miles to Sindiah, Lunch with 13th Hussars - bathe in evening in Tigris.

SundayOct. 13 Breakfast 5.15 a.m. start 7.30 a.m.

Uninteresting trek across flat country to Akab on Tigris - Adaim river about 24 miles - crossed one of great ancient canal.

MondayOct. 14 Breakfast 5.15 a.m. start 7.30 a.m. crossed

Adaim river by suspension bridge and river bed - followed course of Naiwan canal very hot and dusty arrived Khan Saurah 2 p.m.

Bathed each day in Tigris.

Oct. 15 From Khan Shariah to Samara - long uninteresting march and very hot. Hours before arrival could see Samara town and golden domes.

Oct. 16 Rest all day at Samara, our camp on cliffs by side of river runs swiftly here and makes a beautiful bathe - camp v dusty & flies.

Vaccinated against smallpox.

Mail in -

Walked with Father Garnold to tower and went up some way and took photo.

N.B. Many natives passed swiftly down stream on inflated skins.

Oct. 17 Dusty trek to Daur for 10 miles passed thro' ruins of an ancient city - extraordinarily dusty coming into camp but not so bad when we had settled down. Picturesque surroundings amongst rocks in river - beautiful bathe.

Oct. 16 From Daur to Tekrit still hot and v. dusty but country more rolling and river stony bed. Camp at Tekrit amongst thorn scrub.

Oct. 19 Rest at Tekrit all 3 horses quite fit.

Oct. 20 Tekrit at 119 CCFA still hot by day tho' nights cool.

Oct. 21 24 miles to Ain Nakhailah foot of pass by night - very cool at night - bivouacked at foot of pass till dawn and went on to the Cemetery by light.

Oct. 22 At Ain Nakhailah in Jebel Hunna. Springs of salty water.

Oct. 23 Moved out at 10.30 a.m. to another salt spring. Ration ½ bucket of water and next 2 days rations served out – 3 biscuits and 1 tin bully. Marched all night - bitterly cold - tried to sleep for an hour on Ground near horse - touch of fever.[General Alexander Cobbe commanded a British force from Baghdad on 23 October 1918. Within two days it covered 120 kilometers, reaching the Little Zab River.]

Golden dome of mosque, Samara

Malwiya Tower, Samarra, 1918

September / October 1918

Oct. 24 Arrived on flank of Fathah position at dawn but found enemy gone - at last about 10 got down to Tigris - men and animals immensely pleased to get a drink of decent water again.

Followed up Turk and found him in position on Lower Zab - artillery dual - camped at night near Tigris very dark and dusty coming into camp.

Oct. 25 Moved again at 5.30 a.m. - advanced up to Lower Zab crossed with Advanced Dressing Station - shrapnel coming over hole knocked in ambulance - advanced 12 miles up country returned with 70 prisoners to Zab for bivouac for night

Very short of rations for men and horses.Oct. 26 Moved 5.30 a.m. - manoeuvred north up Tigris - good deal of shelling but no casualties in our

brigade - back to Zab bivouac just before dark had brought a small chicken for which we were immensely thankful - some Arabs brought a brilliant chit from L.P.O. [Local Purchasing Officer] requesting us not to interfere with crops etc. must let horses starve and please L.P.O. Just settled down when we had orders to move - crossed the confounded ford in gloaming getting a bit wet, bivouacked other side for short time.

Oct. 27 Marched 3.30 a.m. and kept going with frequent trots till we reached Fathah about 11.30 a.m. I went straight down to river and had a swim and a long drink. Still warm by day - nights differed - some very cold - purpose of move was to proceed up other side of river Jobel and help 17th Div. but we had to return our own side to save Cassells brigade made a very long forced march.

Oct. 28 Most of Brigade moved suddenly back to Zab during, night Oct. 27 - 28 but I waited for Ambulance to move at 7 a.m.

The Fathah camp was teeming with Turkish flies.

Oct. 28 7 a.m. moved with Ambul and detail back to Zab camp.

Oct. 29 Waited at Zab with Ambulance innumerable sandgrouse flying about in huge flocks - I saw one big snipe. There were fish in the river but we had no means of catching them. An Arab told me the local way of catching them was to throw in pellets of waste with some stuff to make them go silly - this stuff they bought from Kirkuk or Baghdad. Later I managed to borrow a hook. and line and with grasshoppers caught 3 fish for supper.

Oct. 30 Reveille 3 a.m. marched 3.30 a.m, crossed Zab by bridge and advanced north parallel to Tigris - country undulating and not so barren looking - in places (esp. near Zab) beautiful crops of millet. Our horses were very glad to get any of it.

View from Malwiya tower showing Mosque and Samarra, 1909

6 inch 26cwt Howitzer & 10 Horses Mesopotamia 1918

October 1918

Passed over ruins of ancient Assur nothing left.

Reached army head by Tigris side. Turks having surrendered there were large numbers of them around in every direction - quite well dressed and many young strong men. A ferry (Shaqurwijah) was worked here by R.E. So concluded some very stiff fighting. The Jebel Hamrin which runs parallel to Tigris on West side from Fathah northwards formed an ideal fighting ground for Turks and he made the most of it but at last we managed it.

Main Ambulance arrived about 4 p.m. and set up Tents by Tigris side. At once ferry brought us 60 or more wounded Turks - my job was to record their names and injuries rather complicated business as no few knew Arabic and I had no Turkish. The Turk R.A.M.C. man was v. useful.

Slept in a small Arab cemetery as my kit was behind with R.E. my total kit consisted of one blanket - bit chilly en route bought fowl and had it for dinner.

Oct. 31 Reveille 5 a.m. Marched 6.30 a.m. 4 miles to a ford over Tigris which we had to cross - a most hair-raising experience - my horse nearly fell twice current was very swift several limbers were carried down - 8 horses were lost and 2 men, 2 men were saved.

En route Revnell was given a sheep we fed our horses on green corn. I travelled these days with 119 Ambulance as R.E. were split up - they made me very comfortable.

Heard prisoners reached 10,000 met a lot returning, picked up one wounded Turk quite by accident who had been stripped by his own people.

Caught up brigade and camped at an oil refinery, a Turkish hospital which we took over - evidently the place had been full of Germans, as papers, books etc. were all German - smell of oil very unpleasant -

Buried Lt. Vickers of 13 Lancers west of oil refinery. Kanjarah killed in charge which captured convoy. All our kit got very wet coming across the ford - one limber stuck in stream mules were nearly drowned.

At this point our brigade captured 1,300 Turks in addition to 1,000 day before and a large convoy - many animals, carts etc. with a great amount of grain.

The Turkish biscuit bread was a dark brown - very hard - but quite good when soaked in tea - we captured also steamer, one which tried to rush into Kut, it was full of food.

Nov. 1 Jolly good night - in Turkish blankets - warm for once - nights very cold - naphtha spring (smelt very strong).

Had to pack up Turkish wounded 50 for evacuation as best we could. We collared every kind of Turkish transport and tied on the animals which were running wild with all kinds of harness - string etc. - an extraordinarily funny sight - when waggons, etc. were full, we put anybody that could ride on ponies and sent them off down the road.

One told us that there must be something wrong with the horses or reins as he knew he could drive.

The houses at the naphtha spring were full of all sorts of kit-lots of evidence (papers etc.) of German occupation.

Nov. 1 Marched 8.15 a.m. - very long trek over more interesting undulating country did not reach camp till 6 p.m. about 30 mile trek. News of Turkish Armistice.

Hejern Ali sulphur spring.

Nov. 2 Advanced a few more miles camped on ridge 5m outside town.

Nov. 3 Marched on to Mosul.

Actually in bed when sun rose - first time for many a day.

October / November 1918

V. dusty trek, halted and camped just south of town, salute of guns fired at noon, from a distance Mosul looked quite an imposing place - by building on right bank of Tigris with a bridge across river partly masonry and partly pontoon - population seemed friendly.

Features of trek

(1) bad getting into camp in dark.(2) trotting at night in thick dust and dark a nasty experience.(3) in sprite of frequent charges by Hussars and both Lancers very few casualties. Hussars

had also one dismounted charge in which Sgt. Holloway was killed by an officer who had surrendered.The native regiment lost several drowned crossing the ford at Haduan also Hussars and M.G.S.

(4) Value of water - Tigris a wonderful old river:

The long march to save Cassells was about 50 miles.

Nov. 3 Service at evening at 119 F.A. with Revnell of thanksgiving.

River v. polluted below town, we were camped just below the town “dobi ghat” where hundreds of people were washing clothes.

Nov. 4 Rest in campGarnold R.C. priest came back with accounts of horrible dirt of town. Number of people came out to our camp with things to sell at extravagant prices.Col. Fry shot 7 black partridge for dinner.

Nov. 5 Rest in camp - walked with Revnell to our brigade H.Q. situated in a house just outside town.Our camp was in sight of ruins of across the river.

We had a visit from a Chaldean priest who told us of the horrible massacres in the neighbourhood. He acted as our marketeer.

Nov. 4 A Turkish band played outside H.Q,. and attempted God Save the King. The colours up here were very fine in the sky esp. sunrise.

Nov. 6 Very windy dusty day. Our Chaldean priest arrived early with figs, grapes, cheese, walnuts.My brigade consisted of

13 Hussars13 Bengal Lancers14 Jat LancersV. Batt R.B.A. and 16 M.G.S.Ambulance 119 C.C.F.A.Col. Fry C.O.Captains Norman, TirnardLieut. SavegeRev. Revnell - Garnold and Self.Brigade C.O. General Norton.

Still hot by day but cold at night. My captured Turkish blankets proved invaluable. River smelt v. much here of sulphur as well as of Mosul.

All the way up signs of bitumen and sulphur springs. At Qaijarah we were able to fill our lamps with excellent oil - smelt strong but gave good light.

Nineveh ruins

November 1918

From all accounts my brigade did very well by crossing the bad ford in the darkness they arrived in time to save Cassells brigade. Some very exciting accounts of crossing theford, some regiments had a very bad time crossing.

Representatives in Mosul of Chaldean. Syrian, Jacobites, Armenians - still living under fear of persecution and massacre.

Nov. 7 Another v. dusty day - food etc. full of it.

Nov. 8 A little rain during night - went off early with Chaldean priest to Mosul and had a most interesting morning visiting the churches, none seemed to be ancient. I had coffee and cigarettes with the Syrian Archbishop and the Jacobite and Chaldean ditto. All were extremely friendly we conversed as best we could in French and Arabic. Each was sitting in state and received all and sundry. The Syrian was esp. kind and showed me his manuscripts and his reception hall. At his school near all the children rushed round me to kiss my hand. The Jacobite had the best coffee.The Chaldean was sitting on a scarlet cassock. He seemed rather downhearted and thought the British might leave the town. I tried to reassure him. All the Christians in the town were very afraid of persecution.

Mosul itself was extremely filthy but the houses were very much better individually than those in Baghdad. All the doorways, lintels etc. were of marble. Practically no windows opened on to the very narrow little lanes. Inside the strong doors were courtyards and lots of marble garden fountains etc. The rooms I saw were very comfortably furnished. The Churches had no seats or chairs but cushions on the floor. Famine had been rife in the town and thousands had died.

Nov. 9 First snow on the mountains N.W. of us.

General Cobbe [see Oct. 23] Corps Commander visited our camp - weather turned colder and wet rations still short but Local Purchase Officer buying corn and meat.

Nov. 10 H.C. in hospital tent - all my equipment for altar was very much spoilt in crossing the ford - Morning service 10 a.m. and Evening 6.30 p.m.

Mosul was filled with filthily dirty people and Turkish soldiers who swaggered about armed.

An Armenian merchant upon whom I called told of the good name held by the British and how we were hailed as saviours. He told me of the terrible times they had all had under the Turks.

I made a point of calling on the Archbishop as the R.C. Padre has always tried to monopolize them but they were most glad to see me - I am afraid one at least retained the idea that I was a professor of theology of Cambridge Univ. instead of a B.A.

Nov. 11 Moved across the river. The bridge was partly pontoon and seemed v. flimsy and partly good masonry arches. We took over as a hospital a small building which had been a Turk bathing house. Our mess was in the doctors room which we made quite comfortable. The wards were in different rooms. All the house was of concrete so when once cleaned up was quite alright. There was also a boiler and apparatus for hot baths. The Turks had been forbidden to remove anything but had hoodwinked our people and taken away a lot of stuff.

Our sleeping accommodation was in 80lbs tents - Colonel & Revnell in one, Capt. Norman, Tirard & self in other. In afternoon I went into town to see what I could buy. I made arrangements for a daily supply of bread and bought cigarettes & onions & coffee & matches - all dear. I saw the Church of the Dominican Seminary and found it a very fine one but dreadful glass. The marble was local. Quite cold in afternoon and wet.

Our camp was just to the South of Sennacherib's palace and in quite nice surroundings a few trees quite reminded one of home. In the town there was a lot of a dessert for sale - figs, walnuts raisins, currants ate. and plenty of vegetables. We were told that directly the Turk had gone and the roads were secure lots of stuff would be brought down from the mountains. Fresh meat and corn for horses plentiful. Camel convoys were many.

Nov. 12 Heard news of Universal Peace at 8 a.m.

Shopping with Revnoll in Mosul - bought some local red wine - poor stuff.

Nov. 13 Went to Mosul to make arrangements about bread - before breakfast rode up to Sennacherib's palace - represented by a high big mound nothing to see of ancient Nineveh except mounds - Nabī Yūnus [lit. 'Prophet Jonah'] a village near supposed tomb of Jonah.Wet and cold weather - bad time for the men as they had no tents and short rations. Col. Fry added to our rations with his gun shooting black partridge, duck and pigeons.

Nov. 14 Wet - men having very wretched time - no tents - very short rations no jam, tea, sugar, milk - & 15 plenty of fresh meat but only green wood.

Mosul opening up - many more shops brought out stuff for sale when they saw we would pay. Town appallingly dirty.

Rode up to Nineveh Site marked by series of mounds. One large mound said to be palace of Sennacherib, inspected it but was very disappointed I saw nothing of interest.

Country up here much more interesting, hills in the distance, undulating country certain amount of trees about much greener and signs of more cultivation. The road past our hospital was one continuous convoy every morning camels, donkeys etc. all with heavy loads. People up here more handsome and human than in Baghdad.

Bought a poshteen [sheetskin coat] for 20 rupees to keep out the cold if it comes - most of local people had them.

Gen. Fanshaw issued stringent orders to local inhabitants about crime & dirt. Flies in Mosul beat all records.

Nov. 17 Combined Parade in Nineveh to celebrate Armistice - hymn sheets printed by Mosul Arab who could not speak word of English - first proof very funny.

During this week men's tents arrived - showery weather lot of snow on mountains. Shopping in Mosul most mornings.

Each evening 6.30 p.m. prayers in Hospital chapel.

Called on Mr. Saati a Protestant Armenian who showed me some interesting antiques from Nineveh.

Nov. 24 Services as usual in our Church room at the Ambulance.

Lunch with Revnell at Mr. Saatils house wonderful lunch - soup - mutton curry (rice with almonds & sultanas & chicken) 2 different kinds of pastry one like mince pie and an excellentdish like custard & junket, dessert & coffee & cigarettes.

Rain - shared 80 lbs tent with Capt. Tirard - our mess was indoors.

One mosque in Mosul said to contain tomb of Seth - Jonah's tomb at Nabī Yūnus. Our trek from Tekrut [Tikrit] to Mosul said to be 250 miles.

Quiet time - beautiful weather - hot sunny days - cool nights country round becoming green, good root crops, all people busy ploughing (very shallow) said it was good corn ground - few trees. Each morning I rode from 8 to 9 in different directions - met many Christian villagers - one shepherd boy showed me his little cross & medallion hung round his neck quite openly.

Country becoming much more settled - confidence gradually restored - roads crowded with convoys - camels - donkeys - horses loads of firewood & corn & straw - skins etc. Very wild people some of them - men with long hair and big sheepskin cloaks - all much finer than Baghdad people - more human not afraid to look or speak.

Gen Fanshaw told Mosul by public proclamation dirtiest place on earth - but gradually became a little less dirty. We Instituted local police - labour corps etc. Shops opening - traders going to Baghdad.

November 1918

Rafts (Kellek) being built - wooden framework on inflated skins - on these little houses built or tents pitched and piles of merchandize - Said to take from Mosul to Baghdad in flood season 3 days - low water around 10'.

Hussars sent 65 miles up left bank to speed parting guest day and half allowed - 40 miles first day and then to give 2 hours to Turks to clear out and leave loot behind.

13 Lancers similar job on right bank and 14 Lancers down south on left bank to Upper Zab river so my congregation quite small for a time - but held services as usual and daily evening prayers in the room given me as a Church in our hospital building.

Flies very bad at this season.

Most days went shopping in bazaar - my Arabic improved and I did most of the shopping - prices rushed up of course. Many picturesque spots in town but all exceptionally dirty

The welcome and relief of local Xians [Christians] town and country and also of Arabs made all our trek worthwhile - horrible local tales of cruelties of the Turk - local Engliah speaking doctor told us of his experiences with our prisoners.

Dec. 2 Usual servicesOwing to Brigade being scattered collection for Army Missionary Assoc. only 70 rupees.

Dec. 4 Most interesting trip by motor to Khidhr Elias [lit. Prophet Elijah'] - and Monastery of Mar Behnam - this lies about 20 miles south of Mosul on left bank country on route was undulating -large numbers of sheep a few cattle and horses - scattered villages.

The Mon. stands near a little hill on which is the tomb of Mar Behnam and his sister and 40 followers who died as martyrs. It is an ancient stone building, the oldest part said to date from about 350 A.D. It contains various sleeping chambers, stores, tanks for water underground, accommodation for cattle, all arranged so as to be possible for defence. The most interesting feature was the Church - the Sanctuary separated by large doors from the nave - so that the lattercould be quite cut off which it was when we were there some of our officers were living in following the Turks who had used it as a hospital.

The stone was marble and beautifully carved especially the doorways. There was a large figure carved on wall apparently representing St. George & Dragon.

Especially noticeable was the dovetailing of the arches

and of the lintels in form of star.

Mar Behnam Monastery

Figure of St. George and the Dragon, 1909

November / December 1918

The vaulting of the domes was also very beautiful and suggested petals of a flower.

The tomb of Mar Behnam was outside the Mon. on a little hill near - and approached by an underground passage. It was of beautiful marble finely carved. In the building was a circlet of iron on an iron chain - whoever sat all night with this around his head was said to be cured of sickness.

Our troops here were busy burying Turkish ammunition.

We came back via Karakush - the priests when driven out of Kidr Elias retired to Karakush - The Churches here were not old and poor as the Turks had robbed them. The priests were very pleased to see us and we wrote our names in their Visiting book.

On our way back to our motor we were met by quite a crowd - I told them that I was a priest of the English Church and they all pressed round to kiss my hand - much to horror of my Wesleyan friend. I was brought coffee of which I had to drink 3 cups. Finally I promised to come back and see them another day.

Dec. 9& 10 A good deal of rain - river rose 6ft. 6 in the day but pontoon held.

“Dobbie” women driven nearer to us they worked early and late and could be heard beating away on the stones from quite a long way off.

Dec. 11 Hard frost but beautiful sun during day.

Dec. 10 Called on Monastery of S. George 5 miles north - good building but inhabitants very old and deaf and blind - in the church saw a curious font - a round whole (like basin) hollowed out of marble slab - all under canopy much like “altar” tombs at home.

Each morning I rode from 8 to 9 and during day visited camp.

Hussars returned from Zakho after kicking Turks across frontier their march was 65 miles in 2 days.

Caravans increasing from mountains (which were covered in snow) many of men had long hair and looked very wild - all were picturesque than near Baghdad - camels had large bells and donkeys smaller.

Dec. 15 Commencing Dec. 14 21 gun salute fired by 336 R.F.A. up to 105 in honour of Mahommed's birthday. Revnell & I sent protest to P.C. Norton G.C. 7th C.B. protested to Fanshaw who said orders came from above. General indignation!

Note - amongst our Indian troops we had also Sikhs and Hindus.

Mosul a Xian centre.

Not done in India or in Egypt by troops serving under Egyptian government.

So British gunners paraded on a Sunday to salute for Mahommedans.

Local Xians astonished - the first Xmas Xians been on top for 100s of years.

Dec. 17 Visited Jonah's tomb in centre of mosque - large stone tomb covered with carpets - with Major Hay Of 13th Lancers - boots off and hands in front.

In morning visited Jacobite Archbishop who invited us to dinner on his Xmas day (12 days later than ours).

A wet spell.

Frosty weather but hot in middle of day. Helmets in sun still in centre of day.

Dec. 21 Dr. Norman sent me into hospital with jaundice.

December 1918

Dec. 24 Cable offering me Princetown found me in bed with jaundice.

Christmas in bed on nothing but milk.

Y.M.C.A. padre took early H.C. in our hospital church - I was allowed to attend - several were present and we had hymns which sounded well in our little Turkish building.

Dec. 29 Evacuated by motor ambulance convoy to Qajarah - track v. much improved since the advance but the gradients thro' the hills were very stiff for the cars - very cold on route.

Dec. 30 Qajarah to Bai-jie very comfortable C.C.S. very glad to get in as journey was long and cold.68

Dec. 31 At C.C.S. 19

1919

Jan. 1 In ambulance train to Baghdad. Arr. Officers Hospital 6 p.m.

Very comfortable but I was kept in bed.

Jan. 2 Received good news of passage home.

Rev. Cooke returned to England and was installed as Vicar of St. Michael and All Angels, Princetown, Devon in 1919

December 1918

Principal Chaplain,Mesopotamia.

- - - - - - - - - - -

Dear Sir,The bearer of this, the Rev'd H.R. Cooke, M.C. has been attached

to this (22nd) Division since October 18th 1915, joining in France, where he had previously been serving from May 12th, 1915.

I cannot speak too highly of the work Mr Cooke has done. He has worked almost entirely with the R.A. and his devotion and enthusiasm have gained for him a remarkable influence with both Officers and men.

May I venture to suggest that Mr. Cooke's powers and character fit him best for work in the front line, and preferably with gunners. There he is in his element, which he would not be if he were placed in any sort of “easy job”.

Mr Cooke is a man of great personal courage. He was mentioned in the Salonika Despatch of March 29th. 1917 for devoted work under fire on many occasions. This conspicuous bravery he has often shown again since the date of the despatch.

I hope you will not consider this a merely formal letter of commendation, I wish it to convey to you my unreserved and heartfelt appreciation of the spiritual work Mr. Cooke has accomplished, and the devotion he has shown, which I know will be continued in his new sphere of duty.

I may add that I am exceedingly sorry that Mr Cooke's service in this division is coming to an end; but I fully commend his application for a change, as the conditions and climate of the Balkans are, in my judgement, most enervating, and Mr Cooke has been with me six months longer than any other C.E. Chaplain in this Division.

I remain, Dear Sir, Yours faithfully,

H.Q., Douglas R. Pellyxxii Div. S.C.F., C.E. 22 Divn.4-xi-17.