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-1- MADE MADE IN IN ITALY ITALY Textile / Clothing / Fashion Textile / Clothing / Fashion Chain Chain Area Centro Studi Area Centro Studi September 2005 September 2005

The Italian Textile And Clothing Industry

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  • 1. MADE IN ITALY Textile / Clothing / Fashion Chain Area Centro Studi September 2005

2. THE ITALIAN TEXTILE AND CLOTHING INDUSTRY The Italian textile and clothing industry is unique, lively, innovative, and leader in the world. Its innovation ability representsits main and most lasting competitive advantage. The mission of the Italian fashion system lies in offering original, and very distinctive products, which meanwhile answer to consumers taste and meet his needs. This also implies a continuous improvement in technical performances of fibres, yarns, fabrics, and finishing. The success of the whole chain - from the first processes on fibres to fabrics, finishing operations, and final products for the market - is favoured by the interaction of a sophisticated manufacturing network, where the strength of each element is at the same time a condition and a function of the vitality of the whole system. This dynamic combination of productive, creative, and managing activities involves about 67,500 industrial companies with large, medium, and even very small scale operations. This unique mix still turns out to be the main point of strength of Italian T/C industry, whose about540,000 employeescontribute to roughly 10% of the manufacturing sectors added value. The strong export trend of the T/C industry is shown by the turnover share totalized abroad, amounting to 62% of total sales. The significantflow of exports ensures a foreign trade surplus of about 12 billion Euros, which compensate, to a large extent, the countrys deficit in energy and agriculture. Besides the value which can be measured in figures, Italian fashion, strongly founded on T/C, has enormously contributed to the definition of the ideas of Italian good taste and life quality, with positive effects onItalian products all over the world. 3. MADE IN ITALY FASHIONFIGURESIN2004 4. THE ITALIANTEXTILE/CLOTHING (T/C) SECTOR IN2004(in current millions of Euros) 5. THE WEIGHT OFT/C ON THE ITALIAN MANUFACTURING SCENARY IN 2004 6. ITALYSWEIGHTONTHEWHOLEEUROPEAN TEXTILE/CLOTHINGSCENARYIN2004 7. ANINDUSTRYWHERELARGEANDSMALL COMPANIESCOEXISTSUCCESSFULLY The international success ofItalian T/C has been favoured by the co-existence, on an equal status and importance basis, of large companies and SMEs. The innovation ability as well asthe attention to the quality of materials and processes characterize large concerns, whose brand names can be found in the shops allover the planet. Medium-sized enterprises are often world leaders in particular market niches, while small companies are specialized and excel in one or more specific production stages. The whole chain is made of about 67,500 enterprises, of which roughly 90% with less than 15 employees. 8. ENTERPRISES, EMPLOYEES AND TURNOVER IN THE ITALIANTEXTILE/CLOTHING SECTOR (2004) (*) 9. The T/C SectorsForeign Trade 10. THE ITALIANT/CSECTORSFOREIGNTRADEThe Italian T/C industry is strongly export-oriented: actually, more than 62% of the total turnover is achieved thanks to foreign markets. The figure of 26.6 billion Euros in foreign sales totalized last year represents 10% of the whole Italian manufacturing industrys export value.In 2004 net export reached 11.7 billion Euros, i.e. 31% of the whole manufacturing industrystrade surplus. Other fashion related products (such as shoes, goldsmithery, leather products, cosmetics and glasses) accounted for a further 10 billion Euros surplus. Thats to saythat theOil of Italy can roughly completely compensate for the countrys deficit in energy, food and agriculture. In 2004, the flows of Italian TC products towards European Union markets (15 countries) raised by 1.4%, while those towards the 10 new members decreased by 13%. Outside EU25 (which absorbed 54% of total Italian TC foreign sales), exports to USA (third largest market for Italian fashion system)recorded a drop of 2.6%, Japan lost 8.5%, while Russia (tenth biggest customer) was the most dynamic market (+11,2%). A significant increase was also recorded by exports to Hong Kong (+5,1%).On import side, China has furthermore consolidated its leadership position among top Italys suppliers (+13.7%).In 2003 Italy was the third worlds exporter of textile products (about 8% of the total amount), after China and USA, recording a CAGR loss (1995-2003) of roughly 1%. In 2003 among the main clothing exporters our country was placed just behind China, however showing a CAGR drop near to 2%. 11. FOREIGNTRADEFLOWSOFTHEITALIAN TEXTILE/CLOTHINGINDUSTRY (2004) The composition of Italian T/Cs trade surplus in 2004 12. TRADE PARTNERS OF THE ITALIAN T/C INDUSTRY IN 2004(in millions of Euros) The top 10customer countries The top 10suppliercountries 13. THEMAINWORLDSEXPORTERSOFTEXTILE PRODUCTS(1995-2003) 14. THEMAINWORLDSEXPORTERSOFCLOTHING PRODUCTS(1995-2003) 15. Thegeographyof the Italian T/C sector 16. THE GEOGRAPHY OF THEITALIAN T/C SECTOR This heritage of specialization and this network of relationship find a special form of organization in the so-called industrial districts, the Italian contribution to industrial organization models. Actually, the Italian fashion industry is located into an archipelago of specialized districts: Como for silk fabrics, Biella, Prato, and Vicenza for wool yarns and fabrics, Castelgoffredo for womens stockings, Carpi and Treviso for knitwear, Empoli for leatherwear, Pesaro for denim apparel, Grumello for buttons, Brescia for socks producing machinery, and so on. The close interactions between different companies, which in most cases are located in specialized districts, are case studies at the main universities and business schools all over the world as a model of successful industrial organization. Industrial districts are particular manufacturing structures, merging advanced technical and organisational solutions with the craftsman tradition which represents an importantspringboard for creativeness, allowing the quick production of prototypes, small production lots, and a large number of product variants. In some of these specialized districts, the T/C industry is a fundamental element of social relations, local culture and, of course, business practice. 17. Varese Como Bergamo - Brescia Mantua Biella - Novara Vicenza - Treviso Padua - Rovigo Modena - ReggioE. Teramo - Pescara Prato - Pistoia - Florence Arezzo - Perugia Bari Lecce Naples Milan WHERE MADE IN ITALY FASHION IS BORN 18. ITALYS MAIN T/C DISTRICTS (2004) 19. Retail systemand chain model 20. CONSUMER - INDUSTRYCOMMUNICATION: RETAIL The industrys attention to the consumers behaviour was favoured in Italy by the existence of an articulated retail system, with a significant presence of independent retailers. The need to modernize retail outlets is leading to a rapid evolution of the retail system towards more highly structured models with larger sales areas. The retail system of the early 21st century requires a stronger producer - retailer - consumer interaction, a new technology in communication as well as a new organisation of the T/C production cycle from the first yarn processingto the point of sale. In this direction is moving the huge flow of investments and reorganization projects underway in Italian companies all over the production pipeline. Retail channels in Italy, clothing items (2004)(% weight) Source: SitaRicerca 21. THECHAIN MODEL DESIGN INDUSTRY RETAIL VALUECROSSESONESINGLECHAIN :

  • TECHNOLOGY
  • INNOVATION
  • QUALITY/PRICE

HOW TO TURNTECHNOLOGYINTO ART IN ORDERTO TRANSMITTO CONSUMERSAN UNIQUE IMAGE 22. MADE IN ITALY FASHION SYSTEM AUTHENTICITY (Made in Italy) ORIGINALITY (From Renaissance to XXI century) TECHNOLOGICAL LEADERSHIP (The textile districts) EXCLUSIVENESS (Italian life style) QUALITY/PRICE RATIO (Value for money) ORGANIZATION EFFICIENCY (The chain model) 23. For further information : SISTEMA MODA ITALIA Economic Studies Dept. Viale Sarca, 223 20126 Milan Italy Ph. no. +39 02 641191 Fax no. +39 02 66103667-70 [email protected]