Transforming Science Into Dreams:Taking A Closer Look

by Agnes Meilhacwww.beautyterm.com

from the Greek “kosmetikos” or skilled at adornment

Cosmetics

“articles intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled, or sprayed on,

introduced into, or otherwise applied to the human body… for cleansing,

beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance”

FD&C Act

Cosmetics: Part of Our Culture and

Civilization

Global Overview: the Cosmetics Industry Today

The Worldwide Cosmetics Market 1993 – 2009Average annual growth rate + 4.2%

Source: L’Oreal estimates, September 2010

Market Structure and Size

Source: L’Oreal, 2008

Top 10 Global Cosmetics Companies:

55% Total Market Sales

Source: L’Oreal, June 2009

Main Business Segments

Source: L’Oreal estimates, 2008, excl. soap, toothpaste and razors

-External trade

-R&D and Innovation

-Advertising / sales ratio

Defining Factors

An Industry Geared Toward Exports

0%

10%

20%

30%

40%

50%

60%

70%

80%

90% EU27USJapanChinaGermanyFranceUKItalySpain

Size of exports in € by country relative to the size of the domestic market (2006)

Cosmetics Industry: R & D and Innovation

0

1,000

2,000

3,000

4,000

5,000

6,000

7,000

8,000

1980 1985 1990 1995 2000 2005

ChinaJapanUSEU27

Source: European Patent Office (EPO)

Progression in the number of patents published

Advertising Over Sales Ratio

0.00%

5.00%

10.00%

15.00%

20.00%

25.00%co

smet

ic

food

ph

arm

acy

wir

eles

s

com

mu

nic

atio

n

soft

war

e

sem

i con

du

ctor

life

insu

ran

ce

Advertising / sales ratio across different industries in the US (2005)

Cosmetic advertising expenditure = $2.2 bn (2005)

What Innovation? What Technology?

Waterproof mascara that does not run

Anti-dandruff shampoos

Face powder that eliminates shiny skin

Light-reflecting pigments concealing

shadows under the eyes

Sun creams (protection against harmful

UV rays)

Self-tanning products

Today’s Brands

Are Defined

by

INNOVATION(Handout p. 4)

Lexical Syntactic Rhetorical

Language of Cosm etics

Loan wordsNeologismsVerbs Verbal adjectivesBuzzwords

Present tenseActive vs. Passive ToneImpersonalImperatives

Metaphors, similes and metonymyPersonificationSuperlatives

Innovation: from Science to Language

The Language of Cosmetics: Scientific, Technical, Advertising or

Patchwork?

science /technology

advertising

(Handout p. 1)

Borrow ings Neologisms Buzzw ords&

catchphrases

Role of verbs

Lexical Features

What Makes the Difference?

Loan Words in Translation: Intentional Strategy

1. From another language (culturally-bound concepts difficult to translate)

2. From another field of expertise

Last resort for want of a better solution or preserving elements of SL culture -> flacon, ampoule, pipette, burette, crème, enfleurage, camouflage makeup, fondant (*)

Vinay & Darbelnet (1958):

The simplest of all translation methods to overcome a lacuna (gap), usually a metalinguistic one (e.g. a new technical process, an unknown concept)

-> stem cells, growth factor, DNA, free radicals, oxidative stress

MAT-CHRONO

Moisturizing emulsion

Enriched with moisturizing and instant-action mattifying agents, this astonishingly fresh-textured, fondant emulsion leaves skin looking ideally shine-free and feeling moisturized from the moment of application. Soft-focus pigments work to conceal the appearance of skin irregularities. The skin’s texture looks more refined.

http://www.lierac.com/UK/products/face/hydration/mat-chrono_hydrationanti-shine/moisturizingemulsion.html

UK

com

pan

y w

eb

sit

e “Fondant” Buttery, meltaway, vanishing, rich and creamy, divinely luscious, luxurious, sumptuous?

Mat-Chrono Émulsion

Moisturizing Emulsion

Exclusively formulated to prevent and treat shiny skin and enlarged pores, this cream for day time contains a Triple Action Complex that improves skin’s elasticity, regulates the t-zone and tightens pores. Oil-Free. $44.00   1.42 OZ

http://www.lierac-usa.com/Products/Mat-Chrono%20Emulsion.aspx

US

com

pan

y w

eb

sit

e

Linguistic Mutation orFrenglish / Denglish / Spanglish?

- Language evolves over time as usage changes.

- “... many borrowings enter a language through translation...” *

* Vinay & Darbelnet (1958)

Loan Words in Translation: Intentional Strategy

1. From another language (culturally-bound concepts difficult to translate)

2. From another field of expertise

Last resort for want of a better solution or preserving elements of SL culture -> flacon, ampoule, pipette, burette, crème, enfleurage, camouflage makeup, fondant

Vinay & Darbelnet (1958):

The simplest of all translation methods to overcome a lacuna (gap), usually a metalinguistic one (e.g. a new technical process, an unknown concept)

-> stem cells, growth factor, DNA, free radicals, oxidative stress

-   Aquacurrent Science: Moving Moisture Where It's Needed. Water is the universal solvent - central to life on earth and essential to overall health, beauty and wellness. While skin care and hair care products have traditionally focused on "locking-in" water moisture, the recent discovery of micro-channels underneath the skin's surface underscores the importance of releasing and channeling water to maintain healthy skin.

Aquacurrent Science by P&G

The Nobel Prize-winning discovery of aquaporins, proteins consisting of tiny micro-channels embedded in the skin cell walls underneath the skin's surface, is providing scientists with a new and better target to retain and enhance moisture in the skin.

Aquacurrent Science, inspired by the discovery of aquaporins, is the basis of unique product formulations that utilize the natural properties of water to help move moisture where it's needed for the best possible results.  Click below to learn more about applications of this innovative science.

http://www.pgbeautygroomingscience.com/aquacurrents.html=

Aquaporin Technology by DIOR

Dior adds a luxurious helping hand to dry, parched skin with their legendary HydrAction Collection—the ultimate moisturizing arsenal for normal, dry, and combination skin. From sorbet-light crèmes to effective refining treatments, Dior's skin-soothing secret weapon—Aquacapt™ Complex—helps reinforce your complexion's natural moisture reserves to keep it feeling soft and hydrated all day long.

2003

5 phrases for talking about HYDRACTION ?

Aquaporin

in 1 second, encourages the passage of 1 billion water

molecules

DEEP WITHIN:

Long-term hydration

ON THE SURFACE: Immediate hydration

The cells are brimming with moisture

Water circulation is activated, skin replenished with moisture

INTENSE AND ACTIVE HYDRATION TEST RESULTSafter only 1 application to the skin

+ 77% in immediate hydration

+ 30% in 24-hour hydration

Dehydration lines disappear, the skin feels suppler, refreshed, plumper, more luminous and comfortable.

200521 3

4 5

Activity

Loan Words: Borrowed from Science

•hydrate

- moisturize

•exfoliate

- scrub

•regenerate

- revitalize

dehydration, keratinization, detoxification, hyperpigmentation, comedogenicity, post-inflammatory response, phototoxic reaction, free radicals, antioxidants, trophicity, dystrophy, collagen synthesis, cellular metabolism, lipolysis, lipogenesis, sebum secretion, enzymatic trigger, glycation, keratolytic, extracellular matrix, dermis, epidermis, stratum corneum, etc.

CalquesVinay & Darbelnet (1958): A special kind of borrowing, resulting in either:

• A lexical calque (borrowed word translated literally): dermocosmetics, cosmeceuticals, mattify, photo-aging (short for photo-induced aging), de-stress, de-wrinkle...

• A structural calque (borrowed expression with each of its elements translated into TL): optical corrector pigments (pigments correcteurs optiques, Nuxe), head note (also: top note), heart note (also: middle note), palpate and roll massage (palper rouler), external aggressions (stress factors), cosmeto-clinical trial, barrier function, ...

Calques: Examples

de-wrinkle (FR: dérider): “L’Oréal Dermo Expertise Age Perfect Cleansing MilkEnriched with magnesium, known for its revitalizing properties and vitamin C known for its energizing properties, the formula:- -Helps to de-wrinkle the skin and reduce the signs of

fatigue in mature skin.- -Hydrates the skin”

de-stress (FR: déstresser): “Elemis Soothing Chamomile Cleanser is a hypoallergenic, cooling, cleansing milk that removes impurities and make-up whilst calming and de-stressing the most sensitive skins.

It is formulated with harmonizing extracts of German Chamomile that soothe and de-stress the skin. Good for extra sensitive, delicate and hormonal skin.”

The Alternative: Paraphrasing

FR: décongestionner eliminate / remove / clear embedded impurities and toxins, calm swollen areas

FR: désincruster deep-cleanse (unclog the pores)

FR: défatiguer revitalize, invigorate, stimulate

FR:désinfiltrer eliminate excess fluids, reducedégonfler puffiness, reduce edema/swellingdésengorger by improved re-absorption anddrainer drainage of retained liquids and

toxins, calm swollen areas (Nuxe)

Neologisms: New Word Formations / New Meaning

“newly coined lexical units or existing lexical units that acquire a new sense”

(Newmark, 2001:140)

Established: moisturizer / concealer

More recent coinages: bronzer, volumizer, luminizer / luminizing (YSL), highlighter, complexion-brightener (Dior), booster, corrector, crepiness, glide-on, cosmeceuticals, nanoparticulate, MYO-aging (L'Oréal), photoaging, dermobiotic (LRP), Lipo-Hydroxy-Acid or LHA (LRP for capryloyl salicylic acid),

Creative Compounding:Extensive Use in English Advertising

Languagebody-enhancing, body-sculpting, body-contouring, figure-slimming, FR: amincissant skin-tensing, slimmingshine-free acne-prone (instead of acneic)longer-lastingquick-absorbingbrush-onmust-havelight-reflecting, natural-looking

bring-along take-anywhereon-the-go (FR: nomade)radiance-boostingskin-liftingpore-clarifyinglipid-replenishing (FR: relipidant)

wrinkle-fillingfilm-forming (= filmogenic) pick-me-up (noun and adj) touch-upfatigue-busting (défatiguant)

Translating brand-specific concepts = translating culture-specific concepts (CSCs)

Possibilities:

Paraphrase: explain the meaning of the SL expression instead of translating it

Modulation: use a TL term that seems similar to or has the same "relevance" as the SL term

Loan / borrowing: preserve the SL term intact

Neologism: make up a new word

Brand-Specific Concepts: a Question of “Corporate Culture”

Venuti (1995):To domesticate or to foreignize?

The Never-Ending Struggle:Finding the Right Balance

- hypersensitive skin - intolerant

skin

“peau intolérante”

(Handout p. 5)

Venuti (1995):To domesticate or to foreignize?

The Never-Ending Struggle:Finding the Right Balance

- reflect light -hold

light

“fixer la lumière”

« Chaque harmonie se compose de six teintes, parmi trois familles de couleurs, spécifiquement choisies pour recréer un éclat sur mesure : - - Des couleurs correctrices pastel pour rectifier la tonalité de

la peau. Le vert atténue le trop de rose des teints clairs ; le rose dégrise les teints ternes ; le bleu déjaunit les teints fatigués ; le mauve fixe la lumière et éclaircit les zones d’ombres de tous les teints. »

“Each color harmony is comprised of six shades, from three different color families, which were specially chosen to recreate customized radiance: - Corrective pastel colors to even out skin tone. Green diminishes the excessive pink hue in fair skin; pink adds a healthy glow to a dull complexion; blue takes the yellow tone out of tired skin; mauve reflects / sets or holds light and adds brightness to shadowed areas in all complexions.”

Brand-Specific Choices:Combinations vs. Consistency

puffiness and swelling

puffy, baggy eyes

undereye bags

dark [ (under)eye ]

circles / shadows

puffy bagsunder eyes

Buzzwords and Catchphrases:Dynamic Equivalence in Action

anti-aging: age-decelerating (Clinique), age-defying, age-reversing, age-perfecting, age-deflecting, de-aging

anti-aging, the Baby Boomer version:pro-youth, pro-age, preserving, image extending, youth extending

Translation approach based on the “principle of equivalent effect” and tailoring the message to the receptor’s linguistic needs and cultural expectations… (Nida, 1964)

L’O

r d

e V

ie b

y D

ior

Product Benefits and Results:

Verbs and Verbal AdjectivesCus tomers do no t buy a p roduc t ; they buy the

benefi ts and resu l t s i t aff ords them.

“Up” verbs “Down”verbs

activate, boost, accelerate, energize reduce, diminish, lessen, decrease

ease, alleviate, soothe, appease, relieve attenuate, minimize, soften, erase

fortify, strengthen, nourish, nurture rid / free (the skin), eliminate, remove

stimulate, invigorate relax, de-stress, de-wrinkle

smooth, even out, plump up, firm mask, hide, conceal, disguise,

improve, enhance, emphasize fight, combat, battle

illuminate, brighten, suffuse with… de-emphasize

Verbs with the prefix –re (intention to produce a better

result): re d e s i g n t h e f a c i a l o u t l i n e s

re s t r u c t u re t h e i n t e rc e l l u l a r c e m e n t ,

re p l e n i s h m o i s t u re re s e r v e s ,

re n e w c o l l a g e n fi b e r s ,

re j u v e n a t e ,

re a c t i v a t e t h e s k i n ’ s re p a i r p ro c e s s ,

re t ex t u r i z e / re fi n i s h t h e s k i n ’ s s u r f a c e ,

re fi n e t h e s k i n ’ s t ex t u re ,

re g e n e r a t e d a m a g e d c e l l s ,

re b a l a n c e d e e p h y d r a t i o n ,

Product Benefits and Results:

Verbs and Verbal Adjectives

Participal / verbal adjectives (same form as the

participle of a verb)

-ing (properties/qualities): relaxing, stimulating,

invigorating, exfoliating, nourishing, deep-cleansing,

brightening, whitening, skin-lifting, pore-clarifying…

-ed (beauty results): relaxed, stimulated, reinvigorated,

exfoliated, lifted, plumped up, enhanced in appearance,

replenished…

Product Benefits and Results:

Verbs and Verbal Adjectives

Spotlight on Adjectives and Adverbs:

Extensive use of:

Evaluative /comparative adjectives:

“For the first time, there’s a remarkable gel that can give your

hair any look you want – sleeker, fuller, straighter, curlier,

more natural, even wet – without a drop of alcohol or oil.”

Adverbs (adjective or verb modifiers):

thoroughly moisturized / ideally hydrated skin, carefully

selected ingredients, expertly formulated skin care products,

beautifully youthful complexion, lastingly nourished, flawlessly

smoothed, intensely replenished, genuinely more even-toned,

etc.

Terminology Choices (Register)

Distinguishing features of language associated with variations in context and relating to the language

user (jargon) and/or language use:

1. fi eld = subject matter2. tenor = wr i ter-reader re lat ionship3. mode = formal / informal

efficacy (FR: efficacité) effectivenesstechnicity (FR: technicité) technical expertise

technical sophistication

superfatting extra rich, (FR: agent surgraissant, high-lipid, gel surgras) lipid-enriched

Presenttense,activevoice

Im perative,interrogative

and cond.sentences

Avoidanceof

negatives

Ellipsis(elliptical

sentences)

Syntactic Features

What Makes the Difference?For Future Discussion…

M etaphor,simile,

m etonym y

Personification Superlatives(hyperbole)

Euphemism s,semanticam biguity

Rhetorical Features

What Makes the Difference?For Future Discussion…

Thank you for your attention!

Agnes Meilhacwww.beautyterm.com