HAIR CARE

In a recent podcast broadcast by Euromonitor International, Oru Mohiuddin, the research firm’s senior analyst specialising in home and personal care, stated the hair care

category worldwide weakened from 5.5 per cent in 2012 to 4.9 per cent in 2013, yet it still performed better than other categories in beauty and personal care.

‘The hair care category is becoming increasingly segmented,’ she explains. ‘Manufacturers are moving towards targeting less explored hair care concerns, developing products with stronger scientific claims.’

The lines of professional hair care solutions and consumer or at-home care are becoming even more blurred. Like skin care, hair care products claiming professional or more technical benefits are now being tailored to tackle exact hair care problems. These include product innovations that provide lasting moisture with natural oils, address the health of the scalp, offer anti-ageing benefits, and repair damaged hair.

In line with this trend, Greentech, which is represented by Natchem in South Africa,

Untangling the opportunitiesHair care continues to remain the wonder category for breakthroughs in innovation and product development and is more robust than both the skin care and colour cosmetics markets. By Abby Vorster

24 Pharmaceutical & cosmetic review June 2014 www.pharmacos.co.za

HAIR CARE

launched Dandrilys – an antidandruff active that also combats itchy scalp. According to Greentech, around 50 per cent of people worldwide suffer from dandruff. Aesthetically speaking this is a critical problem as minuscule flakes drop onto one’s shoulders, presenting a somewhat ‘dirty look’. The appearance of dandruff is due to abnormal desquamation of epidermis cells at scalp level. Proliferation of the fungi, Malassezia enhances the phenomenon provoking inflammation from unpleasant itching, irritation or

excess sebum. Dandruff can also be triggered by stress, hormone imbalance or repeated scalp aggressions (like strong detergents, hair dyes, or permanent hair straighteners).

Greentech’s Dandrilys is said to be a strong solution to counteract dandruff, simultaneously restoring the self-esteem and confidence of consumers. It also pre-vents reappearance even after stopping with treatment. Thanks to its richness in saponins, Dandrilys is active in a number of ways:

• immediatemechanicaleffectowingtothe physical foaming action of saponins to remove dandruff

• long-termeffectofsaponinspostponesand limits dandruff reappearance.In February 2014 Frost & Sullivan

presented Greentech with the 2014 European Frost & Sullivan Award for New Product Innovation Leadership for Dandrilys. This potent, plant-based natural product mitigates scalp irritation, reduces dandruff, normalises sebum production and subsequently, facilitates the growth of healthy hair. The active is developed from the bark of Ziziphus joazeiro, an evergreen plant native to South America. The leaves and/or the bark of the plant produce abundant foam upon mixing with water. The detergency and foaming properties of Dandrilys have been proven to be 2.1 times higher than sodium laureth sulphate, a surfactant that is commonly used in shampoo and shower products. Furthermore, the sugar constituents of the ingredient comprise polysaccharides and oligosaccharides, which offer moisturising and calming effects to lower the irritation caused by dandruff.

Hair loss innovationsAnother sub-category of hair care sighted by Mohiuddin as offering increasing opportunity for product development is hair loss. Alopecia, or hair loss, is a condition that affects a considerable percentage of the population worldwide. In South Africa, it is estimated that more than 5 million people suffer from androgenic alopecia, one of the most common causes of hair loss.

Although alopecia can be linked to several factors, including genetic disease and the use of certain treatments and drugs, as well as stress-induced alopecia, it remains a condition which has not seen any significant breakthroughs on how to eradicate it.

According to Alfred Musper from Enna Industrial Ingredients, ‘millions of people worldwide seek professional treatments linked to hair loss each year. Yet treatment is costly, time consuming and inconvenient’. Certain treatments also have critical side effects, limiting their spectrum of use,’ he adds.

Breakthroughs in natural ingredient innovations have highlighted the super fruit pomegranate for its wide array of potentially healthy benefits, which are said to combat hair loss.

HAIR CARE

Musper explains: ‘Studies have long since established that pomegranates contain the strongest natural antioxidants found in nature and there is a proven correlation between the punicalagins, the polyphenol agent found in pomegranate, and protective radical-suppressing effects, such as LDL oxidation. Now, new research is showing that pomegranate can also inhibit MMP-9, a collagen-based enzyme that induces apoptosis in the hair bulb that leads to hair loss. Punicalagins can also metabolise in the human bloodstream into smaller, beneficial polyphenols such as ellagic acid, which acts as a hair growth stimulant. Pomegranate extract is easily absorbed by the bloodstream which stimulates the hair dermis faster and more efficiently.’

But there is more, Pomegranate extract can reduce prolactin production. Prolactin is known to cause apoptosis-driven hair follicle regression and by reducing its presence, it helps in neutralising its role in hair loss.

Enna offers Pomanox from Probeltebio which is a pomegranate extract standardised for punicalagins. It is said to be 100 per cent water soluble, with high bioavailability

hair pull tests with 20 randomly selected volunteers taking Pomanox nutritional supplements. Furthermore, there was an increased hair density after a period of 60 days of treatment, as well as an increase in the number of hairs in anagen/telogen phases along with the improved hair thickness.

Kumar Organics, which is represented in South Africa by Unichem, has also launched a breakthrough hair growth molecule to prevent hair loss and restore hair growth by acting directly on the hair cycle.

Kopexil Aqua, Kumar’s new water soluble composition, is said to have multifunctional capabilities that not only prevent hair loss but also stimulate new hair growth.

In an efficacy study carried out by the company, Kopexil Aqua exhibited significant reduction on 5-α reductase activity in DU-145 cells at the highest tested concentration. It blocks the formation of dihydro testosterone (DHT), which is said to be the main cause of miniaturisation of

In South Africa, more than 5 million people

suffer from androgenic alopecia, one of the

most common causes of hair loss

“

”and reduced caloric content compared to pomegranate juice. It is produced using fresh Spanish pomegranate fruit and is 100 per cent free of organic solvents.

Recent tests carried out by Probeltebio demonstrated significant improvement in

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HAIR CARE

hair follicles, by preventing the reaction of 5-Alpha reductase on the male hormone testosterone.

In an open label phase II clinical study carried out on 60 male subjects to evaluate the safety and efficacy of the water soluble compositions, along with a five per cent solution of an equivalent market sample, Kumar found Kopexil Aqua to be therapeutically more superior. Kopexil Aqua showed an increased mRNA value (12.6 per cent) as compared to the market sample (five per cent), which is related to hair growth.

At in-cosmetics 2014, Evonik launched a new active ingredient, Sphingony, which has also been developed to combat hair loss. According to the company, it prevents hair loss by addressing scalp health and rebalancing the life cycle of the hair.

Various in vitro studies have shown that Sphingony balances the hair cycle by inhibition of 5-α-reductase, improving the scalp renewal capacity, stimulating formation of essential building blocks like proteins and ceramides and by improving scalp health by equalising the microflora.

Extended in vivo studies have confirmed that Sphingony significantly prevents hair loss by prolonging the anagen growth phase of hair while effectively improving hair quality and scalp health.

Overall, Sphingony is a skin-identical molecule with highly scientific claim substantiation, which targets hair loss by balancing the hair cycle, strengthening the hair follicle and improving scalp health.

Straightening out a serious issueWhile ingredient innovations are central to the continued progression of the hair care category, consumers’ desire for permanent hair straightening solutions are marred with controversy and concerns of serious health risks.

According to Janine Wilson, technical manager of the Cosmetic, Toiletry & Fragrance Association (CTFA), although there are several types of straightener systems available on the market, not all systems are considered compliant with safety regulations. These include those developed for salon professional use and consumer use at home.

She adds, ‘It is important to understand there are different systems for the various hair products and the difference between regulatory compliant straighteners and Brazilian straighteners, which raise concerns around consumer safety as

CTFA – www.ctfa.co.zaEnna Industrial Ingredients – www.ennaii.co.zaEvonik – www.evonik.comNatchem – www.natchem.co.zaUnichem – www.unichem.co.za

they contain banned substances such as formaldehyde and formaldehyde donors.’

Hair products containing formaldehyde or formaldehyde donors are categorised as toxic in many countries including South Africa. ‘Despite this, hair technicians are administering products containing these banned and harmful ingredients to their own detriment and to the detriment of their clients and visitors to the salons,’ says Wilson. ‘These products release a gas when heat is applied to the hair in the form of straightening irons. This gas is dangerous to the lungs and is carcinogenic in nature. Certain brands have been known to include formaldehyde-free wording on their packaging when in fact the products contain alternative actives that release the same toxic fumes as formaldehyde containing products.’

The CTFA does not support hairdressing salon processes using formaldehyde or formaldehyde donor products due to the proven dangers and safety issues for consumers and technicians alike.