COSMETIC FORMULATIONFarzin Firozian PharmD/PhD

HANDS

• The stratum corneum of the palm is uniquely designed to withstand physical trauma

• Water destroys the resistive physical strength of the palmar skin• Hand blisters are more common when the hand is perspiring heavily• The palmar surface of the hand has numerous sweat glands, known as

eccrine glands• Palm sweating may occur in warm weather, but may also occur under

stressful conditions.

TRAUMA

• Callus(retained layers of keratin that form a dead skin)• Hammer• Pencil• It is dehydrated and inflexible and will fissure readily with trauma.• It cannot be repaired• since the callus is nonliving

THE DORSUM OF THE HAND

• The dorsum of the hand is thinner skin that becomes increasingly thinner with age.

• Elasticity• photoaged s• Irregularly pigmented leading to dark areas

known as lentigenes• This irregular pigmentation is also

accompanied by skin that is easily injured.• Senile purpura

FEET

• Feet constantly bear the weight of the body • They are forced into shoes• Spiked heel• The warm, moist, dark environment of the foot in the shoe is perfect for

infection of all types.• Especially between the toes.• The most common infection of the feet is fungal

TINEA PEDIS

• Between the fourth and fifth toes• Athletic individuals• Incidence of fungal infection increases with advancing age due to

deterioration of the body’s immune system. • Topical antifungal• Fungal infections of the nail require oral medication, usually for three

months.

PLANTAR WARTS

• Papilloma virus• Public pools, exercise facilities, dance studios, public showers, etc.• Basically any place where there is moisture and lots of bare feet.

HYGIENE NEEDS

• The feet need aggressive hygiene, not only to prevent infection, but also to control odor.

• Bacteria digest the sweat to obtain nutrition and reproduce. • Foot malodor is a much greater problem in persons with hyperhidrosis• warm socks and shoes• Good cleansing of the feet is a prerequisite to skin health• Eczema

NAILS AND CUTICLES

• Nails are made of nonliving keratin• Manicures, pedicures, artificial nails, nail polish application, etc.• The nail is a thin plate of nonliving keratin designed to protect the tip of the

finger and toes.• The nail is produced by a group of cells designated as the nail matrix that lies

approximately one-quarter inch below the visible nail.• The nail matrix cells are formed at birth and cannot regenerate following

injury. • A permanently deformed nail

THE CUTICLE

• The cuticle is a like a rubber gasket forming a watertight seal between the nonliving nail and the skin of the fingertip.

• Damage to the cuticle results in water, chemicals, or anything the hand touches reaching the nail matrix cells.

COMMON DERMATOLOGIC DISEASE CONSIDERATIONS

• The visible nail cannot be repaired.• only the growth of new nail can be influenced.• In most individuals, it takes six months to grow a new fingernail• One year to grow a new toenail.• Onycholysis• Onycholysis is usually traumatic in nature and is more common in individuals

who wear artificial nails.• Fungal infection

PEELING AND CRACKING

• Advancing age• This may be due to decreased blood flow to the cells of the nailmatrix • Nutritional• Biotin is necessary for hard nails and may not be properly absorbed• Oral biotin supplement

SCALP

• The nonliving hair abuts the living scalp• Sweat, sebum, nerves and hair follicles• It is important to recognize that healthy hair begins with a healthy scalp• The scalp has an abundant blood supply to provide the necessary nutrients

for hair growth.• The scalp also has numerous eccrine sweat glands and sebaceous glands. • These secretions provide nutrients for bacteria and fungus that can infect the

skin of the scalp.

CARE FOR DRY SKIN

MOISTURIZATION

• This is the ability of a preparation to increase the water content of the non-viable epidermis, that is the stratum corneum.

• Creams, gels and lotions• The skin scales become more pliable and transparent and therefore less

visible.A. Emollients: Application of a thin film of occlusive materials such as an oil or

waxes makes the skin feel soft and smooth.• Hydrocarbons, lanolin alcohols

B. HUMECTANTS• Hygroscopic materials known as humectants• Can draw water to the horny layer and hold it in the intercellular lipid matrix.• This water would come from the water in the finished formulation• Controversy• Solution of glycerol

• 10% increases TEWL• 15% decreased TEWL for up to 4 hours and reduced skin roughness• 98% will absorb water from the skin until it reaches a 30% active equilibrium

mixture when it exhibits its humectant properties

C: HYDROPHILIC MATRICES

• Hyaluronic acid• Colloidal oatmeal• A type of blanket which provides protection as well as moisture to the skin.

MOISTURIZER

BASIC COMPONENTS OF MOISTURIZING

• Moisturizing actives cannot be applied without some modification• Skin feeling tacky• They are formulated into cosmetic emulsions and microemulsions• Emulsifier• Milks, lotions, creams , clear gels and aerosol mousses

A GOOD MOISTURIZING FORMULATION

1. Non-irritant2. Easy to spread over the skin3. Easy to rub in without 'soaping up‘4. Able to leave the skin feeling soft rather than sticky5. Pleasantly perfumed

BASIC COMPONENTS

• Moisturizer(s)• Emulsifier system• Water• Preservative • Antioxidants if necessary

MOISTURIZING PREPARATIONS CAN BE CLASSIFIED INTO FIVE GROUPS

1. Day preparations.2. Night preparations.3. Hand and body lotions.4. All-purpose products.5. Barrier creams.

DAY PREPARATIONS

• Day moisturizing products tend to be light, oil-in-water emulsions• Designed to spread easily and rub into the skin quickly• Like liquid foundation creams• Vanishing cream system• High-quality stearic acid• Commercial triple-pressed stearic acid consists of a mixture of stearic and

palmitic acid with a tiny amount of oleic acid.

SOAP• Partial neutralization of the fatty acid (16-20%)• Triethanolamine or potassium hydroxide• The emulsifier system• The nature of the neutralizing base the degree of saponification will

determine the consistency and texture of the cream• Potassium hydroxide will produce harder soap than triethanolamine• Excess stearic acid was used• Thixotropic• Dimethicone

SECONDARY EMULSIFIERS

• Self-emulsifying glyceryl monostearate • Other nonionic surfactants such as polyethylene glycol esters • Fatty alcohol• Prevent any skin dryness which may result from use of the alkali-stearate

soaps

EMULSION STABILIZERS

• Carbomers • Fatty alcohols such as cetyl alcohol• Cationic surfactants such as stearalkonium chloride• Used to a lesser extent as emulsifiers

• Smooth skin feel after application

DAY CREAMS

1. Heat A and B independently to 75°C.

2. Add A to B slowly with continuous stirring.

3. Cool to 35 0C and add perfume.

MOISTURIZING MILK

1. Heat (A), (B), (C) and (D) to 700C independently.

2. Add (B) slowly to (A) whilst stirring thoroughly.

3. Add (C) followed by (D) whilst stirring.

4. Homogenize the mixture.5. Cool to 35°C add (E).6. Cool to 300C.

NATURAL ADDITIVES

• In the past decade the demand by the consumer for 'natural products' has increased.

• It is very difficult to develop a completely natural product.• Add small amounts of oils or hydroalcoholic extracts from plants and, less

often, animal extracts.

SPECIAL ADDITIVES/NUTRIENTS(VITAMINS)

• The dietary importance of vitamins is well established.• The most commonly used vitamins include E, A, C and panthenol.• Vitamin E (J/-alpha-tocopherol) is employed as an antioxidant/free radical

scavenger.• Reduce membrane phospholipid peroxidation• Peroxides are involved in the cellular damage caused during photo-ageing.• Vitamin E acetate, a more stable form

RETINOIDS

• All-trans retinoic acid or tretinoin• treatment of photodamaged skin• Renova, an emollient-based form of tretinoin, has received FDA approval for

the cosmetic treatment of ageing skin.• normalization of epidermal activity.• Formation of new collagen• Blood vessels• Reduction in pigmentary changes

VITAMIN A PALMITATE

• Help maintain the skin's barrier properties• Stimulating the epidermal cells to produce glycolipids• The latter are important in the formation of the intercellular lipid lamellar

structure.• It is important to note that this material is a photosensitizer and is

recommended for use during the night.• Recent developments suggest that aromatic retinoids could present a non-

irritant alternative to tretinoin.

VITAMIN C

• Ascorbic acid• Regulates collagen biosynthesis• Involved in the wound-healing process• It also helps to regenerate vitamin E• Scavenge free radicals• Ascorbic acid is claimed to inhibit the photo-induced damage of the skin.

PROTEINS

1. Hydrolysed protein2. Amino acids3. Proteoglycans• Feeling soft and smooth• The most popular types include collagen, hyaluronic acid, milk proteins, silk

proteins• Marine proteins

ESSENTIAL FATTY ACIDS

• Gama-Linolenic acid• Vegetable seed oils• Evening primrose oil (9-10%)• Borage oil (23-25%)• GLA is said to improve the skin's efficiency as a barrier• Increasing the suppleness and flexibility of the epidermis

ΒETA-GLUCANS

• Polysaccharide materials• Derived from natural oats wheat and baker's yeast.• They are chemically modified to make them water-soluble• Yeast BETA-glucans undergo partial carboxymethylation to form carboxy

methylated-p(l-3),(l-6)-glucan.• Wound healing• Reduce oxygen radical formation and stimulate the Langerhans' cells

ADDITIVES WHICH AID DELIVERY OF ACTIVES

• Marketing gimmicks• With a growing number of educated and demanding consumers they have

become a serious formulation tool.• Microcapsule: Microcapsules represent the oldest controlled-release

techniques utilized in topical formulations. They are composed of a hollow vesicle containing an active ingredient.

• Liposomes

• Niosomes

CYCLODEXTRINS

• Cyclodextrins are starch derivatives• A unique three-dimensional structure• They have the ability to incorporate other so-called 'guest molecules’ into

their cavity.• They reduce skin penetration• Thereby protect the skin from the undesirable properties of the active

material.

POROUS POLYMERIC SYSTEMS

• Porous polymeric systems act like human cells• Instead of being surrounded by a membrane wall they are open to the

external environment.• Allowing movement of molecules in and out• Release of the active ingredient occurs on the skin surface mainly by the

partitioning of the active between the polymer and the skin.

NIGHT PREPARATIONS

• Products which are supposed to be left on the skin overnight serve to provide vital

nutrients to the skin which may have been lost during the day.• Water-in-oil emulsions• Massage creams• Creams and viscous lotions• Less cosmetically elegant• waxes

WATER-IN-OIL SYSTEMS

• The continuous oil phase has direct contact with the skin and forms a protective film immediately without any detergent action.

• Water particles are trapped in the oil• The product is more resistant to being washed off• Such products have remained popular with people with dry skin.• Traditional night creams were originally based on the beeswax, borax and

mineral oil systems.

TODAY

• Other waxes• Vegetable oils and silicone oils• Volatile silicones such as cyclomethicone• Quaternary ammonium salts• Distilled lanolin alcohols are excellent water-in oil emulsifiers especially• A new range of silicone emulsifiers such as lauryl methicone copolyol• cetyl dimethicone copolyol

SILICONE EMULSIFIERS

• These can be used to produce stable water-in-oil formulations with up to 74% water with little or no waxes.

• Formulations exhibit excellent moisturizing properties combined with improved aesthetics.

1. Heat (A) to 75°C. Dissolve preservative in glycerol/water. Add salt.

2. Add (B) slowly to (A) whilst stirring.

3. Cool to 35°C, add perfume.4. Homogenize once the cream

has cooled to 25°C.

HAND AND BODY LOTIONS

• Similar in formulation to the day moisturizers• They are usually lotions and sometimes aerosol mousses• increasing the viscosity of the water phase with agents such as the

carbomers and cellulose derivatives.

1. Heat (A) and (B) independently to 75°C.

2. Add (B) to (A) slowly with continuous stirring.

3. Cool to 35°C, add perfume

THE FORMULA

• Contains a high level of the humectants• Glycerol and sorbitol• The distilled lanolin alcohols may be added to improve the barrier-forming

properties on the skin

HAND AND BODY LOTION

1. Heat (A) to 80C.2. Heat (B) until preservatives

are dissolved.3. Heat (C) to 80C and add to

(AB) whilst stirring.4. Cool to 35°C, add perfume .

THE FORMULA

• A cationic emulsifier• Smooth dry afterfeel• Castor oil derivative• Methyl cetate ricinoleate is used instead of mineral oil to give a non-greasy

product.• Methyl cellulose (Methocel E4M - Dow Chemical Company) is used to

increase the viscosity of the external water phase as described above.

JOJOBA HAND AND BODY LOTION

1. Heat (A) and (B) independently to 700C.

2. Add (B) to (A) whilst stirring

3. Cool to 35°C and add perfume

THE FORMULATION INCLUDES

• Jojoba oil which is a liquid wax as an emollient• Allantoin for its soothing properties

COCOA BUTTER LOTION

1. Heat (A) and (B) independently to 70C.

2. Add (B) to (A) whilst stirring

3. Cool to 35°C, add perfume

THE FORMULATION

• Uuses cocoa butter and lanolin oil, which is rich in cholesterol, to provide excellent emolliency.

• The emollient ester glyceryl tricaprylate caprate is a reconstituted vegetable oil that improves the spreading properties of the cream on the skin.

• An antioxidant should be included to prevent any rancidity

ALL-PURPOSE PRODUCTS

• All-purpose creams and lotions can be used as a moisturizer or a cleansing cream on the face, hands and body.

• Light texture and ease of spreading

SUN DAMAGE AND SUNSCREENPREPARATIONS

• How very different from not too long ago, when a suntan was the sign of an outdoor working peasant forced to struggle to live off the land.

• The peasant's skin became thick, leathery and brown.• In Victorian times, elegance and fashion dictated that skin should be white

and that brown skin was indicative of hard labour and poverty.• 1930s• A foreign holiday sporting• The whole Caucasian population desired the new fashion, tanned skin.

THERE IS SOME ELEMENT OF TRUTH IN THE BELIEF THAT A SUNTAN IS BENEFICIAL.

• There can be no doubt that the feeling of well-being it brings is real and of emotional benefit.• Sunlight promotes the synthesis of vitamin D• Reduces the symptoms of the modern ailment SAD (Seasonal Affective Disorder).

THE ADVERSE EFFECTS OF EXCESSIVE SUN EXPOSURE

• Skin cancer• The leathery wrinkled appearance of the skin of the

middle-aged Californian lady lazing beside her pool.• The pain of sunburn• The pain and redness are transient

THE ELECTROMAGNETIC SPECTRUM

• Our sun emits a constant flow of energy in the form of electromagnetic radiation

• The lowest energy radiation takes the form of electric and radio waves with wavelengths up to 105m

• The highest energy is represented by gamma and cosmic rays with wavelengths as small as 10-6nm.

• In the middle of this scale lies the region we call sunlight• lOO nm to 1000 nm

SUNLIGHT

• Radiation between lOOOnm and 750nm is the near-infrared, detectable as heat.• Wavelengths from 750 nm to 400 nm are observed as visible light• Between 400 nm and lOOnm lies the ultraviolet (UV)• Such as

• Sunburn, • Skin ageing• Tanning,• Photodermatoses, • Immunosuppression • Skin cancer.

EARTH'S ATMOSPHERE

• Absorbs virtually all wavelengths of electromagnetic radiation below 295 nm or thereabouts.• Cosmic rays•Gamma rays • X-rays

UV SPECTRUM

• Far-UV radiation (100-200nm)• UVC (200-280 nm)• UVB (280-320 nm)• UVA (320-400 nm)

UV C REGION

• This region is described as the germicidal UV because of its ability to kill single-cell organisms.

• Ozone layer• UVC radiation is both cytotoxic and capable of producing severe sunburn at

very low exposure levels

THE UVB REGION• UVB is often over-simplistically identified as UV-4B' for burning.• Contributing approximately 85% of summer sunburn reaction.• It is also responsible for the initiation of certain skin cancers• Photodermatosis,• Premature skin ageing• The generation of the photoprotective pigment known as melanin which

gives our skin its suntanned appearance. • On a positive note, UVB is also responsible for synthesis of vitamin D in the

skin.

THE UV A REGION

• UVA is often over-simplistically identified as UV-'A' for ageing.• Wrinkling and ageing of the skin.• Immediate skin pigmentation and delayed pigmentation• Delayed pigmentation being the tanning response.• UVA also contributes approximately 15% of the sunburn reaction which

occurs as a result of overexposure to summer sunshine.• Polymorphic light eruption (PLE), solar urticaria and chronic actinic dermatitis

(CAD)

UV A

• Several 'photo-active' substances can also produce abnormal skin reactions as a result of exposure to UVA light. • Skin cancer• Immediate pigmentation due to UVA develops after only a few

hours • Reddening • Tanning may or may not appear

TOTAL DOSE OFTHE SUNLIGHT RECEIVED

• Latitude• Altitude• Season• Time of day• Cloud cover• Atmospheric pollutants• etc

GLASS •UVB will not penetrate window glass• UVA may do so• Exposure to UVA may continue even when indoors or whilst driving

PENETRATION OF UV RADIATION AND INTERACTION WITH SKIN COMPONENTS

• Any molecule which is capable of absorbing light is referred to as a chromophore

• UVB penetrates only as far as the basal cell layer and possibly into the upper margins of the dermis.

• Most adverse effects of UVB arise from the absorption of it on the lower epidermis and basal cell layer• Keratinocytes• Melanocytes• Langerhans' cells.

UVA

• Will penetrate far deeper into the skin, penetrating through the epidermis and deep into the dermis

• Collagen and elastin• DNA damage• The deeper penetration of UVA into skin is due to the lack of suitable natural

UVA chromophores in the epidermis.• Only the bleached precursor of melanin is able to absorb UVA by an oxidative

reaction this leads to the immediate pigmentation phenomenon.

UVB

• The major epidermal chromophore is deoxyribonucleic acid (DNA)• In most cases this damage is corrected by cellular 'repair' mechanisms• But occasionally 'repair' is not 100% accurate• Malignant melanomas, carcinomas and solar keratosis

PENETRATION OF SOLAR RADIATION INTO SKIN

SKIN TYPES

• Individuals may be classified into one of six skin types, as described by Fitzpatrick:

I. Always burns easily; never tansII. Burns easily; tans minimallyIII. Burns moderately; tans graduallyIV. Burns minimally; tans easilyV. Rarely burns; tans profuselyVI. Never burns; deeply pigmented

FITZPATRICK

• Type I : Caucasian of Celtic origin• Type VI deeply pigmented, dark-haired Negroid races.• Type III is typical of 'normal' northern Europeans.• I and II, the amount of radiation required to initiate melanin production is far

greater than that which will cause erythema.• For skin types IV and above the reverse applies• Clearly the choice of appropriate sunscreen protective formulation by an

individual depends heavily on that person's skin type

THE CHOICE OF SUN PRODUCT

• With skin types I and II requiring considerably greater protection than skin types IV and V.

• The first priority of a sun product is to protect the skin from erythemal radiation and hence sunburn.

• Primarily against UVB wavelengths• If sun exposure is increased in this way, a sun product which provides only UVB

protection will actually allow the skin to be exposed to increased amounts of UVA radiation

• Products which screen against both UVA and UVB

SUN PROTECTION FACTORS (SPFS)

• It is predominantly, but not entirely, a measure of UVB protection.• The SPF is measured in vivo using human volunteers following a strict method.• New and widely used pan European method, The COLIPA SPF Test Method• The individual national methods were substantially different, which resulted in

differences between SPFs determined in different countries.• Manufacturers throughout the world have worked together to harmonize procedures• The lowest dose of UV that is needed to redden the unprotected skin (the minimum

erythemal dose or MED),

SIMILARITIES BETWEEN INTERNATIONAL SPF TEST METHODS

SPF TESTING

• The MED is defined as the minimum quantity of radiant energy of specific wavelength or range of wavelengths which produces the first unambiguous reddening of human skin, 24 hours after exposure.

• The ratio of the dose of energy required to produce a MED on protected skin (MEDp) to that required to produce an MED on unprotected skin (MEDu).

• Taking a simple example, a person using an SPFlO product will be able to remain exposed to the radiation for ten times longer than without protection

exposure time to produce erythema (protected skin)SPF= ________________________________________________ exposure time to produce erythema (unprotected skin)

ONE MUST BEAR IN MIND

• That a skin type I person will be protected for much less absolute time than a skin type IV person using the same SPF product

• Their greater sensitivity to UV radiation and therefore lower MED times

MEASURING SPF IN VITRO

• In vitro instrumental methods are widely used in the sun product development process to screen out potentially poor formulations early in the cycle.

• In vitro techniques can help to eliminate some of the biological variability of in vivo testing

• In situations in which lack of suitable biological end-points prevents the use of an in vivo technique

• UVA measurement for example• The physical absorbance of a sunscreen agent can readily be measured

spectrophotometrically

IT WILL NOT ACCURATELY PREDICT THE SPF!?

• Solvent effects • Rheological properties of the final preparation • The surface topography of the medium on which the sun product is spread

SIMULATED SKIN SUBSTRATES

• Skin replicas made from UV-transparent resin • The intensity of narrow-band UV irradiation transmitted

through the replica was measured using a broad-band UVB detector• Before and after product application.• This method was UVB-specific

FOR THE NEWLY EVOLVING SUN PRODUCTS CONTAINING SIGNIFICANT LEVELS OF UVA

SUNSCREEN• A textured UV-transparent adhesive tape is used as the substrate to which the

product is applied• Broad-band (UVB and UVA) light is directed onto the surface of the tape following

application of the test sun product• A scanning spectroradiometer is then used to measure transmission through the

product treated substrate in 5nm wavelength intervals from 290 nm to 400 nm.• Reflectance spectrophotometry • Skin• The UV radiation has to traverse the sunscreen film twice, whilst scattering at

the skin's surface may also occur, makingmeasurement very complex.

MONOCHROMATIC PROTECTION FACTORS FOR THREE SUN PRODUCTS.

MEASURING UVA PROTECTION

• For a long time, educated opinion was that whilst UVB was clearly harmful UVA was 'safe' or even advantageous.

• UVA is now implicated in many serious adverse effects in skin. • Unfortunately, the biological effects of UVA all tend to be chronic• Uses UVA radiation to induce erythema in either patients with clinical

photosensitivity to UVA light, normal volunteers with chemically (psoralins) induced photosensitivity or normal volunteers exposed to high doses of UVA light.

• Dubious ethics

A SECOND IN VIVO METHOD

• Utilizes an immediate photo-oxidation reaction in type III and type IV human skin

• Brown-coloured reduced melanin or pre-melanins are converted into their blue-grey oxidized forms.

• The minimum dose of UVA energy necessary to generate the first perceivable pigmentation forms the basic unit of measurement.

SUNSCREEN AGENTS

1. It must absorb UV light over a broad or specified part of the spectrum without any chemical breakdown which would lead to a reduction in efficacy or the production of toxic or irritant by-products.

2. It must possess suitable characteristics to allow it to be readily formulated into cosmetic vehicles and should be absorbed easily into the skin.

3. It must be resistant to removal by water or sweat.4. It must not require too-frequent re-application to be effective.5. It must be highly effective at low concentrations.6. It must be non-toxic, non-irritant and non-sensitizing.

ORGANIC SUNSCREENS• P-Aminobenzoic acid (PABA) and its derivatives.

• UVB• Still popular in the USA• Uncommon in Europe

• Cinnamic acid esters• Salicylates

• Octyl salicylate:its absorbance being far less than PABA or cinnamate derivatives of equivalent concentration

• It is often used as a synergist• Homomenthyl salicylate (homosalate): It is used as a standard in some SPF

determinations in vivo.

CAMPHOR DERIVATIVES

• 3-(4-Methylbenzylidene) camphor:• Widely used in European countries as a UVB

sunscreen• Sunfilter photostability• This camphor derivative is reported to have superior

photostability• Improve the photostability of other filters

• Menthyl anthranilate• Employed as a UVA screen • USA• It is not permitted in Europe.

• Benzophenones: frequently employed as UVA screens.• Dibenzoylmethanes: These materials are the most commonly used UVA

absorbing materials, particularly in the EU and USA where they have been allowed.

• Octocrylene: This is a relatively new sunfilter which is allowed in both the EU and the USA

• Water-soluble sunscreens: 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid is a UVA screen and 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid is a UVB filter

ABSORBANCE OF A SELECTION OF ORGANIC SUNSCREEN MATERIALS.

INORGANIC (PHYSICAL) SUNSCREENS• A physical sunscreen is an inorganic compound which has

radiation scattering and reflective properties due to its physical form. • Talc, mica, kaolin and metal oxides• Zinc oxide is often used in pharmaceutical creams and

ointments, use as a sunscreen lies in its good light-barrier properties, which extend across the whole of the UVA and UVB wavelength range and, indeed, the visible spectrum. • May result in a white appearance of the product on the skin.• This led to the very white sunblock products which found favour

for skiing and other outdoor sports.

TITANIUMDIOXIDE AS A PHYSICAL SUNSCREEN

• Titanium dioxide has similar light-scattering and reflective properties to zinc oxide, thus preventing the transmission of UV and visible radiation.

• Its cosmetic acceptability and usefulness have been dramatically improved by the manufacture of micronized forms with much smaller particle sizes than standard pigmentary forms.

• Pigmentary titanium dioxide used in the paint industry and in colour cosmetics contains large particles in excess of 200 nm in diameter.

• Products which contain such low particle size material no longer reflect visible light and so do not appear white on the skin.

ITANIUM DIOX-IDE EXHIBITS LOW REFLECTION OF VISIBLE

WAVELENGTHS AT PARTICLE SIZES OF ABOUT50 NM DIAMETER

• As the particle size decreases further, the amount of UVA radiation reflected decreases.

• Commercial grades are available down to about 15 nm and these give very minimal skin whitening whilst retaining fairly broad-spectrum protection.

• Most UVA light is then transmitted.

PARTICLE SIZE EFFECT OF PHYSICAL SUNSCREEN MATERIALS

THE GEL STRUCTURE IS IMPARTED BY THE CELLULOSE WHICH CAN ALSO BE ADDED TO A

SOLUTION OF ALL INGREDIENTS IN THE ETHANOL WITH STIRRING UNTIL GELLED.

O/W CREAM CONTAINING INORGANIC SUNSCREEN

HAIR SHAMPOOS

INTRODUCTION

• Washing the hair and scalp• Shampoos are probably the most widely used hair products today• Based on synthetic detergents they are relatively insensitive to water

hardness• In the early days a shampoo could be defined as an effective cleansing agent

for hair and scalp, but today the shampoo must do much more.• It must leave the hair easy to comb, lustrous and controllable.• Being convenient and easy to use

REQUIREMENTS OF A SHAMPOO1. To remove sebum (the secretion of the sebaceous glands) and atmospheric

pollutants from the hair and scalp.2. To remove the residues of previously applied hair treatments, e.g. polymeric

constituents from styling lotions and hair sprays.3. To deliver an optimum level of foam to satisfy the expectation of the user.4. To leave the hair in a satisfactory condition after rinsing so that it can be

combed easily both in the wet and dry state.5. To perform as a vehicle for the deposition of beneficial materials onto the

hair and scalp.6. To be non-toxic and non-irritating to the hair and the scalp.7. To be non-damaging to the tissues of the eye if inadvertently splashed.

CLASSIFICATION OF SHAMPOOS

• Shampoos are usually classified according to function:• Anti-dandruff shampoo• Medicated shampoo• 2-in-l shampoo• Mild baby shampoo• Basic beauty shampoo• Premium conditioning shampoo.

HAIR SOIL

1. Sebum, the oily secretion of the sebaceous glands.

2. Proteinaceous matter arising from the cell debris of the stratum corneum layers of the scalp, and the protein content of sweat.

3. Atmospheric pollutants and residues from other hair-care products.

SEBUM

• Fatty acids of sebum may well be linked to the protein surface of hair through calcium atoms.

• Squalene is a triterpene containing four unsaturated -C = C- bonds. it is the biosynthetic precursor of lanesterol.

1. Oily soil or sebum2. Soluble soils3. Insoluble particulate soils.

THE PROCESS OF SOIL REMOVAL

• All three types of soil require to be wetted• The surface tension of the water is reduced by the shampoo surfactant allowing

full contact with the soil's surface.• Soluble soil is removed in the aqueous medium.• Oily soil or sebum is removed by a process known as 'roll-up', i.e. the

displacement of the soil by the detergent solution.• Insoluble particulate soils tend to be removed by electrostatic repulsion between

the soil and the hair fibre assisted by repulsion between the surfactant molecules adsorbed onto the hair fibre and those dissolved onto the soil.

MYELENESIS

• Through a microscope• When a layer of lipid material, even

material of low polarity such as fatty alcohols, is immersed in water.

• These appear to function like pipes, transporting the lipid progressively into the bulk water phase.

• In that region the former surface lipid coexists within the micelles

SUMMARY OF CLEANSING

•The rheological properties of sebum exert a strong influence upon soil removal•Detergency plays an important role in the cleaning of hair with shampoo

THE FOAMING OF SHAMPOOS• The 'signal' to which the user responds when applying a shampoo is how

quickly it builds up lather and how copious that lather is?1. The rapidity with which the foam is formed2. The peak volume of the foam3. The consistency of the lather• A high-consistency foam is judged as being 'creamy'. • The shampoo formulator needs to be able to measure the important foaming

properties• Interfacial tension and film modulus

ROSS AND MILES

• A standard volume of shampoo solution is transferred to a tap-funnel.

• The solution in the funnel is run in a standard time into a large measuring cylinder which already contains a set volume of the solution, or merely the dilution water.

• Volume

THE QUANTIFICATION OF THE CONSISTENCY OF FOAM (CREAMINESS)

• Hart and Degeorge method • 200 mL of shampoo is added to a blender to and agitated

produce foam. • The foams are introduced to a 0.5 mm mesh at the top of a

funnel(182 mm * 23 mm)• The time which foam reached to a wire in 80 mm of funnels end

is recorded.

SHAMPOO INGREDIENTS

• Main detergents• Foam boosters and stabilizers• Opacifiers• Viscosity modifiers, including hydrocolloids and electrolytes• Special additives for hair condition• Special additives for scalp health, including antidandruff additives• Sequestering agents

MAIN DETERGENTS• These are classified according to the way in which they ionize.• Class 1: Anionics

• Alkyl sulfates• Alkyl ether sulfates• Sulfosuccinic acid mono and di-esters (sulfosuccinates):

• The mono-esters are very mild• Good foaming and detergent properties• The di-esters are superior for their wetting properties• Since they are sensitive to hydrolysis and are difficult they tend to be

used in conjunction with alkyl ether sulfates to produce mild shampoos.

ISOTHIONATES

• Isothionates are exceptionally mild to skin and eyes, and are particularly tolerant to hard water.

CLASS 2: NONIONICS

• Materials in this class are not usually the major ingredient of a shampoo.• Co-surfactants• Rheology modifiers • Solubilizers for insoluble components such as fragrance

oils

CLASS 3: AMPHOTERICS• These are defined as having both anionic and cationic charges in

the hydrophilic head. • The isoelectric point lies between the two extremes at a position

where the two charges are equal.• Zwitterion• Does not behave as a surfactant. • Amphoterics are compatible with all classes of surfactants.• Beneficial effects on foam and viscosity can be demonstrated

and there is also a synergistic effect on mildness.

CLASS 4: CATIONICS

•The surfactants in this group are normally incompatible with anionics, and, therefore, are unlikely to be used in shampoo systems.

THICKENERS

• Sodium chloride is a suitable additive for a large number of formulae

• A sulfosuccinate has been used as a primary detergent• polyethylene glycol diesters are much more effective.• Hydrocolloids such as polyvinyl alcohol or cellulose derivatives • Glucose esters can create difficulties with their rheological profile,

but do enrich the foam characteristics and reduce irritation.

PEARLIZERS AND OPACIFIERS

• Opacifying materials give the shampoo a creamy appearance• A pearlized effect can be created by glycol distearate• A hot process and inconsistencies are inevitable• Concentrates• Latex opacifiers do not have the sparkle of the pearlizers, but

are used to obtain a flat opaque appearance.

PRESERVATIVES

•Liquid preservatives may be easier to incorporate•challenge testing and stability•The isothiazolinones or parabens are frequently used

PH MODIFIERS

• The isoionoic point for the hair fibre lies between pH 5.6 and 6.2.• It is advisable to balance the pH of the formulation to within this range.• Citric acid is typically used to achieve this.

FUNCTIONAL ADDITIVES

• Functional additives are those which promote good condition of the hair.• Hair in good condition is easy to comb both in wet and dry state. • The dried hair should be free from 'flyaway', and be lustrous and

manageable.• Polyquaterniums• Silicone additives

SILICONE ADDITIVES

• Dimethicone copolyols• Antistatic properties• Amodimethicones• Amine salt linkage with the free carboxyl groups of the

hair surface

PROTEINS AND AMINO ACIDS

• In recent years the trend has been towards vegetable-derived materials• Wheat, soya, maize or almond• It has been shown that protein derivatives can influence the mechanical

properties of hair fibre• To do this there must be penetration into the cortex or some indirect effect

on the cortex.• The ability to do this will vary depending on size of molecule and charge• Quaternization of the protein or amino acid reduces the ability to penetrate

into the hair fibre, but increases the substantivity to the cuticle

CERAMIDES• About 0.01% of total hair weight• Their purpose is to bind the cuticle cells to the cortex and perform a 'barrier'

function• Natural ceramides have a specific stereochemical configuration and show

optical activity.• This structure is essential for functionality.• Synthetic ceramides• Increased protection against UV and visible radiation and limitation of the

loss of water-soluble polypeptides are observable benefits.• Phytosphingosine

PANTHENOL

• The provitamin of pantothenic acid or vitamin B5• Vitamin B5 is essential for normal hair growth• Panthenol has also been shown to improve body and

texture of hair together with a moisturizing capability.

GLUTAMIC ACID

•Glutamic acid derivatives are the subject of a Unilever Patent• These derivatives are a source of hair growth energy• Significant linear growth stimulation can be obtained• Penetration enhancers

ANTIPERSPIRANTS AND DEODORANTS

• This segment has grown so quickly that it now has sales volumes of well over $2.4 billion in the United States

• £300 million in the UK• From the late 1800s, actors and actresses started experimenting with

solutions of aluminium chloride to make them nicer to be near under the spot-lights in their heavy theatrical costumes.

• In 1888, MUM was launched in Europe using zinc oxide as an antimicrobial ingredient in a cream base. This product controlled odour but not wetness.

ALUMINIUMCHLORIDE SOLUTION

• By the early 1900s• Astringent• A pH range between 2.5 and 3.0• Irritation of the skin and considerable fabric deterioration

SELF-BUFFERED ALUMINIUM CHLORIDE COMPOUNDS

• Known as basic aluminium chlorides or aluminium chlorohydrates.• Had an internal buffer that maintained a pH of approximately 4• It was formed by neutralizing some of the acidity of aluminium chloride with

aluminium.• Al2(OH)5Cl • 2.5H2O• Had advantages of being less irritating with less fabric destruction than

aluminium chloride

SODIUM ALUMINIUM CHLORHYDROXY LACTATECOMPLEX

• In the mid-1950s• In a sodium stearate-based deodorant stick. • Although this material provides deodorant properties due to

its antibacterial action• It has insufficient antiperspirant effectiveness, and is not an

approved active per the Antiperspirant Drug Products Monograph of the Food and Drug Administration (FDA).

QUICK-DRY ALCOHOL-BASED PRODUCTS

• Alcohol-soluble ACH (aluminium chlorohydrate propylene glycol complex) •Non-aqueous liquid formulations

ANTIPERSPIRANTS VS. DEODORANTS

• Most people use the terms 'antiperspirant' and 'deodorant' interchangeably• An antiperspirant actively reduces the amount of underarm perspiration.• In the USA, an antiperspirant is classified as an over-the-counter (OTC) drug,

since it has an effect on a bodily function, namely, eccrine sweating.• Such products are regulated by the FDA• In the UK, an antiperspirant comes within the definition of a drug• These products are not subject to 'medicines' legislation at the time of

writing.

DEODORANT

• A deodorant masks and/or reduces axillary odour through the use of an antimicrobial agent or a fragrance.

• Deodorants have a non-therapeutic effect only and are regarded as cosmetics

• It should be noted that a 'deodorant' is not an 'antiperspirant', but an 'antiperspirant' is automatically a 'deodorant'.

• Aluminium salts have bactericidal properties (Section XVI in the FDA Monograph)

• The labels of antiperspirants display the dual description 'antiper spirant/deodorant'.

APOCRINE GLANDS

• Develop during childhood and function with the onset of puberty.• These glands are present in the axillae and urogenital regions• Their excretory ducts open into hair follicles.• The secretion from the apocrine glands is the result of emotional stimuli such

as excitement, anger and fear.• It is a milky substance that primarily consists of fatty acids, cholesterol, and

various steroids

ODOUR

•Decomposed by micrococci and diphtheroid bacteria naturally present on the skin surface.• 3-methyl-2-hexenoic acid.

MECHANISM OF ANTIPERSPIRANT ACTION

• Many different theories have been proposed to explain the mechanism involved in the reduction of sweat after the topical application of an antiperspirant product.

• The most widely accepted theory of the antiperspirant action is that of diffusion of the soluble antiperspirant active ingredient into the sweat duct

• Slow neutralization of the acidic metal salt• A gelatinous and insoluble polymeric aluminium hydroxide-protein gel which acts

as a partial obstructionat the orifice of the sweat gland • Reducing, but not stopping, the flow of axillary perspiration.

EFFICACY STANDARDS

• The Monograph states that in order for an antiperspirant to be labelled as such it must meet a minimum of 20% sweat reduction in at least 50% of the test population.• Hot room study or an antiperspirant effectiveness study • The basic protocol indicates that gravimetric measurement

of axillary perspiration rates be conducted in a hot room at 1000 F (37.5°C) and 35% relative humidity.

EFFICACY

• Most roll-ons and sticks based on approximately 20% of ACH exceed this standard.• The introduction of aluminium zirconium chlorohydrates in the 1970s produced a

sharp increase in effectiveness.• Roll-ons and solids based on 20% AZCH provide a 25-40% increase in perspiration

reduction compared to similar ACH-based formulations. • Even higher levels of efficacy can be achieved with activated AZCH in powder form

- solids, roll-ons or soft solids. Sweat reduction levels of 50-60% can now be achieved.

• In the case of the aerosol, the original powder-in-oil suspension reduces perspiration by 20-30%,

PROOF OF EFFECTS CLAIMED

• PROOF OF EFFECTS CLAIMED is a new requirement in Europe• Advertising and label claims 1. PERFORMANCE2. MILDNESS3. FEEL4. ONSET

PERFORMANCE

• ‘UNBEATABLE WETNESS PROTECTION', 'MOST EFFECTIVE FORMULA', 'NONE BETTER' and 'MAXIMUM PERFORMANCE‘• They must now be supported by hot room efficacy trials of the total formulation.

PERFORMANCE - DURATION

• 24 hour protection• Antiperspirant testing at an independent laboratory • Involves a final sweat collection approximately 24 hours after the final

product application• 'ALL-DAY PROTECTION', 'DAY-LONG FRESHNESS', 'WORKS ALL DAY', 'KEEPS

YOU FRESH ALL DAY'

MILDNESS

• Justified by the exclusion of known irritants such as alcohol• The careful selection of non-irritant perfumes• The inclusion of emollients or other known skin-friendly ingredients• pH BALANCED• Which may reassure the customer but has no scientific basis since• The pH of APDs is generally dictated by the pH of the active• All the actives currently used have a pH between 3.8 and 4.4

FEEL

• NON-STING• Alcohol is a primary irritant and is the source of the

stinging sensation.• Excluding alcohol from the formulation will reduce the

level of stinging• The addition of emollients or aloe, allantoin, etc.

FEEL(NON-STICKY)

• Stickiness is a function of formulation and drying time• All water-based formulations will feel more or less sticky during

the drying phase• In quick-dry formulations, alcohol and volatile silicones

accelerate drying • Oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsions • Anhydrous formulations where the active goes on dry - aerosols,

solid sticks, soft solid suspensions - are truly non-sticky.

BODY RESPONSIVE

• Antiperspirant actives are inert in dry form and react with perspiration only when they are dissolved by it• Eccrine sweating is triggered by excessive body

temperature and the resultant sweat dissolves the antiperspirant deodorant active

VOC

• VOLATILE ORGANIC COMPOUNDS• Propellants, solvents, and non-solvent/non-propellant

volatile organic compounds• High volatility organic compounds, i.e. a compound that

exerts a vapour pressure greater than 80 mmHg at 20°C• Medium volatility organic compounds

PRODUCTFORMS

• Roll-on• Aerosol• Solid (stick)• Gels• In terms of marketing, the aerosol had the greatest impact because of its

hygienic and shareable advantages.• In the USA it seems that customers like solids, gels and soft solids because

there is no waste

ACTIVE INGREDIENT FORMS

1. Aqueous solution (concentrations up to 50% in water for ACH and 46% for AZCH)

2. All forms of powders (various particle sizes and shapes)

3. Propylene glycol solutions.

POWDER TYPES

• Macrospherical powder is composed of relatively large, dense spheres and a minimum number of small particles (10% less than 10 microns) for aerosol use and low-residue solids.• Super ultrafine particles• Suspension sticks and suspension roll-ons

• Spray-dried powder• Widely used in aerosol suspensions

CREAM

• Heat A and B separately to 700 ˚C

• Slowly add B to A with continuous mixing

• Cool to 400 ˚C. • Add C• Homogenize and pour into

suitable containers

STICKS AND SOLIDS

• Deodorant sticks are typically based on sodium stearate as the gelling agent for either propylene glycol or alcohol.

• They also contain an anti-microbial agent, humectant and perfume.

• Combine A and C and heat to 70˚C• Add B and D mix until clear• Cool to 65°C. • Add E Pour into suitable containers at

60˚C

STICK ANTIPERSPIRANT DEODORANTS

• Add B to A. Heat to 65-75°C• Add D• Add C, mix until clear• Add E, mix until clear. Cool to 60˚C• Add F• Pour into suitable containers at

55°C CHLORACEL: SODIUM ALUMINUM CHLORHYDROXY LACTATE

FORMULATION AND EVALUATION OF DEPILATORIES

INTRODUCTION

• Chemical means of hair removal from skin (in particular superfluous hair occurring on the face, legs, axilla, etc), without causing any injury to the skin

• Other methods of hair removal1. Mechanical removal of hair 2. Destruction of hair by use of laser energy 3. Shaving

MECHANISM OF ACTION

• Hair is composed primarily of proteins (88%)• These proteins are of a hard fibrous type known as keratin• Keratin proteins form the cytoskeleton of all epidermal cells• The amino acid cysteine is a key component of the keratin proteins in

hair fiber• The sulfur in the cysteine molecule links together by disulfide chemical bonds• These disulfide chemical bonds linking the keratins together are the key

factor in the durability and resistance of hair fiber to degradation under environmental stress

MECHANISM

• They are largely resistant to the action of acids but the disulfide bonds can be broken apart by alkali solutions

• Care should be taken• Preparation reacts with the hair preferentially• Its effects will be sufficiently rapid

• To cause disintegration of the hair, before causing any damage to the underlying and the surrounding skin

THE QUALITIES OF AN IDEAL DEPILATORY SHOULD BE AS

FOLLOWS: • Non toxic and non irritant to the skin • Fast and efficient in action, preferably causing depilation within five

minutes • Preferably odourless • Should be stable upon storage • Non-staining/damaging to the clothing • Cosmetically elegant

FORMULATION OF DEPILATORIES

• Alkaline reducing agent(s) • Perfume(s) • Emulsifier(s) • Emolient(s) • Thickening agent(s) • Humectant(s) • Miscellaneous agent(s)

ALKALINE REDUCING AGENT• These agents will cause the hair fibres to swell and cleave the cystine

bridges between adjacent polypeptide chain• Sulphides

• Barium polysulphide was the first agent to be used and later• Orpiment: As2S3

• Produce rapid depilation• Lime

• Nowadays sodium sulphide has replaced with other milder agents• Strontium sulphide has a milder action than sodium sulphide, but needs to

be used at a much higher concentration• Sulphide containibg depilatories are less popular nowadays because they

produce the odour of hydrogen sulphide on application

STANNITES

• Cu2FeSnS4• Stannum• Soluble stannites• Stannites offer the advantage that they do not have an appreciable odour but

they tend to suffer from instability• Forming stannates in the presence of water• A number of stabilizers, such as soluble silicates, triethanolamine, sugars,

etc.• But were not found to be effective and did not produce stable preparations

SUBSTITUTED MERCAPTANS• These are the most widely used agents nowadays and are used in

conjunction with calcium hydroxide• Thioglycollic acid in the form of its alkaline salts is the agent of

choice• It is a common practice to blend sodium and calcium thioglycollate

usually in ratios of 1:2 or 1:3 (Na to Ca)• Calcium hydroxide, present in excess, serves to control the pH and

also acts as an alkali reservoir• The solubility of calcium and strontium hydroxides and thioglycolates

might be a problem in some cases• Thiolactic acid, thioglycerol

PERFUMES

• Particularly sulphides, generate the odour of hydrogen sulphide on application• The use of perfumes is almost a necessity in depilatory products• The perfume materials used are aromatic alcohols, ketones, anise, safrol

and rose

Emulsifiers• The common emulsifiers used are mainly ethylene dioxide ethers of fatty

alcohol soaps• sodium lauryl sulphate and other anionics are rarely used for reasons of

cosmetic elegancy and potential irritancy

EMOLLIENTS • The common emollients used include mineral oils and paraffins

Thickening agents • Synthetic thickening agents, such as methyl, hydroxyethyl or carboxyl

methyl cellulose, are used• The earlier formulations employed the use of materials such as zinc

stearate, talc, colloidal clay, titanium dioxide, starch, precipitated chalk, etc.

Humectants• Humectants such as glycerine, sorbitol, propylene glycol, etc.• Incorporated to prevent quick drying on the skin

ENZYMES

• Protein-digesting enzymes, such as papain (found in the fruit and leaves of the paw-paw tree)

• Progressive depilatory• It acts pro gressively on hair growth over a period of many months• The treatment is repeated for 3 days at a time on the face, and for 5 days

on the body

EVALUATION OF DEPILATORIES Tensile kinetics method

• In this method, stress decay caused by disulfide bond reduction is measured• Tensile strength tester• The time required to reduce the stress supported by hair by 95% (T95%)

was shown to correlate to in-vivo hair removal rate in commercial products

Thermo-Mechanical method• In this method a thermomechanical analyzer is used to measure

the time at which a hair bundle, underconstant stress and immersed in depilatory, begins to stretch

• Tension probe• The test is carried out under isothermal conditions

THERMOMECHANICAL ANALYZER

DEPILATORY POWDER

• Dissolve the menthol in perfume oil• Add some starch to it by rubbing• Sift the titanium dioxide and barium sulfide

together• Then mix and sift the remaining starch• Next add it to the menthol-perfume

mixture• Mix the entire batch for about half an hour,

and then pack

Formula % Titanium dioxide 23 Barium sulfide 35 Wheat starch 40 Menthol 0.2 Perfume 1.8

DEPILATORY PASTE

• Dissolve methyl cellulose into water and mix glycerine with it

• Sift strontium sulphide and talc into the above mixture

• Slowly and stir thoroughly, until a smooth paste is obtained

Formula % Strontium sulphide 20 Talc 20 Methyl cellulose 3 Glycerine 15 Water 42

DEPILATORY CREAM

• Heat (A) to 90ºC, hold with sheer agitation for 20 minutes. Cool to 75ºC,

• Add premelted (B) Gradually cool, continue the agitation to 55ºC.

• Add (C). Product will thin out upon adding (C).• Gradually cool to 40-45ºC, with agitation and

add the fragrance and mix

DEPILATORY LOTION

• Slowly add magnesium aluminium silicate to the water, while agitating at maximum available shear. Continue mixing until smooth

• Add (B) to (A).• Heat (C) to 70ºC, then add with stirring. Cool

to 45ºC, add Calcium thioglycolate and stir.• Add Calcium hydroxide, stir until cool and

uniform• Add (E)

WARNING TO CONSUMERS• Manufacturers advise consumers to conduct a skin test 24 hours before full use• If irritation occurs during treatment or within 24 hours, use should be

discontinued• Advice given is that the depilatory should not be used on eyebrows, near eyes or on

inflamed or broken skin; and not immediately before or after using soap, deodorant or any perfumed product

• If any adverse skin reaction occurs, the consumer is advised to remove the cream

• Bathe the area with a solution of 1 part lemon juice/vinegar to 7 parts of water• Cream depilatories are left on the skin for 4-10 minutes for fine hair, arid up to 15

minutes for coarse hair

SUGARING

• The latest method of hair removal to find its way into beauty salons• An ancient art used for centuries in African and Arabian countries• The hair is removed by using a small piece of specially formulated putty-like

substance consisting of sugar, lemon juice and water.

ADVANTAGES CLAIMED FOR THE SUGARING PROCESS

• The 'ouch' factor is lower than from conventional waxing methods because only small areas are treated at a time, and the treatment becomes less painful after only a few sessions.

• Sugaring removes the top layer of dead cells from the skin's surface, leaving it silky and smooth

• After a short period of use the growth of hair becomes sparse and with continued use has been known to stop altogether

• The ingredients are all natural which reduces the risk of allergies and any related problems for sensitive skins

• It is more hygienic because the sugaring pieces are discarded after use

SUGAR RECIPE• Add the lemon juice to the sugar mix and

heat for 10 min or until the sugar is caramellized to a golden brown

• Remove from the heat then add the glycerol• Apply in strips, when cool enough• Cover with strips of cloth or cellophane and

press down• When ripped off as fast as possible the hairs

come off embedded in the strips• This is suggested for use on the legs

Granulated sugar 500 gJuice, 1 lemon Glycerol 7 mL