New Hampshire Mushrooms:A Tiny Slice of NH’s Mycological Bounty

A workshop on foraging wild mushrooms with Will Hopkins

A Few things to know right off the bat about me:

• I am a mushroom geek, I am not a mycologist, I do not have a degree in this. I have principally learned wild edible mushrooms from books, forums, and websites.

• While I have led friends and small groups on forays, this is the first time I have done so formally, or prepared a presentation.

• I took my first mushroom workshop and began foraging five years ago- In that time, I have eaten over 20 varieties of wild mushrooms, I have never gotten sick, had to go to the hospital, or seen anyone else get sick from a variety I have fed or taught them.

• That is really all I am. This presentation has been peer reviewed by a professional forager who leads workshops regularly in Pennsylvia.

• This is a scary subject to learn about, I would not be holding this workshop if I did not feel like I can safely teach you to identify the varieties we are covering.

About Foraging Wild Mushrooms• According to the North American Mycological Association, less

than 1% of North American Mushrooms are poisonous• In a Study of mushroom poisonings in Poland, where mushroom

foraging is much more common than here, of 457 hospital visits involving wild mushrooms, 87.5% of sickenings were caused by EDIBLE varieties, these were usually harvested at high temperatures, and carried in plastic bags for more than three hours, improperly cleaned or cooked, or stored for more than two days. Only 5.3% of all cases required hospitalization. NEVER EAT RAW WILD MUSHROOMS-ALWAYS COOK.

• Read More here: http://www.wsj.com/articles/safe-mushrooms-cause-most-poisoning-cases-1436793802

Mycophobia!•According to the American Journal of Botany, there are an estimated 5.1 MILLION species of fungus on earth.•Species of Fungus are thought to outnumber plant species 6:1.•Mushrooms Demystified, the holy bible of mushroom identification covers over 2000.•Mushrooms of Northeast North America, the suggested text for this class only covers a little over 600 species.•From Penicillin, to Psilocybin, to Amanitin, fungus contain a veritable pharmacopeia of chemicals: Some can indeed be dangerous.

BUT!!!

• There are a great number of species and groups of species that are delicious, plentiful, and safe- all you’ve got to do is learn how to differentiate. Mushroom hunting safely is about attention to detail.

• In the end- the final ID is always on you- be 100% sure-don’t be reckless… and don’t sue me!

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Your Own Body• As the chemicals differ greatly from mushroom to

mushroom, understand that allergic reactions, and individual intolerances to mushrooms, do happen. It is a good idea to start with a very small amount of a new variety. Get comfortable, and make sure your body and each species agree with each-other.

• Depending on the levels of digestive enzymes in your system, some mushrooms may remain in your stomach for up to three days, so any unexplained stomach upset for three days following may signal a variety you don’t get along with.

A bit out of order: How to make a spore print.

•Cut or remove cap from stem, and place the cap, gills or pores down on a piece of paper, it is helpful to have white and black, so a white spore print will still show up. Aluminum Foil works as well as paper, better for white spores.•Cover the cap with a bowl or something to keep the spores from blowing away.•Set the cap aside for an hour or so (we did this out of order to leave time for a good print at the end of the PowerPoint).

Tools of the trade.

• Basket: keeps mushrooms from getting squished in transit.

• Scissors: always cut, never pluck your mushrooms, the “fruit body” is the reproductive mechanism of a much larger organism that can be damaged if you pluck;select a sturdypair.

Tools of the trade (Continued)• A pocketknife: sometimes you

just want the margins of some mushrooms, especially polypores, sometimes scissors can be cumbersome, a good pocketknife can be very handy.

• A brush: for cleaning off dirt, leaves, bugs, and other particulate before putting a mushroom in your basket

Is there a simple rule I can follow to keep me safe?

• NO! Rules will get you killed!• The most deadly mushrooms take 14 days or more to kill (Amanatin)-

so even feeding them to your cat is not a safe way to tell.• There are a few poisonous species that grow on trees.• Don’t even talk to me about applied kinesiology.• “But I heard that if you put a mushroom in boiling water that if the

water doesn’t turn black…” -Really, are you trying to win a Darwin award?

• You need to know what species you are eating, and how to tell it from it’s look-alikes. Period.

• Okay, I don’t think there are any deadly shelf mushrooms, but still…

Why do we cut and not pluck? What is the 10% rule?

Edibility and Difficulty • I like to put mushrooms into one of five types of edibility.

– Edible: NEVER EAT ANY WILD MUSHROOM RAW-ALWAYS COOK! Watch out for allergic reactions and individual intolerances.

– Inedible: the majority of mushrooms fall here, they don’t necessarily have dangerous compounds, but that doesn’t mean you WANT to eat them. Some are molds, or woody-fleshed- some taste horrible, or start self-digesting (autolyzing) into a nasty goo the minute you pick them- not necessarily dangerous, but certainly not safe to eat- inedible mushrooms are just not something you want to put in your mouth. Anything that in a field guide does not say edible, poisonous, or deadly, is usually inedible.

– Toxic/poisonous: These mushrooms contain compounds that will likely make you ill in one of a number of ways- most just make you barf, some can cause severe sweating, temporary paralysis, diarrhea, temporary psychosis, or organ damage. Any toxic or poisonous mushroom has the potential to kill you.

– Deadly: Only a small handful of species are deadly, and none kill 100% of the time- the worst of them can take up to fourteen days before causing cascading organ failure and a long painful death. Deadly mushrooms are those that have a high likelihood of killing you.

– Psychoactive: Most field guides qualify psychoactive species as toxic or poisonous.– I will also give each mushroom a difficulty rating of Green Circle(easy or beginner), Blue

square (intermediate or use caution), black diamond (expert only), or double black diamond (microscopy and/or expert identification required). This rating system is based purely on my opinion- take it with a grain of salt.

Know what to avoid!

Especially when you are adding a new species to your repertoire, reviewing the deadly species often is a good idea. Wikipedia has a fabulous list of mushrooms that have been associated with fatalities. Know the deadliest species and genera that way if you ever do screw up, it will be a night of barfing rather than a funeral… White spored toadstools make up most of the deadliest fungi, so saving those until you are comfortable and well versed might be a good idea.

Here are some genera to avoid:

The Genus AmanitaWhile several delicious edibles like Amanita Caesarea and Amanita Calyptrata do exist, the Genus Amanita accounts for approximately 95% of all mushroom fatalities. Members of this genus are for experts only and

avoiding it is a great first step toward safe mushrooming.

•Amanitas are strictly terrestrial; it is very rare even to see an Amanita on a long-decayed mossy log. •Amanitas do not grow in bouquetlike clusters, though it is not unusual for several specimens to grow in a tight group. •Little bits of tissue (often called "warts") adhering to the cap's surface is a trait common to many species of Amanita. •Commonly the edge of the cap is noticeably striate, most of those species have either warts on the cap or a cuplike volva around the base of the stalk. The volva should be considered a warning, for the most notoriously poisonous Amanitas exhibit this structure. Note that the volva is often hidden down in the duff on the forest floor.

The Genus Amanita Continued• Many Amanitas also have partial veils covering the gills of

young specimens; these are more-or-less membranous tissues that extend from the upper stalk to the edge of the cap at first, and later end up appearing as a skirt- or ring-like structure on the stalk.

• The gills of an Amanita are either entirely free from the stalk rather than attached to it or attached only by fine lines.

• Most Amanitas' gills are white or pallid, though some species have gills that are either entirely yellow or that have yellow edges.

• Every Amanita produces a white spore print.• Symptoms of poisoning , primarily liver failure, from this

genus can be delayed for 14 days or more.

The Genus Clitocybe

• Soft Fleshy and Pale spored, Clitocybe has no species of significant culinary value save for the blewit (Clitocybe Nuda), and a few that can be dangerous, it’s best to avoid the whole genus.

• Stalk is central, and the cap tends to turn upward when mature creating a funnel shape.

• There are over 200 known species of Clitocybe. The grow on the ground or on extremely well decomposed wood.

The Genus Clitocybe continued

• Before you start eating white spored toadstools (other than the Chanterelle which is very distinct) you should have a good idea what a Clitocybe looks like.

Clitocybe Dealbata: Potentially Deadly

Clitocybe Rivulosa: Potentially Deadly

The Genus Lepiota

• Lepiotas are white spored, the gills are free from the stalk, a soft ring remains around the stalk where the cap separated from the stalk during the growing process, the stalk is central to a round cap, and they tend to have shaggy or scaly edges.

• While Macrolepiota Procera is a popular edible, but like Amanita Ceasarea it is best kept for experts.

• Chlorophyllum resembles Lepiota, but has a green spore print, most species of Chlorophyllum are poisonous.

Brown Spored Toadstools

• While many species of brown spored toadstools are highly prized by photographers, none are all that highly regarded as edibles, and members of Conocybe, Cortinarius (pictured in this slide), Inocybe, and Galerina can all be deadly.

• Brown spored toadstools should be avoided.

Worthy of note:

• Every deadly species we have discussed so far has a green, white, or brown spore print.

• Every deadly species we have discussed so far grown on the ground, or in herbivore dung.

• Every deadly species we have discussed so far is gilled and has a central stalk.

• The next few will be reviewed a second time as we discuss the mushrooms I am focusing on.

Other Highly Toxic Varieties

• Gyromytra Esculenta- The False Morel• Schleroderma Citrinum and other Black-Fleshed

Puffballs• Tricholoma (presents similarly to Clitocybe)• The Genus Paxilus (Look for a rolled over cap

margin)• Red-Pored-Blue Bruising Bolettes (spongey

bottomed)

The Four Varieties I taught in Early Summer Mushrooms:

• Black Trumpets• Morels• Chanterelles• Lobster Mushroom

Black Trumpets!

Black Trumpets/Craterellus Fallax• Craterellus Falax(black spored)/Craterellus Cornocopiodes(white

spored): similar taste, texture, and appearance. Both choice edibles.• Vase shaped• Outer edges curling outward• Thin rubberery texture• Season from early July through first frost• Growing in duff on forest floor• Older forests are preferred.• Damn near impossible to screw up- only look-alike is devils urn.• Spectacular with curry.• Also known as Trompe de Morte/ Trumpet of Death/Horn of

Plenty/Black Chantrelle/

Look-Alikes?

• Saprobic (wood growing) Devils Urn is inedible, won’t probably even make you puke, but not an edible. Sometimes the wood is buried, so be careful. Upper edge grows inward, and shape is cupped, tough leathery flesh. Far less common.

Morels: The Genus Morchella!

• All members of the genus Morchella are considered choice edibles, they are the first prize of the spring, and are usually found in NH in the month of May.

• Mainly the morels in NH are of three varieties, black (Morchella Elata), yellow(Morchella Esculenta), and half-free (Morchella Semilibera)

• Morels sell for up to $300/lb- they are reportedly heavenly- I wouldn’t know…

How to tell it is a Morel•Hollow inside (one large hollow opening)•Honeycomb structure in a candle-flame shape•Cap connected to stem

Poisonous Gyromytra•Cottony fibers in stalk or compartmentalized hollowness.•Cap only connects at top

Gyromytra, or false morel is one of the other mushrooms that frequently results in fatalities, a vertical slice is the best way to make sure that what you have is a true morel.

If you do not find the honeycomb structure, the hollow inside, and the general flame-like structure, toss-it, no mushroom is worth dying for.

Also watch out for stinkhorns, they won’t kill you, but you would not enjoy them- most grow in the late fall, but a quick sniff should let you Know you don’t have a morel if the hefty stalk And season don’t. Stinkhorns are covered in smellySlime.

They say…

• The best way to find a morel, is to look on burn sites, and under apple, elm, and ash. Older or dead trees are the best, as the roots breaking down is the favorite substrate. The ash from bonfire or forest fire help with substrate ph.

• When soil temperatures hit 50-60 degrees• Near where you have found them before.

Chanterelles!

Season: Hottest part of the summer, mid-July to mid-August.

Hallmarks of a Chanterelle

The not-so-highly regarded False Chanterelle

The Poisonous Jack O’Lantern

Is it a Chanterelle?• Is it growing solitarily or in pairs with no more

than two from a single stalk on the ground in mixed or coniferous woods?

• Does it have an irregular, not perfectly round edge?

• Do the gills fork near the edges of the cap and blend smoothly into a thick stalk? False Gills (rounded, and not fully separated like a button mushroom)

• Does it look like this ->• If all yes, eat it!

Hypomyces Lactiflorum: The Amazing Lobster Mushroom!

• Hypomyces Lactiflorum is a mold that grows on white-fleshed mushrooms, primarily Russulas, and a few Lactarius species.

• Many field guides call for the exercise of caution- as it is difficult to identify the substrate fungus.

• Hypomyces Lactiflorum is widely eaten all over the world, there has never been a recorded sickening or death.

• Some believe this is because the mold only grows on edible species, others believe that the mold metabolizes toxins rendering the substrate mushroom edible.

• It’s totally up to you, whether or not you want to risk it, I feed these to my family regularly and they are sold at farmers markets in New Hampshire and all over the world.

YUM!

How do I tell if a mushroom has been infested?

• A mushroom that has been infested by hypomyces lactiflorum will be bright orange, and have a crisp, brittle shell. The inside will be white.

• They are best on the day of a rainstorm, while the substrate mushroom remains firm, and you can cut without the mushroom crumbling.

• Do to their mysterious edibility, I only eat them when the orange shell has covered the entire mushroom.

• Go great with seafood or in stir-fries, really tough to screw this one up.

Late Summer Mushrooms

• White Puffbals (Many Species, all Edible, primarily Lycoperdon and Calvatia)

• Chicken of the Woods (Laetiporus Sulphureus and Laetiporus Cincinnatus)

• Hedgehogs (Hydnum Repandum and Hydnum Umbilicatum)

• Boletes (Several Genera)

White Puffballs

How to Identify Edible Puffballs

• Puffballs are a favorite for beginners wanting to try something that is very easy to find and make a solid ID with. This is an area, where there are simple rules to follow. One simple rule once you have established you have a puffball actually.

Establishing you have a puffball.

• Puffballs are generally round or upside-down pear shaped, growing on the ground or very well decomposed wood. They tend to like sandy lawns and pastures- anywhere you find grass, you may find puffballs. Some have “gem studded” skin, or roughness, but there are no appendages.

• This is not a puffball--

Now, slice your puffball from top to bottom.

• The inside should be pure white, like a marshmellow.

• If there is black, in the center or throughout, you have a schleroderma, these are poisonous, toss it.

• If there is yellow bleeding, the mushroom is too old to eat, toss it.

• If there is black speckling, toss it (probably found this on well decomposed birch? Not a puffball.).

• If you see the outline of a toadstool, this is an unopened or immature toadstool, likely an Amanita, toss it!

DON’T EAT THESE!

Chicken of the Woods

Chicken of the Woods

• Laetiporus Sulphurous and Laetiporus Cincinnatus are similar species both known under the common name Chicken of the Woods, a single find might yield as much as ten pounds of this polypore.

• They grow on many different types of wood, usually at the base of trees, or along downed trees.

Appearance is Variable

Halmarks

• Growing on decaying wood• Orange or pink(especially when young)• Lightening near tips (usually)• Underside does not have gills or teeth• Can present in shelf or fingers• Shelves or fingers relatively thin (3/4” seems

to be normal)

So, it’s like… Orange, or pink, and looks like… something?

These are not Chicken of the woods…

Why do so many people eat a mushroom with such variation in its color and

morphology with a number of look-alikes?• The species of Ganoderma that look like Laetiporus are

edible at the margins and too firm and woody in the center.

• Berkeley’s polypore tends to be too woody and bitter, but is edible.

• The black Staining Polypore, and Grifola species that can be mistaken for Laetiporus are choice edibles.

• While some look-alikes might be bitter or woody- none are known to be toxic.

Hedgehogs! (Hydnum Repandum and Hydnum Ubilicatum)

Hedgehogs.

• Hedgehogs grow on the ground, usually under conifers in late August-Mid September.

• The appear as toadstools, but instead of gills or pores, they have hanging “teeth”

• Edible Hedgehogs are light tan to light brown.• Avoid dark brown, red, or blue hedgegogs.• Avoid toothed toadstools that are funnel shaped.• Avoid scaly or woolly topped hedgehogs.• Tiny mushrooms growing on pinecones are not

hedgehogs.

Don’t eat these!

Eat these!

Boletes.

• Boletes is a family of mushrooms that include the genera: Strobilomyces, Gyrodon, Gyroporus, Leccinum, Tylopilus, Chalciporus, Porphyrellus, Austroboletus, Boletus, Boletellus, Suillus, and Retiboletus.

• They are primarily (and for the purposes of this workshop) toadstools with sponge-like pores in the place of gills or teeth.

Boletes

• Most Boletes are edible, and the best way to get into them is by learning individual species one by one.

• Boletes are sold in grocery stores as “Porcini” or “Penny Bun” (usually Boletus Edulis, the king Bolette).

• In New Hampshire, it is rare to find a Bolete that has not been thouroughly eaten by bugs and infested with maggots.

Boletes.

• Keying Boletes the way I will teach you means throwing out at least half of edible species, but leaves a good number that are all relatively safe.

• I seldom bother, as I find Boletes less appetizing than other types of fungi, and I almost never find them in a bug-free enough condition that I want to eat them, but around the world, boletes are among the most popular wild edibles.

Step 1

• Is the bolete past its prime? Check the pore surface, can you identify many insect bore marks? Is the pore surface chewed away by insects?

• If yes, toss it.

Step 2

• Is the pore surface orange or red?• If yes, toss it.

Step 3

• Squeeze the mushroom between your fingers, wait about 30 seconds, did it turn blue or green where bruised?

• If yes, toss it.

Step 4

• Does it have an orange cap?• If yes, toss it.

Step 5

• Take a nibble. Don’t swallow, keep it in your mouth, rolling it on your tongue for about 30 seconds. Now spit it out.

• Was it bitter?• If yes, toss it. If the taste was sweet or mild,

bring it home and cook it up!

Posting on an Internet Forum.

• The Facebook Group “The Mushroom Identification Forum” is a great place to post, many nationally known experts regularly make IDs. With a new ID, I like to wait for at least two confirmations of an ID I have made using field guides. If Alan Rockefeller or Tugrul Deluce make an ID, they are the best and most prolific experts on the forum and you are safe to assume they are correct.

• Don’t post a single photo and say, “Hey, Can I eat this?” The answer is: “Yes, but maybe only once.” It tends to frustrate the folks who regularly make IDs.

Include• A photo of the mushroom where it is growing with written

description of terrain features.• A close-up of the gills or pores.• Information on any staining that takes place within five

minutes of bruising, and the speed with which staining occurs (EG: Upon bruising pore surface, blue staining occurs within 15 seconds.).

• Information on nearby trees or vegetation.• Information on current location, temperature, and last major

rain.• Either a photo or description of the spore print.

Field Guides:

• Gibson’s Bookstore in Concord has the best section on fungus I have ever seen anywhere. Almost certainly the best in New England.

• The recommended book to go with this workshop series, “Mushrooms of Northeast North America: Midwest to New England” is currently out of print, but Lone Pine is doing another printing this fall. It is an excellent quick guide for beginners, laid out by type and then by spore color for toadstools- most common fungi can be identified within five minutes of obtaining a spore print.

Field Guides Continued

• Mushrooms and Other Fungi of North America by Roger Phillips is much more comprehensive, and thus a bit harder to dig through- but has excellent photography and is similarly laid out.

• The Audubon Field Guide is quite old, so many of the names have been changed, it is also laid out with all the photos in one section, meaning you have to flip back and forth from descriptions to pictures, and is very hard to use. It is nonetheless pretty good despite its issues.

Field Guides Continued

• Mushrooms Demystified by David Arora is considered the bible of mushroom guides. At almost 1000 pages, this tome is without a doubt the most complete guide available, it is very hefty and difficult to use in my opinion, but if you are going to get serious about making the tough IDs, it is indispensible.

Let’s make an ID!