BY

K.CHANDRAN, TECH:SUPDT:[P],

IIHTKANNUR.

Eco friendly dyeing process and eco- labeling

The meaning of ecofriendlyness?

The objects of 1.limiting the use of harmful products in textiles2.minimising pollution in air, water, and land

during production and usage of textiles……..For effecting this objectives govt: of india through

an extraordinary gazette notification dated 26-3-97 has banned certain dyes and chemicals containing 21 amines in india…….and afterwards this discussion started.

Requirements for ecofriendlyness

Absence of banned amines or amine releasing agents in textiles.

Very low levels of [such as below 30ppm] of formaldehyde in different uses in textiles.

Absence of chlorinated compounds.Extremely low levels of heavy metals such as

mercury,cadmium,copper,nickel,cobalt,arsenic,lead, chromium etc:

banned dyes &chemicals includes

Class of dyesClass of dyes availabilityavailability bannedbanned

Acid dyesAcid dyes 880 nos880 nos 72 nos72 nos

Naphthol dyesNaphthol dyes 40 nos40 nos 13 nos13 nos

Direct dyesDirect dyes 440 nos440 nos 239 nos239 nos

Disperse dyesDisperse dyes 550 nos550 nos 39 nos39 nos

Basic dyesBasic dyes 250 nos 250 nos 23 nos23 nos

OxidationcolorsOxidationcolors 3 nos3 nos 3 nos3 nos

List of chemicals

Chlorinated compoundsFormaldehydeSodium sulphidePenta chlorophenol[pcp]Dibutyl phthalateTributyl phosphateNonyphenol ethoxylateDichloro tolueneTrichloro benzeneDDT, ALDRIN,DIALDRIN,ENDRIN ETC:

What is to be done for ecofriendlyness

Examine Our process sequance ….?ScouringBleachingDyeingDryingWindingWarpingWeavingFinishingConversion to madeups or readymadespacking

scouring

This is the process of removing chemical impurities from the raw material-the yarn

Conventionally we do it with boiling yarn using caustic soda+soda ash+soap oil[or any detergent] in vomitting kiers.

This increases BOD,COD levels of effluent waterIf enzyme scouring is used this problem can be

avoided.protease,pectinase,lipase etc: are examples.

Scourenz SBWB is such a product from rossari

bleaching

Normally we do it with bleaching powder-that is calcium hypochlorite- is a redlisted chemicals

Better solution is to use hydrogen peroxide method in bleaching.

In absence of neutralisation sometimes it gives patchy shades in subsequant dyeing

It increases TDS level of effluent water also.So may be incorporate a neutralisation process

using an enzyme peroxide killer-for example the ULTROX EPN 50 of rossari.

dyeing

Eventhough many dye classes such as direct,basic, naphthols,sulphur etc are available in industry we are using only the most ecofriendly dyes of vat & reactive dyes in our textiles.

So basically on dyeing process we are not having problems related with finished products

But what about the effluents coming out?

Reactive dyes

Have a tendancy to hydrolyse during dyeing and as a result it bleeds in subsequant washings.

It produces water insoluble colour producing compounds in drainouts thereby aggrevating the effluent problems

Enzymes like laccases,ligninperoxidases,manganeseperoxidases etc: has a property to destroy colour producing compounds

and so if such enzymes are used in washing off reactive dyed materials under 55-60 C temp: it will improve fastness as well as leaves rinse bath clear .

Alongwith prescribed effluent treatment plant will ensure ecofriendlyness.

sizing

Sizing process is carried out here only very small quantity because of our product range and its limitations.

In our conventional sizing only biodegradable materials are used.

But if the dothy and saree warps are sourced from outside it should ensure not to use PCP in size mixture which is added as a preservative.

Finishing

Normally it is outsourced. printing, softening, wrinkle free, fire retardancy, anti-microbial, stainguard and such finishes are done.

Most red listed chemicals are to be used in this sector.

Care should be taken to ensure to use safe chemicals.

Enzymatic treatments are available in most cases such as biopolishing, print washing and other finishings.

packing

Plastic materials are on the rise in consumer packaging. It should be avoided as far as possible.

Many alternative packaging materials are available having biodegradables and to minimise plastics.alternate production strategies are also to be adopted such as conversion of inhouse waste into packages as done by m/s aysha hosiery.

Eco labels

Eco labels are used to guarantee to consumer an ecofriendly product and to distinguish the product from normal product in a positive way.

It also refers to a products collective overall environmental performance in the lifecycle of that product.

It also ensures that the manufacturing process of that product has been made environment friendly.

Reasons for ecology concerns for textile industry

1.various demands from consumer origin organizations regarding environmental issues.

2. growing influences of environmental organizations in consumers mindset driven by environmental issues.

3.growth in market share achieved by ecofriendly products.

4.initiative taken by some research institutions in addressing health and environment issues faced by people.

5.initiative taken by governments in developed nations in adopting environmental protection policy.

Eco-labelling in India

A voluntary scheme of labeling environmentally friendly products has been introduced by ministry of environment & forests , govt: of India and the bureau of Indian standards.

The ECOMARK scheme covers products which are manufactured , used, or disposed of in an environmentally way.

Criteria for labeling textiles as environmentally friendly products have been specified in gazette notification no . 157,may 4th, 1996.

Major criteria for eco-labeling

Levels of pH.Low permissible levels of formaldehyde.Restriction on use of certain pesticides.Extremely low levels of some heavy metals.Prohibition on pentachlorophenol [PCP].Absence of chlorinated , aliphatic/aromatic

compounds.Absence of azo dyes which can liberate any one of

the 21 banned arylamines listed by German govt:

Types of eco labels

There are two types of ecolabeling demands from consumers point of view.

1. ecological and biological textiles [that is fully natural textiles].

2. ecologically optimized textile products [green products].

Eco labels for textiles

Eco labels

Eco labels

Thank you and

Let us thrive for the best in attaining ecofriendlyness in our industry and get the “ ECOMARK”.