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Building Construction (CIV 216)

Group 10's Research

PAINTINGS (INTERIOR & EXTERIOR)

& WALLPAPERS

Supervision

Dr. Ahmed Mohamed Saleh

:Prepared by

Group 10

Ahmed Atef Mohamed

Amira Abdullah Yousef

Esraa Hamed

Alaa Ahmed

Aya Mohamed Ahmed

Samar Mohamed

Merna Ahmed Hassan

Hagar Ibrahim Abdullah

Level 2 – Civil Eng. Department

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Content and Missions

Interior Paintings .............................................................................................. 1

General Definition and types (Amira Abdullah Yousef) ............................. 2

Choosing Paint Color (Ahmed Atef Mohamed) ....................................... 10

Surface Preparation and Tools (Aya Mohamed Ahmed) ....................... 14

Exterior Paintings ............................................................................................ 24

General Definition and Types (Samar Mohamed) ................................... 24

Properties and Paint ways (Esraa Hamed) ................................................ 28

Surface Preparation and tools (Alaa Ahmed) ......................................... 34

Wall Paper ....................................................................................................... 35

General Definition and Properties of wallpaper( Hagar Ebraheem) .... 35

Types , Hanging and removing of wallpaper (Merna Ahmad Hassan )

........................................................................................................................... 39

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Paintings

Painting a room or your whole house, inside or out, is a popular home

improvement project. New paint can change the mood of a space and

value of your property. increase the

A Brief History of House Painting

One can just imagine the

caveman agonizing over the

choice between “fire soot” grey

and “bison blood” burgundy for

his cave decor. Evidence shows

that mankind has decorated his

far back as living space as

40,000 years ago using what

could be called paint. The

rom material would be made f

natural ingredients too. -all

Prehistoric paint was made -

from colored earth, soot, and organic materials mixed with animal

Recently archeologists discovered a site in South blood and fatty oils.

brown -Africa that indicated that men (or women) used a yellowish

clayey soil based coating which may have been used like paint.

Caveman paints

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Fast forward to Egypt only about 2,000 years ago. Brightly colored

walls in Dendera have stood the test of time and still look as vivid today

as when they were painted! We don’t know of any modern day paints

that offer that kind of guarantee. The Egyptians created six colors by

mixing oil or fat with lead, earth, animal blood, ground glass or

semiprecious stones. Their palate included white, red, yellow, green,

black and blue. Intricate and elaborate paintings that illustrated their

culture and history were painted along with furnishings and living spaces

of the pharaohs and the ruling classes. Some of the best painting was

reserved for the Egyptian tombs as their belief in the afterlife called for.

House painting became

something to be avoided if you were

a part of the early American

colonies. The Pilgrims considered

painting your house to be a display

of immodesty, wealth and vanity.

The practice was consider immoral

by many and in 1630 a preacher that

decorated his Charlestown home

interior with paint was criminally

charged with sacrilege.

The demand for interior painting

continued despite the puritan objections. Oil and water became the

base that would be mixed with a wide variety of materials including

lead, ground shells, iron or copper oxide, coffee, rice, eggs, fruits, berries

and other vegetation to create many types and colors of paint. Paint

producers cooked up their product despite the fact that it was illegal.

Many homes were elaborately decorated with lifelike murals of sky,

stone and landscape features painted on the walls, paneling, cornices

and ceilings.

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The painting tools used during these times are very similar to todays

brushes employing wooden handles with various types of hair attached.

Modern brushes use synthetic fibers but the object was the same, to

apply the paint to the surface with the appropriate thickness and stroke

in order to ease the process and achieve the best finished result. Many

of the paints were quite thick and not at all like the easy to apply paint

that we are accustomed to.

In 1718 Marshall Smith invented

a “Machine for the Grinding of

Colors” which sparked a race of

innovation to create the best ways

to grind pigment materials

effectively and actually start

manufacturing paint in a paint mill.

By the mid 1800’s linseed oil began to

be used as a less expensive binding

agent that actually protected wood

that was painted.

In 1866 the first company to

produce ready-to-use paint was

formed, Sherwin-Williams. Harry Sherwin, Alanson Osborn and Edward

Williams formed Sherwin, Williams, & Co. in Cleveland, Ohio. Henry

Sherwin later developed a tin can that consumers could reseal. In 1883,

a competition that continues today started when Benjamin Moore

began operations. The company put much emphasis on the chemistry

to improve the color mixing and production throughout the twentieth

century and were the first to design the computer based color-matching

system that we all are accustomed to back in 1982.

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Interior and Exterior Paintings

Interior paint is the name given to paint used for walls, ceilings and trim

within a house.

Exterior paint is the name for paint used outside the house on walls—

whether wood, brick, or vinyl or aluminum siding—and trim.

Interior and exterior paint are formulated differently because they

have different conditions and situations. Interior paint is made to be

easy-to-clean and touch up when necessary. Exterior paint is prepared

to be fade- and mildew-resistant and flexible when the surface expands

and contracts due to climate changes. The two types of paint are

specially formulated for their purposes, and are not interchangeable.

Difference between Exterior and Interior Painting

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Interior Painting

Types of interior paintings

There are several different types of interior wall paints, and the more

you know about appropriate paintable surfaces and the effects that

paint can achieve, the easier it is to make the right choice. It’s also

feasible to mix different types of interior wall paint within a room, but you

should know what you’re doing.

1. Matte Paint

Matte color is the most

common of interior wall paints.

There’s no shine or sheen to the

finish, making it ideal for walls and

ceilings where you don't want any

visual distractions. It’s easy to

apply, although it can often take

more than a single coat to create

a good solid color. Matte paint

can be applied with a brush or

roller and works well covering

imperfections on your walls. This

makes it ideal for older houses.

On the downside, matte paint is

easily marked. Although some marks can be removed with a damp

cloth, matte paint needs regular retouching.

2. Matte Enamel

Matte enamel is very much like

matte paint, but tends to be far

more durable. It’s much easier to

clean and rarely needs retouching,

giving it a great advantage,

especially if you have young

children. It is also excellent for the

kitchen, where you’ll regularly need

to wipe the walls. The visual effect is

very similar to matte paint and it

can be applied in the same way.

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3. Satin

Satin finish is one of the types

of interior wall paint that many

people know of, but few really

understand. The finish is

somewhere between matte and

gloss and produces a low, soft

sheen. This makes it ideal for areas

where you’ll need to clean the

walls regularly; however, you

shouldn’t use a satin finish where

you have a wall with

imperfections because it will

make them more apparent.

4. Eggshell

An eggshell finish has a shine that’s

extremely subtle but without the same

smoothness as a satin finish. Thus, it

doesn’t highlight imperfections quite

as much, making it a much more

suitable interior wall paint. It’s easy to

apply and can often cover well with a

single coat, making it a better choice

for many people.

Tip: Eggshell and semi-gloss paint both usually cover more surface area

with less paint than matte paint.

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5. Semi-gloss

Semi-gloss is another common interior paint, although it’s more

commonly used on trim rather than walls. It offers a hard finish, is suitable

for heavy use and is easy to clean with just soap and water. The shine

produced is less than full gloss paint, but it’s usually easy to achieve a

good covering with just a single coat.

Tip: Shiny paints bring out imperfections. Spackle spots and other repairs

are greatly accentuated by shiny paint, and they have to be perfect.

Also, spackle spots must be primed or they will show up as flat spots in

the shiny paint. The best way to

cover spackle and repair

patches under semi-gloss is to

buy a quart of flat paint tinted to

the color of the finish coat and

spot prime the repairs.

6 . Gloss

Gloss finish paint is very shiny and

mimics the look of enamel or

plastic. Gloss is the most

reflective finish. It is becoming

very popular to use for a

dramatic look on cabinets, trim

and furniture.

A lot of prep work is required

with this finish. If there are any imperfections in the item you are painting

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the finish will enhance the problem. That said, gloss is very durable and

will hold up to many cleanings.

Choosing paint colour

Just as with exterior painting, picking the

right color scheme for interior spaces requires

a certain amount of imagination and

creativity. Simply thinking about what color

would look best on a wall isn’t enough to

ensure a positive paint job. Virtually any color

will look good on a surface as long as it is

applied correctly, but choosing the right color

involves looking at an interior space with a

very critical eye.

The floor and ceiling surfaces cannot be

ignored, as they are crucial elements of color

combination. Most ceilings are traditionally

painted white for a number of reasons

— particularly for their ability to keep rooms

looking bright and to avoid taking attention

away from the walls. Lighter ceiling colors can

also help to make a room appear larger and

more open.

Deviating from white ceilings is a great

way to change the overall appearance of a

house, but since darkening a ceiling can steal

some of the light and visually shorten the

height of the room. Ceiling colors should offset

and complement the walls and the floor

instead of calling attention above.

The easiest way to choose a color scheme is

to look through color catalogues or at paint

samples. Most hardware stores and paint depots keep catalogs handy for customers

to take home. Painters should take their time looking at the spaces in these catalogs

and comparing colors to their existing floors, carpets, curtains, blinds, furniture and

decorations. It’s important to look at fabric and upholstery first and then look at the

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other aspects to see if they coordinate with your color choices. Consider the prominent

color in this coordination for the walls.

Each color has certain properties and psychological effects that can influence the

mood of the interior occupants.

Some of the most popular colors used for interior painting include:

1. Black and gray

black is usually associated with somberness and malignity, it can also represent

sophistication, reverence and physical attraction. Interior designers have

traditionally shunned black paint, but homeowners increasingly choose it for trim

and accents that are meant to be dramatic and striking. Black is the perfect

match and contrast for white, and the amount used can range from trim areas to

an accent wall. With the right furniture and décor, black is ideal for living rooms,

bedrooms and ultra-modern kitchens.

Gray is a timeless color, but it could also be considered drab if not accessorized

with bold colors. Anyone who has grown tired of looking at white paint on walls for

years should consider gray tones. Gray paint is cooler than its white counterpart

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and more versatile, as it manages to blend well with most decorations. It is an ideal

color for all interior spaces and provides the perfect backdrop for color bursts.

2. Brown

Brown denotes a personality that is earthy, realistic and trustworthy. This classic

earth tone can be applied to living and work areas alike, as it evokes a feeling of

being well-rounded and connected with nature. Terracotta and dark mustard

brown combinations are perfect for Latin American and Santa Fe-style décor.

Brown hues are great for interior spaces that get a lot of sunlight. Lighter shades of

brown, such as beige and taupe, are neutral colors that particularly work well in

homes that are being shown to potential buyers.

3. Green:

The psychological effect of green is largely dependent on the tone or hue. Some

green hues create a positive, natural atmosphere. However, darker hues or pale

olive green can seem militaristic or ill. Multiple shades of green can serve different

purposes and set different moods. Maritime greens are ideal for studios and offices

as they inspire concentration, while cool forest greens can be used in bedrooms

and bathrooms.

4. Red and pink:

red is the color of passion and can create drama in any space. In the past,

interior designers mostly chose red as an accent color, but it is now increasingly

used in stylish living rooms and bedrooms. Flat red is modern and inviting, cherry

red is youthful and darker red conjures up feelings of warmth and loyalty.

Pink is also a soft romantic color, but it can also denote innocence. This is the

traditional color for baby girls, but it's also used in women’s spaces, such as in

makeup rooms, bathrooms and bedrooms. Hot pink must be used with care in

spaces that get a lot of sunlight, as it can make the room feel dark.

5. Yellow:

Yellow is generally a happy color that increases confidence. Similar to gray,

yellow can be very versatile. Pale yellows used in sunlit rooms with flowery

decorations are very inviting, especially in the morning time. Darker yellows can

add warmth to a room even in the winter time. Bright yellows help reduce the

amount of illumination needed in a space and are ideal for any room in the house.

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6. Orange:

Emotionally speaking, orange is a

very stimulating and happy color.

Pastel oranges are irresistible and

great for interior spaces where skin is

more likely to be exposed, such as

bedrooms and bathrooms. Bright

orange is the antithesis of gray and

can be lively, while darker and burnt

orange tones have a similar effect as

the brown hues and go along great

with southwestern décor.

7. Blue:

Blue is the color of calmness, productivity and masculine sophistication. Baby

blue will always be a popular color choice for young boys, while different hues of

cyan can be used to great effects in children's bathrooms to create an

underwater mood with the right decoration. When applied to a ceiling, a light blue

can conjure images of a cloudless sky and increase the sense of space. Pale and

medium blues can be painted around the house to achieve a cooling effect.

Colour and mood

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Some important tips for picking paint colour:-

Think about your mood.

Pay attention to lighting.

Add depth with decorative finishes.

Follow the colour wheel.

Play up monochromatic shcemes.

Choose different paint finishes.

Never rely on paint chips alone.

Choose three or more different paint shades

Think about the visual effect you want

Consider your home's architectural style and era.

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Surface preparation

Improperly prepared surfaces can result in reduced

coatingintegrity and service life. Up to 80% of all coatings failures can be

ted to inadequate surface preparation, which affects directly attribu

coating adhesion

To ensure adhesion of the coating to the substrate and prolong the

service life of the coating system, select and implement the proper

eparation depends on surface preparation. The method of surface pr

the substrate, the environment, and the expected life of the coating

system.

-Precautious:

paint or other contamination to ensure good

adhesion

.

after a rain, during foggy weather, when rain is

predicted, or when the temperature is below 50°F -

unless the coating indicates it can be used down to

35°F. Most coatings are now formulated for low

temperature use.

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-Preparation steps by surface type:

Aluminum

Remove all oil, grease, dirt, oxide

and other foreign material by

cleaning per SSPC-SP1 Solvent

Cleaning.

Brick

Brick must be free of dirt, loose and

excess mortar, and foreign

material.

All brick should be allowed to

weather for at least one year

followed by wire brushing to

remove efflorescence.

Treat the bare brick with one coat

of Loxon Conditioner.

Block (Cinder and Concrete)

Remove all loose mortar and foreign

material from block. Surface must be free of

laitance, concrete dust, dirt, form release

agents, moisture curing membranes, loose

cement, and hardeners.

Concrete and mortar must be cured at

least 30 days at 75°F.

The pH of the surface should be between 6 and 9.

On tilt-up and poured-in-place concrete, commercial detergents

and abrasive blasting may be necessary to prepare the surface.

Fill bug holes, air pockets, and other voids with a cement patching

compound.

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Concrete

The surface must be clean, free of contaminants,

loose cement, mortar, oil, and grease. Broom cleaning,

vacuum cleaning, air blast cleaning, water cleaning,

and steam cleaning are suitable as outlined in ASTM

D4258.

Concrete curing compounds, form release agents,

and concrete hardeners may not be compatible with

recommended coatings. Check for compatibility by

applying a test patch of the recommended coating

system, covering at least 2 to 3 square feet. Allow

concrete to dry one week before testing adhesion per

ASTM D3359. If the coating system is incompatible,

surface preparation per methods outlined in ASTM

D4259 are required.

Copper

Remove all oil, grease, dirt, oxide and other

foreign material by cleaning per SSPC-SP 2,

Hand Tool Cleaning.

Drywall

Drywall must be cleaned and be dry. All

nail heads must be set and spackled. Joints

must be taped and covered with a joint

compound. Spackled nail heads and tape

joints must be sanded smooth and all dust

removed prior to painting.

Exterior surfaces must be spackled with

exterior grade compounds.

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Plaster

- Plaster must be allowed to dry thoroughly for at least 30 days before

painting

- The room must be ventilated while drying, In cold, damp weather, rooms

must be heated

- Damaged areas must be repaired with an appropriate patching

material

Textured, soft, porous, or powdery plaster should be treated with a solution of

1 pint household vinegar to 1 gallon of water. Repeat until the surface is

hard, rinse with clear water and allow to dry.

oated SurfacesPreviously C

Maintenance painting will frequently not permit or require

complete removal of all old coatings prior to repainting. However, all

surface contamination such as oil, grease, loose paint, mill scale, dirt,

foreign matter, rust, mold, mildew, mortar, efflorescence, and sealers

must be removed to assure sound bonding to the tightly adhering old

paint.

Glossy surfaces of old paint films must be clean and dull before

repainting. Thorough washing with an abrasive cleanser will clean and

dull in one operation, or, wash thoroughly and dull by sanding.

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Recognize that any surface preparation short of total removal of the

old coating may compromise the service length of the system. Check

for compatibility by applying a test patch of the recommended coating

system, covering at least 2 to 3 square feet. Allow surface to dry one

week before testing adhesion per ASTM D3359. If the coating system is

incompatible, complete removal is required (per ASTM 4259, see

Concrete, S-W 5, "Blast Cleaning" above).

Steel - Structural Plate

Steel should be cleaned by

one or more of the nine surface

preparations described below.

These methods were originally

established by the Steel Structures

Council in 1952, and are used

throughout the world for

describing methods for cleaning

structural steel. Visual standards

are available through the Steel

Structures Painting

Council

Steel - Solvent Cleaning

Solvent cleaning is a method for removing all visible oil,

grease, soil, drawing and cutting compounds, and

other soluble contaminants. Solvent cleaning does not

remove rust or mill

scale.

-Change rags and cleaning solution frequently so that

deposits of oil and grease are not spread over

additional areas in the cleaning process. Be sure to

allow adequate ventilation

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Steel hand tool cleaning

Hand Tool Cleaning removes all loose mill

scale, loose rust, and other detrimental foreign

matter. It is not intended that adherent mill

scale, rust, and paint be removed by this

process.

Wood interior

All finishing lumber and flooring must be

stored in dry, warm rooms to prevent

absorption of moisture, shrinkage, and

roughening of the wood.

All surfaces must be sanded smooth, with

the grain, never across it.

Surface blemishes must be corrected and the

area cleaned of dust before coating.

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Wood – Exterior

Wood must be clean and dry.

Prime and paint as soon as possible. Knots and pitch streaks must be

scraped, sanded, and spot primed before a full priming coat is applied.

Patch all nail holes and imperfections with a wood filler or putty and sand

smooth.

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Painting Tools & Supplies

BRUSHES

CHOOSING A HIGH-QUALITY

BRUSH IN THE RIGHT SIZE AND

SHAPE CAN SAVE YOU A LOT OF

TIME LATER. WE CAN HELP YOU

CHOOSE WHICH BRUSH WILL

WORK FOR YOUR PAINTING

PROJECT.

oller Covers, Frames & R

Crafted from a blend of natural

and synthetic fibers, Sherwin-

Williams roller covers eliminate

the splotchy effect left behind by

many other roller cover fibers.

APE & MASKINGT

DROP CLOTHS, PAINTER'S TAPE,

AND MASKING SUPPLIES. WE'VE

GOT ALL THE EXTRAS YOU NEED

TO ENSURE STRAIGHT EDGES AND

PROTECTED SURFACES.

andpaper & AbrasivesC

From small to large sanding jobs,

we carry a variety of sanding

tools, sandpaper sheets, sanding

sponges and sanding screens to

fit your needs.

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SANDING TOOLS

WHETHER YOU ARE PAINTING A

BARE SURFACE, STRIPPING PAINT

OR BETWEEN COATS, WE HAVE

THE SANDING TOOLS TO GET THE

PROJECT DONE QUICKLY AND

EASILY.

atching & RepairP

Whether you are painting,

staining, or wallpapering, we

have the tapes, patching

compounds, fillers and tools to

give your patching and repair

projects a smooth finish .

LEANING SUPPLIESC

FROM SURFACE PREPARATION TO

CLEANUP, WE CARRY THE

CLEANERS AND CLEANING

SUPPLIES FOR ALL OF YOUR

PAINTING PROJECTS.

Ladders

Extend your reach safely. We

stock Werner ladders in a variety

of lengths and duty ratings to get

your painting needs.

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OLVENTS & REMOVERSS

REMOVER PRODUCTS

Drywall Compounds & Tools

Browse all of the drywall tools and

joint compounds that you need

for a successful project.

PAINTER'S TOOLS

WHETHER YOU ARE PAINTING,

STAINING OR WALLPAPERING, WE

CARRY THE TOOLS TO GET THE JOB

DONE RIGHT.

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Exterior Painting

Choosing exterior paints can be complicated because of the wide range of

surfaces. These surfaces include clapboard and aluminum siding, wood

shingles, tar

shingles, cedar

shakes, brick,

concrete block,

stucco, and, of

course, old paint.

On many older

homes, you'll find

a combination of

these surfaces. Fortunately, there is an exterior paint for every type of surface,

and some paints are suitable for more than one surface.

.Types of Exterior Paining

First things first about paint: There are two basic types of paint to choose from,

water-based and oil-based.

Latex and acrylic paints are water-based, while alkyd paints are oil-based, and

both interior paints and exterior paints come in both types.

When it comes to exterior paint, oil-based is better at resisting dirt, but more

commonly water-based latex paint is used

because it tends to be at least as or more durable

than oil-based.

These outdoor-friendly paints are better suited to

handle humidity, temperature changes and other

outdoor factors, and they don't take as long to

dry as alkyds. Paints formulated for outdoor use

contain additives that give them longevity in the

elements -- including resistance to cracking and

dirt resistance, as well as protection from the

damage ultraviolet (UV) rays cause. Many also

have mildewcide as an additive.

Top quality oil-based paints have excellent

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adhesion characteristics, which means they get a tight grip on the surface

being painted. And good adhesion is essential for a durable paint

job. However, oil-based coatings tend to oxidize and get brittle over time,

which can lead to cracking problems in exterior applications, and yellowing

and chipping problems in interior applications.

but if you decide to use oil-based coatings, be aware that they are more

difficult to apply and clean up after than latex

paints. They also take longer to dry - sometimes,

24 hours or more - so you cannot apply a

second coat as quickly as you can with latex

paint.

Oil-based paints can be used for certain

applications within the home - for example, on

interior trim. But keep in mind that these paints

have noticeably more odor than latex paints.

In order to clean oil-based paint you need to use

harsh chemicals like paint thinner while just a

small amount of detergent and water will

allow you to clean water-

based.

Water-based paints are also not as

durable as oil-based, and aren’t as shiny

Types of oil and water baesd

1. Enamel

Oil-based paint is given the

term "enamel" due to its hardness and

durability. These paints will also include

gloss and semi-gloss finishes and they are

mostly used around windows, doors, and

trim. But Over time this paint can discolor

2. Latex

. Water-based latex paints have always been popular with do-it-yourselfers and

professional painters because of their easy cleanup with plain soap and

water. But today's quality latex paints offer significant performance

advantages as well. compared to oil-based paints, top quality exterior latex

paints have greater durability in the form of better color retention and chalk

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resistance, so they continue to look good for years. Since they do not tend to

get brittle as oil-based paints do, they have better resistance to

cracking. Latex paints also dry much faster than oil-based paints (typically in

one to six hours), which allows you to quickly apply a second coat.

Quality latex paints that have "100% acrylic" binders are especially durable and

highly flexible. They tend to adhere extremely well to a variety of exterior

surfaces, which means they have greater resistance to troublesome paint

failures like blistering, flaking and peeling, compared with other latex paints

3. Acrylic

This is just another term for water-based house paint, but the binding ingredient

in the paint is acrylic. Acrylic paint can be found in several varieties including

acrylic latex, acrylic enamel, or acrylic latex enamel. Acrylic enamel house

paint is considered as such due to its durability;

it is not a mixture of oil and water-based paint. Always consult the labels of the

paint as not all paint actually contains latex or acrylic despite the name. Also,

remember that the higher the shine, the more imperfections the paint will show.

4. Specialty Paints

Each paint type can have additives included in it. These paints can include

anti-mold and anti-mildew properties as well as fire retardants. Some also have

anti-condensation additives, making them popular in locations like the kitchen.

Oil Based Latex

Durability Excellent adhesion;

better adhesion than

latex on heavily

chalked surfaces

Excellent adhesion to

most substrates; better

elasticity than oil.

Color Retention Not as good as latex;

more likely to chalk and

fade in sunny exposure

Superior resistance to

chalking and fading,

especially when

exposed to bright sun.

Ease of Application More difficult to apply

due to greater "drag,"

Goes on smoothly and

evenly, with less brush

drag.

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Mildew Resistance Vegetable oil base can

provide nutrients for

mildew growth;so most

products contain

mildewcide to minimize

growth

Less inherent tendency

to grow mildew;

mildewcide additives

discourage mildew

growth, help maintain

fresh appearance.

Versatility Can be used on most

materials, but for new

concrete, stucco and

other masonry, a sealer

or pre-treatment is

required; should not be

applied directly to

galvanized metal.

Can be used on wood,

concrete, stucco, brick,

galvanized metal, vinyl

siding, aluminum siding,

etc

Odor Noticeably more odor

than latex.

Very little odor.

Clean Up Turpentine, paint

thinner or other solvent.

Simple water cleanup.

Drying Time Eight to 24 hours. One to six hours,

permitting quick

recoating.

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Surface Preparation

Here are some tips for dealing with the problems associated with typical

exterior surfaces:

New wood siding: Make sure to brush the wood clean, working from the

top down. Caulk after you stain or prime. If

you plan to paint or use a solid-color stain,

set any nails that the carpenters missed

below the surface and fill the nail holes

with caulk.

Weathered wood siding: Stain bonds well to

unpainted, weathered wood. If you plan to

paint, sand or power-wash the wood to

smooth siding that has been exposed to the

weather for more than a few weeks. You

may have to remove as much as 1/8 inch of the gray, weathered surface

to get to the unweathered, natural-colored wood. If you're staining, use a

wood restorer or power-wash the wood to bring back its natural color so

that staining produces the desired color.

Old painted siding: Scrape off loose paint. Then power-sand to feather

the hard edges left by scraping,

prime any bare wood, and caulk all

joints. Also, set any popped nails, fill

the holes with caulk, and spot-prime

the siding.

Hardboard siding: You can easily ruin hardboard siding by neglecting

maintenance or by doing the work incorrectly. Some of the preparation

guidelines include

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Use a 300-degree steam cleaner (a

rental item) or scrub the siding with a

very hot detergent solution.

Lightly sand glossy finishes to remove the

sheen (called scuff sanding), but sand,

scrape, or cut into the surface only as

much as is necessary to correct

problems. Replace or fill badly damaged

areas.

Don't set nails or you'll break the factory-applied protective coating.

New cedar and redwood: New cedar and

redwood bleed tannin. Wash them with a

general cleaning detergent and water

solution before priming them with a stain-

blocking alkyd primer.

Concrete and masonry: Unfinished, fully

cured concrete can be finished with concrete stain or paint after being

cleaned with a power-washer.

Although you can scrape or sand small

areas of peeling paint off concrete or

masonry surfaces, doing so dulls

scrapers and chews up sandpaper

quickly. Consider sandblasting or

stripping with a chemical remover.

Clean out cracks with a wet-dry vacuum or blow out dust with

compressed air before caulking the cracks. Do the same when using a

concrete patch, and mist the surface before applying the patch.

Stucco: In many cases, a masonry cleaner is all you need to renew a

stucco surface. Hose off the loose dirt and, while the surface is still wet,

apply the cleaner to lift the remaining dirt.

Then scrub with a stiff brush. If the stucco

still looks dingy, consider having a stucco

contractor redash the finish.

Power-washing stucco, especially old

stucco, is risky. The force of the water can blast the finish off, turning a

simple cleaning job into a major repair.

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Glossy finishes: Paint doesn't bond well to glossy surfaces. Sanding is a

time-consuming and especially difficult on detailed areas of trim,

windows, and doors. Brush-on deglosser, available for both oil- and latex-

based paints, is an easier way to dull the surface.

Iron railings and siding: Clean the metal to remove dirt, grime, and oil

before priming with a rust-inhibiting primer. Follow the paint

manufacturer's cleaning guidelines. Generally, you can use a 50-50

vinegar and water solution for all metal except galvanized steel. Clean

new galvanized metal with mineral spirits before priming with special

galvanized metal primer.

Rust often occurs under the paint on these surfaces, causing stains and a

bumpy finish. Eventually, the corrosion flakes off with the finish. You can

eliminate rust by sanding, grinding, or sandblasting. Or, when removing

every last spot of rust is impractical, you can use a wire brush to scrape off

only the loose, flaking rust and then treat the metal with a chemical to

neutralize the corrosion.

Aluminum or vinyl gutters: Avoid painting aluminum and especially vinyl

gutters, if at all possible. If you do paint, scuff-sand for better bonding.

Aluminum siding: A good cleaning is generally all aluminum siding needs

before you paint.

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Benefits of paint

1) to give an aesthetic view of the surfaces

coated with paint that

2 ) facilitate cleaning of these surfaces.

3 ) The paint gives surfaces protection and the

prevention of the impact of various external

factors.

4 ) propagation of light better , especially if the

paint with a light color .

5 ) to give the feel of rough surfaces or sleek

custom .

Elements or Paint components:

1) the colorful material: a crystalline granules of plastic material or organic

liquid attached to the paint, which in turn required to post them on painted

surfaces, and this powder is the one who earns Paint property (hide surface).

2.) Diluted fluid: liquids are added to the paint and function of facilitating the

process of paint coating, and increase the speed of drying after coating.

3.) Dryers: materials added to the paint, and help to paint bowls quickly after

the painted surfaces.

4.) fluids, paint or oils: These oils are thin and flexible and solid surfaces coated

membrane, these oils about mostly dry quickly.

5.) Solvents: Liquids are used to ease the paint and increase its liquidity to

facilitate the use of the brush.

6-) fillers: have multiple functions most important of which increase the

durability of the paint colors and the distribution of powders (the first element)

in the paint liquid.

7.) matte: materials added to the paint to soften the cost and to improve its

use as well as help in the paint hardener membrane on painted surfaces.

Paint ways:

There are many ways to paint the walls, including:

Oil Painting:

Clean wall first remove the dust and the remains of the

clamshell, using a wire brush or putty knife. It is grinding

the surface with soap dissolved in water.

The paint base layer (endothelium) which consists of

the level of oil, and oil, and zinc by 50, 20.30%

respectively.

Using oil toothpaste (paste Endwell) or putty is ready

surface is covered with a layer or two layers in two

perpendicular directions. After drying putty it is lapping

the surface well.

Oil painting generally a second surface (50% weight,

30% oil, 20% oil) plus the desired color.

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It is heal defects and Abrasives places putty dry thoroughly after

The surface finish on demand

Painted glossy oil:

It consists of the face (50% oil level ) with a little Alsakatev + (50% weight ) plus

the desired color .

Oil paint ( matte ) : where this face (10 % oil level ) consists + (20% oil Ni ) +

(20% oil ) + (50% weight ) plus color.

Paint lacquers : and are finishing the surface in two ways : The first half matte (

50% Lacquered Ready + 20% Oil + level of 30% Zn) are lapping surface, and

given a face finally ( 90% Lacquered ready +10 % oil ) .

Plastic paint :

The surface washing with liquid ammonia diluted with water by 1%. Then give

an aqueous plastic face ( 60% Plastic Ready +40 % water )

Rolla can be used in the case of oil paint ( matte ) , as well as plastic paint .

Can plastic paint on the walls ( oily preparation ) as previously reported as not

hold paint , plastic prepare , by giving the surface and two coats of plastic (

50% Plastic Ready +50 % water ) plus the desired color , and stir well .

If there was a wall or ceiling has been Chtaibh Balmeses , and intended to

paint the plastic , is being processing defects by using a mixture of gypsum

and Alaspedaj and plastic with water. Emery is these places well . Then paint

the surface of a face or two-sided plastic diluted with water , with the

addition of the desired color and Tkulaibh well using the brush, Rolla If you

want to get a grainy surface. In the case of re- paint and plastic , and the

surface is cleaned , and painted surface generally plastics ( 50% Plastic

Ready +50 % water ) with the addition of the desired color

Glue paint : one of the water based paints , where the paint is made up of

(40% Aspedaj +10 % Glue +50 % water ) and in addition to the desired

color . And the surface being cleaned and established using glue , dissolved

in the water by 1:10 . Mortar glue and then painted face or two-sided , and

can use the brush, or spraying method .

Lime paint : It is the oldest type of paints, commonly used . It is a patriarchal

Water is composed of lime dissolved in the water, with the addition of a little

salt or alum , as well as the desired color. You can use the brush in the paint ,

or spraying method .

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Wallpaper

Wallpaper was first used in 200 BC in China and was made of rice paper stuck

to the walls in homes. In 1481 AD Jean Bourdichon painted 50 rolls of paper

with angels on a blue background for Louis XI of France. A century later, a

guild of paperhangers was first established in France. In a major development

for wallpaper production, gravure printing was invented by Karl Keitsch in

Austria in 1879 AD.

Wallpaper can provide

Textured relief

Colour and design options

Gloss differentials

Enhanced surfaces for plasterboard by improving the surface strength

and minimising potential defects such as critical light conditions.

And most often an infusion of all of these as well as responding to a

fashion trend.

Most commonly striking wallpaper options are used for key feature areas to

draw attention and create impact, complemented by paint finishes on

adjacent walls, trim and ceiling.

ADVANTAGES OF WALLPAPER :

Wallpaper can last up to 15

years and beyond, which

makes it cost-effective in the

long run. It is generally

accepted that properly

hung wallpaper will last 3

times as long as paint.

Wallpaper adheres easily

and smoothly to walls, hiding

many surface imperfections.

It can also add warmth,

depth and style to a room

that monotone paint simply

cannot achieve. Chic designs, intriguing textures and beautiful prints

have an impactful effect on the décor of a room.

Wallpaper can be used to create a designer look in any space, and can

also be applied to just one wall as a feature wall.

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DISADVANTAGES OF WALLPAPER:

The process of applying wallpaper to walls is more time consuming than

painting. Then, if you decide that it's time for a change, you can't simply paint

over it or apply a different wallpaper without some prep work. Many of today's

wallpapers (non-woven technology) strip off in large sheets, but some older

wallpapers can be more tedious to remove. Before attempting your first

wallpaper project, you should read up on things like makingsure your first strip

is level, pattern match, and hanging around corners. Our How to Hang section

is a great resource for everything you need to know before you hang your own

wallpaper. We also have a helpful FAQ section on removing wallpaper.

Wallpaper Or Paint?

The differences between wallpaper and paint:

1 - Ease of Application

Between the two, paint is the easier and relatively the "lesser fuss" option.

Investment of a day or two will suffice for a paint job for a standard room, even

though the time taken does depend on the weather. Even though not as

popular in India as the West, but if you feel like it, you can also roll up your

sleeves and paint your walls yourself. Painted walls are also very

accommodating to incoming, newer coats of paint of the same hue. In most

cases, if the surface isn't unusually bad, a new coat of paint can be applied

on to the older one. However, remember that it is advised to always strip the

older colour before painting a new one on top. That is especially true when you

want to paint an erstwhile dark coloured wall into a lighter hue. The stripping of

paint can take another day for a room.

Wallpaper application is a job best tackled by an expert. The process can get

slightly messy and it demands a lot of time and patience. Same holds true for

stripping the wallpaper too. New layer of wallpaper cannot be applied on top

of the existing one. Advances in technology have allowed the latest versions

to be stripped off in bigger chunks, but it remains a tedious affair nonetheless.

2- Durability

Good quality paint on walls, in the right finish, can last you up to 5 years. That

said, it is not uncommon to see paint chipping off or fading in areas of high

usage, exposure to sunlight and traffic sooner than later. Hence, it may need

retouching 3 years or so - lesser for paints in lighter colours.

Wallpaper, on the other hand, will be your long term partner. Experts maintain

that a one-time application will last for around 15 years and beyond.

Wallpaper, however, is not resilient to tearing. Any such mishap will mean that

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you may need to go through the whole process of stripping and pasting all

over again, which is more tedious than re-painting.

3- Expense

Paint is a widely available resource. The skill of labour necessary is relatively less,

along with the effort and time required. All these factors mean that the overall

cost incurred, in each round of paint job will be relatively lower than that of

wallpapering.

Wallpaper is an expensive, but a one-time investment. As it lasts much longer,

it is actually cheaper in the longer run.

4- Area of the House

Your decision to go either ways should also take into account the area of your

home in question. Wallpaper doesn't fare too well in areas with moisture and

heat like Kitchen and Bathroom. Too much heat can affect the life of paint as

well – not in a positive way.

5- Aesthetics

Both paint and wallpaper can be very efficiently used to suit the aesthetic

appeal of your decor. Textured, stencil print or gradient painted walls to

elegant or quirky wallpapers – in any combination, can be used to serve the

purpose of beautification of your decor. Just let your creative juices flow and

find their own way.

6- Option of customization

Even though there are millions of hues and shades of paint for you to choose

from, you can always go for your personalised colour. Get the precise shade

with just the right mix of the feisty orange, soothing blue with a hint of mysterious

grey – if that's what catches your fancy.

Wallpaper is relatively a new entry in India. Though there is a wide variety

available in stores across the country, finding a vendor who would print out

your design/artwork in the wallpaper quality might prove slightly tricky.

7- Variety

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There is no dearth of variety in both the cases. Browse one wallpaper

catalogue after another, until the right pattern in the right colour comes your

way. Wallpapers also come in many different finishes – foil printed, embossed

textures, suede etc.

With paint, your choice may be limited to two finishes - glossy and matte.

However, there is a lot that can be achieved with the myriad of colours and

texturing techniques now widely available.

Paint can only provide a color in a very limited spectrum of finishes from matte

to glossy. Wallpaper, on the other hand, comes in a dazzling array of designs

with an incredible selection of beautiful effects like pearl and glitter, raised inks,

suede, gels, beads, foils, embossed silk textures, and natural grasscloth.

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wallpaper types

Vinyl Wallpapers:

Vinyl Wallpapers are the most widely used

papers on the market, and can be installed in

any room.

Vinyl Wallpapers are generally very easy to

install, easy to remove, and are washable.

Embossed Wallpaper:

The designs are pressed onto a paper backing creating a raised, textured

effect. The embossed textured design tends to hide most wall imperfections.

Therefore, Embossed Wallpapers can be installed over lightly damaged walls.

Embossed Wallpaper can be

installed in any room. Easy to

install, fairly easy to remove.

Embossed Wallpapers are

washable.

Fabric-Backed Vinyl Wallpaper:

They are very durable, and are used in high traffic areas. Backing of

wallpaper is made of weaved woven fabric instead of paper with a plastic

vinyl designed coating on top.This type of wallpaper can be installed over

rough walls. Fabric-Backed Vinyl Wallpapers are perfect for hallways, kids room,

playroom, den, living room, kitchen, bath room, use just about anywhere. Easy

to install, easy to repair, easy to remove in full strips. Fabric Backed Vinyl

Wallpapers are scrub-able.

Borders:

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Designs are printed on a paper back than vinyl coated. Borders come in a

wide variety of designs and widths. They can be installed in combination with

wallpaper or directly on painted surfaces. Wallpaper Borders are used for

many applications such as a chair rail, along ceiling lines, along the

baseboards, around doors, and windows.

Border also adds a finishing touch and a beautiful look in any room. Very easy

to install, removal can be easy to very hard depending on installation. Borders

are generally washable.

Flock Wallpaper:

This wallpaper has a fuzzy velvet like texture and are printed on a paper

backing. The flock designed creates

a three dimensional effect. Take

extra care when pasting and

installing Flock Wallpapers, the

wallpaper paste stains the front

surface and cannot be washed off.

Pasting and installation are tricky.

Because this type of wallpaper is

delicate and not washable choose

the room wisely where it will be

installed. For instance, you would not want to hang this type of wallpaper in a

kitchen or a kids room. Use in a den, bedroom, guest room, living room, or

dining room. Flock Wallpaper can also be installed in half bath or a powder

bathroom with no shower. The old dated Flock Wallpapers remove very hard.

The newer Flock Wallpapers are strippable. Flock Wallpapers are not

washable.

Foil Wallpaper: A polished metal ground is used to create a shiny metallic

wallpape r. A design is printed on top of the metallic

finish. The shiny metallic finish noticeably enhances

all wall imperfections. Therefore, walls must be in

very good condition when installing Foil

Wallpaper.Foil Wallpapers are printed on "three

different backings". The different type of backing will

make a difference on wallpaper installation as well

as wallpaper removal.

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Fabric-Backed Foil Wallpapers:

This type of wallpaper will hide some wall imperfections. The metallic finish

can crease and wrinkle so take extra care when pasting and installing.

Fabric-Backed Foil Wallpapers are very durable after installation.

Foil Wallpapers are mostly used in kitchens and bathrooms. Easy to remove in

full strips. Fabric-Backed Foil Wallpapers are washable.

Fiberglass-Backed Foil Wallpapers:

Are delicate to install. The metallic

finish will crease and wrinkle so take

extra care when pasting and installing.

Walls must be smooth and in good

condition when installing Fiberglass-

Backed Foil Wallpapers. Foil wallpapers

are mostly used in kitchens and

bathrooms. This type of foil wallpaper is

easy to remove in full strips. Fiberglass-

Backed Foil Wallpapers are washable.

Paper-Backed Foil Wallpapers:

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This wallpaper is very delicate to install, and

very hard to remove. A liner wallpaper is

recommended before installing most Paper-

Backed Foil Wallpapers. The metallic finish will

easily crease and wrinkle so take extra care

when pasting and installing. Foil Wallpapers are

mostly used in kitchens and bathrooms. Walls

must be very smooth and in excellent condition

for this type of foil wallpaper. Paper-Backed Foil

Wallpapers are washable.

Liner Wallpapers:

There are many different grades, types and

colors of Liner Wallpaper. Liner Wallpaper is

either paper backed or fiberglass. Liner is

used prior to installing delicate or shiny

wallpapers. Liner Wallpapers can be

installed over rough walls to minimize wall

repair. Very easy to install and easy to

remove.

Moiré Wallpapers:

This type of wallpaper has a vinyl

coating, the designs are applied to

paper or a fabric backing. Moiré

Wallpaper has a very elegant water

silk design or a wood grain effect.

Wallpaper is very easy to install,

seams are hard to find during and

after installation. Moiré Wallpaper is beautiful in an entrance, den, family

room, living room, dining room, master bedroom, guest bedroom or just

about any room. Moiré Wallpaper is easy to remove, and washable.

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Mylar Wallpapers:

This type of wallpaper is printed on a

paper backing. A polyester film is applied

on top of a decorative design making

Mylar Wallpapers washable. This

wallpaper has a wet or shiny

appearance similar to a foil wallpaper.

Mylar Wallpapers easily creases, take

extra care when pasting and installing. A

liner wallpaper is recommended before

installing Mylar Wallpapers. Mylar

wallpaper is mostly used in a kitchen and bathrooms. Walls must be very

smooth and in excellent condition. Wallpaper is fairly easy to remove.

Natural Bamboo Wallpaper:

Natural Bamboo Wallpaper will add a

distinctive look for your house and office.

These handcrafted wallpapers are made

from environmentally friendly natural

products. Natural Bamboo Wallpaper is

made by applying bamboo reeds, or

vines onto a paper backing with glue.

Actual color and texture of wallpaper will

vary slightly from roll to roll. Because

handmade Natural Bamboo Wallpaper

has different variations of color and texture,

they will creat a paneling look on the walls when installed, therefore, seams

will show.

Natural fiber wallpapers are delicate to work with. Take extra care when

pasting and installing Bamboo Wallpaper, the wallpaper adhesive will

definitely, stain the front surface. Natural wallpapers are not washable, this

makes pasting and installation tricky. Natural Bamboo Wallpapers must be

wet to remove, removal is easy to moderate.

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Natural Grass-Cloth Wallpaper: A natural handcrafted wallpaper, made

by applying grasses or vines onto a

paper backing with glue. Natural fiber

wallpapers are delicate to work with.

Take extra care when pasting and

installing Natural Grass-Cloth Wallpaper,

the wallpaper paste will definitely stain

the front surface. Pasting and installation

are tricky. Natural Grass-Cloth Wallpapers are used in dens, family room,

bedrooms, and dining rooms. Wallpapers natural grass has different color

tones creating a panel look on the walls, seams will show. Grass-Cloth

Wallpapers must be wet to remove, removal is easy to moderate. This

wallpaper is not washable.

Vinyl Grass-Cloth Wallpaper:

Machine made to look like natural grass

wallpapers. Vinyl Grass-Cloth

Wallpapersare printed on a fabric backing

which makes this wallpaper very durable.

There are many colors and textures

available. Due to control when printing

colors tend to blend evenly so seams are

less noticeable. Vinyl Grass-Cloth Wallpaper

can be installed in any room due to their durability and wash ability. This type

of wallpaper can be installed over rough walls. Easy to install, easy to repair,

easy to remove in full strips. Vinyl Grass-Cloth Wallpapers are scrub-able.

Natural Silk Wallpaper:

Threads are applied to a paper

backing, creating a light elegant

texture. This type of wallpaper is very

delicate, a liner wallpaper is

recommended. Take extra care when

pasting and installing Natural Silk

Wallpaper, the wallpaper paste stains

the front surface and cannot be

washed off. Pasting and installation

are tricky, wallpaper removal is easy.

Because this type of wallpaper is very delicate choose the room wisely where

it will be installed. Natural Silk Wallpapers are not washable.

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Natural String Wallpaper:

Fibers are applied to a paper backing. Depending

on the string size wallpaper texture can be

moderate to a very heavy texture. A liner

wallpaper is recommended for delicate Natural

String Wallpapers, and is not needed for the heaver

textured string papers.Natural String Wallpapers are

very delicate to work with. Take extra care when pasting and installing

Natural String Wallpaper, the wallpaper paste will definitely stain the front

surface and cannot be washed off. Because this type of wallpaper is not

washable choose the room wisely. Pasting and installation are tricky,

wallpaper removal is easy. Natural String Wallpapers are not washable.

Vinyl String Wallpapers: This type of wallpaper is printed on a fabric

backing, making Vinyl String

Wallpapers very durable. There are

many colors and textures available

with Vinyl String Wallpaper. It can be

installed over textured or rough walls.

Vinyl String Wallpaper can be installed

in any room, even high traffic areas.

Very easy to install, seams are easy to

work and hard to find after installation.

Easy to repair, easy to remove in full

strips. Vinyl String Wallpapers are scrub-able.

Nonwoven Wallpapers:

Made of a special blend of natural and synthetic fibers, Nonwoven

Wallpapers are washable and breathable. A large variety of designs and

patterns are available. You cannot go wrong using Nonwoven Wallpapers.

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The most user friendly wallpapers on the market today, and at the same time

eco-friendly. Nonwoven Wallpapers can be installed in any room, because

they are washable and breathable they are perfect choices for the kitchen

and bathrooms. This type of wallpaper is very easy to install and very easy to

repair. Nonwoven Wallpaper removes totally dry, in full sheets without wall

damage. No wallpaper removal tools or chemicals are needed when

removing this type of wallpaper.

TOOLS YOU WILL NEED TO HANG UNPASTED WALLPAPER:

Paste

Paste Brush or roller

Knife or snap off blade

Level

Sponge & bucket of clean water

Smoothing brush or plastic smoother

Tape Measure

4" - 6" inch Putty knife and or straight edge

A pencil

Step stool

Drop Cloth

GETTING READY TO HANG WALLPAPER

1 - Make sure the walls are clean of all debris and that the surface is smooth.

Spackle and smooth out any holes or rough areas on the walls as they may

affect the final finish of your wallpaper. You should also remove all faceplates

and socket covers before beginning, taking care to turn off power first for

safety.

2 - When deciding where to begin, if hanging wallpaper on all four (4) walls

you ideally want to start in the most inconspicuous corner of the room. Some

examples of an ideal place to start would be in the back corner of the room,

behind a door or a large piece of furniture.

3 - The most crucial step in hanging wallpaper is making sure the first strip is

straight and level. This will impact the rest of the room so it is important to take

your time and do this first step correctly.

4 - Measure out from the corner the width of the paper minus 1/2 inch and

mark with a pencil.

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5 - Place a level at the mark and draw a straight, vertical line (plumb line).

6 - Every time you reach a corner or start a new wall, follow this procedure to

make sure you are hanging the wallpaper straight.

HOW TO HANG UN-PASTED WALLPAPER

1. If you need to mix the paste first, follow the manufacturer’s instructions

_ Use your brush to apply paste to the wall, evenly distributing it across an

area just larger than one (1) strip at a time

If you are using unpasted wallpaper that requires applying the paste directly

to the backing:

1. If you need to mix the paste first, follow the manufacturer’s instructions

2. Lay the strip of wallpaper face down on your work surface

3. Brush paste on to the top half of your paper and gently fold that

sectionback to meet the middle. Brush paste on the remaining half and fold

the bottom end in to meet the middle.

4. Allow the paper to rest in this "booked" position for 10 minutes while the glue

becomes fully activated and the paper is prepared.

HANGING YOUR FIRST STRIP OF WALLPAPER

1- Start on the least conspicuous wall of the room, where you have previously

used a level to draw your plumb line.

2 - Unfold the top half of the strip and apply to the wall, letting a little bit of

the wallpaper overlap the ceiling and adjoining wall. Make sure your pattern

is right side up!

3 - Slide the paper into position so it lines up on the plumb line that you

created.

4 - Using a wallpaper smoothing tool, gently press the strip to the wall. Be

careful not to stretch the wallpaper while positioning.

5 - Unfold the bottom half and smooth into place.

6 - Smooth the entire strip, working diagonally from the top down and from

the center outward, forcing out any air pockets.

7 - Wash off excess paste with a damp sponge and clean water. Remember

always to use clean water.

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TRIM WALLPAPER

1 - Using the 6" putty knife as a guide, trim the excess paper along the ceiling

and baseboard with a sharp razor knife. Always use a sharp knife or blade for

every cut and do not to lift your knife when making long cuts.

2 - Wash paste off ceiling and baseboards with a wet sponge and clean

water.

3 - Using the same procedures to cut and apply more wallpaper strips,

matching the pattern to the previous strip.

4 - Touch the edges tightly together, but don’t overlap the strips.

5 - Make a new plumb line on each new wall.

Remove Old Wallpaper:

If you have a previously papered surface, you should strip the wallpaper. This

may even be essential depending on what kind of wallpaper you currently

have and how you want to refinish the walls.

Even so, there are some conditions under which you may decide not to

remove existing wallpaper. You can safely paper over a single layer of

smooth, well-adhered wallpaper if it is free of bubbles, buckles and wrinkles.

You will need to do some prep work, including re-pasting any loose paper,

patching as necessary, cleaning the walls and applying a special primer.

In any case, installation over existing paper is certainly not recommended if:

-You suspect there may be more than a single layer of wallpaper on the

surface.

-The existing wallpaper has a vinyl, foil or plastic film. In this case, the

wallpaper should be removed even if there is only one layer in good

condition. Wallpaper adhesive will not adhere well to these surfaces.

-You are planning to hang vinyl wallpaper. If the previous wallpaper is also

vinyl, the glue between the two papers will not dry well. If the old wallpaper is

not vinyl, the glue under it may get wet and start to mildew.

-The existing wallpaper is grass cloth, burlap or cork.

-You can hear crinkling sounds when running your hand over the surface of

the wall. If you do, the wallpaper has buckled and it needs to be removed.

-If there are tears in the wallpaper at the corners of the walls. When walls

settle, wallpaper sometimes tears in a corner.

If you are planning to paint, you must remove the wallpaper. Paint will seal

the surface and make the wallpaper almost impossible to remove in the

future. In addition, the painted surface will not look as smooth as it could and

your efforts will be wasted.

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Identify Your Wall Type

It's important to know what kind of walls you have before you begin. The age

of the wall usually determines whether it's drywall or plaster.

Plaster

It's found mostly in homes that are more than 50 years old. In plaster walls,

wood lath is nailed to wood-framed walls and covered with two or three

coats of plaster. These walls are more solid and sound dull if you knock on

them.

Drywall

It's been used in homes for the past 50 years or so. Drywall is a sheet of chalk-

like substance covered with a lightweight cardboard. These sheets are nailed

over wood-framed walls and have a hollow sound when you knock on them.

Drywall is more delicate than plaster, so be careful not to damage the

cardboard facing when using a wallpaper scraping tool.

A Little Prep Work

Before you start to work, you will need to prepare your room. Follow these

steps:

Step 1

Take everything off the walls.

Step 2

Remove decorative objects and knick knacks.

Step 3

Remove as much furniture as possible. Cover what is left.

Step 4

Place old towels along the baseboards. Spread plastic dropcloths over the

towels and tape them to the baseboards. This step will prevent messy scraps

from getting on your floors.

Step 5

Allow a full day for removing paper from an average-sized room.

If you are removing strippable wallpaper and the paper surface of your

drywall comes up too, stop immediately. When this happens, it generally

means that the drywall was not sealed with enough paint. Glue down any

loose pieces and seams that have separated. Fill in uneven areas with non-

shrinking spackling compound. Sand your repairs and apply an oil-based

sealer with an enamel undercoat.

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To Remove Strippable Wallpaper

Newer wallpapers are strippable, which means they can easily be removed

without water or chemicals. If you know the wallpaper you are trying to

remove was hung in recent years, you may be in luck.

Step 1

At a corner or seam near the bottom of the wall, use a putty knife to pry the

edge of the wallcovering. If it pulls away easily and keeps coming up as you

pull, you have strippable wallpaper and your job should be easy.

Step 2

To remove the paper, simply grab the lower corner of a strip and pull it away

until both corners of the strip are free. Then hold the bottom edge with both

hands and pull until the whole strip is off the wall. Repeat all the way around

the room.

Step 3

If the paper is stubborn, you can help it along by using a razor knife. Hold the

knife perpendicular to the wall and make a series of horizontal strips about 10

inches apart. Then loosen the section of paper and pull it free with your

fingers.

Stripping Wallpaper with Water

For this job, you need a liquid stripper concentrate. Mix with hot water

according to the manufacturer's directions. Apply the mixture to your walls

with a broad brush or a sprayer. Work from top to bottom a section at a time.

Do not try to tackle such a large area that the paper dries before you have a

chance to remove it.

Let the paper soak for a few minutes; then start stripping it away with a

scraper.

Sometimes, you will find old paper that just will not absorb water. When this

happens, scuff the surface with coarse sandpaper or a scoring tool to allow

the water to soak into the paper. Once it is thoroughly soaked, apply the

wetting agent twice more and let it soak for 30 minutes. You will know it is

ready when you can scrape off pieces with your fingernail.

To Remove Peelable Wallpaper

Some wallpapers are peelable, which means that they have a top coat

which comes off just like strippable paper. Once you have peeled off the top

vinyl coat, you will have the backing left. Follow directions for stripping with

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water to remove the backing. Do not leave the backing on, even if it is in

good condition.

To Remove Washable Wallpaper

The surface that makes washable wallpaper easy to clean also makes it a

little harder to remove. You must break through the plastic film that covers the

paper in order for water to penetrate the paper. Use a scoring tool to create

holes in the wallpaper. Use a spray bottle to soak the paper. Spray water into

the slits so it can work its way behind the covering. Wait about 10 minutes and

then scrape off the paper with a putty knife.

Steam Removal

The last resort for removing wallpaper is to steam-strip. This job is strenuous

because you must steam and strip at the same time. You might want to ask a

friend for help.

A steamer uses boiling water to soften the glue between the wallpaper and

the wall. If you are removing vinyl-coated wallpaper with a steamer, you still

have to use a scoring tool to punch holes in the paper so the steam can

reach the glue.

Rent a steamer instead of purchasing one, since this is not a job you will do

very often. Carefully read the manufacturer's directions, as they may vary

from machine to machine. Basically, the process works this way:

-Make sure the power is off.

-Pour warm water into the reservoir.

-Turn on the machine and wait for the water to boil.

-With your goggles and gloves on, place the stripper's steam pad firmly on the

wallpaper for about 30 seconds. Move the pad and you should see loose

paper. Remove the paper with a scraper.

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